Oris has done it again - Aquis Cal 400 Date - NEW in 41.5mm
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- #thenewstandard #orisinhouse #newrelease
Thank you Joanne of Oris Watches USA for the exclusive access to this new release. It is a home run in my eyes. I'm looking forward to buying one.
www.oris.ch/en/collection/ori...
0:00 The Power Intro
0:21 The Love Affair
2:51 The Low Down
5:36 The Movement
7:47 The 400 Jump
9:52 The Overshoot Method
10:47 The Value
11:52 The Areas to Improve
13:10 The Subjectivity Effect - Zábava
Great review Bruce. Highlighting not only the positive points but also like you I prefer to use the term the items that could do better. The comments about the 'characteristic' of the movement are also very well demonstrated and a big thank you for also demonstrating the work around that many on the web are either unaware of or choose not to share. This is a brand new in house movement that would have cost ORIS a fortune to develop, as someone who project manages new products developed in house there has to be a point when development has to stop and sometimes that is when a simple work around is acceptable. I think ORIS made the right call in this case. Yes the extra 10 second stage is annoying but to me less annoying than having to take into account the take up the transmission lash (gear slack) in some watches I own when you pop the crown back in at 0 seconds on the dot, second hand starts to wander around its dial and the minute hand can take several seconds to start moving. Once I realized what was happening I just moved the minute had a tad further than you would normally do. Inconvenient yes but not a show stopper for me. Now that this movement is available in the 41.5 size it has just jumped onto my watch list but still sits below the medium Santos that is near the top. Thanks again Bruce.
I would love to sit and have lunch with you. Your level headed, realistic, and non emotional when talking about the realities of development of an impressive caliber like this 400. Thank you for the excellent comment. I'm pining it!
@@BruceWilliamsThanks Bruce, I'd be happy to do lunch and talk watches but I'm in England, you know the land of strange weather, bad teeth, odd accents and err.. tea. I can appreciate watches not only from the spec sheet or design but from the engineering that has gone into them to make it all happen. The cost of a watch (or anything else) is not just down to the materials used but also has to cover development, prototyping, testing, setting up a manufacturing line, quality control, service centers, work and assembly instructions, logistics, dealer network training... the list goes on. Apologies if you've slumped into a very deep sleep reading this I know it's very boring to most. I appreciate watches of many styles and functions from Casio G-Shocks to JLC Duoface via Omega and Rolex.If I like a watch and can afford/justify it I may make a purchase, that's where my emotion comes in. Have a great day Bruce if you're still awake after reading this.
Come on, for the price this thing costs, you shouldn't have to deal with these kind of "simple workarounds". Such lack of refinement shouldn't really be acceptable. It's not a NH35.
@@DM-rc4yu I could not agree more, we should not have to put up with this, not for any movement including the now very mature Seiko NH35 but this is a new movement designed in house by ORIS and not an evolution of an existing mass produced in house designed movement to my knowledge. New movements may have issues and over time they are refined to fix them. At least with this one there is a work around. I guess we have to balance the pro's and con's v cost. A time setting quirk that has a work around vs 5 day power, 10 year warranty, 10 year service and better than COSC regulation. This issue is not great as you say but something ideally we should not have to deal with at any price really. As I say you make an extremely valid point that any potential buyer should consider prior to a purchase.
I don't know a normal watch buyer probably wouldn't think twice. It's us watch nuts who are offended
Oris definitely stands out as an original design in my opinion. Doesn't look like a copy.
A good original design is hard to create. Props to Oris
I agree, that’s what makes this watch a masterpiece.
Oris for me is unique . Never seen so beautiful watches in my opinion ofc.
It still does look like a Tissot Seastar 1000. a perfect shaped circle. if you want a „innovative“ diver like no one other go for Glashütte Original SeaQ
A dream watch. Goodjob Oris. Thanks Bruce for giving us the 'troubleshoot hand setting'. Really ease me a lot haha .. gonna grab this soon !
Man, I love the blue, and I love the size, and the movement. Wow! 🤩
Hell no to AR coating on the outside!!!!!! Why have a sapphire crystal only to put a softer more easy to scratch material on top. Absolutely makes no sense.
on the upside its easily removed with polywatch, from personal experience it does take a while to get scuffs in some Ar coats
I completely agree with you about the quality of this watch. I’m still on my honeymoon phase with my SMP300 chrome dial when this timepiece came in the mail. Definitely enjoying this double honeymoon. The 41.5 mm size hugs my wrist perfectly. Awesome reviews sir.
