Threading on a manual lathe BEST TECHNIQUE EVER !!!!
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- SAFETY WARNING.......Please exercise caution and use good judgement when running a machine with a true screw on chuck in reverse. Excessive spindle load with the machine in reverse could potentially unscrew your chuck causing damage and personal injury. Refer to your operator or machine manual for safety suggestions. Cam lock or keyed and collared chucks are the safest to run in reverse. This demonstration is for reference only and should be used at your own discretion.A short demonstration of a different way to run a single point thread on an engine lathe. This technique allows for the use of a positive stop without the worry of shearing off the lead screw shear pin. You can increase your rpm and avoid the stress of the split second half nut disengagement. You will never do threads the old way again! This was my first ever machining video, so please excuse the shaky nature of the material. Thanks.
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Like many others that have commented I have been doing it wrong for many years. I watched this video last week, and since I knew I was going to thread up to a flange for a job this Week, I tried it and it worked absolutely perfect! I may never thread toward the chuck again. I have enjoyed many of your other videos too! Thanks again.
I started work as an apprentice in a toolroom at the age of fifteen making press tools and although I'm retired now and at the age of seventy five still have my own workshop with twelve machines making model aero engines, I sometimes go on CZcams to see what other guy's do in engineering to pick up some tips but some make me cringe with fear but you Joe remind me of my old boss when he said to me as a boy, you will never stop learning about engineering for the rest of your life, someone will always come up with a new or fresh idea and looking at what you do proves him correct, I would like to work with you in your shop but I reside in the U.K, Keep up the good work.
I am in the beginning of that process. I am 16 and just started my apprenticeship. I am planning on using my toolroom knowledge to build band instruments.
Congrats Phil, I am 78 and been a toolmaker for 50 years now and tired of seeing the rush, rush of todays toolroom. CNC edm machines, both sinkers and wire, made the EDM process much more efficient and faster, now they can make sub gates with ease while doing something else, no more parrafin oil, just purified water, EDM machines almost made grinders obsolete. Textured finishes bypasses mold polishing saving huge times. Now EDM's can provide 63 finish easily! Its a new world.
you are ok mate safety first.
Me too ole boy
have you worked on french machines with no half nut Phil
Man Joe I am truly humbled with your skill set! As a rookie I appreciate you taking the time to share your tips and knowledge , thanks again .
Charlie ( Louisville Ky)
An old machinist taught me this trick back in the 70's. Often got comments from boss like, "I don't want left handed threads", but they shut up when they saw the results. Thanks for sharing, Joe. I hope the young guys are listening.
Me too. I like to believe they are.
@@joepie221 I wish someone around my place had a mixed shop like you do so I could ply my conventional machine skills. It's all CNC and younguns out of tech school, though. One day when transistors get fried, they'll come knocking, I hope.
@@joepie221 we are listening.
Yes sir we are listening. I was doing threads on rifle barrels going in for about 6 months and having issues stopping the tool in time before I hit the shoulder of the barrel. Especially on fast threads. I knew there had to be a better way. Now I am going out and my product is much cleaner, better threads, and far less stress.
@@clemkadiddlehopper7705 Before transistors, the first electronics I learned were vacuum tubes: diode, triode, pentode, etc. Now that they are thinking of sending probes to Venus once again and worry for electronics to be fried up there, old technology could work fine and safe.
I thank you sir, not only a clear description of how to thread, a clear description of the easiest way to thread……and no damage to the machine is possible. I am appreciative of you help sir.
You are very welcome, good luck.
To my You Tube viewers. I welcome all feedback, negative or positive. Naturally, this technique has saved me hundreds of hours over the years and made threading more enjoyable. If you have any fears or reservations about the advice, by all means run your machine the safest and best way for your skill set and environment. Thanks for watching.
Joe Pieczynski First great video! Second i was just talking with a co worker about this he swears that the angle must be set at 29.5 degrees and u only can use that to adjust your depth of cut then just use the straight back to get back to zero. I said u should be able to go straight in every time as long as u clock it correct. He argued that our cnc lathe compensates a small amount each time it enters when threading to go in at a angle. (All we use is carbide) so why is this and who is correct?
With the tool upside down and threading left to right, does the 29 1/2 still apply or it the degree 30 1/2?
Hey Joe, another great video! Any chance you teach machining locally, or would allow a fan to spend some time in your shop?
Ecoboosted, as no one else has answered I shall jump in. You get equally good results doing it either way, all things being equal. The old excuse that you have to go in at an angle to prevent chip crowding is just plain hogwash on any reasonable quality lathe. If using full form carbide threading inserts you might actually notice an improved finish going straight in. If you doubt this, give it a go for yourself and then you can speak to your co worker with some authority. Regrettably some classically trained machinists will only follow their tutors instructions without the giving it any thought of their own. The better machinists, like Joe, Robin Renzetti or Stefan Gotteswinter have the wit to give what they are doing some thought and will try different things.
Remember that an apprentice should not just equal his master but exceed him, otherwise the trade becomes stagnant. With the likes of Joe there is little risk of this.
The easiest way to measure with pitch wires is to hold them in place with an elastic band.
Half the time I have no idea what you are talking about but your passion makes it so enjoyable to watch.
