The Ultimate TPU? Achieve Shore Hardness Down to 55A and Beyond, ON YOUR PRINTER.
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- čas přidán 30. 06. 2023
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Today, whenever that is, we are looking at VARIOSHORE by colorfabb. Amazing stuff. Note, I bought the filament myself, no contact or endorsement or whatever with colorfabb.
Where to buy varioshore? Anywhere you can. 3djake has it in Europe, I bought mine from www.123-3d.co.uk/
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Mega game changer for printing shoes, vibration damping applications, probably Audio etc. This is awesome as heck.
applying linear heat to a relationship makes it foamy. good life advice tbh
This is actually super intriguing as it is clearly a development from the light weight PLA products that are super useful for model aircraft! Now we can adjust weight and shore hardness!!! There is so much this material can open up for printing!
Yeah, to me this is a bigger deal than lw-pla
@@LostInTech3D light weight PLA only really has niche uses. It is a significant trade off between strength and density and it is not linear, reducing the density by a percentage will reduce the strength by more than that percentage. It is fine when you need something lightweight but not that strong like plane wings. You do get multiple brands of lightweight PLA now, eSUN and Colourfab are the main ones.
@@conorstewart2214it helps that tpu inherently has amazing interlayer adhesion!
I've been using this stuff for a while. Printed a soft case for my battery bank. I do rope access work and we have to attatch rope protection sleeves to the ropes over sharp edges and I made quick attachment "loops" to keep them in place. The stretchyness of this stuff at max foam really grips the rope super well.
I've also printed the noses of my rc planes in this stuff for light bumps and it works great. Best part is that at max foaming the roll goes further and can print more parts. It is pricey but so worth it
It’s similar with the lightweight PLA. One roll could be the equivalent of 2 normal rolls so it being more expensive balances itself out.
As a former rock climber, though mostly indoor, and current engineer, this is cool. Can be done as a rubber band soft shackle for zero load pure friction items like you are probably talking about...
Or you could integrate soft shackles into a print to even allow low load placement of anything on the bottom of a horizontal rope with the reasonable assurance it won't come off the rope assuming the polymers don't degrade in sunlight.
The only way I could ddddř
Oh hey mike! Long time
This would also allow you the very the shore hardness within the same print. It would be cool to see some designs that could take advantage of this feature.
If you can vary the flow rate, yes, of course.
So walls different to infill for example. Otherwise it's going to need a slicer mod. Which would be totally doable but beyond my ability.
@@LostInTech3D Creality Print has flow multipliers for different types of features. I'm sure others do too, but doing it by layer would probably be manual, unless you faked a material change.... like you can do in PRUSA? Either way, lots of hackyness involved.
@@LostInTech3D prusaslicer has a function in the Custom G-Code section for Before/After Layer change G-code, and it allows for a condition based on the layer height, e.g. "{if layer_z
The areas you want different settings in make that its own model. Import the entire model and the section of model together and select the section and set new settings for the area overlap. This can be done with a basic plugin in cura (cube insert plugin I think)
@@LostInTech3D Cura has separate flow settings for walls, infill and such, even for outer and inner walls, so no problems there.
They are also available for modifiers like supports blockers and such.
I'm mostly interested in this filament for allowing to print matte TPU. The only other option is Fiberlogy MattFlex 40D, which prints incredibly well (I printed 4-5 rolls) but is has gotten more expensive now. I wish more filament manufacturers would make matte TPU as it has many usecases. Especially great for increased grip and super clean looking prints.
Cool material, thanks for the vid! The foaming action is an interesting way of being able to print softer than most extruders would feed. Might eventually replace the cast urethane that is often used for robot wheels...
Poisson's ratio is the ratio of - transverse strain/ axial strain or in simpler terms how much thinner does it get when strethed divded by how much longer it gets when stretched. The negative just insures that fpr most normal materials you work with a positive number. Materials that possess a negative poissons ratio are called auxetic and will get wider when stretched instead od getting thinner.
I am so glad someone finally made a video about Varioshore! I haven't seen many..
Great video! Thanks! I've been using this stuff for a few months now and love it. I generally print it at the highest temp as I'll use cheaper tpu if I don't need the soft foamy consistency. It is a unique filament that I keep in stock
Thanks for going deep on TPU. It is my favorite material to print with as it offers something unique that machining cannot.