Thanks for a thorough review, Bruce.
I appreciate that 👍
You nailed it. Even captured it's true face and star burst.
Oris.
Great brand, great watches.
I owned the previous aquis-model 43.5 mm.
They will gain love and appreciation in the future. Surely now that they introduced the calibre 400.
1904 Hölstein. Oris, great watches for great people.
Greetings from Germany.
It's nice to see the blue dial in action!
Recently purchased one of these. So impressed with the quality, even with the quirk when adjusting the watch. Highly recommend one of these for someone looking for a watch under £3000.
The issues are not ideal but other brands have had the similar issues in the past (i.e. Rolex with the 3185 movements). Also, I agree with Bruce's suggestions for areas to improve except for the AR coating. While it does cut down on reflections, putting an AR coating on the outside is just a bad idea. Every watch I've had that has an AR coating on the outside ends up getting scratches/marks/blemish in the AR coating. Keep in on the underside of the crystal but keep it off the outside.
Exactly. Breitling comes to mind. If you buy something of theirs second hand, the service requires the crystal to be replaced because they are NEVER in good shape. AR coating on the exterior is a terrible design choice from any manufacturer.
Longines(has insane) and Tag have great AR coating.
Thank you very much It's a beautiful Watch✌
Thanks, Bruce for another solid take! The mvt ‘quirk’ is fine with me too but other twin barrel manufacturers (GS 9SA5) don’t have this issue at all. Oris is clearly spinning the ‘flaw’ rather than addressing it head on or fixing it.
Oh I'm sure they will fix it at some point. Likely a small tweak at service like many Rolex Breitling or Omega calibers
I enjoyed the 43 mm Aquis and loved it when I tried it on at an AD, but the 41,5 mm is perfection ❤️
Used to own this model and miss it. Will defo buy back at some point
Dang, I want one. Amen to the micro adjustment clasp, I'll hold off until next year when they add one...Fingers crossed. Last time I looked the smaller size doesn't have the micro adjust on the rubber straps clasp. Which was really handy on the 43 model.
Awesome watch!
Bruce once again criticises the lack of AR on any watch but a Rolex...
What a great watch. Perfect size too, I'm glad to see Oris rolling the calibre 400 out to more models, in more sizes. Its not many watches that are below 14 mm thick and have over 100 hours of power, not at this price point.
Anti reflection coating on the top of the crystal misses the whole point of having a sapphire crystal. The point is to make it worry free. Coatings on the top essentially get scratched. It's a deal killer for me, so Oris, don't do that.
True, if it's going to be there it should be on the underside. Having had a watch with a top coat before, it looks rotten when wearing off. Can't understand why they do that.
Omega does the same. Don’t understand it but also not a big deal to me. It can always be polished off if it bothers you that much
Each to his own. I would never buy a watch with only one sided AR
Great review…! Good stuff…
Patiently waiting for the 39.5mm version
Love my calibre 400. Only major gripe is the rotor doesn't seem to wind the watch much ( I do have a desk job, so being sedentary doesn't help). I believe I heard that it may be due to the low profile of the rotor, less centrifugal force. A bit brighter lume, the point you made about bracelet adjust, and she's perfect 🥰
I commented on Cal 400 before and I said I'd get one to replace my Cal 733 Aquis if they release it in 41.5mm. Well now I guess I have to do that.
Beautiful and that’s finally a proper size I would buy
When this first came out the minute hand jump was a deal breaker for me but now that there is a quick solution for this is back on my list. Going past the desired time and then going back to set it doesn't bother me anymore.
Epic review Bruce!
Huge Oris fan, and this is a great review. Only fools get offended, if a reviewer points out areas that may need improvement, and when criticism is as well explained and respectful as this, I welcome it wholeheartedly 👍🏻👍🏻
Oris just did a great job.
Just impressive for the price.
Oris has done it again, yeeaa another Aquis. I'll wait for a 65 thank you.
Oris growing into a more and more serious contender
Wow, didn’t realize it tapered all the way to 16mm. Great review.
It’s a good looking watch.
Love the Aquis, nothing else like it.