This was my first machining video. Its rough, but I think I made my point. Thanks for watching.
Joe I have been a machinist for 30 years in South Africa and have never seen or thought about your technique ! Wow This video is great so simple but a completely different way of looking at thread cutting Shows you are never too old to learn Thanks so much
After watching this Sunday night I used this method to cut a 32 TPI thread today on what would have been a blind end , I must say being an amateur Hobbyist this worked well for me and saved a lot of tense moments that i normally have , lucky for me my Lead screw is 4 TPI so no need to use the Engagement dial in this case . I really enjoy your presentations and have used many over the last few years. Thanks again.
Its good to know these videos are helping. Threading can be very stressful, but doesn't have to be. Good luck and thanks for the feedback.
You are a great teacher Joe - really appreciate what you pass on.
Thank you.
Especially since no school will teach this anymore. You have critical, rare knowledge, and you give it away to us. God bless you.
I really appreciate the way you explain turning operations. Your right to the point no excessive talking. You explain it clearly as to how and why. Someone like you who is a talented professional is always a pleasure to watch and listen to learn proper techniques👍
I appreciate that!
The only man I know of who ran his tool into the tailstock while he was checking his watch, flexing his fingers, doing ten pressups, getting a coffee, and waving to the camera! 😜
Good info as always, thanks
Classic.
Phew, I think I have motion sickness after watching that. I’m glad Joe is now using a tripod for his videos.
Haha, yeah, it's like watching a bike or car race via helmet-mounted camera, without the excitement but all the nausea.
Brilliant, Thanks for mentioning the screw on chucks, most folks wouldn't realize the danger until it was too late....
I am 33 years in the Plumbing trade and I am a "hobby" machinist at home. Now I know what it's like when I tell new plumbers the "right" way to do it, or the "book" way to do it. Thanks Mr. P
Be gentle for best results.
Joe! I have been a machinist/toolmaker for 45 years, building and maintaining plastic injection molds and progressive dies, yet your teaching me new things daily with your videos, thank you sir!!! I always plunge my threads on engine lathe taking 2 passes at .001 each time with tap magic to shine them up! Over the years however, using thread wires required too much time, so using a nut would suffice, but that is wrong, yet the "new way"! What is happening with todays toolmakers Joe??? With the exception of computer frames, metal stamping dies seem to have gone by the wayside and replaced by plastics, for very hard plastic, we have fiberglass filled plastic molding, ceramic molding, all injection molding. Fortunately, I am 78 now and don't need future speed and lack of quality.
Thanks for all your videos Joe!!! Well done!
I appreciate the comment.
Great tips. Wish I had a machine shop, still I find this entertaining. Better than what's on TV!
I find your screen name entertaining. Good one.
Way better than 📺 TV
Would have loved to have known this trick back when I was staring out. Learned it about ten years before I retired after many butt cramps. Thanks Joe.
Posting again to say I'm still using this threading process about 4 yrs after learned of it here. Great process...it changed my life...threading on a lathe.
As an apprentice Toolmaker in the UK in the early 70's, one of our Toolroom turners showed me this approach to screw cutting but I didn't use it until I saw your CZcams video probably a couple of years ago. It really is a game changer, I wouldn't do it any other way now. I think you also probably said you can also run the spindle at a much higher speed more in keeping with the material and diameter, another huge advantage. Brilliant Joe. Keep up the great work
Thanks Joe, it would have saved me a lot of grief if I had been taught this as an apprentice in 1965!
I really like this method I single point thread gun barrels and you are right it gets intense I used your method today and it was perfect. I noticed that the thread was cleaner and was like the easiest job no stress. thanks for showing me your tricks
What lathe you use for threading barrels?
I was 90% sure that"BEST TECHNIQUE EVER" in your vdeo description is not just commercial.And now i am 100% it is not.As aslways good tips.Thx!!
Hi Joe,
I'm a retired tool maker and appreciate what you are doing to show the younger future machinists " how to " .
It is a talent that is not taught enough in trade schools that is if you find any.
Thank you for sharing you knowledge.
John
you can also engage the half nut before you rotate to eliminate errors in catching the right line on the chasing dial
Wow, I have been trying to figure out how to cut metric threads on an imperial lead screw against a hard shoulder. So easy using this method. Thanks Joe!!
David, Not so sure that would work. My experience is with metric on a imperial lead screw is you cannot release the 1/2 nuts, you have to reverse the spindle and keep the 1/2 nuts closed until finished.
@@mikebowling3228 I should have explained a bit further. In the case of metric threads I am not releasing the half nuts but just powering off the motor at the end of the cut. I then reverse the motor back to the right of the thread to reposition for another cut. It's not what Joe described exactly, but I am using an upside down cutting tool and cutting right to left.
This is a great idea for that when you can't release the half nuts. Removes potential disaster if the spindle doesn't stop immediately upon power off
Yep- you can't open the half nuts typically. Reverse the lathe close to the hard stop.. then manually crank the lathe into the hard stop
Joe, I cannot thank you enough for this video. I run a small custom gun shop in Alaska. Since switching to this method I've been able to make the cleanest threads I've ever done on gun barrels since I can run much higher speeds. No more clenching the checks as I worry if one mistake will cost me several hundred dollars in a new barrel and free work to fit and install it. Love the channel, please keep it up!
