Installing Pergo 4 in 1 Transitions On Concrete With NO SCREWS!!
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- čas přidán 17. 07. 2024
- In this video, I go over installing Pergo 4 in 1 transitions on concrete with no screws. When trying to install the metal U track they send with the transitions, its not always easy to lineup the whole perfect so that your transition is tight against the granite and tight against the other miters. Rather than fight it, I like to use a urethane glue, hot glue, and C A glue to get the job done. This will ensure that my transition will be tight at the miters and against the tile or hearth with maximum hold. Hope you enjoy the video!
Thank you to all the subscribers and supporters of this channel!
Tools You May Need: (affiliate links below)
Angle Finder
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
CA Glue
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Laminate Cutter
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Speed Square
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Nail Puller (cats paw)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Pry Bar
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Hammer
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Tape Measure
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Tin Snips
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
White Putty
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Dark Walnut Putty
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I will receive a small commission (at no extra cost to you of course). This helps support the channel and allows me to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for your support!
I've been pulling my hair out (and wasting money) trying to install the way the instructions tell you to. This is SO MUCH BETTER!
Thank you thank you thank you
You got it nate. Thanks for the comment
Very clear instructions and details are shown to the core. Thanks.
Thanks glad to hear
Work crocs…love it
Yeah, I miss them. I wear sketchers with no laces now. I love being able to take them on and off quickly when entering a customer's house. Thanks for the comment Austin
Brother, your and “Sothatshowyoudothat” channels have been instrumental in facilitating the installation of my flooring project and giving me confidence to do some jobs for others to make a few $$$. Cannot Pray enough for you two and your families!! Be Blessed and THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND INSTRUCTIONAL EFFORTS AND VIDEOS!!! Have a Blessed Holiday Season!!
Yes sir Joe seams like a pretty good guy. Thanks for the kind words and I'm glad you're able to make some extra cash with your new talents. Bless you and have a Merry Christmas and and awesome 2023 BTW If you haven't signed up for the free tool giveaway. Check out my channel for details
Love the CA glue/accelerant trick on the mitred corners
Only way to go. 👊 thanks for the comment
Looks nice!
Love the dubstep
Loved your videos. We installed our own wood floors and you helped us through it with your videos! You are awesome.
Well thank you so much. Glad to hear. Hope you enjoy it for years to come
Thank you for this video! Just the info I needed to finish my floor! Drilling into the concrete made me nervous.
Awesome! Perfect for what I'm going to be doing!!
I have been looking for a video to help me finish up my flooring but couldn't quite figure out how to install the transition on concrete without drilling holes. Thank you for the very informative and step by step process.
You got it, Amber. Good luck. Thanks for the comment
Phenomenal! So incredibly helpful! Thank you very much!
You got it. Thanks for the comment
Love your channel! Thanks for sharing your talent.
You're welcome. And thank you so much for the comment
👍thanks for the video
Thank you, you are the only one I've found with this solution. 👍
Seems that way to me too. Hope he can help my situation.
Finally found the answer to my needed work. thank you!!!!!
Right on, Estela. Thanks for the comment
This video shows exactly what I needed to know! Thanks!
Awesome! Glad to help. Thanks for the comment
Great video! Much appreciated!
You got it, Rick. Thanks for
The comment
Thanks a heap for sharing the tips.
You got it Yan. Thanks for the comment
Just what I was looking for. Will try this tmmrw thanks again buddy
Good luck. You got this.💪👍
@@YOUFLOOR 100
Dude! Rockin commentary and voice over. Was a pleasure to watch. Used all your tips. Now, I'M the pro! Lol. Subscribed. Make more stuff man!!
THAT'S AWESOME. MADE ME SMILE. Thanks for the kind words. You rock!! Thanks for the comment
GREAT VIDEO! MUCH EASIER THAN THE SCREW DOWN METHOD
Ty sir
Nice!
@Trina Nestor 😀 Thanks for the comment!
Good video man! Thanks for the tips
Thanks buddy. No problem
@@YOUFLOOR now I just have to figure out how to do one like that with the concrete and with carpet 😂
Pl 3x can be your best friend for gluing down transitions
Nice
Thanks
Great, thanks and question to anybody that might be able to help.
I installed 2 on laminate flooring. One floor was slightly higher than other, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch. I used the one with metal chanel which I glued to concrete floor and just pushed the transition piece. After one day of drying and removing weights, the transition pieces move a little when stepping on them.
