Gigabyte RTX 4090 - How to destroy a brand new card?
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
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this guy has got to be the most advanced logic board repair engineer in the world, i do the same or similar work and i am so so jealous how advanced you are and skilled i dont think ill ever get this good , on the other hand i wont do CPU/GPU BGA jobs dont have the skills nor the equipment but just wanted to drop a line to give you the respect and credit you deserve
Isn't there an apple repair guy in NYC that might be equivalent to this guy?
I agree! I was amazed to see him repair a via under a GPU BGA pad by drilling a hole through the PCB and running a botch wire. And get this... The botch had to reach a trace on the 2/3rd layer so he found a spot on the trace path where he could sand down to it without hitting other traces. Best repair work I've seen in years and he makes other CZcams electronic repair channels look amateur. Total master.
This guy is awesome.
But I would have to be an expert in repairing and would need to know all repair technicians which exists to rate him “most…. of the world”
What a gut-punch! 2000 Bucks down the drain because someone thought using Liquid Metal is just like using thermal paste and didn't research proper usage first. Very expensive learning experience and a quite effective cautionary tale. Too bad about the Card - my condolences to the owner despite all else.
Whoever learned this lesson clearly needed it.
Hey, at least they learned it now. Lord knows what the -90 cards will cost 5 or 10 years from now, would probably suck a lot more to have to learn it then.
People say it's a very expensive 2000 dollar mistake but if the guy has to buy another 4090, then it's actually a 4000 dollar mistake. Oof
@Thomas B I'll counter with, what goes through Joe Brandon's mind? Nuff said.
@Thomas B I'd assume the owner wanted to integrate the GPU into his/her Watercooling loop - which is not too problematic if done correctly. Why on earth they decided to use Liquid Metal still boggles my mind...
I’ve been doing component level repair for 20 years and I’ve never been close to what you’re doing here. 2 layers, maybe 3… very impressive even with the nice tools. A true master
im very hesitant to give spoilers but as for now they sounds like an iem, thats it, i dont hear hopes
thats no mastery. gpu rapair is easy, the most special stuff is in the core. and they cant repair it, only change. and u can do it easy, with the right tools ^^
@@fellpoweryes, that's why this is so common
@@fellpower Care to post a video?
Did you see the video where he fixed a trace connected to a via at the GPU BGA pad? He also had to hit it's trace a couple layers down mid PCB without hitting other layer traces.
i have done a lot of soldering in my life and i know my way around circuit boards, but what you do on this tiny components is like pure magic to me.
keep up the great work, i love watching your videos.
I find these kind of repair videos to be like therapy, very relaxing and satisfying.
To watch someone do effortlessly what would make you give up. I have a dead ASUS motherboard from trying to remove the backplate to install a CPU fan, the screwdriver sliced through some trace lines. The time and effort (after putting in time and effort) and failing wasn't worth the cost of the MB.
This guy could have it fixed faster than Alice could serve up minute rice.
But yeah, very relaxing and interesting to watch!
Liquid metal is always the best friend of repair technicians
Some bad descision were made there, but an absolute joy watching you work on gpus :-)
which ones?
@@Radek__ using liquid metal when you dont know how.
@@kimborch8547 oh I thought that you are saying about Kirs, that his decisions during service/maintenance were bad.
@@Radek__ Oh, ok. No no, Kris does some amazing work on this, as well as other cards.
This channel is an absolute gem. Thank you for this video.
Too bad that the card was unsalvageable.
Big ouch. Liquid metal on the gpu for 2-3°C better temperatures is not worth the trouble.
This!
Liquid metal for 1k $ less in your pocket :D
@@madmartigan9720 The cheapest RTX 4090 from Gigabyte that I've found goes for €1899 where I live (which exchanges to roughly $2014 as of this post), so that's well over $2k down the drain (especially if you count the extra cost for the liquid metal, shipping for all these products, etc.).
It's never about the thermal compound used anyways, its about how much heat the cooling can dissipate, the bigger the gap in dissipation temps the faster the temp is dragged out of the chip.
But too large and you cause condensation from moisture in the air.
it's not "2-3c" more like 5-15c
AFAIK 4090s have only 2 main 12V power planes. 1 for ALL the Vcore VRMs and 1 for ALL the memory power. A fuse for Vcore that wouldn't blow under regular operation would have to be rated for like 50A. MSI does put a fuse on their memory 12V power plane but they are the only manufacturer I've seen do that and they also don't have fuses for Vcore.
