Truck project update: Brake Time! Assembling drum brakes on our 1950 Chevy 3600 | Redline Update #33
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- čas přidán 1. 03. 2020
- In this episode, Davin assembles the front and rear brakes on our 1950 Chevy Pickup which means we are one step closer to making this project a rolling chassis! Instead of waiting on parts Davin was able to reuse all the original parts for the brake assembly and sent the old brake shoes out to be refaced. During the assembly process Davin has a small curveball, but nothing a custom tool cant fix!
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If this was on MotorTrend it would be littered with "our buddies at Wilwood sent us new disc brakes...our buddies at CPP sent us a suspension kit...our buddies at QA1 sent us shocks".
Hats off to Hagerty and Davin for showing us how a real restoration is done.
True, those shows are little more than infomercials these days.
While that's true and I agree. Alot of people actually want to drive and enjoy thier vehicles. All those old brakes and suspensions were fine when every car had that. But even the cheapest new car can stop faster than the best of the old stuff. Its actually pretty terrify to drive an old unmodified restored to original car in today's traffic. Try it it's not fun. That's why everyone upgrades
@@leokarasinski4217 It's not that bad if you're driving defensively. My 65 F100 has four wheel unassisted drum brakes and 7 turns lock to lock in the manual steering. The thing stops just fine. I'm not running it on the Nurburgring.
Of course I do commute by bicycle, so maybe my legs are a little stronger for the clutch and brake pedals. :)
@@SvenDansk7 its doable. But I've driven my fair share of older cars. They dont stop like modern cars and most of them handle terribly. You can do it. But a few upgrades isnt going to kill the value of the car. I'm not saying go nuts with aftermarket parts but some upgraded brakes and steering/suspension components arent a bad idea
@@leokarasinski4217 Could be nice. Not strictly necessary. I think the limit of safety is a few decades earlier. You wouldn't find me trying to drive a Model T on the freeway, but I'm told a Model A with a 5 speed swap can cruise at an acceptable clip.
I restored a 1958 Chevy 3/4 ton Apache custom, when. I got to the kingpins, they were toast so I went to a aircraft hardware manufacturer in Ventura and had him machine two kingpins out of Titanium along with two stainless steel upper and lower bushings with grease passages and zerk fittings to grease them with, man was that sweet..
As my Dad's construction business expanded he bought a Chevy pickup every year from '48 thru '55. All dark green 1/2 tons except for the '53 which was a 3/4 ton, the '54 which was light green and the '55 which was a white and red "Cameo" style. It was quite a fleet of 7 with his only odd duck being a '52 Studebaker 2 ton. I grew up riding all around Los Angeles to various construction sites in one Chevy or another. The last Chevy he bought was a '62. I still have it.
My grandfather in San Leandro pest control and remodeling business own 50s trucks , when the employees retired they got the truck ..
Instablaster
It's always like this. You think you can do a job right quick fast in a hurry, but then you run into more and more problems.
The story of my life.
That's what owning an old car is all about. The challenges, and the victories.
Sometimes you have to improvise and just make things work. Thanks for showing us it's not all easy.👍
Davin is a humble man, improvise (clips) to make the brakes work 👍. I like the truck project a vehicle to enjoy driving around town.
He done them wrong they do still sell the original clips and the small clips with the springs on them he put on backwards I wouldnt want him working on my truck..
You gotta love Michigan where you can still find a good machine shop and still have your brake shoes relined. Oh for the days of paradise when life was simple...Jack
Davin, Thank you for going into the suspension! Looking forward to more.
David & Ben - Always informative AND enjoyable......a long time subscriber.
Ahh! The heat wrench, rust and corrosion's nemesis!!🙂
The hot blue wrench! Can't be tight if it's melted.
I like the way he modified the C-Clamp Vise Grips compress spring
Wow great background music this time
iknow right! its alooot better!
I love it when the flame wrench comes out. And I remember the acrid bouquet of scorched bushing rubber well. Brings back oddly pleasant memories and thankfully, not the headache that went with it.
Glad to see this posted. I ran into the same problem with those clips on my ‘49 a few months ago and wished I would have come up with that. I see why they don’t make them any longer. Seem like a one-time-use kind of piece.
They do sell them yet at chevys of the 40s.and the small pin with the spring he put on backwards.and his clips on the big pins will pop off the original clips wont pop off..
You're damn right about being creative with parts. My old Volvo has a bunch of nuts, bolts, clips, etc from the local hardware store. OEM is no longer existent, used in bad shape or too expensive to buy.
I just wanna say the last eight years have been overwhelming trying to finish my dads legacy hot rod and u have really helped me and i aporeciate the keep it real quality and over all clear and step by step lessons...hands down some of the best instruction with awesome personality. Thank u from bottom of my chevy love.
