Putting the fuel tank back in our 1950 Chevy truck | Redline Update #37
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- čas přidán 27. 04. 2020
- Davin spent lots of hours rebuilding the 216ci straight-six for the 1950 Chevrolet 3600 pickup, but the fact of the matter is that without a fuel system that engine would just be a pretty hunk of metal sitting in the chassis. That is why on the latest Redline Update he dives into getting the chassis set up to feed the engine its necessary fuel.
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I have a 54 3800 1 ton, 17" split rims wheels, 9' bed 235. It was purchased new by my grandfather. Just finished rebuilding the engine. .080 over with three new sleeves, .010 over on the crank. New valve seats fixed the small cracks in the head. All new valve train. HEI distributor. It runs really strong. Has been in continuous use for 66 years. It's beat up but very little rust. 115,000 miles.
Hagerty!!!!! Way to be!!! Good seeing you once again 💪
Getting closer to the road. It's always interesting to see how many details there are to rebuilding any kind of vehicle. Thanks for the update.
Its amazing that "early" electronic system of fuel level, still works after 70 years!!!
Electric, not electronic. 😉
They don't make'em like that anymore.
Gotta love solid state
I went back and watched you taking the fuel sending unit apart about three times. That's good to know that it can be taken apart to repair if possible. 😊 Thanks!
Yeah I did the same this this guy is good.
I really feel so happy when I found a new video in Hagerty i check this channel every single day 😍❤
Love you Davin and Tom Cotter, keep up the good work
I sure enjoy the way you are restoring this truck ,Not making the paint pristine ,Making it mechanically correct ,Then driving it to have fun ,Nice Job ,Thank You !!!
Friend builds a lot of these trucks. One of the first things he does is relocate the gas tank to the rear. The cab/driver and any passengers are safer in an accident, particularly a t-bone. Also frees up some storage room behind the seat. .
Davin . I'm Shure Glad you chose to buy a new fuel. Tank . I could tell you some REAL SAD STORIES ON LEAKING FUEL TANKS .🔥😞 .
An easy & sure fire way to check for leaks in a brass float (fuel tank or carb) is to immerse the float in hot water. The air inside will expand & force its way out any hole or holes, provided there are any.
instaBlaster.
Yeah I know that from working A carburetor rebuilder In Columbus Ohio
This is my ASMR. And some assorted recordings of the musical category known as metal. Horns to Davin and his crew for making these 🤘
Man that was cool you never see this master mechanic struggle and fight to make stuff work. Glad to learn from this man.
rocks are OK but you can also use glass pieces of a sharrered tempered glass. Just get some side glass from any car in the junkyard. Those glass pieces have lots of sharp edges, works great.
love this old chevy truck project. I enjoyed seeing the repairs on stuff you can save when you can.
I am enjoying this so much Davin. Have a Chevy 55 first series here with many similar features.
Hey Davin, good call on the new tank,, there is always 5 or 6 future leaks to 1 found,, not that I've ever had that problem,, Cough :)
LOL @Sterling Meyers ... right ;)
Classic Parts has your heater core.
I've been watching and enjoying every section of your work on the 1950 Chevy. I'm starting on a 1953 Dodge half-ton that needs all the same things and this has been really helpful to see. Thanks Davin and crew!
Thanks for sharing Davin👍
I'm so glad you guys are doing these videos! I'm working on a 55 first series and these really help!
Leaking gas tanks can be welded, according to a retired mechanic friend. Here's the secret; "Place a hose from the exhaust of a running engine inside the tank inlet. After running the engine for a few minutes the inert exhaust gases will flush all gasoline fumes back out the inlet and the tank can be welded safely without danger." I haven't tried this trick but he says he's done it many times.
Love the truck and how you are approaching getting it back to work!
When I've done this procedure with my 56 Willy's fuel tank I would hang it from a gantry with rope to slosh the milk stone without having to wrestle it.. works great that way.
Whoa... when I saw the fuel tank mounts in the cab... was so glad you got a new tank...
That is definitely going to be a real Beauty. Please stay safe and keep making the videos
Thanks again Davin I love watching, great stuff. I'm glad you replaced the old tank. Keep safe Davin Jeremy Downunder
Your videos are the best on CZcams. Keep doing what your doing. 👍
This project is so friggin cool!.......
A pinhole can deflate both a balloon and a man's optimistic enthusiasm for salvage. Absolutely worth a try though. There are spray-on liners, but I think a replacement tanks was the best course of action.
Hell yeah!! Progress!!!
I was hoping you'd replace that tank. The old one seemed to be a pending disaster even if it held liquid.
Love these videos
Kudos on getting "tanked"!...btw, your daughter is a natural with the camera.
I would love to build another truck...no garage, tools in storage. This helps...thank you!
Looking good indeed .
RTV silicone is affected by petrol. Three bond have a sealant that is good for fuel.
Thanks , Cool Brother.
Mike
Great vid ya'll.