Wow, I did not know this. Thanks for the info
my MSI Suprim X (air cooled) died after the first day (no experiments, it was in original condition). 😞
By night, Kris plays in a band called "Gallium Corrosion".
The genre is a fusion of Liquid DnB and Death Metal.
For water cooling GPUs, it's not necessary to use liquid metal. Just get Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut. It is more than enough, with good radiator setups and fans you will not even reach 70°C on the hotspot, ever.
“But it can give me 2 degrees lower temps!!! That so much more performance I can get!”
I like waterblocks. Always have and always will, just because of the aesthetic and the noise levels.
Liquid Metal is only useful for delidding and relidding a CPU die.
Even though I get watercooling your card it's not even really necessary with 4090's from a temperature perspective, they're all so overbuilt.
Don't use Thermal Grizzly thermal pastes. Just use Gelid Extreme. It is literally the exact same formula, doesn't cure or dry out like Thermal Grizzly, and it costs only 20% the price of Thermal Grizzly.
This guy was just to dumb to use it. He didn't even used any protection for the transistors around the CPU
Why even bother if you are not going to go all the way?
Damn, and I was scared to replace the thermal pads on my 3090 FE with better pads (though I finally did replace them without any issues) - I can't IMAGINE murdering an even more expensive GPU with what appears to be a completely unnecessary mod. That sucks!
Especially as you can buy reassembled water block gpus.
Only an idiot does it himself and void warranty for water block.
@@romangruber6685 Hey, here's the idiot, who do this for fun and cause I know what I do. I optimize my systems for low temp, low noise and as much power, as needed. If you know what you're doing, it's absolutely fine and doesn't harm. My 1080 OC was running 5-6 years with 30% OC, undervolting and a max temp of 46°C for several thousands of hours and life's till today. Also my i7-6700k run the same time, mostly stock, Direct-die and a max temp of 52°C in a ultra-silent system. That's what I'd like to achieve.
Actually I'm running my i9-13900k (E-Cores deactivated, cause my screws on the contact frame are to short) and a 3080ti in a silent system with max temps at 60 on the CPU and 50 on the GPU. I'm waiting for my Direct-die upgrade kit and some other parts and then I'm going in the same direction, but without an aggressive OC, cause it's not necessary at the moment.
I'm enjoying such work and love to optimize the systems, as much as possible.
Also liquified some laptops, with dedicated GPUs, which got a new life, cause before, they had temps nearly instant at 100°C and couldn't utilize nearly half their power.
@Thomas B Why?
@@PsychEngel Same question WHY what do you gain from it from my experience basically next to Zero gain .
@@petenikolic5244 I can't see his answer anymore. Do you know what he wrote?
Really enjoyed that, thanks. That gallium liquid metal is so dangerous in the wrong hands.
Some bare minimums when using liquid metal IMO, cover the entire PCB with protection (I use paper stuck down with electrical tape) while applying to prevent accidents. Coat any caps/resistors on the die using nail polish. Use a very small amount of liquid metal, work it out using the supplied spudger. Get some pre applied ahesive open cell foam gasket strips from your local hardware store and apply around the chip so if any liquid metal escapes there is a good chance it will be caught by the foam.
Or just you know, dont use liquid metal... lol
don't use nail polish, use proper electrical conformal coating - nail polish contains moistourisers, vitamins/minerals with penetrators, etc.. since it's meant to go on biological matter, which may end up corroding the components over time and heat cycles. the £2 you save on using nail polish is not worth it
Or you know look at the ingredients?@@glebglub
@@glebglub Good advice! Can conformal coating be purchased in small tubs?
@@eudaimonia9386 small tubs, big jugs, sprays, toothpaste-tubes, syringes, pens... in other words yes lol. some are UV reactive though (like a solder mask) so make note if it is an needs/comes with a UV torch, or have a 24-hour cure period due to being evapourative meaning it may dry up like super glue/caulk once opened, 2 part epoxy, etc.. I honestly forget which one is "best" for this use-case (guessing silicone-based but don't quote me on that, it may be acryllic afaik), I just remember you don't want to go *too* thick else it wil impede its ability to radiate heat, but the same can be said about nail polish anyway
I recently watercooled my Gainward 4090, instead of Conductonaut (Liquid Metal) I now used MX-6, performs really good and no risk as shown in the video.
