Unbelievable. I've been scared of the A5 for so long. Your videos meant that Dad's gun finally got the cleaning and protection that it has obviously needed for 50 years. Thanks!!
I have a 1949 A5 made back in Belgium. I took it apart and tried to get it back together. The ammo tube door (I think thats what its called) and the piece that butts up against it were the 2 pieces I could not figure out how to get back in. I got it with the help of this video. I appreciate this channel so much, I would have been 'Screwed' (haha) without it. Thanks a million
Thank you for the excellent assembly and disassembly instructions. I have a Savage 720, S/N 93606, which I bought used in the late '50s. Dragged across the US but never fired or cleaned for sixty years. I'm really pleased on how well it cleaned up. Like Blaine, never would have happened without the videos. Thank you.
Don’t know if you see comments on a 6yr old vid but thank you. Helped me fix an inherited 1964 A5. My grandpas gun . Made the same year I was born. Again, thank you for the videos.
First off. Thank you so much for your help both in that disassembly and reassembly. That being said I got to be honest. There were a couple times where you would install the part and then took it back out to explain how it was installed. That really got me lol
Thank you very much for the disassemble and the reassemble of the Browning A5, I appreciate all the work that went into the video and I totally understand why you charge what you do and I think it’s very modest, you did a great job on the video, you have a new subscriber young man 👍
I just completed another bucket list by buying my first Browning Belgium made light 12 A5(1972). Watched both disass/reass vids and they were extremely helpful. The reassemble was much easier to follow. Thanks a lot for taking the time to show this.
I have a question that you can hopefully answer. Is there a type/brand of shell that seems to work best for the A5 or does it matter? I've heard that some Browning owners shoot only one brand and swear by them. I just want a shell that always ejects with no issues manufacturer wise. Any thoughts?
@@tonywestbrook6436 If you have ejection and feeding issues, replacing the springs is usually the best course of action. Some of them don't fire light loads well and never did even when new. Staying above 1200 fps is usually recommended if I recall correctly for proper cycling on the lighter loads.
Great disassembly and assembly videos , it helped a ton in giving me the know how to give mine the cleaning it desperately needed , everything cycles great now , thanks again
Glad you put a video up on this one ,I`ve had a 1942 mod 720 in good condition for 45yrs and Ive been afraid to give it a good cleaning as I had no Idea of the takedown procedure. But recently got lucky and found a genuine military manual for the 42' 720 and now this video. I was able to give a good cleaning for at least once in it`s live with me. Also put a overhaul spring kit in while I was at it. Thank You for videos of this type.
Thank you for your video that really helped me cleaning an A5 I just purchased that hadn't seen a brush in 50 years :D Keep going that's why I like CZcams !
Thanks for the video. Started off great walking through the steps. But once you got sidetracked talking about running the shop couldn’t really tell what you were doing. Appreciate the help though.
My dad inherited this shotgun to me. Your videos are great. I don’t like the rant you went on about professional vs. amateurs. The biggest issue is we are all amateurs watching your video but, the problem I had was you talking about non-issue things while I’m trying to follow your assembly instructions.
I watched both videos. Just when you got to the part I needed to see, you took the gun off camera and then brought it back into view past the part I needed to see. All I'm trying to do is get the barrel back. But the firing chamber forcing cone portion of the barrel just keeps going all the way up into the receiver and is visible through the ejection port. As a result the bolt either can't close or just gets stuck on something after I release it with the bolt release. SOmething isn't right. I just bought the shotgun a few hours ago. Took the barrel off, wiped things down and now I'm just trying to put the barrel back on. It just seems to go too deep into the receiver.
I got it now. Kept watching different videos until I saw that I had the gas rings on the wrong side of the barrel ring sleeve. The gas rings go directly on top of the spring THEN put the barrel, hand grip and cap on. This is my first autoloader and I only brought it home a couple of hours ago.
Thank you for these A5 videos! I have an FN from early 1920s. I'll probably have to cut the 30" barrel down to 16" or so because the choke portion has a slight bend and damage. I am not too worried about ruining history as the gun has no finish left and the wooden parts are from the 40s. I have not been able to locate new friction ring for my gun, though. I suppose they are less available here in Europe. I only have the brass ring (broken) and its steel retainer ring, missing the steel wedge ring entirely. As is, I can only shoot light loads (the broken brass ring work so-so for those). I'm still hesitant about beating the firing pin retaining pin out. I have to disassemble the bolt because I think my firing pin is broken as it protrudes out of the bolt face way too far (0,5" at least) and feels loose.
Under the Gun oh yes, if I remember correctly the NFA lengths were 18" for a shotgun and 16" for a rifle, and an OAL of 26" or something like that. For us here in Finland it is around 16" for shotguns. However, that 2" extra is nothing to celebrate as our gunlaws are draconian bullshit otherwise. As for the A5, the damage in the barrel is beyond repair, I'm afraid. Someone shot it with a barrel full of snow and there is not only a bend but also a bulge and a crack towards the end in the choke area. I was wondering if anyone here has any experience with shortening A5 barrels. One would think that it is problematic as you are effectively decreasing the recoil-mass.
