During the 'off-season' I store my Belgian A5's and Model 11 with the magazine cap and forearm slightly loose. Don't tighten it completely or a crack will develop in the base of the wood forearm. How many old Belgium A5's have you seen with a crack there? That's why. A super tightened magazine cap for years at a time. P.S. I'm glad you mentioned the screws on a A5 are 'clocked' to be in it its certain, original threaded hole. You are the ONLY 'smith that I have ever heard mention this. Congrats!
I have a very early (early 30s) Belgium A5 that my greqt Grandfather bought and handed down each generation. I am trying to restore it, and it is cracked at the base of the handgaurd. I'm hoping I can repair it and not lose the original wood.
@@darren6951 That can be 'fixed', but depending on the length of the crack, it might still be visible afterwards. I have repaired these types of cracks by removing the forearm and tracing the crack with a dremel tool with a rounded bit about a 1/8 wide from the INSIDE of the forearm. Don't go through the wood, just a 1/8 of an inch or so. Fill that trough you've created with the dremel with epoxy. I use JB weld.
@@darren6951 I also inherited a 1930s Belgian A5 from my great grandfather. This is great advice, no cracks yet but will now loosen when not in use. Thanks for the tip
I never comment on videos but Jesus I just wanted to know what time it was, not how the clock was made. The title is misleading. Should say, "Browning Auto 5 History Lesson and Disassembly"
Well it was rather easy. He just turned on his computer, opened up the ''Auto-Cad'' program & started using that mouse...... And the rest is History....
I have a 20ga A-5, Belgium, my father bought for his Dad in 1956. My Grandfather passed in 1957 and never fired it. My Dad paid $125 for it, I have the sales receipt. In the last 64 years it’s been fired 3 times. It’s had 28 rounds through it. Obviously it looks BRAND NEW, not a blemish, not a scratch, the blueing is like the day it was purchased. BEAUTIFUL piece. I’m going to shoot some clay with it just to fire it when spring rolls around. This video was VERY HELPFUL in disassembly and cleaning. Not much cleaning required. I’m a very lucky guy.
Thanks so much for these two videos on the A5. I just picked up a 1958 Light 12, which is pretty much in factory mint condition, (except the bolt was jamming when you tried to pull it back, hence a bargain purchase) . After watching the videos twice, I followed your procedures in the videos. This gun had never been apart, as there was no screw marks and the stock was really on super tight. Following your video made it all easy, as I knew what to expect. Anyway, when the butt stock finally came off, a small part fell out of the receiver, that must have been the reason for jamming the bolt. I quickly learned from the video that it was the sear, and I also discovered that the sear spring and sear spring follower were missing. After completely disassembling, cleaning, and inspecting everything, the list of parts needed was small; sear spring & follower, recoil spring, and the action spring with both action spring end pieces. The only thing I had to figure out on my own was getting the carrier spring back in correctly, as its the older style with the pin in the receiver instead of the trigger group like in your video example. Its all back together now, it looks, feels and shoots like new. Your videos made this very easy to follow. I picked up a Wheeler screwdriver set before I started, leaving no marks on the screws when done. I was very careful, labeled everything and it would be very hard to tell it had ever been apart. Thanks again...
Rock on dude. My light twelve was my best friend’s dad’s. He taught me to use it in high school. When he died, it went to my friend and I bought it from him. It’s a work of art.
I’ve got 2, One a 12ga and the other a short action 16ga, both with original receipts. They were made right prior to the Nazis invading. Grandfather bought them just after WWII ended, when FN was selling to US servicemen. They have huge sentimental value to me!
I love mine. Got it in a trade a few years ago for a guitar. Finally pulled it out and went shooting. It's an excellent piece and I thank God I kept it! Thanks for the info/video!
I received a 12-gauge Belgian-made Auto-5 yesterday that clocks as an early 1946 model based on the serial number. It was bought new by my great great granddad after WW2 and has been passed down through the family. I can tell it got its fair share of use because it is dirty as heck and most of the screws were already noticeably buggered as I was stripping it down. The magazine stop screw is so buggered I didn't have a head that could unscrew it without further damage so I just left it alone. Now I just need to clean the thing and get it back to working order. Videos like these are so helpful, even with the guesswork of differences like the singlepiece carrier, trigger guard push safety and the like that mine has.
Just got a sweet 16 that my grandpa bought for my grandma back in 1962 so definitely wanted to find something about disassembly since it’s been 15 or so years since I had a Remington model 11.
I just got my father's 16 ga few months ago from Morocco. They were holding that gun for 12 months from entering the US, I don't know why, probably they were confused at customs between 16 ga and F 16. I love it, I shot it in 1984 as my first.
I can remember going to visit my grandmother at browning in arnold. We would go in the front door an exit thru the warehouse. There would be pallets of boxed guns an the smell of oil and machinery. Always thought as a kid john browning was just in the back making guns. Yep he was a genius
Been working there for a year now and I love it.. they don't understand how I'm always so chipper and I told them I love I truly love guns and the history behind em.
Saving this one.. Might be 6yrs old but is exactly what I needed.. I have my "new to me" A5 sitting at my buddy's house waiting for me to come get it.. Will be reviewing this vid again and breaking down the new addition tonight. Might try to disassemle the trigger at a later date but for now this vid is perfect.. I appreciate how you explain and discuss the parts w/ multiple variations over the years.. Good stuff & hope to find more useful vids on your channel 🥂
I have a beautiful A5 in 20 gauge 1957 vintage. the receiver is engraved and it is the lightweight vent ribbed version. Just beautiful and fires like a dream.
thank you for teaching me about the a5's my family inherited a 12 and 16 ga and it means a lot to hear the history behind such a wonderful firearm. thanks and happy new year.
Thank you for putting this out. I own this exact shotgun. It was my fathers and I got it when he passed away. It has to be at least 50 years old. Its in about the same shape. I have been trying to clean it properly as it has never truly been cared for properly. I wanted to get inside it to clean it up from all the years of grime thats inside of it. Now I can. I also have a sweet 16 gauge Belgium Browning that my grandfather left fro me when he passed. It is probably 60 years old. I imagine the internals are about the same. Its in need of work as well.
You saved my tail, brother! Thanks for the vids (disassembly and reassembly). I told my customer shotguns, especially old shotguns, are not my certification, but he wanted me to sort out his grandfather's Auto-5 anyway. Had to replace his locking block, charging handle, and left extractor (a nightmare finding parts for a 1942ish Auto-5). Anyway thank you! His grandfather's SG is returned to its former glory and the customer is happy, happy, happy!
I have been searching the internet all night trying to find a video or information on the switch that blocks the magazine nothing out there thank you for doing this video 6 years ago to help me understand what that switch is for on the A5 I have just purchased today
That looks identical to my late Fathers Light 12, his was manufactured in 1969 with that same square grip. My Grandfathers A5 was a 1957 model with the classic rounded grip. Such an iconic shotgun, so well made I hunt with them to this day, with proper cleaning I’ve never had a jam.