A little too expensive to experiment with it haha, although I always was very careful, tape off areas etc etc, never had problems but this time I was naaah, let's just use MX-6.
I'm just blown away... I understand modifying your hardware etc but when it's brand new like that, I guess I've just never had the money to afford losing to even consider modifying something that is worth thousands of pounds and still in warranty.
Early deaths of any given hardware in the first 3 months are are anything but uncommon... this is why you have warranty. It's good to get past that stage at least.
But it's more fun to wait till hardware has all its warranty lapsed and has as little residual value as possible and then go WILD.
Its like investing, dont do it if you cant afford to lose it all
I have put 240w and liquid metal and custom water on a brand new ryzen 3950x and got into the top 20 in the world in some benchmarks for that model of CPU, though over time more dedicated overclockers beat me. Gotta be fast if you want you name on top of the list of fastest CPUs even for a day. Probably could have done top ten if I delidded it. Maybe when I save up enough pennies to buy and delid a ryzen 7950x with some drr5... or 8950x even...
It's a bit scarier to do this to GPUs since they cost more and have more vulnerable parts near by which are slightly more challenging to protect. I usually just cover everything nearby with liquid electrical tape so any spills can be peeled off. Saved a laptop from some clumsy fingers this way.
I'm developping an addiction to "GPU repair videos"
I see people in forums and in comments talking about using liquid metal, like it’s something to be taken lightly, I’m not using liquid metal on anything I can’t isolate. So that if it leaks out, no damage can be done. For example, on CPUs I have delidded, I always seal up the IHS so no liquid metal can escape. And I’m 100% not using it on a GPU. It’s not worth the risk for a 10C temperature reduction that might get me an extra few MHz
I love your style, calm voice and demeanor. Good audio, good camera work, all around excellent. I can watch you do repairs all day
Is it a declaration of love and marriage proposal?
Bin immer wieder beeindruckt, wie man an so filigranen Bauteilen arbeiten kann. Ich arbeite in einem Bereich, in welchem man scherzhafterweise alles unter M12 als Feinmechanik bezeichnet.
When I had a liquid metal spurt from the syringe that got under a memory chip on a 1070 MXM that luckily only caused a code43 in device manager, I managed to get it out using copious 90+% isopropyl and compressed air, outside, so the LM ended up somewhere in the backyard. Card still works. I have found isopropyl and paper towel is good for surface cleanup
I've washed cards in soapy water before that had nicotine stains that I got cheap. It won't hurt it any but like you mentioned, use alcohol on it then compressed air real good under all the SMD parts. Alcohol will mix with water and evaporate much better, and air drys it out. The key is completely dry under all the parts, GPU included. Having a air compressor to do it is recommended though... Lol.
Some people are unqualified to buy PC hardware, the owner of this GPU is one of them
I was just getting ready to purchase a 4090 and Im glad to hear about this gigabyte issue about the lack of fuses. With your vast experience and knowledge which of the 4090 cards manufacturers would you say is the best build quality? I have read msi but your opinion would be of greatest value. Thank you for your time and providing this type of content and information to us.
Techpowerup has PCB shots of most cards. From a cursory glance, the Palit/ Gainward Gamerock OC looks to be the most "fused-up" 4090 that has a clockspeed above 2600
Thank you for publishing another video :D
I really enjoy watching professional level repair even though I repair circuits only as a hobby.
On the other hand, I would never consider repairing after such a mess from liquid metal, if I had such expensive tools.
I've been building and modding PC's for many long years now, I have seen liquid metal come and go from fashion and usually after a great many folks have murdered their electronics they have fallen out of vogue. I think the concept is right on the money, however we need a medium that a) doesn't munch other metals b) doesn't conduct angry pixies but c) acts exactly as a stay liquid thermal conductor. I am thinking some of the inert silicone compounds would be well suited, we know silicone is not destructive to other materials and can be made electrically inert fairly easily too, keeping it liquid so it doesn't solidify would be the key here, prob infused with nano-plastics or ceramics would give it a more stable rigidity too. Gallium is an incredible metal but will munch virtually every metal and alloy out there, even if it doesn't break metals down it will contaminate and weaken to a point of uselessness very quickly. Gallium is also incredibly adept at escaping constraints and when its cooked up produces an even nastier oxide which is how I think the stuff is escaping from PS5's, heats up, oxides, escapes as a semi gas, cools down, becomes liquid again munch munch munch bang.