I thing I have roll pins also in the auto 5 I've got maybe it's a Canadian mod thing. I could not disassemble the breech because the pin does not want to budge so much so that i did bend my small cheap punch
Hi, I watched your disassembly video and it was great, thanks a lot for that. One thing I don't understand so far while watching this (Pardon me if you later explain, I'm only a few minutes in so far) is why the roll pins being used like that is bad. Wouldn't a roll pin be somewhat easier, since you could just use a punch to push it out? Does it cause damage or something? Thanks.
@@UndertheGun After making that comment I researched it a little bit more, and apparently roll pins are actually correct for certain types of Auto-5's, and that the screws were mostly used in older models. Meaning what you have there is either completely factory correct, or was a conversion done later to make an older receiver use some of the same stuff from a newer receiver. Either way, good video.
Ive worked on many of these. Ive never seen a screw in those holes. You punch the roll pins through into the empty receiver. Then pull the parts and during reassembly you simply tap the roll pins down in again from the bottom of the receiver. If a hole that small was threaded and you had to put a driver into a gunked up hole and strip whatever tiny bit head was on it.....you want to talk about a bad day getting something stuck out lol You would be drilling them out and using a roll pin anyways. I dont think I've ever seen one that had screws in those tiny holes and thank fuck!
Aside from spring rebuild kits for the auto 5, what are other concerns or parts to be aware of when buying an auto 5. Can you get replacement parts for the auto 5? What about the Remington 11? Are replacement barrels available?
Excellent video I have Remington model 11 older model with the safety in trigger guard. Everything seems to function normal till I load Shell and fire one it fires bolt locks forward and the only way to seem to get it out is to pull the barrel off any thoughts? I would sure appreciate it. You also mentioned that you would go over some most common worn parts and what to look for. You got talking about all the other cool stuff and didn't mention much on that. I would love to see a video just on that.
After firing the gun can you push the barrel back by hand like you are manually cycling the gun? It can be incredibly difficult to diagnose an issue without having the gun in hand. do you have dummy rounds to put in it and see if it has the same issue when dry fired? I did not go over some of the common issues because the video was running long already. I will have to do a video on just that in the future.
I beyleive some of the a5s come with the roll pins now correct me if im wrong but the Belgian guns had screws the Japanese had roll pins in then i don’t believe it was a modification done to the gun
Great set of videos. We just inherited a 1938. One thing that I am wondering about is lubrication. I noticed that you did not use any oil when reassembling. Are there any parts that need a specific amount of lube? I know too much lube will attract dirt and debris but not enough can cause its own issues.
I wipe it down, put a drop or two anywhere I can't reach readily or don't want to disassemble, and then use compressed air to remove any excess. As long as you have enough for it not to rust, it should have enough for proper functioning.
How tight should the last cap on the foregrip be. Tight so that you need a tool to remove or finger tight for easy finger twist off? Please respond. Also what size machine screw replaces the lost front site bead? Thanks. Great video.
Most of the time that it takes for a gunsmith to do work is simply looking up , locating, buying and then W A I T I N G .......... but the internet is makingthat much better
I just viewed your videos and they are great. Where are you located to send A5’s for repair. I am avid A5 sportsman. There are no gunsmiths in NE Arkansas. Thanks!
Working on a 1929 production one. The action spring tube is broke into the receiver. It will still match up, but makes putting the spring back in more difficult. Looks like the replacement ones don’t even thread in anymore. Is there any reason to try and find a replacement part for it.
I have a Browning A5 12ga Belgium 🇧🇪 built in 1903. Where can I get a video on how to fix the trigger safety. The A5 belonged to my grandfather who bought when he was in the US army in Austria 🇦🇹.
So, I’ve got a 20 gauge Mag Belgian A5 that will NOT cycle. it used to cycle 2 3/4 no problem when the friction rings/breaks were set up according to the manual that came with it and now it will not eject the spent shells. If there’s more than one shell it will try to feed the next before it ejects the first, and when there’s a single shell it just won’t eject. I’ve had it apart and cleaned it as thoroughly as possible with no luck and I have scoured the internet for answers to no avail. If you have any ideas I’d greatly appreciate it!
Thanks for your step by step on your videos I just got a real nice savage 720 military 12 gauge and it needs cleaning in a bad way and I am very mechanically inclined and I just wanted to make sure that I do everything possible to not damage anything which leads me to this question is there anything different between the Browning and the Savage other than mine not having a magazine cutoff?
My question is i just reassembled a Browning Auto 5 just like that one and everything functions fine except when i try to cycle shells through it they come about half way out of the magazine tube and stop. Do you have any suggestions everything’s is clean including the magazine tube i cant see anything wrong with the carrier.
