I have a job to do on our heating system, and was debating the benefits between using push-fit or copper pipe, etc. As a result of watching your very informative video, I'll go with the 'soft option' and use push-fits. You've definitely given me some confidence in 21st Century technology! Thank You very much, keep up the good work!
Thanks for the very clear instructions. My main issue is longevity. It is all very well saying the pipes etc are guarantee for 25 years. What happens in 25 years when these plastic and rubber starts to break down and leaks occur. Copper will outlast all the jerry-built house going up these days. My own house is nearly 60 years old. I suspect that these pipes and fittings are simply creating a big problem down the road.
I've used this a lot in the past and it is indeed very good, for plumbing and heating. Although for exposed pipework copper still looks better. One thing you perhaps should have mentioned, is if using chromed copper, rough the pipe up first. Different makes of pipe are all the same OD, but inserts vary in size. I've used various makes of pipe with different fittings with no problem.
I did make a video about that a few years back, I added a link to it at the end of the video- czcams.com/video/L07eN3Ml3NY/video.html Thanks for the comment
Brilliant! I've used this stuff, once for Aqualisa shower and also fir dishwasher. Shower about 12 years ago. Dishwasher 14 years ago, absolutely no issues with either.
It's wonderful stuff! As an emergency DIYer I have done copper pipe before with both compression & pre-soldered joints but this stuff is so much quicker, easier and - for me - more reliable. Just one simple, safe cutting tool and the rest is as easy as Lego. A few years ago we had some work done on the back of the garage which meant I had to re-do the 15mm feed out to our external tap. Absolute doddle once I'd worked out how to use Speedfit and what was actually needed. Unfortunately I forgot to drain it off this year and it burst outside. .. which was when I discovered I'd not put a separate stop-tap in the line and to turn it off I also had to turn off The Washing Machine. Fortunately, I had a short stub of pipe and a Speedfit stop-end, so 5 minutes later I'd put that in and The Boss is happy again. Just need to get a stop-tap in the outside line now and that's it done. No hacksaw, PTFE tape, spanners, blowtorch or swearing required. Simples!
I have a good friend who is a Gas safe engineer. He introduced me to these fittings when installing my new boiler. I would feel a lot more positive about doing some basic plumbing with these now. Thanks for your very very helpful Video.
I love your Lancashire accent and the way you emphasise 'T's (like in SpeedfiT) and 'G's (like in plumbinG) when they're at the ends of words. Just a few miles up the road in Cumbria we just don't do that. Personally I've used both plastic and copper. I can take pride in my copper and soldering work, but much less so with plastic, I feel like I'm cheating.
I also struggle pronouncing words that begin with H LOL I think the next time I do any plumbing at home it is definitely going to be plastic. Thanks for the comment
Can I just point out that the three coloured clips provided with the fitting are for the following reason, the White one is to lock one end as described in the video, the Blue and Red clips are to denote if the pipe is being used for Hot or Cold water, and should be placed at the other end of the fitting. they are not simply for locking the fitting.
Excellent presnetation! Thanks for the video. I was looking for a video describing a small 1/4" (6mm OD) water pipe connection from under-sink to a cooffee maker - the size is different but operation is the same.
Good informative video. Thing I took from this is the 25 year guarantee. As this is now in widespread use, I’d guess those o rings will eventually fail, which long term, means a lot of leaks and replacement costs for the then homeowner.
I've seen end feed fittings and solder ring fittings leak in new build houses that are only ten years old. Fibre washers that connect to most taps and inlet valves often perish and fail, causing leaks. Examples here- czcams.com/video/eqECFK42PKQ/video.html czcams.com/video/XcloESrxbnk/video.html I think for the ease of use and the 25 year guarantee, makes these a much better option for many people. Thanks for the comment ;-)
As usual very informative and useful. You explain things in a simple and easy way to understand. Thank you for your time and helping us to achieve what we otherwise would not know to do.👌
I guessed how to do it then looked up an expert to make sure i did it properly, so many thanks. was curious how to undo them so thanks for that as well
Thanks for this, was advised to get this at b&q for my aquarium plumbing, didn’t tell me about the inserts though so water was leaking out of all the connectors lol Googled it and this video came up, thanks
thank you for showing how to use Push fit, was confused by leaking pipes when using it first time without any tuition, but now feel confident to try again
Good Video. I dislike all the videos where it's all UHHhhh.... or just too Shakey and too wordy with nonsense. Clear and to the point. I just subscribed to ur web site 👍
Thank you very much.. Answered all my questions for a sink I am plumbing in tomorrow from existing copper pipe to the plastic.. I feel confident and ready : )
Good product, just be careful not to keep taking fittings off and on, they tend to leak. Also be careful if you push the pipe through a wall and scratch the end of the pipe, it will leak from the fitting. They recommend, you use the hard no seal insert for compression / conex fittings.
One thing to mention is if you do plan on using a compression fitting on speedfit pipe, use the smaller insert/liner, the big one with the added washer runs the risk of there not being enough pipe for the olive to grasp correctly
Hi Ultimate Handyman, thanks for sharing your videos, I find them to be the best source of knowledge for my work. I need to ask a favour and ask how do you remove the copper pipes once they are fit it to the push fittings? I have a picture to show you what I mean, but not sure if I can share it here. Thanks. Carlos
I know a couple of plumbers that use push fit all the time but they don't use it on friends and family and in there own home. We will see how good it is in time.
I realise this videos a fair few years old but hoping this comments gets noticed. If your were to drill into/cut into a plastic pipe, could you use one of these push fit connectors to repair the pipe or would you need to change a larger section?
Hi those inserts with the rubber o rings are not suitable for use with compression fittings , you need to use the normal inserts. I have had to go to a few leaks with these fitted and replace with the normal insert. Thanks for another great video and enjoy the rest of the easter break.
