Great video, one trick I learned doing valve lash adjustments on my old VW motor is put your flat blade screwdriver through the end of a box end wrench, once lash is set you can hold the set screw in place with the screwdriver as you tighten the nut down with the wrench so it stays in place.
Great video I would just like to make it clear for the noobies like myself that you demonstrated how to work on one set of valves on one cylinder. To then switch to the next side, do one complete rotation of the alternator and align again with the "T." Valves on the other side should be loose and at top dead center for you to then begin adjusting. Thanks dude!
glad you clarifed positon for right side.. Enjoyed your step by. step thorough explanation and decent video imaging.. thanks you you make it easier and funnier for us wanna be diy'ers!!!
Great tutorials, I have a 1982 CB450T that I just brough out of a 2 1/2 year sleep and although it's running you've given me great videos to follow while I wait for my insurance to start at the end of July. I think there is slightly excessive valve clapping and since I have to replace the valve cover gasket due to a slight leaking of oil I am now looking forward to adjust the valuve and get it running smoother. Thanks a lot and keep the vids coming.
Thanks for this. Extremely helpful. I just completed this process, but it didn't solve the high pitch metallic clicking from the engine. Others have suggested it wasn't valve noise, but a loose cam chain.
Very good Jay! But remind me to send you a proper wrench to use with the next bobblehead shipment. You might want to advise your audience to always perform a valve adjustment on a cold motor as well. You da man!
No problem. stay tuned for my carb removal disassembly, clean and reinstall...Thanks for the comment man...Gave me bragging rights to my son who posts gaming videos....
Tx for the feed back...If you can get the cam cover off without removing the tank, then its not necessary to remove it. I did it for accessibility....The spark plug wires are also for accessibility, the plugs them selves are part of the procedure listed in my cb450 repair manual. Honestly, im not sure if its a problem leaving them in. Removing them relieves compression resulting from turning alternator bolt...I haven't tried procedure without removing plugs. Also good time to change them...
Definitely do it when you get it, then my goal is once a year, which may be overkill depending on how often you ride. You may not hear anything, but it will help performance. Im not an expert on symptoms other than I know if they are tight you may hear excessive valve clapping noise, but its hard to judge if your not familiar with you bike. if they are loose you will loose compression and performance.
You've got that backwards. Tight valves will reduce compression because they're not allowing the face of the valve to make a complete seal. Loose valves, on the other hand, will cause excessive noise as the valve slams shut and the tip of the adjustment screw (not set screw) has too much space to take up before it contacts the tip of the valve stem. It's a very precise operation. It's actually better to set the intake valves a little on the tight side, exhaust should be at the upper end.
incredible neat explanation, best I could find on YT! Subscribed. Yet, do we really need to disassemble the tank and other stuff? I don't have enough tools for like the spark plug. Thanks
Just subscribed - These are awesome vids man - i get my '86 CB400 in a couple weeks and i know she's gonna be running rough - cheers fella - really appreciate your time & skills :) What's a good indicator/sign that a bike needs the valves adjusted?
James, i have really important question. I saw a few times this video, and I did not figured out how to adjust right side valves. Question is: Does both cylinders are at the top dead center at the same time? Cause if its not the other side should be adjusted the same but before that rotor should be rotated a bit. How much it has to rotate? Thanks
Thanks a ton for posting these videos. I'm a new owner/rider and your videos have helped me more than anything on the web. Much love!
Great video, one trick I learned doing valve lash adjustments on my old VW motor is put your flat blade screwdriver through the end of a box end wrench, once lash is set you can hold the set screw in place with the screwdriver as you tighten the nut down with the wrench so it stays in place.
Great video I would just like to make it clear for the noobies like myself that you demonstrated how to work on one set of valves on one cylinder. To then switch to the next side, do one complete rotation of the alternator and align again with the "T." Valves on the other side should be loose and at top dead center for you to then begin adjusting.
Thanks dude!
+Brian Parker Great point.
glad you clarifed positon for right side.. Enjoyed your step by. step thorough explanation and decent video imaging.. thanks you you make it easier and funnier for us wanna be diy'ers!!!
@@cjmn8635 no problem =]
Great tutorials, I have a 1982 CB450T that I just brough out of a 2 1/2 year sleep and although it's running you've given me great videos to follow while I wait for my insurance to start at the end of July. I think there is slightly excessive valve clapping and since I have to replace the valve cover gasket due to a slight leaking of oil I am now looking forward to adjust the valuve and get it running smoother. Thanks a lot and keep the vids coming.
Thanks for this. Extremely helpful. I just completed this process, but it didn't solve the high pitch metallic clicking from the engine. Others have suggested it wasn't valve noise, but a loose cam chain.
Best Video. Very informative.
Very good Jay! But remind me to send you a proper wrench to use with the next bobblehead shipment. You might want to advise your audience to always perform a valve adjustment on a cold motor as well. You da man!
Thanks a lot, very good video. The Clymer manual isn't very clear about the procedure, especially for someone who never adjusted valves before.
thanks for the vid i used the same technique for my 86 cmx450 and its running like a champ i also redid the head an base gaskets
super stoked to get my 450 nighthawk, didn't know the had 3 valves per cylinder, pretty sweet.
No problem. stay tuned for my carb removal disassembly, clean and reinstall...Thanks for the comment man...Gave me bragging rights to my son who posts gaming videos....
James, very good explanation! How far do you need to turn the alternator bolt to do the right-hand valves?
Thijs
Tx for the feed back...If you can get the cam cover off without removing the tank, then its not necessary to remove it. I did it for accessibility....The spark plug wires are also for accessibility, the plugs them selves are part of the procedure listed in my cb450 repair manual. Honestly, im not sure if its a problem leaving them in. Removing them relieves compression resulting from turning alternator bolt...I haven't tried procedure without removing plugs.
Also good time to change them...
Thank you, this is a life saver!
Definitely do it when you get it, then my goal is once a year, which may be overkill depending on how often you ride. You may not hear anything, but it will help performance. Im not an expert on symptoms other than I know if they are tight you may hear excessive valve clapping noise, but its hard to judge if your not familiar with you bike.
if they are loose you will loose compression and performance.
thank you. good job
You've got that backwards. Tight valves will reduce compression because they're not allowing the face of the valve to make a complete seal. Loose valves, on the other hand, will cause excessive noise as the valve slams shut and the tip of the adjustment screw (not set screw) has too much space to take up before it contacts the tip of the valve stem. It's a very precise operation.
It's actually better to set the intake valves a little on the tight side, exhaust should be at the upper end.
thank you for your reply. I'll follow your steps, yet remove less parts and report the result here on youtube.
incredible neat explanation, best I could find on YT! Subscribed. Yet, do we really need to disassemble the tank and other stuff? I don't have enough tools for like the spark plug. Thanks
Just subscribed - These are awesome vids man - i get my '86 CB400 in a couple weeks and i know she's gonna be running rough - cheers fella - really appreciate your time & skills :)
What's a good indicator/sign that a bike needs the valves adjusted?
awsome video thanks
Sorry for the delay, You probably figured it out, but if not, its one full turn.
James, i have really important question. I saw a few times this video, and I did not figured out how to adjust right side valves. Question is: Does both cylinders are at the top dead center at the same time? Cause if its not the other side should be adjusted the same but before that rotor should be rotated a bit. How much it has to rotate? Thanks
Well advised.....
what is the torque of the valve cover
what measure they take in admission and how much in escape (ad & ex)
my repair book says the clearence for both is .001...
Sorry for the delay, You probably figured it out, but if not, its one full turn.