I own a '62 Dodge W200 and I just had my tank repaired by Gas Tank Renu. Mac's Radiator Service in Bellflower, CA was the closest dealer to me. They have dealers all across the country. The tank is boiled, sandblasted inside and out, holes are repaired and then it is coated and painted. It's better than new because it is impervious to rust. The only drawback is the price, $800. But no one reproduces tanks for Sweptline Dodge trucks. So, it was my only option.
I remember the experience of behind the seat gas tank smell years ago. It got to go outside.
Replacing the tank was a good call. I do Get trying to reuse the original, but it just didn’t look worth the effort to me, but I also don’t know how much a new tank costs...but I do know that Clean Fuel is Very Important to every piston-powered machine. Good On Ya, Davin.
I soda blast the internals of sending units. It cleaned them up like new without damaging tender parts inside.
Открытым огнем бак опасно, даже старый. Могло быть БУМ!!! Обычно воду наливают в него и только потом сварка. Очень хороший канал. Thank you for videos, You are professional. I will wait new series. Sorry for my English.
Всегда жду, с нетерпением, новые серии!
sometimes... people who love the parts of machine like us, restore is more then just re-building... and make lots of thought.... it will be necessary? or maybe need?? if save money restore things.. but you can buy new one it will be better like the tanks or other major parts... good god USA is machine heaven i think great works ans video.. i hope to watch more greatest cars and mostly i want another motorcycle restore works haha...
An old bicycle chain works well for de-rusting the inside too...
Super bro 🤩🤩
What an irony I just finished putting back Hyunday Terracan fuel tank today. Had to take it down to replace brake lines, tomorrow gonna bleed the brakes. Gonna put back old fluid? Hell yeah, boiii
yeah, i need to rebuild the heater unit in my '64 el camino hopefully the parts will show up from OPGI tomorrow
15:07 that emblem is cool
Every one loves a 1950 Chevy
Unless you love a 1940 Ford....
Once that engine is running, you are are gon be tempted to restore the body as well;, I know you will😊
Chevy 👍💪
Love your channel but I would of definitely got an after market tank to put in rear if truck vs behind the seat
Dialectric grease to make sure it has a good contact? Dialectric grease inhibits conductivity. I suppose it might be better than gasket sealer since it is used around electrical connections.
Nope, dielectric grease is silicone based, and is conductive, thats why it is used on electrical connections from spark plugs, to tail light bulbs, to weatherpack wiring harness connections. Seals out moisture, keeps corrosion away.
@@markk3652 No, that is incorrect. A dielectric breaks continuity and therefore prevents electron flow. The grease is only meant to prevent moisture from corroding the connections and can also prevent spark leakage from around plug wires. You must still have solid physical contact between connectors for proper electrical operation.
Золотые руки, молодец!!!!
the brass rivets are for a good ground from both parts of the sending unit because of the gasket that is needed (rtv). I would reinstall some new ones
Davin
Many years ago I did a restoration on a 1972 Fiat X1/9
long story short fuel tank had problems
one thing you can do is go to a motorbike part supplier and they have this liquid plastic for motorbike fuel tanks that you pour into the tank when it’s empty roll it around turn it upside down and let it drain out and it leaves a film to seal up the tank........
that might help isolate any rust spots as well can’t remember what it’s called
If your gas tank is not grounded to the body your fuel gauge will not work properly. The rubber straps under the tank mounts and the rubber hoses attaching the vent and filler neck has isolated the fuel sending unit from going to ground. need to run a ground wire from a screw on the sending unit to the body.
I would blast that heater box. Won' t hurt you.
Dielectric grease, by definition, is an *insulator*. It's typically used to prevent water ingress around a boundary (which is why it's used with light bulbs, but NOT on the contacts!), but it never works to improve conductivity.
It does not insulate!! It is used on battery terminals, spark plug boots( both old and new c o p ignition) taillight bulbs, wiring harness connections. It keeps water out, to prevent corrosion, it does not electrically insulate or isolate a circuit.
@@markk3652 The very definition of "dielectric" conveys that the material is an electrical insulator. But you're correct that it's not the primary function of the grease. I can also recommend the Wikipedia article on "dielectric". A good memory tip for how to use it is "over the top, not in between". Sometimes it can cause poor electrical connections if not used properly.
Soon i hope to take the tank out of my '49 and give it a good cleaning. I plan on filling the tank with creek rocks, strapping it to a tractor tire, and letting it get its tumble on.
20mm path gravel and kerosene works well, shaken around. Once clean, you may want to consider using a two-pack tank liner (like thick paint); this will protect any thin areas but more importantly protect against ethanol burn ... if you have that in your fuel; as it's like acid on old steel.
We put round boat gas tanks into a cement mixer to tumble with cider vinegar and stainless steel screws.
@@glassgoat9601 I like the screws idea!!!
It's too bad you couldn't save the fuel tank. I've used electrolysis before and had great results cleaning old rusty tanks. Good thing there are new replacements available though. I like that you were able to salvage everything else. I've always said you don't always need new parts to repair some things.