Thanks Adrian, this has just been pointed out to me by Keven Cook. He said the same as you, but has checked the superseal packet and there is no mention of it on the packet, although it does tell you on their website. I hope you also enjoy the rest of the break ;-) Thanks for the comment
That's interesting, I've used those inserts on compression fittings and never had an issue, will watch out for it in the future and hopefully the ones I've fitted won't start leaking
25 years is not a lot. We use pipe in pipe. We install the sleeve along with the electrician and when the carpenters and painters are finished we pull the inner tube. All the sleeves go to a distribution cabinet and there will never be any damaging leaks behind the plasterboards
What!.... Wait!..... A locking mechanism...... A friggin' locking mechanism!! Sweet merciful crap!... I recently finished a bathroom overall, including new floor, sub floor and tiled floor... I wish I new about this..... Lol. Oh well, I guess I'll deal with the wet kitchen ceiling when it happens...True what they say. You never stop learning... ;)... Thanks for the videos. Great quality as usual....
All pipes have the same OD so you can use any push fit fitting on any pipe as long as you use the correct pipe insert for the make of pipe your using......👍 cheers chaz
You can, it's more of a question if you should. Each manufacture make their components to slightly different tolerances. A common fault path for PEX fittings is to weep slowly rather than leak in a manner you can see instantly.
Not true - as my son found out when he moved into his new house. Pushfit everywhere but the previous owners hadn't bothered matching up when they had a refurb & put in a downstairs loo. I've got a box full of unknown make plastic pushfit fittings which were, mostly, weeping. I ripped out the lot, nipped down to toolstation & bought replacements. The loo has been bone dry ever since.
In modern houses, the pipework is all under the chipboard and buried in the walls, so completely replacing the pipework is a huge job. My house is 21 years old and is all copper piping with solder joints and is in good condition - if it was PEX, I'd be worried that it was nearing the end of it's life. 25 years is not long enough.
Great video and thanks for the demo, I would prefer to use the plumber's grease (US) or any FDA-approved silicone lube on any surface touching the rubber O-rings, it is just good practice.
@@ruinunes8251 Not sure, I'd just use an approved lubricant 👍 (Sorry for the late reply, CZcams comments has been playing up AGAIN, So I have just seen this)
You can interchange and use jg on hep and vice versa, the only thing I've ever found issues with is the inserts, jg inserts won't fit in some pb pipe etc but as for fittings they're all good no matter what the pipe It's a manufacturer thing as obviously hep and jg would prefer you to buy their fittings with their pipe 👌
Absolutely, they are going to say that you should use their products- but if there is an issue they will be quick to point the finger. Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman true that, I mostly use copper, only time I'll use plastic is if I turn up to a job and it's all in plastic, other than that I believe that copper and solder is unbeatable 👌 Happy Easter pal
Thanks- I used to be a massive copper fan but just lately I'm favouring plastic. A few weeks back when it was cold a mate of mine had a burst copper pipe in his garage (his boiler is in there), he called 5 plumbers and none could get there for a couple of days, so I went and cut out the damaged section for him and used two JG speedfit couplings and plastic pipe. A few hours later he called back and there was another leak- the compression fittings had been pushed completely off the end of the copper pipe and once the pipes thawed water was flowing out at mains pressure. I've tested copper pipe with compression fittings in the freezer and the fittings get pushed off with the expansion of the ice, but if you use plastic pipe and push fit fittings it just expands and then contracts again when thawed. A few of my mates are plumbers and they almost exclusively use plastic now as it is so much easier. I've always used copper in the past, but next time I do some plumbing at home I think I'm going to use plastic. Happy Easter and thanks for the comments ;-)
Informative demonstration. I like the idea of plastic pipe because it is not subject to corrosion and doesn't give off minerals into the water. However, I know if I use copper it will last for centuries, but the plastic pipe manufacturer you cite gives a 25-year guarantee. Does this suggest that the platic pipe and its fittings may not last for centuries? BTW, I recently used plastic pipe under my kitchen sink for a drinking water tap - wow! So easy, so clean and easy to put it exactly where I want it unlike the old metal-braided tubes that were there before.
There are pro's and con's for plastic and copper pipe, but for me plastic is the better option. I keep meaning to make a video about the difference between the two- but I started that about 3 years ago LOL Not sure how long plastic pipe will last to be honest, but I have seen copper pipe get pin holes in it- or split. Thanks for the comment
I have to say whilst I'll use plastic and push fits around the house I steer clear of using push fits with copper pipe. I've recently done some plumbing around the house and found all the push fits with copper inserted into them were weeping.
I wonder if whoever installed the fittings had de-burred them correctly? I've read a few things online about fittings weeping or failing and often wonder if it is because they have not been assembled correctly. A few of my plumber mates use them all the time and never have any problems, or else they would stop using them. Thanks for the comment
Honestly mate, never ever had push fits leak on copper tube, ever. Pipeslice cuts give a tapered end, so it should`nt damage the `o` ring, measure a little mark on the pipe, to see it`s pushed fully home, I use a twisting motion rather than a straight push, then you don`t jab at the `o` ring as it passes through. Twist lock the collars if it`s JG speedfit and that`s it.
Plastic pipe is here to stay whether you like it or not. I know a few plumbers that use it as the pipe of choice for new installs. It’s a beautiful day here in Darwen today. I hope everyone has a great Easter break ;-)
Ultimate Handyman evening, I have had radiators installed throughout my house. My plumber has removed approximately half a metre of old copper on each radiator and fitted plastic pipe instead. My chrome pipe that comes through the floor board is connected to the plastic pipe. Is this safe? Should I tell him that copper is better and that he should remove the plastic?
Here is a quotation from the John Guest website: "How do I know which Insert Type I need for Each Project?
While both types of pipe insert are suitable for hot and cold-water systems as well as underfloor heating and central heating, when using Speedfit pipe and fittings, a plain insert should always be used when plastic pipe is installed with a compression fitting. Compression fittings vary in terms of depth and in some cases, using a superseal may stop the pipe from going fully into the fitting to ensure the compression ring is sitting on the pipe, and not on the insert. Always check that the compression fitting is suitable for use with plastic pipework and follow the instructions."
