Resin Printers vs. FDM Printers | What Should You Buy?
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- There are some great SLA printer offers available for the holidays, and some of these printers are actually going out of stock! The below amazon links are NOT promotional links:
Anycubic Photon Mono 4K - including some extra tools - www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Monoc...
Anycubic Wash & Cure (2 sizes) - www.amazon.com/dp/B083GTS8XJ
Anycubic Photon Mono 4K + Wash & Cure Bundle - www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Photo...
Anycubic Photon M3 - A bigger, better, brand new model for only a little extra - www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Print...
Elegoo Mars 3 & Wash & Cure Station - www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Printer...
Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K - www.amazon.com/Phrozen-Monoch...
Flashforge 4K 3D Printer (Has lower reviews than I was expecting) - www.amazon.com/Flashforge-Fot...
NEWEST BRAVE SUN STL KICKSTARTER CAMPAIGN:
kickstarter.com/projects/blit...
Thanks for watching! - Hry
I just got my first SLA printer. It's the Anycubic photon 4k mono. I started many years ago with the ebay chinese special DIY AnetA8 (hahaha) I've torn down and rebuilt that printer more times than I can imagine, and I probably have amassed enough replacement parts for it to rebuild it another 3 or 4 times over again. I've printed all sorts of junk from engines, clips, stuff for the house, things for my car, garage, gifts, tons of fidget toys, clocks and wall decorations, but I'm kinda done with that. I'm glad I came upon this channel, and I'll go ahead and sub to stay updated ^_^ One of my good college buddies had also just invited me into his DND group, so that's another reason why I picked up the Pho4K with intent to up the DND experience for the whole group.
Glad to hear that! Having a reliable printer makes a huge difference. More videos coming soon, thanks for being here!
Please do not use Latex gloves! They allow some chemicals in the resin to pass right thru. They are also not rated for use with IPA. Use Nitrile gloves instead as they are far superior in chemical resistance.
Thank you! There have been a lot of comments about safety! Maybe I'll do some research and do a whole video with the top safety tips for resin printing!
Simple answer.
Both!
I started with resin, which is the best hands down for mini's, no ifs no buts. The trouble with resin and large parts is the warping and manitaining straight edges and accurate angles.
I have had Anycubic anbd Elegoo resin printers, Anycubic have a better build plate system IMO, 4 bolts rather than a ball head. But the Mars 3 is amazing, even with the ball head. One thing to bear in mind is a large 4k screen wont give you as good resoloutions as a smaller 4k screen. But as the author said, 2k/4k you need a magnifiying glass to see the difference if your printer is set up well.
I would also say have double the ammount of IPA you think you need, if you have a wash station for example have 5l that you are using and 5l that you are letting the gunk settle down before you resue it. There is no good, fast way to recyle dirty IPA, but if you have time all you need is gravity. Let your dirty IPA sit for a week and all the resin will sink to the bottom, syphon off the clean IPA annd swap it with your current IPA and repeat.
Terrain, and anything real world and functional parts filament is the way to go.
I bought a Neptune 3 Plus a couple of weeks ago and it worked out of the box, took about an hour to put together but its been perfect.
Yeah think for terrain and big chassis (like Fellblade and such) an FDM is pry the way to go
Super helpful video!!!!
Thank you Triston!
And if you got the money and you want to print statues get the peopoly phenom. I love mine and keep it running 24 hours a day 7 days a week . I went that large because the other printers limited how large i could print about 6 to 7 inches tall now i can print up to 16 to 30 inches tall and more (unlimited). This art form (hobby) is so addictive its all i want to do. You are right resin is so much more easier and better detailed than fdm but like i say use what makes you comfortable. Happy creating...........
Fdm has been nothing but a headache for me no matter what I do still bad prints on voxelab Aquila X2 driving me mad so going to try resin printer soon plus the resin ones seem far better
great review! I'm still torn on whether i want to get any of the anycubic resin printers or if i want to get the new Elegoo Saturn 8K. I wanna make action figures for my kids and even small helmets and costume stuff for us. I already have the Anycubic Kobra Max and i really like the experience i've had with it so far.
Do you have any thoughts?
I have just gotten the anycibic photon d2. It seems to be the best overall printer on the market. It's on sale now for $600 to 800 I believe on Amazon. Its a dlp printer, so according to anycubic should last 20,000 hours, which is 10x longer than most screens. Competitive print volume. I am currently print halo ground command minis, and it seems to be doing the job well
Firstly let it be known I'm not a pro and this is mostly opinion! Lol.
What's nice about lcd and dlp printers is that they don't have a lot of moving parts, so they all tend to do a pretty great job if you're using quality resin and maintaining the printer. I barely notice a difference with 2k vs 4k, let alone 8k. The only time you'd need 8k is if it's a big printer with a big screen.
That being said, you'll want to consider the build volume of the printer since resin printers tend to have smaller build sizes. You can always print in parts, but I wouldn't usually recommend printing functional parts like helmets or costume parts with resin since they won't be as durable. I personally would prefer to use the Kobra Max for stuff like that.