I have a 1954 chevy 3600 series stovebolt with all the upgrades just needs the battery and a break in now
Can’t wait for more
The said clips you can not get are sold by either Jim Carter Truck Parts, or Classic Chevrolet Parts.
Loving these comprehensive videos, keep up the awesome work guys 👍👍👌👌
I have a 37 Chev half ton. I completely rebuilt the brakes, shackles and kingpins. Now I'm Changing directions. I'm putting a Fat Man Fabs MII front end on and probably his 4 link as well. All those parts are going to be available. I de-rusted everything and painted with IMRON and reassembled the leafs with grease. The shackles are the threaded pin variety with tapered ends and clamped.
THEY DOO MAKE THOSE KEEPERS NEW. COMES IN EVERY BRAKE KIT FROM KANTER OR OTHER SOURCES. BOOM!
He done them pins and clips all wrong like you said they sell them all yet
Loved the video, cheers!
This is Awesome! I'm doing mine right now on my 51!!
Great series on the Chevy.
Since you're doing original drum brakes, I thought I would toss out a tip about new brake shoes that are on the market.
Most suppliers are selling brake shoes with very "hard" lining, which can create a very solid pedal but, very low friction between the lining and drum surface (which reduces the braking power) and an even scarier problem, ..the linings can very quickly overheat, rendering them incapable of stopping the car.. it's happened.
The best rebuilt brake shoes I've found are available at Napa auto parts, ..and are the "least"expensive shoes that Napa sells. Keep up the great work.
I'm looking forward to seeing this truck this summer around TC. Maybe Monday night at Culvers or Tuesday night in Lake Ann.
I remember the first time I took apart drum brakes and how much of a puzzle it was putting them back together, good times.
First lesson I learned with drum brakes:
Do one side start to finish before even touching the other, that way you always have a reference. It was very good advice.
@@daveb7663 Now everything I take apart a quick cellphone photo wish I had that 30 years before
Redline updates are the best!
Thanks very much for the video !! Very helpful
Grew up with drum brakes, so very simple to work on, anyone can do it, my Grandfather taught me how to do them when I was 8 on A Ford 8N tractor..whole family was Ford owners until 1975, when Ford's quality went to to zero, then we started by GM trucks and never looked back, GM trucks had WAY less problems overall..
Just great! Another "not available in stores...only through this special TV offer tool! LOL Used once every 40,000 miles but I now have it!
Great project and video. I usually check (as you've done I'm sure) the drums for thermal cracks, bad groves (from old riveted shoes) along with circular trueness and machine the drums true if possible or replace if needed. Keep up the good work.
Great job....
I have a 57 Chevy 6400 series 2 ton with the rare 12 foot LONG HORN bed so I know how it is to find little surprises when you think it's going to be a simple replace. Lots of luck with your project and yep I am a fan of LMC.
I would have used my 20V grinder with a cutoff blade, to avoid the stench of burnt rubber that was not tire rubber. LOL But I have done it that way many times too. Oh, instead of using 15 mm E-clips, I have used a thin washer and safety wire, in a pinch. But E or C-clips are better.
"The catalog doesn't show my part" I found this to be very true in my recent rebuilding of the steering column of a 1967 El Camino. It is a 3 car/2 year only column that is a far departure from the columns before and after. Outside the box later and the column is safe and fully functional.
That's going to be a choice shop pick up 👍👍
Guess the only thing you didn't address was it has a ajuster on both sides of the "wheel cylinder" so both have to be adjusted, its normal for the back half to wear faster than the front half of this type system. When buying shoes in store the short shoe goes in front of the set ie front/back on each wheel. People have to be told every step or they point fingers and make fools of themselves. Nice touch on the universal vice clamps. Never seen that one coming
I believe the spring was supposed to go on the back side of the brake pad not the side with the horseshoe clip.
Love the in depth vids. These are great
I used to have to weld up the old backing plates and then hand machine then old brakes are sometimes fun to work on!
Chavs of the 40's will have all that
I'm doing the same thing on my 1950 Chevy 1 ton long bed truck. Its pretty cool. Great Series
Nice done. Cheers guys
Davin's advice for getting parts for old cars is exactly right. The local parts store will often not have what you need. I work at an auto parts store, so I know. Although, you may be surprised. If the same part was in production for a very long time, often we will have it. Also, wear parts (by new-ish car standards) for the more popular models, especially pickups and sports cars, even back to the early 60's may be in stock and even more for next day delivery.
Word of advice for going to the parts store: have a year, make and model and/or a part number. DO NOT come in and say "I need a thingamajigger for a small block 350" If we are in a good mood, your response will be "I am sorry, but I need a year, make, and model for my computer system." If the salesclerk is in bad mood you will be slapped in the face. BTW there is a special place in hell reserved for the people who counter respond to the former with, "Awwww, it's just a chevy 350, it doesn't matter" IT MATTERS.