Bit late to the party on this one. Great video though. Anyone know if the collets are absolutely necessary? Will the joints undo overtime without them? 🤔
Just watched a skill builder program on plstic pipe ,and the manufactuerers say you can use any fittings as long as they are british standers fittings.
Just copied this from the Hep20 site- We cannot guarantee that all push-fit plumbing brands are made to the same standards for the internal diameter, so we cannot say that Hep2O fittings are compatible with JG Speedfit pipework. We always recommend that you to use Hep2O push-fit plumbing pipe with Hep2O fittings 😉
Brass compression fittings are cheaper than plastic which is why i use them on plastic pipe most of the time. Also they are less likely to decouple or leak
Thanks, a few people have mentioned this now. You would think with something so critical that it would be printed on the packet in large red writing! Thanks for the comment ;-)
Ultimate Handyman I just checked the JG website to see if they had changed their MI's on them, they state that the superseal are not to be used with compression fittings. Hope that helps.
Thanks, I'm going to check the packet when I get into the garage as something like this is really important. I only bought all the fittings a few weeks back, so you would expect it to be on the packet as nobody reads the instructions on the packet and then checks the website. Thanks for going to the trouble to check ;-)
Thank you so much - you made this look incredible easy! I'm currently fitting my own utility and have had so many questions regarding the plumbing for my sink. Is it also safe to use a speedfit elbow push fit fittings with copper pipes?
I'm about to plumb in a central heating system. Would you use 15mm pipe or 22mm pipe? Obviously this is after and before it goes to the boiler as that will have to be 22mm
22mm from the boiler (first metre needs to be copper), then 15mm will be fine. I'm glad you are not using 10mm, as that stuff is garbage! Thanks for the comment 👍
i have used it for the whole heating radiators in my house, i have 3 floors and 5 heating radiators. we have a district heating system in the netherlands with water flowing of 80/90 degrees, and about 3 to 4 bar. i must say in the first installation some connection leaked.. but after i checked again i saw that the tube was cutted crooked. i cut it straigt again and the leaking was gone. i used it one winter period without any leakings so far, but i am just curious if it will be fine next year? can i trust the John Guest Speedfit system? and for how long will it last? because the connections are made in the wall. does it reach a lifespan of 30years? are the O-Rings made from special material that will last?? it's a very nice system, but i dont know how for i can trust the installation, if anyone can clarify this for me i would be relieved :)
A teensy question about the Scotch Bright pad you used. Is that a specialist plumbers piece of kit available from Plumbers merchants or is it just an ordinary pan-scrubber available from the cleaning isle of any supermarket. Usually they are green in colour but I noticed yours was a brownish colour. Talking about the Scotch. Did you know that Scots people all come from Scotch eggs! Not many people know that.
I get mine from ebay- fave.co/2GpLNdG It is the same stuff that you get on kitchen pan scrubbers. It's better then steel wool as the steel fibres can contaminate the pipe/fittings. I didn't know Scots people came from Scotch eggs- you learn something new every day ;-)
I was wondering if anyone knows whether you need to use an insert when connecting onto a JG stem fitting such as a 135 degree elbow? One packet I brought didn't come with the insert and a different packet did.
I think you do need an insert, the picture on this page shows a stem fitting, with the insert in- www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-plastic-push-fit-equal-135-stem-elbow-15mm/23549
Yes. These can be connected to copper pipe and can be used for domestic hot water and heating. I'm not sure about the maximum temp and can't check as I'm answering this on my mobile. You can't use plastic pipe for the first metre of pipe running from the boiler, copper has to be used for that.
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks again! Really appreciate you taking the time to review and reply to questions. I already did some pipe bending "practice" and following your guidance video, I was successful. Keep up the great work.
Up to 25 years life expectancy for house plumbing is not good enough, this means that house insurers will demand certification of pipe work renewal to save from house flooding. Doesn't sound good to me, especially when you consider that your entire house is subject to the degradation process of small rubber "O" rings.
Another helpful video. I'm about to refit a bathroom, a few people are telling me to get a professional in to do it to be safe but I've seen many of your videos and other peoples video's aswell and it doesn't seem too hard. I just plan on re routing a few pipes for a new shower cubicle and different bath position. Any advice on how to best avoid leaks? Also from your experience is there a particular time the pipes should be tested for leaks? My main worry is pipes leaking after weeks or months after flooring has been laid down.
I've done a few bathrooms and never had any problems. It's best if you can avoid having any joints below the floor, so that even in the event of a leaking joint you do not have to lift the tiles to get to it. Baths are good, because you can often make any joints above floor level as they will be hidden by the bath panel etc. I'd pipe everything up and check it before tiling, either using a pressure testing rig or by piping it up to the mains water and opening the stop tap slowly. If the joints don't leak straight away it is unlikely that they will leak a few weeks/months down the line.
Measuring and planning wins the day Dan. Mark it all out on the floor, sort your pipework out to its final points, ie bath, basin, toilet. Then you fit isolation valves. So say for instance where the bath taps go, you fit isolation valves about 300mm below where the taps will finish. Then you fill the system and open the valves til the water comes through. Shut them closed and then check all your plumbing for leaks, and that`s the main worry over. Use flexible tap hoses to put the bath away, these seldom leak, and you can do the tap end whilst the baths in free air anyway. Always do a bucket test on the waste traps, and around shower tray seal, before any flooring goes down or closing the shower tray in forever. There`s loads of help on CZcams, look in Screwfix catalogue for products out there which make it much less painful than it used to be. They even make copper push fit now, so you got more chance of the shower tray or bath seals leaking than any plumbing! Personally I only use Dow Corning sealants. Good Luck with it.
It depends on the make. Some push fit can accommodate a pipe that is out, but to be honest, It’s probably best to redo it, to prevent future problems 👍
You can only use the inserts that are compatible with the pipe that you are using. For example John guest inserts have to be used on John guest pipe and Hep2O inserts have to be used on Hep20 pipe.