When you are at the point of putting the barrel back and sliding the forearm wood, when you compress barrel to secure the cap, do you make sure the barrel is as far down as it can go and then fully tighten the cap on the wood before letting pressure off the barrel? I have seen the barrel move forward if the cap is not completely tight before releasing pressure on the barrel. I just bought a Miroku KFC model in great condition but noticed when we were checking the chamber, that the barrel moved slightly forward when the gunsmith reassembled it. He was not that familiar with A5's, the older versions. Please advise.
@@UndertheGun How tight is tight? I suppose I would like to know how much of the barrel should be showing at the top of chamber. How many turns of the Cap would be proper? Thanks. I don't want the barrel flying off and I don't want the integrity of the chamber to be compromised. Maybe I am over thinking this.
I have inherited a WWII era A5 whose trigger is stuck backwards (it doesn't return forward so that it can be pulled). I watched your both the disassembly and assembly videos, is it possible to give me a clue on what parts you feel are suspect? I'd like to attempt the repair myself, can you guess which parts are the most likely to be the culprits, and do you think this repair is within the capability of someone who is handy with tools (among other things I am a Certified Apple Computer Repair Technician)? I'd like to try it myself, and once I find the broken part, are replacements readily available? Is this gun valuable enough to try repairing, and if I need to go to a gunsmith, would it be still be worth repairing? I truly appreciate your help. I have watched a few of the CZcams videos on this gun, yours are excellent, so I thought I'd ask... Thanks, Frank
This is the part I believe may be broken www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/trigger-parts/trigger-springs/trigger-spring-prod3857.aspx?avs%7cMake%7e%7eModel_1=Browning__Auto-5 See my disassembly video starting at the 22 min mark. That should show you what you need to fix it.
Well, things were going great right up until I tried to remove the stock. The lock screw popped out easy-peasy, but the stock attachment screw is laughing at me (Can you hear it?). I've shot some WD-40 into the locking screw hole and in the general area of the attachment screw and I'll keep doing so for the next couple of days. I'm afraid I'm going to have to move a zillion tools in the garage to get to my drill press, chuck a screw driver bit up and try to get this screw out\ using the mechanical advantage provided by the press. The main problem here is I had shoulder surgery last week and am in a sling. Maybe I'll find a local smith and do puppy dog eyes and see if he will spin it out for me as soon as I'm allowed to drive... I can smell that spring, it's so close to exposing itself. By any chance, can I somehow pull this spring (I'm following your instructions to the letter) without removing the stock?
You have to remove the stock screw because it threads into the lower tang....which of course....is your trigger group. Try using a "T" handle bit driver while holding the in in a vise between something to protect your finish. You will have way more mechanical advantage and downward pressure. Use 3 in 1 oil instead of wd-40, it will penetrate better.
Hey man, I watched your vid to help me reassemble my A5. I have one question. I have a pin left that I did not see in your vid. I want to say it could be from the original recoil spring but it looks a little skinnier and maybe a touch longer. I ordered the sure cycle kit so it came with a new follower, spring rod and pin in it. I can email you a pic of the pin if you think you could Id it. I also, notice you did not have the trigger assembly blown apart either. Not sure if I missed something in there. Thanks for the vid and the help
Mine has pins/set screws in the holes. note roll pins. The info I got from Browning is roll pins are wrong. Who ever replaced them should have ordered the screw kit from Browning.
Those roll pins might be factory, using your video for help with mine and my auto 5 is the same way. Its a very gently used magnum auto 5 and has nary a scratch from gorilla minded disassembly. Mine is the Japanese made auto 5 from the later years of production of the classic model, so maybe its exclusive to those guns?
Great video but ran into one problem. after reassembly shells do not automatically eject. I suspect something to do with to do with recoil spring rings. Any suggestions?
If your bolt is released by the button and it goes forward and then you try to pull it back again and you can’t move it by hand what could be wrong with it? Is it fixable?
I have a 1964 Browning A5 and I just noticed my forehand is cracked how do I prevent that, I just bought a new one and want to prevent from cracking my new one, I heard the four end must be tight to the action when reassembling the Barrel, should there be any play between action and barrel nut?
I have a family standard a5 browning that has been through a lot of use and abuse now I have hands on it and was wondering about just how I should go about oiling the gun what kind of oil exactly and where to apply it any answer would be great please and thank you
It likely need a deep clean, and lube. You should never use to much lube as it will cause function issues. Clean it good, and then put some oil on a rag and wipe the whole thing down, inside and out.
I was given an a5 20 gauge.. But it has a round jammed in the receiver (where you load it from) how can I take that round out? It won't go up to the chamber either.
That depends on how messed up the thread is. If its completely stripped, you are pretty much hosed. If it is just a little gummed up you could try chasing the threads with a tap. My suggestion is to take it to a qualified gunsmith, or return it to Browning for repair.
Can you show more of installing the feed arm, round 12:20 mark in the video. mine locks outward. From your video looks like I am missing a piece. I have a savage 720.