If you're having a hard time finding a part, arrive before 5:00 pm. Before 4:00 is better. Only the managers make enough money to raise a family, so they are often the only ones with more than 2years experience. Managers make the schedule, so they get the best hours, and they tend to have families they want to spend time with. Also, the store tends to get busier and busier as the day goes on, so arrive as early as you can. This also gives us the most time to get a part to you by the end of the day, although this perk will depend on how remote the area is.
Please be nice, especially to the greenhorns. While they have the least knowledge, they also have to constantly deal with customers who want to speak to manager, even though the greenhorn is usually correct, or is dealing with the edgiest of edge cases (you). The learning curve is very steep, even for car guys. Also, the length we will go to get you what you want is closely related to your manners and fairness. Firmness is fine, but hostility will never get you the second mile from us. Also, there are a bazillion different names for car parts, no one has heard or understands them all. If we don't know what you mean, walk us through what the part does. Our catalog is designed to let us find parts we do not know the name to. DO NOT say "It's just a ____. How can you not know what a ____ is?" I personally heard a man say "huv", when he was mispronouncing what I believe was "hub", but the part was in fact a spindle/axle nut.
Lastly, please, don't send your girlfriend (or other non-car guy, non owner/driver of car) to get you a part. There are often many questions that we MUST know to get you the right part. If getting the part yourself is impossible, at least call ahead of time and sort things out first, but also tell us who is coming to pick up your stuff. On a related note, do not call us and speak through your wife/girlfriend. To constantly hear the guy in the background relay through all the answers is the most irritating part of the job, more than Small Block man, I Can Get IT Cheaper Here man, or Cost/Availability Disbelief man.
Edit: Yes, inflation is a thing, and there is a reason our parts cost 3x more than the cheapest thing you can find on the internet. And, thanks for reading my rant. I feel much better now, for whatever that's worth.
What a smart dude!!!!
Thanks. I really enjoy your videos.
"Modern" as term is not often used when talking about 60's vehicles :D. But I guess it's all relative.
Well, considering that Self Adjusting Drum Brakes were common from the 1960's through, well... NOW; I'd say they're Modern. Many vehicles are 4-wheel Disc now, and they have Anti-Lock Sensors etc... But, there is still a tiny drum brake, on the rear disc, which is the Parking Brake/Emergency Brake.
I had a 1979 Mazda with drum brakes you had to adjust. Good times.
@@Oddman1980 Well, that's a Mazda. Go figure, right?
@@Kickinpony66 Right? The silly thing didn't even have valves or a camshaft.
@@Oddman1980 Ahh, a Wankel engine! So, it was an RX-7?
I would have pulled off the backing plate on those drum brakes and sandblasted it too.
Ode du rubber is a common smell in midwest brake and muffler shops because of the salt on the roads in winter where nut and bolts weld themselves together with ferrous oxide. You can try penetrating oil but the gas ax makes it so much easier.
I love your work
I checked and NAPA still sells the Brake Service Kit and the 8PC brake tool set either of them would have made his day a lot less of a pain. I was sure they still had them but I haven't checked in 20 years so I had to look
i had a 50 mold GMC i loved it put a corvette 327 4 speed 9.11 rears hydraulic clutch it was sweet man kept the body original, Beef up the suspension put leather bucket seats Sold it to may friend ,he made it back into a grandpa truck sold all the parts grrrr i was going to use them in a 68 Chevelle SS
I'm going to guess the diameter for the big pivot pin is 19/32" (.59375"). 15mm comes to .59055"; so yes, a very good fit for the E-Clip! I've not seen this type of wheel cylinder before this video. I was expecting to see Concentric Adjusters and a wheel cylinder with different size bores. Very cool.
Great vid guys.
Nicely done
Love this channel
you are good man onestly
Im respect you and all your exact work man
I like the way you you done the work
Im follow you from other side of planet 🙂
keep on man
Dont follow him he done it all wrong they do sell the clips he needed at chevys of the 40s and he put the small clips with the spring on backwards.poor mechanic...
Nice Work
I like the Info for the rear and front Breaks as I have a 49 1 ton ,and very hard to find info, on how to replace and repair Parts Can not find Books on that year and Tonnage..
То чувство когда не понимаешь что автор говорит, но прекрасно понимаешь что делает и наслаждаешься подходом к работе 👍 по мне отличный канал
Hell yeah!
Excellent...
Sir, I like your way 👌👌when you fitting a Steady Post🔧🔧...
Cracks me up that Americans call inches “standard” measurement.
good work
3 pedals, no problem.