Hi mate can i put a lever isolation tap onto plastic pipe iv got a cold feed goin to my shower i was gonna cut it an put the tap in for isolation reasons
I spent over 20 years as an alarm engineer and I hated this 'Speed Fit' crap. The pipes can not be detected with an electronic pipe locator but buy poking a long drill bit in to hole I made in a stud wall, I could wiggle the drill bit and feel or hear the bit tapping against copper pipes... But not PVC pipes. I sometimes asked the customers to turn the central heating up full blast the morning I was due to install an alarm in their house. Electronic pipe locators don't work with PVC pipes but my hands could feel the hot spots on the walls. Some customers would moan about the heat, but would they prefer a nice neat job - or a flooded house? If only I could afford to buy a thermal imaging camera!
Who said anything about 'blasting' through a stud wall? I used to make a small hole in a stud wall to a depth of 12mm or a small bit extra, then poke in a wire from a coat hanger. Used that wire to find pipes and cables. Have never drilled a hole through a pipe in the 20 years of installations but I did drill through a cable once and it blew the end off my drill bit.. :)
@@banjax66 thermal image camera's have come down in price. There not even in the £1000+ range eny more.. The other prob with speed fit is support. You need a brkt every two feet. They do this for compressed air as well and we won't use it or recommend it. Customers will fit this stuff themselves and then wonder why it looks like crap. A brkt every 1 or 2 mtrs and the pipe in between bends..
I am shocked that the scotchbrite leaves a fine enough finish not to damage and abrade the O ring. I'd feel compelled to follow that with some kind of burnishing or a 400 then 600 grit paper.
True, but surely the reason for selecting chrome for a given location is for the aesthetic appearance, so you really would`nt be shoving a white pushfit on the end of it! Even chrome compression would look better.
Yes, but the manufacturers don’t recommend it 😉 Wait till a fitting blows off, your insurance company will soon find out that the manufacturers do not recommend using their fittings on competitors pipes and vice versa!
I’ve had push fit on my copper pipe under the sink for 23 years & never had a problem 👍🏽
I have a job to do on our heating system, and was debating the benefits between using push-fit or copper pipe, etc. As a result of watching your very informative video, I'll go with the 'soft option' and use push-fits. You've definitely given me some confidence in 21st Century technology! Thank You very much, keep up the good work!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the very clear instructions. My main issue is longevity. It is all very well saying the pipes etc are guarantee for 25 years. What happens in 25 years when these plastic and rubber starts to break down and leaks occur. Copper will outlast all the jerry-built house going up these days. My own house is nearly 60 years old. I suspect that these pipes and fittings are simply creating a big problem down the road.
Yes, I think if I was installing pipework in my own house I would use copper pipe and solder ring fittings.
Thanks for the comment
I've used this a lot in the past and it is indeed very good, for plumbing and heating.
Although for exposed pipework copper still looks better.
One thing you perhaps should have mentioned, is if using chromed copper, rough the pipe up first.
Different makes of pipe are all the same OD, but inserts vary in size. I've used various makes of pipe with different fittings with no problem.
I did make a video about that a few years back, I added a link to it at the end of the video- czcams.com/video/L07eN3Ml3NY/video.html
Thanks for the comment
Brilliant! I've used this stuff, once for Aqualisa shower and also fir dishwasher. Shower about 12 years ago. Dishwasher 14 years ago, absolutely no issues with either.
Thanks for the comment.
im moving a rad in the bedroom, and your very informative video has convinced me to use push fit over copper.
thanks
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman that kind of connection is right for heating system?
@@Damian-wc2gy Yes, push fit fittings are fine for use on a heating system
It's wonderful stuff! As an emergency DIYer I have done copper pipe before with both compression & pre-soldered joints but this stuff is so much quicker, easier and - for me - more reliable. Just one simple, safe cutting tool and the rest is as easy as Lego.
A few years ago we had some work done on the back of the garage which meant I had to re-do the 15mm feed out to our external tap. Absolute doddle once I'd worked out how to use Speedfit and what was actually needed. Unfortunately I forgot to drain it off this year and it burst outside. .. which was when I discovered I'd not put a separate stop-tap in the line and to turn it off I also had to turn off The Washing Machine. Fortunately, I had a short stub of pipe and a Speedfit stop-end, so 5 minutes later I'd put that in and The Boss is happy again.
Just need to get a stop-tap in the outside line now and that's it done. No hacksaw, PTFE tape, spanners, blowtorch or swearing required. Simples!
👍
I have a good friend who is a Gas safe engineer. He introduced me to these fittings when installing my new boiler. I would feel a lot more positive about doing some basic plumbing with these now. Thanks for your very very helpful Video.
Thanks for the comment
I love your Lancashire accent and the way you emphasise 'T's (like in SpeedfiT) and 'G's (like in plumbinG) when they're at the ends of words. Just a few miles up the road in Cumbria we just don't do that. Personally I've used both plastic and copper. I can take pride in my copper and soldering work, but much less so with plastic, I feel like I'm cheating.
I also struggle pronouncing words that begin with H LOL
I think the next time I do any plumbing at home it is definitely going to be plastic.
Thanks for the comment
Can I just point out that the three coloured clips provided with the fitting are for the following reason, the White one is to lock one end as described in the video, the Blue and Red clips are to denote if the pipe is being used for Hot or Cold water, and should be placed at the other end of the fitting. they are not simply for locking the fitting.
Excellent presnetation! Thanks for the video. I was looking for a video describing a small 1/4" (6mm OD) water pipe connection from under-sink to a cooffee maker - the size is different but operation is the same.
Glad it was helpful!
You can get 6mm push fit, they are widely used for pneumatics, but some are also suitable for water- fave.co/3w2P6OH
Good informative video. Thing I took from this is the 25 year guarantee. As this is now in widespread use, I’d guess those o rings will eventually fail, which long term, means a lot of leaks and replacement costs for the then homeowner.
I've seen end feed fittings and solder ring fittings leak in new build houses that are only ten years old. Fibre washers that connect to most taps and inlet valves often perish and fail, causing leaks.
