The black cord that goes to the battery in the back left, what is that and where does it go to ? I end connection broke due to arching from loose connection and burning
I replaced my valve cover and accidentally made contact with positive terminal in the engine bay that caused a spark. My car has 0 power now. I opened up the battery distribution block, and it had contonuity on all of the fuses. Do you think i burned out the fuse block found by the glove box? Do you know how to test to see if it is the fuseblock?Thanks for the video. I appreciate DIYrs like yourself.
Ooo sorry to hear that. Yeah it’s possible some fuses behind the glove box popped. I would access that fuse box and check for power coming into it. If you have power coming into the fuse box then start checking the one by one to see which fuses popped
Dont ever let autozone do anything like this to your BMW Do it yourself Just like this guy did Same for replacement of battery New battery needs to be registered If you have had distribution box issues, chargiywikld be affected as well So always good to register the battery anytime the connections are new This also affects ac blower motor, heated seats and thenrear defrost If your fan is good but isnt running, heated seats arent heating and no defrost - CHECK THAT DISTRO BOX loose connection best case Replacement of assembly worst case God bless
No the fuse link does not require programming. That is just plug and play. If the battery is replaced then that would need to be registered to the car.
If the fuse link is bad will it cause my bmw not to be able to to start my car will crank over but won’t start and the positive terminal where it connects to the fuse link was melted
In some cases yes it can prevent the car from starting. This is the main power distribution. From this point it goes to all the fuse boxes. If the car cranks but doesn’t turn on, I would start with basics. Check for fuel, these cars have issues with fuel tanks, fuel pumps and EKPS the control unit for the fuel pump. Check for proper airflow, make sure the filter is clean and not heavily restricted. Check for spark. Make sure the 8mm grounds on the ignition harness are secured correctly. And check for compression. If all these are good I would have it checked out by a mechanic and see if any trouble codes are stored. I have seen the crankshaft sensors on these fail that will cause a crank no start. Hope this helps
Those are power wires go to different fuse boxes or accessories that the car may have. Depending on the options the car was built with will change which wires are connected. But yes it is important to have those connected.
Great video, thanks so much, I have an e90 and the power just blanks out and then wakes up 10 minutes later or so and I was told by one person that it could possibly be the fusible link, have you ever heard of that. Does this part have to be coded to the car after fitting or not and is there a max time I can have power to car disconnected before I will upset coding. Thanks so much, Clifford
When the power blanks out for 10 minutes. What is the state of the car? Are you just sitting in your car with the engine off? Or does the car turn off mid driving?
I have a question , so there is not power at all in my BMW e 90 the red cable that’s connected to distribution box /fuse link that goes and connects to the fuse box under the glove compartment , has no power running thru it , what can be my issue ?, the fuse link box ? Can the fuse link box make the car have no power at all??
Yeah the fuse inside of the fuse link could be blown. If you remove it and do a continuity check between the power in and the line out to the front distribution box it should read some resistance showing the fuse is still intact. If you get OL reading or infinity reading depending on the meter you have then the fuse is blown and it would need to be replaced. That being said the fuse won’t blow for any reason. I would check for a short to ground on that wire as well. There is a recall for that power cable as well because it would overheat and melt to the fuse box. You can PM your Vin if you like on instagram and I can check to see if your car has an open recall for that. If it does then everything should be covered.
How was the alternator diagnosed? Do you have any current fault codes? There could be something else going on with the car. I would also look into the health of the battery. Replace and Register if needed. Check connectors on alternator. Make sure there are no loose pins. Is the alternator OEM?