Are you trying to put it in upside down? your carrier is a one piece, not two piece in my video. Are you trying to install the carrier spring in before the carrier?
I am putting it correctly, it is or will lock back the bolt slide. Forgive me if I am using the incorrect terms. The spring will also only go in one direction. Would it help if I sent pictures?
The concern is the V spring and cartridge lifter. The lifter is locked and will not move upward to load cartridges, unless I push the button to release the bolt if it was locked back
That so-called new A5 is an abomination it should not be referred to as such. J M Browning is mocked by that Thing. The A5 in its original configuration can not be improved upon. Sir your gunsmithing skills are Superb.
Yes but I can’t get to the opposite side to punch out the roll pin. I just see the one hole at the bottom. Do I just punch it all the way through and it drops out inside the carrier? I searched for hours and can’t find an answer
Can I get a more detailed answer? I got the roll pin in fine but to take it out I got to get to the other side to punch out the roll pin. But there is no other side. Do I just keep hitting it through and it drops out somewhere in the carrier?
Your tip about the piece on the trigger group that needs to be pushed out of the way saved my bacon. Thanks!
Unbelievable. I've been scared of the A5 for so long. Your videos meant that Dad's gun finally got the cleaning and protection that it has obviously needed for 50 years. Thanks!!
Glad I could help.
This video really helped me also in cleaning the the gun I inherited from my uncle , 57 year old gun ,what a mess it was , but not anymore
I have a 1949 A5 made back in Belgium. I took it apart and tried to get it back together. The ammo tube door (I think thats what its called) and the piece that butts up against it were the 2 pieces I could not figure out how to get back in. I got it with the help of this video. I appreciate this channel so much, I would have been 'Screwed' (haha) without it. Thanks a million
Happy I was able to help
Thank you for the excellent assembly and disassembly instructions. I have a Savage 720, S/N 93606, which I bought used in the late '50s. Dragged across the US but never fired or cleaned for sixty years. I'm really pleased on how well it cleaned up. Like Blaine, never would have happened without the videos. Thank you.
Glad I Could help
Your video helped me a ton. Thank you for taking the time to put this on here. It's truly appreciated!
Glad I could help.
Don’t know if you see comments on a 6yr old vid but thank you. Helped me fix an inherited 1964 A5. My grandpas gun . Made the same year I was born. Again, thank you for the videos.
You are welcome.
Your video on the classic Auto5 is on par with the best I've seen. Thank you!!!
You are welcome. and thank you
First off. Thank you so much for your help both in that disassembly and reassembly. That being said I got to be honest. There were a couple times where you would install the part and then took it back out to explain how it was installed. That really got me lol
He got ahead of himself and said he meant to do it!!
Thank you very much for the disassemble and the reassemble of the Browning A5, I appreciate all the work that went into the video and I totally understand why you charge what you do and I think it’s very modest, you did a great job on the video, you have a new subscriber young man 👍
Thank you very, very, very much sir for sharing your science ! I could not have re assembled my gun without your help. Very helpful !
You are welcome
I just completed another bucket list by buying my first Browning Belgium made light 12 A5(1972). Watched both disass/reass vids and they were extremely helpful. The reassemble was much easier to follow. Thanks a lot for taking the time to show this.
You are welcome
I have a question that you can hopefully answer. Is there a type/brand of shell that seems to work best for the A5 or does it matter? I've heard that some Browning owners shoot only one brand and swear by them. I just want a shell that always ejects with no issues manufacturer wise. Any thoughts?
@@tonywestbrook6436never had an ammo issue with one.
@@UndertheGun 👍👍👍
@@tonywestbrook6436 If you have ejection and feeding issues, replacing the springs is usually the best course of action. Some of them don't fire light loads well and never did even when new. Staying above 1200 fps is usually recommended if I recall correctly for proper cycling on the lighter loads.
Great disassembly and assembly videos , it helped a ton in giving me the know how to give mine the cleaning it desperately needed , everything cycles great now , thanks again
Right on.
I didn’t know anything about how guns were put together until I found your video’s. Very educational👌. Thank you so much.
Glad I could help.
Glad you put a video up on this one ,I`ve had a 1942 mod 720 in good condition for 45yrs and Ive been afraid to give it a good cleaning as I had no Idea of the takedown procedure. But recently got lucky and found a genuine military manual for the 42' 720 and now this video. I was able to give a good cleaning for at least once in it`s live with me. Also put a overhaul spring kit in while I was at it. Thank You for videos of this type.
Awesome! Glad to help
Great video! Took your time and really bridged the gaps in the reproduced owner's manual for my 1925 A5.
Just adding my thanks for this video. Well shot and well explained! It helped me finally get my old Remington 11 back together.
Thank you so much sir, I watched your disassembly video and you helped me get my new shotgun unjammed, you have a very very cool talent 🙏
Glad I could help
my gun would still be in pieces if it wasn’t for this video. thank you
Lifesaver! Got Grandmas’ 1926 16 gauge cycling smooth now.