Action figures? Yeah you could totally use one of the Anycubic printers or the Saturn for that! You could even use a uv resin that has a bit of flexibility so the figures won't break easily.
Dlp SCREENS last longer, but that doesn't mean other parts won't eventually need replacing, and the printer will still need regular maintenance. Changing an LCD screen on an anycubic printer is easy and pretty cheap, I prefer to stick with LCD printers.
Hope this helps 😂
Most resin is pretty brittle, even the ABS-like unless you want to spend silly money on Syria tech tough, and anything wearable IS going to break. For kids helmets and cosplay stuff I would go down the filament printer route.
I couldnt focus once i noticed you didnt remove the blue film from your cure station.... I did the same thing when i first got mine. There is a reflective mirror like side under that blue film.
Yeah I have since taken it off, thanks for the heads up 😂
I'm looking to print mechanical parts. Polycarbonate, nylon and ABS. While I've never done the 3D printing thing, I have a strong background in automation such as PLCs, servo drives, etc. Are the SLAs a good fit for these materials?
By materials you're saying you want to print with polycarbonate, nylon, and ABS? From my understanding those are all going to be printed with FDM printers like the Creality Ender 3!
FDM printers extrude molten material layer by layer until the print is complete. I've seen people print with wood filament, PLA, ABS, nylon, polycarbonate, and more. These kinds of printers and materials tend to be better for functional parts.
Hope this helps 👍
SLA printing is great but printing in scale you are limited unless you want to spend thousands. Also, for the money of a good SLA printer you could buy a Bambu labs printer which printers incredibly fast compared to resin.
Resin just have a great finish but full of waste material and slow. Also when working with resin it's very important to use a respirator whilst handling resin and especially sanding! That stuff is dangerous.
But I agree SLA all the way for miniatures and statues.
I totally agree with regard to sanding. Sanded UV resin is definitely something you don't want to inhale!
Hi! Honestly from the video i do not know as someone whos starting, which kind of printer use for figures. Fdm or sla? Any hint please? Honestly i do not have plenty of time and also have family. I would like to have it as hobby and make some diablo figures or wow and so on.
Hi sorry I missed this comment! Honestly you could go either way. I prefer resin printers since they provide much more detail for miniatures and gaming.
FDM printers usually are better for printing larger objects that don't need as much fine detail.
Thanks, homie.
I’m thinking of getting into 3d printing for model railroading. What software do you use to design? I use a Mac.
I use Blender which is free! I use some paid addons, I'm sure you could find some to help you with model railroading.
Thank you!
both FDM and SLA
The Bambu Lab X1 Carbon now prints at .08 layer height and everyone I show my prints to think they are resin....game changer! Oh and no stupid chemicals. I AM interested in resin printing but the X1 Carbon prints so fast and so smooth I just don't know if it's worth it.
That's awesome! Looks like an expensive printer. I've never dealt with higher end FDM printers but I love the workflow of resin printers more than FDM. Less motors generally means less maintenance and room for mechanical error, but like I said, never dealt with the higher end machines before 🤷♂️
@@blitzgamingstudiosIk this comment is 9 months old. but now Bambu Labs has an amazing deal for their Stripped down printer. It has the same speed and quality specs but it’s not as fancy. For 550(black friday) it’s an incredible bottle
@@baby_efa Six months on from your comment. The Bambu A1 Mini prints miniatures at near resin quality (lookup the profile settings from "Tomb of 3d Printed Horrors) and can be had for $249. The build volume is 180x180x180mm which is perfect for printing minis and most terrain.
Which would you recommend for printing custom action figure parts/accessories, or custom sculpts for art dolls
If you're going for detail, especially for art pieces, I'd personally go with the Anycubic Photon Mono 4k or the Elegoo Mars 4k. There are better ones out there, but I'm cheap and these get the job done very well. I just got a Photon Mono 4K for Christmas, they put out great detail for a low cost.
Standard resin can be brittle if you're printing really thin parts, but you can counter this with other kinds of resin, some printer resins are actually rubbery and bendable and good for toys and action figures. You can even mix them with standard resin to end up with a strong yet bendable plastic product.
Hope that helps!
@Blitz Gaming it does very much. I'm entirely new to 3d printing and so once I get a better laptop that can handle 3d sculpting programs, as well as handle bauldurs gate 3, Then I plan on getting that elegoo combo along with a drawing pad thing so I can use the 3d sculpting easier
Awesome, good luck! Let me know how it goes 👍
Anycubic Photon D2 DLP tops all of them.
About twice the price but yeah I'm sure that's a great one. 👍
@@blitzgamingstudios twice the price but lasts 10x longer than lcd.
That’s the one I bought. Also have a photon max coming in.
I am new to the 3D printer scene. Incredible Video. It looks like i want to go Resin. What is the best Software to use for a newbie. I have a working knowledge of 3D for Engineering (20+ Years), but no home model building use. Can you please help?
I use Blender, which is free. It's a little hard to work with on its own, but there are great addons available in the community that help a lot.
When it comes to slicing the models for resin printing, I highly recommend Lychee slicer 👌
Hope that helps!
