Great video. I just finished laying laminate in my master bedroom. First time I've done flooring. Will be doing LVP strips & base boards next. First video I've come across that 1) uses the exact LVP strips I have & 2) broke it down clearly. Thanks & keep up the great content. 👍
I was unsure of this video due to the shoes, the bracelets and the inability to hold a screwdriver/chisel correctly, but there was some good advice and it looks like he did a good job.
This was so useful, I am reflooring my RV (Carpet to Vinyl plank) and had a transition that was carpet to planking, this was super useful and down to earth.
I had this exact same predicament. Thanks for helping me figure out how to address it. When we had our bathroom remodeled we had tile installed and the contractor must have built up the floor to make it up to code for tile. Once I ripped up the carpet today to lay down the laminate floor I saw the height difference and was at a loss. The contractor used a piece of 1/4 round as a transition from the tile to the carpet. Now my job will look professional. Once again thank you so so much.
Wow, I have been watching your videos for a couple weeks now and I have say - best teaching. Never done it before and I am now on to the transitions and quarter molding, but you have done a very good job teaching this rookie. Feeling confident - not cocky, but confident now, hahaha. You sir, are not wasting your talent. Thanks for sharing!
@David Gordon Wow man thank you! That really means a lot. People like you are the inspiration for my channel. I love seeing DIYers get out of their comfort zone and come out the other side victorious. Good luck on the rest of your project and thanks for the comment!
Anyone following this video and still having issues, your metal track likely bent in on the sides at the hardware store. Use channel locks to ease the sides out so both prices can fit inside the channel. Thanks for the tip to use the rubber to build the floor up!
Again you make a great how-to video! You give me hope that I will be able to find a solution to all my “issues” with transitioning. I had someone install my Pergo Outlast without thinking about transitions.. so all are different.. it was a friend that was staying at my Nashville home for free so he did it to try to repay me by installing the flooring. He did a good job everywhere but transitions. I will just have to figure them all out. Your videos really help me get the confidence to figure it out. I still how to do the stairs and the transitions only things left. I think i am going to get the Cap-a-tread for the stairs for ease of installation and buy these transitions you used here..
Well, unlike most of my viewers. You are not to far out. I live in Mt. Juliet. So if we need to come by and make a video. And fix some things. It's not too far away. We work in all surrounding areas. Thanks for the comment. Good luck on your project. And let me know if you need any assistance.
Thanks for the tip on the metal track after putting screws in. I’m wrestling with one now that’s 92” and broke lvp transition reducer when trying to tap it in the track
Thank you for posting these videos. They are very informative. I was curios about waterproofing the pergo laminate floor I will be installing. Do you need to backer rod and silicone under the transitions?
Absolutely. If you are using a metal track, you can put it in the center of the gap.And put your backer rod on both sides of the track and squirt.A little silicone right on top of the foam To seal it up. Hope that helps thanks for the question
First off you're the man. Your quarter round vids helped me immensely. I even cut those fancy returns. I need some serious advice though on how to cover ugly concrete under a marble kind of door sill. It's like 2 or 3 inches high though. Just did the lifeproof flooring and it looks great but that concrete under the door is just horrible. Any advice brother? 🙏🙏🙏
@Brian Caulfield Thanks so much for the question. If you could send me a pic or 2 that would be great. You can email me at YouFloor.net@gmail.com Thanks for the question!
My Laminate to Tile elevations have been money...... and I've only used the top piece or T piece (I would call it).... a little silicone and it hasn't moved.... I've had no need to snap it in, to the track they provide in the package.......
Very good videos. I learned a lot. I plan to use HD Lifeproof LVP over existing tile and transition to concrete slab. There will be a 3/4" gap to take care. Wondering is this 4 in 1 reducer good for the transition? If not, I'll very much appreciate a suggestion. Thanks!
They should work. Not my favorite but they are universal. Also if you have a floor and decor near you they have a whole wall of transition to choose from. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I see that you used a brad nailer to secure the piece of wood to the actual floor. I have foundation under my laminate. How would you secure the spacer in that situation? Thank you for this vid.
I would use a combination of PL 3X AND A FEW DROPS OF HOT GLUE TO HOLD IT DOWN WHILE THE PL 3X CURES. THIS WAT YOU CAN GLUE THE TRANSITION ON THE SAME DAY. HOPE THAT HELPS. THANKS FOR THE QUESTION
What depth should the top of the U channel be from the top level of the laminate plank? I guess what I am trying to say is does that 1/4 " T part of the transition piece have to be fully into the U channel?