Good review Bruce, thanks mate 👍🏻
Great review. I think Oris have now bypassed Tudor in watch making. By all ways.
Hope Oris will take Aquis Pro down the same route as the main Aquis line and release one in a reasonable size. Current Pro 400 is almost a bit comical at 46 - 48mm. Great review, Bruce!
I’ll be looking to pick up an Aquis with a Sellita movement.
Is so close to presenting the perfect watch. It's case design and bracelet integration are flawless. Butter that most Rolex and Blancpain pieces I own. They just need to polish up on the clasp with a slide adjustment. Pay attention to the glare off the dial and bezel. Watch the weight as it is a bit on the heavy side and can cut into your wrist. Like I said, it's close and they have the foundations of making the best sports divers
Great presentation as always and fair as always. If I had to pick only one improvement, I think I'd go with a sizable clasp. No one is using the divers extension...I't's like kabuki theater to pretend that these will be used for their "intended" purpose in 95% of the cases. Anyway, they have their pro Aquis line for that. Beautiful watch, though hard to believe they have just decided to live with that movement quirk. But being independent has it's costs, eh?
Totaly agree
1. in-house movement, 5days
2. beautiful blue
3. 41.5mm size
4. under 50$
amazing oris
Nice vid as always Bruce. Could you please bring to the channel the Longines Spirit? I’d love to hear your thoughts on that watch.
Looks great I need to check one out. Love the green!!!!
I had the chance to try out the Oris Carl Brashear LE with the cal 401 most and suprised that it does not has the jumping minute quirk. Both cal 400 and 401 are double barrels construction so what give? Could it be the one I tried is the few that do not have this quirk? Anyone who own the watch can share their experience? I was hoping Oris would have resolved the quirk for these new release.
This is a great colour, it s different from the 2023 blue 400 isnt it? But do they have the same ref number? Struggling to tell them one from the other when researching as pictures can show different colours
I hope they develop this movement into a true dual time with jumping local hours. Then it will be the perfect watch.
Why do they cut corners and not put a metal border on the date window? Omega does this too. It looks like an odd and empty space at the 6:00 hour. If no date window border then at least put a half an indice there to create balance.
Does someone know if there is actually a green dial oris at 43.5mm calibre 400? On their website they have only 41.5mm.
Although I could find only in 1 online store having 43.5mm with green dial on mr porter, while they even confirmed its 43.5. Authorised dealers all said oris does not produce the watch in green at 43.5 so dont even know...
Thanks a lot
"It's a quirk of the twin barrel architecture." Christopher Ward's SH21 would like a word. It matches the Cal 400 for power and accuracy, and its hands don't bounce around.
For sure, and you don't need twin barrels to have this issue pop up in various calibers. I'm sure it will be rectified in future updates
Oris got a raw deal with some of the coverage of this movement. Lots of watch brands have jiggle in the minutes hand setting unless you overshoot and move back.
A head-up for viewers, Oris has since then fixed the Caliber 400 jumping hands issue. New watches have revision 2 of the movement, as stated on the bottom : "Cal.400-2"
Hi Bruce - how would you compare this to Breitling Super Ocean Heritage 42mm blue ? I know different price points... but visually, technically and value for money wise... which of the two you lean towards ?
Oris Aquis cal 400 or Seiko MM300? Both are great watches and I know you like them both. But which one would you recommend more?
Hey,
Is the blue on this dial & bezel the same as the new one you reviewed earlier. The 43mm
Yes
It is definitely a significant flaw, no if ands or buts about it.
sup Bruce i saw you today in my bike with friends
Nice review bro,,, may I ask how much is price by $,,,?
I'm sorry but I've tried to get a watch to complement my SMPc 41 including Oris, Tag ect. Ended up 2 weeks ago trading up to the 42 Seamaster blue on bracelet because as good as others are they just didn't match up to Omega quality for the price point. Just my opinion but one that's very strong, keep up the good stuff Bruce 👍🏴
Good review good looking watch 👍
On the fly micro-adjust would make this hands down the best dive watch at this price bracket.
Agreed, if they did that and had the calibre 400 in the 39.5 case, I would buy it immediately
Now a better clasp and the watch is perfect.
I got green one last week.