I know it's a little late, but I looked at the police photos, and yes, it's a remington model 11 in 20ga that Kurt used. Also, surprisingly, he owned an ar15 as well, which I found interesting.
Thank you. Great video. I myself own the Browning A5, with a chamber of 65mm. I do not know exactly the year of release, probably 1960. The weapon is excellent, except that the cartridges are 65 mm long. Do not let go. You have to charge yourself. Yours faithfully from Russia.
I have a 1929 16 Gauge A5, and most of the lock screw heads are stripped; so unfortunately, I'll have to tap and die them to get them out. Thankfully, I can get a whole set of lock screws for $25 online. Aside from that (and black gunk and junk ALL OVER the internals), take down and cleaning has been a pinch. So thanks for your in depth instruction, it really helped!
Thank you so so much for this. I just picked up a Savage copy of this and it seems to be an early model, but it’s very close to this particular weapon. This is extreme melt helpful and well done, and it helped a lot.
Yes, I got mine, ( Made in Belgium in 1951), that also came with a Slug Barrel, plus an LTD 40 channel CB with a builtin 800watt Linear from my neighbor for $800 in 1996. It's been oiled several times & since it's my nicest piece, I haven't fired it yet. So in July, I'll have had it 25 years. Maybe this year I'll take it out with my sons & grandsons...
@@montydaniels1054 yep. Seem like great guns. First thing I noticed was how smooth the action is. I’ve got two boys and when they’re old enough, each will get one of them as his first shotgun. Great guns.
@@marke3623 Yes Mark & well made too. I was holding this Browning up to the Winchester 1400 & man oh man what a difference between the two. ( Mine came with the 2nd optional Slug Barrel. I've seen them pretty reasonably priced online) Even if you're not paying any attention to the engraving the Browning has, you can see just how much more went into them than the Winchesters. Just like you, my oldest son asked if he could have it instead of his brother. I said it always was his first but he'll have to do the talking if his younger brother seems slighted or seems to show more interest. Good thing I'll have enough of a selection that they'll both feel good with whichever they end up with...
@@montydaniels1054 I had to start buying 2 of everything my daughter turned out to be just as fine a shot as her brother. Now with step Children I’m working on a arming a small army when I pass.
@@larrypostma2866 Larry, I know that feeling. I have one son & a grandson that are left handed. Because my x-son in law takes Stevie target practicing & hunting every year now, I'm already replacing rifles because he finds it too hard shooting a R/H Rifle. lol it's expensive but worth it... My daughter has been bugging me for some of my firearms but I've opted to help outfit her with some newer ones.... So being a Father & Grandfather in a family where Gun Ownership is important, I don't mind doing it for them....
I took a friend of mine's 1930's FN gun dove hunting a kajillian years ago and bought the gun from him that day. I Love the old hump back and use one to this day.
My dad have the same gun, 35+ years of firing and never been disassembled only minor cleaning and lubrication by removing the barrel. I don’t know how the hell JM. Browning came up with this legendary design. A very informative video man thanks.
Thanks for the vid. Have my grandpas model 11 16 gauge. Was having trouble with ejection and looked up how to properly clean it in case I cleaned it wrong. But thanks to you I just realized I'm missing the steel friction ring. Also thought the two holes in receiver were oiling holes, lol. Thanks again.
I imagine you've figured it out by not but the retaining pins you were expecting to be small flat head screws for the magazine disconnect and bolt release are actually roll pins that need driven out with a long punch.
Not sure if this was eventually covered but it’s important to let folks know that those “screws” you couldn’t figure out how to remove are not screws at all. They were not replaced with hex heads or any other fastener. They are “roll pins” You need a roll pin punch set to drive them out. The Remington Model 11 used screws. Also would have liked it if you eventually told us how to remove the cartridge plunger head from the tube. You said you would do that. Otherwise good video.
I inherited an a5 chambered in 16ga. It's an odd round, 2 9/16in shells. It was my grandmother's, it's old, and from Belgium. After seeing this, I'll just take it to a professional for maintenence.
Wow that’s pretty cool, it’s got the friction ring adjustment directions inside the forearm, I had to do a lot of research online to finally find the directions settings for my Remington model 11-20 gauge
Great video on the dissebly of these great shotguns. I have a 1922 model 11 Remington that the action is gummed up and your video gives me confidence to disassemble it and see if I can get it working again. Thanks! I mean no offense, but wanted to clarify the history from my understanding. The Remington model 11 was manufactured by Remington until 1926, after that Brownings were manufactured by FN in Belgium until Hitler invaded Belgium. Browning, then licensed Savage arms to build them from approx 1940-1947 as the model 745 (I own one of these). In 1948 Remington sold it again as the Model 11-48. Eventually after WWII, production went back th FN in Belgium.
Verney Carron & Luigi Franchi ARC (A Recul de Canon = barrel long recoil ) are out equivalent here in western Europe. We can find FN made Auto 5 too but they cost like 1500$ ...
It's funny Browning never reinforced the fore ends of the A5's to prevent wood splits. You see a lot of them that have that issue. Wondering if they were shot with heavy loads and the wrong inertia rings in place? Loved mine and it was wicked deadly on upland birds. I'm looking for another one for this coming season.
One of these will be my next purchase. I'd like to find one in 12 ga or even 16 ga with improved or modified vent rib barrel. would like to just use it occasionally for clays and doves and just to have and enjoy. Very well built shotguns.
My action spring follower doesn't want to come out the end where pin and plug is. So when I put together my light 12, I forgot about it and I already put back my bolt and trigger pack. Such a pain! Also mine has a one piece lifter and the receiver mounted flat spring.
Surprised you didn’t explain about the bronze friction ring and the bevel ring on the magazine tube, as adjusting this determines how much recoil is taken out when firing heavy loads as compared to Lt. Loads. I started shooting Auto-5’s in 1958 and watching you shoot that Browning and the tremendous recoil you were getting it is quite apparent you have it set for Lt loads. 😳 I have never seen an Auto-5 kick like yours 😳 I would take the forearm off and set it for heavy loads and change the recoil spring. ps I have my original 1958 Auto-5 that my Dad bought in Belgium in 1958 and other Browning Auto -5’s etc..& after 40yrs. I ordered another recoil spring from Browning and the old spring was compressed about 1.5-2” inches compared to the new spring. It was obvious the old spring had lost a lot of compressibility and needed replacement to reduce recoil. and every gas operated shotgun I have used have a noticeable harder recoil than my Auto-5’s
I'm a (75Y.O. retired Engineer/Musician) NEW gun owner and collector. (Yes Virgina, SOME "Liberal Socialists" DO like - and HAVE - guns.) It's my new hobby, since docs say I must give up vintage kart racing. One of my first acquisitions is a Rem. Mod.11 20Ga ("American Browning" A5) - ACTION Only. (I got a barrel and buttstock elsewhere.) THANK YOU for the BEST and most complete functional description and takedown video I've seen on CZcams! (BTW-LOVE your replies to comments from the insulting trolls...)
