that is some cool stuff man. I'm actually studying electronics engineering right now, so I was able to follow along easily. it would be cool to be able to get a hold of some true UV-C or UVB LED's. those output around 250nm. well under the visible spectrum. so the tracer unit will be really stealthy.
Yes. When doing a suppressor style unit that would be cool but a little more expensive .... One thing you can do is too wire it up so it lights up with the motor (See the installation guide airsofttech.dk/Guides.cshtml?Page=TracerUnit ) so it's only on very shortly ... Another thing you could do is to do an internal install (But it requires you to open the gun) ...
Hi! Thanks for the video. I’ve tried making a suppressor style tracer unit using one 3W UV led. Once tried putting bb through the barrel it glowed perfectly, but it didn’t work once shooting. Can you please suggest the reason of this result? It it because the speed of bb when shooting is too fast for it to glow ?
Planning to do the last module with 9 leds but decided in roads of 3x3 leds to put on a Airsoft shotgun. Any chance you can help me out? I'm quite handy but haven't really knowledge of electronics...
@@AirsofttechDk I appreciate the speedy reply!! Subscribe to our channel and maybe give us a shout out. Trying the grow our channel. We will do the same!
can it achieve the same performance that an off the shelf option can provide? i made one with 2 3w 365nm led and it was a little dim with 700mA on each led of foward current .
What battery did you use for this (could you add a link of where to buy one if that is possible)? Also, would 3W Led's make a significant difference to the Brightness of the BB's?
I used a 7.4v lipo battery... As you can see I attached long wires to the tracer and ran them allong the barrel back to where the gun's lipo was located... So that I just use the same lipo for shooting the gun and powering the tracer unit... Where to get them depends on where in the world you live? 3W led's requires more power per led and gives more light, so you can use less LED's but i would still say at least 2x 3W led with some space (like 3-4 cm minimum) between them ... But that would give 6W total ... that should be fine... just remember to make sure that the buck converter can handle the Watts ....
Hi, been thinking of making a tracer unit of my own, the idea is that I do not want it to stay on the whole time, what I would like to do is to put a sensor in front of the tracer unit which will act as a trigger button. What sensor is small and could I use for this purpose in your opinion ?
Hello, my friend! Thank you for sharing this video! So, I bought some High Power LED UV. Its specs are 3W and 700mA. In your project, you used four 1W/350mA LEDs for the suppressor style. How many LEDs (3W/700mA) will I have to use in order to achieve good results? Will this buck converter do the job? Also, what battery will I need? Thank you so much! Take care!
3W led's usualy is enough with 2-3 spaced with 3-4 cm appart ... 700mah => 0,7 A ... you will need a buck converter that can deliver 2 times the led need (so that i don't get overloaded) ... So 3*0.7 = 2.1 Amp => you will need a 4 Amp Buck converter (3A converter may be enough but it's not all that can sustain 2 amps when they are 3A max ones ...)... As for battery ... When using a buck converter to take it down to 3.3v you can use ANY battery that can deliver more than 5V .... So 7.4 Lipo, 8.4 Nicd, op to 11.1v Lipo MAX ... (So any airsoft battery will doo) ...
AirsoftTech.dk sounds good. I was thinking of using four 3w/3.2V/0.7A LEDs arranged in two strings in parallel with two LEDs each string. If I am not mistaken, I would need 6.4V and 1.4A. This way, I’m thinking of using a 7.5V/2.4A nimh battery, use the buck converter to step this voltage down to 6.4V. Do you think will work?
@@marcosandradejunior Yes that should work ... But when you are using a buck converter to step down the voltage you might as well just wire all of the LED's in paralell ... (Then you wont have problems with batteries not capable of maintaining high voltage while shooting )..... The only benefit of dooing them in series is that the buck converter will be waisting a bit less power ...
hi i'm gonna make one but with photo transistor and low power LED for motion sense, my question is, i'm gonna use NiMH battery which is rated 2000mAh 1.2v x 4 (and arduino uno for testing or attiny13 for deployment)only 3 or 4 Hi power LED like yours with mosfet for switching do i still need buck converter? and some other input will be gratefull
First part: The plug I used is the "jst-xh connector" it's the balance plug for the lipo, but It can be used to supply power as well ... Remember you have to get a 2S or 3S one depending on what battery you use... As for battey you need at least 3W of LED's to light up your BB's to a proper level ... Coin cells can deliver eg. 200 mah at 3V = 0.6W Witch means that with a 3V coin cell your tracer would burn last around ½ hour :-( Not very long .... So yes you can use 3V coin cells, but they won't last very long ...