Thank you for your video that really helped me cleaning an A5 I just purchased that hadn't seen a brush in 50 years :D
Keep going that's why I like CZcams !
Glad to help.
Lot of help, My Dawia A 500 is a Browning A5 same same but I have a nut in the rear stock to hold the stock on.
This video magically turned my pile of parts into a shotgun.
Glad I could help
So glad I got to see this. Know I can finally do my fathers A5 the cleaning it so badly needs.
Thanks for the video. Started off great walking through the steps. But once you got sidetracked talking about running the shop couldn’t really tell what you were doing. Appreciate the help though.
My dad inherited this shotgun to me. Your videos are great. I don’t like the rant you went on about professional vs. amateurs. The biggest issue is we are all amateurs watching your video but, the problem I had was you talking about non-issue things while I’m trying to follow your assembly instructions.
thank you so much for sharing this fantastic video of reassembly
You saved me a trip to the gunsmith. Thank you!!!
Glad I could help
7 stars nice tutorial very simple,kinder garden for auto 5.
Glad to help
Just wana say thanks alot, your video help me alot, i got my browning back together finally. Your video help me alot, so thanks man, reapect.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Instead of reaching inside to move the safety sear when reinstalling the trigger group, you can simply retract the bolt an inch.
Good idea
Thanks UTG. You bailed me out. I’m good at disassy. Often not so good getting it back together a week or two later.
That why I do this.
I watched both videos. Just when you got to the part I needed to see, you took the gun off camera and then brought it back into view past the part I needed to see. All I'm trying to do is get the barrel back. But the firing chamber forcing cone portion of the barrel just keeps going all the way up into the receiver and is visible through the ejection port. As a result the bolt either can't close or just gets stuck on something after I release it with the bolt release. SOmething isn't right. I just bought the shotgun a few hours ago. Took the barrel off, wiped things down and now I'm just trying to put the barrel back on. It just seems to go too deep into the receiver.
I got it now. Kept watching different videos until I saw that I had the gas rings on the wrong side of the barrel ring sleeve. The gas rings go directly on top of the spring THEN put the barrel, hand grip and cap on. This is my first autoloader and I only brought it home a couple of hours ago.
On fixing stuff there's a little saying that goes, it costs $5 to hit it with a hammer, but $195 to know where to hit it.
About right.
Thank you for these A5 videos! I have an FN from early 1920s. I'll probably have to cut the 30" barrel down to 16" or so because the choke portion has a slight bend and damage. I am not too worried about ruining history as the gun has no finish left and the wooden parts are from the 40s.
I have not been able to locate new friction ring for my gun, though. I suppose they are less available here in Europe. I only have the brass ring (broken) and its steel retainer ring, missing the steel wedge ring entirely. As is, I can only shoot light loads (the broken brass ring work so-so for those).
I'm still hesitant about beating the firing pin retaining pin out. I have to disassemble the bolt because I think my firing pin is broken as it protrudes out of the bolt face way too far (0,5" at least) and feels loose.
Here in the states that's called a felony. Barrels can be bent back and dents raised.
Under the Gun oh yes, if I remember correctly the NFA lengths were 18" for a shotgun and 16" for a rifle, and an OAL of 26" or something like that. For us here in Finland it is around 16" for shotguns. However, that 2" extra is nothing to celebrate as our gunlaws are draconian bullshit otherwise.
As for the A5, the damage in the barrel is beyond repair, I'm afraid. Someone shot it with a barrel full of snow and there is not only a bend but also a bulge and a crack towards the end in the choke area. I was wondering if anyone here has any experience with shortening A5 barrels. One would think that it is problematic as you are effectively decreasing the recoil-mass.
I thing I have roll pins also in the auto 5 I've got maybe it's a Canadian mod thing. I could not disassemble the breech because the pin does not want to budge so much so that i did bend my small cheap punch
Very informative... I wished you had have put a few rounds thru it to show how it operated after you fixed it...
Excellent job brother thanks for sharing the knowledge
I do what I can
skilled labor isn't cheap. cheap labor isn't skilled. anyone who doesn't already know that, will learn it eventually, like it or not.
Hi, I watched your disassembly video and it was great, thanks a lot for that. One thing I don't understand so far while watching this (Pardon me if you later explain, I'm only a few minutes in so far) is why the roll pins being used like that is bad. Wouldn't a roll pin be somewhat easier, since you could just use a punch to push it out? Does it cause damage or something?
Thanks.
Roll pins are a one time use, if you drive them out you are not supposed to reuse them.
@@UndertheGun After making that comment I researched it a little bit more, and apparently roll pins are actually correct for certain types of Auto-5's, and that the screws were mostly used in older models. Meaning what you have there is either completely factory correct, or was a conversion done later to make an older receiver use some of the same stuff from a newer receiver. Either way, good video.
