Thank you Mitchell for this video. If I may add, there is something critical that needs to be followed I think. For any shaft configuration, we need to follow the 2 points fixed and 1 point flexible rule, most common example are the drive shafs on car or trucks. If you lock the shaft at 3 places, you will overconstraint the system, I think the reason why you don't see any wobble, is because where you are measuring, you are actually measuring on a fixed part, the screw migh be bending, below the gantry. I have tried what you propose, but I have left the flexible coupling. Both ends are fixed, and what I noticed, as soon as the dial would shift, it was an indication the screw was not correctly aligned. I adjusted both ends, until there was no shift or compensation from the coupler, and was able to get good print. Also, what I noticed, I have 2 printer, but one has motor coupler exaclty like yours, and the other one has the flexible ones. the ones you have are called fix, and I think those are best. my printer with motor flexible motor, is a bad idea to use, because the shaft will not have a perfect run out, simply because it uses 2 set screws to hold in place. The fixed coupler seem to do a much better job, even for adjustement. I will change mine soon.
FINALLY, a useful video on CZcams !!! Your troubleshooting skills are on the next level. I have several printers that exhibit the same symptom to varying degrees. I am looking forward to tuning this away. Thank You, Thank You
Thanks soo much for this video. I have a new Artillery Sidewinder X1 on it's way but I almost didn't pull the trigger because of hearing about the Z banding issues I have heard of. I am glad now that I have a better idea of what to look for if I end up having the same issue.
I am a machinist and none of what your saying makes sense. I am really happy that this worked out for you. But hypothetically if your have a lead screw with a bend, or thicker spot or even a twist and you adjust a specific spot so your dial indicator reads zero. Potentially you are throwing out the alignment of the rest of the rod. You would be chasing your tail adjusting things as you travel up the rod. Also regarding the rollers by moving that eccentric nut all your doing it removing tension on the rollers. All you have done it released tension off the gantry so its effectively floating allowing you dial indicator to read 0. I don't think your have aligned anything and rather just loosen everything up. (Besides the gantry bearing. You have made that solid.)
Thanks for your comment and I can understand your outtake on what I did. The dial indicators main job was a visual for me to find the inconsistencies in the tools movement and help me locate the area or areas of misalignment. I took the approach similar to adjusting runout on a mill or lathe to see if the rod was indeed experiencing rotation inaccuracy and it was. Finding how the stepper motors rigid coupler and lead screw were reacting together and in my case was wobbling while traveling, I was able to confirm this with the gauge and it allowed me to fix both the rigid coupling to the stepper motor and rod, but also to the gantry. My goal was to get all moving parts that controlled the vertical movement of the extruder as rigid and true as I could because working in fractions of a millimetre as you know, would easily transfer those defects to the print. It worked for me and I hope you understand my thought process and thanks again for your feed back.
Nice job! That was a great video and made sense to me. I've linked this video in a running comment section for another SX1 user that has tried everything but I suspect not the procedure or the points you found in need of adjustment. Thanks!
Awesome job! I've been really ticked at my x1 after a bunch of upgrades I had done and this helped me narrow down various alignment issues Soooo much easier than all the hoops I had been going through. After I had upgraded to an SKR 1.4 Turbo, TFT 3.5, Hermara Hotend I just assumed my issues lie somewhere with those upgrades, nope, all my issues were due to the dual Z rods not being perfectly synced / along with X gantry wasn't spot on anymore AND my bed rollers were loose. Bottom line, just by your example I used the same principals to dial in everything else and boom all better. Thank you for your time!
@@CaM203 Also worth noting as I'm installing linear rails atm. I think possibly a better (or a 2nd) measuring point for the X gantry on each side is by raising the Z (this is for MY setup YMMV) to 394.60. This gives me right at 1mm gap between the x axis and the top connection brace, and makes it VERY visible if its off at all.
