Miata ignition switch replacement.
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- This video shows how to install a new ignition switch on a 1990-1997 Mazda MX-5 Miata and Eunos Roadster.
The part number of the Genuine Mazda ignition switch is D001-66-151A.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of MiataMan, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. MiataMan assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. MiataMan recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of MiataMan, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not MiataMan.
What a great video. It was a huge help in replacing mine. I suggest two things- it's a little easier to remove the screw holding the ignition switch in by taking the three screws out of the cowl surrounding the steering shaft . It gives an extra half inch of room to get the screw out (even when using a tool similar to yours I needed that smidge of extra space).
Also, I ordered a part specifically for the 1990 NA Miata from Amazon but found it didn't work (the electrical connector was slightly different). It's amazing how many vendors sell this same part claiming it fits the NA Miata. It doesn't. If you can, remove the switch from the car and visually verify the part you're ordering has the right connector.
Thanks 🙏
@@MiataMan Do you do Super Thanks?
Not sure what “super thanks” are.
@@MiataMan It allows people like me to send you money, to thank you. Essentially like tipping. Look into it.
man's got a rolex on his left and a miata shifter on his right. respect
My second-owner Miata MX5 1992 NA ignition switch was removed the day I watched this video; My symptoms included: no "crank" (not the same as no "start"), no power windows, and no wipers, and no heater blower. To test start, just put ign switch to start position of your key; in order to test wipers, heater blower, and power windows, please set ignition switch to "ON". Removing a total of seven screws, I had the switch in my hand in just a few minutes. The connector was melted at B2 (one of large two white wires from the battery); input lugs B1 and B2 were both failed very uniquely on this switch: there was no pitting internally on the copper wiper-switch components; but rather, each 0.250 inch lug had melted crystallized solder joints which are visible from externally on the switch; so that is a thermal-feedback problem: the solder joint begins to fail and it becomes resistive to current-flow and produces heat and begins to fail, it fails and gets hot and this perpetuates and accelerates the failure, to some degree; twenty-eight years later those solder joints on the ignition switch are ugly grey and crystallized and get very hot due to the resistance of crystallized solder; the heat will melt the plastic-housing; and it may also melt your harness connector a bit too; My 92 NA ignition switch was intermittent for the condition of no-crank, so that was lucky for me (sort of) ... but the other major "clues" or symptoms were also intermittent: no wiper, no power window and no crank. A beginner can probably perform this repair; but be sure to buy the ratcheting phillip screw wrench-type screw-driver for you will need a right-angle approach to that one phillips screw. The Duralast replacement state-side is exact OEM as far as I can tell. B1 feeds battery to ACC and Ignition Coil and Main Relay thru the Engine fuse; B2 feeds battery to Power Windows, ST starter signal on starter, Wiper, Airbag control unit, Heater control unit. So those are your cues for the B2 battery feed failure at this switch. All of that is a "lot" of current for the igntion switch, but nevemind that, because it may still last 25 to 30 years, thsee cars are so reliable. Thanks for the video, Miata man!
Great comment.
I also have no crank on my 1992 NA MX5. The problem wasn't intermittent for me, the car was working fine and the next time I went to start it, no crank.
I'm getting the dashboard lights coming on, blowers coming on, seatbelt alarm, AC fan etc.
I've checked for a bad earth to the best of my ability, swapped relays and fuses, although I've been led to believe there is no relay or fuse for the starter motor.
I need to do more investigation.
If it was this switch at fault, it's considerably cheaper than a new starter motor.
@@Ogma3bandcamp did you ever figure this out????
This is just the video i needed. The last owner removed the male connector and hard wired in 4 switches to make a push to start mod. Been looking for a video of the wiring pre rat nest
I have a bunch of that yellow plastic too, aged. I have a late '90 with, thank God, the long neck crank pulley.
What a great how to vid! thanks very much. Doing this very soon on my 90 NA - thanks again
Why was that plate made of metal, in the U.S.? I don't like it, too heavy for plastic to be supporting it. I have had to rig mine to get it to stay in place. Yes, I had an air bag in steering wheel but replaced steering wheel with a nice NRG quick release.
great video, followed it step by step and worked perfectly. my 04 msm was having a little trouble starting and this fixed it right up. bravo!
And if you don't want to strip the head of the screw out use "JIS" screwdriver bits.
Good point 👍
I’ve been meaning to grab a set of JIS screwdrivers.
I hope we get a video on replacing the pedals on the NA miata's!
Great suggestion 👍 I will make a video on that this week.
Thanks 🙏
Any idea what to do if i can't turn the key at all? Would this fix it?
Replaced the switch hoping to solve a click no start. (Cleaned existing switch years ago and it worked for a week. car always starts eventually, good battery good starter.) Didn't work. Noticed the plug is a bit melted, not as bad as the one here. The wiring to the plug is pretty hacked up from a 90s era alarm install. Is the move to go cut this plug out of a wrecked car which as much wire as I can get, and then cut mine off below the bad splices and wire the new one on? Heat shrink self soldering connectors?
Tip if you don't have Miata man's special screwdriver is to put a screwdriver bit in some mini vice grips. Removing that shroud around the steering wheel gives a little more clearance for the handle but not enough to get a normal driver in (dash in way.)