Examples here-
czcams.com/video/eqECFK42PKQ/video.html
czcams.com/video/XcloESrxbnk/video.html
I think for the ease of use and the 25 year guarantee, makes these a much better option for many people.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
As usual very informative and useful. You explain things in a simple and easy way to understand. Thank you for your time and helping us to achieve what we otherwise would not know to do.👌
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman I always look for your vids first as such a friendly, trusted source of knowledge - Thank you too for your unwaivering enthusiasm
I guessed how to do it then looked up an expert to make sure i did it properly, so many thanks. was curious how to undo them so thanks for that as well
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice demo man, think I’m a plumber now, cheers.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for this, was advised to get this at b&q for my aquarium plumbing, didn’t tell me about the inserts though so water was leaking out of all the connectors lol Googled it and this video came up, thanks
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
thank you for showing how to use Push fit, was confused by leaking pipes when using it first time without any tuition, but now feel confident to try again
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Definitely a man who knows children and their tendency to pull stuff to bits
👍
Excellent video fully explaining "Speedfit" connections to plastic and copper.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good Video. I dislike all the videos where it's all UHHhhh.... or just too Shakey and too wordy with nonsense. Clear and to the point. I just subscribed to ur web site 👍
Thanks 👍
Thank you very much.. Answered all my questions for a sink I am plumbing in tomorrow from existing copper pipe to the plastic..
I feel confident and ready : )
Glad I could help
Thanks for the comment
I've found it's useful to use some pipe lubricant when inserting pipe into plastic fittings.
Good product, just be careful not to keep taking fittings off and on, they tend to leak. Also be careful if you push the pipe through a wall and scratch the end of the pipe, it will leak from the fitting. They recommend, you use the hard no seal insert for compression / conex fittings.
Thanks for the comment
One thing to mention is if you do plan on using a compression fitting on speedfit pipe, use the smaller insert/liner, the big one with the added washer runs the risk of there not being enough pipe for the olive to grasp correctly
👍
Hi Ultimate Handyman, thanks for sharing your videos, I find them to be the best source of knowledge for my work. I need to ask a favour and ask how do you remove the copper pipes once they are fit it to the push fittings? I have a picture to show you what I mean, but not sure if I can share it here. Thanks. Carlos
I know a couple of plumbers that use push fit all the time but they don't use it on friends and family and in there own home. We will see how good it is in time.
Time will tell 👍
Great video, very informative i was quite impressed with the attension to detail demanstrated throughout duratation of video.
Thanks for the comment
I realise this videos a fair few years old but hoping this comments gets noticed. If your were to drill into/cut into a plastic pipe, could you use one of these push fit connectors to repair the pipe or would you need to change a larger section?
Hi those inserts with the rubber o rings are not suitable for use with compression fittings , you need to use the normal inserts. I have had to go to a few leaks with these fitted and replace with the normal insert. Thanks for another great video and enjoy the rest of the easter break.
Thanks Adrian, this has just been pointed out to me by Keven Cook. He said the same as you, but has checked the superseal packet and there is no mention of it on the packet, although it does tell you on their website.
I hope you also enjoy the rest of the break ;-)
Thanks for the comment
That's interesting, I've used those inserts on compression fittings and never had an issue, will watch out for it in the future and hopefully the ones I've fitted won't start leaking
Tomtom1989 kl,
Just what I was looking for! Clear, concise and easy to follow. Cheers!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the comment 👍
25 years is not a lot. We use pipe in pipe. We install the sleeve along with the electrician and when the carpenters and painters are finished we pull the inner tube. All the sleeves go to a distribution cabinet and there will never be any damaging leaks behind the plasterboards
Thanks for the comment
Your instruction videos are informative and enjoyable.
Glad you like them!
Thanks for the comment
What!.... Wait!..... A locking mechanism...... A friggin' locking mechanism!!
Sweet merciful crap!... I recently finished a bathroom overall, including new floor, sub floor and tiled floor... I wish I new about this..... Lol.
Oh well, I guess I'll deal with the wet kitchen ceiling when it happens...True what they say. You never stop learning... ;)...
Thanks for the videos. Great quality as usual....
Thanks for the comment, I hope your plumbing will be ok ;-)
Top class video. This guy talks you through step by step.
Thanks for the comment
All pipes have the same OD so you can use any push fit fitting on any pipe as long as you use the correct pipe insert for the make of pipe your using......👍
cheers chaz
yensabi Li
You can, it's more of a question if you should. Each manufacture make their components to slightly different tolerances. A common fault path for PEX fittings is to weep slowly rather than leak in a manner you can see instantly.
Not true - as my son found out when he moved into his new house. Pushfit everywhere but the previous owners hadn't bothered matching up when they had a refurb & put in a downstairs loo. I've got a box full of unknown make plastic pushfit fittings which were, mostly, weeping. I ripped out the lot, nipped down to toolstation & bought replacements. The loo has been bone dry ever since.
nice video im tackling a bathroom suite for the first time and i think this is the way to go
They are very easy to use ;-)
Good luck with the bathroom
Thanks for the comment 👍
In modern houses, the pipework is all under the chipboard and buried in the walls, so completely replacing the pipework is a huge job. My house is 21 years old and is all copper piping with solder joints and is in good condition - if it was PEX, I'd be worried that it was nearing the end of it's life. 25 years is not long enough.
25 years is just the guarantee, the pipe should last much longer
Thanks for the comment
Great video and thanks for the demo, I would prefer to use the plumber's grease (US) or any FDA-approved silicone lube on any surface touching the rubber O-rings, it is just good practice.
👍
Would vegetable grease do the trick as well?
@@ruinunes8251 Not sure, I'd just use an approved lubricant 👍
(Sorry for the late reply, CZcams comments has been playing up AGAIN, So I have just seen this)
You can interchange and use jg on hep and vice versa, the only thing I've ever found issues with is the inserts, jg inserts won't fit in some pb pipe etc but as for fittings they're all good no matter what the pipe
It's a manufacturer thing as obviously hep and jg would prefer you to buy their fittings with their pipe 👌
Absolutely, they are going to say that you should use their products- but if there is an issue they will be quick to point the finger.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman true that, I mostly use copper, only time I'll use plastic is if I turn up to a job and it's all in plastic, other than that I believe that copper and solder is unbeatable 👌
Happy Easter pal
Thanks- I used to be a massive copper fan but just lately I'm favouring plastic.