Gallium has a thermal conductivity of 29 W/m K, it's actually not all that ideal as a cooling medium but some people think because it's liquid and easy to apply it must be great to use because they see it mentioned on some YT tech channels.
Copper has a thermal conductivity of 400 W/m K, which is why it's perfect for heat sinks and for the lids of CPUs/GPUs but it's not "liquid" and not easy to apply.
But idiots will always want that 2-4 degree C "improvement" for bragging rights while using materials which are "convenient".
The best thermal conductor to use and is very malleable but chemically inert is Gold with a thermal conductivity of 320 W/m K in the form of thin gold foils, but most people don't want the expense and the inconvenience.
I have used liquid metal on so many applications I even did liquid metal on my reference Rx 6900 xt when it was brand new coated $1000 and just released. Liquid metal isn't that dangerous if you know how to use it and take some precautions.
I bought another MSI Rx 6900 xt trio x, put a waterblock on it and liquid metal. This time it was the closest I got to failer but my precious saved me.
I cover the small components just around the die with multiple layers of nail polish. When I was spreading the liquid metal I actually spilled a little over the edge of the die but the nail polish did its job. I removed as much as I could but there are still a little bit stuck in the nail polish but hey 2 years later the card have never had any issues.
So my advice to liquid metal users:
1. Coat the small components around the die with clear nail polish as thick as you can get.
2. Use both hands to push the liquid metal out.
One hand holds the tube, and with the other hand you use two fingers to hold around the piston 1 mm from the tube, that way the tube acts as a stop and you don't overspill. Push 1mm, move your fingers 1mm up and repeat until it starts coming out.
Also if there comes to much all of a sudden you can instantly retract the piston sucking back the liquid metal.
If you use that technique you will never spill liquid metal.
Or I just put the LM straight on to the tip of the cotton bud then on to the chip!
@@samtaliano6814 Not a good idea because now you have to carry exposed LM over all the components, if you put too much LM on the tip and it drips or you drop the cotton bud you are fucked.
In the beginning I used a coffee plate to put the LM on first and then dip the cotton tip in it. But as I said carrying exposed LM is super scary because one day you might fumble and drop it.
With my method you can't mess it up, i even applied LM on my CPU today.
@@HenrikHvalpen that's what your other hand Is for as a cup underneath the cotton bud!
I'm still not a fan of that method because it requires a lot of movement. When I applied it I am standing completely still and only focusing on how much coming out of the tip. Then when the right amount has applied I pull back on the piston making sure nothing is coming out. Then I can relax and move around safely.
You won't convince my to do any other methods. I have gone through 3 tubes of liquid metal so I have tried it many times at the moment and I have never had any incidents. And it should stay that way. 😉
@@HenrikHvalpen yes of course!! I was always iffy with how the LM came out of the syringe but yes you described the way to get it out of there!!
I love when clients break their things then come to me but this one, I would not even try to repair it because the amount of work is simply too much. On top of everything, the client doubled the bad behavior and tried to "fix" it himself/herself.
I do not do any second repair attempts.
Pay me respect and bring me something which was not opened for repair before.
I suppose on the plus side, you could use the PCB itself to repair another card (well GPU chip anyway). If someone had massive PCB damage this PCB should still be intact.
thank you its always fun and informative to watch your videos , hope there are much more of them
Have plans to build a rig myself for the first time in 20 years so have been studying up by watching a few well known content creators who know their sh*t, so far I know enough to not mess around with liquid metal, it's conductive and corrosive, it also has a habit of solidifying with time and needs reviving. For the sake of 2° I'll stick with thermal paste, if I ever brain fart and use liquid metal on the most expensive parts of my rig you can be sure I'd let an insured professional do it instead.
Why people nowadays feel they need to liquid metal everything? All the old and safe(r) ways still work very well, folks!
All the 4090 are well cooled, too much, the only reason to put a water block is to get rid of the enormous cooler and do a water cooled system, in top of that liquid metal always is risky because is conductive and corrosive for a tiny small amount of degrees of cooling.
Why do people even need liquid cooling on cards with such good cooling ! Idiocy.
@@1983Konstantin space, or they already have a custom loop and want to integrate it into it. Otherwise it does not make sense as enough ppl in the comments stated.