Not a flaw ... just a different time setting method for a new movement. Before the early 2000's everybody inserted and turned a key to start their vehicles, then one manufacturer introduced a start button! ... it was different than previous key starting methods ... I guess that must have been a flaw too. I appreciate that you stopped, looked and backtracked your original dramatic response. I wish more reviewers were as honest. What you demonstrated was not a "work-around" or "trick" (as it is referred to by many other reviewers) it is just the proper way to set the time on this particular movement. Thumbs up given!
The only reason I don't wear my Oris Aquis is because the accuracy isn't the best. This should fix that issue!
True. The Sellitas have a surprisingly large acceptable window of deviation. This is a bit better than COSC. I got +2 per day on this example
My Sellita Oris Aquis runs approximately +2 seconds a day.
I must have got lucky :)
@@MrMarkworld Same. My Aquis is still running within about 3 seconds a day after three and a half years !
@@presc13nt Nice!! Good to know I'm not the only one
@@MrMarkworld Mine after adjustment does + 0,5-1 s a day
I tried one today, these watches are really well made. A Tag Heuer aquaracer is almost 1000 more and the quality is not even close to Oris
Are there any other European divers with in house movements under $5k aside from the BB58 or this?
The 43.5 is fantastic and wears very nicely, I think that the 41.5 is nothing short of perfection. The Aquis looks best on it’s original bracelet in my opinion. Things I don’t like is the rather large price increase, the in-house 400 movement only because service will be expensive.
10 years warranty
@@Krayziedad I have many Oris watches and a few over 15 years of age and non have failed.
Looks nice but I went with the Breitling SOH II instead.
Still not impressed by the movement, though the new size is much better. Who needs 120 hrs power reserve if you can't set the correct time?
You CAN definitly set the correct time, now, is it the most accurate movement?
Well, do you really wear a luxury watch for it's accuracy? That's just an illusion, nowadays watches or more of a jewellery, if you want precision time you have many other resources at your disposal.
This is a nice bracelet, good looking and not very expensive with the added bonus it can tell the time, more or less accuratly, who cares?
You can absolutely set the correct time without fail. I have a few watches to wear in rotation so 120 hours is awesome in my eyes
You can set the time accurately without issue. This whole thing has been blown way out of context by the watch you tube community - many of which know jack all.
And for the record, I don't own one and won't be buying one, but there is no issue setting the time on the watch, only with complainers on the interwebs about a problem that isn't truly a problem.
@@JayandSarah There is clearly an issue and it is shown in the video. Why lie about it? I don't care about "workarounds" on a wrist watch that costs this much.
@@DM-rc4yu that's a fair perspective to take, but it doesn't mean that you can't accurately set the time.
From my perspective, watching this review and all the others, is that the longer you are around this watch hobby - the more you can see just how active these brands are at working with "you tubers".
I take ALL these things with a grain of salt these days.
Hmm, I wonder, now that I'm watching your video, if Teddy misspoke in his video, because he talks about the accuracy being -30/+5, which I thought was a bit odd, however, there were some commenting on how outrageous this was given the price tag.
They're getting closer! Put the Cal 400 in the 39.5 case and then take my money!
Looks nice but I'd like a happy medium, a classic Aquis with COSC certified SW300 for $2500 retail and $1800-2000 in grey market :)
Great review by the way
Oris please add tool free clasp adjustment, but also keep the diver’s extension!
Same problem with omega cal. 8500 and 8900… the problem with jumping hour
Really??? Why there are no videos all over the internet about that?
The Green one is awesome
Imo if AR on the outside is not a good idea, what’s the point of buying a watch when you can’t move your arm a bit to bypass the reflection? Might as well use the phone to check the time
It's on the inside. Check their website.
Reflection is due the dial, a Matt dial would have less reflection
"60% of the times, it works every time!" Great brand, great watch and great review!
I’m liking this watch more and more, really considering it in the green
The green is really sharp. I got hands on with the sellita version last year
Oh boy, blue again
I love ORIS, there a solid company and make quality products. However, if they would really listen to their followers they would understand it’s time to step up and make an adjustable clasp. They made an amazing rubber strap with an adjustable clasp. Hopefully the reading this comment. ORIS you have many examples - The submariner bracelet, IWC bracelet, Omega and so many other brands. Caliber 400 is a big breakthrough, now come on and cross the finish line and make a kick ass bracelet🏁
When you compare them to Tudour the Tudor design team seem to be asleep compared to Oris all there watches look the same in my opinion Oris Is becoming a strong contender at that level i hope they continue down that path all they need to do id fix those Quirks that you mentioned
Good looking watch.This might be a controversial comment but I would like to see more " high end" makers follow in Tags footprint and offer a good quality quartz movement as an option.GS and Brietling and Longinnes do?Autos are fine but your stuck like me if you don't get on with an auto for everyday use.
