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Hi @DOOMSDAY187, this video was focused more so on the cleaning process. I could do another video focused on settings if that would help!

Safety First: Before you start, ensure you're wearing gloves and eye protection to avoid contact with resin, which can be irritating or harmful. Unplug the Printer: Always make sure the printer is powered off and unplugged to avoid any risk of electrical shock or damage to the device. Softening the Resin: If you suspect that resin has cured around the edges of the screen: Use a hairdryer to gently warm the edges of the screen. The heat can make the resin more pliable and easier to clean off. Apply isopropyl alcohol (91% or higher) with a cotton swab around the edges to dissolve any hardened resin. Allow it to sit for a few minutes to soften the resin effectively. Gently Pry the Screen: Instead of using any metal tools, opt for a plastic spudger or a guitar pick. These tools are less likely to scratch or damage the screen or the printer's frame. Start at one corner of the screen and insert the plastic tool. Gently work your way around the edge, prying up slowly and carefully. If the screen doesn't budge, apply more heat and alcohol as needed to further soften the resin. Check for Hidden Screws or Clips: Make sure there are no additional fasteners or clips holding the screen in place. Some models might have screws or clips that need to be removed or released before the screen can be taken out. Consult the Manual: Refer to your printer's user manual for any specific instructions or diagrams that show how to remove the screen. This can provide model-specific advice that might be crucial for avoiding damage. Patience is Key: This process can be delicate, so it’s important to take your time and not force the screen out, which could damage both the screen and the printer. If after all these steps the screen still doesn't come out, it might be necessary to reach out to the customer support for your printer. They can provide guidance specific to your model, which might be essential if the screen assembly is different from typical setups or if there are other factors at play.

No worries, it's honestly a great question! #1 is that even after those baths, the model itself is still not fully cured. I use the curing machine to finish the curing process. You can also set it by a window and turn it occasionally, but I find have a curing machine is really helpful. You can cure it before or after removing the supports, but I prefer to remove the supports first so that the UV light from the curing machine gets the whole model better as it isn't blocked by the supports. #2 sometimes I am anxious to get the supports off so I don't wait for the alcohol to evaporate, so it's probably best to wear gloves if it's still wet with the alcohol. 🤷‍♂

@@blitzgamingstudios got you, so basically not safe to touch after the cleaning, but only after curing, got it. Got the gktwo bundle and this helps a lot for my first print. Thanks again!

Also maybe consider turning on the "Thanks" feature. Tried to say thanks with a few bucks but didn't see the option. Appreciate your help!

I'll have to try that!

Thank you, very proud 💪

Sleepless nights and poopy diapers

sperm 3D printed pixelated cells

This was actually printed with a resin printer! Printer: Anycubic Photon Mono 4k. Resin: Sunlu Plant-Based Grey

Thank you so much! 😄

That must have been a long 3D print. . .

Hey @rickmoreno6858 It sounds like you are using an FDM printer if your talking about using tips. (By FDM I mean it extruded filament one layer at a time to 3D print.) If so, you might need to find a different video if these supports aren't working. This video was more so for resin printing. Otherwise, the thing with using only light supports is that they wobble and break easier, but they're easier to remove. They also don't hold the model in place as well as needed. I like to use some mediums in the places that seem to need the most support or where the most weight would be, and then add lights everywhere else. That way it holds things in place, and the light supports make sure the details are supported. Hope that helps! (You CAN use these types of supports for FDM printing, you just would want to increase the tip size of the supports, and maybe the thickness of the supports.)

👍

It's a lot of fun! Want some help?

@@blitzgamingstudios yeah definitely!

@@appleseedtrees7512 Great! Come join us on Discord! blitzgaming.us/discord

I guess so 😂

LOL I have NEVER heard anyone call him toaster 😂😂😂

That's incredible 😂 Must have been a wild ride

You make a good point about the facial hair, I never would have thought about that 😂

Thanks for your comment! :) VOCs from 3D printer resin can actually be neutralized pretty well by activated carbon, so if you have the right air filter, it can definitely help! Good ventilation is always a good idea, though, even with a filter.

@@blitzgamingstudios that is false information. It can NOT be neutralized by those filters

Thank you so much!

It's a great question! If the model is not hollowed, the 3D printer's UV screen cures the entire layer, every layer. That includes the "inside" if the model. So if you printed a big solid block that is not hollow, you'd have a big solid block that is cured all the way through. If it was set to hollow in Lychee (or another slicer), the inside would not cure based on how hollow you set it. In this case you want to add a hole so liquid resin doesn't get trapped inside. Even then, it still can be hard to cure resin inside a hollowed model, so some people use tiny little UV lights that can go inside the model. I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any more questions 👍 and good luck with your printer, it's a lot of fun!

Amen!

Thank you! Quite proud :')

I've been thinking of redoing this tutorial (since it's so long) to show how to use the "fast" way more effectively. I've tried a few different slicers but Lychee is the best I have seen so far for resin 🤷‍♂️

​@@blitzgamingstudiosappreciate the time you took to do this. Just starting with resin, so this is a big help. Will definitely give Lychee a try, thank you!!

If you use the “project supports” feature you can knock this out in like 2 minutes.

Sounds like a pretty solid method! 🤘

What slicer are you using? Is it Lychee? You can make the support connection smaller so that it doesn't leave such a big hole! I usually do .3 millimeter connections in most areas

Yes.. Im useing Lychee too. wo where is the support connections setting? @@blitzgamingstudios

Interesting, I haven't been told this before. I'm interested to know why you think so! I'm still always learning.

Overcuring might result in brittle prints, I tend to cure mine for about 45s tops. I print in ABS-like Tough resin because of the flexibility, expose them for more than 50s and the prints become rigid and loose most flexibility@@blitzgamingstudios