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Does this work for a single light not working?

To Miata Man, can I replace the old and big classic looking steering wheel to my 2000 Miata. If yes, do I need a Hub for it?

Thankyou a very good and clear video.

Does this make the engine light go off? I have code p0850 thinking this is my problem. If I bypass it will it go away

What about if the plug its slef broke?

What a great video. It was a huge help in replacing mine. I suggest two things- it's a little easier to remove the screw holding the ignition switch in by taking the three screws out of the cowl surrounding the steering shaft . It gives an extra half inch of room to get the screw out (even when using a tool similar to yours I needed that smidge of extra space). Also, I ordered a part specifically for the 1990 NA Miata from Amazon but found it didn't work (the electrical connector was slightly different). It's amazing how many vendors sell this same part claiming it fits the NA Miata. It doesn't. If you can, remove the switch from the car and visually verify the part you're ordering has the right connector.

End result looks great, very surprised. I think if someone has gone thru polishing headlights, maybe add some protection? Ceramic or clear coat perhaps.

Does it mean that I have a code when it’s just on solid?

Bet it has a clean title!

I went with the genuine OEM spoons. Only $150 but wow, very impressive.

do you have to disconnect the battery when swapping the relays out?

Thanks for the Tutorial, Man! Really helpful!

Very nice shame you couldn't keep the air filter a way from the exhaust heaters

I did the same speaker replacement. I was very pleased with the simply installation and the quality of the speakers.

No se puede conseguir ese resorte

And if you don't want to strip the head of the screw out use "JIS" screwdriver bits.

I have a 1990 miata and the clutch switch is in front (drivers compartment) of the clutch pedal arm with what I believe would be a plunger switch that the plunger comes out when the clutch is depressed. Is this right? I don't see any plunger coming out now. It also looks like the switch is threaded through the mounting bracket with an adjusting nut also. Am I right on this?

What gauge wire did you use for the bypass jumper?

I would not recommend using a single jackstand as appears to be the case in this video.

If you bypass this with the jumper. Will the engine light remain on? Mine is showing Code: P0704 " Fault in Clutch Switch". Otherwise, I guess I will replace the switch if the jumper does not clear the code. Thanks!

OMG, that is exactly 1 of my 2 main problems on my 1990 miata 1.6. I cleaned each one of those parts that you teplaced, the rough looping idle wasn't fixed. However, a few months before this problem happened, i had removed all the carpet in order to put sound deadening matts & heat shield, to cover all the floor. I noticed my computer (ECM) is located on the passenger inner firewall, just bellow the heater core, at the passengers tip-toes. Thats why the metal shield covers the ecm to protect it & so the passenger doesnt feel that square lump under the carpet. From 1991 or 92, & later models, the ECM is located at the back wall behind the passenger sest, at least 12 inches above the floor in order to protect it from pools of water, ot especially from a clogged heater core that leacks water from condensation from using the AC. I noticed after removing the carpet, that the lower part of the ECM shield was rusted, as well as the holdinf bracket, & the lower one inch of the ECM. Fine, no problem, the idle still worked fine for about a year. But rust being the metal cancer that it is, must have spread on my ECM throughout that year, finally affecting the engine idle like in your miata. What i want to kick myself on the azz for, is that i had gotten the ECM last week from a wrecked Miata in San Bernardino. But since i had racked up already $350 on miata parts, i decidet to forego the ECM. Now im kicking myself on the azz.. And you csnt trust ECM sellers out there on ebay or Offer Up. But i have no choice now. Those clogged up outlets mesnt to allow water to flow out of vehicles, like also on the miata convertible sides, are notoriius for causing rust provlems. Those rusted corners of the rear tire wells is due to gloged outlet holes and rubber lines that extend from the top of the convertible sides, to the lower rear tire well corners.

"I'd be hanging my arm out the window but yeah, no power steering"

Would this not be the same for 1994?

That’s not a bad swap at all. I’m wanting to go with a 13b rotary set up. Battery location is factory.

What size were the puller bolts

Replaced the slave cylinder in my sons 01, which the previous owner said he changed everything 10k miles back. Fluid was as black as a tire.... Figuring I was about to replace a clutch came across your video. replaced the master cylinder, boys car is back on the road and he said the pedal had never felt that tight. Thanks for the video and saving me a couple of grand..

Great video but I am concerned about torque on the bolts. Why not use a proper wrench?

Do you have a carpet removal and stuff behind the seats? I took mine apart months ago and I’m confused now and don’t want to miss anything

Mine were plugged but no water came out . Thank you!

Temu, $47/set. For Miata 1990-2005. Clips are included

I have that pressure checker too. This helped

Huge help, just what I needed when I needed it, that connector was making me a little crazy! 😂

Hey man, massively helpful and easy to follow vids - definitely not a mechanic but trying to learn. Vids like this really take the 'intimidating' out of engine jobs. thanks for posting

great video, thanks boss!

Do you have a video of how to remove the door from the car?

Haha… I don’t even have the vent tube

do i need to remove the battery? minus side

i like your videos! I have a problem in my NA, every time I press the clutch pedal, the brake warning light on the dashboard turns on. We haven't been able to solve the issue.

Thanks for the video! You sound like William Riley from Star Trek by the way 😂

Thanks was boosting mine and crossed the cabels and blew that fuse . I broke it trying to get it out now i know why . Ill go to mazda tomorrow morning buy a fuse and hopefully be all good thank you again.

I had a similar experience in my 2001 Miata three years ago. It would crank but not start. Had it towed into a Mazda dealership, whose head mechanic had 40+ years of dealership experience? They said it was the immobilizer and would be $2500+ to replace with remanufactured parts from Mazda. I chose to get one out of a recycler and had it shipped to the dealership. They did the work and all seemed well for two days. About $1100 out the door with my supplied parts and their labor. Then I again noticed that when it would crank and not start, that the check engine light would not come on when ignition key was in the first on position! Turns out it was the main relay. Got a used one shipped to me for $12.00. Swappd them out in about 1 minute and it has been perfect for three years! I sued the dealership and got refunded $500 of the the labor. I also bought a brand new main replay to always have with me along with a camshaft position sensor and a crankshaft position sensor which are known to wear out and cause crank but no start situation! I should also mention that about five years ago I had another sudden crank but no start and had it towed to another Mazda dealership. They diagnosed the problem as a bad crankshaft position sensor. They ordered part. Installed it. Still no start. THEN they replaced the main relay and problem solved. I should have sued them too, but did not.

Didn't think of the ECU been chasing down issues where does it inaccurate fluctuation between just 50 to 100 r PMs and then all of a sudden it's skyrockets to almost 2,000 this video helped I've been replacing things left and right and I hate trying to chase down a ghost lol. You got another one of those for the 1.6 by chance for sale

I am currently running into an issue where I release the parking break my right rear rotor won't turn. I thought it was my brake caliper piston getting stuck and I used your method to set the tension. I'm not sure why my e-brake is locking my rotor in place when I release the e-brake.

This has literally just happened to me today, looking into doing a replacement myself

Thanks for the how to video! I have just bought a hardtop with a loosish latch. Id like to give it a turn to take a tiny bit of slack out.

Say it with me now. Mee ot tuh not Mee at ta

Just what I needed. Rattling catch was driving me mad. Great vid.

I bet every Honda civic or Toyota Corolla thinks you want to race them.

Wow! Was not ready for that ending. For a brief moment, I thought you were revving the engine. That bad boy is possessed!

Great help, thank you 😊