Excellent. Watch the thread dial video too. It will close the loop.
It's great to see old school machinists sharing their knowledge online. I'm sure Joe remembers the days when these tricks were never shared. Well done Joe, will have to subscribe.
I do remember. Many times, the guy next to you would throw a rag over his work as you passed by or stopped to talk. It was a different time back then.
"Who'd of thought" great idea. Can't wait to try it, great video Joe. Thanks for sharing
At 10:52 I use the term pitch diameter. This is not what it really is. The dimension you will get by adding the 'Add' value from the PD chart that comes with the wires, and nominal OD size of the thread, is a reference dimension for use with the actual pitch diameters from the machinist handbook. You subtract the 'Constant' value from the wire chart to calculate the PD of the thread. This will get you very close to a working thread in the absence of the high and low dimensions that govern different classes of threads. If you have any questions, just ask and I'll try to answer them.
Joe Pieczynski thanks for explaining ,I was wondering about that
Great teaching, I've used that same way for many years. I have only one suggestion, personally I have found placing two "PeeDee" wires horizontally on top allows me to hold the third wire level under the part making it easier to handle & feel the mic fit.
I often wondered just what the three wire method M gave you. So drew it up on a CAD system and found that you calculate M and that gives you the top limit of a class 3A thread. You would cut slightly smaller to achieve class 2 or 1 geometry. One other thought is to use twist drills in place of the wires. Just as effective, but more likely to be found in most shops.
This video is under-known.
Well done, Joe Pie! Again, outstanding work. An old machinist visited my hobby shop today. When we spoke about how I planned to cut threads for the first time next week, he told me to look this video up. That is how impactful your videos are. He probably saw this years ago, and just told me about it today. Again, thanks.
Thats awesome to hear. this was my very first machining channel video. I plan to re-shoot, and re-release it. I've gotten a little better at that end of it.
Well I never, how simple and, like all answers, so obvious once you have been told. No more hand turning the chuck for me anymore. Thanks a whole bunch - take a gold star and a smiley face.
Done! They are on the fridge.
Colchester Lathe! well i remember being shown this technique at Reading skill centre UK on a 1 1/2Whitworth thread in 1983. They made us do the trig with drill wires before letting us use the charts lol, thanks for sharing this
Tool will have been hand ground too ill bet, me too. Pain in the arse , but when the nut went on, WOOPEE. lol
It appears to be a Clausing Colchester Lathe. The most user friendly engine lathe. It is not. Chinese?
I continue to be impressed by your common sense approach to machining things that should be taught but aren't, thank you
as long as you remember to turn the lathe on in reverse.... don't ask...
you are by far the best , I have learned something new after 30 years of machining, your videos should be a must for apprentice machinist classes, if there was a prize you sure deserve it.
Thank you very much.
Hi Joe, I am a Technology Teacher and these tips are so helpful when teaching young people. It can be nerve-racking working on lathes with kids. I will be way more comfortable cutting thread away from the chuck! Many thanks for sharing your experience. It may just save a life.
Thats good to hear. I don't know why this isn't the method taught as a standard. Its so much safer for the machine and low stress on the operator.
thanks Joe, I too am retired and have used this method for years. never dawned on me about the screw and the chuck rotation. cheked it every time
Nice video some good advice. The same can be achieved using an internal thread bar on the opposite side of the stock. Spindle still runs in reverse but the rotational forces will be directed into the solid tool post. The tool won't be lifted off of the tool post should it become loosened. You still need to be aware that the chuck can still come loose though.
Your suggestion is good, but conditional. On longer parts, or parts between centers, it can't be utilized if a long part is exposed before the threaded area. In all my years, I have never positioned a tool on the back of the part in a conventional engine lathe. I was just never shown or exposed to that technique. One day I'll have to try it out. Thanks for the comment.
I never comment on videos, but this right here is what I've been looking for. I'm starting a home shop and am doing everything I can to avoid "accidental costs" such as crashing. Even going so far as installing a 3 phase motor and vfd for fine rpm control to avoid what your video just taught me. Thanks for this. Like I've always said, old knowledge is the best knowledge, cause it was earned.
I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Good luck with your shop.
I've owned my JET Model 1325PBD for 30 years and never had occasion to cut threads ... until today. I have 3 submersible pumps (for hydroponic gardening) with 5/8 inch NPT inlet/outlet ports. Not only was it impossible to locate any 5/8 NPT fittings on Planet Earth, but the only place I found a 5/8 NPT threading die was on eBay ... 2 weeks away. I decided to construct my own 5/8 x 14 tpi fittings by learning how to cut threads on my lathe. I happened to watch Joe's threading hack video before cutting my threads, so I did it Joe's way ... and it worked like a champ! Cutting tool upside down with spindle in reverse ... cutting threads away from the chuck. My threads in a 1-inch Delrin rod looked like crap, but my first two attempts were good enough to engage with my 5/8 tapered pump threads and tighten up just fine. Many thanks, Joe, for a wonderful threading technique! (I'm a 73-year-old retired EE with a very nice man-cave shop in my back yard.)
