My Resin 3D Printing Workflow (It's easy & Mess-Free)
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2024
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▼ Wash & Cure Machines (Affiliate Links*):
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I bought my extra Anycubic Buckets on Aliexpress.com
*As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases - Jak na to + styl
Instead of the plastic scraper, i recommend using a silicone one (for cooking), so you dont scratch the FEP. And Nitril gloves, resin goes through latex ones
Went to your future videos and glad to see you got yourself a proper respirator!
"Without scratching the built plate" Dude that plate is scratched beyond repair 😄 Thanks for the tutorial
Looks like a pretty nice workflow but if you’re worried about your health you should really be wearing a respirator mask. Those papery polypropylene masks won’t stop you from breathing in the resin fumes at all. (Even though they sometimes are sent with resin printers) If you can smell resin, you’re not protected. And you won’t see the affects until you’re a couple years down the road.
Thanks I'll look into it!
@@blitzgamingstudios i came here to comment this, its really important... a respiratator means you smell nothing 99% of the time.
Here to add another +1 to you absolutely needing a respirator.
You specifically need to look into filters like 3M P100 Respirator Cartridge/Filter 60926. The filters must be able to handle organic solvent fumes.
@@geuis thank you that helps!
This is why I'm holding out on Resin until confirmed safer... It is extraordinary tech... but the chemicals
Even plastic scrapers will still scratch the FEP. The best option would be a silicone scraper. You can get some 2 part silicone from Smooth On, mix up a small amount and then dip the plastic scraper to get a nice smooth silicone skin onto the scraper. Any scratches or smudges on the FEP will scatter the light and effect the quality of the prints. As far as the cleaning goes, I always use a soft brush in the "dirty" bath stage to loosen the resin. I've found that rinsing alone does not break up the resin enough for a full clean. Just my 2 cents.
I scratched my first FEP with my plastic scraper. I would not recommend doing what we see in this video, especially if you're a beginner.
There are some really nice silicone spatulas available as well. I've been using them to stir and agitate my resin for the past two years and I'm still on my like-new original FEP(s).
So detailed, and you actually talk about safely handling resin! So many beginners are touching resin bare handed and throwing away uncured resin...I have definitely never done that. Small channel to small channel, keep it up!
Great video! Looking foward to the next video about suports!
Get a respirator, wear nitril gloves, latex doesn't stop resin. Don't touch the parts of the gloves with which you touched resin with your bare hands (Get them off by your wrist, not by your fingers). Don't touch the paper towel that you used to clean your scraper with your bare hands. Don't use a plastic scraper for your fep, use a silicone spatula. Don't use a butter knife to get your prints off the plate, use a plastic razor. Other than that, great video. I'm especially thankful that you included a part about disposal of water-washable resin. People just touch this stuff and pour it down the drain as it it was dish soap.
Thinking of getting into resin printing. (Currently print FDM) this is the most informative video I’ve watched so far in my research, and has definitely made resin printing more appealing.
I'm really glad to hear it! I was avoiding resin printers for over a year but I'm really glad I got into it 👍
Great video. I need to improve my workflow for resin.
Im still learning and your vids are great. One thing I've seen is that if you soak them in warm water before removing the excess it makes it more brittle and less likely to damage anything.
For such a small channel you have amazing quality!
That is so nice thank you so much!
Very well explaind. Thanks for the tipps
You're very welcome! More to come 😄
hi - hope you know that your partikel mask doesnt filter organic solvent or resin fumes whatsoever! Since resinprinting is so easy anyone rushes into making tutorials! Good job of trying to reduce the messiness when handling chemicals, but you apparently missed out on a few key things regarding ppe!
Amazing video!!
Thank you so much!
Denatured alcohol is superior IMO to iso. Cheaper, lasts longer and does a better job of cleaning the models. Doesn’t evaporate quite as fast but I blow mine off compressed air so really isn’t an issue.
I'll have to try that!
i have the exact same printer and wash & cure station, just a little tip the wash and cure station lid/cover fits over the printer lid, it saves alot of space
Remember, I'm not an 3D printing expert!
If you have additional tips and tricks for 3D printing, leave a comment! 👍
If you can get a silicone spatula it will work much better at avoiding damaging the fep than the plastic scraper they provide with the printers. You can get decent cheap one at a local dollar store.
I do a first clean in a dirty bath and a second clean in a clean bath, with the clean IPA becoming the dirty IPA when needed, but I also spray an ounce of new IPA onto the part and build plate straight out of the printer to remove most of the uncured resin before it contaminates the dirty bath, and I spray the part coming out of the clean bath with new IPA to remove any residue from the clean bath. The IPA dripping off the part from the printer is discarded as it has a very high resin content. The IPA sprayed on the clean part just before air drying and post cure is allowed to drip back into clean IPA tank. I basically use a sprayer and two tanks to do a four step cleaning process.