I think the 55 A minimum hardness they specify is probably the minimum hardness just due to the foaming effect and for most reliable results you probably want to rely on the foaming, not adding gaps between lines of filament since the foaming alone may keep the part relatively durable but adding gaps between lines will probably reduce the durability of the part.
Thanks for sharing! Can't wait to try printing this.
i've been playing around with this filament at my place for work for the past few weeks. Quite the coincidence to see you post the video :)
Thank you for the many hours invested in this research!
Very interesting. A variable flow function might be worth adding to the slicers in the future. Perhaps the multi-colour mode can be modified so that it only changes the flow rate but not the filament. I hope there will be more of these tunable density filaments in the future.
These foaming filaments have been one of the most interesting things lately with 3d printing. The lwpla stuff is amazing stuff so I'd bet this stuff is pretty good as well. Might have to grab a roll and try it
love your videos, thank you for your work!
I'll bet this is sodium bicarbonate as an additive, I think that is what the expanding PLA's use. Super informative deep dive!
I bought some of this on impulse after my brain went crazy thinking about gradiented shore hardess on anything imaginable. Actually pulling that off cleanly will be another mater entirely. This is the video that finally encouraged me to open up a roll of TPU I've had waiting for over a year, this stuff is so damn tough.. Even the strings and whisps it makes are hard to break tbh. It's interesting how the popularity of bowden setups kind of shelved the 'practicality' of TPU, it prints clean with little smell, and has amazing layer adhesion and load-force transference.
a great. This helps me. Hope I can put it to my setup. Still learning alot and I am overwhelmed with the setup options on 3D printing as I am new to it.
Very cool! Thank you for all your time and effort here! Amazing stuff...
poissons ratio in structural eng is used to define how a materials stress distributes in different directions to the applied load
Great video as always
Can’t wait for the Neptune 4 review
Genius product. You will use up the entire roll just calibrating it.
Always love your rants!
wait for next vid then hahaha
Absolutely brilliant!! Well done, be proud of yourself
My very first TPU print was on a bedslinger with a standard Bowden tube extruder (Ender 3), came out well. Bedslingers do TPU well.
This is EXTREMELY cool and useful and my only real question is why doesn't the filament maker provide a useful chart like this? They should pay you for this info, hahaha.
A good question!!
Great video! I print a lot of TPU including a line of products that I sell, and I'd love to be able to print lower Shore hardness, even if it's a trick like foaming TPU. Apparently the VARIOSHORE TPU filament has been available for a couple of years but this is the first I'd heard of it. It's a shame it's three times the cost of the TPU that I currently use.
Hi, thanks for the great video. Do you think we can get air tightness or water tightness with 240% and probably 70A hardness?
"reverse bowdens" wouldn't be as big of a problem if people chose their tube more sensibly. There's no reason to use the same tube you would for a bowden as the filament does not need to be tightly constrained. 4mm tube with 0.5mm thick walls will let the filament slip through much more easily.
Hey, does this also work with the Snapmaker TPU95-HF fillament?
Is this stuff water proof? I need to print some water pipe rubber sealing gaskets which need to be about 55 shore, but im not sure this stuff will seal well. At the moment I'm printing the molds and casting two component silicone.. which is a lot of work.
Might be really interesting to use it for in-fill if you have a printer which can print with multiple filaments. I.e., a hard shell, and a soft infill where structural rigidity isn't important.
There's written so big both in the AMS than in the Bambu TPU pages, to not stuff which filaments into the AMS. But ooook, for the show! :D
i have this material myself havent played around with it much though. I wonder how the material will behave in regard to layer adhesion. Normal TPU makes for nearly unbreakable parts due to the flex and the adhesion but the gained flex will probably have lesser adhesion
What speed were you printing? I have a roll of overture easy nylon and have never had much luck out of it lol. Any info will be helpful. Thanks!
Got my Q5 delta printing this pretty much perfectly at the first try, in 4 degrees of foaminess. Haven't tried this new high-temp version though.
I can imagine the texture feels nice. Lightweight foaming PLA can produce a really nice texture that feels like denim or paper.
yeah it reminds me of wasps nest, if you print it with infill, very weird!
Poisson ratio is the ratio of expension in one direction as you compress in the other direction.
A sponge has a ratio closer to zero, playdough have a ratio closer to 1 if i remember right.
Really interesting stuff as always! I've been having a lot of fun printing with TPU lately, but have had some issues with outer walls delaminating. Do you have any other tips to prevent that?
print hotter, and make sure there's not too much side cooling.
