stair nose option - brilliant! thank you for all of the ideas. i was getting some major anxiety trying to figure all this out on my own, frustrated, and i've got 3 rooms to do, and one has 2 transitions of different heights (and materials) UGH! thank you thank you thank you
The way you’re just tossing the example pieces once you’re done has me seriously LOL-ing!! But on a serious note, this video is just what I needed and is so thorough, thank you so much!!
Thank you very much. We have great hardwood floor in hall. Hallway wood floor to diningroom vinyl tile had a 3/4" thick wood transition strip. Redid transition using your advice with great results. No more bloody toes or falls. Thanks again.
Your videos are great! Just bought a new house...12" ceramic tile in the kitchen with about a half-inch transition down onto the original freshly-refinished hardwood. Going to go with the thicker, non-flexible planks and I was worried about how to do such a large transition. Well...now I know!! Thank you very much...I have learned alot from your videos. Keep them coming please!
that first tilted transition was really helpful (the .25"). i have this setup/problem on a floor i'm doing right now and was just frustrated and unsure how to proceed. was thinking a thin wood strip underneath but needed the tilt. THANK YOU. 🙏
Glad to help. Wanted to mention the pergo 4 in 1 which is the same as simple solutuon transition, They come with a black plastic strip in the package it is u shaped like the metal strip. This can be place on the bottom to raise it slightly or turned upside down to build it up taller. And fold it or cut it on one side to make a slant. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the comments. See ya on the next one
Hi Mr. Hunter, Outstanding demonstrations! Thank you so much for your time and effort in helping us tackle challenges we often face in our DIY projects! Best, Albert
Thanks for this. Stair nose might be what I'm looking for. The door frame from the front exterior door sits so much higher than that actual flooring in the house, it's crazy!
@sarcartist If you’d like to send a pic of what you have going on, I would be glad to take a look at it for you just to confirm a stair nose is your best option! YouFloor.net@gmail.com
Thank you so much for this. We're laying vinyl wood flooring and our kitchen floor sits about .9inches higher than our living room. The transition will not be worth it so we plan to lay down at lease 1/2'' plywood to bring it up a bit, but this gave a much better perspective than what we originally envisioned.
The first transition I did the screws did just what you said an closed up the channel, I figured the top piece would just snap if I tried to pound it in . So I grabbed a lil block of wood to tap against the metal channel
Thank you. This was very helpful. I bought some of those 4-in-1 transitions but those are only used for specific offsets -- like 3/8". I just needed 1/4" and those wouldn't work, even if I improvised a solution. The cardboard strips approach here is much better.
Thank you. I just was brave enough to help my daughter. The problem is next room ( bathroom ) I’d has. Tile ans is halo in he giver. Thanks por helping me Know how to do the transition.
Actually I spoke too soon. The double cardboard was not enought height to allow transition to secure to metal channel. The transition is now quite loose and I have to pull up and use another method. Old hardwood floor is 3/4 in and laminate is 1/2. Any other tips for a 1/4 inch wood or similar strip to raise channel?
Are you using a t mold or a reducer. If it is a T mold you will need to shim it up til it reaches the bottom of the t part. If it's a reducer, I would rip down a 1/2 inch wide strip of the flooring to put in the gap I did this video a couple weeks ago. Doing a t mold from tile to laminate. Tile was way higher. I cut wedges and then layed the flooring strip on that. Maybe this will help Also cut small pieces of transition and u channel so you can set it in and gage how much to pad it up. Not fun to take those back up. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks for the reply. I liked your suggestion for putting T molding on angle but didnt seem to work for me. I will have to remeasure and add some backing so I can use the reducer sections in my combo transition kit.
I forgot I meant to send you the link for this video I did a couple weeks ago. It's a little more close up and detailed. Also I cut a long wedge strip to bring the flooring piece up. czcams.com/video/TAZ1j3AFh9Y/video.html
Do people trip on the transitions that are 1/2 inch or higher? We have linoleum in some rooms, and the builders put something that’s like drywall under it. We started removing it in one bathroom, since it’s a lot smaller than the kitchen/laundry room. And I discovered that the linoleum and “drywall Underlayment” run under the walls. Craziest thing ever. It runs under the cabinets too. It’s a modular home, and apparently that’s the way modulars were done in the 90s. It’s a headache and a half to get this flooring up. The linoleum isn’t even attached to whatever they put under it. So it’s easy to rip it up until you get to the edge, and then it’s just buried under the walls and cabinets. I don’t know if I really want to tackle the kitchen, but the transition looks like it might trip people up.
I would just take a razor knife to the edge of cabinet and toe kicks. Sometimes a heat gun can help soften the viynl and glue and make it easier to pull up in those areas. As for the transition , as lo g as it's a reducer, I've never had a problem with them. But if it a bull nose , it could be a stripper. I would replace it with a reducer if that's the case. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
excellent demonstration. What is the best way to go about this if you are working in a basement (concrete)? How do you attach the wood raiser piece to the concrete floor?
Very helpful, dude! I need to drop 1/8" from one floor to the next, but had only level "T" molding. You've shown how we can install it on a slight slant, effectively changing to transition molding. Never would've thought of that. I don't have one of those metal channels-but if I use strips of the right height underneath, I don't see why I can't screw the strips to the floor (being sure the screws are flush with the top strip's surface), then glue the molding to that. Thanks!
Hey Ken thanks for joining the team. The bell is the notification icon. You can custom set it to get notified when I put more videos out. Thanks for the comment
Hi Mr Hunter. My area to transition from is wide, I will need two reducers from laminate to tile. What is the best way to join the two pieces together so it will be seemless as much as possible? Thank you for your help.
You will probably have to make a custom transition for something like that. Maybe this video will help give you some ideas. czcams.com/video/ky_CQ9CpfEA/video.html
Hi. I’m having an issue going from carpet to laminate. The installers thin reducer broke a while back and we purchased one like you have in the video. I’m going to try cardboard strips about a 1/2 inch wide into the channel. Should I place another piece to bring up the cardboard so that it’s level with the carpeted high side?