Sounds like a pretty solid method! 🤘
I picked up the mono 4k 3 weeks ago for a first it's amazing but needed a second so just caught the end of the mono 2 promotion sale so got.that the other day amd the upgrade difference is amazing! What a fantastic printer! I got a free wash cure so it's a spare the whole package for £199, we'll happy! Definitely need a second or maybe the 3rd will be the new m5s lol
*new addiction unlocked*
Yeah just got a saturn 2 8k last week lol 😂😂 got 3 now in the space of 2 months but found the monos just on the to small side for doing 1.35 / 1.10 / 1.4 models at but that mono 2 I have to say it is absolutely beautiful for printing! You do see quite a difference between 4k and mono 2 the build plate is more a beginner size aswell I think for anyone new in the hobby should start with the mono 2 the size is perfect for smaller stuff the difference in size of build plates is quite something! Then the saturn 2 when that came damb it's heavy boi! Lol fit the monos in the red cover it's huge! I never have my 4k on now just the mono 2 amd saturn 2 but it's there incase need it! I had all 3 going to build a Batman statue the other day makes a difference in 1 day printing to say 2 or 3 days of printing 😂
Cant beat a pre-wash for saving IPA. I would look at getting a cheap sillicone baking spatula for mixing resin in the vat, much softer than the plastic scraper.
also people say leave your IPA in the sun to recycle it, I would STRONGLY disagree. Let your dirty bath settle in the dark for a week then syphon off the clean IPA then cure the sludge in the sun. You end up with far less gloopy gel and much more clean clear IPA. If you want to filter it, use extra fine cooks cheese cloths (several layers) rather than coffee filters.
I do a bit of a and b, I take the resin filter it down with a coffee filter, and take out the slime, then will take that into clear-ish container and literally let the whole thing sit in the sun, and cure. Once it is done I am left with IPA on top, that is murky, but not as nasty as it started, from there you can vapor distill it back to cleaner IPA, but I just re-use that as my Dirty wash. IPA used to be a bigger expense till we worked that out, now I buy maybe one pack of IPA bottles every 2-3 months, but again I am doing volume and we run a store. So, all things considered I am getting 1,000's of printed parts per batch of IPA.
New subscriber. Great video!
Thank you so much! Do you own a resin printer?
@@blitzgamingstudios Long answer: Elegoo Mars and Saturn 2. FDM - Prusa Mini and MK3S, Custom 320mm x 320mm x 400mm CoreXY, plus a few other FDM's, as well as a few subtractive machines and laser cutter. Short answer: Yes I do. 😀
Wow you're in deep 😂 💰💰💰 no going back now!
Have you running the alcohol through a coffee or other filter to extend the dirty bath alcohol? I see a lot of residue and this may help. There's also some great medical filters in various microns.
Thank you for mentioning the printer, do you have a mid-level printer you recommend? I'm definitely diving into your videos as I'm very interested in getting started with prints.
I have done this. It's just time consuming and kinda gross to me so I just evaporate the whole dirty bath when it's time to rotate to a new clean bath 😂
Pre-supporting can be awful. As someone who does this as a profession I can only advise one thing. Don't trust pre-supports (i mean if you know what you are doing grand, but otherwise it can be nightmarish, we hand support everything). Nice video, we do a lot of work flow videos on supporting styles, as such. ALSO, don't use that plastic tool. I learned that a while ago, they can actually cause micro scrapes that you won't see. Use a silicone spatula, your process is fine, but the plastic scrapper is bad. We love the 4K's too BTW we have a bunch of them and they are work-horse printers. You also take an extra step most users don't, the extra wash is a good step to get a cleaner result. Nice video thanks for sharing. I do 5-10 builds at a time usually so I have two wash n cure's running each cycle. Cure about 1-5 mins if standard, or standard+, if you are using DLP or Craftsman resin you can cure longer for bigger items too. Good tips all around.
Thanks for sharing! 😄
Pre-supported models also means you'll struggle to scale the model up or down in size.
how do you dispose of the dirty bath IPA? Ive been avoiding resin printers as I feel like I'll be an environmental disaster.
Great question. Some people like to filter it with coffee filters or other types of filters.
I personally prefer to just evaporate the alcohol by leaving it out in the sun, which leaves behind only the leftover resin. Watch a couple videos on it, but if resin is cured, it can be thrown away with regular trash. Otherwise you'd want to dispose of it like other types of hazardous waste by taking it to someone who accepts such waste. Hope that helps. 👍
🔥🔥🔥
so ive been having a few certain issues after i bought my mono 4k, 2 weeks ago.