5:40
In Engineering, Poisson’s Ratio is I believe the ratio between the strains vertically and horizontally. Been awhile since I took Strengths of Materials.
The closer to 1 you are, the more the material’s strain behaves the same in all directions. Meaning it deforms the same whether your stretching/compressing it horizontally or vertically.
If it’s above 1, you have a higher vertical deflection (meaning, in this case, the z-axis is more flexible). If it’s less than 1, you have more deflection in the horizontal direction (more flex in x and y axis). Makes sense considering how the z-axis printed material is interrupted with layer lines instead of a constant smooth line of material like in the x-y axis.
You're in the ballpark but got some things mixed up. Poisson's ratio is the ratio of transverse strain (perpendicular to loading) to axial strain (direction of loading). It normally ranges from 0 to 0.5, with 0.5 being an incompressible material. The upper bound is 0.5 and not 1 because there are two orthogonal axes to the loading, so for volume to be conserved the transverse strain has to be half of the axial strain.
In the context of 3d printing and layers, what you're talking about is an anisotropic material. Poisson's ratio is just a material property like Young's Modulus, the only reason we talk about direction with it is because we're concerned about how the material behaves relative to the loading. If it's different based on material orientation then the material is anisotropic, and the manufacturer should specify which orientation the property was measured in. It's kinda weird that they didn't, since the other material properties are different depending on orientation. Maybe the difference is just negligible, idk.
Lmao those slowmo shots had me tearing up with laughter
Thank you
The Flow Rate values (X-axis) on the "Shore Hardness vs Flow Rate" chart are weird. To the right of 70% you move linearly in 10% increments, but to the left you go from 70% to 100% (delta 30%) and from 100% to 105% (delta 5%). That will obviously mess with the slope of the plots (slope = rise/run) in that region.
That aside, this stuff looks pretty cool and I've been meaning to give it a try. Thank you for the very informative video.
Good spot...I hate excel sometimes
interesting, thanks
Nm. I actually see the spreadsheet that I wanted. Must of missed it. Thankies.
Love variosure. Figured it might have been that when i saw the title and thumbnail. I am also from the UK, and am also frustrated about availability and price 😅
Love the video. I've been struggling to even get 95a shore TPU I bought at MRRF to print on my SV06. Do you have any tips for printing flexibles on a finicky machine like this? I upped the temp to 250 and slowed it to
The SV06 extruder seems to either handle tpu really well, or not, depending on the exact unit. The way I solved it on one unit was to slow down retraction speed. I thought I had a profile for the 06 on my site but it seems to not be there. I'm annoyingly disorganised with machine profiles, I'll try to get something up there.
@@LostInTech3D Alright, thanks for the speedy reply! I messed with retraction distance, but not retraction speed. I'll be sure to check in on your website.
Thanks,
Adan
there is PLA that foams like that too called 'light weight PLA" and is used to make RC planes. Cheers
I wonder if the foaming prevents air gaps between levels
Im really interested in trying this material. Willow Creative equated this to like printing an EVA foam part, I work with EVA a lot, so i'm hoping this material is a great middle ground material for the work I do.
yeah it really does feel like EVA at full expansion
Hi! What was it about the Creality printer that inhibits this material from being used? I couldn't quite catch what the issue was in the video? Is it the tubing or the nozzle type? I have applications for this kind of material and was hoping i could use it on a Creality machine. Probably a newer Ender Model? I've worked with the Creality 10 in college and seemed very modular in that ours didn't have the tube feed part.
That should answer the question czcams.com/users/shorts7RTSwh7SWeE?feature=share
@@LostInTech3D ah! Thank you. I was also looking into it a little more. We never learned the finer differences between Bowden and direct drive in uni. (or I didn't absorb the information) so I went digging. I also found a lot of information on converting ender 3's to direct drive. And upgrading parts. Seems like there is a printed set of parts that will help or a kit directly from Creality if I'm not feeling confident about tampering with homemade parts.
I did a vid on that too... about a year and a half ago. It's easier than you think, no firmware changes or anything. I used the creality dd extruder but printing it works ok too.
@@LostInTech3D Excellent! I'll be sure to look into it more later down the road, I'm just getting reaquainted with the 3d printing world with PLA projects rn. So far so good tho! I'm very much looking forward to printing soft things later!
I should point out the Bambulab can print tpu, just not with the ams
Also thst filament looks neat as well. Can't wait for a manufacturerwho whose product I can reasonably access in Canada to either license this tech or makes their own version.