Was I suppossed to glue them to the metal chanel?
Should I remove them and add glue/silicon?
Or is it normal that they move a little?
First time I did a surround I cut the metal track at 45 degree an after finishing It occurred to me that was really a wasted step , then I just figured whom ever replaces with whatever the next greatest floor covering will think Damn when they see it 🤔🤣🤷♂️
🤣🤣
I like you crocs
Ty me too👊
Thank you 👍
Thank you
Really enjoy the detailed demo video!!! Let me ask a couple of quick questions qbout the Loctite and trim channel: For Pergo Outlast+, don't you still need to add the 3/8" foam strip between the U-channel and the flooring? Also, when putting down the Loctite, don't you have to be cautious about the glue spreading to and bonding with the flooring material and inhibiting its expansion? Thanks!!
Hey Dave, thanks for the question. I like to put silicone on both sides right up against the flooring. This builds a dam for the lock light so it doesn't encroach on to the flooring. 100 % silicone is
Flexable and should allow the flooring to still expand and contract. I don't use the foam if I am gluing a transition down. Hope that helps.
@@YOUFLOOR Good enough, just getting ready for a big job that will butt against several thresholds/transitions and don't want to mess up the warranty. Thanks again!!
Great video sir, you have mention at the beginning of the video already, but just to be sure when I make a trip to the store to grab the right product, what's the molding at the fire place call by the way?
Those are going to be called transitions. If you are setting g it on the new flooring and picture framing around you hearth (butting g up against it) Then I would get T molds. But if you are lipping up on the hearth and going down to the flooring then I would go with a multi purpose reducer. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR thank you very much
Looks Awesome, The guy 20 years from now will be Screaming at you, lol.
Ha yep. Gonna be hard to pull that one up
Great video. I was looking for your kind of video because I don't want to drill into my concrete. I'm surprised you didn't use an oscillator at the door jamb versus you trimming away at the molding? Why did you choose to trim the molding?
Well I figure when the customers eventually sell their house, one of the 1st things they do is change the flooring so I try not to damage the trim incase a different style floor is laid in they won't have to repair trim. Plus, the guy who taught me did it that way. So I've just always done it that way. . It's not that big a deal if doing lvp or laminate. But if you're installing hardwood, that could be an issue later. Thanks for the question
From the front door to the tile floor and both are pretty much already level and because of the door I cannot have anything sticking up anything higher than the floor other than a hair I just have to fill up the gap which is like a half inch deep 2 in wide
Wow that sounds like a tuff one. Would you mind sending me a couple pics. I can at least take a look and give suggestions as to what I would do. Youfloor.net@gmail.com
Hello. I have a Simple Solutions Transition piece that was installed between tile and the wood floor. It was installed with globs of glue, but from what I can tell, without the metal u shape channel. So it is glued directly to the concrete... So, now the top piece has torn apart leaving what was glued stuck... so what are your suggestions on how to remove the adhesive that was used (it's super hard) and the part of the transition that is still stuck in the gap without damaging the tile or the wood floor, so that I can install a new one? I've thought about a heat gun to soften to try and loosen the adhesive, I've thought about just chiseling it out or trying an oscillating tool... Do you have any suggestions. Thanks
I experience this all the time unfortunately there is no chemicals that will soften it up. I just use a flat head screwdriver and a chisel.by getting under the glue and tapping with a hammer, it should come out fairly easy. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
My hardwood floor is higher then tile , .25 in to .75”.. what type transaction should I get? I bought finium 4 in 1 transition , not sure how to use it..
With each transition package there should be a small piece of cardboard with instructions for assembly. If it's only a 1/4 inch I probably would use a t mold and then pad it up if needed. Anything over a 1/2 inch drop make the slope to steep for a t mold in my opinion. For that I would go with a reducer. I transition up to a 3/4inch drop with that. Any thing higher would need to be wide so not a big drop or use a stair nose if we get too high. Some of those transition come with a little cutting tool and you just make what you need. Some come if part that you have to assemble(not a fan of those) be careful the edges are sharp on either one. Can cut you. Terrible paper cut hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I Could only find T-Mold transition that matched my laminate. So, going with T-Mold as transition from laminate to carpet under door. I really liked the T-Mold method (laminate to carpet) you presented in another video. I Kinda like the look better, as well. There is one difference - in the other video, it was a wood-floor, so you screwed down the U-channel, first. Then you hammered in the T-Mold. I have a cement floor and not fond of drilling holes into the floor. So, I am assuming you can still use PL-3 glue, as shown in this video. Looks like I will first have to attach the T-Mold with the U-Channel as one unit, then push down on the glue. Will that work? Any issues? And, your videos are super helpful (Awesome Dude!) - Thanks!!!
