Browning Buckmark .22LR Pistol - Disassembly, Assembly, Upgrades & Performance
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 08. 2015
- Browning Buckmark .22LR Pistol - Disassembly, Assembly, Upgrades & Performance
This is an extended video where we review the older model Browning Buckmark .22LR semi automatic pistol. We go over performance options as well as an in depth disassembly & assembly. Some of the parts used are from Tandemkross, Volquartsen, Tactical Solutions, Burris, Sightmark, Midwest Gun Works, Striplin Custom Gunworks, etc.
Thank you for being a loyal friend to the
CloverTac channel!
CloverTac Homepage
www.clovertac.com
CloverTac On Facebook
/ clovertac
CloverTac On Twitter
/ clovertac
CloverTac On Instagram
/ clovertac
CloverTac On Reddit
/ clovertac
Support us with Pateron:
www.patreon.com/user?u=5584147 - Sport
first video I've found on the old style buckmark
Thanks!
techson you bet, my apologies for the long duration but will all the info it was hard to cut it down anymore. hopefully can edit and just do a tear down video that is shorter
Me too. Mine's a 1992 and still shoots like a new one. This is the 1st vid I've seen on the older Buckmarks. Thanks Clover Tac.
Great video dealing with older models. I have a Silhouette and your video was very helpful. My grips are wood. Gun is a great shooter but the defect in this gun is how easy it is to immobilize it by taking the grips off. Thanks again for a great video.
Right on! Can't beat a Browning! And, thank you for the kind words. If you browse my videos you will see, I am a big Buckmark shooter, own several, even a carbine.
Tandemkross has produced a far superior Browning Buckmark firing pin replacement video. They also sell titanium firing pins.
correct, Tandemkross excellent stuff... have many, many videos using, testing and reviewing their products. i have used TK stuff since they only had 2 products LOL. because of that early relationship as a customer they were one of the first companies to support my channel. they are HUGE now compared to what they once were and it has been awesome to see them grow over the years. thanks for the comment
Thank you
my pleasure, old video you found here
I just replaced my trigger with a TandemKross trigger and once I reseassembled the gun I realized that my mag release has no tension. This video explains why. Thanks!
+Zak Ruvalcaba I am glad you found it helpful. Please let me know how you like that trigger. I certainly cannot complain with the trigger jobs and shoes I have on any of mine but always interested in hearing how the upgrades perform.
Pretty sure you can do it all with a Buckmark! Damn!
I would have left the optics on and just removed the rear screw and loosened up the set screw under the barrel and just A framed the barrel and slide. Once the two aren't touching any more. You just use the thumb on the slide to keep it still long enough to remove the barrel and then you can use the newly freed hand to make sure that the buffer piece doesn't go flying off to Mars . That's my hack anyway.. otherwise good video and good advice, thanks and keep it up bro
thanks, quite and old video here, correct in that everything does not have to come apart but should i leave anything out, someone would certainly ask. i have many more buckmark videos with more simplifed versions of the tasks at hand
Whenever I see someone test the triger pull it seems they never pull in the normal direction your finger would apply pressure. Ends up being at a different vector and not actual.
nothing will ever be perfect... you are correct that position makes a difference and that is subject to the individual... best we can do is a general idea. the mechanical factors stay the same, so should be close enough.
@@CloverTac I'm 74 and have done gunsmithing for a lot of years. Have reduced my handgun inventory done to 15 and all have been improved over some manufacturing quality. I did chuckle when on reassembly you say it should work as if not sure.🤣👍
I have owned Buckmarks for years but had never dissembled the frame completely to clean and remove the trigger. I buffed and polished the trigger face as I like a smooth trigger. Your video was very helpful in reassembly. The most difficult step for me was reinstalling the safety. What I found was replacing the safety prior to replacing the hammer and sear. I wonder if you've tried that? The thing what that is making sure the hammer strut meets the mainspring detent. Thanks for the video, it was helpful.
yep, all good tips! i have take all of mine apart like this SO many times, guess it is second nature and i probably missed a few steps and points when explaining it... that tends to happen.
You mentioned a Volquartsen trigger. I looked on Midway, Brownell's and their own website. Apparently it is no longer offered. Sounded like a nice addition. Thanks again for the video. @@CloverTac
yeah, thinking this was before i did much as far as upgrades. they don't make the volquatsen anymore. that said, the tandemdross victory trigger is amazing if you are looking for an upgrade. i have videos on all the upgrades that have been done to my buckies... there are many. check those out if you want, if you have questions, let me know. i am expecting a custom guide rod from striplin custom gunworks any day now... buckmarks are awesome out of the box but i am still always pushing for more.
I partially disassembled my BuckMark for cleaning & lube. Did not remove barrel. Removed slide and recoil rod and spring. After cleaning and reassembly the slide will not rack. It is rigid and will not budge. So removed grips and checked all parts on both sides. Made sure everything was in place. I’ve had these parts out in the distant past so I know how they go. Cocked the hammer and reinstalled slide, etc. Dry fired with thin plastic piece to protect breech. Slide will not move just like before. I’m stumped. What am I missing?
no clue at this point AND you have asked a complicated questions in the most HORRIBLE place every to ask. first i will likely not get another notificaiton for your replies and second, no way to send pics or anything. be happy to help but you need to reach out through my email, about section, website, socilal media, etc, i am not hard to find.