I believe the top should be as close to the top of the flooring as possible. It doesn't have to be flush with top bit as long as it will grab. Try a couple of test pieces about 2 or 3 inches long to make sure it will sit properly. Then you can see it from the side view and know you're good. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I currently have a problem trying to get a reduced or transition between porcelain bathroom and vinyl plank flooring and in the kitchen from tile to vinyl plank. Two contractors haven’t been able to figure it out and I don’t know what to do. We also bought the t mold which doesn’t seem to work either. What should I do. Thanks
Why would you not glue the front smaller bullnose reducer attachment onto the larger t-strip? Does the metal track lock it in into place? If not, I would think that little edge strip would start to kick out over time after a lot of foot traffic
I usually do and I explained that in my other videos. But I wanted to do this one exactly According to the directions. And yes the metal strip does lock them in. But you're right. Gluing them always makes it look better. And also Touching up the white strip on the smaller piece with a touch up marker. Thanks for the question. Good stuff
They sure can be a pain sometimes. Especially if they are too low. They will need to be built up in that case. But when they are on two even surface (like laminate to laminate) I usually start on Ono side and hold it up at a 35 to 40 degree angle push down into the u c hannel and slide it over to the casing. Once one side grabs then you can work your way across the t mold with a rubber mallet. I use a Smoot face hammer sometimes. Just got to be careful not to dent the transition. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
How did you cover the white line between the pieces of the reducer as I have the same problem? I see that it is gone by the end of your video. I don't notice the line on other videos. It looks bad and cheap.
Awesome, great, great, great! Hey, question for you, how would you transition from a curbless shower floor to LVP in the bathroom floor (or would you?)?
As long as the drop is pretty close I would scribe it and seal it up with silicone. Check out my latest short. I show how to scribe against a tub. Thanks for the question. Hope that helps
Fantastic video! At the beginning when you measured, the whole thing was a 1/2” drop from the tile to the laminate. What do you do if the drop on the left side is higher than the drop from the right side?
Well that depends on how drastic of a difference it is. If it's like 1/4 inch or less it should lay down in the track just fine and work with the difference. If it's more... well you cant lower the lower floor but if your upper floor is laminate, then I would try to put some shims under the low side of the upper floor to raise it slightly more even with the high side of the upper floor then you can try to install the transition and split the difference. Hope that helps. Thank you for the question.
@@YOUFLOOR thanks for the reply! Unfortunately, the upper floor was already-finished tile. I used your technique (from another of your videos) of using the plastic that came with the metal track. I put it underneath just the part of the metal track on the larger-offset end. It isn’t completely perfect, and there is a small gap underneath the molding on the larger offset end, but it’s not very noticeable. Thanks again for the reply! Love your videos.
At 7:30 you're securing the thin strip to build up the floor for the transition. Is that a numatic pin nailer? Is that shooting a nail into the concrete under the board strip?
No, that is a wood floor it just has a little bit of thin set spread over it from the tile. It makes it look like it's a concrete floor but it's actually wood.
@JoshSpace I wouldn't even use a strip. I would use pl 3x to glue it down. Put 100% silicone against you laminate so the glue doesn't touch it. Want to make sure it can expand. The silicone Is fleaxable. The glue is not
I have wood to bathroom tile. The tile guy did bro use 1/2 cement boards but 1/4 inch. There about 1/4 inch difference. What’s that piece you put underneath t mold?
I usually cut a small strip of flooring about 1/2 inch wide. If it is to low or needs to be more on an angle. I use a thin strip of wood or even cardboard to prop up my little 1/2 inch strip of floor higher in the back before I nail it down. The ne when I attach the u channel it is on a slight angle. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I didn't install any cove mold . And I would never glue anything to a floating floor. It would hender the expansion of the flooring and start causing the floor to buckle. Good question. Thanks for the comment
Really good video. I have a question for you. Does nailing it into the cement really hold good or do you put glue below it to hold better? Seems the nails would bend on the nailer? Thank you
Where I placed the u channel there is no concrete. That's just thinset over spread from the tile installation. If your on concrete you will have to glue it. The subfloor is actually wood. Hope that helps
Great video. I have a concrete floor. Can I glue everything in using glue caulking ? I really prefer not to try to drill holes to put in dowels to hammer in. I'm afraid I'd mess that up. But either way I respect you and would like to hear what you. Thanks
I would use a glue with urethane like pl 3x. Just make sure to leave a gap. Once this stuf spreads out and cures it is like a rock. It will not flex like silicone so leave a good expansion gap and clean up any excess
Your videos are very helpful! Question: I'm using the same Simple Solutions T moulding to conjoin an existing tile floor to Pergo Outlast plus. Fortunately, the tile floor and Pergo floor are of equal height. The issue is the metal track in the channel does not sit flush against the concrete floor and there is a small gap at the bottom. I plan to use Loctite PL instead of drilling the concrete (post-tensioned slab) after watching your video. Would you suggest adding the plastic extension to the bottom of the metal track and placing on top of the PL or will the rubber not adhere to it as well as the metal? Could I just use the metal track w/o the plastic bottom extension and fill the void with PL?