Very well documented! As a licensed millwright I work with large scale machines using these “trueing” techniques almost exactly. Your thinking was spot on. I understood what you meant even without using the correct terminology which is amazing for the home user. Thank you for being so thorough and posting your findings! Just for knowledge sake, and to maybe help guide you or others in future “trueing” tasks , I’ve posted below just a few descriptive wording and terminology edits that I caught while viewing. Should make researching much faster in the future! *Dial gauge - commonly known as a “dial indicator” and can come on its own but is usually mounted to an adjustable sliding arm with thumb screws and bar clamps. It can use a magnetic base or other rigid devices to avoid use of locking pliers 👍🏻 but your method was executed perfectly with understanding the firm mounting. *The threaded rods are commonly known as “lead screws” or “acme thread positioning screws” due to the specific square cut and 20deg pitch angle which makes it very smooth and strong making them superior to traditional 60 deg threaded rod that is used for fastening. Hope this helps! We need more informative content like this to help the community of makers grow! Keep up the great work man! Cheers!
Thank you very much for this video. I have had athe X1 v.4 for a few weeks now, and it's a great printer, but I need to adjust this as I'm having the same issue. Not so big of a deal at first, but when I have seen what this machine is capable of, I want to tune it :D
The first thing I did with my sidewinder was adjust the rollers on all axis. Being an old time tool and maker I am always concerned with any slop in guide ways. Did you notice the two Z axis lead screw nuts float in their mounts? That is to allow for the screws to wobble slightly without imparting that force into the moving carriage. The lead screws are not precision ground ball screws. They are roll formed acme thread, perfectly good for this purpose. You did the correct fix by adjusting the rollers, the minor wobble in the screws is not going to be an issue for functioning. Have fun.
I'm still waiting for my X1 to arrive, but I think this might be my issue on my Ender 3. So I'm off to find one of those gauges & will be doing this to both my printers.
Thanks for the good video and the explaination. Have the same problem and trying to get rid of it... also I think the z-motor mounts on this printer are badly desinged and the motors are always tilted.
I just ordered one of these machines yesterday and have been digging into what I can expect to need to tweak. This video looks like it'll be super helpful. Thanks!
one tip I can give you is get the machine setup best you can (stock) and do some test prints to see how its going before you changes - you will find the machine is very good out of the box.
@@CaM203 Thanks! Going through the videos, I'm noticing a pattern of very few issues, or lots of issues. Very little between. I bet it comes down to who was on the assembly line that day.
Alastair Drong one issue that I have been playing around with is the rollers. Both on the gantry and the build platform. If you spend the time to adjust them I believe it prints much smoother. Too tight, you get this “bump” in it travel. Too loose and they flop around and get rough lines. Spend some time playing with them, it’s worth it.
@@CaM203 Arrived two days ago! How's the resume mode been for you? I popped my breaker (I don't think my apartment is wired right :eyeroll:) and the resume function was there, but didn't extrude filament and the x,y position for just one of the two parts I was printing was pretty far off. points of note for anyone considering this printer: Strangely, there was not test print cube in my box, but there was still some red filament in the extruder when I loaded up my black PLA, so it seems the machine was tested. I haven't completely gone through my checklist of common unboxing issues with the machine, but so far so good. I set it up and it spit out a decent test cube. Oddity of note: I've got a stray screw inside the base that's lodged in the grill of the housing. Luckily, It's sticking with the threads out and has the same threading as a standard brass standoff (commonly used for mounting computer motherboards) so I've got it held in place with a standoff until I've cause to open the machine up.
In my printer I found one side of the carriage plate where the lead screw nut is mounted is not 90 deg to the side of the carriage where v-wheels are attached it should be L shape with perfect 90 deg to avoid wobbling while sliding up and down parallel to z-axis. I think the blue thing or whatever it's called was there to compensate for this imperfection on the carriage and avoid stress on leadscrew due to misalignment while sliding parallel to the Z-axis. Am not sure if this non squared carriage plate is the case with all printers which explains why some people are having z-banding and other not.
There’s a reason why flex couplers are used. It’s to minimize any stress to the stepper motor and/or the bearings due to misalignments between the two different axes of rotation. No two axes can ever be aligned perfectly to be colinear. A flex coupler acts like a u-joint but without backlash or hysteresis. Using a solid coupler will introduce stresses in your system and will lead to premature bearing and motor failures.