The way I would do it is to install the transition straight down to the floor Lippincott over the laminate then install a piece of tack strip about a 1/4 of an inchaway from that transitionthen with the carpet laying loose over the transition I take my knife and lay it against the bull nose transition and cut it straight across. Then use a kicker to lip it over the tack strip and tuck between the transition and tacksteip. Here's a video that may help czcams.com/video/GIb6NQMx0pA/video.html. Thanks for the question
Thank you for this. I'm going to be installing vinyl plank (I know the general installation concept is the same as laminate) in a doorway but the planks will be running perpendicular to how they were in your demonstration. They will be in a doorway with a 4.5625" jamb depth. Planks are 6.5mm high and will transition to sheet vinyl. I'm trying to figure out how many inches into the doorway I will need to run the planks to have a transition that calls for a 1" gap between plank and lower floor. The door swings away from the planks. The transition strip is vinyl (designed to match the planks). Any suggestions?
You'll either have to cut the flooring back just a little and install an endcap reducer. Or Lay some painter's tape down a little bit in front of it all the way across and use some 100% silicone to seal off the crack. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the question
I'm a new subscriber and I have a question that you may be able to answer. I am installing vinyl plank in a room that is half tile and half carpet. If possible I want to leave the tile and install the planks over it. Obviously, that will create a difference in elevation when the carpet and padding are removed. A transition strip is not an option because an unbroken look is required and the strip would break it up into two. My question is, would I be able to use a self-leveler to eliminate that difference in height? I realize that it would be out of level on the part where the self-leveler made the transition, but would it show if it were a three or four-foot gradual transition? Anyway, any info would be greatly appreciated, and thank you for the helpful videos. They are among the best on CZcams.
1st of all sean thanks for subscribing. And thanks for the kinds words. Thus is what I would do. 1st if your going into the kitchen, I know lvp is t hmm in but make sure if you put the flooring on top of the tile that your dishwasher will sit on top of the new floor just incase you have to pull the dishwasher out. Check refrigerator height too if you have cabinets over it. The only thing about putting lvp in place of carpet is the door jambs may be too high. It's not a big deal unless you're OCD. Lol. so the floor leveling may work but if the drop is too high you may spend more time and energy trying to float it out , where you can just buy some 1/2 plywood to build it up. Then if you wanted to float it out with leveler it won't be such a drastic drop. The only other option is to tear out the tile. Not terrible but really dusty so plastic off everything if you go that route. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks so much for the quick response. I had considered the plywood fix but there is a problem with that because at one end of the room the carpet runs into a sliding glass door that has a low bottom track. The carpet and padding are higher than the track. The planks and underlayment will be about that same height but 1/2 inch plywood puts me too high. Also, I am going into the kitchen with the plank so thanks for the heads up on the dishwasher and refrigerator. That could very well save me a big headache. If I were to float out that transition, how wide do you think I would have to go to make it not a noticeable slope. Once again, thank you for the response. I really appreciate it.
So I have started my floor but just got four rows down and just remembered the transition piece. So I have a space that is two different highs and widths. I'm in a dining room/kitchen coming from hardwood floors and glue down laminat floor. my question is what's the best transition to use and how big of a gap should I keep in between the two floors. I'm laying down vinyl plank floor by the way. Wish I could take a picture. The line that is there is different because there was a island so the wood floor was up to that and then came up more to the tile I'm guessing. I took up vinyl plank flooring and subfloor and laminat glue down floor. The floor is about 1/4 inch gap so far. The hight is about 3/8 inche. Thank you for any help and love watching your channel.
Kinda hard to get a visual I think I can help. Would it be possible to take a few pics from different angles on your phone and send them to youfloor.net@gmail.com I will take a look and reread your comment and get back to you. Thanks for the question
Hmm never had that happen. Are you sure you’re typing .net after you floor. If you can get it to work you can Try sending them to Zconstructionllc@gmail.com that’s my other email for work. Sorry for the inconvenience, Z
Please help me out here, not only are my floors different heights but the floors are not level to each other. For example, one side the tile is higher maybe six inches in then the rest of the way the laminate is higher. What do I do? I can’t rip up the floors.
6 inches? That is a big difference. If you want you can send me some pics to youfloor.net@gmail.com. at least I can put my eyes on it and help you figure something out. Holla
Yes. That can be a challenging situation. I think I shot a video of that once but didn't put it out. May just have to do that. Thanks for the suggestion a need thanks for the support
going from foyer to DIning room. DR floor is 3/8 in lower than foyer. Is it best to use a 12 foot transition piece between the 2 areas or should I raise the floor in the dining room. BTW--do door from foyer to dining room.
Hey thanks for the question. Honestly this issue is a personal taste issue for the most part. Structurally it doesn't make a difference. If it separates the 2 rooms a transition is fine. However some people don't even want a transition going into their bedroom. So they probably will want the floor to flow from one room to the other with no transitions strips. If that's the case the you will need to either raise one floor or lower the other one. Hope that helps. Fell free to ask any other questions if you think I of one later
The stair nose wouldn't look right from a hallway to a bedroom though. Any suggestions for a hallway that we have previously laid down LVP over top of it. To now where we tore the carpets and pads out of the bedrooms and put LVP down but our installer is having a hard time figuring out hit to do the transition from the hallway to the bedrooms. there is a 3/4 height difference. One transition is now broken that we had with the hallway install. The other two bedrooms still have the original transition strip on . Can we just maybe cut a piece of angled wood that fits underneath of that transition strip and extend it out a bit further, then glue it on to it?