Thank you for explaining the friction ring system. The guy I bought my A5 12 light from had no idea how it worked and I haven't seen anybody post a close up video that actually knew how it worked either.
I got the trigger apart and I took that little detail it out and it shot across the garage like a rocket. Lol. Thank God I found it though. I was worried I wasn’t going to find out for anything
Those three little holes in the bottom hold roll pins which retain the cartridge stops. The holes are thru to the inside (look thru the ejection port and you can see the passage way). Use the correct size roll pin punch and drive them from the bottom and out the inside. Reinstall from the bottom.
Great video. I know they are basically the same functionally, but mine for sure has some key differences. Having some trouble and can’t find exact video on it. I think mine may actually be the 720 16ga. Been having trouble getting info on it in general too. Pretty sure I figured out it was from 1935?
my pin in the bolt will not come out. I have beat on it for hours now and will not budge, on exposed side of bolt it looks to be clear of any pinging over. I have put far more force than i care to on this browning. any suggestions?
I can’t find any description or instructions on what that vertical little rectangular “button” above the magazine disconnect lever does/is. Never had my hands on one of these before. Other than the mystery “button”, this 1928 has a problem as when attempting to load a shell underneath, the “plate” won’t depress to allow the shell to be loaded. I have no idea what that’s about.
I have Savage 775A that was grandfather's. The spring on the left side of the trigger assembly is placed on the inside of the receiver. Fell out during disassembly. Cannot get gun to function correctly. Also, the trigger will not reset when assembled. Has been disassemble once before by someone else. Large paperweight at this time.
So what would happen if you took out the disconnector, put the trigger assembly back in and tried cycling a few rounds through it? Could you hold the trigger down and keep cycling rounds or would something else happen?
Interesting, I thought the bolt would go back enough to recock the hammer and with the disconnector gone you could keep it cycling. I'm assuming with that part gone the hammer falls forward with the bolt and not enough momentum is applied to the firing pin which would leave an unfired round in the chamber correct?
I just got one in sad shape. It's missing the stock, recoil spring assembly, including the tube that goes in the stock, lift spring, trigger receiver screws. It makes me wonder if it was taken apart that much, is there likely a major problem, or they just couldn't figure how to reassembled it. It seems to cycle fine, less the springs of course, and the FCG seems to function. Is it worth fixing or should I scrap it?
The best disassembly manual I've ever seen...thanks a lot ! I own a FN-16 built in autumn 52 (means bolts for carrier latch and magazine lock but they came off easily and one piece feeder without the fast feeding option)...but it has some trouble with the carrier latch which has been bent/ modified/filed by some idiot....little 16 just doesn't cycle as she should (loads "jump" back when loading instaed of being hold by the carrier latch) and spare parts for a 16 gauge are unavailable here in Germany (and US companies don't send to Germay whyever)...any ideas how I couls get the carrier latch back into shape so it works ?
I have watched your video several times and enjoy it! The main thing I don't understand is how the carrier know when to function, is there a cam track somewhere I can't see ? It seems to work like magic.
I can take my 870 down no problem but there is absolutely 0.0 chance that I am going any further than pulling the barrel. Holy hell. Nope, nope, nope. 👍🇺🇲
Hey man thanks for the video, I just purchased one at a gun show and when I bought it everything was working good the slide and action no problem. When starting to take it apart just to give it a thorough clean I got to the part where you had to punch the pin out of the receiver to get it out. My gun does not have the notch to line up the pin to punch it out so I lined it up with the other side and tried to to do that. Well now my receiver does not slide back and forth at all. and just gets stuck. Any help would be appreciated.
1. What snap shot brand do u use for this gun? __________________ 2. Help! The snap cap in the chamber kant b removed. How do u remove dat dummy shell out of the chamber? ________________ Detail: ===== I just used Tripple K clear plastic dummy round n it bounced out of the magazine n lodged at top of the loading tongue. The shell was angled upward, pointing at the chmbr but it felt like its butt rim was stuck below. I then have to open the breech by pulling the bolt hndle back, then used my fingers to bring the shell up into the chamber. But after i closed the bolt n 'fired' it, the shell got stuck in the chmbr n couldn't get it out. Kant even pull the handle back to open it. The quick-load lever on the LH side was n still is in the forward position and i kant even move dat lever either. What's going on? Pls help!!! I'v gotten the magzn cap off and try to go from there. The outer surface of the steel magz tube is also in pristine cond. Looks like i need to remove the bbl off the rcvr, then use a cleang rod to bang it out??? But still, what's the mystery of getting the dummy round stuck in the 1st place? ________________ I've compared dat Trppl K dummy round's (2nd one, they're sold in pairs) of 16Ga w Wnchstr 16Ga Super X, 2 3/4" 1,295ft/sec, 1 1/8Oz, #7.5's diam. at the top of the shells and at their base. Both the dummy n the real rounds(took 3 shell meas average) w a caliper and both had .740 at the base but the Dummy had .730 at the middle of the cylinder vs. .720 for the longer real shell. Yes, the shell's brass base for the real round makes it fatter there. So, the only diff is dat the dummy is only 2 1/2"L vs. 2 3/4"L for the real shell. 3. This Swt 16 is made by Miroku n it looks like it was never fired, stocks hv only like 3 shallow marks, n metal have no scratches or wear, it's in pristine condition. The loading tongue (or whatever u may call it) has no scratches at all, vertically or in parallel.
@Under the Gun. Hey, great video BTW, I totally enjoyed you sharing the knowledge & brief history lesson. I thought they were made in Belgium till 1952? Mine is a 1951 also came with a slug barrel.. Anyone know? I just remember hearing that during the war 2 a company in Belgium also manufactured the A-5..... Also told by a gun shop were not worth much.... Right... Hope you catch for a reply to value of a solid 9 out of 10 A-5. (Mine has more etching on the stock & engraving too)...
I have two sweet sixteens. I have a 63’ that my Dad gave me ax a kid. I love it, it shoots well, and kicks like a mule. There’s a big difference in my gas operated 1100 Remington and my recoil operated Browning. Thanks for the vid!
Answering as only a fellow shooter and not a gunsmith, my experience with the Auto 5 is that you can order a refurbish kit that includes the action spring(the one in the stock) and the recoil spring(the one around the the magazine tube). Over time the constant pressure on the springs cause them to collapse a bit thus causing the mule kick. The kit also includes new friction rings. Brownell's and I think Midway USA offer the kits. If your lacking mechanical skills Art's Gun Shop in Missouri offer the kits as well as the labor. Check out Art's You tube videos. You'll be impressed.
This is a fantastic video! Thank you for sharing! Do i have to break mine down like this to properly clean it? is there a proper field strip and way to clean it?