Honestly if this is like under $60 Canadian per roll,and works with the AMS, I would totally be interested in picking it up as one of my regular filaments. Imagine the posibilities. Next step is to have a water tight version. I would assume such a thing wouldn't foam but imagine the uses!
As an engineering student, I'm happy to say I was taught what the poisson ration is :) Unfortunately, I don't remember it lol
Does the material have a somewhat tacky rubbery texture at all when printing at low shore numbers? I'm thinking about getting some of this filament to make some rc car tires before I go all out making foam rubber tires
no it becomes pretty much like EVA foam and not rubbery at all.
Wonder if you could adjust temp/flow rate mid print to have some of the part hard and some soft, while only using one filament and printing all at once
Hold that thought 😁
The k1 has come a loong way since this video came out. I can easily print any you with stock nozzle
Can you use another shape as modifier for various shore hardness in single print proces?
Yeah I think so
Might be useful for fpv quad parts to make them more impact resistant
Why I think its linear: The temperature linearly changes how much heat is put into the filament and therefore directly and linearly impacts how much time the expandable bits have to expand. That would explain why expanding filaments typically ooze a lot more.
would it be possible to use this for clothes- those bubbles allowing for the fabric/skin underneath to breathe?
It's an interesting idea, but out of my expertise.
Do you need a special printer?
If reverse bowden is a problem would a remote filament sensor also cause an issue? I assume no, but I am not experienced enough with any TPU to be sure because I have no experience with TPU.
yeah anything that adds friction is a problem, I covered this in the TPU video before this one
i wonder what kind of coating would work afterwards that's both lightweight but also can make those part water tight
I don't think they need to be water tight, I think they will be buoyant.
How about layer adhesion? Tpu normally has an outstanding layer adhesion, does the foaming affect it?
the layer adhesion seems very good tbh, I may be doing a part 2 where I can look at this along with a couple other things, or they may end up in short format.
what is the toxicity of the printed part? is it safe for prolonged skin contact? a lot of elastics/foam tend to lose their elasticity from mild heat, pressure, sunlight, time & certain chemicals like swimming pool water (w/ chlorine). how long/well do you see the parts printed in this material lasting?
theres an MSDS on colorfabb's website, most of the answers are in there, although you'd have to ask them about the chlorine.
I print TPU functional prints regularly and the varioshore is great for RC airplane tires. I originally tried Ninjatek Chinchilla for the tires but I just can't get a print to finish. I've tried all my DD printers going all the way down to 5mm/sec with no luck. Best I've done is about half a 20mm test cube on my E3S1Pro. Ideas??
you may want to check my last tpu video, chinchilla is I think 85? A so it probably needs pulling off the reel to print on an ender3 S1 pro, I specifically talk about the sprite in that video.
Did you try the sort of recommended way of calibrating lightweight PLA? You print a small one walled box at different temperatures and for lightweight PLA you find the one with the thickest walls but for varioshore you would probably pick the one with the hardness you want. Then you repeat the test at that temperature at different flow rates and you see what flow rate gives you a thickness equal to the nozzle diameter and then you print with those settings, so you get the chosen density (in this case hardness) and it foams up to the nozzle diameter when it prints.
yeah I saw mention of that, you could see that was happening in some of the samples, so you could certainly pick those out and use that temp/flow rate. I don't feel like it's process critical for TPU but, it might be. There's so much leftovers from this video that I think a Pt2 is inevitable.
what if you changed the hardness in the middle of the print like you could make sure that a part boucles in a predictable manner by having regions of higher or lower degrees of foaming
sure, you could do that with modifiers based on height, idk if you can do it in different areas on one layer, with current slicers
I was thinking of getting a Creality K1 and running it at a speed that reliably prints TPU, to have the higher speed for printing ABS, etc. When printing TPU, I'd eliminate the reverse Bowden tube and would hang a reel of filament directly above my 3D printer and feed it directly into the extruder as I do on my Sovol bed slinger.
I will at least attempt to test that, for tpu. The extruder is new so I intend to dive into that.
Use 3mm ID bowden. Simple solution.
I can't even keep overhangs from curling with MatterHacker's Pro Series TPU... How did you get those bunnies looking so good?
So unless you have a video I missed, I give up on TPU unless I'm printing Phone cases.
I just want a TPU Benchy that looks good.