Davin will be making a parts run in early October in a year or so, and say “what’s that noise”? He say turn off the heater motor and turn radio off, he’ll listen for a couple of minutes and say “damn, it’s got a slight knock in it”! Yea, that little rattle in that heater core doesn’t matter!
What.... No "Black Betty" this time ?. 😄
I wouldn't want to have the gas tank inside the cab at my back side. I'd worry about fumes and the possibility of a rupture from a wreck. It would be safer under the bed somewhere, .:) Thanks for the Vids
Any fuel tank you find a lot of rust in you might as well clean it out and seal it before trying to hold any liquid in it but if a replacement is available and the cost isn't ridiculous it saves a lot of time beside I've found that even sealing them usually only lasts so long if it gets a lot of use. The vibration can crack the liner and it starts to leak. Smaller stuff like motorcycle tanks I just use cheap dollar store toilet bowel cleaner and steel shot to clean them out.
Love this series, but today you were a real motor mouth repeating yourself, appreciate all your tips.
Do yourself a favor and run a ground wire from one of the sender screws to a self tapper into the cab support. Thats a common issue on these trucks especially now that you layered it all with rubber
Why don't you take the fuel tank to a radiator shop and have them to vat it out , there are business's that do that and recoat the tank ,, and put that heater core in cider vinegar for a few days , it should work , and if you don't want to spend any money on the fuel tank then remove the sending unit and put a couple of cups of really small river gravel in and cup a rag around a blow nozzle with maybe a flimsy vacuum hose on the end of the nozzle insert it in the tank and blow the gravel around and around inside the tank it has worked for me many years ..
Debbie Downer says, "The fuel tank float won't leak until you get it all assembled!!" :)
Chevy of the 40s has them i just ordeted one for my 48
КАК ВСЕГДА, ОТЛИЧНОЕ ВИДЕО!
Fuel sender should be 0 to 30 ohms resistance.
I have a 156 fire truck. Need to lower the fuel tank to replace the sending unit. How is the fill tube connected to the tank?
I have actually heard of people putting chains in a gas tank, a cleaner, and then strapping it to a tractor tire to spin it.
I guess you should flush
the heater core before installing. Or even better will be to unsolder it and ramrod each cell.
I did this job on my 90'Mazda 626 last year.
Damn I wish I could work at your shop and spend time fixing classic pickups.
Its good idea to fully fill tank with water. Water gonna push out gasolind vapours. After removing water from tank, its more or less without gasoline or vapours and safer to work with
I have also tried putting a hose from a car's tailpipe into the gas tank's filler neck and filled the inside of the tank with an inert gas (CO). Let it run for a while and that will displace the flammable gasoline vapors and you can start brazing etc. Just sayin....
W.O.W.
Davin, can I get your take on spring hose clamps vs worm style hose clamps?
i made fuel tank out of an old 88 litre gas bottle its bullet proof and clean inside
Feather Merchant's pickup truck lol
I like all the rebuilds you do here and really dig this old truck. But gotta say having that 20+ gallons of gas behind the seat is...not comforting. Glad you r and r'd the tank. Want to see you making more videos for years to come.
You nicely "insulated" the tank from the body so you need to add a ground jumper to that sender or it won't work !!! ;o)
BTW, some of the heater cores for those trucks are "round".
I'm assuming you"re referring to milk stone remover aka Phosphoric acid?
Classic industries has them brand new in stock for 189.00
hey were did you find a tank like that? im looking for a tank for a 1955 international 3.6 r100 220cid l6 or something that will work as a replacement, if you could help me out that would be great. thanks for the video tho.
Can someone fill me in as to what the milk stone is?
12 volts will eventualy burn them 6 volt senders up ask me how i know got put a resistor on the gauge to drop it back to 6 volt
use a 7805 to have a stable voltage on the fuel meter gauge!
I recommend grounding the tank
One thing that should always be mentioned when using torches and welders on fuel tanks: always make sure there is no gas in it, and there is water in the bottom!!!
Fuel tank episode...... busts out blow torch!
No old fashioned radiator shop to pull the ends off the heater core and clean that chunk out?
Simple repair......
I just curious electrically how are you going to hook up a ground for the float level on your fuel???
make up a foot long wire with eyelets on both ends put one on the sender mounting screws and the other end to a good ground. like back of cab brace ect.
I thought you said that the new gas tank came with a new sending unit?
Is good shop
You need a fuel pressure guage in the dash.
I always drove the old pickups I love the style they had but the heaters in them always sucked and I hate the cold. so I would upgrade the heaters every time the 50's trucks can use the heater cores from the 50's cars they all had the same parts but you can also use the 70's cores in the 50's trucks to have better heating . I would find the cores out of station wagons and used them they were always bigger and put out the most heat. using the heater box out of the station wagons works to but you may need to mod them to make them fit but you end up with a better heater system in your truck .
I have a little hot water heater from a 49 Ford coupe in my 40 Ford pickup, it will drive you out of the cab with the heat output coming from the flathead 8. The Southwind heaters are awesome too, but something burning gasoline in the cab with me, just puts me on edge.
I know I'm beating a dead horse but " damn you're a STUD "