Wow you're very knowledgeable on these a5. Hopefully u could help me out. My father gave me a (Daiwa 500) 12gauge. Made by singer nikko its a clown of the a5. Im having trouble finding a butt stock, also front trigger screws and one butt stock screw. It works like a charm i just want to bring her back to life. Thanks in advance!
Any solutions for why the barrel jams while cycling in the rear position? I've cleaned and oiled the entire firearm and the barrel just doesn't slide smoothly and gets stuck in the furthest back position... Thoughts?
I have a 80s Belgium made a 5 and just wanted to remove the 3 shot plug . Any help would be appreciated . I don't want to damage anything because it is in great shape .
@@UndertheGun Yes but my gun is Belgium made 12 ga and I think built in the 80s . It has 3 fingers sticking out at the tube end . Will watch again may be I was typing at that point.
There is a difference in my gun . The rear Tang is not visible it must be under the wood the tube end has 3 fingers sticking out and the ring is metal with notches where the fingers sticking out . There is a number on the left rear of the receiver it's 751pp40582 any help is appreciated .
@@txrick4879 those fingers are the detent for the mag cap, remove that and the metal ring that holds that in and your plug will be under it. BE CAREFUL!! That spring will is powerful, and will launch things into low orbit.
@@UndertheGun Thank you will try to also noticed my gun only has one screw on each side of the resever . I might have a later or more modern gun then I thought . Appreciate your help and you have a new sub and friend and greetings from deep South Texas on the border or the RGV .
Great video very informative, wondering if you could tell me anything about this Remington model 11 my father had bought me 45 years ago when I was 15, I’ve done a lot of small game hunting with it and it’s in beautiful condition, I think this model was made between 1905 and 1947, it’s a sportsman 20 gauge model number 1045955 it has a pheasant engraved on one side of it and a duck or a goose engraved on the other side of it, i’m actually curious what year it is and any other info you might know , thanks
Question I have my dads old 47, Safety is not working properly, Safety will flip to shoot position on its own while walking, Can tell it still has the ball under the spring, 23:39 , Still makes the click sound when turned on and off, Do you think it needs a new spring as pointed out at the 23:39 mark
The screws your looking at are blind pins. you drive them through into the reciever, no bullshit. If you look into the reciever through the ejection port, you'll see the holes for them to come out. They are rollpins also by the way. No disrespect, just one smith to another.
I inherited an A5, it has surface rust on the bluing and parts of the functioning mechanisms. Do you have any advice on what can be used to remove the rust without damaging the shotgun any further. Thank you.
Transmission fluid and an old" pre- 1982 penny" because they are copper. Softer than the finish, harder than the rust. Just scrape the rust spots, try a little spot if you don't believe me, and wipe off when ready. And trans. fluid is a rust inhibitor and remover, thats why automatic transmissions dont rust inside.
Those three holes on the bottom of the receiver, your right they use very small flat-head screws, but also later years, per the 71 your working on uses roll pins also, just insert a punch and drive them out
Good video, just picked up aA5 and took off the barrel to clean. After I did that I discovered the bolt was stuck in the closed position. The people at Browning had no answers. Because this gun was manufactured in 1903. Any ideas???
I have a Rem 11, and the receiver DOES NOT have the recess that allows for the bolt cross pin to be removed, as shown at the 30:28 mark. It does have the hole on the right side of the receiver to access the pin, but all that will happen is the pin being smashed against the left side of the receiver. No idea how to get it out.
Thanks for the vid! Man I am looking for those 3 thin screws at min. 29:07 ! Still couln´t find them as replacement parts?! Do you know what they are called? Hope to hear from you. Thanks
During the 'off-season' I store my Belgian A5's and Model 11 with the magazine cap and forearm slightly loose. Don't tighten it completely or a crack will develop in the base of the wood forearm. How many old Belgium A5's have you seen with a crack there? That's why. A super tightened magazine cap for years at a time. P.S. I'm glad you mentioned the screws on a A5 are 'clocked' to be in it its certain, original threaded hole. You are the ONLY 'smith that I have ever heard mention this. Congrats!
I wonder if the same applies to the auto 5 because those are always coming in cracked.
@@Alleykatsks An A5 is an Auto 5. Belgium A5 is the early A5 or Auto 5.
I have a very early (early 30s) Belgium A5 that my greqt Grandfather bought and handed down each generation. I am trying to restore it, and it is cracked at the base of the handgaurd. I'm hoping I can repair it and not lose the original wood.
@@darren6951 That can be 'fixed', but depending on the length of the crack, it might still be visible afterwards. I have repaired these types of cracks by removing the forearm and tracing the crack with a dremel tool with a rounded bit about a 1/8 wide from the INSIDE of the forearm. Don't go through the wood, just a 1/8 of an inch or so. Fill that trough you've created with the dremel with epoxy. I use JB weld.
@@darren6951 I also inherited a 1930s Belgian A5 from my great grandfather. This is great advice, no cracks yet but will now loosen when not in use. Thanks for the tip
8:25 is where the disassembly starts.
Joel Torres thanks I was going to leave a comment like this if you hadn’t 😂
I love you
Not all hero’s wear capes - thanks
Hey, I liked the brief history lesson though, so I didn't mind waiting......
I never comment on videos but Jesus I just wanted to know what time it was, not how the clock was made. The title is misleading. Should say, "Browning Auto 5 History Lesson and Disassembly"
I can't wrap my mind around how J. M. Browning designed such a machine.
He was a brilliant man.
He was ahead of his time, for sure
Not only this, but heck all of the other firearms he designed. A genius without equal.
Well it was rather easy. He just turned on his computer, opened up the ''Auto-Cad'' program & started using that mouse...... And the rest is History....
There's a reason that many consider him to be the greatest firearms designer to ever live. The man was a genius.
I have a 20ga A-5, Belgium, my father bought for his Dad in 1956. My Grandfather passed in 1957 and never fired it. My Dad paid $125 for it, I have the sales receipt. In the last 64 years it’s been fired 3 times. It’s had 28 rounds through it. Obviously it looks BRAND NEW, not a blemish, not a scratch, the blueing is like the day it was purchased. BEAUTIFUL piece. I’m going to shoot some clay with it just to fire it when spring rolls around. This video was VERY HELPFUL in disassembly and cleaning. Not much cleaning required. I’m a very lucky guy.
Thanks so much for these two videos on the A5. I just picked up a 1958 Light 12, which is pretty much in factory mint condition, (except the bolt was jamming when you tried to pull it back, hence a bargain purchase) . After watching the videos twice, I followed your procedures in the videos. This gun had never been apart, as there was no screw marks and the stock was really on super tight. Following your video made it all easy, as I knew what to expect.
Anyway, when the butt stock finally came off, a small part fell out of the receiver, that must have been the reason for jamming the bolt. I quickly learned from the video that it was the sear, and I also discovered that the sear spring and sear spring follower were missing. After completely disassembling, cleaning, and inspecting everything, the list of parts needed was small; sear spring & follower, recoil spring, and the action spring with both action spring end pieces. The only thing I had to figure out on my own was getting the carrier spring back in correctly, as its the older style with the pin in the receiver instead of the trigger group like in your video example.
