Artillery 3D Sidewinder X1 Nozzle Changing
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- If your nozzle is clogged or you want to switch to a tougher nozzle for your printer this is how you go about doing it. As always take your time doing this as you run the risk of burning your fingers and damaging a few items but if done properly it can be very easy. I am using a MicroSwiss nozzle due to being USA made, and plated brass so no temperature adjustments are needed.
3D printed torque wrench if possible print this in a high-temperature filament or use it just when final tightening the nozzle into place as you can melt the end of a PLA one easily.
Tools required:
Adjustable wrench (Aff link): amzn.to/2XfIJVi
Thumb wrench (Aff link): amzn.to/2xnM6il
7MM Socket (Aff link): amzn.to/2XivhzT
Nozzles: store.micro-swiss.com/product...
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Ok, one thing that I forgot to mention is to let the hotend sit for a few minutes heated up and re-tighten the nozzle after everything has had time to heat up and expand. As always be careful and don't injure yourself!
I should have thought about that :D
No link to the torque wrench.
No link to the torque wrench.
Calvin, thank you for posting this, helped me replace my x1 nozzle.
Good stuff Calvin. Easy to follow and clear instructions. Thanks for sharing
Thanks, Thierry. Seeing that everyone has this itch to upgrade their hot end bits and are breaking things in the process I should do my bit to help.
What is the exact model for the all-metal throat? (I am assuming from Microswiss)
My Printer doesn´t worked but with your video my printer works again
my stock nozzle with the genius was gunked up with black plastic and had black plastic splashes all over it, so I changed it out (with this vid to help) to the e3d nozzles I bought as "spares" instead of just tightening it. I hope I didn't break anything in the process, wish me luck with my first print!!!
How do I know what nozzle I need to purchase? Do they all have the same thread??
Hi Calvin . If you are a changing nozzle size what are the changes you need to make in slicer setting .i'm using prusa slicer and i found profile from Facebook group where you have list of options for different sized nozzle and ist setting s.However i'm getting frequent clogs on the nozzle. I've always worked with 0.4 nozzle .i have some big parts to be printed and i want to try 0.8 and 0.6 mm .What do you suggest and what are the things you have to look out for ? Thanks in advance.
Thats my plan as well.... lots of different info on what nozzle to buy.
Thanks for the guide mate.
No problem 👍
Good tutorial Calvin. Should be very helpful to those who are new to 3D printing or 1st time changing the nozzle as the basics apply to just about all printers.
Thanks, Vince, the volcano is trickier only because of the long threaded part and the block orientation being different but the same rules apply for bracing the block, etc! I am working on a heat break swap and how to fix a broken heat break video.
You can make a mini series out of the hotend. I have so many ideas for videos but just can't get myself to film yet. I have a CR-10s Pro that I'm about to swap out the capacitive sensor with a regular inductive sensor and add anti backlash because the extruder side always sits a little lower because of the weight. Will try to film it but sometimes I just jump in and go and forget to. Need to make some content that will be helpful as 3D printing is growing and many people have questions and we have answers.... well hopefully we do.. lol
So should we lower our beds by a millimetre all the way round before homing and going through leveling, to avoid gouging the bed?
Pretty much, or just give the bed knobs a crank or two you are going to be redoing the leveling anyways so better to be too far than crash things, especially if you got a surface you are trying to save.
Hey, thanks for the video. My heat block is quite loose after I removed the nozzle, is this normal or should it be tight? It’s only loose when heated.
Thanks
Did you re-tighten it after heating and then let it cool?
You don't need thermal paste on the Volcano nozzle? Prusa nozzles always get a light coat of CPU or similar thermal paste...
Calvin, you’ve got a ton of printers in the back! What’s the best quality printer in the 150-1500 range that prints really good. I just order a Artillery X1 V4 to play around with.
Sidewinder X1 for a lower price and the OG prusa for a higher price.
I bought an 0.8 nozzle for my Genius will that be ok mate do you think. Thanks
I see no problems with that, just note you will need to check your gap for the first layer and you will need to increase your temps. Otherwise, go print =). I run a .6 occasionally on my Genius with no issues.
Hi Calvin, good video, the only thing that was not clear to me was how you unloaded the leftover filament form the extruder... I could not find such setting and I did not understand if you did this manually.
On most machines there is an "unload filament" script that heats the nozzle up. Alternatively you can manually heat the nozzle to temp and then gently pull it out manually.
great video. I just bought 1 of these and my 1st few prints came out great. I have purchased a Micro-swiss hot end nozzle off of there site but I noticed that my original hot end nozzle sits flush to my stock heat break, whereas yours has a slight gap. You in fact reiterated that detail in writing. Will this lack of a gap in my nozzle group be a problem for me by causing a nozzle clog if my new Micro-Swiss hot end sits flush with the stock heat break because it may NOT make a proper seal with the upper intake of the hot end nozzle? If so, would the solution be to tighten down the upper intake on the hot end nozzle down to create this 1 or 2mm gap I see that you have? Or am I just being anal?
What did you end up doing and did it work out okay?
i don’t know why but i can’t put any filament in it it won’t pull it in
where is the 3d printed torque wrench link?
Write this on google instead of youtube and you will find out.
so I did this and now the filament doesnt come out smooth, and it comes out a thick stream and glob. what happened?
Sounds like the nozzle/heat break/PTFE is not seated right. Double check the length of your new nozzle vs the original and make sure it is not bottoming out on the heater block and leaving a gap inside the heater block. Been there, done that, it happens to the best of us!
3Nm torque for the nozzle?
Oh dear. I always pushed it to the limit. Thanks for the hint :)
That is what is recommended and coming from someone who has broken heater assembly parts, it pays to do it right
You could make video of how to get jammed heatbreak from the backplate ... i just fucked up ..nozzle easy no problem , but the heat break i was trying for hour , at the end i broke it . Couldn't get it out no matter what ... Fortunately that back plate cost 10£ ,,so not horror movie ...but still ..
I have a video floating around about how to remove it, just make sure that yours is actually a threaded one.
you need to lower the intro volume or speak way lauder as theres to big a difference between the two.
Nice hair!