If I have to put down a 4 in 1, that needs to be a reducer or carpet transition. I will install the metal track and install all is one. However, if you are just installing A T Mold. You can skip
This step , as long as you put a consistent weight all the way across to hold it down. For me, the u channel just helps to how the transition straight and stiff for laying on the squishy carpet. By the way, I like the t mold to carpet look too. Nice transition. Good luck brotha👊
Hi, omg, my vinyl plank flooring in my kitchen was put down over the existing floor, causing a major lip of about 1 inch and a quarter maybe. I'm also having the vinyl plank flooring put into my living room next to the kitchen. What would be the best way to transition between the two rooms. So worried about this. I don't want to have to raise the rest of the house up to my kitchen. Thanks.
czcams.com/video/_oTUB9EM3a8/video.html. Check this video out. See if it helps
Maybe a dumb question, but I was planning on gluing down this type of transition to join a laminate and a LVT glue-down floor. I realized I would have to stop the moisture barrier right at the metal track. Is there any reason I would have to worry about moisture under the t-mold reducer if it's glued down instead of screwed over the top of a moisture barrier?
@Brandon Mc No sir that should be fine. The glue acts as the moisture barrier. Tks for the question.
@@YOUFLOOR Oh, that's right. I forgot about that. If you needed to use the spacer that comes with this kit, would you be able to glue it to the metal strip and the concrete as well, or would you be better using a wood shim of some sort?
@Brandon Mc yes you can glue them both down. Make sure to use a urethane glue it binds good to both materials. Tks for the question.
I just need one of those cutting tools cos can't cut mine 🙄
does the adhesiver become hard once it dried up? Then wouldn't this big of a batch stop things from expanding?
Never get the glue close to the floating floor. Use silicone as a barrier
Do u mind telling me what’s the tube glue name u used near the fire place, not the CA the other one please
Sure. It's one of my favorite glues. It's called pl 3x made by Loctite amzn.to/3JQBHSF. I included a link to help you find it easily. They sell the small tunes as well
What type of glue did you use for the u channel?
Pl with the 3x on it. It a urethane glue. Little more pricier than liquid nails. But sticks like concrete once it sets up. Thanks for the question
What do you do if your transition is between two floating floors and the subfloor is concrete? How do you allow it to expand
Generally transitions of any kind are about 1and 3/4 inches to 2 inches wide. You're going to need to leave about a one to one an a quarter inch gap between floors. Then I use pl 3x made by lock tight to glue the transition down. Try to keep the glue contained to the center so your flooring doesn't expand into the glue. Glue tape and weights to hold it down or I use hot glue to hold in place while my pl 3x sets up. Usually takes a couple hours.
I can’t seem to find the Loctite glue you’re using on the subfloor. Will liquid nails work as well?
@Angel Chimellis Liquid nails will not work. You’re glue needs to have urethane in it. Home Depot and Lowes both carry the glue I’m using! You can also use amazon. I will get you a link! amzn.to/3yJ5QNn
Will this technique work on a laminate to laminate transition? What do I need to do differently, if anything?
Should work?You really should not have to do much of anything different. Just make sure you have enough room for expansion. Because you're glue. Globs may need to be a little bit taller to reach the bottom part of the transition. Sometimes, I will put glue down on the floor and then put my transition down and see where the glue touches it and add some glue to the actual transition so that it marries the other glue glob. Then, you can either tape it or set some weights on it until the glue dries. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
@@YOUFLOORThanks!
Hi Zenon, can you do this from a laminate to carpet transition?
I have done this before with carpet. You will need to make sure to glue down a carpet reducer. And it wouldn't hurt to put some glue under the tack strip for extra hold. Place the tack strip about 1/4 inch away from transition leaving a small gap all the way across the door for tucking the carpet. Then I would let the transition glue set up for an hour. After that it can be cut to fit and then kicked over the tack strip and tuck it. I have a video called installing transitions from carpet to laminate. Check that out for reference. It's pretty much what I just explained to you but with a visual. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thank you so much!