So regarding the click no start, what do you think would be the next best thing to try? Sometimes I will turn the key and the car will crank right up on the first try, sometimes I will have to turn the key 5 times to only get a single click each time and no crank (this happened to me yesterday after only letting the car sit for two hours after a 10 minute drive). The morning cold starts can seem a little rough especially when it's really cold out and and the crank can sound a little unhappy, I even get a little belt squeal (will still start sometimes on first try though). Im guessing it's starter related, but I was hoping to try this first. After reading your comment though I guess it's not really worth spending 60 bucks on a new ignition switch to try fixing my specific issue
@@ufork I replaced the plug on mine and also realized that it was my clutch safety switch interrupting switch causing the issue. That needs a relay not just a switch.
THANK! Great, easy to follow video.
My car doesn’t turn off.. could this be the culprit as well? Thank you!
Out of curiosity, could you explain why air bag models had a metal plate cover versus just plastic?
I’m not sure why Mazda made the change. It may have something to do with the steering column and combination switch being different.
Do you have a video on how to replace the ignition lock cylinder?
The owner has broken the key off, his dad went in there with a dremel ground the key down and made him a flat screw driver key to start it.
Thanks in advance.
Bob @ Thunderkat Creations, Inc.
Hi Bob, you will probably have to replace the whole part. I created a video of how to remove it from the steering column.
Good luck 👍
omg don't make the same mistake I did and start your car with the ignition thing out. Steering lock is still engaged :|
other than that, thanks heaps for the video!!
Hi sir. Where do i get that lil ratchet tool? I've been looking for it..can't find it.
Mine came from Canadian Tire a few years back.
You should be able to pick one up on line. There was a similar one on eBay at some point.
Just joined your utube video. I have a 1993 Miata and will not turn over/crank. New battery. When key is in STart position only a clicking sound. Sounds like the starter. Are there any relays/switches between (in series) the Ignition Switch and the starter? I understand there is a Clutch Interlock switch
There is a video on my channel that shows how to bypass the clutch switch. That would be a good way to rule it out as a culprit.
If you are hearing a click, it is likely a bad starter motor.
What is the terminal that melted used for? Any idea why it got so hot?
BTW nice videos. Keep 'em coming! Rob
Hi Rob, I am not sure of the pin-out of the the ignition switch plug. However, when there are weird electrical issues, there’s usually a short circuit in the switch.
I have seen quite a few with melted parts.
Great video! Would you do one one the Airbag light error codes and/or repairs? Thanks!
How to tell if the inigition switch is going bad on a 2015 Mazda 5
I hook up an alarm 4 years ago from best buy I have them take it off my key hole is Molten 🔥if this is the culprit that my car keep cutting off on me for years I can only drive it few miles then off ✋ then Go again its frustrating
Would this procedure be the same for a 99-2000, or is it completely different?
My 30 amp fuel injection fuse poops when I turn the power on. Any idea of the cause other then finding a wire short? 1999 nb1
Look for a short in your O2 sensor wire. A damaged wire to the Oxygen sensor, can blow the 30A fuel injection fuse.
nice videos miata man
did you replace the melted connector ? @miataman
Hello. I'm replacing a ignition cylinder and my plug that plugs in the switch is burned also. Where can I find a new one .I've checked with the Mazda dealership here in dallas and they don't make it anymore. Thank you for posting the video ✌
I have seen a few burnt plugs lately and am trying to find a source for new ones.
You may have to go to an auto wrecker to get one.
@@MiataMan thank you. I've found one online. But I will also be checking salvage yard or planet miata. Thank you.✌
Excellent!
so does the new ignition come with a new key? because the Miata i just bought had no ignition and id rather not end up using a screwdriver for a key lol
The ignition switch is just the electrical part that is shown in the video.
The ignition lock mechanism is a separate part and the key would have to be matched to it. You can usually find used ignition lock mechanisms with keys on eBay.
Whats tools did you used ?
He showed what he used if you watch the video lol
How do you know if you have to replace that part
If you start having weird electrical issues, there’s a good chance your ignition switch is failing.
Here are few issues that often point to a bad ignition switch:
-Wipers not coming on.
-Heater fan not working.
-Radio not working.
-Buzzer staying on after the key has been removed from the ignition.
The ignition switch is readily available from Mazda. There is also an aftermarket option available from your local auto parts store.
I always install new Mazda ones, as they are reasonably priced and usually cheaper than the aftermarket version.
@@MiataMan my Miata won’t turn off after I pull my key out. Would this be a solution?
Can this cause the car to stall?
Possible, but not likely. There are many other things that could be causing the stalling issues. Check for vacuum leaks, make sure there are no tears in the intake hose, make sure that the air filter is clean.
Miata Man Checked. I have a rare case where the CAS has also been replaced.
Mine stalls as soon as a gear is selected, or under a certain speed. Im suspicious of either a switch/cable or ecu shutting off gas for some other reasons thought this mightve been it
Had a shop set the idle higher. Now it doesnt stall anymore. However, now it idles at 1100rpm which is loud and i dont really enjoy it. Its fixed the stalling i have, but now its burns more gas and basically is not optimal tune