Okey first off I love your videos they're super informative and helpful now to situation I'm having I have tile going from bathroom into hallway one solid floor basically no room for u joints or t molding and I'm installing vinyl plank over existing tile in the bathroom how would I go about making smooth transition from the new vinyl floor over existing tile floor in the door way ? would I glue down a reducer of some sort or how would you tackle this situation! Thanks for any suggestions
So I think what your saying is that you have existing tile in the bathroom that flows out into the hall as one floor. And you will be laying viynl plank on top of the bathroom part. Correct ? If that's the case then here is a link to one of my videos from last year. czcams.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/video.html It involves gluing a transition down on concrete. It that doesn't feel comfortable with that you can always get a masonry bit and install the u channel(track) that comes with the transition on the tile. And then just click the transition in the track(u channel) most transitions come with plugs and screws to attach to concrete or tile. Hope that helps. Let me know if I didn't address your question correctly. And thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR that's correct so I can skip the rail part and just use construction adhesive for the transition piece or reducer so I can avoid drilling into the tile ?
That is correct. That's what I would do. I usually clip the track on the bottom and glue the whole thing down. For two reasons. 1 it makes the transition a little stiffer. And it keep it off the ground and from touching the ground. But that only when I'm going straight to concrete. On tile it should be fine. I use pl 3x adhesive. But honestly I've used 100% silicone in a pinch. Thank for the engagement. I love this stuff
Hay buddy you doing awesome job, can you guide me I need to install transition strip between bathroom and hallway ,hallway has vinal and bathroom has tile so the problem is it is 3.6 cm height how do I fix that I mean level it up?
You probably have already finished the job so I'll just give you a heads up for the next time your faced with any transition situation , simply get wood shims or shingles and place them on the floor next to your transition point ( thick end next to the already finished floor) , determine the finished floor to new floor hight difference.....for example, if it's 1/2" and your new floor thickness is 1/4" then you would need to use a shim that is 1/4" at the thick end to raise it to be flush ! You can buy them up to two feet long and trim to your need !
@@YOUFLOOR I do also, as you probably already know the length of the shim is determined by the height of the transition point, 3/4" difference ÷ two feet makes the rise undetectable ! Making your own means you can customize them to your situation, I'm preaching to the choir but if someone else needs to know then at least they can ask for more details from you !
Easier to show you than tell you. If you go to my channel and go to Playlist, there is a list of all types of transition installations. I'm sure there is 2 or 3 different way I did carpet transitions. one should be the way yours is. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
What would be the best way to transition two engineered floors joining a 3/8 floor to a 1/2 inch floor? Is there a way to do this without a transition strip?
Thanks for response. We were going to glue the boards to a slab and I thought I could cut off any tongues and treat this transition area like floor tiles.@@YOUFLOOR
Very helpful video. My bedroom hardwood floor is 1/2" higher (due to the 1/2" plywood underlayment below it) than the Tile floor in the bathroom. I haven't put the underlayment between the hardwood floor and the Vinyl yet, as Im still thinking how to transition these two. There is a 4" gap that I can use to my advantage. Any tips?
Please email me some pictures of your situation. You mentioned tile, hardwood, and vinyl so I'm not 100% sure but think you are talking about vinyl tiles transitioning to hardwood. Pics will really help! Zconstructionllc@gmail.com Thank you for the question!
I'm going from Lifeproof rigid vinyl flooring in a living room to rigid vinyl flooring in a kitchen, OVER VINYL flooring. The kitchen vinyl is 1/8" higher than the living room. Additionally, the rigid vinyl flooring is going one direction in the living room and the opposite direction in the kitchen. There is a 1 3/4" beveled threshold installed between the living room floor and the kitchen floor. I would like to know the best way to make the transition from flooring in the LR to the Kitchen, which is 1/8" higher (thickness of the vinyl).
I have the exact same problem in my open concept kitchen/living room! Mr. Stiles, did you ever find an answer to this anywhere online since your question was not responded to? I don’t want vinyl flooring, but I do want laminate. I’ve read some of the comments, and it seems that it will be better to raise the plywood in the living room, than to put a transition smack dab in the middle of my open concept. I still don’t know if there’s a product to make this possible at just 1/8”.
I'm sorry guys I must have missed this question. If you were going g with new floor and running in the same direction in both rooms then you could just remove the vinyl. But if you are trying to put a transition between two floors running different directions you will have to use a t mold. They make them for lifeproof and they lay pretty flat. Hope that helps let me know what you ended up doing.
Not sure if these are the same situation but if you are I stalling new flooring. The viynl can be removed to bring one floor down even with the other. If it is a big open area. And you are trying g to tie into an existing floor. One trick you can try to blend in flooring all on one level. Get some felt paper. The thicker kind. It is about a little under 1/6th of an inch. Then try stepping it down in 2 to 3 layers it will help to make a gradual transition from the higher floor to the lower one
Thank you sir for your responses. I also saw where some people were removing the vinyl and (in my case) the carpet, then using thin cork underlayment to even up the floors. Have you ever heard of that sir?
No I personally have never heard of that. But I have used floor patch to skim coat and blend in the 2 heights. But gotta be careful not to put too much
It amazes me that you are still using those shitty Phillips screws. You can hear the driver skipping. Robertson screws buddy. Super helpful tips by the way. Thanks
Check out the full video. I go over that at the end. Also I checked out your channel. Man you have a lot of reviews and different topics. Looks like your harbor freight videos do pretty good. Thanks for the comment
how would you transition from a leveled floor too a floor thats off 5/8s of a inch on one side but on the other side its flush to the leveled floor ..its sloped any advice would help
That's a tuff one. Might have to use a t mold. Leave a big enuff gap between floors then try building up the high side before installing your u channel. Great question. And good idea for a video
Check this out. As I mention in the video if this was a reducer instead of a t mold this wouldn't be a bad drop. Thanks for the comment. czcams.com/video/TAZ1j3AFh9Y/video.html
I have a 1 inch drop and don't want that high of a transition. What are your thoughts on just laying down some 3/4 OSB and then I would have a nicer transition.