Hey I want to lay a lock in laminate flooring over my existing ceramic tile floor however one or two of of the tiles are slightly uneven and the grout around them is a little loose when I step on it is there anything I can do to smooth those high places down evenly? will padding help if you have had experience with this I would love to hear
There are a number of things you could do but the best most effective is to skim coat it with a floor patch. If there is a spot that is to high you could grind it down flat 1st then patch it. Make sure to remove any loose grout. If it start coming up under your floor it could make crunching sounds when you walk on the new floor. The most cost effective method for small dips is to build it up in layers with felt paper. Use a 6 foot strait edge and fill in any low spots with the felt. Make sure to tape it down so it doesn't move over time. It is thin, but just dense enuff to help with dips if you build it up inlayers. hope that help. And thanks for the question. It helps with future video ideas
@@YOUFLOOR thanks man although I did not understand any of that LOL hopefully you can do a video showing all of this really soon keep up the great work man
@@YOUFLOOR thank you what would I use to grind it down with hopefully you can do a video showing all of this really soon. love your videos keep up the good work man
Thanks so much for the kind words. If you don't have a grinder you can rent one from home depot or Any tool rental place for that matter. The only downside to grinding concrete is you will have to plastic everything off because it can get pretty dusty. But if you want the hump gone there really is no other way.
Where did you purchase the transition strips? I can’t seem to find pergo brand ones anywhere.
You can find them at home depot and lowes. Both carry pergo products. Google pergo 4 in1 transitions and you'll get a hit. Hope that helps.
Do I need backer rod in the transition if so what side
You don’t have to use the backer rod in the transition but be sure to put silicone down both sides of the transitions to seal it to the floor. Hope that helps.
Finishing floors to sell my house.
Two transitions in question.
First, vinyl plank to tile 3/4 inch drop.
Second, vinyl plank to old hardwood 1 inch drop.
Any advice is highly appreciated.
I'll be honest. You should go to my channel and go to playlist. Click ok n transitions. I have made a video for almost every situation. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Wait. The silicone that seals the laminate for water leaks will not hold down the laminate and prevent it from expanding/movement??
No. Silicone is flexable
@@YOUFLOOR thank you! I have another question that I'm not sure if it's gonna be an issue, but I think it is for me. I installed laminate next to tile, and the tile runs flat next to the laminate except for about 2 feet in the middle of the 15 feet run, where I think the tile is caved in?? I ordered some flat transitions because I thought it was flat all the way through and I just recently noticed those 2 feet where the laminate is a bit higher than the tile.
Do you think that's gonna be a problem?? And have any tips on what to do there???
@tripas421 send me a couple pics of your issue so I can get a visual. Youfloor.net@gmail.com
I can probably give you some kind of tip! I will be looking for your pics!
Hi I just emailed you :)) thankssss
Why do you use the metal tracks if you don't screw them to neither concrete or wood floor?
I am very curious, most floor installers don't use the metal track.
I use it for two reasons. One, it helps to hold the transition in one piece. And also it makes the transition a little stiffer, so when someone steps on , it doesn't break. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Great, I will use it tomorrow then. Gracias.
If you caulk the edge of the laminate, will it still be able to expand?
Yes sir. I asked that same question during the installation class we took. As long as you use 100% silicone it is flexible and stretches just enuff to allow for expansion as long as you leave a big enuff gap. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR that’s good to know. Next to bath tubs and showers this would be great.
I believe it even says bath and shower on the label 😁
Is it nessasary to attach metal if your are just gluing it ?
It is not necessary. But I would use a urethane glue like pl 3x if you are gluing it to concrete. Good questions . Thanks
How long does it stay for?
Until you pull it up. It's pretty much there for life once ot sets up
Do you put the silicone on the wood side? Or only on the tile and stone side?
@pmexplore You definitely need it on the wood side as it needs to stop any water from going underneath the wood floor. You don't have to put it on the tile side but you can if you'd like. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
@@YOUFLOOR
Thanks that give a bit more clarity. Thank you for your fast response.
Does putting silicone like this impact the expansion of the floors?
No sit. If you read it. You will see that the silicone is flexable and will allow the floor to to still move. Btw expansion sounds drastic but. it really is not a lot of movement . Thanks for the comments
How does it expand if you just put silicon right at the laminate?