The solid couplers are stock and come from factory installed. Earlier Versions of the X1 had the 'spring' style coupler but on the Version 4 they changed. Hey who knows it's China and is very possible that each batch has different parts depending on supply.
fantastic!!! Best video I've seen.. people go over the line doing things that they don't even understand what is it for. This is it. Do you have a link of the tools you used on this video?
I could be wrong but loosening the motor screws wouldn't help since it's screwed into frame. Any adjustment from motor side would be lost when tighten back on frame unless you put shims between the screw(s) and frame. I assume only the top would need to be adjusted to correct screw "wiggling". Am I missing something? Oh and great vid. I'll be doing this
Ive been running this printer non stop for 3 years with 10-15k + hours and have just started to experience this issue. Replaced and tightened belts/rollers and all bolts. Countless slicer adjustments and i still cant get rid of wobble. Will be trying this fix next, running out of options.
I just tested mine. it printed better than my Ender5. I can physically see a slight wobble on my right gantry but testing using your method showed nothing at all. Tested both sides and nothing. Do you have a video showing this wobble and what was showing up on your prints? I'd like to know if my wobble is NOT affecting my prints.
Interesting video, I was watching it and told myself, Damn! I dont have a gauge like that. It got me thinking that you could do the same thing with a cheap laser pointer attached to the extruder assembly with a quick cad design and a target on the bed and you'd see the wobble pretty easily
Great video and good explanation.. With the plate at the top of the Z, did you leave it with 2 screws or tighten it back up? If the latter, did you have problems getting it aligned to screw back in?
As you see it in the video is how I left it. Once I had it where I wanted it, I just made sure the screws were tight and that was it. Hope that is what you were asking.
very easily- remove both top supports for threaded rod then loosen screws that hold thread rod in couplers at the motors. **be sure to support the gantry as it will fall** the just twist out rods and you can then remove the 4 screws holding them.
Amazing find Cameron. So if i understand correctly, the steps are to loosen the 3rd nut on the top rod bearing bracket, and dial in where needed while progressively moving up and down the z axis? or should you adjust for an overall difference with a small margin/tolerance for wobble? Thanks for any help! Hope this works for me as well, great work doing the R&D👍👍
Thank you for the kind words and yes you want the smallest of difference over complete travel. What you will find is its the complete system that needs to be looked at. The steps I talk about can be in any order, its just a method that I found to work to find areas of trouble. You may find the rods are very smooth top to bottom, but your gantry need attention, or the other way around. Just take your time and don't forget... don't sweat the small stuff and have fun printing!
Struggling to understand how this helps as if the rod is bent, it is bent - and the printer is designed so that it floats and does not transfer the wobble to the gantry. Maybe if the wobble is really bad the rod will hit the brackets and transfer the wobble and maybe your adjustments would help for that (as mentioned I don't quite get it).... One lead screw on my X1 wobbles quite a lot laterally, the other is straight, but it entirely floats and does not appear to transfer any wobble onto the print. In terms of gantry pitch changes probably tightening the rollers and possibly other adjustments you made help but I also don't see how that has anything to do with wobble in the lead screw(s).
Has it ever happened to you that the printer randomly stops climbing during the print? like for several layers continuosly and at random points? Because it is a sort of z wobble but less regular and with the motors completely dead at least for 10-15 layers before returning to spin (and they don't most of the time)
Do you have an idea how the wobbling of the screw is influencing the head/gantry and would it be possible by properly decoupling x/y movement? It's my first printer and I haven't even used it yet. Just looking into the issues I can run into along the way.
neur303 it’s hard to know for sure. Best practice is to get belts tight, check and adjust the rollers for a smooth travel along their axis. Level the bed and just print stuff. You never know you might not have to do anything or have any issues. Learn how your individual machine is working and if needed you can fine tune it as you go. Most importantly just have fun printing!
