See how Speedfit fittings create reliable and leak-proof connections each time, and prove it to anyone who questions the integrity of your favourite plumbing fitting.
I took the plunge and used JG fittings and pipe on a burst pipe recently and couldn’t quite believe how easy it was to use. It looks and feels like it’s been well made and will last! Top work JG, nice product 👍👍
Best video I've seen for this type of push-fit fitting. Ultra informative. I think it should be noted that the outside diameter of plastic pipe (and copper) is a standard but the inside is not. If you are using another manufacturer's pipe it is best to use their insert as it is designed specifically for their pipe. Copper doesn't need inserts as it is already sufficiently ridged.
I find myself using John guest fittings and piping more and more. Easy to work with, well made, excellent longevity. John Guest is the best available in my opinion. Also connects perfectly to copper pipes.
Ran out of collet collars but found that small tie wraps will do the same job. They also come in lots of different colours for easy pipe identificattion
Excellent product, used JG fittings in recent installation of water heater including PRV, expansion tank etc in very confined undersink area, completed job in well under half the time it would take with copper. Perfect.
Thank you as a plumber I will never use shark bite but I will have to admit your engineering of a mechanical joint is awesome and beautiful. I will use your products when necessary and explain their integrity when im questioned. Great product!!!
That looks very good. I got rather put off push-fit when using a different brand back in the early 1980s - one with a rather high insertion force that meant I failed to seat one fitting correctly. It let go as I was inspecting for leaks with a mains-powered line light. I reckon I used up one of my nine lives that day! So, I'm going to give these a go but the mains line-light is still something I won't use. 🙂
Dear John Guest Ltd; I'm just about to use some Speedfit pipe & fittings to repair a rather inaccessible leaking copper pipe joint in my home, so watched this, just to refresh my (poor) memory wrt whether or not I need to use inserts. Good job I checked, as they are needed. I used Speedfit in my home (but only where neccessasry to go through joists, 22 years ago). We have a damper bulb in the system, but when the washing machine solenoid SOV slams shut, the pipework still suffers slight hydraulic hammering...which means movement. So my concern is about fretting on the seals, and the effects on service life expectancy. The fittings were not like these new twist to lock ones, locking was achieved by slotting in horseshoe shaped washers under the release collar, which I did use, but I believe they were only for accidental release protection...they didn't compress the seal, as in this video. Thankfully as the system is part Speedfit, that makes breaking open for repair access much easier. But I see below you've answered a Q suggesting water as a re-assembly lubricant, and my query is about relubrication of the fittings, not for re-assembly, but for enhancing service life where hydraulic hammering exists. Should I relubricate the seals, and if yes what lubricant is compatible? As an Engineer, it's industry practice to NEVER re-use rubber seals, even static ones, but one of Speedfit's claimed advantages is that they can be 'demounted' and re-used. So my concern is whether i should replace these 22 year old disturbed Speedfit fittings with new ones, due to possibility of any wear they may have incurred from hydraulicing ! If yes, then uhh-ohh, how much more life can I expect from the remaining undisturbed ones...which i can't get at without major disruption? Any help / peace of mind restoratrion appreciated thanks. Regards, Allan
you could install a " Sioux Chief 660-H Water Hammer Arrestor 3/4" ( Washing Machine / Dishwasher ) Fitting Mini Rester. it just fits between the water inlet on the washing machine / dish washer, and the feed hose, you only need an adjustable spanner, I don't no where you live, but they have them in the USA, and the UK, with the correct thread form BSP ( British standard pipe thread ) parallel, in the UK. you could check out what the water pressure is, on you cold feed to the washing machine / dish washer is, if it is very high, you could fit a pressure reducing valve on the incoming mains water supply, to control the water pressure to 3.5 bar, or less, water hammer can do alot of damage, but can be sorted, just look it up on youtube, but make sure, it is been done by someone who knows what they are talking about, because there are so many videos, where they are talking rubbish, and don't even know it., which in turn makes thing worse. I have been plumbing since 1972
In reality The insert is so thick with its rubber end that the epdm O ring sits only 3mm away from the cut end of the pipe compared with Hep20 epdm O ring that sits 10mm away from the end of the cut Pipe Plus so many plumbers or Diy users never tighten the compression sections therefore not securing the Collet correctly and under high pressure would cause the pipe to pop out, where as Hep20 fittings already have that secured Collet seal to stop any incident like that occurring. 1:29
Two Questions: Doesn't the compression of the o-ring to a square over do the compression beyond the industry standard of 5% encouraging a set in the Buna N and ruining it? And Question 2 how do you prevent the steel teeth from damaging the lead O ring on the insert as it passes through them?