Main problem im having is that the circular details are always warping/drooping to towards the build plate side. it isnt the warping that happens from naturally with uv resin and ive been calibrating and printing some TMC models and ive tried quite a few things and their discord tried helping me out but im at my wits end. ive got confidence that the temp, humid, and supports arent the issue and ive pretty much got exposure and layer height setting down but i still dont really understand the lift height settings in chitubox as there are two places to input your lift heights. Any potential input you have for me about this situation?
also im pretty sure the build plate is hitting the stopper and making a buzzing noise for half a second once it gets to 0 or home on the first layer. should i be concerned or ask for a refund?
thanks in advance sir, your workflow is clean and your prints fill me with jealousy.
I'm sorry to hear you're having this issue! It can be frustrating when you try a lot of things and nothing seems to work. That's how I feel with my creality FDM printers.
My first suggestion is going to be to try Lychee Slicer. It's free, there is a paid version but it's not really necessary unless you're selling professional presupported designs. I used to use Chitubox, but I feel Lychee is a bit more intuitive and creates better supports. I've had more success with it.
Lychee also uses multiple numbers for lift height, I think it's a new thing supported by the Mono 4k compared to the Mono 2k. My understanding of it is that they're basically a 1st and 2nd stage, allowing you to control acceleration between the two values. So you could set the first one low so it will slowly lift to that height, then accelerate to the next height. It's just a way to control acceleration to save print time, but you might be best off just using the same height for both values until you get it working the way you want it to. My lift height is usually 6mm or 7mm (depends on how old the FEP is because they start to stretch and require a slightly higher lift height).
Adjusting lift speed may also help. I tend to add a lot more supports than what I see other people do (because I'd rather get a successful print than try to save a few cents on resin) and I go for a slower lift speed (1.5mm/s) and slightly higher exposure time (Right now I'm doing 2.7 seconds although the default was 2 seconds. Makes the actual model a bit tougher as it prints.)
Most of my supports for smaller prints such as starships use lots of supports with .3mm tip diameter, with some .5mm tip diameter supports spread throughout to hold it steady. The biggest issue I had with learning to print with resin was learning how to support properly, such as adding some supports on the sides just to hold the print in place to prevent warping. The model pulls pretty hard off the FEP sometimes, causing the model to move and pull different directions.
Other than that, usually these printers shouldn't require a lot of fine tuning. Check out Lychee, try some community settings for the printer that show high success rates (you'll understand once you get into Lychee, you can see what settings work for other people using the program), support the crap out of the model, and if it still doesn't work I think it's likely there's a defect and Anycubic should be able to help you out. Hope that helps. Let me know how it goes! 👍
If you give the model another bath after curing solves the "sticky problem". During curing its kinda like the model sweats out uncured resin, this is the stickiness you can feel after curing. A final wash solves this
Great video dude thank you! Question though, so if you cleaned the model in 3 different baths, why do you have to still wear gloves for the part where you're removing the supports? (brand new to resin printing so forgive the noob question)
No worries, it's honestly a great question!
#1 is that even after those baths, the model itself is still not fully cured. I use the curing machine to finish the curing process. You can also set it by a window and turn it occasionally, but I find have a curing machine is really helpful. You can cure it before or after removing the supports, but I prefer to remove the supports first so that the UV light from the curing machine gets the whole model better as it isn't blocked by the supports.
#2 sometimes I am anxious to get the supports off so I don't wait for the alcohol to evaporate, so it's probably best to wear gloves if it's still wet with the alcohol.
🤷♂
@@blitzgamingstudios got you, so basically not safe to touch after the cleaning, but only after curing, got it.
Got the gktwo bundle and this helps a lot for my first print. Thanks again!
Also maybe consider turning on the "Thanks" feature. Tried to say thanks with a few bucks but didn't see the option. Appreciate your help!
Hey Blitz question for you based on your set up. Noticed you have sunlight coming in from the window. Does that impact your workflow at all? I was under the impression that you can't let the resin have any UV exposure but I am sure in your room you have indirect light hitting your bed while you are setting prints up. Do you ever notice a difference? Thanks!
Such a great question! I literally don't worry about it, lol. I don't leave the resin or vats out without the UV cover (the standard yellow cover for the printer) for extended periods of time, but that's pretty much it. It may have a slight affect on the durability of prints but not to any degree that seems it warrants excessive worry.
If you were printing functional pieces that need to follow exact dimensions, I could see it being more necessary to avoid any light contact with the resin.
Hope that helps! 👌
very nice and also instead of the cloth use just the blue papper auto rags .
would you recommend getting the wash & cure machine when starting out?
I absolutely would. If you go without it, you'll probably still have to create some kind of janky setup for curing at the very least.