Hello, sir. My battery on a BMW X4 diesel died and was dead for a week, and when I wanted to unlock the car to get a new battery, it refused to open with the key, so I had to unlock it manually.Fast forward, I got a new battery and installed it, and when I tried to start the car, it didn't want to start, so I used jumpers and jump started the car directly from the battery, and surprisingly, it did start, but it kept showing faults like led light fault, drivetrain fault, and it kept losing power until it ended up kicking out the gears, and now when I start the car, the system goes completely off although the car is still idling. The lights don't turn on, the radio and screen turn off, everything goes dark, and the speedometer doesn't move even when you rev the car, so I phoned someone to get it checked, and they are battling to fix the problem. Do you believe it could be the power module?maybe a blown fuse because even after trying to diagnose it the machine says it can't access the system 💔.please help
Hello Sir, just changed my electric water pump and thermostat on my 2010 BMW 328i and fuse under the hood is good. I can not for the life of me get the water pump to go through bleed process. I was told that I need to have the car cleared of any codes but before I do there could be a distribution box that needs replacing. Exact Same one as you have in thus video. I was told if I don't want to Pay 100.00 to have codes cleared unplug for a lip bit then I shouldn't have to. I have replaced everything New. Any advice would be appreciated May God Bless You and Your Family
Sure I can Lend some assistance. Were the parts replaced with OEM BMW? 1. I would check to make sure the ground wire for the water pump is screwed in. It’s usually a E12 aluminum bolt. 2. Check if any corrosion is built up in the two pin connector for the thermostat or the water pump main connector. 3. In some rare cases the process could not be executed if the coolant level sensor is malfunctioning. If it can’t detect coolant in the reservoir it will abort or not let the process continue to protect the water pump. If all of this checks out okay. Try the bleed process as follows. Coolant topped off in the reservoir. Have an external battery charger connected to the vehicle. Turn on ignition Click in the drivers seat belt. (You don’t have to stay in the car) Turn the lights to the “On” position all the way to the right. Turn on the blower for the ac to the lowest setting and set the heater to max heat. 84 degrees is what it usually displays Hold down the gas pedal for 10-12 seconds use a timer on your phone to count. And the bleed process should Start. Let me know how it goes 👍🏼
Will this if the fusekink broken turn of things in my car i have e90 2006 3.0 auto bssically my idrive no power sunroif no power ac light nuthing heated seaymts nuthing no power and the key when i unlocjmk maually then the jey works buy tge button once i walk away i have to manually open again and so on
It sounds like you have multiple issues going on with the car. This fuse link can cut power if the internal fuses are blown. But if they are blown I would check to see what caused the fuses to blow. Start with having the battery tested and make sure you have the right size battery installed. Typically on this car it is a 90-92AH AGM battery 900CCA. If you do replace the battery make sure it gets programmed/registered as well. Then recheck if the car as power going to all the components. If the battery dies again over night you may have something turned on that is draining the battery overnight. It could be a water pump, a control unit or an aftermarket device draining the battery slowing. A draw test would then have to be performed. But these are all guesses since I don’t know exactly what is going on.
Something like this I would start at the battery. Make sure you have a good battery and the right size. This car should have a 90 AH or 92AH is fine. 900CCA.
Okay if the battery is okay I would check for any stored fault codes with a scanner and go from there. There are a lot of things that can cause this a fault code will help steer you in the right direction.
@@friendlymechanic9778 my scanner throwing me a code 2E7C. BSD DARA BUS COMMUNICATION FAULT. i replaced my alternator and nothing changes for that fault code. Car doesn't over heat either.
That connector was only used during transport to the dealership. It’s called the battery save switch, it was to keep the battery charged up during transport and it was removed during the PDI (Pre Delivery Inspection).
Anybody Help!!!! I have a 2006 e90, no overheating issues till I had a mechanic work on the oil filter housing because of leaks, everything done, took car out for a drive, after driving for 30 minutes or so, yellow temp light flashes, coolant leaking but dunno from where, Mechanic came, put water and just bled and drove car the whole 1 hour without issue. Third day, tried going out, after 10 minutes, yellow temp flashes again, pulled over, leak around the hose that goes into the oil filter housing. Changed hose, start car for 15 minutes, pump ran and after 15 minutes, yellow temp warning light reappeared with radiator fan cranked high, no leaks. Car cooled down, did self bleed and waterpump ran for over 14 minutes in self bleed mode. Once car is started after 15-18 minutes, temp light flashes, could that be the waterpump or something else? I don't wanna throw money away on another waterpump if that's not the issue. During self bleed and initial start of car, water pump works and seem to squirt water with high pressure and this only lasts for a few minutes before it stops working.