@@1983Konstantin Yeah it is becoming very unnecessary given the size of these cards, the fans they use are large and quiet.
The space saving advantage does still exist to an extent but it's not like a radiator and all the hoses etc are tiny, it just seems like water cooling in general does not offer quite the same advantages as it once did when graphics cards in particular liked to pretend to be hairdryers.
Same question to all the people deliding cpus that work perfectly fine.
True magic.
Lesson I learned: Never mess with liquid metal.
That's like saying: lesson learned, never drive a car, after an accident.
putting liquid metal on anything is a recipe for disaster so putting it on a us$2000 gpu is like buying a ferrari and sticking tnt to the exhaust
I've accidentally glerped liquid metal on my 6800xt. It went everywhere, but I didn't let it just sit and eat away at the solder. I immediately hit everything with CRC. Also I had clear polish on the caps around the core.
What's CRC? I would like to know in case I ever need to use it in a situation.
@@dp27thelight9 CRC is a brand, he’s probably referring to contact cleaner
@@chincemagnet I normally use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol not sure what the difference is
@@dp27thelight9 CRC QD Electronic Cleaner. Make sure it's the red lettering not the blue.
@@chincemagnet QD Electronic Cleaner actually
"This is very bad" + the cost of the card = a very bad day for the owner. :O( The tangled webs we weave. Thank you for the video. Top Notch effort!
"Very good card, it was a very good card, now it's nothing" 😂😂😂
Wow watching you doing these repairs is mesmerising and satisfying
My 4090 after 6months gave up stopped giving monitor outputs. ( MSI 4090 GAMER X TRIO)
I wonder what caused that lucky it’s still under warranty 🙏
Mo Money, Mo Problems. Use something that is NOT electrically conductive is better on a water cooled GPU, Kryonaut Extreme or KPx are both more than capable of doing the job. As a plus they will not eat the GPU Die or the cooling plate, and as a bonus if they ooze out they will not eat the caps around the GPU Die. I did it once on a CPU and didn't think it was worth it after i saw what it did to to cold plate, it was also a pain to apply.
Very enjoyable vid, such a shame this card was not repairable, I wouldn't ever risk liquid metal, stick to good ol non conductive thermal paste :)
Liquid metal sooner or later means only problems.
In my opinion it is not worth to take such a risk.
Agreed, and the Gigabyte RTX 40 cards have very good temperatures with the stock paste and pads anyway.
it doesnt even give you more headroom anymore either. i put my card on the aquacool gpx block and LM and it didn't give me any more boost bins or headroom than the factory air cooler lol, and that's even with a nearly perfect seat of the die to the cooler because i only have 7-8c difference from gpu temp to gpu hotspot, which i never achieved before. at least it runs nearly 10C cooler, but kingpin kpx paste wouldn't be far behind and is way less dangerous
I've come to this conclusion as well... A few degrees cooler isn't worth it
@@GhostMotley never seen mine above 65.
In my case LM lowered hot spot by 10*C and delta was about 12*C instead of >20*C after furmark. It also allowed my GPU to go 200-300RPM lower on same load with still lower temps, so it depends on person :P
I used LM once with a delidded 4670K. But I did my due diligence in how its done, masked everything, didn't overuse and it worked for several years.
the godfather of cardrepair, great video
You fix GPUs so well makes me wish I was a GPU so that you can fix me 😔
It amazes me, the skill and dedication and knowledge you have about things.
AMAZING video, thank you. I hope right to repair starts gaining more traction!
Some people also dedicate themselves to mapping out how somebody works, where it hurts, and spends a lot of effort untangling the needlessly tangled pipes until a better-working person comes out on the other end.
I think they're unicorns who don't exist though, so I wouldn't hold my breath.
Opens you up... "+12V to +1.8V short... no fix. Someone forgot to foresee a fuse."
@@SianaGearz fried for good, pray for better dad dick rng next time 🤒
Its 2023, its now accepted to identify as anything you wish to be...even a GPU. Flux me harder Zim!
@@jesses1589 Your soldering iron is so hot today ...
The saying goes if it ain’t broke don’t bloody fix it, Definitely not worth liquid metaling 40 series !!! They’ve got beefy coolers with pretty decent temps !!!!!!
Ps this dude is amazing!!!!