@@koolaidblack7697 You are correct. And that was discussed in earlier comments
Ive worked on many of these. Ive never seen a screw in those holes. You punch the roll pins through into the empty receiver.
Then pull the parts and during reassembly you simply tap the roll pins down in again from the bottom of the receiver.
If a hole that small was threaded and you had to put a driver into a gunked up hole and strip whatever tiny bit head was on it.....you want to talk about a bad day getting something stuck out lol
You would be drilling them out and using a roll pin anyways.
I dont think I've ever seen one that had screws in those tiny holes and thank fuck!
The savages and the very early brownings had e them. This has ben discussed many time in the comments.
Thanks for the detailed video!
Great video!
Thank you so much 🙏
Aside from spring rebuild kits for the auto 5, what are other concerns or parts to be aware of when buying an auto 5. Can you get replacement parts for the auto 5? What about the Remington 11? Are replacement barrels available?
almost all parts are used off another gun, but they are out there.
very nice work thank you
Thank you too!
great video with clear instructions
Glad it was helpful!
The one part of the reassembly i wanted to see you did off video :(
SORRY
Excellent video I have Remington model 11 older model with the safety in trigger guard. Everything seems to function normal till I load Shell and fire one it fires bolt locks forward and the only way to seem to get it out is to pull the barrel off any thoughts? I would sure appreciate it. You also mentioned that you would go over some most common worn parts and what to look for. You got talking about all the other cool stuff and didn't mention much on that. I would love to see a video just on that.
After firing the gun can you push the barrel back by hand like you are manually cycling the gun? It can be incredibly difficult to diagnose an issue without having the gun in hand. do you have dummy rounds to put in it and see if it has the same issue when dry fired? I did not go over some of the common issues because the video was running long already. I will have to do a video on just that in the future.
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you 🍻
I beyleive some of the a5s come with the roll pins now correct me if im wrong but the Belgian guns had screws the Japanese had roll pins in then i don’t believe it was a modification done to the gun
Great set of videos. We just inherited a 1938. One thing that I am wondering about is lubrication. I noticed that you did not use any oil when reassembling. Are there any parts that need a specific amount of lube? I know too much lube will attract dirt and debris but not enough can cause its own issues.
I follow the less is more idea.
I wipe it down, put a drop or two anywhere I can't reach readily or don't want to disassemble, and then use compressed air to remove any excess. As long as you have enough for it not to rust, it should have enough for proper functioning.
Mine has those roll pins too. Springfield/Savage 745b. There's so many models and different manufacturers, maybe one of them has the roll pins stock.
My 1964 A5 sweet 16 has them factory as well. Belgium made.
How tight should the last cap on the foregrip be. Tight so that you need a tool to remove or finger tight for easy finger twist off? Please respond. Also what size machine screw replaces the lost front site bead? Thanks. Great video.
Hand tight is enough, it has a detent to keep it in place. The thread for the bead changed throughout the years.
Most of the time that it takes for a gunsmith to do work is simply looking up , locating, buying and then W A I T I N G .......... but the internet is makingthat much better
yup
The guns have roll pins in them from the factory.
Those roll pins are factory. They come out and go back in fine but you don't want to do it too many times.
I just viewed your videos and they are great.
Where are you located to send A5’s for repair.
I am avid A5 sportsman.
There are no gunsmiths in NE Arkansas.
Thanks!
Working on a 1929 production one. The action spring tube is broke into the receiver. It will still match up, but makes putting the spring back in more difficult. Looks like the replacement ones don’t even thread in anymore. Is there any reason to try and find a replacement part for it.
They started to solder them in. Just buy a replacement tube, drill out the threads to correct size and solder it in.
Under the Gun ok! Thank you!
I have a Browning A5 12ga Belgium 🇧🇪 built in 1903. Where can I get a video on how to fix the trigger safety. The A5 belonged to my grandfather who bought when he was in the US army in Austria 🇦🇹.
Dont know
They were always meant to have roll pins. It wasn’t messed with. The Remington Model 11 has screws.
I have a 1957 made a5 in my shop right now that has screws in it.
I read or saw somewhere that the roll pins are factory original for the later A5s.
I looked into it after I filmed this. They are indeed normal on A5's. It made them cheaper and easier to produce.
So, I’ve got a 20 gauge Mag Belgian A5 that will NOT cycle. it used to cycle 2 3/4 no problem when the friction rings/breaks were set up according to the manual that came with it and now it will not eject the spent shells. If there’s more than one shell it will try to feed the next before it ejects the first, and when there’s a single shell it just won’t eject. I’ve had it apart and cleaned it as thoroughly as possible with no luck and I have scoured the internet for answers to no avail. If you have any ideas I’d greatly appreciate it!
Broken ejector or extractor
Under the Gun thank you!
@@grumpjitsubjj5510 you are welcome.
The newer ones used roll pins. Use a roll pin punch to remove.