I like it 👍
the older among us still have the proper tools for doing brake jobs on drum brakes . the tool he was forced to make is or was a common shop tool used to compress the different springs and clip's and without it the job is a royal pain in the ass . all the parts of drum brakes had there own tools that if you check around older garages you may find a old man to sell you a complete set . if your going to work on vintage cars and trucks it wouldn't hurt to have a set . I would send you mine but I'm still using them. you can check NAPA the last I knew they still had most of them in stock.
The good old brake spoons, and brake pliers!!🤪
Hey there!
Just a random fan of yours. I would love to see you guys rebuilding "DETROIT DIESEL 8V92" engine. Its a request!
Love your videos, love your work. Absolutely fantastic work you guys doing there. Always been a dream to work in such an environment. Best of luck
It’s interesting that there doesn’t appear to be a leading and trailing shoe🤔 normally the friction material on the shoe closet to the front of the vehicle is shorter at the bottom and visa versa for the rear shoe.
Cada vídeo es impresionante 👏👏👏👏👏
7:20 ENGAGE SAFETY SQUINTS
Waiting
Good video.
Though it doesnt apply to the year i own. its informative !
I have a 1955 GMC and upon removing the drum i noticed it doesnt have self adjusters which sort of confused me because i thought thats weird. But i guess for these older trucks they required manual adjustment every so often. some what annoying but i guess a truck from the 50's you can't complain.
I am considering getting a conversion kit or some way to get self adjusters in there because it would drive me nuts having to go under the truck every time it feels like my brakes arent getting the best peddle feel to adjust it. Thankfully though im in the process of upgrading to a dual master cyl aswell as disk brakes up front. So im sure it wont be too much of a hindrance.
DAMN you're a STUD
Nice T-Shirt...:P
Some sand blasting on the brakes duster plate and paint will b great too
Looked a lot like my 48 thriftmaster brakes.
Three pedals, no problem... cya!
Big like))
I would try out nut breaker or bolt cutter instead.
LMC is my best friend 😁
Dont use lubricant of any type on drum brakes. Bad for linings when it melts out and it attracts brake dust and road grime.
Those brakes are exactly the same as early 48-62 Holdens here in Oz.
I want that shirt!
Have the same year truck , can't find the shoe spreader, or park brake cable lever anywhere
I'm sure it quite difficult to get your large camera in there but would have liked to see the rear brakes all assembled with the e-brake cable etc. and explaining how they are adjusted??
Also, a little surprised you don't do a little more painting. Backing plates/differential as a example. ;o) Just a "observation".
I'm thinking that they're going for a certain look with this truck. The patina craze is usually only skin deep on most cars and trucks. They all have modern drivelines, wilwood brakes, and LS powertrains. That's all fine and good, but a well worn look with all the basics refreshed is cool too, as long as it all works well.
How long would those c clips last in wet, salty weather?
👌
I’ve always hated working on drum brakes always a hassle always and if the car has got drums on the front doesn’t matter how many times I just the clearances the steering pulls......
And if you get it right adjustment never seems to last as long specially on the front
Show off!
Admiro muito o profissionalismo e dedicação com os antigos, infelizmente aqui no Brasil não temos tanta acessibilidade a ferramentas e peças com bom preço sou mecânico e infelizmente trabalhamos um ano todo juntando dinheiro pra comprar um simples elevador ou uma máquina de solda mig, fica apenas o sentimento de insatisfação em ver a falta de planejamento social de nossa nação
6:38 It always bothers me for some reason when I see competent professionals do the same thing I would have tried to solve a problem.
Mmm fire..
Can't stick if it's liquid!
Hola !! donde consiguió los cilindros de freno?
saludos desde chile
👍👍👍
Hello. Are the rear brakes 14" x 2 1/2" with 8 lugs? If so where were they purchased please?
Санкт-Петербург 😊
عمل رائع
What camera do you guys use other than the GoPro
1948 Chevy 1/2 Ton, short bed, pickup.
I'm puzzled why I just can't get the emergency brake to hold. I've replaced the emergency cables on both sides. Ensured that the cables were adjusted according to 1948-1954 Chevrolet Shop Truck Manual (step by step.) I've even reinstalled one of the old cables and still no luck. Looking at your display of the rear brake parts mine conforms to your configuration. I've even physically viewed and video the movement of the lever, so I'm positive the cable is pulling the lever. The new cables were purchased from Classic Part. Any ideas?
Not generally a good idea to use an oxy/acetylene torch on a shock. Even if you - as a mechanic - know how to avoid causing the oil inside to boil and come out under high pressure, it gives the general uneducated public the idea that it is perfectly OK to use a torch on any part of them, including the oil reservoir of the shock. If you have to cut them off, use a cut off wheel to cut the bolts or the shaft. If the only tool you have is the torch, drill the bottom of the shock and drain out the oil before torching them off.