Up side down thinking.. Brilliant sir ;)
I swear by, and stand by this technique. It works great.
You can go right side up with it in reverse and plunge in from the back side as well
I think this technique might have been invented downunder!
We spend a lot of time upside down! The Southern Hemisphere corriolus effect tends to make us think opposite to most of the world above the equator. 😜😂😂😉👍🇦🇺
To all my viewers. Please exercise caution and use good judgement when running a machine with a true screw on chuck. Excessive spindle load with the machine in reverse could potentially unscrew your chuck causing damage and personal injury. Refer to your operator or machine manual for safety suggestions. Cam lock or keyed and collared chucks are the safest to run in reverse. This demonstration is for reference only and should be used at your own discretion.
Joe Pieczynski Hey Joe any recommendations on a gun smithing lathe? I would really enjoy talking to you about some things I am young and green at this stuff!
I don't know enough about gun smithing to suggest one. You'd have to know about the biggest longest part you expect to hold, how you expect to hold it, and what type of feature you plan to cut, then start looking.
Joe Pieczynski hey mainly it would be secured in the headstock for threading the end of barrels and clambering the rifles in about the 20-28 inch range but is usually held near the headstock. I also would be interested in milling flutes into the barrels as well. Just wondering if like a grizzly gunsmith lathe is really any different than some of these other lathes
A grizzly is ultimately going to cause you potential headaches when you need super precision, check out south bend for the cheaper side, monarch ee if you want to spend some cash.
Joe Pieczynski very good I'll try it
Thanks Joe, My dad was a lifelong machinist. Almost exclusively a lathe operator. I always wanted to learn some of his immense knowledge, but sadly he had a stroke around the time that I could slow down enough to learn and has since passed. I was able to rebuild an old Clausing lathe with him and restore an old mill prior to his passing. I am trying to learn to make my own parts for the farm to pay tribute to my Dad. This trick will certainly make threading easier. I appreciate your videos.
Feel free to ask questions if you need to.
As far back as I can remember we had a D1-4 or 6 camlock chuck mount and was taught this technique. Never thought about a screw on chuck, no inserts, all hand ground HSS or high cobalt bits and certainly no internet. Retired now and looking for an old and not worn out Long and Shapely, nickname for Lodge and Shipley powerturn lathe to share some of those things I learned over the years. Saw a video on a bit height gauge and laughed, take a piece of brass shim stock, run the bit up to the part, insert shim, the angle of the shim tells you exactly how much to raise or lower the bit. If it's 90 degrees or just less, you're good to go. I made a 1.5 inch or about 90 angle, set on top of the bit and slide it to the shim, perfect every time.
Thanks for motivating me to put a lathe in my garage and do some videos myself before I forget everything I learned.
Hi Joe nice video I'm a machinist/toolmaker been single point threading in reverse for about 40yrs it's to bad young people don't want to learn this trade not sure how anything is going to be made in the future
I’m 16 and in high school and dual enrollment for welding, then my plan is get an associates in machining too. In my own welding classes I spend almost the whole class machining my own projects or parts for other people. There are some other people as interested in this field as I am but not many.
Well, I work in a small machine shop. We have one old engine lathe, an old mill, and a radial arm drill, as well as several CNC mills and lathes. Most items are made by CNC production these days. It's more about optimization of the machining program these days, to churn out as many parts in as short a time as possible. Crash prevention is mandatory!
Hi folks, one thing to watch out for, this method is great - if your lathe has the appropriate spindle bearings and does not have a screw on chuck.. You really need two opposed taper bearings because the cutting load is being applied away, not towards, the headstock. It would not be the best way of thread cutting on a Myford Instrument lathe for example. As the spindle is run in reverse a screw on chuck is in danger of being unscrewed. Again a problem on a Myford.
This is a valid safety concern and clearly spelled out in the video description.
I'm 64 years young and an old school machinist. I love your videos because I still learn new tricks from you. Unfortunatly these days, not many "machinists" have a clue about what your doing because of CNC's. One of the best CNC boys I know, looked at me running a Bridgeport and said "I wouldn't even know how to turn this on." Kinda a sad state of affairs. Keep doing what your doing Joe. Would love to work with you.
Old school manual skills are dying in this country. CNC and 3-D printers are taking over. Too bad.
I have a 1961 Sears Craftsman lathe... I thought I was the only one who flipped the tool so that I could cut away from the chuck. Started watching your videos the other day... on this one I found out you are only about an hour away. Nice. Greetings from Kyle, TX.
Great tip on loosening the tool post tension so the tool will lift out of the cut if needed, also for form tooling. Very interesting. Also, a nicely done instructional video. One thing would make it easier to watch: placing the camera on a tripod. Hand held is difficult to control, even more difficult to watch. Thanks for sharing!
Jim, Thanks for the feedback. Aside from my scuba diving equipment and diving videos, this is the first video I shot about machine shop related material. Sorry about the 'Blair Witch' effect with the hand held camera. I'll have to rig up some good camera holding stuff and go from there. Some of the other videos do have tripod shots inspired by other viewers. Thanks for watching.
Especially with that wide angle lens with so much barrel distortion.