Hmm. Yes 1" is pretty high if you are going to do a full tear out and flooring and price is not an issue then laying 3/4 OSB should be fine however if you're wanting to save a little bit of cash you can probably buy a transition that is a little wider or you can custom make one that doesn't make that drop so Extreme. Hope that helps thanks for the question
YOUFLOOR Flooring tips and tricks do you have a type of transition I can buy? I also have a 1 inch hardwood floor height different that I’m trying to transition as smoothly as possible. Thanks.
Very informative. Thank you. What do I do when I install laminate and I come to an exterior door? I assume that I keep the 3/8" gap. Should I install a transition piece or somehow attach a quarter-round? Thank you.
Yes sir either one will work. I prefer the 1/4 round. But your floor5will need to notched just right so there is a small expansion gap at the door but the floor still slides under the jambs with no gap
In this case. If it were me I would run the last riser but would roll the carpet at the top over the stair nose and staple it then install the riser so the carpet is tucked against the riser for a clean finish. But if you are ever planning on flooring the top, make sure the riser is out enuff to allow for a wood stair nose later. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR i was think the samething,but I tried that on the first step and had trip some off the riser long ways and when I put the stair nose on I had the riser not covering by the stair nose. I had to go back and cut all the stair nose off then add a small piece of wood to make it level with the floor. Its alot of work. 5 more steps to do.
Yep. Oh wow. That stinks. So sorry to hear you went through all that but honestly those mistakes are what makes us experts in the long run. Check out the stair video I put out yesterday. I addressed that very issue on a diagram. Took forever to put together. But I wanted it to be super easy to understand. You gotta run the risers all the way up flush with the top of the treads. Thanks for the comment.
Hello hopefully you can answer me ,I'm planning to install laminate flooring around my wardrobe and I have no clue how to join the laminate floor with it ...please can u guide me
Are you trying to click into an existing floor or are you just trying to line the new floor up with another in a hallway or adjoining room. Or is it a total different floor than the other
The min I saw him screw it to table and not edit it out I subscribed..
Lol. Thank you brotha.
stair nose option - brilliant! thank you for all of the ideas. i was getting some major anxiety trying to figure all this out on my own, frustrated, and i've got 3 rooms to do, and one has 2 transitions of different heights (and materials) UGH! thank you thank you thank you
Right on brotha
The way you’re just tossing the example pieces once you’re done has me seriously LOL-ing!! But on a serious note, this video is just what I needed and is so thorough, thank you so much!!
You got it. Thanks for the comment
Thank you very much. We have great hardwood floor in hall. Hallway wood floor to diningroom vinyl tile had a 3/4" thick wood transition strip. Redid transition using your advice with great results. No more bloody toes or falls. Thanks again.
That's Awesome. Good to hear
You’ve made a tough situation for me super easy, but that is what professionals do! Thanks for the video, it’s super helpful!
Thank you. That means a lot
Best and easiest way to solve my situation.
Your videos are great! Just bought a new house...12" ceramic tile in the kitchen with about a half-inch transition down onto the original freshly-refinished hardwood. Going to go with the thicker, non-flexible planks and I was worried about how to do such a large transition. Well...now I know!! Thank you very much...I have learned alot from your videos. Keep them coming please!
Why.. Thank You very much. It's nice to be appreciated. Good luck with your project. Thanks for the comment. Peace
that first tilted transition was really helpful (the .25"). i have this setup/problem on a floor i'm doing right now and was just frustrated and unsure how to proceed. was thinking a thin wood strip underneath but needed the tilt. THANK YOU. 🙏
Glad to help. Wanted to mention the pergo 4 in 1 which is the same as simple solutuon transition, They come with a black plastic strip in the package it is u shaped like the metal strip. This can be place on the bottom to raise it slightly or turned upside down to build it up taller. And fold it or cut it on one side to make a slant. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the comments. See ya on the next one
THANK YOU for this video. New in industry selling flooring and have a ton to understand.
You got it. Thanks for the comment
Hi Mr. Hunter, Outstanding demonstrations! Thank you so much for your time and effort in helping us tackle challenges we often face in our DIY projects! Best, Albert
You got it brother. Thanks for the support
Thanks for this. Stair nose might be what I'm looking for. The door frame from the front exterior door sits so much higher than that actual flooring in the house, it's crazy!
@sarcartist If you’d like to send a pic of what you have going on, I would be glad to take a look at it for you just to confirm a stair nose is your best option!
YouFloor.net@gmail.com
Thank you so much for this. We're laying vinyl wood flooring and our kitchen floor sits about .9inches higher than our living room. The transition will not be worth it so we plan to lay down at lease 1/2'' plywood to bring it up a bit, but this gave a much better perspective than what we originally envisioned.
Right on. Not sure if you meant 9 inches or 9/16 lol but 9 inches is quite a drop. Let me know if I can help in any way. Thanks for the comment
Instablaster.
What is instablaster?
I'm doing research for a client's blog. You have an excellent video, that clearly explains transitions. Thank you for making it.
Nice! Good luck and thank you
Great video, the video is a big help in figuring out how to fix my problem.
The first transition I did the screws did just what you said an closed up the channel, I figured the top piece would just snap if I tried to pound it in . So I grabbed a lil block of wood to tap against the metal channel
Best video for floor transitions! Great job
Thank you been wanting to do an updated one. There are lots of new products out there and new ways to do things. Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the video and guidance. You saved me copious amounts of swearing and a third trip to Menards.
Hey Kent sorry I didn't see your comment. Glad it all worked out. Thanks for stopping by 👊
Thank you. This was very helpful.
I bought some of those 4-in-1 transitions but those are only used for specific offsets -- like 3/8". I just needed 1/4" and those wouldn't work, even if I improvised a solution.
The cardboard strips approach here is much better.
Glad it worked out. Thanks for the comment
Outstanding coverage of the most common transitions! Your mock ups were the best!