The stainless steel teeth are fixed onto finger like surfaces of the collet. The teeth are also angled towards the fitting so as to provide a secure anchor preventing the pipe from coming out of the fitting. So as you push the lead O ring past the teeth, the finger like surfaces that the teeth are attached to, are flexible enough that they give way to the O ring passing by, not giving any resistance and secondly the inward angle of the teeth also allow a smooth passage for the O ring to pass by. Hope this makes sense.
i have used it for the whole heating radiators in my house, i have 3 floors and 5 heating radiators. we have a district heating system in the netherlands with water flowing of 80/90 degrees, and about 3 to 4 bar. i must say in the first installation some connection leaked.. but after i checked again i saw that the tube was cutted crooked. i cut it straigt again and the leaking was gone. i used it one winter period without any leakings so far, but i am just curious if it will be fine next year? can i trust the John Guest Speedfit system? and for how long will it last? because the connections are made in the wall. does it reach a lifespan of 30years? it's a very nice system, but i dont know how for i can trust the installation, if anyone can clarify this for me i would be relieved :)
Only, and only if the pipe and the fitting are immaculately clean, and free of any, but any debris typically found on sites. Also, the outer surface of the pipe must be perfectly round, typically an insert is necessary to ensure this, and completely free of scratches, scuffs etc, else water can leak under the O-ring. When you cut the pipe you will be creating a sharp edge and that edge can and will injure the O-ring when inserting. Finally, I am not sure what data we have on the longevity of the O-ring with cold/hot cycles, even freezing temperatures, or boiling hot water. Remember the Columbia...
That video was almost really good, but the illustration did not show why the stainless steel teeth are forced to dig into the pipe when tightening the fitting.
The cut marks on my pipes vary between 22.5mm and 27.5mm spacing on each. Standard appears to be around 23.5mm. The heads of the different support tubes are either 3.5 or 6.5mm What is your official tolerance? It's not easy to measure the O ring locations inside ...
I'm new to plastic piping but I'm finding the tutorial extremely difficult to follow due to the intrusive and completely pointless background music. Actually it is so stupidly loud it sounds like it's the narration that is in the background.
Used my first Speedfit fitting-some 22mm bath tails.copper was clean and undeformed.Both leaked..........dissapointing,back to nut and olive joints for me
Hi Fiaz, If you look at page 38 in our product guide, you'll find a table with different bend radius for different pipe, here is a link: bit.ly/2OgeXLl All of our guides can be found at Speedfit.co.uk. JG Speedfit
Having used these fitting quite a lot I just had a problem with one that I needed to uncouple. (The Tee fitting had probably had some, tho not a lot of side loading applied after it was in place). I did succeed but it was hugely resistive and the outer turning case actually came off. I should add I tightened it & loosened it several times and even resorted to using lightly closed mole grips to push the collect ring in (It really didn't want to move). Never known one stick like that before so I was looking to see if there's a technique I'm missing. As I wind the outer case back, push forward the collect push the pipe forward and back and that usually works I'm foxed what else I should have done?
@@davidreece1642 Since I wrote that original I had two copper pipes (15mm) in straight couplings at one end and with blanking caps on the other. Temporary awaiting taps until I finished a lot of other jobs ~ So they were capped for 10 or 12 weeks. Although the caps weren't difficult to get off, I was really surprised to see the tips of the copper pipe had a lot of verdigris corrosion. That might be relevant because .... If it can do that in under 3 months after 15 years yours could be more or less 'brazed' or corroded together? . How did I free the original pipe: First off I loosened the collar (collet?) to the 'unscrewed but attached' position. Then using an oldstyle (flat sided) adjustable wrench gapped a whisker wider than the pipe so I could slide it along to press the ring back into the collar/collet then tried to work out the pipe - pushing the ring forward and twisting a pulling back the pipe with a rubber faced work glove on for max grip. (If you don't want the pipe you could use moles for grip I guess). . That usually works. But this time got me nowhere. So I unscrewed the collar/collet at the *other* side of the joint completely. I probably used big moles (maybe a clamp would grip it too) as it all had to come off and be replaced anyway. As corrosion may be the problem going after the far side of the coupling may be your best option too?