I think I am getting Z-banding, but even when I print a flat object, the first layer has banding on the surface. That's only the first layer. Can it still be Z-whopping causing the print head issue?
Hello, just new with this product. As I turned on my 3d printer, the bed does not move and error appears telling printer halted kill() called. I tried to press confirm but the next page has no option icon and reset option. What shall I do Sir?
@@Pokornz I'm guessing that they are there for when the rods are not nicely calibrated as his are right now, so adding them might make things worse? Not 100% sure really.
Haven't you noticed "artillery Sidewinder X1" that I have been defending your machine for a long time but I am now finding issues that need your attention, such as: I now have to print everything 10-20 degrees hotter than I previously had too! What is going on with your printer?
Colin Fielder have you joined their official Facebook group? Good place to ask these questions and good large group to help as well. Hey I am sure Artillery is not checking these videos out. If you do get some kind of answer on your question, please let me know the outcome.
Your runout guage should be in the middle of the unsupported section to get a real measurement of the play. I have an Anet A8 converted to an AM8 with an aluminum frame with 8mm linear guide rods, but I still get the _slightest_ z-banding that bugs me. I don't know if it's the video making the pattern, but look at your lead screws at 6:19 .......There is a definite pattern - you can see a dark thread separated by 3 lighter ones all the way up.Also, take into consideration that the runout guage has a spherical tip which will 'ebb' and 'flow' as it rides over and sinks into the threads of the lead screw. That's probably where the play comes from that you see on the gauge. Glad its fix tho!
im afraid to try this..ive seen vids where they have those 2 screws holding motor in place by using zip ties inside because there is no thread material because extrusion is hollow wonder if they fixed that
Thank you Mitchell for this video. If I may add, there is something critical that needs to be followed I think. For any shaft configuration, we need to follow the 2 points fixed and 1 point flexible rule, most common example are the drive shafs on car or trucks. If you lock the shaft at 3 places, you will overconstraint the system, I think the reason why you don't see any wobble, is because where you are measuring, you are actually measuring on a fixed part, the screw migh be bending, below the gantry. I have tried what you propose, but I have left the flexible coupling. Both ends are fixed, and what I noticed, as soon as the dial would shift, it was an indication the screw was not correctly aligned. I adjusted both ends, until there was no shift or compensation from the coupler, and was able to get good print. Also, what I noticed, I have 2 printer, but one has motor coupler exaclty like yours, and the other one has the flexible ones. the ones you have are called fix, and I think those are best. my printer with motor flexible motor, is a bad idea to use, because the shaft will not have a perfect run out, simply because it uses 2 set screws to hold in place. The fixed coupler seem to do a much better job, even for adjustement. I will change mine soon.
This is a big deal. You're helping the biggest issue people see on this machine.
Wow that was just a video on how to tune a printer, but why do I got chills? Amazing job dude
FINALLY, a useful video on CZcams !!! Your troubleshooting skills are on the next level. I have several printers that exhibit the same symptom to varying degrees. I am looking forward to tuning this away.
Thank You, Thank You
Just plain awesome. Thank you Cameron. Im not having this problem, but now i can fine tune my printer. Great job, simple and nicely explained.
Is there an image of one of your prints after you've done this? and one before? I'm keen to know what no/minimal z-banding looks like. Thanks
Thanks soo much for this video. I have a new Artillery Sidewinder X1 on it's way but I almost didn't pull the trigger because of hearing about the Z banding issues I have heard of. I am glad now that I have a better idea of what to look for if I end up having the same issue.
Great video! not only for solving the issue but because for the deep analysis in order to find a root cause.
Perfect technical approach to solve the issue, congrats!
I am a machinist and none of what your saying makes sense. I am really happy that this worked out for you. But hypothetically if your have a lead screw with a bend, or thicker spot or even a twist and you adjust a specific spot so your dial indicator reads zero. Potentially you are throwing out the alignment of the rest of the rod. You would be chasing your tail adjusting things as you travel up the rod. Also regarding the rollers by moving that eccentric nut all your doing it removing tension on the rollers. All you have done it released tension off the gantry so its effectively floating allowing you dial indicator to read 0. I don't think your have aligned anything and rather just loosen everything up. (Besides the gantry bearing. You have made that solid.)