Yeah liquid metal is honestly stupid lol. Lets chance destroying my whole pc, for a 1 degree temperature gain.. lol
You're a modern age wizard; You show, and tell... We're very impressed as per usual my good sir :)
Putting liquid metal on electronics is something i will never understand no matter how good cooling medium it is.
I'm sorry, but this customer should be rewarded with some sort of diploma. They did not even try to cover the smd components surrounding the core with nail polish or other insulator, and they used the wrong tip which made way too much liquid metal spray out of the tube. As others have pointed out before me, this is a classic example of more money than wits. Hope they have a hard time recovering financially from this, so that the lesson sticks.
I have exactly that very same card, now running on water in a custom loop together with a 9980XE and VRMs (monoblock) and its just around 60C when stress testing. I am using Kryonaut paste.
Yeah but this guy would have had 58C while stress testing and he would totally one up you.
I find it hard to believe that people use liquid metal so carelessly. And a 4090 with a water block doesn't even really need it.
Yep. Thermal paste keeps the hot spot under 70°C, the normal GPU average temp doesn't even reach 55°C... Why use liquid metal?
I have not done a lot of testing so far.. But my 4090 has never even broken past like 60°C while I was playing Cyberpunk on max everything. That thing is cool and quiet. I don't see any real reason to put a water block on that card unless it's to save space and / or flex.
A 4090 doesn't even need water cooling :-)
@@BenderTheOffender depends on your tolerance for fan noise
@@chincemagnet A decent gaming headset can work wonders 😉
The customer was successful. That card will stay cool forever.
2:28 Because of the simple reason that they would earn more money not to since there is higher risk that it will then be so destroyed that the customer need to buy a new one instead of be able to fix it if it has fuses everywhere.
Finally, Long time no see, lets hope for long live video ☺
19:35
so Gigabyte uses low cheap power stages for the 4090 cards.
hhmmm may not soo bad as a main thing, but maybe it has a crush in 8 years then . . .
Definitely a Boss with this type of work
thats why i didnt bother to use "liquid metal" paste on my 4090, too high risk to fuck up the card
Liquid metal...the gigachad method of destroying your expensive parts.
Just madness to see such damage for like 3% performance gain! 4090 is already quite heat effiencent with air cooling and with water cooling it was much better, i really doubt liquid metal would change temp even 5 degree. They really had no idea what they were doing...
I'm considering water cooling only to save space on the motherboard. Maybe this guy did too. He probably thought, "while I'm here, why not go the extra mile and use the best possible compound"... It's sort of reasonable. I don't think this was done just for a 3% gain, this was more of a "target of opportunity". And then shit happened.
@@TheNefastor Yeah, i understand. For a cheaper card i can also do it for just having the best performance! But doing it on 4090 is a little too far i think or perhaps they are richer than me😁
What kind of tool are you using form removing the liquid metal? Is it some kind of pump?
I had the same question - would like to know
I suspect it is one of the alcohol squirt bottles but empty. He is pressing and then releasing for suction
I saw another guy use a liquid metal syringe, the same one the Conductonaut comes in, to suck it up
just a pipette probably
The reason Gigabyte places a fuse on the 12 volt from the motherboard is to protect the card from idiots who don't know how to correctly power regulate when they overclock, it is also an extra layer of protection which could hopefully save the graphics card should the motherboard get fried by a catastrophic power surge from the ethernet port, it is assumed that the power supply would come with it's own protection so Gigabyte don't protect that side. I like Gigabyte but the build quality of their PCBs are hit and miss, sometimes you get a bad PCB that bends, sometimes you get a good one. Not pleased to see them cheaping out on fuses now, disappointing.
We need a channel that breaks down what the customers did to mess up the card so bad. I've used LM, I'm no expert it's very easy to manage and apply but I cannot imagine how this happened...
He used too much and let it drip on the board, that's how. I can imagine it. Gallium is nasty stuff.
As a pc builder gamer and enthusiast of 30 years i can never underrstand why anyone would use liquid metal, it destroys your pcb - its stupidity, especially when we have advanced thermal pasts solutions now
When you also then factor in how cool these 4000 series cards run there is very little benefit from water cooling at all really or using liquid metal over a decent thermal paste. Some people have more money than sense clearly
The repair is not failed, it's just the cost to repair might be as good as buying a new one.