@@Farweasel Thank you for your detailed reply. Using mole grips with gentle pressure (but a bit more than my 62 yo hand could apply) I manged to unscrew the unit and the copper pipe released. As you say there was some verdigris (2mm) on the external surface of the copper pipe to the inside of the pushfit fitting.
Is it possible to use plastic pipe with JG tube support with metal compression fittings? Like can I fit a metal compression isolation valve directly to plastic pipe?
Years ago I installed a heating system in house and used hep pipe and compression joints, worked great, don't go as tight as you would with copper. The olive grips the plastic far more readily
Been using this stuff for years. Never had a failure at all. But never forget the pipe inserts!
Was going to ask if you always need the inserts.
Yes you do, except for when you use it with copper pipe obvs
I took the plunge and used JG fittings and pipe on a burst pipe recently and couldn’t quite believe how easy it was to use. It looks and feels like it’s been well made and will last! Top work JG, nice product 👍👍
Best video I've seen for this type of push-fit fitting. Ultra informative. I think it should be noted that the outside diameter of plastic pipe (and copper) is a standard but the inside is not. If you are using another manufacturer's pipe it is best to use their insert as it is designed specifically for their pipe. Copper doesn't need inserts as it is already sufficiently ridged.
I find myself using John guest fittings and piping more and more. Easy to work with, well made, excellent longevity. John Guest is the best available in my opinion. Also connects perfectly to copper pipes.
Probably the best fittings on the market. Only down side bit chunkier! Some times that is an issue.but simply brilliant
Ran out of collet collars but found that small tie wraps will do the same job. They also come in lots of different colours for easy pipe identificattion
Excellent product, used JG fittings in recent installation of water heater including PRV, expansion tank etc in very confined undersink area, completed job in well under half the time it would take with copper. Perfect.
Thank you as a plumber I will never use shark bite but I will have to admit your engineering of a mechanical joint is awesome and beautiful. I will use your products when necessary and explain their integrity when im questioned. Great product!!!
Truman Ray
What’s wrong with sharkbite
Never had one fail
Same company makes both.
Absolute life savers under a flooded manufactured home.
That looks very good. I got rather put off push-fit when using a different brand back in the early 1980s - one with a rather high insertion force that meant I failed to seat one fitting correctly. It let go as I was inspecting for leaks with a mains-powered line light. I reckon I used up one of my nine lives that day!
So, I'm going to give these a go but the mains line-light is still something I won't use. 🙂
Absolutely fantastic fittings.
Dear John Guest Ltd; I'm just about to use some Speedfit pipe & fittings to repair a rather inaccessible leaking copper pipe joint in my home, so watched this, just to refresh my (poor) memory wrt whether or not I need to use inserts. Good job I checked, as they are needed. I used Speedfit in my home (but only where neccessasry to go through joists, 22 years ago). We have a damper bulb in the system, but when the washing machine solenoid SOV slams shut, the pipework still suffers slight hydraulic hammering...which means movement. So my concern is about fretting on the seals, and the effects on service life expectancy. The fittings were not like these new twist to lock ones, locking was achieved by slotting in horseshoe shaped washers under the release collar, which I did use, but I believe they were only for accidental release protection...they didn't compress the seal, as in this video. Thankfully as the system is part Speedfit, that makes breaking open for repair access much easier. But I see below you've answered a Q suggesting water as a re-assembly lubricant, and my query is about relubrication of the fittings, not for re-assembly, but for enhancing service life where hydraulic hammering exists. Should I relubricate the seals, and if yes what lubricant is compatible? As an Engineer, it's industry practice to NEVER re-use rubber seals, even static ones, but one of Speedfit's claimed advantages is that they can be 'demounted' and re-used. So my concern is whether i should replace these 22 year old disturbed Speedfit fittings with new ones, due to possibility of any wear they may have incurred from hydraulicing ! If yes, then uhh-ohh, how much more life can I expect from the remaining undisturbed ones...which i can't get at without major disruption? Any help / peace of mind restoratrion appreciated thanks. Regards, Allan
you could install a " Sioux Chief 660-H Water Hammer Arrestor 3/4" ( Washing Machine / Dishwasher ) Fitting Mini Rester.