ABSOLUTELY. But, I would put a bead of 100 % silicone on the laminate side and keep the pl as close to the tile as possible . The silicone will flex and still allow the laminate to expand and contract. Plus, it will build a dam from your Pl 3x. That stuff sets up like a rock and will not allow the floor to expand. But it will hold it like nothing else. I promise. I hope that makes sense. THANKS FOR THE Question
Hi , Thanks for posting this video. I'm a novice and I would like to know how do you put down a transition strip when you don't have door casing on each side.... I will be putting down winyl over concrete in the living room and Vinyl over tile in the kitchen...( The kitchen and living room are connected). The kitchen tile is about a half inch higher than the concrete floor...so if I were to place the transition strip down, one side would be adjacent to the wall and the other side would be basically exposed because the tile in the kitchen extend to the very end of the wall... Can you please tell me what I need to do? Again thanks....I have a photo I can send if needed
Lol. I get this a lot on this video. I'm guessing whoever installed the tile spread a thin film of thin set out into the closet when cleaning up. Lots of people think I'm installing on concrete, but it is actually a wood subfloor. Hope that clears things up
It may be a steap drop but it will still work. I am trying to put together a diy video for super high floors. I get this question a lot. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR My client wants to buy this natural limestone tile that is VERY THICK! And it will go next to floating LVP. Is there any other "trick," or is it the same method with the drop getting steeper and steeper?
Well you can not shoot any brad nails through concrete. You need to hold the nail gun o. It's side and shoot through theI quarter round into the baseboard. You have 3/4 plus 3/8 baseboard ( unless you have 3/4 inch trim) and a 1/2 inch of drywall. That equals 1 5/8 inch ( 1 1/2 at most) that leaves about 1/2inch of nail to pierce the bottom plate that runs all the way across the wall. If you are going against a tub or metal sliding door. I use silicone e and hot glue to hold my trim where I can't use nails. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Checkout this video. Towards the end I go over how I spice transitions together. czcams.com/video/nIA0vV3i4vI/video.html. I have another one from last year on long transitions to if you wanna check it. Good luck on your project. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Yes . In the video you'll see where I used c.a. glue to glue them together. Unfortunately if you try to take it up,it may test in 2. Might just have to replace or if it bothers you. You can try using clear silicone on the ends. This will look nice and stop it from sliding. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
Yes, this is a multipurpose transition. So you can use it as a t mold, carpet reducer, or a reducer for laminat to viynl flooring. If you are going from Laminate to Laminate and the surfaces are even, then you would use it as a t mold. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Depending on how wide you transitions are and how much of a drop there is. Most transitions are around 1 & 3/4 wide so I usually go with an inch and a quarter gap. But if the transitions are only an inch and a half wide you'll need to go an inch to inch and an eight. Try to make the flooring on both side flush all the way so theres no issues with gaps. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Well if you are able to use the track then you will have to use a masonry bit to drill down into the concrete. Then set plugs and then install the screws. But if that seams like a lot.. check out this video. It may help. czcams.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/video.html
When you say you notched that to fit under the trim so there isn’t a hole there on the sides what do you mean? The transition strip or the laminate. And how did you do it? Thanks
Not sure if I know what part of the video you are talking about but om the sides I run the floor about 1/4 inch past the door opening and make the track slightly shorter than the transition. Then when you install the transition from door frame to door frame it lips over you flooring. Helps to avoid small hole where the trim is on both sides
I usually picture frame hardwood with flooring. But I use transitions to frame around fireplace. Check out this video. Go to 9:32 to see me frame m e around a fireplace. czcams.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/video.html I glued these down as they were on concrete. You can use this reducer to trim up against a exterior door. If you get board . 2 videos ago I explained this very method. Just go to my channel and go to videos. 2nd one down. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Some transitions come with spacers. The pergo 4 in 1 comes with a black plastic strip. You can place.the u channel inside of it to build it up a little or flip it over and screw it down on top if you have a big drop. Hope that helps Thanks n ks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thank you! I wish you had an email address posted as I have another flooring question that home depot (where I purchased my laminate flooring) hasn't answered.
@@YOUFLOOR sorry, I meant to say I dont have any drill that will be able to drill into concrete. Would i be able to use construction adhesive and glue everything down to achieve the same results?
I have glued transitions down before but mostly on concrete. You can shoot some 2 inch brad nails through it and putty the holes. But Inwould still put some silicone underneath to hold in place. I've seen many transitions come loos with just brad nails. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
When I saw him get a screwdriver to chip away the grout I knew I was at the right place...🙄🙄 I'm just wondering why when they laid the tile if they knew they had to put a transition there didn't they just cleaned the edge while the grout was wet instead of having to chip it and risk chipping the tile or would that make too much sense
@@YOUFLOOR Did you ever make this video? We are thinking we'll have to let go of this dream tile because it is too thick. But, if there is a solution . . . .
Just get to it...all these Tubers that like long and, sometimes, fancy intros are pure irritation and a waste of bandwidth! Just get into it. Aside from the useless intro, t his was very informative for me. Thanks.