Its all back together now, it looks, feels and shoots like new. Your videos made this very easy to follow. I picked up a Wheeler screwdriver set before I started, leaving no marks on the screws when done. I was very careful, labeled everything and it would be very hard to tell it had ever been apart. Thanks again...
Cool deal
Rock on dude. My light twelve was my best friend’s dad’s. He taught me to use it in high school. When he died, it went to my friend and I bought it from him. It’s a work of art.
I’ve got 2, One a 12ga and the other a short action 16ga, both with original receipts. They were made right prior to the Nazis invading. Grandfather bought them just after WWII ended, when FN was selling to US servicemen.
They have huge sentimental value to me!
I love mine. Got it in a trade a few years ago for a guitar. Finally pulled it out and went shooting. It's an excellent piece and I thank God I kept it! Thanks for the info/video!
I received a 12-gauge Belgian-made Auto-5 yesterday that clocks as an early 1946 model based on the serial number. It was bought new by my great great granddad after WW2 and has been passed down through the family. I can tell it got its fair share of use because it is dirty as heck and most of the screws were already noticeably buggered as I was stripping it down. The magazine stop screw is so buggered I didn't have a head that could unscrew it without further damage so I just left it alone. Now I just need to clean the thing and get it back to working order. Videos like these are so helpful, even with the guesswork of differences like the singlepiece carrier, trigger guard push safety and the like that mine has.
Just got a sweet 16 that my grandpa bought for my grandma back in 1962 so definitely wanted to find something about disassembly since it’s been 15 or so years since I had a Remington model 11.
I just got my father's 16 ga few months ago from Morocco. They were holding that gun for 12 months from entering the US, I don't know why, probably they were confused at customs between 16 ga and F 16. I love it, I shot it in 1984 as my first.
I can remember going to visit my grandmother at browning in arnold. We would go in the front door an exit thru the warehouse. There would be pallets of boxed guns an the smell of oil and machinery. Always thought as a kid john browning was just in the back making guns. Yep he was a genius
Been working there for a year now and I love it.. they don't understand how I'm always so chipper and I told them I love I truly love guns and the history behind em.
Saving this one.. Might be 6yrs old but is exactly what I needed.. I have my "new to me" A5 sitting at my buddy's house waiting for me to come get it.. Will be reviewing this vid again and breaking down the new addition tonight. Might try to disassemle the trigger at a later date but for now this vid is perfect.. I appreciate how you explain and discuss the parts w/ multiple variations over the years.. Good stuff & hope to find more useful vids on your channel 🥂
I have a beautiful A5 in 20 gauge 1957 vintage. the receiver is engraved and it is the lightweight vent ribbed version. Just beautiful and fires like a dream.
thank you for teaching me about the a5's my family inherited a 12 and 16 ga and it means a lot to hear the history behind such a wonderful firearm. thanks and happy new year.
Thank you for putting this out. I own this exact shotgun. It was my fathers and I got it when he passed away. It has to be at least 50 years old. Its in about the same shape. I have been trying to clean it properly as it has never truly been cared for properly. I wanted to get inside it to clean it up from all the years of grime thats inside of it. Now I can. I also have a sweet 16 gauge Belgium Browning that my grandfather left fro me when he passed. It is probably 60 years old. I imagine the internals are about the same. Its in need of work as well.
That it really cool. All the auto fives are more or less the same.
You saved my tail, brother! Thanks for the vids (disassembly and reassembly). I told my customer shotguns, especially old shotguns, are not my certification, but he wanted me to sort out his grandfather's Auto-5 anyway. Had to replace his locking block, charging handle, and left extractor (a nightmare finding parts for a 1942ish Auto-5). Anyway thank you! His grandfather's SG is returned to its former glory and the customer is happy, happy, happy!
Glad hear it. I do what I can
glad i found this video, got a savage 745b from a neighbor and had no clue what a disassembly/cleaning was going to be like.
Amazing to see the original paperwork still with it.
I have been searching the internet all night trying to find a video or information on the switch that blocks the magazine nothing out there thank you for doing this video 6 years ago to help me understand what that switch is for on the A5 I have just purchased today
I just adopted one from my uncle that passed and Thank you for this video
Our pleasure!
That looks identical to my late Fathers Light 12, his was manufactured in 1969 with that same square grip. My Grandfathers A5 was a 1957 model with the classic rounded grip. Such an iconic shotgun, so well made I hunt with them to this day, with proper cleaning I’ve never had a jam.
I know it's a little late, but I looked at the police photos, and yes, it's a remington model 11 in 20ga that Kurt used. Also, surprisingly, he owned an ar15 as well, which I found interesting.
I have a 1966 A5 that I got a good deal on, this video is the best one I've ever seen on the disassembly, thanks for the great work.
You are welcome.
Thank you. Great video. I myself own the Browning A5, with a chamber of 65mm. I do not know exactly the year of release, probably 1960. The weapon is excellent, except that the cartridges are 65 mm long. Do not let go. You have to charge yourself. Yours faithfully from Russia.
Check the breaking system I talked about in the reassembly video, you might have it assembled wrong. If not let me know.
Browning was an absolute genius. Thanks for that vid - getting an FN made 16Ga one shortly, I just couldn't resist it.
Nice
@@UndertheGun could u please show us how the follower is removed as mine won’t come out just like in the video?
I have a 1929 16 Gauge A5, and most of the lock screw heads are stripped; so unfortunately, I'll have to tap and die them to get them out. Thankfully, I can get a whole set of lock screws for $25 online. Aside from that (and black gunk and junk ALL OVER the internals), take down and cleaning has been a pinch. So thanks for your in depth instruction, it really helped!
Dont have to tap. Drill a small hole in the center, then hammer in a small torx bit. use that to remove them. I would not do that with a hand drill
Thank you so so much for this. I just picked up a Savage copy of this and it seems to be an early model, but it’s very close to this particular weapon. This is extreme melt helpful and well done, and it helped a lot.
Glad I could Help
Thank you for the detailed disassembly. Amazing video.
You sure know your way around a A5. Thanks for the education. Never too old to learn something new
You are welcome
Just inherited two of these. Thank you much for the video. Exactly what I was looking for. 👍🏼
Yes, I got mine, ( Made in Belgium in 1951), that also came with a Slug Barrel, plus an LTD 40 channel CB with a builtin 800watt Linear from my neighbor for $800 in 1996. It's been oiled several times & since it's my nicest piece, I haven't fired it yet. So in July, I'll have had it 25 years. Maybe this year I'll take it out with my sons & grandsons...
@@montydaniels1054 yep. Seem like great guns. First thing I noticed was how smooth the action is. I’ve got two boys and when they’re old enough, each will get one of them as his first shotgun. Great guns.
