HOONIGAN 700HP 441" 13.25:1 LS Block & Crank Machining - Part 1
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
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How to Measure Bearing Clearance - • Measuring Bearing Clea...
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Reliability and Torque!! That’s what I’m mostly interested in! Thank You for your videos!!
Totally love these videos. Very informative. So much detail to build a quality and reliable engine for each different application.
Very informative, thanks. It’s interesting to understand the ‘old school’ break-in process versus knocking the peaks off with the hone on modern performance builds. I bet the first oil change oil is much cleaner built the modern way.
You bet!
Awsome video, thanks for all the great information. I didnt realize what the plateau hone Actually did. Thank you for the Knowledge.
Very nice work, Great video, I enjoy watching the channel I learn so much all the time. I'm not really engine guy but I'm trying to learn. I'm more of a fabricator. when you were drilling the crank I noticed there was flex and your drill press. Thanks for sharing
America 🇺🇸
Excellent channel! One of my favourite! Regards from Argentina. It would be great if you could explain the difference between internal balance and external balance!
Lots of things you can do to bulletproof an LS7 style cylinder head - I'm really surprised to see a major step backwards to the inferior LS3 cylinder head. LS3 heads are great... but it's no doubt (as you said) that an LS7 head would be a better performing option. It's not 2010 anymore, and there are many suitable fixes and aftermarket head options for reliable LS7 style heads. Gonna be a cool build, but found that really surprising.
It's also surprising to say no to the dry sump for a road race car. That's exactly the application for a dry sump! I sure understand the simplicity of the wet-sump, but with dry-sump options so easily and readily available for that combination, it's hard to understand that decision.
Can't wait to see how it turns out - always enjoy the content.
Customer did not want to go Dry Sump due to packaging. This engine shouldn't go to much above 7k rpm so it should be solid wet sump. That being said if it ever comes back for a refresh & update I will strongly encourage the customer to go dry sump!
@@JacobVillemain agree that it'll probably be fine. I get how customer input and decisions drives a lot of these combinations - this will be interesting to see how it turns out. As you said, it's gonna make a fat midrange.
These videos ROCK HELL YEAH BROTHER
I’ve been thinking about doing a big inch LS. I got to looking at heads, and noticed a huge price jump when you get up to the LS7 stuff. It seems like some aftermarket LS3 heads make more since, especially after hearing about the valve guide issue. I mean, flow is not an issue for good LS3s.
Wow! I learned a bunch today. Thank you.
I've been running for years the brodix br7 12-degree cylinder heads I've had 0 problems with valve guides
God damn. I need this in my C5Z with a sequential
Please answer this before I invest in your 11* heads. If the LS7 12* heads drop valves due to angle, What makes your 11* not have the same problem?
Because they are 15 degree heads
@@malcolmstone8116 wasn't referring to heads he's using. He was discussing the LS7 heads. They sell 11* heads.
@@hotroddude6551 ok that makes sense
Yess yesss 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
I would like to see this engine with a ls7 top, hi ram, & some aftermarket heads, but oh well nice build tho
Awesome video
Bad information on the $10,000 heads being 12 degrees, dropping valves...how did you get to that conclusion? If true what were the findings when the valves dropped ?
I just came across your video. What's the name of your organization? I would like to view your website. I have a L92 I am going to build and need to know more about your services. I'm convinced you have the knowledge and skills I'm looking for.
Awesome
At what point should you dowel the main caps on say a lq9 engine with main studs I have heard they can move around? looking to make 900+
Nice build. Will the holes for the rings plug with carbon after a while?
Thank you for sharing
I wasn't going to be able to watch the whole video I hope you talk about the special honing and of the cylinders to capture the oil for the special rings you're using
The titanium valves are what kill the guides. It’s a material situation.
What’s your thoughts on a small notch to squirt oil towards the wrist pins ? On engines that don’t have oil squirters
Would this configuration be good for boost? Turbo specifically? Aside from forging the rotating assembly and getting lower compression
Ls3 heads can flow; what about the exhaust side, our yours heads CNC'd.
Is this race fuel only? What compression ratio can you get away with just pump gas?
This engine will run E85 pump gas.
I recommend 11.5:1 with 93 octane.
When using the torque plate are the head gasket reused or are they a sacrificial set?
Like you read my mind, or just my comment on your last video
Would this be a good set up for a drift motor
Where are ya'll located?
I noticed that you use H-beam rods alot in your builds, why not a forged I-beam to save weight on the NA builds? Especially on the long stoke ones
I belive H-Beam take low end torque better. That's I've read.
Big mistake, not going dry sump.
Road race puts enormous (more than any other) on oiling system.
If you get the chassis turning and braking properly, wet sump can not keep up.
Every time I'm watching a video and they throw that ghetto beat in there. I turn it to something else