Is it possible to use a kind of sensor to have it work when bbs fly by just like in a normal tracer as I' want to use it in hpa gun were is no electrics, or at least a blinker/repeter for it to blink when turned on?
@@Ran1906 the plan was to use an IR Photosensor, one where the bb enters and one where the bb exits. I used an MCU called GD32VF193. However, my project failed. The sensors detecting the bb worked fine according to the programming but the LEDs that were supposed light up the bb wasn't powerful enough
I personaly use 2 different kinds (depending on how great i want them to work) ... This is best when using many LED's It can handle around 5-7, 1W led's .... But it's a bit big (So it has to be hidden in a compartment) www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-DC-DC-LM2596-power-Supply-Buck-Converter-step-down-module-NEW-CA/142147326064?hash=item2118a41070%3Ag%3AL1kAAOSwvzRXzOBg&_sacat=0&_nkw=buckconverter&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0 If the link don't work go to ebay and search for "DC-DC LM2596 power Supply Buck Converter" ... When working with 2-3 1W led's (just about enough if they are aranged correctly) i use a much smaler one ... www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-360-DC-DC-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-Mini360-4-75V-23V-to-1V-17V/192340893507?hash=item2cc8691f43%3Ag%3AfFkAAOSwQRla4tnL&_sacat=0&_nkw=Mini+360+DC+Buck+Converter+Step+Down+Module&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313 on ebay search for "Mini 360 DC Buck Converter Step Down Module"
I don't know exactly what you have connected and how, so it's a little hard to say exactly why. But usualy when the LED's flicker it's because the LED driver can't supply enough power (current at the needed voltage) so the driver board shuts off the output charge up the capasitors and turn it on again... This is repeted over and over. on, problem, off, re charge, on, problem, off, etc... To calculate how much the driver (buck converter) needs to handle sum ud the led's current requirements and check that the buck converter is rated to be abel to handle that ammount... I know it's not verry specific but if you go to 7:35 (link below) theres a note: "9x350mA = 5.13A" so if you use 9x1W led's your buck converter will have to handel 3.15 A ... czcams.com/video/Z_QnGPHzm-E/video.html If you want me to do some calculations on your problem tell me what led's you are using and how many ...
I used 9 1w led and a buck converter that says it can handle max of 3A. The buck it goes very hot, and the led are flickering. I order another buck that gives me the option of settling the current as well, I’ll try that as soon as it comes.
FYI: If the buck converter is rated for 3A you should not run it at more than 1.5-2A ... Usualy the 3A rating is because it can deliver bursts of 3A for a short period (E.g to turn on the LED's) but it will then only be capable of running a sustained draw of 1.5-2.5A and most of them recommend adding heat sinks when drawing more than 2A .... So in general (Kind of a rule of thumb) don't draw more than around half the rating ....
Additional note ... The most important factor is the brightness of the LED's (1w led's are perfect) and the time the BB is in the exposed area (The length of the tracer unit)... So using e.g. 4 x 1w led's should be just fine .... that will result in 1.4A current draw ... Just make sure that the first and last LED's are placed in the ends of the tracer, and the 2 others are placed with even spacing ...
that is some cool stuff man. I'm actually studying electronics engineering right now, so I was able to follow along easily. it would be cool to be able to get a hold of some true UV-C or UVB LED's. those output around 250nm. well under the visible spectrum. so the tracer unit will be really stealthy.
Yes. When doing a suppressor style unit that would be cool but a little more expensive .... One thing you can do is too wire it up so it lights up with the motor (See the installation guide airsofttech.dk/Guides.cshtml?Page=TracerUnit ) so it's only on very shortly ... Another thing you could do is to do an internal install (But it requires you to open the gun) ...
I would love to 3D print stuff like that, but not for tracer, but the flash when i shoot :) Can anyone recommend electronics for that?
Are the bbs just regular white or are they special
They are special. You can order them from most airsoft stores, called Tracer BB's.
Hello! Can you make a tutorial about adding a sensor to this tracer unit ?
I May do that in the furure Yes... Subscribe then you will see when it get's done ;-)
Hi!
Thanks for the video. I’ve tried making a suppressor style tracer unit using one 3W UV led. Once tried putting bb through the barrel it glowed perfectly, but it didn’t work once shooting. Can you please suggest the reason of this result? It it because the speed of bb when shooting is too fast for it to glow ?
1 single LED does not have enough time to light it up.. Use 3-5 places evenly spaced in a 10-15 cm tube....
Same here using 1 led won't work
Planning to do the last module with 9 leds but decided in roads of 3x3 leds to put on a Airsoft shotgun.
Any chance you can help me out?