Has been covered in many other comments.
Thanks for your step by step on your videos I just got a real nice savage 720 military 12 gauge and it needs cleaning in a bad way and I am very mechanically inclined and I just wanted to make sure that I do everything possible to not damage anything which leads me to this question is there anything different between the Browning and the Savage other than mine not having a magazine cutoff?
Not a whole lot. This vid should be all you really need.
My question is i just reassembled a Browning Auto 5 just like that one and everything functions fine except when i try to cycle shells through it they come about half way out of the magazine tube and stop. Do you have any suggestions everything’s is clean including the magazine tube i cant see anything wrong with the carrier.
When you are at the point of putting the barrel back and sliding the forearm wood, when you compress barrel to secure the cap, do you make sure the barrel is as far down as it can go and then fully tighten the cap on the wood before letting pressure off the barrel? I have seen the barrel move forward if the cap is not completely tight before releasing pressure on the barrel. I just bought a Miroku KFC model in great condition but noticed when we were checking the chamber, that the barrel moved slightly forward when the gunsmith reassembled it. He was not that familiar with A5's, the older versions. Please advise.
Not as far as it will go just as far as you need to make the cap tight.
@@UndertheGun How tight is tight? I suppose I would like to know how much of the barrel should be showing at the top of chamber. How many turns of the Cap would be proper? Thanks. I don't want the barrel flying off and I don't want the integrity of the chamber to be compromised. Maybe I am over thinking this.
@@GS-of7pp The cap will bottom out. dont over think it.
Very good well explained brilliant
Thank you.
In reference to the plug . That is consider an improperly plugged shotgun .
I have inherited a WWII era A5 whose trigger is stuck backwards (it doesn't return forward so that it can be pulled). I watched your both the disassembly and assembly videos, is it possible to give me a clue on what parts you feel are suspect? I'd like to attempt the repair myself, can you guess which parts are the most likely to be the culprits, and do you think this repair is within the capability of someone who is handy with tools (among other things I am a Certified Apple Computer Repair Technician)? I'd like to try it myself, and once I find the broken part, are replacements readily available? Is this gun valuable enough to try repairing, and if I need to go to a gunsmith, would it be still be worth repairing?
I truly appreciate your help. I have watched a few of the CZcams videos on this gun, yours are excellent, so I thought I'd ask...
Thanks,
Frank
This is the part I believe may be broken
www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/trigger-parts/trigger-springs/trigger-spring-prod3857.aspx?avs%7cMake%7e%7eModel_1=Browning__Auto-5
See my disassembly video starting at the 22 min mark. That should show you what you need to fix it.
Thank you! I assume you are not located in the west Chicago suburbs, I’d drop by tomorrow to thank you in person...
HAHA....No.....I am in a free state.
Well, things were going great right up until I tried to remove the stock. The lock screw popped out easy-peasy, but the stock attachment screw is laughing at me (Can you hear it?).
I've shot some WD-40 into the locking screw hole and in the general area of the attachment screw and I'll keep doing so for the next couple of days. I'm afraid I'm going to have to move a zillion tools in the garage to get to my drill press, chuck a screw driver bit up and try to get this screw out\ using the mechanical advantage provided by the press. The main problem here is I had shoulder surgery last week and am in a sling. Maybe I'll find a local smith and do puppy dog eyes and see if he will spin it out for me as soon as I'm allowed to drive...
I can smell that spring, it's so close to exposing itself. By any chance, can I somehow pull this spring (I'm following your instructions to the letter) without removing the stock?
You have to remove the stock screw because it threads into the lower tang....which of course....is your trigger group. Try using a "T" handle bit driver while holding the in in a vise between something to protect your finish. You will have way more mechanical advantage and downward pressure. Use 3 in 1 oil instead of wd-40, it will penetrate better.
Fantastic video , top class , thank you
Hey man, I watched your vid to help me reassemble my A5. I have one question. I have a pin left that I did not see in your vid. I want to say it could be from the original recoil spring but it looks a little skinnier and maybe a touch longer. I ordered the sure cycle kit so it came with a new follower, spring rod and pin in it. I can email you a pic of the pin if you think you could Id it. I also, notice you did not have the trigger assembly blown apart either. Not sure if I missed something in there. Thanks for the vid and the help
Is there any added benefit to put a dab of medium strength blue loctite on the retaining screws or does it not matter a whole lot
I would not
Mine has pins/set screws in the holes. note roll pins. The info I got from Browning is roll pins are wrong. Who ever replaced them should have ordered the screw kit from Browning.
Why is there a wide brass ring with the friction spring around it like you show and others that have one thin brass ring and NO friction spring?
Different generations
Those roll pins might be factory, using your video for help with mine and my auto 5 is the same way. Its a very gently used magnum auto 5 and has nary a scratch from gorilla minded disassembly. Mine is the Japanese made auto 5 from the later years of production of the classic model, so maybe its exclusive to those guns?