Man, I do appreciate the view, and I'm glad you found value out of it ,but I feel like sometimes some things are better left unsaid. you're watching a video I made a year ago. When I was still learning.if you'll go look at my last video, you would see that I got rid of all that stuff. Thanks for the tips. I hope to see you on the next one
I didn't get something like you nail wood strip with nail gun how did that nail went through concrete floor? Don't get me wrong but I tried with nail gun and nail bent.
Where I placed the u channel there is no concrete. That's just thinset over spread from the tile installation. If your on concrete you will have to glue it. The subfloor is actually wood. Hope that helps
Check this video out it will give you a good idea of how to attach it. However with a one inch drop you may have to glue a shim all the way across to build it up and then glue the transition set up to that. It you need it done in one day you can use concrete screws to to attach your shim. And by shim I mean a piece of wood about 1/2 wide minimum (usually the width of the u channel) by the thickness you need by the width of the door. Usually around 28 or 30 inches for a bathroom. Hope thar makes sense. If not let me know. Could make for a good video
Ok this guy does it right from over explaining to extra camera angles not to mention a pleasant vocal tone. Great video
Thanks man. See ya on the next one
@@YOUFLOOR just installed a transition today thanks to this video
Well that is awesome 👌 accomplished. Thanks for the comment
Yes had to get this one instead of the normal reducer, this has the extra piece that drops to the floor. Thank you!!
This was great! Thank you. I was racking my brain trying to figure out this exact situation.
Great video. I just finished laying laminate in my master bedroom. First time I've done flooring. Will be doing LVP strips & base boards next. First video I've come across that 1) uses the exact LVP strips I have & 2) broke it down clearly. Thanks & keep up the great content. 👍
Thanks, Ron. Good luck with your projects
I was unsure of this video due to the shoes, the bracelets and the inability to hold a screwdriver/chisel correctly, but there was some good advice and it looks like he did a good job.
Glad you got over your issues so you could enjoy the good stuff.
thank god for these pros. im doing a floor for the first time and i got the same kit and was like wtf when i opened the package 👍👍
I got you bro
“Gotta build it up”. That helped me soo much bro. It stumped me, now I’m ready to tackle it.
Right on brotha
This was so useful, I am reflooring my RV (Carpet to Vinyl plank) and had a transition that was carpet to planking, this was super useful and down to earth.
Thank you so much. I APPRECIATE THAT
Thanks for the post dude!
I’m Doing this EXACT same 4 in 1 tomorrow !!
I was wondering about the height difference but now I see!
Appreciate it!
No problem
Wow this video is what I need !!!! I'm dealing with tile to vinyl and this is the exact instructions I need because there is that height difference
I appreciate you saying that! Let me know how it works out for you.
Trying this for the first time in a couple days for a customer. Thank you for the tips!
@John Holden you got it brotha! Good luck with all your projects!
I had this exact same predicament. Thanks for helping me figure out how to address it. When we had our bathroom remodeled we had tile installed and the contractor must have built up the floor to make it up to code for tile. Once I ripped up the carpet today to lay down the laminate floor I saw the height difference and was at a loss. The contractor used a piece of 1/4 round as a transition from the tile to the carpet. Now my job will look professional. Once again thank you so so much.
So glad to hear this. Glad it worked out for you. Thanks for the comment
Wow, I have been watching your videos for a couple weeks now and I have say - best teaching. Never done it before and I am now on to the transitions and quarter molding, but you have done a very good job teaching this rookie. Feeling confident - not cocky, but confident now, hahaha. You sir, are not wasting your talent. Thanks for sharing!
@David Gordon Wow man thank you! That really means a lot. People like you are the inspiration for my channel. I love seeing DIYers get out of their comfort zone and come out the other side victorious. Good luck on the rest of your project and thanks for the comment!
Anyone following this video and still having issues, your metal track likely bent in on the sides at the hardware store. Use channel locks to ease the sides out so both prices can fit inside the channel.
Thanks for the tip to use the rubber to build the floor up!
Yep
Again you make a great how-to video! You give me hope that I will be able to find a solution to all my “issues” with transitioning. I had someone install my Pergo Outlast without thinking about transitions.. so all are different.. it was a friend that was staying at my Nashville home for free so he did it to try to repay me by installing the flooring. He did a good job everywhere but transitions. I will just have to figure them all out. Your videos really help me get the confidence to figure it out. I still how to do the stairs and the transitions only things left. I think i am going to get the Cap-a-tread for the stairs for ease of installation and buy these transitions you used here..
Well, unlike most of my viewers. You are not to far out. I live in Mt. Juliet. So if we need to come by and make a video. And fix some things. It's not too far away. We work in all surrounding areas. Thanks for the comment. Good luck on your project. And let me know if you need any assistance.
OMG that is exactly my situation, thank you, SO helpful! You are an excellent teacher and explain things perfectly. I'm a fan.