Thanks man. Worked hard on this on. Feels good to be appreciated. Thanks for the comment
Thank you. I just was brave enough to help my daughter. The problem is next room ( bathroom ) I’d has. Tile ans is halo in he giver. Thanks por helping me Know how to do the transition.
You got it👍
Wow, awesome tips. I love the cardboard strip tip. Good stuff.
Thank you
Excellent video. Really appreciate the instruction. Subscribed.
Thanks, Nathan. I really appreciate that. Thanks for the comment
i reference this video a lot. thank you!
Ha. That's awesome. Thank you
You are true master👍👍👍
& thank you for sharing most difficult part of flooring,,,
Thank you. Appreciate the kind words.
Slip it in, that feels good 😂😂😂😂, good video, keep up the good work
Thanks brotha
This guy is the master. He has the answers. Great job!
Thank you very much sir
Great cardboard tip for 1/4 inch difference
Actually I spoke too soon. The double cardboard was not enought height to allow transition to secure to metal channel. The transition is now quite loose and I have to pull up and use another method. Old hardwood floor is 3/4 in and laminate is 1/2. Any other tips for a 1/4 inch wood or similar strip to raise channel?
Are you using a t mold or a reducer. If it is a T mold you will need to shim it up til it reaches the bottom of the t part. If it's a reducer, I would rip down a 1/2 inch wide strip of the flooring to put in the gap
I did this video a couple weeks ago. Doing a t mold from tile to laminate. Tile was way higher. I cut wedges and then layed the flooring strip on that. Maybe this will help
Also cut small pieces of transition and u channel so you can set it in and gage how much to pad it up. Not fun to take those back up. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks for the reply. I liked your suggestion for putting T molding on angle but didnt seem to work for me. I will have to remeasure and add some backing so I can use the reducer sections in my combo transition kit.
I forgot I meant to send you the link for this video I did a couple weeks ago. It's a little more close up and detailed. Also I cut a long wedge strip to bring the flooring piece up. czcams.com/video/TAZ1j3AFh9Y/video.html
Thank you so much. Great video.
You got it. Thanks for the comment
Do people trip on the transitions that are 1/2 inch or higher? We have linoleum in some rooms, and the builders put something that’s like drywall under it. We started removing it in one bathroom, since it’s a lot smaller than the kitchen/laundry room. And I discovered that the linoleum and “drywall Underlayment” run under the walls. Craziest thing ever. It runs under the cabinets too. It’s a modular home, and apparently that’s the way modulars were done in the 90s. It’s a headache and a half to get this flooring up. The linoleum isn’t even attached to whatever they put under it. So it’s easy to rip it up until you get to the edge, and then it’s just buried under the walls and cabinets. I don’t know if I really want to tackle the kitchen, but the transition looks like it might trip people up.
I would just take a razor knife to the edge of cabinet and toe kicks. Sometimes a heat gun can help soften the viynl and glue and make it easier to pull up in those areas. As for the transition , as lo g as it's a reducer, I've never had a problem with them. But if it a bull nose , it could be a stripper. I would replace it with a reducer if that's the case. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Beautiful demonstration from the side really helps show how it works
Thank you
oo thanks for the info
excellent demonstration. What is the best way to go about this if you are working in a basement (concrete)? How do you attach the wood raiser piece to the concrete floor?
Awesome video..
GREAT JOB !.........
Thanks randy good to see ya back. You rock brotha
Great tip
Now I know how to resolve my issue
Thank you so much
Thanks Bro… very helpful
You got it brotha. Thanks for the comment
Best explanation I've seen. Good job!
Thanks means a lot.
Extremely helpful...thank you!
Np. Thanks for the comment
Wonderful video just confirmed what I was thinking up. Thanks
Great stuff thank you
very cool thank you, i realized the T wasnt good for me and i need to get the other one that has the side piece
No problem. Thanks for the comment
Excellent video and presentation 👏
Thank you
You're videos are fantastic! Thank you
Thanks man. That feels great after the 2 day editing I just did.. I appreciate it.
Very helpful, dude! I need to drop 1/8" from one floor to the next, but had only level "T" molding. You've shown how we can install it on a slight slant, effectively changing to transition molding. Never would've thought of that. I don't have one of those metal channels-but if I use strips of the right height underneath, I don't see why I can't screw the strips to the floor (being sure the screws are flush with the top strip's surface), then glue the molding to that. Thanks!
Sounds good to me but I would use wood or plastic strips. Not cardboard. Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the excellent video. Great instruction and future ideas.
💯 I feel you 😁
And I feel you brother. Thanks for the comment. Peace
Thank you
@T F you are welcome!
Good ideas I was thinking on adding subfloor on top of my subfloor to make it level. This seems easier
Right on brotha
You are a great help to mankind. Liked, subscribed but I don't see a bell. You would be my first bell though LoL.
Hey Ken thanks for joining the team. The bell is the notification icon. You can custom set it to get notified when I put more videos out. Thanks for the comment
Thank You for the information video
Hi Mr Hunter. My area to transition from is wide, I will need two reducers from laminate to tile. What is the best way to join the two pieces together so it will be seemless as much as possible? Thank you for your help.
You will probably have to make a custom transition for something like that. Maybe this video will help give you some ideas. czcams.com/video/ky_CQ9CpfEA/video.html
Hi. I’m having an issue going from carpet to laminate. The installers thin reducer broke a while back and we purchased one like you have in the video. I’m going to try cardboard strips about a 1/2 inch wide into the channel. Should I place another piece to bring up the cardboard so that it’s level with the carpeted high side?
The way I would do it is to install the transition straight down to the floor Lippincott over the laminate then install a piece of tack strip about a 1/4 of an inchaway from that transitionthen with the carpet laying loose over the transition I take my knife and lay it against the bull nose transition and cut it straight across. Then use a kicker to lip it over the tack strip and tuck between the transition and tacksteip. Here's a video that may help czcams.com/video/GIb6NQMx0pA/video.html. Thanks for the question
very good, very informative, solved my problem
Awesome! glad to hear. Thanks for the comment
Thank you very much! Very good very in detail.