Thanks for your comment and I can understand your outtake on what I did. The dial indicators main job was a visual for me to find the inconsistencies in the tools movement and help me locate the area or areas of misalignment. I took the approach similar to adjusting runout on a mill or lathe to see if the rod was indeed experiencing rotation inaccuracy and it was. Finding how the stepper motors rigid coupler and lead screw were reacting together and in my case was wobbling while traveling, I was able to confirm this with the gauge and it allowed me to fix both the rigid coupling to the stepper motor and rod, but also to the gantry. My goal was to get all moving parts that controlled the vertical movement of the extruder as rigid and true as I could because working in fractions of a millimetre as you know, would easily transfer those defects to the print. It worked for me and I hope you understand my thought process and thanks again for your feed back.
Excellent method.
Thanks for this extremely valuable video!
Nice job! That was a great video and made sense to me. I've linked this video in a running comment section for another SX1 user that has tried everything but I suspect not the procedure or the points you found in need of adjustment. Thanks!
Awesome job! I've been really ticked at my x1 after a bunch of upgrades I had done and this helped me narrow down various alignment issues Soooo much easier than all the hoops I had been going through. After I had upgraded to an SKR 1.4 Turbo, TFT 3.5, Hermara Hotend I just assumed my issues lie somewhere with those upgrades, nope, all my issues were due to the dual Z rods not being perfectly synced / along with X gantry wasn't spot on anymore AND my bed rollers were loose. Bottom line, just by your example I used the same principals to dial in everything else and boom all better. Thank you for your time!
Shawn Bowen thank you for the kind words! I am happy you were able to get it sorted. Happy printing!
@@CaM203 Also worth noting as I'm installing linear rails atm. I think possibly a better (or a 2nd) measuring point for the X gantry on each side is by raising the Z (this is for MY setup YMMV) to 394.60. This gives me right at 1mm gap between the x axis and the top connection brace, and makes it VERY visible if its off at all.
awesome. I just received my sidewinder from amazon yesterday and I think I'll test for this when I put it together.
Very well documented! As a licensed millwright I work with large scale machines using these “trueing” techniques almost exactly. Your thinking was spot on. I understood what you meant even without using the correct terminology which is amazing for the home user. Thank you for being so thorough and posting your findings! Just for knowledge sake, and to maybe help guide you or others in future “trueing” tasks , I’ve posted below just a few descriptive wording and terminology edits that I caught while viewing. Should make researching much faster in the future! *Dial gauge - commonly known as a “dial indicator” and can come on its own but is usually mounted to an adjustable sliding arm with thumb screws and bar clamps. It can use a magnetic base or other rigid devices to avoid use of locking pliers 👍🏻 but your method was executed perfectly with understanding the firm mounting. *The threaded rods are commonly known as “lead screws” or “acme thread positioning screws” due to the specific square cut and 20deg pitch angle which makes it very smooth and strong making them superior to traditional 60 deg threaded rod that is used for fastening. Hope this helps! We need more informative content like this to help the community of makers grow! Keep up the great work man! Cheers!
Thank you for your kind words and the info on part terminology. Happy Printing
Thanks for the great video Cameron! Very clear and concise :)
Subscribed, great video. Very thoughtful approach to rendering the issue.
Thank you for sharing!
Good work, well explained! Great content.
Thank you very much for this video. I have had athe X1 v.4 for a few weeks now, and it's a great printer, but I need to adjust this as I'm having the same issue. Not so big of a deal at first, but when I have seen what this machine is capable of, I want to tune it :D
Great video, all that was missing (for me) was some before and after shots of your prints.
Great video, excellent diagnosis and explanation on how to fix the issue, 2 likes ;)
very nice detective work! thanks!