Hello. I have just changed my battery on my 2009 E92 320i and I am not able to reset and code the battery. Whenever I get to the screen which tells me to code the batterys size it just sends me back to the starting screen. Is it possible that this is caused by the fuse link?
@@friendlymechanic9778 I have tried 3 different fault code readers. 1 of them is from a shop local to here and each one of them is able to do this operation. I bought my own Icarsoft cr max and it acts the same way. Here is a pretty long and accurate description of what happens. Thanks for taking your time reading it... So first of all, to start this off I had a very bad battery in the car and when the cold started to hit it froze and broke. However we were in the middle of moving so we had to use the car for a couple more days. At this moment it was about -20 to -25° celsius outside. The car had trouble starting but when we had finished moving we tried starting the car one last time to take it for a spin. It did not start so we had to jump the car with my other car and started driving. We stopped for a red light and the car died and it was dead. We were not able to jump the car either so we had to get it towed away. They took the car to a shop and it sat there for a couple of days until the battery i ordered came, we went and changed the battery and drove the car back home and tried resetting and coding the battery and this is where the problem occurs. I have tried with three different fault code readers that should be able to code the battery. One of the fault code readers is from a local shop that definitely should be able to do this operation and this is what happens. Whenever you plug the fault code reader into the car, you can go to the option where you're supposed to code the battery. If you click that button you get to a screen that says something like "You will now change the size of the battery", press "OK" and it kicks you out to the starting menu again. I bought a new fault code reader which i have available that arrived this week and it is a Icarsoft CR MAX. I am very familiar with these cars having lots of trouble with low voltage in the battery with immobilizers and all that starts to trouble. But I have very low knowledge of these cars and would really like help from you to debug the issue. There is no other fault codes than the ones that I know about. Those are both foglights in the front, unplugged to go through the MOT. Right rear brake wear detector which I accidentaly broke while changing the brakes last year and the O2 sensor. I have a exhaustleak which I soon will fix. If there are any other questions needed to be answered, please ask in the comments and I will answer them. Or else, please give me help to move forward with the problem. What could it be causing this? Where should I start debugging? Would love to get the car running again. Thanks again in advance...
Thank you for the detailed information. My first question would be what battery was ordered? Brand? AGM battery or not? CCA? AH? Date stamp on battery?
I have probably come to the conclusion that it has something to do with the B+ cable. Will start to remove and change out some of the bad cables around.@@friendlymechanic9778
The black cord that goes to the battery in the back left, what is that and where does it go to ? I end connection broke due to arching from loose connection and burning
I replaced my valve cover and accidentally made contact with positive terminal in the engine bay that caused a spark. My car has 0 power now. I opened up the battery distribution block, and it had contonuity on all of the fuses. Do you think i burned out the fuse block found by the glove box? Do you know how to test to see if it is the fuseblock?Thanks for the video. I appreciate DIYrs like yourself.
Ooo sorry to hear that. Yeah it’s possible some fuses behind the glove box popped.
I would access that fuse box and check for power coming into it. If you have power coming into the fuse box then start checking the one by one to see which fuses popped
@@friendlymechanic9778 thanks ill look at that
Did you resolve this issue? My n52 is crank no start after vgc
hello i have a 1056 code and my car does turn on but does not acclerate at all just goes 1 mph
Dont ever let autozone do anything like this to your BMW
Do it yourself
Just like this guy did
Same for replacement of battery
New battery needs to be registered
If you have had distribution box issues, chargiywikld be affected as well
So always good to register the battery anytime the connections are new
This also affects ac blower motor, heated seats and thenrear defrost
If your fan is good but isnt running, heated seats arent heating and no defrost - CHECK THAT DISTRO BOX
loose connection best case
Replacement of assembly worst case
God bless
i have to program battery/power box after replacing?
