may i ask which electrical components you use inside stealthburner? and also which material is it printed in? abs? Or PCCF? I got lots of problems...im using pheatus dragon HF Oh and btw...never got problems, using no cable chain?
Speaking of which, where did you get the black belts? I've ordered from a couple different places, but the tolerances were really bad. Like 6.18mm in some spots and 5.76mm in others 😬
Yes! I get the Gates-Unitta high temp belts (130C rating). The cheapest place I’ve been able to find is from TriangleLabs, though you can find them a good number of places! Gates LL-2GT E
What is the status of the TriDEX? Inspired by your videos, I am tinkering with IDEX on a 1.8. I got the X belt clearances worked out and klipper configured, but am waiting on parts and a re-wire before pushing any plastic. I anticipate issues with nozzle heights and maybe even x/y offsets between them. Did you hit a roadblock or is the project still moving forward?
Thanks for the comment! I’ve been busy recently so I haven’t had as much time to focus on Tridex. I changed the Tridex parts to gain a bit more Y travel which helps with being able to reach the Z pin, and recently started looking at offset repeatability with TAMV, using a camera to detect nozzle positioning in XY. I need to modify some toolchanger macros in order to get that fully working though!
@@sakatagintoki6065 it s a voron trident the 2.4 is a flying gantry And to answer why it is faster well I do not know the ultimaker but what make a printer fast is mostly how fast you can melt your plastic and how fast can you cool it, the motion is pretty easy to achieve nowadays. Also it s probably running "input shaping" a piece of software that counter the vibration in the motion system and so allow you to print faster without changing any hardware Now that say a Voron or other printer can get WAAAAY faster than that but it s a very good starting point. If you want to see some insane printer you can check "247printing" or "Vez3d" on youtube
UM2 runs at 55mm/s infill, 40 inner walls, 30 outer walls with 3000 acceleration. And it's super noisy due to A4988 (yes on a 2500 Euro printer). No surprise yours is faster. Which acceleration do you use?
not really, sole purpose of voron is speed and accuracy they typically use input shaping, pressure advance and various algorithms to maintain speed and quality, and for me personally I get way better quality prints than a decently tuned ender 3
Ultimakers are used in professional environments where time is money. No one is paying an R&D Engineer $70/hr to fiddle with the belts on a DIY rig like a Voron or Ender. Ultimakers are overhyped but they’re pretty reliable “out of the box”.
If anyone reading this wants to hire me full time at $70/hr to work on 3d printers let me know! Joking aside, professional environments should really purchase something better than an Ultimaker-something that’s more reliable with better print quality. My experience of an Ultimaker in a professional environment has been poor: over extrusion on corners, poor part fitment, areas where a better printer doesn’t struggle.
@@eddietheengineer I'm pretty much the same. Dealing with filament jams for the Makerbot Method X at my current position as a mechanical engineer. It does nice prints but man when it jams out of the blue, it makes me shake my head and say "Yeah, I'm going to print this on my Ender 5 Plus instead... lol". There are pro's and cons to owning a very high end 3D printer that's locked down in proprietary hardware and software. There will soon come a time where most of the headaches we deal with will be a funny memory but nothing beats learning and understanding how to fix and remedy those issues even if it takes someone days or weeks to figure it out.
At my work place we've been through a lot of printers, and its true we look for printers that wont take up R&D Engineer's time. That said, the Ultimakers have been consistently the most unreliable headaches we've used yet. Worse when things break we cant fix them quickly have to wait to order proprietary parts.
@@morbus5726 same problem, crap ton of proprietary parts. It’s a lot studier but when some components eventually wear down (let’s say something like the carbon fiber rod) then you’ll have no choice but to wait for new parts. On contrary you can get pretty much 80% of what you need to do maintenance for the voron after a quick trip to the mall
@@eddietheengineer Hey, I watched your other video about the CAN bus toolhead and have been trying to figure out how it fits to the Stealthburner. Did you have to do any mod to the stock stealthburner? Any link to some guide would be appreciated :) Great work!
may i ask which electrical components you use inside stealthburner? and also which material is it printed in? abs? Or PCCF? I got lots of problems...im using pheatus dragon HF
Oh and btw...never got problems, using no cable chain?
That whizzing sound is nice
Its a beauty, man!
Speaking of which, where did you get the black belts? I've ordered from a couple different places, but the tolerances were really bad. Like 6.18mm in some spots and 5.76mm in others 😬
Yes! I get the Gates-Unitta high temp belts (130C rating). The cheapest place I’ve been able to find is from TriangleLabs, though you can find them a good number of places! Gates LL-2GT E
What is the status of the TriDEX? Inspired by your videos, I am tinkering with IDEX on a 1.8. I got the X belt clearances worked out and klipper configured, but am waiting on parts and a re-wire before pushing any plastic. I anticipate issues with nozzle heights and maybe even x/y offsets between them. Did you hit a roadblock or is the project still moving forward?