The first thing I did with my sidewinder was adjust the rollers on all axis. Being an old time tool and maker I am always concerned with any slop in guide ways. Did you notice the two Z axis lead screw nuts float in their mounts? That is to allow for the screws to wobble slightly without imparting that force into the moving carriage. The lead screws are not precision ground ball screws. They are roll formed acme thread, perfectly good for this purpose.
You did the correct fix by adjusting the rollers, the minor wobble in the screws is not going to be an issue for functioning.
Have fun.
Excellent work! will be calibrating in a similar manner. A guy named sunshine also makes a 3d printed compliant dial gauge!
Very Good Information. Thank You !
The dial gauge test is so smart
Excellent video!
Excellent video. Thank you! Subscribed.
Excellent information. My only suggestion is call a nut a nut and call a bolt a bolt. 👍🏼
i get off on indicating in my fixturing/setup prior to machining, i think im going to like the world of printing as a hobbyist now!
Thank you alot, I just bought the printer 3days ago and I faced the same problem. I would love it if you shared your reference.
I'm still waiting for my X1 to arrive, but I think this might be my issue on my Ender 3. So I'm off to find one of those gauges & will be doing this to both my printers.
Thanks for the good video and the explaination. Have the same problem and trying to get rid of it... also I think the z-motor mounts on this printer are badly desinged and the motors are always tilted.
I just ordered one of these machines yesterday and have been digging into what I can expect to need to tweak. This video looks like it'll be super helpful. Thanks!
one tip I can give you is get the machine setup best you can (stock) and do some test prints to see how its going before you changes - you will find the machine is very good out of the box.
@@CaM203 Thanks! Going through the videos, I'm noticing a pattern of very few issues, or lots of issues. Very little between. I bet it comes down to who was on the assembly line that day.
Alastair Drong one issue that I have been playing around with is the rollers. Both on the gantry and the build platform. If you spend the time to adjust them I believe it prints much smoother. Too tight, you get this “bump” in it travel. Too loose and they flop around and get rough lines. Spend some time playing with them, it’s worth it.
@@CaM203 Thanks! I'm making an "unboxing list" of things to check as I'm getting it set up. I'll add that to the list!
@@CaM203 Arrived two days ago! How's the resume mode been for you? I popped my breaker (I don't think my apartment is wired right :eyeroll:) and the resume function was there, but didn't extrude filament and the x,y position for just one of the two parts I was printing was pretty far off.
points of note for anyone considering this printer:
Strangely, there was not test print cube in my box, but there was still some red filament in the extruder when I loaded up my black PLA, so it seems the machine was tested. I haven't completely gone through my checklist of common unboxing issues with the machine, but so far so good. I set it up and it spit out a decent test cube. Oddity of note: I've got a stray screw inside the base that's lodged in the grill of the housing. Luckily, It's sticking with the threads out and has the same threading as a standard brass standoff (commonly used for mounting computer motherboards) so I've got it held in place with a standoff until I've cause to open the machine up.
In my printer I found one side of the carriage plate where the lead screw nut is mounted is not 90 deg to the side of the carriage where v-wheels are attached it should be L shape with perfect 90 deg to avoid wobbling while sliding up and down parallel to z-axis. I think the blue thing or whatever it's called was there to compensate for this imperfection on the carriage and avoid stress on leadscrew due to misalignment while sliding parallel to the Z-axis. Am not sure if this non squared carriage plate is the case with all printers which explains why some people are having z-banding and other not.
Nice work bud. Im a machinist too. I'm very strict on my tolerances so if anything is out by .0005 it's getting adjusted. Lol
There’s a reason why flex couplers are used. It’s to minimize any stress to the stepper motor and/or the bearings due to misalignments between the two different axes of rotation. No two axes can ever be aligned perfectly to be colinear. A flex coupler acts like a u-joint but without backlash or hysteresis.
Using a solid coupler will introduce stresses in your system and will lead to premature bearing and motor failures.