Well thank you so much. Good luck with your project. Thanks for the comment
Super helpful video. Thank you very much for taking time to post this. Much appreciated.
You got it, Chris. Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the instructions. Now I can fix my door reducer.
Right on brotha. Thanks for the comment
helped me immensely
Good directions-n-tips. Even more entertaining when watched at 1.25 speeed!
Ha ha. Awesome. Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the tip on the metal track after putting screws in. I’m wrestling with one now that’s 92” and broke lvp transition reducer when trying to tap it in the track
Thanks for the great videos! First time doing laminate flooring and this transition video was a huge help.
Glad I could help. Thanks for the comment
Thank you for posting these videos. They are very informative. I was curios about waterproofing the pergo laminate floor I will be installing. Do you need to backer rod and silicone under the transitions?
Absolutely. If you are using a metal track, you can put it in the center of the gap.And put your backer rod on both sides of the track and squirt.A little silicone right on top of the foam To seal it up. Hope that helps thanks for the question
Nice camera work, so easy observe your skills
Thank you!
Best video ever!!!
Tks for the comment!
First off you're the man. Your quarter round vids helped me immensely. I even cut those fancy returns. I need some serious advice though on how to cover ugly concrete under a marble kind of door sill. It's like 2 or 3 inches high though. Just did the lifeproof flooring and it looks great but that concrete under the door is just horrible. Any advice brother? 🙏🙏🙏
@Brian Caulfield Thanks so much for the question. If you could send me a pic or 2 that would be great. You can email me at YouFloor.net@gmail.com
Thanks for the question!
Heeeey, looks familiar 😊
My Laminate to Tile elevations have been money...... and I've only used the top piece or T piece (I would call it).... a little silicone and it hasn't moved.... I've had no need to snap it in, to the track they provide in the package.......
Perfect.I have used this method on many jobs where a track would not work. Thanks for sharing
Wow, good video well explain
Thank you
Thanks so much. Appreciate the comment
Just what I needed!! Thank you!!!!
Awesome! glad to hear
In an ideal world, when installing the tiles, where would you stop the tiles edge so that that transition looks good when the door is closed?
Thanks for the instruction. Simply well made.
Well thank you glad to help. Thanks for the comment
Great video! You're the man!
Thanks! I appreciate that. Thanks for the comment
Very good videos. I learned a lot. I plan to use HD Lifeproof LVP over existing tile and transition to concrete slab. There will be a 3/4" gap to take care. Wondering is this 4 in 1 reducer good for the transition? If not, I'll very much appreciate a suggestion. Thanks!
They should work. Not my favorite but they are universal. Also if you have a floor and decor near you they have a whole wall of transition to choose from. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Great video, thanks for helping!
No problem. Thanks for the comment
I see that you used a brad nailer to secure the piece of wood to the actual floor. I have foundation under my laminate. How would you secure the spacer in that situation? Thank you for this vid.
I would use a combination of PL 3X AND A FEW DROPS OF HOT GLUE TO HOLD IT DOWN WHILE THE PL 3X CURES. THIS WAT YOU CAN GLUE THE TRANSITION ON THE SAME DAY. HOPE THAT HELPS. THANKS FOR THE QUESTION
Good tip
THANK YOU SIR🙏‼️🌟
You got it, J. Thanks for the comment
having same issue with a reducer, the tiny shims they included were not good enough, going to have to cut a piece of scrap flooring and use as a shim.
👍 you got this bro
Thanks for the video
No problem. Thanks for the comment
What depth should the top of the U channel be from the top level of the laminate plank? I guess what I am trying to say is does that 1/4 " T part of the transition piece have to be fully into the U channel?
I believe the top should be as close to the top of the flooring as possible. It doesn't have to be flush with top bit as long as it will grab. Try a couple of test pieces about 2 or 3 inches long to make sure it will sit properly. Then you can see it from the side view and know you're good. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I currently have a problem trying to get a reduced or transition between porcelain bathroom and vinyl plank flooring and in the kitchen from tile to vinyl plank. Two contractors haven’t been able to figure it out and I don’t know what to do. We also bought the t mold which doesn’t seem to work either. What should I do. Thanks
Hey Tim would love to see if I can help. Send me a couple pics from different angles, and we'll see what we can come up with. Youfloor.net@gmail.com
Why would you not glue the front smaller bullnose reducer attachment onto the larger t-strip? Does the metal track lock it in into place? If not, I would think that little edge strip would start to kick out over time after a lot of foot traffic
I usually do and I explained that in my other videos. But I wanted to do this one exactly According to the directions. And yes the metal strip does lock them in. But you're right. Gluing them always makes it look better. And also
Touching up the white strip on the smaller piece with a touch up marker. Thanks for the question. Good stuff
Great video as always. One question, why are the T-moldings so difficult to snap into the metal railing and what's the easiest way to get them in?