@@marke3623 Yes Mark & well made too. I was holding this Browning up to the Winchester 1400 & man oh man what a difference between the two. ( Mine came with the 2nd optional Slug Barrel. I've seen them pretty reasonably priced online) Even if you're not paying any attention to the engraving the Browning has, you can see just how much more went into them than the Winchesters. Just like you, my oldest son asked if he could have it instead of his brother. I said it always was his first but he'll have to do the talking if his younger brother seems slighted or seems to show more interest. Good thing I'll have enough of a selection that they'll both feel good with whichever they end up with...
@@montydaniels1054 I had to start buying 2 of everything my daughter turned out to be just as fine a shot as her brother. Now with step Children I’m working on a arming a small army when I pass.
@@larrypostma2866 Larry, I know that feeling. I have one son & a grandson that are left handed. Because my x-son in law takes Stevie target practicing & hunting every year now, I'm already replacing rifles because he finds it too hard shooting a R/H Rifle. lol it's expensive but worth it...
My daughter has been bugging me for some of my firearms but I've opted to help outfit her with some newer ones.... So being a Father & Grandfather in a family where Gun Ownership is important, I don't mind doing it for them....
I took a friend of mine's 1930's FN gun dove hunting a kajillian years ago and bought the gun from him that day. I Love the old hump back and use one to this day.
Oh the anxiety after video ends with all those parts laying everywhere.
My dad have the same gun, 35+ years of firing and never been disassembled only minor cleaning and lubrication by removing the barrel. I don’t know how the hell JM. Browning came up with this legendary design.
A very informative video man thanks.
you are welcome
Thanks for the vid. Have my grandpas model 11 16 gauge. Was having trouble with ejection and looked up how to properly clean it in case I cleaned it wrong. But thanks to you I just realized I'm missing the steel friction ring. Also thought the two holes in receiver were oiling holes, lol. Thanks again.
I imagine you've figured it out by not but the retaining pins you were expecting to be small flat head screws for the magazine disconnect and bolt release are actually roll pins that need driven out with a long punch.
Thanks for clarifying the principle of operation of the friction rings. Understanding the mechanism is much better than blindly following a manual.
You are welcome.
Mine has a diagram on the inside of the forstock. Its a little faded because it's a 69 or 70s model but it's there.
Not sure if this was eventually covered but it’s important to let folks know that those “screws” you couldn’t figure out how to remove are not screws at all. They were not replaced with hex heads or any other fastener. They are “roll pins” You need a roll pin punch set to drive them out. The Remington Model 11 used screws. Also would have liked it if you eventually told us how to remove the cartridge plunger head from the tube. You said you would do that. Otherwise good video.
This needs to be pinned to the top. The browning light 12 I am working has roll pins too.
Other than that, thanks for the video.
I inherited an a5 chambered in 16ga. It's an odd round, 2 9/16in shells. It was my grandmother's, it's old, and from Belgium. After seeing this, I'll just take it to a professional for maintenence.
WOW!!!! Excellent video… but,,,, I don’t think I’ll ever have the nerve to ever take mine apart. I’ll pay to have it done…waaaaay too many parts😳😳😳😳😳
Wow that’s pretty cool, it’s got the friction ring adjustment directions inside the forearm, I had to do a lot of research online to finally find the directions settings for my Remington model 11-20 gauge
Very cool
I have a Savage that was in the military in WWII My Grandfather brought it back from the European theater and it's a great shooting shotgun
I have a savage 775A
I bought a Springfield 745b 12 gauge from my uncle for 70. dollars and it shoots great Sir
I bought a new 745B when I was 14 years old for $100. I am now 75 and it has never let me down.
I just inherited one of these this year, haven't taken apart yet and this video helped.
Great video on the dissebly of these great shotguns. I have a 1922 model 11 Remington that the action is gummed up and your video gives me confidence to disassemble it and see if I can get it working again. Thanks!
I mean no offense, but wanted to clarify the history from my understanding. The Remington model 11 was manufactured by Remington until 1926, after that Brownings were manufactured by FN in Belgium until Hitler invaded Belgium. Browning, then licensed Savage arms to build them from approx 1940-1947 as the model 745 (I own one of these). In 1948 Remington sold it again as the Model 11-48. Eventually after WWII, production went back th FN in Belgium.
Bonnie & Clyde and Dillinger also had these!
Both chopped down to “whippet guns”.
Verney Carron & Luigi Franchi ARC (A Recul de Canon = barrel long recoil ) are out equivalent here in western Europe. We can find FN made Auto 5 too but they cost like 1500$ ...
It's funny Browning never reinforced the fore ends of the A5's to prevent wood splits. You see a lot of them that have that issue. Wondering if they were shot with heavy loads and the wrong inertia rings in place? Loved mine and it was wicked deadly on upland birds. I'm looking for another one for this coming season.
Just picked up a Browning magnum 12 ( like New) £ 300 quid.... another one for my collection...
JM Browning was a genius.
He was good at what he did.
Under the Gun The Best at What He Did Only One That Was Close Was John Pedersen 😎👍🏼
Thanks so much for explaining the friction ring set up. I needed a refresher course.
You are welcome.
One of these will be my next purchase. I'd like to find one in 12 ga or even 16 ga with improved or modified vent rib barrel. would like to just use it occasionally for clays and doves and just to have and enjoy. Very well built shotguns.
I almost used the wrong screw driver for the job. Needs thin flat head. You saved my hardwear
Glad to help.
I have a Diawa A5, made in Japan identical to the Browning A5, I have hunted ducks for many of years, time to clean and relube
My action spring follower doesn't want to come out the end where pin and plug is. So when I put together my light 12, I forgot about it and I already put back my bolt and trigger pack. Such a pain! Also mine has a one piece lifter and the receiver mounted flat spring.
Surprised you didn’t explain about the bronze friction ring and the bevel ring on the magazine tube, as adjusting this determines how much recoil is taken out when firing heavy loads as compared to Lt. Loads. I started shooting Auto-5’s in 1958 and watching you shoot that Browning and the tremendous recoil you were getting it is quite apparent you have it set for Lt loads. 😳 I have never seen an Auto-5 kick like yours 😳 I would take the forearm off and set it for heavy loads and change the recoil spring.
ps I have my original 1958 Auto-5 that my Dad bought in Belgium in 1958 and other Browning Auto -5’s etc..& after 40yrs. I ordered another recoil spring from Browning and the old spring was compressed about 1.5-2” inches compared to the new spring. It was obvious the old spring had lost a lot of compressibility and needed replacement to reduce recoil.
and every gas operated shotgun I have used have a noticeable harder recoil than my Auto-5’s
Watch the reassembly
Very insightful video thank you.
I'm a (75Y.O. retired Engineer/Musician) NEW gun owner and collector. (Yes Virgina, SOME "Liberal Socialists" DO like - and HAVE - guns.) It's my new hobby, since docs say I must give up vintage kart racing. One of my first acquisitions is a Rem. Mod.11 20Ga ("American Browning" A5) - ACTION Only. (I got a barrel and buttstock elsewhere.)