A few weeks back when it was cold a mate of mine had a burst copper pipe in his garage (his boiler is in there), he called 5 plumbers and none could get there for a couple of days, so I went and cut out the damaged section for him and used two JG speedfit couplings and plastic pipe. A few hours later he called back and there was another leak- the compression fittings had been pushed completely off the end of the copper pipe and once the pipes thawed water was flowing out at mains pressure.
I've tested copper pipe with compression fittings in the freezer and the fittings get pushed off with the expansion of the ice, but if you use plastic pipe and push fit fittings it just expands and then contracts again when thawed.
A few of my mates are plumbers and they almost exclusively use plastic now as it is so much easier.
I've always used copper in the past, but next time I do some plumbing at home I think I'm going to use plastic.
Happy Easter and thanks for the comments ;-)
Informative demonstration. I like the idea of plastic pipe because it is not subject to corrosion and doesn't give off minerals into the water. However, I know if I use copper it will last for centuries, but the plastic pipe manufacturer you cite gives a 25-year guarantee. Does this suggest that the platic pipe and its fittings may not last for centuries? BTW, I recently used plastic pipe under my kitchen sink for a drinking water tap - wow! So easy, so clean and easy to put it exactly where I want it unlike the old metal-braided tubes that were there before.
There are pro's and con's for plastic and copper pipe, but for me plastic is the better option. I keep meaning to make a video about the difference between the two- but I started that about 3 years ago LOL
Not sure how long plastic pipe will last to be honest, but I have seen copper pipe get pin holes in it- or split.
Thanks for the comment
I have to say whilst I'll use plastic and push fits around the house I steer clear of using push fits with copper pipe. I've recently done some plumbing around the house and found all the push fits with copper inserted into them were weeping.
I wonder if whoever installed the fittings had de-burred them correctly?
I've read a few things online about fittings weeping or failing and often wonder if it is because they have not been assembled correctly. A few of my plumber mates use them all the time and never have any problems, or else they would stop using them.
Thanks for the comment
Honestly mate, never ever had push fits leak on copper tube, ever.
Pipeslice cuts give a tapered end, so it should`nt damage the `o` ring, measure a little mark on the pipe, to see it`s pushed fully home, I use a twisting motion rather than a straight push, then you don`t jab at the `o` ring as it passes through. Twist lock the collars if it`s JG speedfit and that`s it.
Plastic pipe is here to stay whether you like it or not. I know a few plumbers that use it as the pipe of choice for new installs.
It’s a beautiful day here in Darwen today. I hope everyone has a great Easter break ;-)
Ultimate Handyman cheers mate! You too. :)
Thanks Adam ;-)
It’s Darwen, it’s always beautiful
Was gonna say I can hear Blackburn in that accent...I was close
Ultimate Handyman evening, I have had radiators installed throughout my house. My plumber has removed approximately half a metre of old copper on each radiator and fitted plastic pipe instead. My chrome pipe that comes through the floor board is connected to the plastic pipe. Is this safe? Should I tell him that copper is better and that he should remove the plastic?
I have read somewhere that JG also recommend when using compression fittings, to use a copper olive rather than the now more common brass olives.
That could be true. I always recommend copper olives as the brass ones are too hard.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks mate. I once made a mistake to use a pipe wrench for extra force but that messed it up...
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
happy Easter to all your viewers and thank you for another interesting video
Thank you and happy Easter;-)
Thanks alot, i was having trouble with 2 pipes that look the same size but theyre not. This will fix the problem.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Here is a quotation from the John Guest website:
"How do I know which Insert Type I need for Each Project?
While both types of pipe insert are suitable for hot and cold-water systems as well as underfloor heating and central heating, when using Speedfit pipe and fittings, a plain insert should always be used when plastic pipe is installed with a compression fitting.
Compression fittings vary in terms of depth and in some cases, using a superseal may stop the pipe from going fully into the fitting to ensure the compression ring is sitting on the pipe, and not on the insert.
Always check that the compression fitting is suitable for use with plastic pipework and follow the instructions."
👍
Bit late to the party on this one. Great video though. Anyone know if the collets are absolutely necessary? Will the joints undo overtime without them? 🤔
It will be fine without the collet clips 👍
Cool vid for the layperson. Thanks
No problem 👍
Just watched a skill builder program on plstic pipe ,and the manufactuerers say you can use any fittings as long as they are british standers fittings.
Just copied this from the Hep20 site-
We cannot guarantee that all push-fit plumbing brands are made to the same standards for the internal diameter, so we cannot say that Hep2O fittings are compatible with JG Speedfit pipework. We always recommend that you to use Hep2O push-fit plumbing pipe with Hep2O fittings 😉
Brass compression fittings are cheaper than plastic which is why i use them on plastic pipe most of the time. Also they are less likely to decouple or leak
👍
Thanks for the video. Is it ok to use plastic joints behind plasterboard walls?
It’s best not to put joints behind walls, but sometimes there is no alternative!
Another Brilliant instructional video, keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
The superseal inserts can't be used with compression fittings you need to use the inserts that are o-ring free (clear shank).
Keep up the videos👍👍👍
Thanks, a few people have mentioned this now.
You would think with something so critical that it would be printed on the packet in large red writing!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Ultimate Handyman
I just checked the JG website to see if they had changed their MI's on them, they state that the superseal are not to be used with compression fittings. Hope that helps.
Thanks, I'm going to check the packet when I get into the garage as something like this is really important. I only bought all the fittings a few weeks back, so you would expect it to be on the packet as nobody reads the instructions on the packet and then checks the website.