They sure can be a pain sometimes. Especially if they are too low. They will need to be built up in that case. But when they are on two even surface (like laminate to laminate) I usually start on Ono side and hold it up at a 35 to 40 degree angle push down into the u c hannel and slide it over to the casing. Once one side grabs then you can work your way across the t mold with a rubber mallet. I use a Smoot face hammer sometimes. Just got to be careful not to dent the transition. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
How did you cover the white line between the pieces of the reducer as I have the same problem? I see that it is gone by the end of your video. I don't notice the line on other videos. It looks bad and cheap.
I use a stain pen. Check your local dollar tree. The touch up markers they sell are pretty decent.
Awesome, great, great, great! Hey, question for you, how would you transition from a curbless shower floor to LVP in the bathroom floor (or would you?)?
As long as the drop is pretty close I would scribe it and seal it up with silicone. Check out my latest short. I show how to scribe against a tub. Thanks for the question. Hope that helps
@@YOUFLOOR I checked it out, sweet method my friend!! Many thanks.
Thanks
No problem
Happy New Year 🥂
Same to you!
Fantastic video! At the beginning when you measured, the whole thing was a 1/2” drop from the tile to the laminate. What do you do if the drop on the left side is higher than the drop from the right side?
Well that depends on how drastic of a difference it is. If it's like 1/4 inch or less it should lay down in the track just fine and work with the difference. If it's more... well you cant lower the lower floor but if your upper floor is laminate, then I would try to put some shims under the low side of the upper floor to raise it slightly more even with the high side of the upper floor then you can try to install the transition and split the difference. Hope that helps. Thank you for the question.
@@YOUFLOOR thanks for the reply! Unfortunately, the upper floor was already-finished tile. I used your technique (from another of your videos) of using the plastic that came with the metal track. I put it underneath just the part of the metal track on the larger-offset end. It isn’t completely perfect, and there is a small gap underneath the molding on the larger offset end, but it’s not very noticeable. Thanks again for the reply! Love your videos.
Awesome! Glad it worked out. Thanks for the comments. Keep up the good work
Thank you!!!!
At 7:30 you're securing the thin strip to build up the floor for the transition. Is that a numatic pin nailer? Is that shooting a nail into the concrete under the board strip?
No, that is a wood floor it just has a little bit of thin set spread over it from the tile. It makes it look like it's a concrete floor but it's actually wood.
@@YOUFLOOR ok. How would you secure the strip to the floor if it was concrete? I’m in that situation now.
@JoshSpace I wouldn't even use a strip. I would use pl 3x to glue it down. Put 100% silicone against you laminate so the glue doesn't touch it. Want to make sure it can expand. The silicone Is fleaxable. The glue is not
Your awesome! thanks !
You are just as awesome. Thanks for the comment
Did you forget to list the the affiliate link for the actual reducer?
Thank you.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment
I have wood to bathroom tile. The tile guy did bro use 1/2 cement boards but 1/4 inch. There about 1/4 inch difference. What’s that piece you put underneath t mold?
I usually cut a small strip of flooring about 1/2 inch wide. If it is to low or needs to be more on an angle. I use a thin strip of wood or even cardboard to prop up my little 1/2 inch strip of floor higher in the back before I nail it down. The ne when I attach the u channel it is on a slight angle. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
WHY IS THERE NO GLUE PUT ON THE BOTTOM OF THE COVE MOLDING WHERE IT SITS ON THE FLOOR. WOULDN'T THAT ALLOW DIRT TO CATCH UNDER THE LIP.
I didn't install any cove mold . And I would never glue anything to a floating floor. It would hender the expansion of the flooring and start causing the floor to buckle. Good question. Thanks for the comment
Really good video. I have a question for you. Does nailing it into the cement really hold good or do you put glue below it to hold better? Seems the nails would bend on the nailer? Thank you
Where I placed the u channel there is no concrete. That's just thinset over spread from the tile installation. If your on concrete you will have to glue it. The subfloor is actually wood. Hope that helps
I literally thought I was the only one who caught that.
Great video. I have a concrete floor. Can I glue everything in using glue caulking ?
I really prefer not to try to drill holes to put in dowels to hammer in. I'm afraid I'd mess that up. But either way I respect you and would like to hear what you. Thanks
I would use a glue with urethane like pl 3x. Just make sure to leave a gap. Once this stuf spreads out and cures it is like a rock. It will not flex like silicone so leave a good expansion gap and clean up any excess
@@YOUFLOOR thank you I just watched a couple of your videos and I get it now
Your videos are very helpful!
Question: I'm using the same Simple Solutions T moulding to conjoin an existing tile floor to Pergo Outlast plus. Fortunately, the tile floor and Pergo floor are of equal height. The issue is the metal track in the channel does not sit flush against the concrete floor and there is a small gap at the bottom. I plan to use Loctite PL instead of drilling the concrete (post-tensioned slab) after watching your video.