The solid couplers are stock and come from factory installed. Earlier Versions of the X1 had the 'spring' style coupler but on the Version 4 they changed. Hey who knows it's China and is very possible that each batch has different parts depending on supply.
where did you get the metal parts that replaced the plastic ones? mine came stripped.
thanks for this! life saver! I was about to give up on this machine and buy a prusa
Don’t give up on it. With a little tender care it can really print like a champ.
fantastic!!! Best video I've seen.. people go over the line doing things that they don't even understand what is it for. This is it. Do you have a link of the tools you used on this video?
I could be wrong but loosening the motor screws wouldn't help since it's screwed into frame. Any adjustment from motor side would be lost when tighten back on frame unless you put shims between the screw(s) and frame. I assume only the top would need to be adjusted to correct screw "wiggling". Am I missing something? Oh and great vid. I'll be doing this
I'm getting serious snake oil vibes from this video.
@@brianref36 I also love how people buy a $400 chinese printer and expect $10,000 (industrial grade printer) accurate percise prints.
Great video Cameron! Thank you! Can you post some pictures after this adjustement?
I do not know how to add images here, but if you go to the FB group for Artillery X1 you can see them there.
@@CaM203 which one? There are many groups.
@@ovidakis ' Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer Owners Group'
Ive been running this printer non stop for 3 years with 10-15k + hours and have just started to experience this issue. Replaced and tightened belts/rollers and all bolts. Countless slicer adjustments and i still cant get rid of wobble. Will be trying this fix next, running out of options.
I need one of those gauges
Спасибо, очень хорошее видео поможет думаю многим.
I need to get me one of these indicators!
For now I s'pose I can print some tests and see how bad my own is.
you are a god
will... I wish :)
Thanks for the video. I am wondering how many workhours did this take you...
Thanks.
what brand name of dial indicator did you purchase, and where from?
I just tested mine. it printed better than my Ender5. I can physically see a slight wobble on my right gantry but testing using your method showed nothing at all. Tested both sides and nothing. Do you have a video showing this wobble and what was showing up on your prints? I'd like to know if my wobble is NOT affecting my prints.
Interesting video, I was watching it and told myself, Damn! I dont have a gauge like that. It got me thinking that you could do the same thing with a cheap laser pointer attached to the extruder assembly with a quick cad design and a target on the bed and you'd see the wobble pretty easily
Great video and good explanation..
With the plate at the top of the Z, did you leave it with 2 screws or tighten it back up? If the latter, did you have problems getting it aligned to screw back in?
As you see it in the video is how I left it. Once I had it where I wanted it, I just made sure the screws were tight and that was it. Hope that is what you were asking.
@@CaM203 sure is, thanks!
Buenas. Buen video. Donde has conseguido los carros eje z de metal?? Un saludo
Thanks mate. So the only way that i can make that adjust is with that gauge? There is not other way? Thanks!
Well it’s really the only way to see and track the movements in these areas.
Hey Cameron, I loved the systemic approach to the analysis. How did you remove the plastic spacer blocks? It is not obvious
very easily- remove both top supports for threaded rod then loosen screws that hold thread rod in couplers at the motors. **be sure to support the gantry as it will fall** the just twist out rods and you can then remove the 4 screws holding them.
Amazing find Cameron. So if i understand correctly, the steps are to loosen the 3rd nut on the top rod bearing bracket, and dial in where needed while progressively moving up and down the z axis? or should you adjust for an overall difference with a small margin/tolerance for wobble? Thanks for any help! Hope this works for me as well, great work doing the R&D👍👍
Thank you for the kind words and yes you want the smallest of difference over complete travel. What you will find is its the complete system that needs to be looked at. The steps I talk about can be in any order, its just a method that I found to work to find areas of trouble. You may find the rods are very smooth top to bottom, but your gantry need attention, or the other way around. Just take your time and don't forget... don't sweat the small stuff and have fun printing!
@@CaM203 Really appreciate it sir! Keep up the great work!
Struggling to understand how this helps as if the rod is bent, it is bent - and the printer is designed so that it floats and does not transfer the wobble to the gantry. Maybe if the wobble is really bad the rod will hit the brackets and transfer the wobble and maybe your adjustments would help for that (as mentioned I don't quite get it).... One lead screw on my X1 wobbles quite a lot laterally, the other is straight, but it entirely floats and does not appear to transfer any wobble onto the print. In terms of gantry pitch changes probably tightening the rollers and possibly other adjustments you made help but I also don't see how that has anything to do with wobble in the lead screw(s).
