Brewing a Coopers Australian Pale Ale (with a Twist) | Can to Glass | Dry Hopping
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Here I brew the Coopers Australian Pale Ale extract home brew kit. I set out to brew it as closely to the commercial version as I could, but ended up changing plan slightly and dry hopping it which actually turned out great.
Recipe:
1 Coopers Australian Pale Ale Kit
500g Light Dried Malt Extract
250g Dextrose Brewing Sugar
1 Crossmyloof Nottingham Ale Yeast
Dry-hopped with 25g Motueka/25g Taiheke
Youngs Beer Heading Liquid
i love this stuff done with 2kg plain white sugar. Clean and crisp taste. Thanks.
A dry hop works well with it as well. Very versatile kit but also great brewed as is. Cheers!
Another good review. Keep them coming! I'm learning a lot from your videos
Thanks for watching and cheers for the comments. Happy brewing.
If you harvest the yeast from the bottles its almost indistinguishable from the commercial version (in my experience). As you say though, even though you can buy them in the UK, they are very expensive for what is only a 375ml bottle. I'm reading a book on the history of Coopers brewery and it seems the original strain was a wild yeast they later isolated (they use the same yeast in all their ales). As such, and similar to wild yeast varieties, it imparts a slight banana, fruity flavour to the beer.
Can't stand those fruity beers
I have harvested the Coopers yeast from the commercial pale ale before and used it to ferment the pale ale kit.
From my experience it was good beer but it really wasn't worth the hassle. Better off just doing what you did and buying a decent yeast strain.
I think if you do a little bit more reading about the yeast leftover in a Coopers pale ale bottle you'll find that the yeast they put in the bottle to prime the beer is different than the yeast they use to ferment the wort.
That's interesting, sounds like it's not worth the hassle or expense. I've just brewed this kit again, but mashed some grain to make up the extra fermentables. I used the same Nottingham yeast as I did before. Should be ready in 4 weeks so I'll post the vid when ready.
@@G-townbrewer can't really go wrong with that kit mate. I've got a keg of it on tap at the moment.
Just brewed it up as per the instructions using kit yeast and brew enhancer 2 👍
Liking your vids fella. I have occasionally seen Coopers beers in some Marks and Spencer’.
Cheers and thanks for watching. Thanks for the heads-up, I'll keep my eye out in M&S for the Coopers bottles.
I thought that the Coopers yeast that comes with the Australian Pale Ale kit was the dried version of the same strain used with the commercial version. Home brewers may be throwing away perfectly fine yeast. Thoughts?
I don't think so mate. If you check the Coopers DIY website there are a few recipes which suggest using the commercial yeast but this harvested from the bottles. You can look up the code on the packet and find out what type of yeast it is. From memory I think the one that comes with the AuPA is a ale/lager hybrid...maybe wrong though.
I did Coopers Amber Ale using the yeast that was supplied. It's still a little young (4 weeks old) and there's a definite 'yeasty' home brew smell and taste. Would you say using Nottingham yeast would eliminate this? Most other brewers on he don't use the supplied Coopers yeast. Great videos.
It will definitely benefit from a longer conditioning. It's amazing the difference a few weeks makes to a beer. In terms of yeast, IMHO, upgrading it from the kit yeast makes a big difference. Gervin (which is a Nottingham yeast) can be picked up in Wilko for a couple of quid. Or maybe try S04 which is easily obtainable.
@@G-townbrewer Thanks greatly for the reply. After watching loads of cooper brews on here and no one was using the supplied yeast alarm bells began to ring. I'm just heading out to Wilkos for the yeast for my next brew, pimped up Coopers Pale Ale (Ashes Ale).
What bottled water would you recommend for lager. As i know you use bottled rather than tap.
For my all grain brews I use Spotless Water - if you’re in the UK Google it. For kits I’m not as worried, so I’d use Tesco Ashbeck water or treated tap water, but it all depends what you’re tap water is like. Cheers.
@G-townbrewer spotless is miles from me, I've seen on threads ashbeck is good, just like you said. Thanks for reply. Psi love the video.
I am in the 🇬🇧
3.7% is a summer guzzling beer.
Hydration. 😎🍻
Mate look at that head
Just a question why do some people say don't stir the yeast in? Cheers
@@Wally-r1f no idea, can’t see what difference it would make as long as the stirrer is sanitised.
@@G-townbrewer ok thanks heaps 👍
Hey mate, I have access to coopers pale ale bottles. Is 6 stubbies of yeast cake enough to start a 23 litre wort?
I haven't actually harvested the yeast from the bottles as they are not readily available in the UK, but this is the info from the Coopers DIY website:
How do I reactivate Coopers Commercial Ale Yeast?
Coopers, encourage brewers to use the yeast from naturally conditioned Coopers ales. The same ale strain is used across the range - Mild Ale, Pale Ale, Dark Ale, Sparkling Ale, Best Extra Stout and Extra Strong Vintage Ale.
There are numerous documented techniques, with varying levels of complexity, for re-activating the yeast in naturally conditioned beer. The method described below may leave some readers, experienced in growing yeast cultures, aghast. “What! No stir plate, no malt, no alcohol swabs, no nutrient, no way! However, for Coopers yeast, it works...
Method
1. Buy a six pack of Coopers Original Pale Ale and place upright in the fridge for about a week for the yeast to settle.
2. Mix about 600ml of boiling water and 4 tablespoons of dextrose/sugar in a pyrex jug, cover with cling-wrap and leave to cool in the fridge for about 30mins.
3. Open 4 bottles and decant the beer into a jug, leaving behind the yeast sediment - about a couple of centimetres.
4. Pour the sugared water equally into each bottle, cover with cling-wrap and secure with a rubber band.
5. Shake the bottles then place them in a dark spot at a temperature in the mid 20’s.
6. Give the bottles a shake in the morning and at night to keep the yeast in suspension.
7. After around 2 to 3 days the yeast should become active and begin forming a head.
8. Pitch the active yeast into a brew immediately or store in the fridge for about a week. Just remember to pull it out of the fridge to warm for couple of hours prior to pitching.
Some additional points to keep in mind; - start with more yeast by using all 6 bottles,
- buy beer with the freshest yeast (ie. latest “Best After” date),
- lower alcohol content is better (mild ale or pale ale),
- it’s okay to hold the culture at slightly higher temps to promote a quicker reactivation,
- one sanitised vessel (approx 1 litre) may be used rather than separate bottles,
- make sure the culture smells okay before pitching,
- buy another 6 pack for each culture and
- don’t forget to drink the decanted beer
@@G-townbrewer your a champion thanks mate 🍻🍻
Also happy to send you a 6 pack I pay $57 aud for a carton
@@Uf0z1 That's very generous - I've just found out they are now stocked by an online supermarket in the UK and even have them on offer at the moment for £1.70, so I shall order some up. Cheers
@@Uf0z1 Good luck hope it turns out well for you!
I always thought that single tin kits where you add glucose (sugar) cheapen the ingredients relative to the double tin method, which is pure malt extract.
If you go into Wilkos you can buy a decent kit for £22.
woodfordes-wherry-real-ale-making-kit-3kg
Price per pint: 56p
I know that with Coopers kits still allow a good grade of beer with actual minimal understanding of theory and minimal capital outlay.
I read in the instructions that you are not suppose to use above 70g of sugar for carbonation purposes.