Thanks for your reply. I went thru many Buckmark videos about cleaning, disassembly, reassembly, etc., but found no answer to my problem, plus the videos were all many years old and no recent reply’s. Yours was more recent so I thought I would give it a try. Found a Buckmark forum and asked there. Maybe someone there can help. Thanks again.
if not reach out to me, again, just not here
Where do you find the parts for the older buckmarks? I looked at Midwest gun works, the parts are discontinued. Thanks for any help
so if you need specifics then you will need to reach out through social media DM, my website, the about section here on the channel, etc.... short verion is to try, Jack First, Numrich, Lees Gun Parts or Gun Garage, then as crazy as it sounds, eBay
@@CloverTac thanks for the reply, I looking at your other video now
don't torture yourself like that 😂🤣
Clover Tac: I have the older model ('92) with the slab side barrel. I want to replace the hammer. You show how to pull it back and insert a punch to hold the mainspring. Another vid shows the same thing. I have spent hours trying to find the "groove" or whatever it is and, haven't found it yet. Is it possible that the plunger has turned so I can't access it? Thanks
Clover Tac: When we were texting you mentioned it sounds like the plunger isn't getting pushed all the way down. That was it. The arm on the hammer is so worn it wasn't pushing the plunger down enough where I could get the punch in above the lip to capture it. I had to work a small pick in just enough to depress the spring enough to get the punch in deep enough to hold it. Now I have a new problem. I got the new hammer from Midwest Gun Works Inc. The arm on it is about an 1/8" longer than my worn out arm. It is too long ! The plunger bottoms out before the sear engages. I'm not sure at this point if I'll just return it to them and order one of those expensive Volquartsen hammers. Or grind off the Midwest one. I'm leaning toward the Volq because that arm is very hard steel. And, if I don't get it perfect it'll wear out the plunger cup. Suggestions are welcomed.
yep, it needs to be fitted, meaning you file it all down until it gets a good fit and crisp release. the Volquartsen will be the same way.i have played with a coupe aftermarket hammers and they all are long like that. i have never found a significant difference between an aftermarket hammer and a stock one. on the plunger issue, a stock hammer & sear with a good polish job and a spring flip will get you a 2 pound or less pull and with an aftermarket shoe, like the tandemkross victory, you have an overtravel, making it a sweet setup. yeah, what i way trying to get at in the text is, i have modified a punch to help me out because there is a bit of wiggle that needs to take place. that hole is 3/32, so you need a punch that size or smaller, then if you taper it off with a grinder and file, it gives you play to wiggle it into place.
CloverTac : Ok, if the volq has to be fitted too then I'll just use the one I have. Thanks
CloverTac: So I just measured everything then shaved 1/16" off and shined it up. It works like new now. Thanks for your input and help. And, keep your powder dry and happy shooting 'till next time. 😄
thanks, glad it helped out
Great Video.. You didn't put any Oil on anything. What parts do you Oil ? I just got a Buckmark Lite and was trying to find out what i need to do to a brand new gun as far as where the Oil Goes..
Since .22 is dirty stuff, you gotta be pretty careful with what and how much you oil. I typically only oil, very sparingly, the area where the slide rides on the frame.
But what about the Hammer & Sear and maybe the guide rod..
sidlarrie2 I dont oil in the fire control group, since the hammer & sear are polished. oil just gets them nasty & sticky. A little on the rod & spring is ok.
Clover Tac is right to stay away from the oil. Most people think any place there is friction needs oil. I used to think the same thing. But, guns are a different story. The metals used are married at the factory and will give generations of use without lubrication. Oil only attracts dirt and grit and is very harmful inside a gun causing premature wear. After I clean a bore I run one patch lightly oiled just for storage. Other than that the manufacturer will specify if the gun needs any oil. Go ahead and slop oil on it if you want it to wear out prematurely and malfunction all the time.
Hi, I just found your channel and subscribed. I have a Browning Buck Mark. How can I tell if it’s an older or newer model. I’ve had it for quite a while and I’m looking to doing some upgrades on it. Thanks for your time.
i am sure you can find a chart or something through google to help you identify the year it was made. the only major difference is that some of the newer models have finger grooves milled into the frame wich makes the design on the grips different from those older models that do not have those grooves.
@@CloverTac
I believe my Buck Mark does not have the finger grooves in the grip. I’ll double check after I get home from work. Thanks for the help
@@stanlucas665 you bet and may wanna hit me up through email or social media or something. these commetns are not very reliable, i don't always get a notification.
Check to see if the slide has a roll pin towards the middle.....the post 2001 do not have that......all pre 2001 have it ! Very simple.....
@@adrianotero7963
Thank you
What exactly is the rationale in making an entire "comprehensive" informational video of 40+ minutes that is out of focus?
jmcdvm camera
quality & encoding were the issues back then, i am not a big major channel. it has served its purpose for many. my apologies that it is of no value to you, maybe some of my newer videos would be.