@@blitzgamingstudios Thank you so much for responding so quickly.
The biggest concern is resin fumes, for others in the house and working directly with it.
Totally understandable. You can always use Anycubic Eco UV Resin, which is made from soybean oil with no VOCs, no BPA, and it complies with the EN 71-3:2013 safety standard.
It is a little different to print with, I found I had to slow down my printer a tiny bit and not expose them to alchohol for cleaning too long (because it can deform the print). Other than that, great stuff 👌
@@blitzgamingstudios you should really be using a respirator when working with resin. from what i read online, a cloth mask like in 4:00 is NOT enough to protect yourself. the fumes can literally cause cancer.
Thanks @@VD-cc4hx but I disagree. As long as you're working in a well ventilated area and wearing a face covering, especially with UV resin from trusted sources that are made with safety in mind, such as Anycubic's resin, it's not something to worry about excessively. 👌
@@blitzgamingstudios happened across this. The issue isn't with safety, it's with long-term health, as in years. You need to wear a respirator with organic vapor cartridges. You can pull up the SDS for the resin and view it's long term exposure effects. I'm researching 3d printing as a potential hobby to take up, but I also work at a chemical plant. Short term? Yeah, you'll be fine. Long term working with it all the time? Whooolllleee lotta people out there that worked in resin facilities prior to modern safety precautions that now have various forms of cancer.
@@JeremyB8419 the resin bottle tells you what safety equipment you need have yet to come across any with an label saying you need an respirator. granted my print does sit within an enclosure that have an ventilation system that vents it outside.
0:13 which device did u printing these toys with?
Pretty much all of the models in the middle and left side were printed with the Anycubic Photon Mono.
A few of the Pokemon were printed with an Ender 3 and then painted, but most of the little pokemon are just store-bought toys. 👍
0:13 was stock footage from marketing. Looks CG'ed.
resin vs fdm reminds me of terminator movie haha.
So , whats a best printer you recocmend ?
I would recommend as a starting printer the Anycubic Photon Mono 4k or Elegoo Mars 3 4k. They are easy to use, great quality but still very affordable. You'll still need some other accessories, so go check out my newest video for accessory recommendations! Links are in the description of that video. Hope that helps 😄
If you're looking for something a bit nicer I'd look into Phrozen Sonic Mini or Mighty 8k. I hear nothing but good things about Phrozen printers.
How much time take printer to make dental models
Hi prakash! The longest print I've ever done took about 7 hours. For a dental implant I'm guessing it would be around 4 hours, but that depends a bit on your settings. I'm not experienced with dental resins!
Part 2 please
Coming very soon!
Psst 🤔Your curing machine reflector plate still has the protective plastic on it
Thanks I was kinda wondering why it was blue back when I opened it 😂
You should not use latex gloves with resin printing...Buy nitrile gloves instead...There are many posts about this online.
Appreciate the info! I havent had any issues using latex so far but I'm now reading about the benefits of Nitrile.
Looks like they are more chemical resistant, so probably a good call. Luckily with 3D printing and even while cleaning prints, there shouldn't be much exposure to the actual resin on the skin or hands, the gloves are more of a just-in-case measure 😂👍
Oh God, please no Latex gloves, you Nitrile, otherwise you skin will have an intimiate relation with the resin, IPA and possibly dissolved latex. Also the plastic scraper is not for scraping off resin in the vat. In fact you should never scrap anything from your FEP filter ever. To clean your vat, just use a screen detection/light up option for a few minutes, this creates a solid layer of resin at the bottom that catches all the print fails and other contaminates. Then pour out your resin and just strip the entire layer with everything else by pushing it gently from below with your fingers. No damage, no wear, no cloudy filter.
I stopped using filters for resin as the method catches all the small bits as well. As for pliers, never used those, use more and lighter supports, and after cleaning use hot water for softening the parts and supports.
And another edit, I recommend a fully enclosed mask with filters, it fully filters out the smell and most importantly the fumes, as well as offers you eye protection. Resin in your eye is not fun. Ask me how I know ._.
Nice video, but the title is definitely not what the video is, it highlights what resin printers have as features, and having all from CR10 to a photon mono X, nope SLA is an absolute mess and not for everyone if the ultra resolution is not needed
Enders are trash. They ship with parts that are guaranteed to brake after weeks or months.
Yeah the extruder parts on my Ender 3 V2 broke literally within like a month. I had to order metal replacements.
@@blitzgamingstudios That's my point with them. The company can afford to use those metal parts off the bat and maintain a better reputation for quality! 🤷
I have had zero problems with my 3 S1. It gets almost daily use between my gaming prints and my wife's school manipulatives she has me print.
@@borewyrm Good for you. However, all I read on fb groups are 95% of the time Ender problems. The s1 seems to be ok so far but the standard 3 pro's abd such are enough to put new commers off the hobby. You don't expect to be an electrical engineer to use a printer, the same as you don't excpect to be a qualified mechanic to drive a car!
My friend had his for like 3 days and the bed ended up having issues, one of the ball screws wobbles a lot more than the other side, bed wouldn’t level properly and heat was inconsistent.