ZOHD Altus, the followup video
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- čas přidán 11. 05. 2024
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![☀ Как ставятся FPV рекорды. 30км+ на маленьком РУ самолёте + тест Tango2 [ZoHD Dart250G LR Record]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n8IDieH0xeU/mqdefault.jpg)
16:15 I always watch yours to the end, one of the best plane/INAV/Ardu channels on here 👍👍
Great video Keith ! Great setup. And yes, we all watch this up until the end ;-)
12:30 nice lightning strike!
I was wondering if anyone would notice... lol
Fantastic flying and review, Keith! 😃
It looks like a pretty fun airplane!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks! It's certainly fun to fly, but I think most planes are... lol
The foam nose looks much nicer. Like how you set up the pan servo, almost like it was meant to be.
Interesting how the gps altitude had such an influence over the integrated altitude even with sensor fusion. The wild jumps in altitude based on poor gps might be something the INAV devs might want too look into. Great tips on the mods. Glad to hear it's now a fun flyer.
Yeah I was sure that the altitude issue was something related to the barometer, but apparently not... lol Maybe it is something about the way Inav is using the two sources of altitude, but that's just a guess on my part.
I used to get jello on my camera with that style servo Pan you have until I took off the control horn and stuck a o-ring between it and the servo body to tighten it up.. Jello was gone after that
I've done that on a couple others as well and it does help. These servos aren't particularly loose, but I guess it doesn't need much to induce jello into the video... lol I'll remember to stick an o-ring on this one and see if it improves!
On the video "Jello", I have a "News Flash!" for you- but first- Thanks for the videos. Keep keeping them short and sweet, sharing what you do and what you learned. We are all learning along with you. RE "JELLO"- everyone flying models like these has jello issues to one degree or another. It it not your fault, or the camera manufacturers fault, and NO, no amount of image stab. is going to fix it completely- it is simply a consequence of everything being so light and in a high vibration environment. There is a reason why the real cinema guys (who the movie companies use) use quadcopters that weight 30-40 lbs. That said, here are some tips to minimize the "Jello" A) You mentioned you are balancing the props- keep doing that as ultra fanatically as you can. B) Vibration mount your motors with 4 cylindrical mounting dampers in an "X" config., w/each mounted at a 45 deg. inward or outward angle. Sorbothane is by far the best material for this, but not so easy to source/expensive. Many other materials can do a decent job and are much less expensive/easy to get. C) Ultra-Rigidly attach your camera and servo and video transmitter, and even 1-2 other things to one ultra rigid (metal or CF) frame, and them mount all that you your model using the same vibration isolation method as described for the motor. D) Avoid the nose, tail, or either wingtip as a mounting point. The center of the model is always the best from a least vibration perspective. In the case of THIS model here, the nose is actually not so bad.
nice flight, I wonder if you have setup differential thrust? would be interesting though.
I'm not using differential thrust.
Hi, thanks for the follow-up video. I have similar setup. Just wondering why didn't you remove 5v lines for Motor outputs, SpeedyBee Manual recommends to do so if ESC BEC is not used.
Right, there's 2A BECs in the stock ESCs. Normally I'd pull the red wire at the FC, but it was easier to do these in the wings where the ESCs plug in there while I had the covers off. I probably should have pointed that out in the video. ;)
@@bonafidepirate thanks for the confirmation 👍
What antenna setup do you have on your goggles to get that kind of range? I have goggles X
I'm flying this one using the VRX module. I have two TrueRC X2 Airs, one of those is the transmitting antenna. The other two antennas are triple feed patches. This setup should be capable of a lot more range than I've been with it.
Hi , please can you advise if you need to use the Walksnail Goggles to receive the HD OSD feed from the Walksnail VTX ? .. I’m new to the HD FPV and looking to switch over from analogue FPV .. thanks in advance
Yes, you need a Walksnail receiver. There's the original goggles from Walksnail and Fatshark, the only difference being the color. Those have been discontinued now but are still available if you look around a bit. There was also the Fatshark Recon HD that's compatible. The most recent is the Goggles X from Walksnail, those are current. There's also the VRX module that has an HDMI output to work with goggles that have HDMI input, or anything else that can display HDMI. I personally use the VRX module and run it to a monitor, since I prefer a monitor over goggles most of the time.
@@bonafidepiratethanks for the quick reply , much appreciated 👍
I noticed that today as well with the cruise throttle. Amp draw VS normal throttle Amp draw noticed that today and I thought that was very weird as well. It was also my first time flying. Inav 7.1. On my swordfish
This is the first time I've noticed it, but I haven't flown Inav in a while other than on the Penguin. That one had 6.something, not sure exactly which. The Altus has 7.1.0