No the fuse link does not require programming. That is just plug and play.
If the battery is replaced then that would need to be registered to the car.
If the fuse link is bad will it cause my bmw not to be able to to start my car will crank over but won’t start and the positive terminal where it connects to the fuse link was melted
fr mines doinng that rn the red wire is broken from negative to blue fuse
his mean fuse link needs replacing?
Mine is melted however car cranks a few times and runs, then will just turn off while driving…
In some cases yes it can prevent the car from starting. This is the main power distribution. From this point it goes to all the fuse boxes. If the car cranks but doesn’t turn on, I would start with basics. Check for fuel, these cars have issues with fuel tanks, fuel pumps and EKPS the control unit for the fuel pump. Check for proper airflow, make sure the filter is clean and not heavily restricted. Check for spark. Make sure the 8mm grounds on the ignition harness are secured correctly. And check for compression.
If all these are good I would have it checked out by a mechanic and see if any trouble codes are stored. I have seen the crankshaft sensors on these fail that will cause a crank no start.
Hope this helps
Did you resolve this?
What are the blue and black clip that are connected to the fuse link? Also is it important to have the blue one connected to the fuse link
Those are power wires go to different fuse boxes or accessories that the car may have. Depending on the options the car was built with will change which wires are connected. But yes it is important to have those connected.
Great video, thanks so much, I have an e90 and the power just blanks out and then wakes up 10 minutes later or so and I was told by one person that it could possibly be the fusible link, have you ever heard of that. Does this part have to be coded to the car after fitting or not and is there a max time I can have power to car disconnected before I will upset coding. Thanks so much, Clifford
When the power blanks out for 10 minutes. What is the state of the car?
Are you just sitting in your car with the engine off? Or does the car turn off mid driving?
Mine blanks wen its not moving,i can lock it nw and 5 min later power comes back
I have a question , so there is not power at all in my BMW e 90 the red cable that’s connected to distribution box /fuse link that goes and connects to the fuse box under the glove compartment , has no power running thru it , what can be my issue ?, the fuse link box ? Can the fuse link box make the car have no power at all??
Yeah the fuse inside of the fuse link could be blown. If you remove it and do a continuity check between the power in and the line out to the front distribution box it should read some resistance showing the fuse is still intact. If you get OL reading or infinity reading depending on the meter you have then the fuse is blown and it would need to be replaced.
That being said the fuse won’t blow for any reason. I would check for a short to ground on that wire as well.
There is a recall for that power cable as well because it would overheat and melt to the fuse box. You can PM your Vin if you like on instagram and I can check to see if your car has an open recall for that. If it does then everything should be covered.
My alternator don't charge the battery i buy the new alternator but still not charging
How was the alternator diagnosed? Do you have any current fault codes?
There could be something else going on with the car. I would also look into the health of the battery. Replace and Register if needed.
Check connectors on alternator. Make sure there are no loose pins. Is the alternator OEM?
Hello, sir. My battery on a BMW X4 diesel died and was dead for a week, and when I wanted to unlock the car to get a new battery, it refused to open with the key, so I had to unlock it manually.Fast forward, I got a new battery and installed it, and when I tried to start the car, it didn't want to start, so I used jumpers and jump started the car directly from the battery, and surprisingly, it did start, but it kept showing faults like led light fault, drivetrain fault, and it kept losing power until it ended up kicking out the gears, and now when I start the car, the system goes completely off although the car is still idling.