Thanks for the comment! I’ve been busy recently so I haven’t had as much time to focus on Tridex. I changed the Tridex parts to gain a bit more Y travel which helps with being able to reach the Z pin, and recently started looking at offset repeatability with TAMV, using a camera to detect nozzle positioning in XY. I need to modify some toolchanger macros in order to get that fully working though!
i got k1 max with cht nozzle to print 340mm/s 40mm³/s reliably. vase mode 58mm³/s
Whatre you running?
Could you please give more information? What is this printing machine and how could it be faster than the ultimate , is it just because of the nozzle?
Voron 2.4 ı think, u can search it.ıts not just about the nozzle
@@sakatagintoki6065 it s a voron trident the 2.4 is a flying gantry
And to answer why it is faster well I do not know the ultimaker but what make a printer fast is mostly how fast you can melt your plastic and how fast can you cool it, the motion is pretty easy to achieve nowadays.
Also it s probably running "input shaping" a piece of software that counter the vibration in the motion system and so allow you to print faster without changing any hardware
Now that say a Voron or other printer can get WAAAAY faster than that but it s a very good starting point. If you want to see some insane printer you can check "247printing" or "Vez3d" on youtube
How are the strength of the parts?
UM2 runs at 55mm/s infill, 40 inner walls, 30 outer walls with 3000 acceleration. And it's super noisy due to A4988 (yes on a 2500 Euro printer).
No surprise yours is faster. Which acceleration do you use?
Sure faster, but your printer produces much worse layer adhesion (and quality) at those speeds. 😮
not really, sole purpose of voron is speed and accuracy they typically use input shaping, pressure advance and various algorithms to maintain speed and quality, and for me personally I get way better quality prints than a decently tuned ender 3
Standard print speed with my Voxelab is 40mm/s but this sucker is moving way faster at 30mm/s
What did I read wrong?
its 30mm/s to the root of three at least thats what i am reading
Ultimakers are used in professional environments where time is money. No one is paying an R&D Engineer $70/hr to fiddle with the belts on a DIY rig like a Voron or Ender. Ultimakers are overhyped but they’re pretty reliable “out of the box”.
If anyone reading this wants to hire me full time at $70/hr to work on 3d printers let me know!
Joking aside, professional environments should really purchase something better than an Ultimaker-something that’s more reliable with better print quality. My experience of an Ultimaker in a professional environment has been poor: over extrusion on corners, poor part fitment, areas where a better printer doesn’t struggle.
@@eddietheengineer I'm pretty much the same. Dealing with filament jams for the Makerbot Method X at my current position as a mechanical engineer. It does nice prints but man when it jams out of the blue, it makes me shake my head and say "Yeah, I'm going to print this on my Ender 5 Plus instead... lol". There are pro's and cons to owning a very high end 3D printer that's locked down in proprietary hardware and software. There will soon come a time where most of the headaches we deal with will be a funny memory but nothing beats learning and understanding how to fix and remedy those issues even if it takes someone days or weeks to figure it out.
At my work place we've been through a lot of printers, and its true we look for printers that wont take up R&D Engineer's time. That said, the Ultimakers have been consistently the most unreliable headaches we've used yet. Worse when things break we cant fix them quickly have to wait to order proprietary parts.
a fully built voron/ratrig needs around the same maintenance as an ultimaker... If you want ease of use and speed without assembly, get a bambu x1
@@morbus5726 same problem, crap ton of proprietary parts. It’s a lot studier but when some components eventually wear down (let’s say something like the carbon fiber rod) then you’ll have no choice but to wait for new parts. On contrary you can get pretty much 80% of what you need to do maintenance for the voron after a quick trip to the mall
Is 30-35mm³/s only achivable with cht om dragon hf?
I just bought a dragon hf and though i should be able to get 30mm³/s without cht
Go buy Goliath hotend, i can push 100mm³ no problem with a steel nozzle LOL
@@mophie6941 goliath on ender3 is kinda overkill 😂😂😂 would have to print with 1.2mm nozzle to make use of the 100mm³/s with the limited speed on e3
How much did you bought this 3d printer and what is the name of it ?
I built this printer! It is a modified Voron Trident with extra insulation around the enclosure and a CAN bus toolhead board
@@eddietheengineer Hey, I watched your other video about the CAN bus toolhead and have been trying to figure out how it fits to the Stealthburner. Did you have to do any mod to the stock stealthburner? Any link to some guide would be appreciated :) Great work!
CHT on a Dragon???
Yes! Dragon HF
Glowing?
Stealthburner nozzle LEDs!
How did u print faster
Klipper + good hardware + linear and pressure advance well tuned and OF COURSE resonance compensation
@@beachwat which printer is better fokoos Odin 5 f3 sunlu t3 3d printer
Show off 🤣