GoPro
Thank you for posting the threading tip, very informative. The only thing that could make this video better is a tripod. 👍
I am shooting more with a tripod lately. It does make for better viewing. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks Joe !!! I've been a machinist for over 40 years and this is the first time I saw it done upside down...Very cool and I will try it today since I have some threads to run. Again thanks Preston T.
Let me know how you like it. Be sure to set a carriage stop for extra comfort. Naturally, thread away from it.
You are the first guy who single threads according to my intuition. But the trick I just learned is to turn the tool upside down to execute the cut. 10000👍
You need to be careful about spindle and lead screw direction. Some lathes have left hand screws and an odd pitch. I ran an older LeBlond lathe that had a 7 pitch screw that was left hand thread lead screw. It was a wonderful lathe for double lead threads. Even number on the dial for one thread lead and odd number for the other. I am glad you show checking pitch diameter with thread wires. I would suggest for a coarse thread move the compound 29.5 degrees toward the chuck. Good video.
ty
Joe, I'm still learning but I didn't see you use your compound to make the threads deeper. Did you do this because the material in the video was soft brass or could you also omit the compound if threading harder material? Thanks for the education Joe.
I usually just use the cross slide.
I had never heard of anyone doing this. I am an amateur with a metal lathe. This is the way threading needs to be taught. Thank you ever so much. Every machinest needs to watch your video!
Great videos for those of us that work with limited tooling. My lathe is nearly one hundred years old and I bought it from the scrap yard.
Hey.......anybody can do the job with quality tools. I takes a real craftsman to use whats available.
Hello Joe, also your carriage moves away from the swarf instead of over it and we all know what havoc brass can make in your slides. Thanks great video PS what lathe is that?
lostvikinga
Hi, That's a Colchester lathe, a long-bed Triumph 2000, I think. Nice solid machine. I've got the smaller Student model.
British engineering, sadly no more . . . .
@@steveallarton98 Hi there, it's fantastic to see that the conversation from this vid is still running 2 years after its launch. I had experience of the Colchester Triumph 2000 lathe during my apprenticeship in 1973. Our training establishment (Newcastle College) had two new 2000's among the older Student square-head lathes. I preferred to Student probably because I had more time on it and found it a delight to use, but the 2000 was an impressive machine. I now have a 51 vintage Boxford A and will try Joe's reverse threading technique next time I'm cutting a thread.
Also, this allows you to run at higher speeds which carbide likes
I wouldn't do this any other way.
I may have to try this to eliminate my corn cob threads. My old lathe had so much chatter that I could not improve any thread.
Thank you for this video, which is new to me. As a 70 year old hobbyist who learned to thread in the 1960's, the only reason I can see for this not being taught years ago is the prevalence of machines with threaded chucks. After seeing this, its the only logical way to go.
It is so fun to see a REAL machinist. Not only doing the work but, also doing the inspection. I was a quality inspector for years. I hate writing rejection reports. When a machinist hit dead nuts on a part on all dimensions I bought the guy a Coke. I made a big deal out of it. And the whole shop knew about the achievement. It was very effective and raised the quality of production. I still did the inspection from the guys who were of a quality mind. We all miss stuff from time to time. Inspecting a good part is a pure joy.
THANKS for this.Excellent method...barely explained...with horrible video. That's OK. You introduced something we ALL need to learn. Now, I'll go find someplace that teaches it better. THANKS AGAIN... AND PLEASE GET A TRIPOD.
Praised for the material and bashed for the presentation all in the same breath. Well done. How about read the video description before hitting the keyboard next time.
We rarely see what the Speedmouth Critics can produce. Maybe its smart just to turn off Comments and leave the moaners to stew.
Just found your channel and have subscribed. Thanks for sharing your experience. I do encourage you to place the camera in a stable holder, not free hand. Otherwise, it makes for a dizzy viewing experience. Understand you did not have the right gear then. Until next time, cheers. Daniel
Welcome. Thanks for signing up. I will be trying to use a stationary mount whenever possible.
Make something so that you can attach the camera to a magnetic dti stand then you can stick that wherever you want on the machine
Thanks Daniel. Welcome. I'll get better at the camera work. This was my first machining video. I think you'll find the more recent ones a bit better.
Great idea on the adapter for the camera to a mag base. I will do that.
What I like about Joe is he teaches out side the box. He goes beyond the text books. I’ve been watching for years but now I gotta subscribe! Thanks Joe. WH from Orinda, CA.
Your machine is so clean I feel like you don't use it but you definitely know what your doing. Props on your cleanliness and on the information.
Keeping it clean is easier than getting it clean. I'll have to shoot a video someday when they are trashed just to prove they get used.
This video relaxed my butt cheeks.
Glad i could help. Threading is actually easier when you aren't holding your breath.
Mine relaxed so much I almost had an accident.
@@cannonball666 sleeping when lathe was spinning ? Ah ah ah ( joking )
Good way for beginners to learn . If you use a live center , you would still have to stop the machine at the right time ,right ?
That depends on the size of the part and the size of the live center. The disengage zone would still be considerably larger and easier to hit. Look in your tool catalog for an extended live center. It helps.
My home machine shop HS53 today was the first time I used Joe's method. I threaded some parts I have made before. 3/8-24 thread. With the traditional way, 140 RPM was about as fast as I felt comfortable, no undercut to stop in.