Could you tell us please what we can do to clean the card/PCB (like a motherboard too) if we get liquid metal/ thermal paste on it by mistake? (what to do in such cases?) if that's something we can do without expensive professional-grade equipment that is. I would love, if you wanted to, make a video on topics like the one I asked too: in terms of what to watch out for/ how to prevent your card from breaking/ being irreparable :D (I am sure you can think of many customer errors that could have been prevented)
15:00 is like turning the RTX back on :D
Eww. the worst part is, it was totally unnecessary to use liquid metal at that point.
But i guess, Deluxe Card, Deluxe Cooler, Deluxe "Paste".
Anyway, luxuary problems that i´ll never have.
Customer should have just used Hydronaut instead of the Conductonaut (or whatever other brand of LM they might have used), and none of this would have happened.
Which brand makes the best cards from an electrical design point of view? (placing fuses, routing tracks where the card is less likely to crack, etc)
It's always different. Most of the time higher priced cards of the same model are better because they have more expensive components and better cooling. For example Asus Stix, MSI Suprim X, or Gigabyte Aorus. But no one can say for sure which one is the best brand every time. Sometimes Gigabyte makes a better card, and sometimes ASUS or MSI. The only way to know is to read articles and watch videos with deep analysis of all cards with disassembling, like Techpowerup, ets
Used to be EVGA, now 🤷🏼 Asus maybe, possibly Zotac if you buy their HOF cards, even MSI and Gigabyte are making good cards now too
@@chincemagnet HOF is Gallax not Zotac. Zotac cards are trash and i would never ever recommend it. Zotac had extremly good cards in the past but the newer generations are function follows design bullshit cards with lots of heat traps. The only other manufacture i would never buy something from is ASRock.
@@iPain3G right, I knew that 😆
Kris, very much interested on your observation on these disconnected pads 12:50 .... as there are many users having issues of crashing with their 4090s ... could this be a wide spread issue.
He wanted to decorate the peacock, and now the peacock is useless.
Always amazed at this level of craftsmanship.
Does anybody have an idea what happened here? Sure, too much LM used like thermal paste, but will this really spill it all over the card? It looks like one would need to drop the cooler from 2m on the card to spill it so hard(?)
Note: watched how to apply it, but no practical experience with LM, that's why I'm asking.
Yeah. Liquid metal seems like too much hassle than the gains you get it out of it.
it's a 2000 usd component , just for the sake of some extra framerates and temps you're willing to go for it , companies makes components after proper testing , and they know that it can fairly withstand stress even on default , after market coolers , i don't understand why people risk it ?
YOu have really a lot of Galium damaged cards in. wondering if people use a low quality liquid or just put to much in, their cards look often soaked in it...wondering how it splashes so far away from the gpu. love your videos, i love watching them
Alternative video title signs that owner has too much money and not enough sense
How did you check that the GPU chip is broken? Maybe just 3 RAMs are bad?
if the ram is bad the gpu definitely is also shorted and even if it does work it'll have errors all through its life not worth the effort
had the exact same question for me it looks like the gpu is not dead only the ram power rail and the 3 memory ic, which you can buy at some distributor so maybe not worth the effort but at 4090 price it seems worth.
The GPU chip is measuring bad. When Vram shorts with 12V everything burns.
Mal wieder ein sehr interessantes Video! Ich habe die Videos schon ein wenig vermisst :( Vielen Dank, dass du dein Wissen weiter mit uns teilst. Bester Mann!!
Classic case of "verschlimmbessern".
The video makes me think twice about ever removing the cooler from the pcb on a graphic card. Seeing the difference between the solder balls is very worrying if that's user error or even faulty soldering at the factory, especially with such an expensive card.
I have replaced paste on many of my video cards and remounting cpu coolers. It is safe to do unless you are not careful with the tools itself by accidently damaging board traces. The liquid metal is whole another story, people should not use that because the risk vb benefit is not worth it on high price cards.
it's really fun to watch, and maybe you can still take one or the other with you. but I wouldn't dare to do it myself, first learn from someone like you who can really do it. good work
Is it possible to comment on the manufacturing quality or reliability of the various graphics card manufacturers. I would like to buy an RTX 4090 and at that price I would not like to get a graphics card again where the soldered connections on the BGAs fail after 2 years.