Huh, try a different tpu, they normally behave fine?
try reducing nozzle temp, I run jayo 95a at 195C with generic PLA profile in cura heat bed off 100% fan after 4 layers, aqua net hair spray as bed adhesive, benchy comes out good.
I'm waiting for your K1 review, it's been tough trying to find somebody who isn't just mining the soft temperament of the Bambu Lab crowd.
And my Super Racer has been pi55ing me off lately, and it will find its way to the ghettos of Marketplace when I find a suitable replacement.
On another note, you probably have contact with Creality. It would be nice to know when/if they plan to release the Lidar module.
The K1 rollout has been.....interesting for sure lol. I will be asking about the lidar and camera and max
Ideally you can plot the data in Excel using a scatter plot. Tough to see linear relationships if the X and Y axis are not linear themselves.
and there is me who printed some 60A TPU from Recreus for fun.
I've got a roll of this stuff as well. CNCkitchen did a video on this a while ago quite useful as well, imo. One thing I'm really struggling with is stopping and restarting extrusion so it doesn''t look like total crap. (pardon my french)
Speaking of french. Poisson is french and means "fish". Judging by the grossness of your extrusion footage, your poisson rate must be around 150%. Which is odd, but what do I know, they managed to get 160% of volume out of 100% of material, the math doesn't add up either way.
Can't the reverse Bowden be removed or just clipped to a very short tube and spool fed in from above?
yeah - I plan to try this in the review for the K1
You could print some nice fabric with this...
Wonder if this would make a useable "airless" basketball?
On reverse bowden. Use 3mm ID instead of standard 2mm... this solves the aforementioned issues.
I love getting clogs when I run TPU 😂😂😂
i saw you put that tpu in the AMS and instantly started screaming
Even I can't make that work
You don't need a bed slinger. My corexy doesn't have a reverse bowden, unless I'm printing from an airtight drybox.
This stuff is pretty great. But is currently limited by software. Slicers can't handle the idea that the filament will expand more if they slow down the extrusion rate. So you basically just have to print it at a constant and very low speed.
Could you print custom washable air filters like this?
I don't think so. I think it's a closed-cell foam.
Im interested. I print alot of drone parts like arm gaurds and bumper type things as well as gopro camera shells. I can do it in normal tpu but its always annoying.
perfect for that application
Hey, my PETG does the same thing when I don't dry it in the 2 hours between prints
leverage that :D
the most important thing u may do with soft materials is SEALS. complex customized seals , for shafts , bearings , strange bottle caps , etc .
plase do that.
Thats awesome! Print a sponge 😂
Anyone else have a TPU voron? Just for the memes really. Sounds like chaos
jelly-ron lol
That’s a perfect name. I love it
Filament extrusion is not "gross". It's a natural part of life.
Bah, I just realized this would still be too soft when unformed to go through the AMS. I was so excited at the idea of buying tons of rolls of this stuff to do composite prints with stiff and flexible.
Best thing with this TPU is it clogs my omniadrop if i run it faster than 1.8mm^3/s. :)
Which direct drive printer is better for tpu?
Most can now handle tpu, as long as they don't have any upstream tubing.
I have used it, and the problem that I had was that yes, you can achieve lower hardnesses, i printed to achieve 60A, but the problem is that usually with 60A TPU you have a rubberous material, that sticks really well to surfaces, like a really sorf tire, and with this fillament, foamed, you loose the rubber feel of the surface, and the grip that goes with soft rubbers
You could probably mitigate that by adding a texture I guess
Corrections:
- not all tpus underflow. (Can’t generalize because it might induce others in error)
- the type of durometer you used is only adequate for solid materials, (in this case only for the unfoamed print). This means all of the measurements of the foamed prints are innacurate/incorrect. (Yeah if you want to have an idea of the change in hardenss to play arround, it’s “ok”; but it’s not scientifically accurate)
Cool overview though.
Eh, air filled foams are tested for shore hardness all the time, if you think about it, it's valid.
I wonder what hapens if you bake it after printing
Nothing good, I'm sure
I just realized that Lost in Tech is *Lit*
👌
For better or worse, I'm betting the softer varioShore prints aren't as grippy as a low hardness TPU. You probably don't want handles to be sticky, but it's nice for tires.
indeed
I still dont understand why people say tpu is hard to print... i can print 70A shore tpu on my cheap unmodified anycubic chiron with the same settings i use for pla.
The only thing i do different is reduce the thigntness of the extruder to allow it to slip instead of clog the boden tube