With Joe's method, even using a standard live center, 270 RPM with ease. May be able to go one step up to, 370 RPM. But, even at 270. It was still a lot faster than the old way.
True but more forgiving
I belong to the Metro Detroit Metalworking Club. At our monthly meetings we usually watch a machining related video. A while back this video was featured and yesterday the situation popped up. I had to run a thread and when the tool cleared the work I would have .010 inches before I had to stop or crash into the part. Used this method to make 22 copies and every one worked out perfect with no accidents. Thank you for taking the time to show the method. It was a huge help.
Best advice ever for single point threading. I’ve witnessed too many people go toward the spindle and make costly mistakes. As an apprentice at the time I asked questions that where met with the “That’s how it’s done”, you want right handed threads you go towards the spindle.
Then in later years there was a more mature seasoned machinist that threaded away from the spindle. The question was asked why, and he explained in plain terms that it was safer for the person tooling and the equipment.
Joe, sorry if this is a dumb question but I read through most of the comments but didn't see this asked.
My lathe has the compound set somewhere between 29º and 30º, angled toward the chuck. similar to yours in the video.
If I were to flip and center my threading tool to cut away from the head, wouldn't I need to swivel the compound the other way to feed toward the tailstock to keep out all the slack on the leadscrews?
I don't know if my machine would be rigid enough to plunge straight in with the crossfeed.
I had the same question. I haven't seen it answered.
I cut threads traditionally with the 29 deg method, but have since adopted Joe's approach and just feed with the cross slide and use the inverted tool. It just seems to work - I do however use carbide inserts, so than may help.
Last weekend I made a height gauge for the lathe to recenter my tools like in Joe's other video, and flipped my threading insert while I was at it. I cut a 32 tpi thread inverted just plunging in with the crossfeed and other than I went slightly too deep, it looked perfect. Smooth, no tearing, and no clenched butt cheeks cutting away from the chuck!
yup, I've had a few threading jobs as of late and this inverted method is so awesome, my DTM holder (CA size) even has a pocket for the inverted insert - never really noticed it until I decided to try it.
I'm doing internal threads the same way with a boring bar/lay down insert style tool.
"If you half thread a 10 pitch thread you end up with a 20 pitch thread". I get what you're saying, but really you have a double lead 10 pitch thread :)
Your comment is accurate, but....I always thought if you had a double lead 10, the actual pitch was 5TPI x 2. I have only cut a few double lead threads ( intentionally ) in my entire career. Am I mistaken?
By double lead 10 I meant two 10 pitch threads intertwined with each other. 20 thread crests in one inch, but with the helix angle of 10. I guess I stated it wrong
I know I'm a year too late to this party, but the way I was taught is that the term "pitch" is independent of the number of leads. So a double lead 20 pitch thread would have a lead of 0.1" . Or you could say pitch is threads/inch and lead is how far a nut would travel/revolution= number of leads x inches/thread.
@@DavidTaylor-es1bt ....You say "pitch" is independent of the number of leads.... Actually, lead divided by number of "starts" equals pitch, so lead and pitch are interdependent, and generally, any screw can only have one lead. Lead, as you say later, is how far the appropriate nut would travel per revolution on a screw... (your statement sort of confirms what I'm saying?) Perhaps North American terminology differs, though.
When you're screwcutting, you're setting the machine for the "lead" irrespective of pitch, and achieving pitch by any of a number of forms of division for starts. Easiest way on the Colchester/Hardinge in the video is indexing via the camlocks for two or three starts, and few people ever need more than that... Actually, I've re-viewed the video, and since that's a Master, Student or equivalent, that advice would only work for three starts, the machine having only three camlocks... Larger machines have six, allowing two, three or six (unlikely) starts to be performed simply. Worth remembering that standard threading inserts may not have adequate side clearance for the extreme lead angle of a multistart thread. Guess how I know? (Just once, though!)
I was later to the party than you, too...
@@robertlawson8572
Fellas tho I'm late to comments I'll throw this out there.
Thread pitch is the distance from the root of one thread to the root of the next. It's does not matter how many leads a given thread has since the only way to cut a multiple lead thread is with all leads having the same pitch be it sae or metric.
A machinist handbook is a wonderful thing, as no one can possibly remember everything that's in there ! Well someone might but I doubt there would be more than three in the world , lol.
I used this technique in my advanced machining class and impressed the department head. He later recommended me for a job at a DOE National Laboratory. Many Thanks Joe.
I spent over 20 years as a machinist and did a lot of single pointing and saw a number of approaches but have never seen anything like what you demonstrated. I just got a home hobby shop set up and was anxious to give this a try. I love it! I got a great looking thread, no stress. I plunged to the minor diameter and used a dial indicator to position the carriage in the same starting point every time. Even though I did not use two wires to do the initial check I only went .001 deeper than the zero I set on the compound. This is really going to speed up my single point threading and make it really enjoyable.
Thanks for the comment. Its a bullet proof technique.
How can u do this and only cut with one edge I always get better results with one edge
Try it with the conventional compound setup and feed. But take the backlash out of your compound each time so the tool drag doesn't pull the tool deeper.