Next level repairs !
my parents use to tell me before... "dont play with fire" so now Im gonna advice the next generation, dont play with "liquid" metal :)
😂
...But I love playing with Gallium and destroying Aluminium objects!
i think liquid metal has been hyped way too much, i can see it being used on say a laptop like my asus gu502. but a regular pc shouldn't need none if you have a good cooling system in place. its nice to understand the ins and outs of our gpu's on a more detailed level then just watching a review.
the gallium will eat them- wow knowledge on level. You gotto know your stuff in your line of work, for me, your knowledge is impressive.
Customer really should have protected the pcb from liquid metal by inserting thin high temperature foam barrier to top of the green part if GPU substrate, also he/she should have protected the smd components in that GPU substrate using comformal coating. Would have prevented death of the GPU.
13:50 I wonder IF it is a damage from reassemble with the waterblock,
the vram thermal pad thickness is set with thermal paste in mind,
liquid metal is most likely thinner than thermal paste,
too much mounting pressure lifting the outer part of the vram's?
17:45 he is measuring different pins, the arrow marker isnt consistent with each ram chip, is this guy full of it? Can the customer be sure he knows what hes doing? Maybe this card is fine?
Yep, just use paste. Especially with a water block. The card will already be very effectively cooled with regular paste. The few degrees of benefit from doing liquid metal is not worth the risk here. Even if you know what you're doing this is illogical.
It's not in gigabyte's best interest to put in more fuses my guess is they've seen people repairing them. Looks to me like whoever put the block on came in a bit too high and probably dropped it.
Great job... shame for that card 🤔
I feel like I would be 10x more cautious than this person was and even still the thought of using it scares the shit out of me. I would put some kind of coating around the GPU to help acts as a buffer and eliminate the possibility of shorted SMDs on the chip itself. I would also feel 1000x better if I could get some kind of pad (like on the PS5) to trap the LM in one spot. I'm even kind of scared of taking apart a card for a normal liquid cooling setup. I bought mine with the water block pre-installed so I wouldn't have to. I'm also aware that you don't want to use much. The PS5 has FAR more LM than it should if it was a PC. Just a single drop on the die and a single drop on the cooler. Spread it out with the included q-tip like tool. If you see any pooling....it's too much.
Hi. Könntest du mal ein Video machen zum Thema Mods/Mats? Wichtige Befehle oder Einfach Benutzung?
Just so satasfying to watch
I am big fan of yours. Please make video on regular basis.
I wonder if NVidia has shares in the company which makes liquid metal, it's definitely good for repeat business...
Sometimes I jealous to people who buy High-end Stuff but have no ability to use it, Using liquid thermal on 4090 which is basically minuscule improvement>failed>try clean-it with water!
Flüssigmetall zu verwenden als Wärmeleitpaste auf eine extrem teure RTX 4090 war wohl die dümmste Idee des Kunden EVER! 😅
I'm asking myself, what happens to an ultrasonic cleaner and liquid metal residue? When you try to clean such case? Did you ever try that? I use the cleaner on PCBs a lot, but not with Gallium on it. And to be honest, I stay, far away, from liquid metal. Some think they are cooling a car if I see the constructions.
If you're using anything but the cheapest garbage, its stainless steel. Not a problem.
I am happy to see again doing proper love to those poor graphics cards, I have learned a lot from your channel you are master!!!
The customer, like so many others want the best performance for their parts. I'm not different. I've never used liquid metal and I don't think I will. Wow, what a costly mistake.
I have been using liquid metal on all my GPU's and CPU's for a long time. I just delidded my 7700X and put liquid metal on it. No problem and 10-15C temperature drop. The problem is not liquid metal but people who don't know what they are doing.
@@danielfernandes6180 agreed. Us that don't need it should never do it.
I agree, but there is absolute no need for liquid Metall on a 4090, which never gets higher temps than 60 °C at 30%rpm fan even with air cooling depending on your case air flow.
@@firatguven6592
Most people don't need it. True. But people like me who are into overclocking and benchmarking do. Even a 5C drop can increase your overclock. But most users should keep their hands off
I've delidded my last two CPUs and used LM with no issue; you just have to be very careful (and have an experienced user teach you how to do it, if at all possible), properly protect surrounding areas and don't go overboard with it.
It looks like the user who sent Kris this card just tried to use the LM like a traditional thermal paste, used far too much and got it on everything, and then stupidly turned the thing on, frying it.
There's a reason why people will yell at new LM users to "please RTFM", because if they don't, they'll likely destroy whatever they're trying to treat with the LM.