Thank you
Great video man. Where can I find these metal U channels?
Those usually come with the transitions when you buy them. Hope that helps
But what if you have concrete subfloor?
czcams.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/video.html check this video out. It may help. Thanks for the question
Excellent. Question, what if your floor is on concrete? Then how do you attach everything??
Hey Benson, check this video out. It mat help. czcams.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/video.html
Hi Mr. Hunter, If I used a reducer, then I won't need to have my cardboard piece at a slight angle, correct? Please advise. Best, Albert
That is correct as long as it can reach the top floor. The slight angle is usually when trying to use a t mold. Reducer will make the drip for you.
@@YOUFLOOR
Thank you for this. I'm going to be installing vinyl plank (I know the general installation concept is the same as laminate) in a doorway but the planks will be running perpendicular to how they were in your demonstration. They will be in a doorway with a 4.5625" jamb depth. Planks are 6.5mm high and will transition to sheet vinyl. I'm trying to figure out how many inches into the doorway I will need to run the planks to have a transition that calls for a 1" gap between plank and lower floor. The door swings away from the planks. The transition strip is vinyl (designed to match the planks). Any suggestions?
How do I seal or cover flooring joint that butts against a metal threshold hold and keep flooring from bowing, which would prevent opening front door.
You'll either have to cut the flooring back just a little and install an endcap reducer. Or Lay some painter's tape down a little bit in front of it all the way across and use some 100% silicone to seal off the crack. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the question
Thank you!
No problem
This helped me alot, thanks!!!!!
Glad to help. Thanks for the comment
Ah feeel yaah, bruh!
👍
I'm a new subscriber and I have a question that you may be able to answer. I am installing vinyl plank in a room that is half tile and half carpet. If possible I want to leave the tile and install the planks over it. Obviously, that will create a difference in elevation when the carpet and padding are removed. A transition strip is not an option because an unbroken look is required and the strip would break it up into two. My question is, would I be able to use a self-leveler to eliminate that difference in height? I realize that it would be out of level on the part where the self-leveler made the transition, but would it show if it were a three or four-foot gradual transition? Anyway, any info would be greatly appreciated, and thank you for the helpful videos. They are among the best on CZcams.
1st of all sean thanks for subscribing. And thanks for the kinds words. Thus is what I would do. 1st if your going into the kitchen, I know lvp is t hmm in but make sure if you put the flooring on top of the tile that your dishwasher will sit on top of the new floor just incase you have to pull the dishwasher out. Check refrigerator height too if you have cabinets over it. The only thing about putting lvp in place of carpet is the door jambs may be too high. It's not a big deal unless you're OCD. Lol. so the floor leveling may work but if the drop is too high you may spend more time and energy trying to float it out , where you can just buy some 1/2 plywood to build it up. Then if you wanted to float it out with leveler it won't be such a drastic drop. The only other option is to tear out the tile. Not terrible but really dusty so plastic off everything if you go that route. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks so much for the quick response. I had considered the plywood fix but there is a problem with that because at one end of the room the carpet runs into a sliding glass door that has a low bottom track. The carpet and padding are higher than the track. The planks and underlayment will be about that same height but 1/2 inch plywood puts me too high. Also, I am going into the kitchen with the plank so thanks for the heads up on the dishwasher and refrigerator. That could very well save me a big headache. If I were to float out that transition, how wide do you think I would have to go to make it not a noticeable slope. Once again, thank you for the response. I really appreciate it.
So I have started my floor but just got four rows down and just remembered the transition piece. So I have a space that is two different highs and widths. I'm in a dining room/kitchen coming from hardwood floors and glue down laminat floor. my question is what's the best transition to use and how big of a gap should I keep in between the two floors. I'm laying down vinyl plank floor by the way. Wish I could take a picture. The line that is there is different because there was a island so the wood floor was up to that and then came up more to the tile I'm guessing. I took up vinyl plank flooring and subfloor and laminat glue down floor. The floor is about 1/4 inch gap so far. The hight is about 3/8 inche. Thank you for any help and love watching your channel.
Kinda hard to get a visual I think I can help. Would it be possible to take a few pics from different angles on your phone and send them to youfloor.net@gmail.com I will take a look and reread your comment and get back to you. Thanks for the question
@YOUFLOOR I tried but it sent it to someone else. I'm not sure what is going on.
Hmm never had that happen. Are you sure you’re typing .net after you floor. If you can get it to work you can Try sending them to Zconstructionllc@gmail.com that’s my other email for work. Sorry for the inconvenience, Z
Please help me out here, not only are my floors different heights but the floors are not level to each other. For example, one side the tile is higher maybe six inches in then the rest of the way the laminate is higher. What do I do? I can’t rip up the floors.
6 inches? That is a big difference. If you want you can send me some pics to youfloor.net@gmail.com. at least I can put my eyes on it and help you figure something out. Holla
Good video. Thanks.
Thank brotha
Suggestions on finishing lifeproof flooring with planks that run parallel up to outside doors?
Yes. That can be a challenging situation. I think I shot a video of that once but didn't put it out. May just have to do that. Thanks for the suggestion a need thanks for the support
going from foyer to DIning room. DR floor is 3/8 in lower than foyer. Is it best to use a 12 foot transition piece between the 2 areas or should I raise the floor in the dining room. BTW--do door from foyer to dining room.
Hey thanks for the question. Honestly this issue is a personal taste issue for the most part. Structurally it doesn't make a difference. If it separates the 2 rooms a transition is fine. However some people don't even want a transition going into their bedroom. So they probably will want the floor to flow from one room to the other with no transitions strips. If that's the case the you will need to either raise one floor or lower the other one. Hope that helps. Fell free to ask any other questions if you think I of one later
The stair nose wouldn't look right from a hallway to a bedroom though. Any suggestions for a hallway that we have previously laid down LVP over top of it. To now where we tore the carpets and pads out of the bedrooms and put LVP down but our installer is having a hard time figuring out hit to do the transition from the hallway to the bedrooms. there is a 3/4 height difference. One transition is now broken that we had with the hallway install. The other two bedrooms still have the original transition strip on . Can we just maybe cut a piece of angled wood that fits underneath of that transition strip and extend it out a bit further, then glue it on to it?