I'm not a fan of this trick... i've used it once with a boring bar for a particular metric tread. but the problem is you put the pressure now on the upside. (lifting the carriage). it will not look as easy with a tailstock setup and it can dammage and unscrew the chuck on some lathe like mine :)
hey Joe, I'm a old fart machining going on 40 years. .I also own a turning shop, so lathe is my specialty..and I watch a lot of youtube videos about machining tips...because after all the years we're still learning something. .just wanted to say your videos are the best..spoken plan and concise that a newby could understand what your demonstrating. .nice little Colchester. .Ted from Michigan
Thanks Ted.
"Ya Gotta Git The Idea" Fantastic.
The best, most informative videos I have seen, you are a natural teacher Joe.
I have tried to spread the gospel of upside down tooling myself, especially for parting off.
I literally spent hundreds of pounds on parting tools that lasted anything from Zero successful operations to less than a handful and they all ended with that sickening crunch bang sound that you realise is happening a nano second too late to be able to stop!
One day I read about inverting the tool in an old school book and gave it a try......I was instantly converted.
A couple of projects later and I was parting off 3" stainless right to the centre with HSS and no dramas, this wasnt a one off because I needed 4 discs 6mm thick, they were all done without even a re-grind of the tool.
I am a member of the facebook group UK MACHINING CZcams and have made friends locally with some fellas who are a good bunch as well as guys in the States and all over the world and I know the rest of the lads and lasses would love to have you come aboard. Tell em Billy Harrison sent you.
As for the camera work....way I figure it is that if you go to the trouble of making it then people should be less critical, it's not like you are charging.
Thanks Billy. Try that inverted tool trick next time you have to plunge a big form tool. Slow RPM and in you go. You'll be amazed at the results. Drop my name to your CZcams group and send me some people. The more guys I can reach, the better. Good comment on the troll by the way. Haters should just move on. Thanks for your support.
" Haters should just move on" - it didn't sound like hate to me. Think of it as a suggestion (feedback) . But I agree with them - hand held shooting is puke inducing. You probably realized this yourself. But otherwise you would not likely have many subscribes or even views.
Bob, My reply to Billy was in reference to a comment he made on an entirely different video. I appreciate your reply. If you read the video description on this one, you'll clearly see I do realize its shaky. Its also the first machining video I ever shot.
Couldn't agree more with you on the safety issue. You don't have to be an OCHA-Nazi to use common horse sense.
You used wedding rings as an example. Very early in my working life, I was a witness to a chap who had his finger pulled off by a drilling machine, on account of wearing his wedding band.
I can vouch to the fact, that this was a very, very nasty experience for all involved (especially for him, dah...).
I never understood why, after it was pointed out to you, why you would persist in dangerous behaviour. When in my homeshop I always use safety gear, safety shoes, safety specs, gloves when appropriate etc.
None of this stuff is overly expensive these days, not even the certified gear is prohibitively expensive, so there is no excuse.
After more than 3 decades in industry, I have seen my share of horrid accidents, some resulting in maiming,a few resulting in death.
And it is always the same sort of reason that lies at the base of these things. "Familiarity breads contempt" !
The person thinks because he has been doing a certain job or operating a certain machine for a period of time, it holds no surprises for him and he is master of the machine....
That attitude can only be described as "powerful stupid".
If it can hurt or kill you, sooner or later it will ! The only defence against that is using your noggin, don't rush (regardless what the clipboard warriors tell you!) and use safety equipment where it seems a good idea to do so....
Cheers!
Paddy
If you're around rotating machines just leave the gloves off.
Im going to have to call BS on the straight in plunging of the tool for each pass. The tool will be cutting on both sides of the point and the trailing edge will be moving away from the work and tearing not cutting. This might work for hacking or quick and dirty but not really a good method to practice.
Cut with the compound on the angle of the thread and set the X or cross-slide to 0 when you first touch-off. After each pass retract the X , move to Z 0 then X 0 then advance the compound (on the angle) the amount of the next pass - repeat until finished.
I disagree with this comment at about the 99.8 % level. The material to tool impact is still straight down. If the thread you were cutting was 1 turn in 3 inches, maybe your observation would matter. Maybe. Otherwise plunge threading is a perfectly acceptable method on machinery rigid enough to do so. Faster too. For what its worth, you should remove that high speed milling video on your channel since its not even close to real high speed milling. Look it up online. Ingersol-Rand uses high speed cameras to view the machining process since the machining is so fast, the naked eye can't process it fast enough. Loose the rubber gloves too.
When I was new and 'green' to the world of machining threads, I was all fingers and thumbs with the wire method so I came u p with the simplest thing that stopped me dropping the damn things and wasted time from machining practice and that was to put the three wires into a cork, then you can offer them up with one hand and mic in the other. 55yrs on I still do this, it just became a habit and as they say 'Old habits die hard'. Still the best single point threading video on you tube Joe, a pity schools don't teach this!
The day I fully figured out single point threading I felt like making a youtube video myself... simmer down sparky... there’s a lot more techniques out in the world that will accomplish the same job. Yet, I’ve only been doing this for 5 years lol. There’s so much more to learn. Every day.