it just fits between the water inlet on the washing machine / dish washer, and the feed hose, you only need an adjustable spanner, I don't no where you live, but they have them in the USA, and the UK, with the correct thread form BSP
( British standard pipe thread ) parallel, in the UK.
you could check out what the water pressure is, on you cold feed to the washing machine / dish washer is, if it is very high, you could fit a pressure reducing valve on the incoming mains water supply, to control the water pressure to 3.5 bar, or less,
water hammer can do alot of damage, but can be sorted, just look it up on youtube, but make sure, it is been done by someone who knows what they are talking about, because there are so many videos, where they are talking rubbish, and don't even know it., which in turn makes thing worse.
I have been plumbing since 1972
this is a great presentation thanks.
Best ones on the market by far!
Quality video for a quality product
important video.great job❤
Excellent description.
In reality The insert is so thick with its rubber end that the epdm O ring sits only 3mm away from the cut end of the pipe compared with Hep20 epdm O ring that sits 10mm away from the end of the cut Pipe
Plus so many plumbers or Diy users never tighten the compression sections therefore not securing the Collet correctly and under high pressure would cause the pipe to pop out, where as Hep20 fittings already have that secured Collet seal to stop any incident like that occurring. 1:29
Do I need to use the circlips that clip in to stop the collet moving backwards when using these? Toolstation don't stock them...
What is the maximum pressure these fittings can take?
When soldering a seperate Copper pipe next to the JG Fitting ie a stop end on a mains copper pipe
Is the plastic fire proof ?
Two Questions: Doesn't the compression of the o-ring to a square over do the compression beyond the industry standard of 5% encouraging a set in the Buna N and ruining it? And Question 2 how do you prevent the steel teeth from damaging the lead O ring on the insert as it passes through them?
The stainless steel teeth are fixed onto finger like surfaces of the collet. The teeth are also angled towards the fitting so as to provide a secure anchor preventing the pipe from coming out of the fitting. So as you push the lead O ring past the teeth, the finger like surfaces that the teeth are attached to, are flexible enough that they give way to the O ring passing by, not giving any resistance and secondly the inward angle of the teeth also allow a smooth passage for the O ring to pass by. Hope this makes sense.
Do I need to use collit clips aswell? Or are they just for the pushfits thats don't have the rotating lock.
i have used it for the whole heating radiators in my house, i have 3 floors and 5 heating radiators.
we have a district heating system in the netherlands with water flowing of 80/90 degrees, and about 3 to 4 bar.
i must say in the first installation some connection leaked.. but after i checked again i saw that the tube was cutted crooked. i cut it straigt again and the leaking was gone.
i used it one winter period without any leakings so far, but i am just curious if it will be fine next year?
can i trust the John Guest Speedfit system? and for how long will it last? because the connections are made in the wall. does it reach a lifespan of 30years?
it's a very nice system, but i dont know how for i can trust the installation, if anyone can clarify this for me i would be relieved :)
Only, and only if the pipe and the fitting are immaculately clean, and free of any, but any debris typically found on sites. Also, the outer surface of the pipe must be perfectly round, typically an insert is necessary to ensure this, and completely free of scratches, scuffs etc, else water can leak under the O-ring. When you cut the pipe you will be creating a sharp edge and that edge can and will injure the O-ring when inserting. Finally, I am not sure what data we have on the longevity of the O-ring with cold/hot cycles, even freezing temperatures, or boiling hot water. Remember the Columbia...
Challenger?
does not show putting clamp / washer and removing it with the tool
Thanks for this presentation.
Please I have a question, in the factory what is the usual test for this piece
That video was almost really good, but the illustration did not show why the stainless steel teeth are forced to dig into the pipe when tightening the fitting.
It does
The cut marks on my pipes vary between 22.5mm and 27.5mm spacing on each.
Standard appears to be around 23.5mm.
