The Best Guide on How to Delete Your AIV on a 1990-1996 Nissan 300zx (Episode 4)
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- čas přidán 14. 05. 2020
- You guys asked so I delivered. To keep things simple we are deleting the AIV system on a 1990-1996 Nissan 300zx. The z32 has an immense amount of piping and modules for this system. In this tutorial, I show the in's and out's on how to delete this. You may need to be creative on some of the aspects but it is pretty simple to delete and cap off the components needed. Enjoy!
Disclaimer: You will also need to cap the throttle bodies and little nipples on the intake piping/ acrodian pipes
Parts Used:
- Rubber caps
- Grey RTV
- 1 1/4 PVC Cap
- Misc. Bolts for welding in tubes - Auta a dopravní prostředky
EVERYTIME I SEE THESE CLIPS OF GUYS WHO HAVE TORN THESE Z CARS APART I UNDERSTAND WHY PEOPLE ASK IS THE CAR IN STOCK CONDITION . BECAUSE THERE IS NO WAY THE PUT THOSE CARS WITH ALL THOSE PIECES BACK THE WAY THEY SHOULD BE. ADDING A MOD OR TWO IS ONE THING BUT THIS IS SOMETHING ELSE . I HAVE TO ADMIRE ANYONE WHO CAN RETAIN ALL IT TAKES TO DO ALL THIS .MY Z IS 26 YEARS OLD IN STOCK CONDITION AND STILL A FORCE TO BE RECKONED WITH AND I DO ALL THE WORK MYSELF. SO I COMMEND YOU GUYS FOR BEING SO GUTSY AND I LOOK FORWARD TO THE FINISH PRODUCT YOU A REAL Z CAR LOVER.
CANT STRESS HOW MUCH YOUR HELPING ME. LITERALLY WAIT TIL THE NEXT UPLOAD SO I CAN LEARN SOMETHING NEW.
Love it!
Appreciate your videos most mechanics wont even touch a 300. But there actually a great car to work on now days
I did this AIV delete today, 11/21/2020. The video was a great help. One issue I had on the passenger side was that under the fender in front of the tire, one module you said was part of the AIV system was actually part of the wiper washer system. Found that out when I cut one of the supposed vacuum lines and it leaked water. Then traced the line, which I should have done before cutting. My 300zx is 1990. Maybe different year that the one you showed. My error anyway but I fixed my mistake. The delete worked out great!
I did relocate my motor for easier access, but I'm glad it helped!
And then you do it again... I removed mine 2 weeks ago but couldn't get the bit in the fender out - Now I know. Thanks mate.
No problem!!
Great video bro these delete videos are good stuff keep them coming I’m trying to delete everything I possible can on the vg30dett going for a ticked engine bay.
Love it keep the motivation going!
I appreciate the details man. Been learning lots here
Love it, thank you for the support!
Super satisfying video., awesome work.
Thank you for the support!!
very good walkthrough video.
Hey man great video as usual.. I’m no spring chicken(50) but I LOVE my 1991 Z and the Z community.. was looking to do this after installing my cold air intake.. found out that a colony of mice built themselves and nice city in the old stock air system.. anyway thanks ands keep them excellent videos coming.
Rob Coz
Thank you and good luck with your build!!!
AYYEE!!! Love it my g! Keep up the good work brother!
Thanks brother covid needs to be done already so we can hang at the track
@@ZBruhzchannel AGREEEDD Im over this hahah i wanna get out so bad!!!!!!
Hell yeah man, I also have a 92 2+0 but it’s tt lol bought it rodknock so It’s getting a built bottom end ,Thanks for supplying z content lol
No problem and good luck with the build!!
Hell yeah man! I’m actually looking at doing This same thing this weekend! Great minds ;)
Ayyyye!
This channel should be called the Z guru 😁💪🙌
Love it hahaha
Great video. Just what I was looking for.
I have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L with a similar oil pump. It was an elderly couple's for 20 years. I don't think they used it much. Low miles, 6,000 a year average, and likely wasn't driven hard ever. I think they let oil sit in it and maybe their mechanic put snake oil in it as a sales pitch. There was gummy honey-colored stuff on the refill cap.
Something is causing this Pathfinder to knock at startup for 3-4 seconds and then between 1,800 and 3,300 RPM. If coasting between 1800 and 3300, it ceases. I think I caught rod bearing wear early and I replaced them. And checked the mains. Mains were good. Two rods had mild wear. No slack or slope in anything. Metal flakes stopped appearing. But still the knock between those RPM. It runs perfectly, otherwise. And the body and interior is like new. So it's a nice one I'd like to keep long-term.
What do you think about this idea?
If the oil isn't changed well can the valve system in the pump stick or malfunction and cause oil pressure to be insufficient? The pressure is 100% consistently poor at startup for 3 seconds and under load between 1800 to 3300 RPM. Makes no sense, this loss of pressure at fixed time, other than faulty pump.