Thanks for going to the trouble to check ;-)
I just checked my packet and it does say on the front only to be used with JG pipe and JG fittings.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
Ultimate Handyman
You're welcome. Keep up the great videos 👍 👍👍
Thanks a lot, great presentation, very helpful and informative
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Happy Easter - thanks for posting. Used more Hep2o than Speedfit but both have come on a lot over the years. Regards Mike
Thanks Mike, one of my mates uses mainly Hep2o but another mate uses mainly Speedfit.
Happy Easter, thanks for the comment
very professional video . well done sir . i have def learned how to do job properly many thanks
Thanks for the comment
Thank you so much - you made this look incredible easy! I'm currently fitting my own utility and have had so many questions regarding the plumbing for my sink.
Is it also safe to use a speedfit elbow push fit fittings with copper pipes?
You are welcome.
Speedfit is fine with copper pipe ;-)
A great help, very clear and straight forward. Thank you.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi. Do you know if the JG Speedfit pipe inserts can be used with any plastic pipe or JG Speedfit pipe only? Thanks
Thanks for the info, I am glad that you said it is idiot proof because I definitely fit into that category.
You are welcome John, I'm sure you don't fit into that category at all!
Thanks for the comment
Brilliant video and taught really well 5 Star from me thank you for sharing your experience with us
Glad it was helpful!
Sorry I'm old school. I use copper. Been a plumber for 46 years...
Copper is fine ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Nice one Barry, overall I got to agree......
copper in my country gets stolen every one is putting pex on the out side and copper inside
Time to move on?
Anyone who only uses plastic pipe can never call themselves a 'plumber'. Great vid as always, many thanks.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Can someone who has never put a thread on a steel pipe using a die call himself a plumber?
And on and on...
Great vid UHM as usual. 👍
Thanks Graham ;-)
Or are you not a roofer if you only use tiles and not thatch. We move with technology.
what a rubbish comment, suppose you are still using vc pipes for your drainage.
Advert for John Guest PEX piping. Copper is still best.
25 year guarantee! Manufacturer and plumber will be long gone by then.
Plastic pipe is here to stay 😉
Thanks for the comment
Would the red and blue collars not be to indicate the water going through the pipes, i.e blue for cold and red for hot.
Yes, but don't trust them, as someone might just use what they have available.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I'm about to plumb in a central heating system. Would you use 15mm pipe or 22mm pipe? Obviously this is after and before it goes to the boiler as that will have to be 22mm
22mm from the boiler (first metre needs to be copper), then 15mm will be fine.
I'm glad you are not using 10mm, as that stuff is garbage!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Awesome instruction . No bullshit
i have used it for the whole heating radiators in my house, i have 3 floors and 5 heating radiators.
we have a district heating system in the netherlands with water flowing of 80/90 degrees, and about 3 to 4 bar.
i must say in the first installation some connection leaked.. but after i checked again i saw that the tube was cutted crooked. i cut it straigt again and the leaking was gone.
i used it one winter period without any leakings so far, but i am just curious if it will be fine next year?
can i trust the John Guest Speedfit system? and for how long will it last? because the connections are made in the wall. does it reach a lifespan of 30years?
are the O-Rings made from special material that will last??
it's a very nice system, but i dont know how for i can trust the installation, if anyone can clarify this for me i would be relieved :)
👍
A teensy question about the Scotch Bright pad you used. Is that a specialist plumbers piece of kit available from Plumbers merchants or is it just an ordinary pan-scrubber available from the cleaning isle of any supermarket. Usually they are green in colour but I noticed yours was a brownish colour.
Talking about the Scotch. Did you know that Scots people all come from Scotch eggs! Not many people know that.
I get mine from ebay- fave.co/2GpLNdG
It is the same stuff that you get on kitchen pan scrubbers. It's better then steel wool as the steel fibres can contaminate the pipe/fittings.
I didn't know Scots people came from Scotch eggs- you learn something new every day ;-)
Vida Butcher v=**
I was wondering if anyone knows whether you need to use an insert when connecting onto a JG stem fitting such as a 135 degree elbow? One packet I brought didn't come with the insert and a different packet did.
I think you do need an insert, the picture on this page shows a stem fitting, with the insert in-
www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-plastic-push-fit-equal-135-stem-elbow-15mm/23549
Thanks for this useful information about push tight pipes 👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
CPVC is discontinued here in Canada, PEX is the way. The crimp on stuff is junk (Pex B) , compression fittings (PEX A) is best
Thanks for the info ;-)
Not one says “burr” quite like Lancashire folk
Lol. Thanks for the comment
very true.
...or 'ammer🤣
Spot on
Spot on as usual .
Thanks for the comment 👍
Can these be used on hot-water lines, or connected to boiler copper pipe lines. What type of heat can these pipes and speed-fit fittings withstand.
Yes. These can be connected to copper pipe and can be used for domestic hot water and heating. I'm not sure about the maximum temp and can't check as I'm answering this on my mobile. You can't use plastic pipe for the first metre of pipe running from the boiler, copper has to be used for that.
Sure I read 105°C on the specs earlier.
Great informative video. Thank you. Is it ok to use these fittings under the floorboards, teeing off copper, and chase the pipe into the wall?
Yes, just make sure there are no joints in the wall, you can also get some protective conduit for pipes in walls.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks again! Really appreciate you taking the time to review and reply to questions. I already did some pipe bending "practice" and following your guidance video, I was successful. Keep up the great work.
Up to 25 years life expectancy for house plumbing is not good enough, this means that house insurers will demand certification of pipe work renewal to save from house flooding. Doesn't sound good to me, especially when you consider that your entire house is subject to the degradation process of small rubber "O" rings.
25 year guarantee, the pipe and fittings are expected to last 50 years.
Thanks for the comment
I wonder if they have this stuff here in Australia to relocate my front garden tap ?
Not sure if you have speedfit over there, but I'm sure you will have a version of PEX barrier pipe and fittings.
Thanks for the comment
Can you use the cutter you use to cut the copper pipe to also cut the plastic pipe as well?
Some of them will cut plastic pipe- but the one that I tried did a really bad (and slow) job of it.
A dedicated plastic pipe cutter is best 👍
@@ultimatehandymanThanks, that confirms what I thought.