I don't think I've ever heard anyone say that before, but I am all for more consumer choice. Bring it on
Makes no sense. What do you even mean by not getting on with everyday use?
@@SimulatorWhiz I know what I want and that's subjective. I have never had much luck with autos and wear a watch as a timekeeper as opposed to jewellery as a daily beater and over the years my watches have had to cope with abuse.In my comment I simply suggested that a choice would be good for quartz fans.
Another great review on a very good looking Oris. Well done as always Bruce!
Thanks Blueshirt!
Great watch but I personally think the font of the logo looks like it could also be a cheap Amazon watch
Wait, this is the same channel that excoriated Omega for putting AR on top of their sapphire crystals and now you're asking Oris to do it.
Thanks for the review Bruce. When you compare the antireflective properties of this Oris to your Hulk (which has none), how would you rate or describe it ?
Hulk is more legible. I should do a video solely on this. Rolex crystals have ARC only on the underside of the cyclops. The rest of the crystal is either cut or a grade that enlarges reflections and makes them more opaque so you get some light play but there is no defined reflection like a Oris or a Zelos crystal with ARC. Its a deliberate choice and not happenstance. My camera will have issues focusing on a crytal like this Oris, but never on a Rolex
@@BruceWilliams very interesting. When I compare my Yachtmaster to my other watches from Omega, Zenith or Sinn it is day and Night. Really drastic. The YM is beautiful in direct light, but indirect and low light the dial gets this milky effect, readability is reduced. Only the big markers save it from not being legible.
For the time-setting quirk. You don't actually have to overshoot and back into the correct time. You just need to get pressure off the forward gear. Moving the hands clockwise to set the time, when the correct time is achieved back the crown off just a tad so you are in the dead zone of the crown. Push in, sets it without moving the minute hand. Watch at 15:15 czcams.com/video/SyFmCNz2pug/video.html
If the date window has a shiny frame would be nicer...
my seiko sumo running at -3 a day with the 6r35... a loooooooooot cheaper (just saying i think seiko making a STRONG come back)
Lovely watch, great design, too expensive at retail. Oris sells very well and an awful lot cheaper in the 2nd hand market as they lose value quite quickly. If you don't mind that, you can get great deals later on. But if you prefer brand spanking new, go for it!! 41.5mm is a bit small for my wrist but definitely a sweet spot for many people.
Great thing about Oris is most ADs will offer a good discount. Very rarely do I see people buying at retail. Only further enforces the value for money aspect
I set my watches by that method anyway, to make sure I've taken up the 'slack'. in the drive system . I thought it was just common sense.
Oris needs to sort out that flaw in a watch costing that much
Oris are definitely a brand to watch now.
plz make 39.5 one with cal400
If they do that, I’ll cry. Just got a 39.5 aquis real dial and tungsten bezel.
Great review as always Bruce. What a great addition to the Aquis line.
I’ve really fallen for Oris as a brand over the last few months. I love their designs and the fact that they’re independent and they just seem to do things right (in my opinion). I’m going to get a ProPilot Big Date in the next month or two. It’ll be my first Swiss piece and I’m really excited about it! Really hoping I can get one of those cool Oris enamel mugs too 🐻☕️🤣
The jumping minute hand is kind of annoying but once you know about it and the workaround I don’t think it’s a big deal. It’s almost endearing. It gives the watch more of unique personality almost and I think it’s more than worth the trade off for the kudos of an independent in house movement.
Its wild to think they are one of the VERY few independently owned and operated brands left in the world. I love it
I love that they removed "Pressure Resistant" from the dial. That is 100% useless information and clutters the dial on the 43.5mm version. I'm still waiting on a proper BLACK dial like they offer in the 39 and 43mm. The new anthracite is ok, but lacks the clean timeless look of a simple and matching black dial + black bezel.
Wish it came in that 39.5mm size. Hopefully soon 🙏
This or longines legend diver or a used seamaster 300m (old version) 🤔