I know there is also a pan gasket leak at the front and back. I thinned the oil as an experiment to see if pressure/noise changed and oil began quickly dripping from both ends of the oil pan when it was at warm idle. I thinned the oil 50% with motor flush, which is basically kerosene. I drained out two quarts and put in 2 quarts cleaner. So I have to pull the pan anyways to fix those leaks, so might as well pull inspect and replace the pump as well. Also have to check timing as well and swap all those parts as their age is unknown. The pressure problem was present before the leaks were noted. So the big leaks are new and the problem is the exact same.
Do you know of a good oil pump replacement video of my motor or very similar? I found a timing kit one, but no oil pump.
I would try to find an oem oil pump replacement. Check local dealerships or rock auto!
Thanks!!!
Another awesome video Z-bro. You shaved about a hundred pounds 😂
Seriously lol
Love the step by step video, but did you remove the front passenger side windshield washer pump too?
I did not, some certain years have the res in the hatch of the car. On this 1992 that's where it is located.
@@ZBruhzchannel I have a 1992 as well and one of them hoses leads up to the Y connector the connects to the passenger side windshield washer spray nozzle. The other hose went into the passenger fender, I'm not sure where it ends yet because I haven't pulled the fender off. I checked it out on CZP and it looks like you actually deleted the windshield washer fluid motor pump. Here's the link to the part: conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-300zx-windshield-washer-fluid-motor-pump-front-z32-28920-31p00_p_6733.php
I could be wrong though.
Some of that secondary duct work is for cooling the front brakes. Not a huge deal. Someone said it beforehand, but since this is a newer comment, that's also the washer pump stuff you deleted on the right side.
Awesome thanks, and yea we Relocated the pump to an easier access point and to keep away from corrosion
Can you just cap off the aiv at the exhaust leaving everything installed Japan is strict about their inspections so I would like to be able to kick the test pipe out and install the oem stuff quick
I don't know how Japan is with emissions, I just did this so the car can run cleaner and massachusetts doesn't not need to pass emissions since the car is 30 years old
Any electrical connections that need to be plugged or just leave them unplugged and tucked away? Don’t want to throw codes but don’t want all this extra crap in the bay blocking anything (I.e the egr solenoid on the passenger side)
Unplugged and tucked away, no codes here!
The AIV unit Is only on the 90-92 models I believe, Im going through my 95 Z now and doing all the deletes while I have it apart because the knock sensor whent bad.
Good luck!
👍
once you delete something like the AIV system does it need a replacement or is it just junk straight from the factory?
No need for replacement, trash it make sure your idle is set properly and move on
5:20
Isnt that the washer pump/motor for the windshield
Yep, I relocated it to an easier access point if I need to swap it out
Are you certain the PVC Cap used was 1.25" and not 1.75" or maybe even 2"? Preparing to purchase, took measurement because that sounded small, and measured 1.75" circumference...
1 1/4 inch caps
I shaved down the edges to have the caps be pressed on
Can i do this to my twin turbo?
YES!
Do I need to retune the 300zx after a AIV, EGR delete?
No you will just need to adjust idle properly
Is this the same for the TT model?
This, I believe would be the same for the tt. I would double check on twin turbo .net
Is a EGR required first before doing a AIV or can one dive into the AIV before doing a EGR?
As long as everything is plugged off correctly you should be okay, but from my experience I have done the deletes at the same time. Takes and extra 10 mins.
@@ZBruhzchannel awesome good to know and thanks for the fast reply. Your videos is a huge help for my Desert rescued Z (Been sitting for 10 whole years.)
@@e102em no problem and glad to help!
What wheels do you have
Work eurolines
@@ZBruhzchannel cool thanks
👋👍
Hey does the delete help with anything or is it cosmetic?
It takes a ton of weight off and also aloows the engine to breathe better. This is an emission compononent that is not needed.
@@ZBruhzchannel enuff said. I will do mine tommorrow. You got one for her delete while the engine is in the car?
Egr
Egr delete with engine in pain in the ass to do it! I just did mine just want to want I need to do with egr plug??
Just fyi you pulled the windshield washer motor as you thought it was part of aiv system.
Dude you deleted your washer fluid lines, those were the two Lines on the passenger fender well and the solenoid.
I relocated them so they will not be under the fender liner
Oh sweet, show us in an update vid. I’d love to relocate mine too but idk where I’d put it lol.
@@jaredlopez3531 will do!
Do do you delete your air box???
Yes but the Airbox was deleted before this video
@@ZBruhzchannel what about the maf sensor ??
@@ZBruhzchannel and can’t I just keep the piping on remove the aivs and solenoid , and just cap the vacuum lines leave the piping on the car as in the intake piping that’s for the aiv?
First
Can a get a aaahhhhyeeaahhh