Great video but ran into one problem. after reassembly shells do not automatically eject. I suspect something to do with to do with recoil spring rings. Any suggestions?
If your bolt is released by the button and it goes forward and then you try to pull it back again and you can’t move it by hand what could be wrong with it? Is it fixable?
Anything can be repaired. It depends on how much money you want to spend. Check your mag cap to make sure its tight.
Hey man where are you located? Didn’t know if you were close enough for me to use.
Shoot me an email.
I have a 1964 Browning A5 and I just noticed my forehand is cracked how do I prevent that, I just bought a new one and want to prevent from cracking my new one, I heard the four end must be tight to the action when reassembling the Barrel, should there be any play between action and barrel nut?
Excellent video.thank you
I have a family standard a5 browning that has been through a lot of use and abuse now I have hands on it and was wondering about just how I should go about oiling the gun what kind of oil exactly and where to apply it any answer would be great please and thank you
It likely need a deep clean, and lube. You should never use to much lube as it will cause function issues. Clean it good, and then put some oil on a rag and wipe the whole thing down, inside and out.
Thanks a million your video is very helpful as well
I was given an a5 20 gauge.. But it has a round jammed in the receiver (where you load it from) how can I take that round out? It won't go up to the chamber either.
Id have to have it in hand to tell you.
Very good video .
Thank you
My Auto 5 has roll pins... Thing that's how they shipped
It has been discussed many times here. that was a later update to make it cheaper to produce.
On my browning it has 2 springs under the fore arm stock
That is 2 recoil springs
How would I fix a messed up thread on the receiver
That depends on how messed up the thread is. If its completely stripped, you are pretty much hosed. If it is just a little gummed up you could try chasing the threads with a tap. My suggestion is to take it to a qualified gunsmith, or return it to Browning for repair.
I wanna master the a5. Thank you!!
My Japanese a5 magnum has a crimped magazine tube so would I still be able to push the follower out the way you did ?
Yes, sometimes it takes some force.
Some one was the factory.
Hi
Does this precision have a cut? I have been searching for a piece for years and have not found it in my country
I don't understand the question.
@@UndertheGun
Where can I find these spartan pieces?
I have one that won't cycle the round no movement of the barrel when fired. I can push it down no problemThanks grady
You are probably shooting low brass with the friction rings in the wrong order.
Thanks but I have tried all shells, bird shot and hi brass buck shot with no luck.
I have also checked the friction rings.
Grady
I would have to see the gun. There are many things that can be causing that. Take it to a competent gunsmith.
Thanks it says 3" on the barrel but it should shot 23/4 aolso
Am I correct on this?
Thanks
Yes It should cycle 2 3\4 shells.
Can you show more of installing the feed arm, round 12:20 mark in the video. mine locks outward. From your video looks like I am missing a piece. I have a savage 720.
Are you trying to put it in upside down? your carrier is a one piece, not two piece in my video. Are you trying to install the carrier spring in before the carrier?
I am putting it correctly, it is or will lock back the bolt slide. Forgive me if I am using the incorrect terms. The spring will also only go in one direction. Would it help if I sent pictures?
Yeah, If I could see what's going on, I might be of greater help.
How can I send them?
The concern is the V spring and cartridge lifter. The lifter is locked and will not move upward to load cartridges, unless I push the button to release the bolt if it was locked back
Dude. Good video until you would shut up about how important you are. We just want to learn how to put the gun together.
Anyone know why my bolt won’t lock back after reassemble?
You reassembled it wrong.
That so-called new A5 is an abomination it should not be referred to as such. J M Browning is mocked by that Thing. The A5 in its original configuration can not be improved upon. Sir your gunsmithing skills are Superb.
I don't think it should have been given the name A5. It is an insult to our lord John M. Browning.
How to you get the roll pin out of the carrier latch? I put my carrier latch in backwards so how can I get it out? Please help 😢
Roll pin punch, or drill it out.
Yes but I can’t get to the opposite side to punch out the roll pin. I just see the one hole at the bottom. Do I just punch it all the way through and it drops out inside the carrier? I searched for hours and can’t find an answer
Can I get a more detailed answer? I got the roll pin in fine but to take it out I got to get to the other side to punch out the roll pin. But there is no other side. Do I just keep hitting it through and it drops out somewhere in the carrier?
@@calebSLO just drive it all the way through.
@@UndertheGun so it wouldn’t go through so I drilled it and the bit BROKE. So is there a way to get to the other side of the hole?
Can you just explain the reassembly and tips and tricks to doing so. Nobody cares how you treat your customers and what you charge.
you act like I owe you something.
Brother can anyone gives me details of those ring which is fitted below de magazine spring plz
What info do you need?
In this video you fitted that ring at 23:40
@@UndertheGun can yo text me on whatsapp 03104650750 plz
I lost that ring
I will send you the picture
No. You can google the friction rings and order new ones.
You should show what your foing more and talk on the subject