The lights don't turn on, the radio and screen turn off, everything goes dark, and the speedometer doesn't move even when you rev the car, so I phoned someone to get it checked, and they are battling to fix the problem. Do you believe it could be the power module?maybe a blown fuse because even after trying to diagnose it the machine says it can't access the system 💔.please help
Re code the battery
Hello Sir, just changed my electric water pump and thermostat on my 2010 BMW 328i and fuse under the hood is good. I can not for the life of me get the water pump to go through bleed process. I was told that I need to have the car cleared of any codes but before I do there could be a distribution box that needs replacing. Exact Same one as you have in thus video. I was told if I don't want to Pay 100.00 to have codes cleared unplug for a lip bit then I shouldn't have to. I have replaced everything New. Any advice would be appreciated May God Bless You and Your Family
Sure I can Lend some assistance. Were the parts replaced with OEM BMW?
1. I would check to make sure the ground wire for the water pump is screwed in. It’s usually a E12 aluminum bolt.
2. Check if any corrosion is built up in the two pin connector for the thermostat or the water pump main connector.
3. In some rare cases the process could not be executed if the coolant level sensor is malfunctioning. If it can’t detect coolant in the reservoir it will abort or not let the process continue to protect the water pump.
If all of this checks out okay. Try the bleed process as follows.
Coolant topped off in the reservoir.
Have an external battery charger connected to the vehicle.
Turn on ignition
Click in the drivers seat belt. (You don’t have to stay in the car)
Turn the lights to the “On” position all the way to the right.
Turn on the blower for the ac to the lowest setting and set the heater to max heat. 84 degrees is what it usually displays
Hold down the gas pedal for 10-12 seconds use a timer on your phone to count.
And the bleed process should Start.
Let me know how it goes 👍🏼
Does the seat belt necessarily have to be clicked? Tried doing it earlier, didn’t work. Bleeding didn’t work. Didn’t click the seatbelt. Thank you
The bleeding should start even if the seatbelt isn’t clicked in. But I would try it with the seat belt clicked in and see how it goes.
For an extra measure I would also try with the hazard lights on.
@@friendlymechanic9778 I am having bsd codes. People say it’s that or the waterpump and thermostat.
Will this if the fusekink broken turn of things in my car i have e90 2006 3.0 auto bssically my idrive no power sunroif no power ac light nuthing heated seaymts nuthing no power and the key when i unlocjmk maually then the jey works buy tge button once i walk away i have to manually open again and so on
It sounds like you have multiple issues going on with the car. This fuse link can cut power if the internal fuses are blown. But if they are blown I would check to see what caused the fuses to blow. Start with having the battery tested and make sure you have the right size battery installed. Typically on this car it is a 90-92AH AGM battery 900CCA. If you do replace the battery make sure it gets programmed/registered as well. Then recheck if the car as power going to all the components.
If the battery dies again over night you may have something turned on that is draining the battery overnight. It could be a water pump, a control unit or an aftermarket device draining the battery slowing. A draw test would then have to be performed.
But these are all guesses since I don’t know exactly what is going on.
What causes my crank neither crank or start? When i press the start button, light on cluster go out and come back with all symbols coming back.
Something like this I would start at the battery. Make sure you have a good battery and the right size. This car should have a 90 AH or 92AH is fine. 900CCA.
@@friendlymechanic9778 well it actually shut off on me multiple times with i was at a stop. Also felt a little bit of a pull while driving.
Okay if the battery is okay I would check for any stored fault codes with a scanner and go from there. There are a lot of things that can cause this a fault code will help steer you in the right direction.
@@friendlymechanic9778 my scanner throwing me a code 2E7C. BSD DARA BUS COMMUNICATION FAULT. i replaced my alternator and nothing changes for that fault code. Car doesn't over heat either.
In the beginning of the video you have a red and blue wire not connected to anything. Where does that hook to
That connector was only used during transport to the dealership. It’s called the battery save switch, it was to keep the battery charged up during transport and it was removed during the PDI (Pre Delivery Inspection).
I have been trying to figure out where that went. Thank you for the reply.