Probably if you would like to send some pics,I’ll take a look. Youfloor.net@gmail.com
where can you buy that ash color transition?
Theses come from Home Depot but you can find almost anything you need at floor and decor. Thanks for the question
Okey first off I love your videos they're super informative and helpful now to situation I'm having I have tile going from bathroom into hallway one solid floor basically no room for u joints or t molding and I'm installing vinyl plank over existing tile in the bathroom how would I go about making smooth transition from the new vinyl floor over existing tile floor in the door way ? would I glue down a reducer of some sort or how would you tackle this situation! Thanks for any suggestions
So I think what your saying is that you have existing tile in the bathroom that flows out into the hall as one floor. And you will be laying viynl plank on top of the bathroom part. Correct ? If that's the case then here is a link to one of my videos from last year. czcams.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/video.html It involves gluing a transition down on concrete. It that doesn't feel comfortable with that you can always get a masonry bit and install the u channel(track) that comes with the transition on the tile. And then just click the transition in the track(u channel) most transitions come with plugs and screws to attach to concrete or tile. Hope that helps. Let me know if I didn't address your question correctly. And thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR that's correct so I can skip the rail part and just use construction adhesive for the transition piece or reducer so I can avoid drilling into the tile ?
That is correct. That's what I would do. I usually clip the track on the bottom and glue the whole thing down. For two reasons. 1 it makes the transition a little stiffer. And it keep it off the ground and from touching the ground. But that only when I'm going straight to concrete. On tile it should be fine. I use pl 3x adhesive. But honestly I've used 100% silicone in a pinch. Thank for the engagement. I love this stuff
@@YOUFLOOR appreciate it I'm gonna give that stuff a try and hope this job comes out as clean as I'm visualizing thanks for the advice!
My laminate is almost 1/2" higher than to my outside concrete door step not sure what i could do
May need a reducer for something like that.
Hay buddy you doing awesome job, can you guide me I need to install transition strip between bathroom and hallway ,hallway has vinal and bathroom has tile so the problem is it is 3.6 cm height how do I fix that I mean level it up?
You may have to glue a spacer
To the concrete and then glue your transition to that. Make sure to get a reducer, not a t mold
Thanks
You probably have already finished the job so I'll just give you a heads up for the next time your faced with any transition situation , simply get wood shims or shingles and place them on the floor next to your transition point ( thick end next to the already finished floor) , determine the finished floor to new floor hight difference.....for example, if it's 1/2" and your new floor thickness is 1/4" then you would need to use a shim that is 1/4" at the thick end to raise it to be flush ! You can buy them up to two feet long and trim to your need !
Great idea. I have done something similar, but I just made my own shims. With a table saw I can make them as long as I want
Thanks for the tip👍
@@YOUFLOOR I do also, as you probably already know the length of the shim is determined by the height of the transition point, 3/4" difference ÷ two feet makes the rise undetectable ! Making your own means you can customize them to your situation, I'm preaching to the choir but if someone else needs to know then at least they can ask for more details from you !
What if you are going from vinyl, to concrete, and it’s over a inch drop
That may call for a custom transition. That is a big drop
I have a laminate floor that was just put in it’s about a half inch or more higher than my carpet floor how do I transition there
Easier to show you than tell you. If you go to my channel and go to Playlist, there is a list of all types of transition installations. I'm sure there is 2 or 3 different way I did carpet transitions. one should be the way yours is. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
What would be the best way to transition two engineered floors joining a 3/8 floor to a 1/2 inch floor? Is there a way to do this without a transition strip?
@john hughes You will have to use a transition. Even if you tried to lock them in together the locking system wouldn’t work. Thanks for the question!
Thanks for response. We were going to glue the boards to a slab and I thought I could cut off any tongues and treat this transition area like floor tiles.@@YOUFLOOR
Very helpful video. My bedroom hardwood floor is 1/2" higher (due to the 1/2" plywood underlayment below it) than the Tile floor in the bathroom. I haven't put the underlayment between the hardwood floor and the Vinyl yet, as Im still thinking how to transition these two. There is a 4" gap that I can use to my advantage. Any tips?
Please email me some pictures of your situation. You mentioned tile, hardwood, and vinyl so I'm not 100% sure but think you are talking about vinyl tiles transitioning to hardwood. Pics will really help! Zconstructionllc@gmail.com
Thank you for the question!
Thank you, your video helped me greatly
I'm going from Lifeproof rigid vinyl flooring in a living room to rigid vinyl flooring in a kitchen, OVER VINYL flooring. The kitchen vinyl is 1/8" higher than the living room. Additionally, the rigid vinyl flooring is going one direction in the living room and the opposite direction in the kitchen. There is a 1 3/4" beveled threshold installed between the living room floor and the kitchen floor. I would like to know the best way to make the transition from flooring in the LR to the Kitchen, which is 1/8" higher (thickness of the vinyl).
I have the exact same problem in my open concept kitchen/living room! Mr. Stiles, did you ever find an answer to this anywhere online since your question was not responded to? I don’t want vinyl flooring, but I do want laminate. I’ve read some of the comments, and it seems that it will be better to raise the plywood in the living room, than to put a transition smack dab in the middle of my open concept. I still don’t know if there’s a product to make this possible at just 1/8”.
I'm sorry guys I must have missed this question. If you were going g with new floor and running in the same direction in both rooms then you could just remove the vinyl. But if you are trying to put a transition between two floors running different directions you will have to use a t mold. They make them for lifeproof and they lay pretty flat. Hope that helps let me know what you ended up doing.