THANK YOU for the BEST and most complete functional description and takedown video I've seen on CZcams!
(BTW-LOVE your replies to comments from the insulting trolls...)
Some times you have to make examples of people. The rest get deleted.
Thank you for explaining the friction ring system. The guy I bought my A5 12 light from had no idea how it worked and I haven't seen anybody post a close up video that actually knew how it worked either.
You are welcome sir.
Ole John Moses was so proud of this, for the first time he wanted a piece of sales for it, and Winchester told him to pound sand.
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I got the trigger apart and I took that little detail it out and it shot across the garage like a rocket. Lol. Thank God I found it though. I was worried I wasn’t going to find out for anything
I got my a-5 from my grandpa when I turned 15
Same!
Those three little holes in the bottom hold roll pins which retain the cartridge stops. The holes are thru to the inside (look thru the ejection port and you can see the passage way). Use the correct size roll pin punch and drive them from the bottom and out the inside. Reinstall from the bottom.
Yes that was a production change later on. It has been discussed several times in the comments.
Can you do a video of disassembling/reassembling Savage 755a?
Its the same as this.
Great video. I know they are basically the same functionally, but mine for sure has some key differences. Having some trouble and can’t find exact video on it. I think mine may actually be the 720 16ga. Been having trouble getting info on it in general too. Pretty sure I figured out it was from 1935?
my pin in the bolt will not come out. I have beat on it for hours now and will not budge, on exposed side of bolt it looks to be clear of any pinging over. I have put far more force than i care to on this browning. any suggestions?
I can’t find any description or instructions on what that vertical little rectangular “button” above the magazine disconnect lever does/is.
Never had my hands on one of these before.
Other than the mystery “button”, this 1928 has a problem as when attempting to load a shell underneath, the “plate” won’t depress to allow the shell to be loaded. I have no idea what that’s about.
It is not a button.
I have Savage 775A that was grandfather's. The spring on the left side of the trigger assembly is placed on the inside of the receiver. Fell out during disassembly. Cannot get gun to function correctly. Also, the trigger will not reset when assembled. Has been disassemble once before by someone else. Large paperweight at this time.
I would need have to have it in hand. I have the same gun I got from my grandfather.
Still one of the fastest cycling tube shotguns in the world, if you can hold onto it.
Can still pick them up dirt cheap.
Dirt cheap? Tell me where
@@shawnmckee14
Ring Bob , park st guns
Herts.
It does seem kinda weird.
I’ve seen them go for $300, and seen em go for $2000!
I’m not versed in these so don’t know why.
So what would happen if you took out the disconnector, put the trigger assembly back in and tried cycling a few rounds through it? Could you hold the trigger down and keep cycling rounds or would something else happen?
It would fire one round and stop.
Interesting, I thought the bolt would go back enough to recock the hammer and with the disconnector gone you could keep it cycling. I'm assuming with that part gone the hammer falls forward with the bolt and not enough momentum is applied to the firing pin which would leave an unfired round in the chamber correct?
I just got one in sad shape. It's missing the stock, recoil spring assembly, including the tube that goes in the stock, lift spring, trigger receiver screws. It makes me wonder if it was taken apart that much, is there likely a major problem, or they just couldn't figure how to reassembled it. It seems to cycle fine, less the springs of course, and the FCG seems to function.
Is it worth fixing or should I scrap it?
That's really up to you.
The best disassembly manual I've ever seen...thanks a lot !
I own a FN-16 built in autumn 52 (means bolts for carrier latch and magazine lock but they came off easily and one piece feeder without the fast feeding option)...but it has some trouble with the carrier latch which has been bent/ modified/filed by some idiot....little 16 just doesn't cycle as she should (loads "jump" back when loading instaed of being hold by the carrier latch) and spare parts for a 16 gauge are unavailable here in Germany (and US companies don't send to Germay whyever)...any ideas how I couls get the carrier latch back into shape so it works ?
Short of welding it up and re-shaping, not sure what else you could do. Without seeing the issue for myself I don't think I will be much good to you.
I have watched your video several times and enjoy it! The main thing I don't understand is how the carrier know when to function, is there a cam track somewhere I can't see ? It seems to work like magic.
Not sure what you mean,
@@UndertheGun What makes the carrier work?
I can take my 870 down no problem but there is absolutely 0.0 chance that I am going any further than pulling the barrel. Holy hell. Nope, nope, nope. 👍🇺🇲
Hey man thanks for the video, I just purchased one at a gun show and when I bought it everything was working good the slide and action no problem. When starting to take it apart just to give it a thorough clean I got to the part where you had to punch the pin out of the receiver to get it out. My gun does not have the notch to line up the pin to punch it out so I lined it up with the other side and tried to to do that. Well now my receiver does not slide back and forth at all. and just gets stuck. Any help would be appreciated.
Without it in my hand I will not be much help. Sorry.
1. What snap shot brand do u use for this gun? __________________
2. Help! The snap cap in the chamber kant b removed.
How do u remove dat dummy shell out of the chamber? ________________
Detail:
=====
I just used Tripple K clear plastic dummy round n it bounced out of the
magazine n lodged at top of the loading tongue. The shell was angled upward,
pointing at the chmbr but it felt like its butt rim was stuck below.
I then have to open the breech by pulling the bolt hndle back, then used my fingers to
bring the shell up into the chamber. But after i closed the bolt n 'fired' it, the shell got
stuck in the chmbr n couldn't get it out. Kant even pull the handle back to open it.
The quick-load lever on the LH side was n still is in the forward position and i kant
even move dat lever either.
What's going on? Pls help!!!
I'v gotten the magzn cap off and try to go from there. The outer surface of the steel
magz tube is also in pristine cond. Looks like i need to remove the bbl off the rcvr,
then use a cleang rod to bang it out???
But still, what's the mystery of getting the dummy round stuck in the 1st place? ________________
I've compared dat Trppl K dummy round's (2nd one, they're sold in pairs) of 16Ga
w Wnchstr 16Ga Super X, 2 3/4" 1,295ft/sec, 1 1/8Oz, #7.5's diam. at the top of the
shells and at their base. Both the dummy n the real rounds(took 3 shell meas average)
w a caliper and both had .740 at the base but the Dummy had .730 at the middle of the
cylinder vs. .720 for the longer real shell. Yes, the shell's brass base for the real round
makes it fatter there.
So, the only diff is dat the dummy is only 2 1/2"L vs. 2 3/4"L for the real shell.
3. This Swt 16 is made by Miroku n it looks like it was never fired, stocks hv only like 3
shallow marks, n metal have no scratches or wear, it's in pristine condition. The loading
tongue (or whatever u may call it) has no scratches at all, vertically or in parallel.