No problem 👍🏼
Are those distribution box universal?
No its best to get the Vin from your car and get the one your car needs.
Workshop for 10 minutes
Anybody Help!!!! I have a 2006 e90, no overheating issues till I had a mechanic work on the oil filter housing because of leaks, everything done, took car out for a drive, after driving for 30 minutes or so, yellow temp light flashes, coolant leaking but dunno from where, Mechanic came, put water and just bled and drove car the whole 1 hour without issue. Third day, tried going out, after 10 minutes, yellow temp flashes again, pulled over, leak around the hose that goes into the oil filter housing. Changed hose, start car for 15 minutes, pump ran and after 15 minutes, yellow temp warning light reappeared with radiator fan cranked high, no leaks. Car cooled down, did self bleed and waterpump ran for over 14 minutes in self bleed mode. Once car is started after 15-18 minutes, temp light flashes, could that be the waterpump or something else? I don't wanna throw money away on another waterpump if that's not the issue. During self bleed and initial start of car, water pump works and seem to squirt water with high pressure and this only lasts for a few minutes before it stops working.
What are the fault codes stored?
@@friendlymechanic9778 U110f and p1024 and scanner used is launch creader. Thank you
Hello. I have just changed my battery on my 2009 E92 320i and I am not able to reset and code the battery. Whenever I get to the screen which tells me to code the batterys size it just sends me back to the starting screen. Is it possible that this is caused by the fuse link?
Hmmm what software or program are you using to program the battery?
@@friendlymechanic9778 I have tried 3 different fault code readers. 1 of them is from a shop local to here and each one of them is able to do this operation. I bought my own Icarsoft cr max and it acts the same way.
Here is a pretty long and accurate description of what happens. Thanks for taking your time reading it...
So first of all, to start this off I had a very bad battery in the car and when the cold started to hit it froze and broke. However we were in the middle of moving so we had to use the car for a couple more days. At this moment it was about -20 to -25° celsius outside. The car had trouble starting but when we had finished moving we tried starting the car one last time to take it for a spin. It did not start so we had to jump the car with my other car and started driving. We stopped for a red light and the car died and it was dead. We were not able to jump the car either so we had to get it towed away. They took the car to a shop and it sat there for a couple of days until the battery i ordered came, we went and changed the battery and drove the car back home and tried resetting and coding the battery and this is where the problem occurs.
I have tried with three different fault code readers that should be able to code the battery. One of the fault code readers is from a local shop that definitely should be able to do this operation and this is what happens. Whenever you plug the fault code reader into the car, you can go to the option where you're supposed to code the battery. If you click that button you get to a screen that says something like "You will now change the size of the battery", press "OK" and it kicks you out to the starting menu again. I bought a new fault code reader which i have available that arrived this week and it is a Icarsoft CR MAX.
I am very familiar with these cars having lots of trouble with low voltage in the battery with immobilizers and all that starts to trouble. But I have very low knowledge of these cars and would really like help from you to debug the issue.
There is no other fault codes than the ones that I know about. Those are both foglights in the front, unplugged to go through the MOT. Right rear brake wear detector which I accidentaly broke while changing the brakes last year and the O2 sensor. I have a exhaustleak which I soon will fix.
If there are any other questions needed to be answered, please ask in the comments and I will answer them. Or else, please give me help to move forward with the problem. What could it be causing this? Where should I start debugging? Would love to get the car running again.
Thanks again in advance...
Thank you for the detailed information. My first question would be what battery was ordered?
Brand?
AGM battery or not?
CCA?
AH?
Date stamp on battery?
Nordmax 85ah 750a SMF. Not sure about the date stamp.@@friendlymechanic9778
I have probably come to the conclusion that it has something to do with the B+ cable. Will start to remove and change out some of the bad cables around.@@friendlymechanic9778
BMW’s SUCK…. Nothin like an old school muscle car battery you can change in 1 min😅