I'm quite handy but haven't really knowledge of electronics...
do you have any recommendations for the bb motion detection sensor because I'm going to use an external voltage source.
I was planning on doing a 12 led setup for a shotgun what buck conversion do you recommend and what board did you use to cone t the strip
The led will always be ON right? Any way to add a sensor to just turn on when bb goes trow?
Hook up a button to your trigger bro
You can just connect the wires to the motor ... then it will only glow with the motor
or just the trigger switch unit.
what element do I have to add so that the LEDs start only when they detect the passing ball in front of the LEDs? (in suspressor idea)
I think it’s more of a codding thing to make it like if motion then turn on
What gauge wire do you recommend?
Well 18 guage wire can handle the current easy .. but you should be able to go as low as 20-22 guage ...
@@AirsofttechDk I appreciate the speedy reply!! Subscribe to our channel and maybe give us a shout out. Trying the grow our channel. We will do the same!
How do you hide the wires
can it achieve the same performance that an off the shelf option can provide? i made one with 2 3w 365nm led and it was a little dim with 700mA on each led of foward current .
If you use some good led's then: Yes it can perform just as good as commercial once...
@@AirsofttechDk this one you showed could achieve the commercial one brightness?
What battery did you use for this (could you add a link of where to buy one if that is possible)? Also, would 3W Led's make a significant difference to the Brightness of the BB's?
I used a 7.4v lipo battery... As you can see I attached long wires to the tracer and ran them allong the barrel back to where the gun's lipo was located... So that I just use the same lipo for shooting the gun and powering the tracer unit...
Where to get them depends on where in the world you live?
3W led's requires more power per led and gives more light, so you can use less LED's but i would still say at least 2x 3W led with some space (like 3-4 cm minimum) between them ... But that would give 6W total ... that should be fine... just remember to make sure that the buck converter can handle the Watts ....
Hi, been thinking of making a tracer unit of my own, the idea is that I do not want it to stay on the whole time, what I would like to do is to put a sensor in front of the tracer unit which will act as a trigger button.
What sensor is small and could I use for this purpose in your opinion ?
I was thinking of an IR beam sensor
Hello, my friend! Thank you for sharing this video! So, I bought some High Power LED UV. Its specs are 3W and 700mA. In your project, you used four 1W/350mA LEDs for the suppressor style. How many LEDs (3W/700mA) will I have to use in order to achieve good results? Will this buck converter do the job? Also, what battery will I need? Thank you so much! Take care!
3W led's usualy is enough with 2-3 spaced with 3-4 cm appart ... 700mah => 0,7 A ... you will need a buck converter that can deliver 2 times the led need (so that i don't get overloaded) ... So 3*0.7 = 2.1 Amp => you will need a 4 Amp Buck converter (3A converter may be enough but it's not all that can sustain 2 amps when they are 3A max ones ...)... As for battery ... When using a buck converter to take it down to 3.3v you can use ANY battery that can deliver more than 5V .... So 7.4 Lipo, 8.4 Nicd, op to 11.1v Lipo MAX ... (So any airsoft battery will doo) ...
AirsoftTech.dk sounds good. I was thinking of using four 3w/3.2V/0.7A LEDs arranged in two strings in parallel with two LEDs each string. If I am not mistaken, I would need 6.4V and 1.4A. This way, I’m thinking of using a 7.5V/2.4A nimh battery, use the buck converter to step this voltage down to 6.4V. Do you think will work?
@@marcosandradejunior Yes that should work ... But when you are using a buck converter to step down the voltage you might as well just wire all of the LED's in paralell ... (Then you wont have problems with batteries not capable of maintaining high voltage while shooting )..... The only benefit of dooing them in series is that the buck converter will be waisting a bit less power ...
hi i'm gonna make one but with photo transistor and low power LED for motion sense, my question is, i'm gonna use NiMH battery which is rated 2000mAh 1.2v x 4 (and arduino uno for testing or attiny13 for deployment)only 3 or 4 Hi power LED like yours with mosfet for switching
do i still need buck converter? and some other input will be gratefull
4x1.2 = 4.8v ... that is more than 3v so YES you need a converter ... I recomend that you watch part 1 ;-) .. czcams.com/video/hVs3d6HAvSc/video.html
Hi, could you tell what you used for wires that go/plug into the battery?
Also, could this be used with a small coin battery instead of a LiPO?
First part: The plug I used is the "jst-xh connector" it's the balance plug for the lipo, but It can be used to supply power as well ... Remember you have to get a 2S or 3S one depending on what battery you use...
As for battey you need at least 3W of LED's to light up your BB's to a proper level ... Coin cells can deliver eg. 200 mah at 3V = 0.6W Witch means that with a 3V coin cell your tracer would burn last around ½ hour :-( Not very long ....