Not sure if these are the same situation but if you are I stalling new flooring. The viynl can be removed to bring one floor down even with the other. If it is a big open area. And you are trying g to tie into an existing floor. One trick you can try to blend in flooring all on one level. Get some felt paper. The thicker kind. It is about a little under 1/6th of an inch. Then try stepping it down in 2 to 3 layers it will help to make a gradual transition from the higher floor to the lower one
Thank you sir for your responses. I also saw where some people were removing the vinyl and (in my case) the carpet, then using thin cork underlayment to even up the floors. Have you ever heard of that sir?
No I personally have never heard of that. But I have used floor patch to skim coat and blend in the 2 heights. But gotta be careful not to put too much
It amazes me that you are still using those shitty Phillips screws. You can hear the driver skipping. Robertson screws buddy. Super helpful tips by the way. Thanks
I have a spot going into my bathroom that drops 1 1/8 of an inch any ideas? I've stubbed my toes a lot on it.
Check out the full video. I go over that at the end. Also I checked out your channel. Man you have a lot of reviews and different topics. Looks like your harbor freight videos do pretty good. Thanks for the comment
Wait you mean you have a dip in the floor?
@@YOUFLOOR The floor looks like it had overlays in the hallway but not the bathroom so it has a stepdown of 1 1/8 of an inch.
how would you transition from a leveled floor too a floor thats off 5/8s of a inch on one side but on the other side its flush to the leveled floor ..its sloped any advice would help
That's a tuff one. Might have to use a t mold. Leave a big enuff gap between floors then try building up the high side before installing your u channel. Great question. And good idea for a video
Just as I thought, there are no products that cleanly transition from 1/2, 3/4 or 5/8 down to zero over about 2 - 4 inches. Custom work as usual.
Check this out. As I mention in the video if this was a reducer instead of a t mold this wouldn't be a bad drop. Thanks for the comment. czcams.com/video/TAZ1j3AFh9Y/video.html
Holy cow get a new bit for that drill
Lol I did. Botherd me as much as it did you. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR I was cringing, like I got a pile of new ones take one please
Yeah. Things are starting to get expensive. Phillips heads are like flat heads to me. I love the Star Bits. Good talking to ya. Thanks for the comment
what transition would you use when you have laminate in the hallway and carpet in the bedroom . Thank you
I would use a carpet reducer. czcams.com/video/GIb6NQMx0pA/video.html. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I have a 1 inch drop and don't want that high of a transition. What are your thoughts on just laying down some 3/4 OSB and then I would have a nicer transition.
Hmm. Yes 1" is pretty high if you are going to do a full tear out and flooring and price is not an issue then laying 3/4 OSB should be fine however if you're wanting to save a little bit of cash you can probably buy a transition that is a little wider or you can custom make one that doesn't make that drop so Extreme. Hope that helps thanks for the question
YOUFLOOR Flooring tips and tricks do you have a type of transition I can buy? I also have a 1 inch hardwood floor height different that I’m trying to transition as smoothly as possible. Thanks.
I found some things online if you want to go message me on fb. Look up z construction LLC send me a message and I'll send you some info I found
Very informative. Thank you.
What do I do when I install laminate and I come to an exterior door? I assume that I keep the 3/8" gap. Should I install a transition piece or somehow attach a quarter-round? Thank you.
Yes sir either one will work. I prefer the 1/4 round. But your floor5will need to notched just right so there is a small expansion gap at the door but the floor still slides under the jambs with no gap
Thatnk you, I have a question im going to do my stairs soon. Not sure what to do with the top step because my upstairs is carpet? Thank you
In this case. If it were me I would run the last riser but would roll the carpet at the top over the stair nose and staple it then install the riser so the carpet is tucked against the riser for a clean finish. But if you are ever planning on flooring the top, make sure the riser is out enuff to allow for a wood stair nose later. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR would this work for the top floor being linoleum flooring? Tucking it behind the last riser?
I've never seen that usually I see a metal stair nose. It's L shaped looking at it from the end.
@@YOUFLOOR i was think the samething,but I tried that on the first step and had trip some off the riser long ways and when I put the stair nose on I had the riser not covering by the stair nose. I had to go back and cut all the stair nose off then add a small piece of wood to make it level with the floor. Its alot of work. 5 more steps to do.
Yep. Oh wow. That stinks. So sorry to hear you went through all that but honestly those mistakes are what makes us experts in the long run. Check out the stair video I put out yesterday. I addressed that very issue on a diagram. Took forever to put together. But I wanted it to be super easy to understand. You gotta run the risers all the way up flush with the top of the treads. Thanks for the comment.
Hello hopefully you can answer me ,I'm planning to install laminate flooring around my wardrobe and I have no clue how to join the laminate floor with it ...please can u guide me
Are you trying to click into an existing floor or are you just trying to line the new floor up with another in a hallway or adjoining room. Or is it a total different floor than the other
What if it’s on cement subfloor? Just use cement screws for the metal piece?
You could but he's another alternative czcams.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/video.html
use slow speed on that drill but it wont strip them screw heads as fast
How you in the woods doing this. LOL
Lol, it's just the side of my house.
hey brother...try predrilling b4 screwing the channel down
@805 VIDEO GROUP thanks for the tip!
Cardboard
Yes sir. Use can also use the black plastic strip they send with the transition. 2 different ways
Can’t even see what you are doing
Which part. I got pretty close up on all examples but I'd be glad to address any questions you may have
One day we’re going to teach you how to use a drill
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣yeah someone told me once to set the drill at low speed. But it's an impact drill. Only one speed. Thanks for the comment
dude, you need the right size screw tip!
Got one now. Thanks for the tip
Maybe you could've got a little farther away 😂
😁
Screwed it to the table haha
🤣
where the F is this guy shooting this video.... in the swamps? do they have dirt floors there still? seems like he knows his chit tho... lol
😂😂😂Yeah I was mixing it up a little. That's the woods on the other side of my house. Thanks for the comment.