Would you suggest adding the plastic extension to the bottom of the metal track and placing on top of the PL or will the rubber not adhere to it as well as the metal?
Could I just use the metal track w/o the plastic bottom extension and fill the void with PL?
ABSOLUTELY. But, I would put a bead of 100 % silicone on the laminate side and keep the pl as close to the tile as possible . The silicone will flex and still allow the laminate to expand and contract. Plus, it will build a dam from your Pl 3x. That stuff sets up like a rock and will not allow the floor to expand. But it will hold it like nothing else. I promise. I hope that makes sense. THANKS FOR THE Question
Hi ,
Thanks for posting this video. I'm a novice and I would like to know how do you put down a transition strip when you don't have door casing on each side.... I will be putting down winyl over concrete in the living room and Vinyl over tile in the kitchen...( The kitchen and living room are connected). The kitchen tile is about a half inch higher than the concrete floor...so if I were to place the transition strip down, one side would be adjacent to the wall and the other side would be basically exposed because the tile in the kitchen extend to the very end of the wall... Can you please tell me what I need to do? Again thanks....I have a photo I can send if needed
Great!
So I have between 2-3mm height difference between my tile and flooring what should I use? A reducer or t mold?
I had to check convention l but I would use a t mold. That's not too bad of a drop
You don't need to drill holes for screws? Is that possible? I see you used staple gun but do staples stay in concrete?
Lol. I get this a lot on this video. I'm guessing whoever installed the tile spread a thin film of thin set out into the closet when cleaning up. Lots of people think I'm installing on concrete, but it is actually a wood subfloor. Hope that clears things up
Have about a 3/4 inch difference between LVP and tile. Would this same method work. I have a feeling the reducing strip isn’t big enough. Thoughts?
It may be a steap drop but it will still work. I am trying to put together a diy video for super high floors. I get this question a lot. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR My client wants to buy this natural limestone tile that is VERY THICK! And it will go next to floating LVP. Is there any other "trick," or is it the same method with the drop getting steeper and steeper?
I tried the 18 2 in nails but they didn’t go thru the concrete. They bent. What the size of the gap between tile and vinyl?
Well you can not shoot any brad nails through concrete. You need to hold the nail gun o. It's side and shoot through theI quarter round into the baseboard. You have 3/4 plus 3/8 baseboard ( unless you have 3/4 inch trim) and a 1/2 inch of drywall. That equals 1 5/8 inch ( 1 1/2 at most) that leaves about 1/2inch of nail to pierce the bottom plate that runs all the way across the wall. If you are going against a tub or metal sliding door. I use silicone e and hot glue to hold my trim where I can't use nails. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Same situation but what do I do when the transition is not long enough? It's not a doorway but a living space
Checkout this video. Towards the end I go over how I spice transitions together. czcams.com/video/nIA0vV3i4vI/video.html. I have another one from last year on long transitions to if you wanna check it. Good luck on your project. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
What do you do when the top piece of the transition slides around. Do you have to take out the reducer and put them both back in together?
Yes . In the video you'll see where I used c.a. glue to glue them together. Unfortunately if you try to take it up,it may test in 2. Might just have to replace or if it bothers you. You can try using clear silicone on the ends. This will look nice and stop it from sliding. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
Would it be okay to use one of these types of reducers to go from laminate to laminate flooring?
Yes, this is a multipurpose transition. So you can use it as a t mold, carpet reducer, or a reducer for laminat to viynl flooring. If you are going from Laminate to Laminate and the surfaces are even, then you would use it as a t mold. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thank you sir! Really appreciate you and your very informative videos! Take care and be well. 🤙🤙
👊
So how much of a gap should I have between my tile and flooring before placing the transition
Depending on how wide you transitions are and how much of a drop there is. Most transitions are around 1 & 3/4 wide so I usually go with an inch and a quarter gap. But if the transitions are only an inch and a half wide you'll need to go an inch to inch and an eight. Try to make the flooring on both side flush all the way so theres no issues with gaps. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Having issues screwing the track to my slab floor..recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
Well if you are able to use the track then you will have to use a masonry bit to drill down into the concrete. Then set plugs and then install the screws. But if that seams like a lot.. check out this video. It may help. czcams.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/video.html
Hey its ben stiller.. been wondering what hes been into..
I thought I was steve o
What if you have concrete floor? how can I attach it can you help please
Use pl 3x and glue it down
What size of mail you got on you brad? They went in so easy
We usually use 2 inch 18 gauge brad nails. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR I will try thank you 😁
Good job
Thank you
Excellent 👍🏽
Thank you
@@YOUFLOOR thank you for sharing your knowledge
When you say you notched that to fit under the trim so there isn’t a hole there on the sides what do you mean? The transition strip or the laminate. And how did you do it? Thanks
Not sure if I know what part of the video you are talking about but om the sides I run the floor about 1/4 inch past the door opening and make the track slightly shorter than the transition. Then when you install the transition from door frame to door frame it lips over you flooring. Helps to avoid small hole where the trim is on both sides
Alright, Alright, Alright.