It will not help if the rod is bent.
Has it ever happened to you that the printer randomly stops climbing during the print? like for several layers continuosly and at random points? Because it is a sort of z wobble but less regular and with the motors completely dead at least for 10-15 layers before returning to spin (and they don't most of the time)
Do you have an idea how the wobbling of the screw is influencing the head/gantry and would it be possible by properly decoupling x/y movement? It's my first printer and I haven't even used it yet. Just looking into the issues I can run into along the way.
neur303 it’s hard to know for sure. Best practice is to get belts tight, check and adjust the rollers for a smooth travel along their axis. Level the bed and just print stuff. You never know you might not have to do anything or have any issues. Learn how your individual machine is working and if needed you can fine tune it as you go. Most importantly just have fun printing!
@@CaM203 Indeed, thanks for your opinion! 🙏❤️
I think I am getting Z-banding, but even when I print a flat object, the first layer has banding on the surface. That's only the first layer. Can it still be Z-whopping causing the print head issue?
Hello, just new with this product. As I turned on my 3d printer, the bed does not move and error appears telling printer halted kill() called. I tried to press confirm but the next page has no option icon and reset option. What shall I do Sir?
What and where did you get the metal spacers that are on the z shaft. Great video, simple to follow.
Everything on the machine is from the machine. No other parts were added. What part were you asking about exactly?
@@CaM203 at the 1:27 mark. Or did you just remove the plastic part?
MDVYN correct I just removed the plastic parts.
@Cameron Is there a reason why you didn't put it back on after you straightened the rod?
@@Pokornz I'm guessing that they are there for when the rods are not nicely calibrated as his are right now, so adding them might make things worse? Not 100% sure really.
I wish you could come to my house and do this..lol
Haven't you noticed "artillery Sidewinder X1" that I have been defending your machine for a long time but I am now finding issues that need your attention, such as: I now have to print everything 10-20 degrees hotter than I previously had too! What is going on with your printer?
Colin Fielder have you joined their official Facebook group? Good place to ask these questions and good large group to help as well. Hey I am sure Artillery is not checking these videos out. If you do get some kind of answer on your question, please let me know the outcome.
Hi, do you use only one z-endstop?
Yes just the stock end stop nothing has been added to change from stock hardware.
Your runout guage should be in the middle of the unsupported section to get a real measurement of the play. I have an Anet A8 converted to an AM8 with an aluminum frame with 8mm linear guide rods, but I still get the _slightest_ z-banding that bugs me. I don't know if it's the video making the pattern, but look at your lead screws at 6:19 .......There is a definite pattern - you can see a dark thread separated by 3 lighter ones all the way up.Also, take into consideration that the runout guage has a spherical tip which will 'ebb' and 'flow' as it rides over and sinks into the threads of the lead screw. That's probably where the play comes from that you see on the gauge. Glad its fix tho!
I can visually see that my right rod, the same as yours, wiggles, I don’t need a dial to see the problem, it’s way off 😢
mactsk bummer but you can fix it! Even without a gauge
Where did you get that gauge?
You can easily find them on amazon or any supplier that sell tools. ‘Dial gauge’
@@CaM203 Ask for a dial micrometer
@@stewartbeckman7909 Dial indicator
So much work for an average printer
I was the 1,000th like 🎉 where my prize at 😂
4:02
Great the issue to my problem is solved. Only problem is that I'm too stupid to understand
it’s only some easy adjustments, you can do it.
@@CaM203 picked one up. Wish me luck
These nuts 4:02
im afraid to try this..ive seen vids where they have those 2 screws holding motor in place by using zip ties inside because there is no thread material because extrusion is hollow wonder if they fixed that
Yes the absolutely have fixed that. That was in the very first few machines.
so not gambling on this printer yet