3D Printing In TPU - Tips and Tricks
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2018
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A good way to remove TPU parts from PEI bed is to drop Isopropyl alcohol at the base of the print before trying to remove it. Make sure the base of the print is surrounded by a pool of alcohol. Once you start to pry it off the bed, the alcohol gets between the print and the bed and it's much easier to remove. I never damaged a PEI sheet since I use this method.
Helpful tip: "Avoid crossing outline for travel movements" is also known as "combing" on other slicer software.
Just getting into tpu, I've been messing around with it this whole weekend with no luck. After watching your video it makes so much sense. I will try to dry it in the oven and look into all the settings. Prints have been taking forever but I rather have pristine quality. Many many thanks for this.
Probably the most important video for 3d printing with TPU filaments to watch. Thanks Joe for sharing this, I have learned a lot from this video and plan to test out these methods on some TPU prints ASAP. Awesome stuff.
Great tips. It was very eye-opening just how much "soggy" filament effects the print. On a side note, when printing in TPU, I go old school and use blue painter's tape. It works perfectly.
Thanks Joe! I just used Amazon Basics Red TPU for the first time and had the filament pop out of the extruder on the MK3. SO I took your advice, and lower ALL my speeds to identical values of 20mm and have had fabulous results.
Your tutorial about TPU is just perfect, thanks so much Joe !!
Excellent and transparent video. You're honesty about sponsors is very refreshing. The information in your video was exactly what I was looking for as I have just ordered my first roll of TPU filament. Thanks again
One of the most helpful explanation on CZcams within the 3D Printer area, really appreciate your knowledge sharing Joe.
I found that faster print setting reduces the sizzling on my Delta Kossel Mini. Because entrapped water doesn't have enough time to burst into the vapor bubbles. My prints at 30mm/s come out exacly like like these bad print examples in the video, but with 50mm/s - the results are perfect. Used fillament is a Hatchbox TPU at 210 deg. Standing open on my desk near the printer for a months already. Also a trick with reducing temperature to 205 deg also does the job instead of icreased speed. So it's all about to find the perfect ballance between the feedrate and nozzle temperature to do it fast enough not let water burst into vapor bubles. Meaning - to give just enough energy to melt a fillament and have bonded layers in the print, but not enough to let the water in the fillament accoumulate so much heat that it bubles it. Some say that this is crazy, because water starts boiling at 100C and nozzle is over 200C. But the physics says that the water boiling temperature actually depends on pressure inside the container in which it entrapped - here we have the pressure of sorrounding TPU material that your extruder motor creates sqeezing it into the nozzle. I have my slicer extrusion rate set at 110..120%, meaning it tries to squeeze more TPU than it actually requires. So I assume that is what creatses this excess pressure on entrapped water and at the right speed and temp it doesn't sizzle. I also have cooling fans spinning at full speed.
Thanks for the tips! I use a very light coating of parting dust for metal casting on my PEI sheet and it works great for removing the print. (basically talc powder with out any additives)
Great info, the tip to set all the printing speeds to the same number made a huge difference for me. I'm printing on a JG Aurora A5 and was about to give up printing with NinjaFlex, but after checking all my speed settings and seeing the ups and downs in the speeds I set everything the same and can now print very detailed pieces as fast as 20 mm/s. THANKS !!!
my first TPU spools just arrived and now it all makes sense why it came with a large minigrip bag, definitely going to make sure it doesn't get too wet particularly because my printer is near my kitchen. Should've maybe researched a bit in advance but hopefully I can make some cool stuff with TPU, there's been many flexible prints I've wanted to make
Some good tips there! The comparisons of dry/wet filament prints were great. Low(ish) speed (40-50mm/sec for me on a direct drive) and dry filament is the way for sure. Retraction is the other thing that seems to kill the strings. On my Sovol SV01 (direct drive) I'm using 4mm retraction at 30mm/sec and I'm surprised if I see more than one or two strings in a print if the filament is dry, which it always is now that I'm using a dry box.
You literally saved me! The noise you recorded... now I understand why all my TPU prints sucks :D
I love that magigoo adhesive, especially the mater soluble feature. I've had some big TPU prints that refused to separate from the plate, and with a little water and capillary action it lifted right off.
Loving the 4k :) Really shows off the differences in those prints so well! Great little "gadget" idea for your door too :)
Jost watched this video. Wow 2 years ago. I am just new at 3d printing and am hooked. It's great especially in this boring time if covid lol. So the other day I received my 1st tpu filament and tried it out on my ender 3 pro. Didn't work out too well, it kept on jamming up between the feeder gear and the tube. This video was awesome it answered my questions now to try out the lower speed settings. Thank you so much
This was amazingly informative, thank you. I would have never thought about baking my filament before printing. I leaveit in the bag with desiccants, but now I think I will try baking.
You were spot on when you said I would be getting my printer soon! Heard from Prusa today that it shipped! Can’t wait! Nice swag by the way, and great info in this video!