Please, please, please get a tripod under the camera and use it. I really enjoy the contents of your videos, but sometimes cannot finish watching because I get dizzy from the constant movement of the camera in short, jerky motions. Maybe a second camera would help with the switches in viewpoint? Keep up the videos though. Thanks.
This was my first machining video ever. 5 years ago. At that time I never intended to have a machining channel and this was done in one take. I would hope you would agree they have improved.
@@joepie221 Sorry, I should have looked at the date first! Subsequent videos are definitely better and enjoyably educational. Keep it up!
HaHaHa, As I am self taught. Nobody ever told me what to do, or what not to do. I thought that is how you where supposed to cut a thread. Isn't that why I have a reverse button. Dam I can't imagine trying to cut a thread any other way.
OLDMAN I learned how to single point thread out of a textbook. It said to cut righthand threads in a Z- direction, towards the chuck. I tried the method in Joe's video today. I will never use the textbook method again. LOL
OLDMAN what a coincided fuck ?
OLDMAN no one gives a fuck what you learned,especially when you are old as dirt😂😂😂😂
did you invert the cutting tool though??
Hey Don - be sure to let us know when you get your first clue.
Thumbs up for the safety message ... Plunge cut threading with a tweak on the cross slide for the win.
Again a very handy way of cutting threads. My Sheldon Lathe will like it here in Bavaria Germany. My lathe came from the USA army Ordonnance Depot Mannheim built 1952.
That's GENIUS! And so DUH common sense obvious I'm positively LIVID with myself for not thinking of it on my own! Thank you for teaching me!
Joe.. I owe you a beer or 10 Mate . I have been using this system for the last few months now and I have saved myself a fortune in carbide threading tips. It is faster because you can run the machine faster, which in turn gives a better looking thread as well as the carbide is cutting closer to its preferred SFM. Not to mention the pucker factor having been totally eliminated from threading totally. I LOVE IT. Thanks again
If I ever bump into you at a pub, I'll take you up on that offer. I am glad you tried it and like it. Thanks for watching.
I subscribed quite a while ago. I watched this video - I now only thread away from the chuck. This is the best threading method I have used. Thanks Joe for this and many other great practical ideas from your videos. Mal
Thanks for the long time support Mal. Much appreciated.
I haven't cut a thread on a lathe for many years, but was intrigued by the title when I was looking for something else. Really interesting. Thank you.
I broke too many inserts to count last night threading O1 drill rod and finished on my last one... I just found this and you, Joe, are going to save me time, money, and my voice from yelling up a storm with this method. I'm going to rig things up for your method tonight and try it out.
Come back and let us know how things went.
Joe ! It's really nice to watch a craftsman at work , I'm a old retired Machanist an was great watching your lessons , hope the younger hands learn from a journeyman.
Thanks. I hope so too.
i did this years ago as a trick, always figured old timers would make fun of me for it! i thread OUT! MAKES SENSE! thx for the video.
Awesome tip Joe. I've been machining for roughly 25 years and just learned something today. Thanks!!!
Hi Joe, I finally had a need to single-point an odd ball thread and I remembered your video and it was FANTASTIC. Thanks so much
Glad it helped
Great job, I never liked threading towards the chuck. I run CNC lathes now but I'm about to retire and plan to get a manual lathe and a small mill just to tinker with and I will definitely use this Idea. Brilliant.
i also use pitch wires often...but usually go a couple grand under chart size..the chart size works good in a perfect world..I've never had a problem someone complaining about the hundreds of threads i have single pointed..keep up the good work my friend
Hi Ted. I have run a considerable amount of threads for military and aerospace applications and when they say 3A or 3B, man...they really mean it. Root, crest, PD, minor...they check everything on a comparator and ding ya if anything is off. It was overkill, but great practice. Lots of faceplate work on valve bodies too. A nice low side class 2 fit on a round part is a beautiful thing.
I never thought about this way to cut threads. Absolutely brilliant...now I know why I subscribed to your channel. This channel is gold for tips and trick regarding machining.
Thanks Joe. I did some threading on a Clausing Colchester lathe, other times, on a big VDF lathe. Most of my lathe work was on a Hardinge chucker, with the threading attachment. We used the wires gauges too. I did internal threads, as well as external, we never used to call them A and B. I did learn a lot there, everything from lathe, to jig bore, to tool grinding. It was a nice clean fully equipped shop, it’s just too bad that my boss was a jerk (putting it nicely) and the owner wouldn’t reign him in. That shop couldn’t keep a decent machinist as we left 2 and 3 at a time. Seeing your shop reminds me of those days!
I Like It.... after years of threading the old way just tried your method, no more crashes or panic. many thanks Joe, never too old to learn
Um, this just changed my life! After almost having a heart attack threading my NIMS project, this is GOLDEN! Thank you for the awesome tip!!!!
I bet you never go back to the old way.
When others and I were apprentices with the Royal Navy nearly 70 years ago we did not only use the cross slide to feed the cut as this makes the tool cuts on two sides of the thread. We used the compound swivel slide at the right angle of the thread selected so that one would move parallel to one side and only cut one side of the thread. Seemed to be less punishing on the ears!! We used this technique you shown and when we wanted to make long pitch threads on wooden shafts we drove the lead screw. Good old days before the Dockyards closed.