And it's nice to have at least one bucket that's perfectly sized for the build plate along with the wire metal holder for it.
Can't imagine how much worse the experience would have been starting out without these.
Shouldn't you use the rubbing alcohol with the toothbrush?
I made a resin pump. Wayyy less mess. I just use the pump to suck out the resin and then clean it with a microfiber cloth if i am using different resins. Like you said two buckets are ideal. Anyone interested in making the pump message me and ill send you the build.
still waiting on the in depth support video 😢
PLEASE wear saftey goggles when working with resin. if it splashes and gets into you eyes, itll be a seriously bad time. also the cloth mask isnt going give you any protection against the chemical fumes.
+ buy mask with carbon filter
Goggle's ?? 😂😂 Too much..just tooooo much 🤦♂️
@@livelongandprosper70better to be safe than sorry man
@@livelongandprosper70so gloves because you don’t want it on your hands. But who needs eyeballs right?
I’ve resin printed for years and eye protection has saved me several times.
For real. I gasped when he said to wear a mask and was wearing some paper thing…
TFW I thought that alcohol that goes into the washing tubs is an consumable and you're supposed to replace it after every wash.
Dont forget good ventilation and to always wear eye protection. If you are wearing that type of mask it doesn't protect you from fumes, but does protect you from a splash of resin.
Standard safety for resin should be Googles, a 3m mask with filter that protects against organic vapors (if you dont have a dedicated ventilation system this is more important), and gloves (nitrile not latex).
For curing old gloves and paper towels -> get a clear container and leave it outside and mix the contents around every now and than. Throw it out every now and than after leaving it in the sun for a week or so.
If you want to be extra safe you can get a UV lamp and put a clear cover on the container. The UV light shinning through the clear plastic container should fast cure everything. (including gloves)
the n95 or surgical mask is also a particel filter mask that wont filter out the solvent fumes
@@TheZahnputz which is why good ventilation is so important. Best system I've found for solvent fumes is keeping the printer and washing station in a grow tent with a inline fan venting out a window.
The negative pressure in the tent keep the fumes away. But if you have the tent open (like when you are removing prints and processing them) its good to put on full PPE.
Best mask you can get is a 3m with a filter that specifically filters out organic vapors
I pre-wash in simple green. It's much cheaper than alcohol and using a 5 gallon bucket with only 1 gallon of cleaner in it I vigorously spin the build plate back and forth like a washing machine for at least 30 seconds. This removes 99% of resin. I then go to my Phrozen wash & cure and finish the parts. Using the simple green is cheap and saves me a lot of alcohol.
I hadn't heard of this! That's great, thanks for the advice 👌
I used to use simple green but was irritated by the slimy film it left on parts. Half the time I had to just rinse with ipa anyway. Do you have this issue?
I use a heat gun to speed up the drying process
so no mention on settings???
Hi @DOOMSDAY187, this video was focused more so on the cleaning process. I could do another video focused on settings if that would help!
A paper or cloth mask like at 3:03 isn't remotely sufficient for resin. You *need* a respirator with activated carbon filters rated for VOCs. Also don't forget eye protection. Resin in your eyes can *blind you!*
👍
brother that is not the kind of mask you need. you need a respirator that will filter out organic vapours - the rating is P100. it protects against fumes and mists.
please wear a mask with a2 clas. ffp2 mask is not helping in any way against the resin or ipa, cause its fume. ffp2 is only helping for rasping the resin after printing.
just saw its not an ffp2 mask your wearing. if you do rasping it after printing get that also. cause of dust in loung.
Argh!!! Don’t use the plastic scraper on the FEP!
1) You are using a wrong mask. You need real respirator, not those cotton mask.
2) Resin + carpet floor is a terrible idea.
Use a silicon scraper, that mask doesnt do anything to stop VOCs so might as well remove it and get a good voc ventilator to use, are you doing this without eye protection? Truly? You only need to get s drop in there once. And you are doing this over carpet??? This whole video has given me so much anxiety.
I've had a lot of great comments on this video giving safety tips and I'm planning on doing a full safety video soon. Thanks for the heads up :)
Your mask is inadequate.
Please wear goggles, resin is a splash hazard
You are overcuring thos mfs
Interesting, I haven't been told this before. I'm interested to know why you think so! I'm still always learning.
Overcuring might result in brittle prints, I tend to cure mine for about 45s tops. I print in ABS-like Tough resin because of the flexibility, expose them for more than 50s and the prints become rigid and loose most flexibility@@blitzgamingstudios
Still too much work. lol
Lol, fair enough 😂 it's not for everyone
Hard to take someone seriously when they can't even pronounce Lychee 🤦♂️ does he even know it's a fruit??
I've heard it pronounced both ways. Never even seen one in person 🤷♂️