The heads of the different support tubes are either 3.5 or 6.5mm
What is your official tolerance? It's not easy to measure the O ring locations inside ...
What material is this and what is material grade
the pipe need an o-ring end?
I'm new to plastic piping but I'm finding the tutorial extremely difficult to follow due to the intrusive and completely pointless background music. Actually it is so stupidly loud it sounds like it's the narration that is in the background.
Need more specs.
Used my first Speedfit fitting-some 22mm bath tails.copper was clean and undeformed.Both leaked..........dissapointing,back to nut and olive joints for me
Are these available in U.S? Any SAE sizes ?
Hello. nice explanation. Could you tell me what is your software for making this nice vedio? Thanks
Hello,
To what extent can the pipes be bent before it becomes necessary to use an additional fitting?
Hi Fiaz,
If you look at page 38 in our product guide, you'll find a table with different bend radius for different pipe, here is a link: bit.ly/2OgeXLl
All of our guides can be found at Speedfit.co.uk.
JG Speedfit
@@JohnGuestLtd That link no longer works, could you please share an updated link?
Having used these fitting quite a lot I just had a problem with one that I needed to uncouple. (The Tee fitting had probably had some, tho not a lot of side loading applied after it was in place). I did succeed but it was hugely resistive and the outer turning case actually came off. I should add I tightened it & loosened it several times and even resorted to using lightly closed mole grips to push the collect ring in (It really didn't want to move). Never known one stick like that before so I was looking to see if there's a technique I'm missing.
As I wind the outer case back, push forward the collect push the pipe forward and back and that usually works I'm foxed what else I should have done?
I'm having the same problem now. 15mm copper pipe inserted into an elbow joint and the collet will not budge. Probably been in place about 15 years.
Should 've added how did you eventually remove the pipe?
@@davidreece1642 Since I wrote that original I had two copper pipes (15mm) in straight couplings at one end and with blanking caps on the other. Temporary awaiting taps until I finished a lot of other jobs ~ So they were capped for 10 or 12 weeks.
Although the caps weren't difficult to get off, I was really surprised to see the tips of the copper pipe had a lot of verdigris corrosion.
That might be relevant because ....
If it can do that in under 3 months after 15 years yours could be more or less 'brazed' or corroded together?
.
How did I free the original pipe:
First off I loosened the collar (collet?) to the 'unscrewed but attached' position.
Then using an oldstyle (flat sided) adjustable wrench gapped a whisker wider than the pipe so I could slide it along to press the ring back into the collar/collet then tried to work out the pipe - pushing the ring forward and twisting a pulling back the pipe with a rubber faced work glove on for max grip. (If you don't want the pipe you could use moles for grip I guess).
.
That usually works. But this time got me nowhere.
So
I unscrewed the collar/collet at the *other* side of the joint completely. I probably used big moles (maybe a clamp would grip it too) as it all had to come off and be replaced anyway.
As corrosion may be the problem going after the far side of the coupling may be your best option too?
@@Farweasel Thank you for your detailed reply. Using mole grips with gentle pressure (but a bit more than my 62 yo hand could apply) I manged to unscrew the unit and the copper pipe released. As you say there was some verdigris (2mm) on the external surface of the copper pipe to the inside of the pushfit fitting.
Is it possible to use plastic pipe with JG tube support with metal compression fittings?
Like can I fit a metal compression isolation valve directly to plastic pipe?
Yes you can use plastic pipe (with an insert) and compression fittings.
Years ago I installed a heating system in house and used hep pipe and compression joints, worked great, don't go as tight as you would with copper. The olive grips the plastic far more readily
do the fittings need silicone spray or similar like hep2o?
The o’rings already have a coating on them so they do not need silicone spray. If needed we would advise to use some water as an extra lubricant.
Iv never used an insert 😂.
How to buy this product
I mean 3d animation
who doesn't use pushfit anymore!
DO YOUR FITTINGS FIT BOTH YOUR STRAIGHT PIPES AND THE YOUR PIPES IN A COIL.
Yes they do. :)
Tried removing one of these type fittings from an outdoor tap pipework. Would it come off?...would it bollocks! had to saw the fucker off.
Laughing.
If you could make these things like not hurt the fuck out of my fingers to remove i would greatly enjoy that thank you.
The music is annoying
Agreed