@Under the Gun. Hey, great video BTW, I totally enjoyed you sharing the knowledge & brief history lesson. I thought they were made in Belgium till 1952? Mine is a 1951 also came with a slug barrel.. Anyone know? I just remember hearing that during the war 2 a company in Belgium also manufactured the A-5..... Also told by a gun shop were not worth much.... Right... Hope you catch for a reply to value of a solid 9 out of 10 A-5. (Mine has more etching on the stock & engraving too)...
they were made under license by a few companies, over many years.
This is an awesome video. Thank you. Much appreciated.
I have two sweet sixteens. I have a 63’ that my Dad gave me ax a kid. I love it, it shoots well, and kicks like a mule.
There’s a big difference in my gas operated 1100 Remington and my recoil operated Browning.
Thanks for the vid!
Answering as only a fellow shooter and not a gunsmith, my experience with the Auto 5 is that you can order a refurbish kit that includes the action spring(the one in the stock) and the recoil spring(the one around the the magazine tube). Over time the constant pressure on the springs cause them to collapse a bit thus causing the mule kick. The kit also includes new friction rings. Brownell's and I think Midway USA offer the kits. If your lacking mechanical skills Art's Gun Shop in Missouri offer the kits as well as the labor. Check out Art's You tube videos. You'll be impressed.
Yup....new spring kit and make sure friction ring setup is correct for load.
This is a fantastic video! Thank you for sharing! Do i have to break mine down like this to properly clean it? is there a proper field strip and way to clean it?
You do not have to take it down this far to clean. Just the barrel, trigger group, and bolt is all a good cleaning needs.
Wow you're very knowledgeable on these a5. Hopefully u could help me out. My father gave me a (Daiwa 500) 12gauge. Made by singer nikko its a clown of the a5. Im having trouble finding a butt stock, also front trigger screws and one butt stock screw. It works like a charm i just want to bring her back to life. Thanks in advance!
I dont know if the browning parts are interchangeable with your gun. So google is your friend.
I killed 2 NC Gobblers with mine!! MY Best friend who passed yrs ago passed down to me ❤
Browning 💪
Any solutions for why the barrel jams while cycling in the rear position? I've cleaned and oiled the entire firearm and the barrel just doesn't slide smoothly and gets stuck in the furthest back position... Thoughts?
assembled incorrectly, or you are missing parts.
This is an excellent instructional video. Professional and educational. Well done! Thank you sir.
You are welcome.
I have a 80s Belgium made a 5 and just wanted to remove the 3 shot plug . Any help would be appreciated . I don't want to damage anything because it is in great shape .
did you watch the video?
@@UndertheGun Yes but my gun is Belgium made 12 ga and I think built in the 80s . It has 3 fingers sticking out at the tube end . Will watch again may be I was typing at that point.
There is a difference in my gun . The rear Tang is not visible it must be under the wood the tube end has 3 fingers sticking out and the ring is metal with notches where the fingers sticking out . There is a number on the left rear of the receiver it's 751pp40582 any help is appreciated .
@@txrick4879 those fingers are the detent for the mag cap, remove that and the metal ring that holds that in and your plug will be under it. BE CAREFUL!! That spring will is powerful, and will launch things into low orbit.
@@UndertheGun Thank you will try to also noticed my gun only has one screw on each side of the resever . I might have a later or more modern gun then I thought . Appreciate your help and you have a new sub and friend and greetings from deep South Texas on the border or the RGV .
Great video very informative, wondering if you could tell me anything about this Remington model 11 my father had bought me 45 years ago when I was 15, I’ve done a lot of small game hunting with it and it’s in beautiful condition, I think this model was made between 1905 and 1947, it’s a sportsman 20 gauge model number 1045955 it has a pheasant engraved on one side of it and a duck or a goose engraved on the other side of it, i’m actually curious what year it is and any other info you might know , thanks
You can find that info on line. Most of those guns are well documented.
Thank you so much for this video. Very informative
You are welcome.
Question I have my dads old 47, Safety is not working properly, Safety will flip to shoot position on its own while walking,
Can tell it still has the ball under the spring, 23:39 , Still makes the click sound when turned on and off,
Do you think it needs a new spring as pointed out at the 23:39 mark
Or cleaned
Thank you, good vid. cheers.
The screws your looking at are blind pins. you drive them through into the reciever, no bullshit. If you look into the reciever through the ejection port, you'll see the holes for them to come out. They are rollpins also by the way. No disrespect, just one smith to another.
Yes, this has been discussed several times here in the comments.
Sorry, didnt see them or i wouldnt have said. My bad
@@jasonbuck1776 No worries. I am glad to have correct info to the viewers.
Ok so is the Browning FN Auto-5 and the Remington Model 11 the same shotgun minus the magazine cut off switch?
For the most part
I inherited an A5, it has surface rust on the bluing and parts of the functioning mechanisms. Do you have any advice on what can be used to remove the rust without damaging the shotgun any further. Thank you.
0000 steal wool and some oil, does not matter what kind. Use light to medium pressure as needed. You can use brass brushes with oil as well.
Transmission fluid and an old" pre- 1982 penny" because they are copper. Softer than the finish, harder than the rust. Just scrape the rust spots, try a little spot if you don't believe me, and wipe off when ready. And trans. fluid is a rust inhibitor and remover, thats why automatic transmissions dont rust inside.
@@jasonbuck1776 yup...do not use gun oil while you scrub.
Those three holes on the bottom of the receiver, your right they use very small flat-head screws, but also later years, per the 71 your working on uses roll pins also, just insert a punch and drive them out
yes, and this was covered in several comments bellow
Semi automatic shot gun! Not fully automatic right.
Good video, just picked up aA5 and took off the barrel to clean. After I did that I discovered the bolt was stuck in the closed position. The people at Browning had no answers. Because this gun was manufactured in 1903. Any ideas???
Take it apart and look. I would have to have it in my hands.
The phone guys probably had no idea but the actual gunsmiths do.
How do you remove the roll pin from the magazine cutoff switch? I can’t get to the other side to punch it out. Please help.
Great videos. Thank you !
Where would you reccomend to get a new fore and stock for one of these? Cheers -
BRowning, The stock is $300 or $400, im not sure about the forend.
I have a Rem 11, and the receiver DOES NOT have the recess that allows for the bolt cross pin to be removed, as shown at the 30:28 mark. It does have the hole on the right side of the receiver to access the pin, but all that will happen is the pin being smashed against the left side of the receiver.
No idea how to get it out.
Some old guns did not have the hole. You will have to drill a hole in the receiver that aligns to the notch on the right.
I’ve heard a rumor that the early ones (FN) had to use lead shot only.
Any truth to this?
(I’ve also heard they’ll eat anything)
Yes and Yeah pretty much
Thanks for the vid! Man I am looking for those 3 thin screws at min. 29:07 !
Still couln´t find them as replacement parts?! Do you know what they are called?
Hope to hear from you. Thanks
I got it!
The older A5 models use a "Cartridge StopP SCREWS" the newser ones, like yours use "Cartridge Stop/Carrier Latch/ Mag. Cutoff Pins" ! ;)