Another helpful video. I'm about to refit a bathroom, a few people are telling me to get a professional in to do it to be safe but I've seen many of your videos and other peoples video's aswell and it doesn't seem too hard.
I just plan on re routing a few pipes for a new shower cubicle and different bath position.
Any advice on how to best avoid leaks? Also from your experience is there a particular time the pipes should be tested for leaks?
My main worry is pipes leaking after weeks or months after flooring has been laid down.
I've done a few bathrooms and never had any problems. It's best if you can avoid having any joints below the floor, so that even in the event of a leaking joint you do not have to lift the tiles to get to it.
Baths are good, because you can often make any joints above floor level as they will be hidden by the bath panel etc.
I'd pipe everything up and check it before tiling, either using a pressure testing rig or by piping it up to the mains water and opening the stop tap slowly.
If the joints don't leak straight away it is unlikely that they will leak a few weeks/months down the line.
Ultimate Handyman Thanks again :)
You are welcome ;-)
Measuring and planning wins the day Dan. Mark it all out on the floor, sort your pipework out to its final points, ie bath, basin, toilet. Then you fit isolation valves. So say for instance where the bath taps go, you fit isolation valves about 300mm below where the taps will finish. Then you fill the system and open the valves til the water comes through. Shut them closed and then check all your plumbing for leaks, and that`s the main worry over. Use flexible tap hoses to put the bath away, these seldom leak, and you can do the tap end whilst the baths in free air anyway. Always do a bucket test on the waste traps, and around shower tray seal, before any flooring goes down or closing the shower tray in forever. There`s loads of help on CZcams, look in Screwfix catalogue for products out there which make it much less painful than it used to be. They even make copper push fit now, so you got more chance of the shower tray or bath seals leaking than any plumbing! Personally I only use Dow Corning sealants. Good Luck with it.
Got2Bgaga Thanks for the advice mate. Do I need to fit a double check valve for the bath or shower?
Thank you. I was wondering how to use them.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
If a coupling is bent 15 degrees under stress should i redo it?
It depends on the make. Some push fit can accommodate a pipe that is out, but to be honest, It’s probably best to redo it, to prevent future problems 👍
Feel Free to use a hacksaw and then use the de-burring tool etc.
Why are the inserts not in the bag with the fitting? Why are they sold separate?
Probably because you might be using the fitting on copper pipe.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very good video thanks for posting , enough information to make your own best choice 👍👌🇬🇧
Thanks for the comment
When using plastic push fit I would recommend using metal liners/sleeving.
You can only use the inserts that are compatible with the pipe that you are using.
For example John guest inserts have to be used on John guest pipe and Hep2O inserts have to be used on Hep20 pipe.
Very helpful and clear. Thanks.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Brilliant all the information I wanted to know thank you 👌
I'm glad the video was useful 👍
Excellent educational video. Thanks for sharing 👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Hi mate can i put a lever isolation tap onto plastic pipe iv got a cold feed goin to my shower i was gonna cut it an put the tap in for isolation reasons
Yes, no problem at all- just ensure you use the pipe inserts and it will be fine.
Thanks for the comment 😉
Can you use push fittings on any standard pipe or only push-fit pipes?
Yes, you can use them on any copper pipe 👍
I spent over 20 years as an alarm engineer and I hated this 'Speed Fit' crap.
The pipes can not be detected with an electronic pipe locator but buy poking a long drill bit in to hole I made in a stud wall, I could wiggle the drill bit and feel or hear the bit tapping against copper pipes... But not PVC pipes.
I sometimes asked the customers to turn the central heating up full blast the morning I was due to install an alarm in their house.
Electronic pipe locators don't work with PVC pipes but my hands could feel the hot spots on the walls. Some customers would moan about the heat, but would they prefer a nice neat job - or a flooded house?
If only I could afford to buy a thermal imaging camera!
Yeah, I guess that is one disadvantage to using plastic pipe.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Why do you need to go blasting through a stud wall? Carefully cut the board to its thickness and you are in, no problem.
Who said anything about 'blasting' through a stud wall? I used to make a small hole in a stud wall to a depth of 12mm or a small bit extra, then poke in a wire from a coat hanger. Used that wire to find pipes and cables. Have never drilled a hole through a pipe in the 20 years of installations but I did drill through a cable once and it blew the end off my drill bit.. :)
@@banjax66 thermal image camera's have come down in price. There not even in the £1000+ range eny more.. The other prob with speed fit is support. You need a brkt every two feet. They do this for compressed air as well and we won't use it or recommend it. Customers will fit this stuff themselves and then wonder why it looks like crap. A brkt every 1 or 2 mtrs and the pipe in between bends..
i totaly agree push fittings good for professional and diy loved the video.
Thanks for the comment
I am shocked that the scotchbrite leaves a fine enough finish not to damage and abrade the O ring. I'd feel compelled to follow that with some kind of burnishing or a 400 then 600 grit paper.
Is there a push fitting that adapts so you can attach a threaded flex pipe?
You can get these- fave.co/3gBIQHl
If using push-fit fittings with inserts will the flow rate be suitable for pressure washer
Yes, it should be absolutely fine. The only problem you might have with a pressure washer is if you use one of those self cutting taps.
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for your quick response much appreciated. Am not going to use a self cutting tap.
A very well explained video - thanks for sharing 👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
I would not use these on chrome plated copper pipe as the stainless grippers in the plastic fitting need a 'soft' material surface to grip properly.
That is correct.
Thanks for the comment
Fine if you rough the chrome up first.
True, but surely the reason for selecting chrome for a given location is for the aesthetic appearance, so you really would`nt be shoving a white pushfit on the end of it! Even chrome compression would look better.
I have chrome radiator tails and pushfit joins it under the floor. No probs 6 years on, as said make sure the chrome is roughed up first.
you CAN use say JG Fittings on any other manufacturers Pipe(And Vice Versa)
Yes, but the manufacturers don’t recommend it 😉
Wait till a fitting blows off, your insurance company will soon find out that the manufacturers do not recommend using their fittings on competitors pipes and vice versa!