What would you do with a fireplace or a entrance that would need mitres?
I usually picture frame hardwood with flooring. But I use transitions to frame around fireplace. Check out this video. Go to 9:32 to see me frame m e around a fireplace. czcams.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/video.html
I glued these down as they were on concrete. You can use this reducer to trim up against a exterior door. If you get board . 2 videos ago I explained this very method. Just go to my channel and go to videos. 2nd one down. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Thank you!!!
Are you screwing into the concrete slab?
No. That is just wood subfloor with thin set smeared over it. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks!
Do the spacers com with the strips?
Some transitions come with spacers. The pergo 4 in 1 comes with a black plastic strip. You can place.the u channel inside of it to build it up a little or flip it over and screw it down on top if you have a big drop. Hope that helps Thanks n ks for the question
Is it possible to place a new reducer without a nail gun?
Sure you can use the track or glue it down
@@YOUFLOOR Thank you! I wish you had an email address posted as I have another flooring question that home depot (where I purchased my laminate flooring) hasn't answered.
Youfloor.net@gmail.com
@@shannonallen2993 you can email me at youfloor.net@gmail.com
I will be looking for it!
@@YOUFLOOR i have emailed you.
Can you guide me with something related to flooring
Maybe. What's the question?
would a glue down method work here? i dont have a hammer drill
Sorry. A little confused. When did I use a hammer drill
@@YOUFLOOR sorry, I meant to say I dont have any drill that will be able to drill into concrete. Would i be able to use construction adhesive and glue everything down to achieve the same results?
@H T this may help you! Thanks for the question
czcams.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/video.html
Thats a mission is there an easier way like some kind of epoxy thats a little flexible
I have glued transitions down before but mostly on concrete. You can shoot some 2 inch brad nails through it and putty the holes. But Inwould still put some silicone underneath to hold in place. I've seen many transitions come loos with just brad nails. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
When I saw him get a screwdriver to chip away the grout I knew I was at the right place...🙄🙄
I'm just wondering why when they laid the tile if they knew they had to put a transition there didn't they just cleaned the edge while the grout was wet instead of having to chip it and risk chipping the tile or would that make too much sense
Right ! I see you can feel my pain. Thanks for the comment
I have a 2,5 inches gap between laminate and tile. Is there any solution for me??
I am about to make a video on this very subject. Stay tuned
I am looking forward!!!
@@YOUFLOOR Did you ever make this video? We are thinking we'll have to let go of this dream tile because it is too thick. But, if there is a solution . . . .
Nevermind! I found it! Thank you!
Just get to it...all these Tubers that like long and, sometimes, fancy intros are pure irritation and a waste of bandwidth! Just get into it. Aside from the useless intro, t his was very informative for me. Thanks.
Man, I do appreciate the view, and I'm glad you found value out of it ,but I feel like sometimes some things are better left unsaid. you're watching a video I made a year ago. When I was still learning.if you'll go look at my last video, you would see that I got rid of all that stuff. Thanks for the tips. I hope to see you on the next one
How about relax and stfu. There is a fast-forward bar for anyone too impatient, use it
Can you do this technique on a 1in difference
You can try bit that might be too steep. And I would definitely use a reducer as apposed to a t mold. Thanks for the question
Would that cause people to trip and fall?
No
You can also just glue it and fill that in with glue
5:23 😳
OK
👍👊
Using a hammer as a chisel??? Also didn’t anyone teach you how to hold a hammer?
Guess you told me. Ha ha
It’s a screw driver not a chisel
WHY YOU WHISSPERIN
why is he speaking to quietly
I didn't get something like you nail wood strip with nail gun how did that nail went through concrete floor? Don't get me wrong but I tried with nail gun and nail bent.
Where I placed the u channel there is no concrete. That's just thinset over spread from the tile installation. If your on concrete you will have to glue it. The subfloor is actually wood. Hope that helps
Thanks buddy I have similar problem like the it's 1" hight from tile to concrete floor how do I fix that? Pls.help me guide it thanks.
Check this video out it will give you a good idea of how to attach it. However with a one inch drop you may have to glue a shim all the way across to build it up and then glue the transition set up to that. It you need it done in one day you can use concrete screws to to attach your shim. And by shim I mean a piece of wood about 1/2 wide minimum (usually the width of the u channel) by the thickness you need by the width of the door. Usually around 28 or 30 inches for a bathroom. Hope thar makes sense. If not let me know. Could make for a good video
Thanks so much for advising I appreciate.
👍
This materials 4 in 1 comes in combo?
Yes they all come in the pack
Thanks
Best dang video around!! This was perfect sir. You made life easier today. Thank you!
Awesome. Glad to hear it. Thanks for the comment