Silicone is flexable and still allows the floor to move. I like to use this to create a dam so the glue doesn't get anywhere near my flooring. When we were taught how to seal the perimeter at H.D. I had the same concerns about expansion using silicone. I was assured that silicone is safe as it flexes with the movement of the floor. So I've been doing that for over 10 years and so far I've had great results. Thanks for the question.
@@YOUFLOOR how about caulk between baseboard and laminate? does it stop it from expanding? does the plank expand just the lower layer or the top layer as well? I saw some acrylic+silicon caulk but my instruction told me not get acrylic sealant but silicon sealant so not sure if those mix okay
Do they have those 2 in wide
I'm not sure if they come in just two inches but I belive they have a style that has multiple widths, and the smallest is around 3 inches . Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Thank you
What kind of transition did you use to picture frame the fireplace. A t molding or reducer ?
In this case I used a reducer. But you can use a t mold. You just need to cut some 1/4 wide strips and glue them against the fire place so that the t mold has something to stop it tipping down on the fireplace side. Kinda like it you were installing a t molding between 2 laminate floors. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
why are you installing the metal rail to the door bar before putting the doorbar to the floor? If you were going to install the doorbar with adhesive alone, you'd leave out the metal rail.
The screwholes in the rail are for you to drill into the floor (in cases of concrete, use wallplugs) and secure the rail which in turn allows you to tap the doorbar down with gentle hammer motions.
Great questions. Well it is not always easy to get that hole just right for every anchor. Almost always the bit wabbles a little to much and the hole is off. Then you have to start over. Also the metal U Channel (metal rail ) sits a little low sometimes and the transition won't reach the track. On wood floors you can pad it up before you attach it. But in concrete that would be a lot of work which may not even pan out. So if I attach the metal strip to the bottom 1st of all it keeps the transition stiff and straight as apposed to no metal. Also it keeps my cardboard transition from touching the ground. It allows me to glue big pieces together (like the fireplace) and the weight helps hold itself down and lastly I used a urethane glue and I can build my globs up enuff to catch the transition then mycardboard or wood isn't directly on the concrete. Hope that answered your question. Thanks for the comment. Peace
@@YOUFLOOR I totally agree… son in law an daughter having a hard time with the channel sitting too low…it’s been an on goin problem…
Yes on concrete it can be a challenge to build up the glue so it will reach the transition. In some cases ive had to glue on the concrete and the bottom of the transition. If you want to try the screw and drill meathod, pergo sends out a black plastic strip with the metal u channel. It can be placed under the metal to raise it up. But it will take some persition to line up the holes. Hope that helps
@@YOUFLOOR son in law used the method you mentioned but not luck
Sorry to hear this. Wish I could come help. Looks like glue and tape are your only option
You didn’t show how to use transition strip’s connecting laminate flooring to raised tile flooring.. son in law an daughter been working on it but didn’t work.. the grey transitions are to flimsy when carefully pulling up they pulled apart.. having a difficult time with the pergo transitions to work…
Check through my videos . I have tried to cover ever situation. See if this video helps thanks for the question. czcams.com/video/vxBt6aL110M/video.html
@@YOUFLOOR this video didn’t show anything about pergo transition stripes?
Transitions are usually wider than the door thickness there is a notch to cut in the transition but it should be hidden under the door when closed. The notch should not appear visible on the other side as shown here @9:27 (door is on the tile side). Also second thing, the transition should ideally stop in alignement with the door tenon edge. It nearly does here but on the wrong side of the tenon ! Not your fault since the tiler stopped too far. But it is not his fault, he needs to be told where to stop tiling and that depends on the transition you will use. Before starting to tile you should already know what transition you will use and account for 1/8" silicon bead between the tile end and the transition. Your sillicon bead look s too small you didn't leave enough gap. Also for aesthetics the gap should be same as tiles spacing. Overal grade for your work : 4/10
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This is wrong. Flooring is never permanent especially laminate. Glueing transitions to the cement means you or the next owner will have to do difficult demolition to remove the transition without damaging the tiles to replace the laminate (and swear at you).
You've been through that yourself for a different reason (expansion gap too narrow) so you should know better than using glue. Glue is the worst because no flooring is forever (except some tile).
Floor transitions should be flush. Raised transitions are for mobile homes and trailer parks. You will NEVER see a raised transition in a multimillion dollar house
And you will never see lvp or laminate in a multimillion dollar house. That's why they make transitions. For us poor people. Thanks for your input