So yes you can use 3V coin cells, but they won't last very long ...
You may also have problems supplying enough power if you only use a single coin cell ... So you may have to use more than one !!!
What exactly types of LED.. Did you use sir thank u
You should realy look at the hele series ;-) Your anwser is in part one ... czcams.com/video/hVs3d6HAvSc/video.html
Is it possible to use a kind of sensor to have it work when bbs fly by just like in a normal tracer as I' want to use it in hpa gun were is no electrics, or at least a blinker/repeter for it to blink when turned on?
Yes, you need a microcontroller. I'm currently working on a similar project
@@orhan3007 what do you plan or use for bb detection? And you're using arduino/pico for that?
@@Ran1906 the plan was to use an IR Photosensor, one where the bb enters and one where the bb exits. I used an MCU called GD32VF193. However, my project failed. The sensors detecting the bb worked fine according to the programming but the LEDs that were supposed light up the bb wasn't powerful enough
Hey have u used 1 LED? i have build one with 9 led's inside but the bb does not light up. what kind of led did you use?
You need tracer bbs
Biru Langit no shit sherlock... how did you find out... 😆😆
kristof vermeulen you Need UV LEDs ULTRA Violet
Hello, I want to build a tracer like yours ( 07:41 - 08:30 ) but i don't know what buck converter to use if you can give me a link, I be very thankful
I personaly use 2 different kinds (depending on how great i want them to work) ...
This is best when using many LED's It can handle around 5-7, 1W led's .... But it's a bit big (So it has to be hidden in a compartment)
www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-DC-DC-LM2596-power-Supply-Buck-Converter-step-down-module-NEW-CA/142147326064?hash=item2118a41070%3Ag%3AL1kAAOSwvzRXzOBg&_sacat=0&_nkw=buckconverter&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0
If the link don't work go to ebay and search for "DC-DC LM2596 power Supply Buck Converter" ...
When working with 2-3 1W led's (just about enough if they are aranged correctly) i use a much smaler one ...
www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-360-DC-DC-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-Mini360-4-75V-23V-to-1V-17V/192340893507?hash=item2cc8691f43%3Ag%3AfFkAAOSwQRla4tnL&_sacat=0&_nkw=Mini+360+DC+Buck+Converter+Step+Down+Module&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
on ebay search for "Mini 360 DC Buck Converter Step Down Module"
AirsoftTech.dk can I use , this one www.aliexpress.com/item/-/1574222761.html
Yes that should be capable (if the info that the listing say is correct) to drive 8-10 1w Led's ...
How much is it in total?
I used around 5-10$ USD...
AirsoftTech.dk how much would it cost if you made me one I’ll PayPal you for your work and supplies ?
ha ha ha i like your idea
i don`t know why but my led`s are flickering.
I don't know exactly what you have connected and how, so it's a little hard to say exactly why. But usualy when the LED's flicker it's because the LED driver can't supply enough power (current at the needed voltage) so the driver board shuts off the output charge up the capasitors and turn it on again... This is repeted over and over. on, problem, off, re charge, on, problem, off, etc...
To calculate how much the driver (buck converter) needs to handle sum ud the led's current requirements and check that the buck converter is rated to be abel to handle that ammount...
I know it's not verry specific but if you go to 7:35 (link below) theres a note: "9x350mA = 5.13A" so if you use 9x1W led's your buck converter will have to handel 3.15 A ...
czcams.com/video/Z_QnGPHzm-E/video.html
If you want me to do some calculations on your problem tell me what led's you are using and how many ...
I used 9 1w led and a buck converter that says it can handle max of 3A. The buck it goes very hot, and the led are flickering. I order another buck that gives me the option of settling the current as well, I’ll try that as soon as it comes.
FYI: If the buck converter is rated for 3A you should not run it at more than 1.5-2A ... Usualy the 3A rating is because it can deliver bursts of 3A for a short period (E.g to turn on the LED's) but it will then only be capable of running a sustained draw of 1.5-2.5A and most of them recommend adding heat sinks when drawing more than 2A .... So in general (Kind of a rule of thumb) don't draw more than around half the rating ....
Additional note ... The most important factor is the brightness of the LED's (1w led's are perfect) and the time the BB is in the exposed area (The length of the tracer unit)... So using e.g. 4 x 1w led's should be just fine .... that will result in 1.4A current draw ... Just make sure that the first and last LED's are placed in the ends of the tracer, and the 2 others are placed with even spacing ...
Part 3 - Has now been made and uploaded.
czcams.com/video/PKpA-gvdREs/video.html
Ugly but work :) nice job!