S&B Silicone Body Mounts for 08-16 Ford Super Duty Crew Cab
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- Body Mount Kit for 2008-2016 Ford Super Duty Crew Cab 5.4L, 6.2L, 6.4L, 6.7L, 6.8L
These bushings offer great vibration isolation and will not crack or breakdown like the OEM foam or rubber bushings. Also comes with corrosion resistant coated steel cups and bolts.
Part Number: 81-1003
For more information: www.sbfilters.com/body-mounts... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
2012 F350 Crew Cab - My experience on the install - 1) Heat up each bolt prior to removal with a torch for 1 minute. 2) Be prepared to workout your arms - take your time and just keep pulling the socket/break-over around. 3) I used a bottle jack with a 4x4 piece of wood situated under the cab edge to lift the cab. 4) Some of the lower pieces may seem a little stubborn coming out. Hit it a few times with a mini sledgehammer and prying and wiggling it. Soon, it will just fall loose. 5) When you go to install the new bolts, if you meet heavy resistance early on, there's probably some residual Loctite left from the previous bolts still in the threads of the cage nuts. Back the new bolt back out and you probably see a small amount of the Loctite dust fall out. Tap the bottom side of the new mount and little more may dislodge. The bolt going back in should not be as hard to get installed. It doesn't just spin in - but you'll know when it's time to torque it. 6) Do not use an impact to install either (just like on the removal). 7) Recheck your torques after you've driven it around a bit (on the same day so as to not disturb the Loctite setting up). 8) I did not find the front ones any more difficult than the others. Just heat the bolts as I stated in #1. I managed the job in 4 hours, taking my time.
Hello James,
Thank you for the detailed experience you had with the body mount installation this will be very helpful to customers that are needing this assistance.
#3 was very helpful thank you.
Just just installed the mounts on a 2011 Ford F350 this morning. Used a Venom HP induction heater, heating the bolts up and letting the heat work its way up to the blue loctite. Half a minute, another half a minute for it to transfer heat, then a 30-in breaker bar. All of them came out no problem. The installation was as described.
Holy crap. You don't realize how much better the ride can be until you put these things in! I figure I was riding around frame-on for probably six to eight months before I noticed the misalignment in body panels and some clunking when I was backing out of the driveway. I was quoted $1,800 for the installation, that's with me supplying the S&B mounts. The Venom HP was about $530 bucks, and it took me about 3 hours total.
Very knowledgeable and helped me mentally prepare for what I have to do thank you
Just installed these on my 2013 F250 KR. Installation was easy as long you take your time and use a torch to heat the bolts before you remove them. Used a floor jack and a 2x6 maybe a couple feet long to jack up the body one side at a time. These mounts are very good quality and make a world of difference in the ride. They are expensive but you will not regret spending the extra money for these.
Where are you lifting the cab up at? And did you just heat the head of the bolts up?
@tommybragalone7943 Just on the floor outside of the frame. It doesn't take much to get it high enough to remove the top bushings. I did focus more around the bolt head but I'm sure the flame got the surrounding area of the bushing warm. If it starts to get tight when backing the bolt out, then just give a few turns back in then heat and continue backing it out. You may have a repeat that a few times.
I just put these mounts on my 2011 F350 Crew cab long bed. It was creaking and knocking whenever I would hit a bump. I am blow away with the change! Smooth and quiet now. Now bumps, no creaks, no knocks. Feels better than new. I heated up each bolt for 1 minute with a propane torch and used hand tools instead of impact wrench. Didn't want to risk the nut in the cab breaking loose. Had zero trouble. Great video! Jacked up each side with a floor jack and a 2x6. Easiest thing I have done to the truck to date!
Does the silicone squeak over time??
I just purchased a set of you’re body mounts. Started with the furthest forward driver side mount heated it and after about 5 times of ratcheting broke the castle nut. Very discouraging but after seeing your video saying this is the hardest one to reach I’ll hit it again next weekend.
mapp torch is your friend on this one - im doing mine tomorrow, wish me luck lol
Great video , about to purchase your product , this level of support creates customers. Thanks guys I will let you know how it goes…Murphy hates me soooo 😂
Very good and informative video. Good job young man!
He’s not young. He’s 47
I should have shown this to the body shop I hired to install these for me on my 2013 crew cab F-350. The shop owner said he knew how to do it. Then he sprayed the outside of the old mounts with PB blaster and hit them all with an impact. Then when he spun all the cage nuts and made the issue worse, he blamed the truck as being rusty, although there's zero rust on the truck. He said he'd have to completely remove the interior and cut holes in the floor and weld the nuts inside to get the bolts out. You'd think a body shop would know what a cage nut is, or be familiar with this process.
How much is a job like this?
impact works fine if you heat the captive nuts with a torch. just did mine in a rusty 07 no problem.
Not very often a cab has to come off in a body shop. At the same time, if you don’t know what you’re doing don’t agree to taking on the work when in reality you’ve never done the job. There really isn’t an excuse for a body shop to screw it up though. They have access to more tools then you do and the same service manuals as a dealer. Worst case scenario there is always CZcams.
Just installed these on my 2011 F250 crew cab. Do yourself a favor - take the grille and headlights off. It’s not too hard. Don’t have to remove the radiator. If you encounter trouble with the front bolts, you’ll have easy access to the cage nut so you can put a backer wrench on it. If you take it off ahead of time, the bottom screw on the headlights can be accessed with a skinny extension - Once you start removing bolts, the front bumper can shift in the way and become a PITA. Also you won’t be tempted to just go Hulk mode on the bolt and screw up your cage nut.
Heating the bolts with a torch is a must. I did one side without, because I didn’t want to go buy more MAP gas. I fought every bolt with a breaker bar the entire length of the very long bolts and broke one cage nut (the front one, of course). On the side I heated, I was able to use a ratchet after a little work with the breaker bar. Much easier.
Excellent video, can't believe my ford body are this bad already.
Does anyone know if these help at all with the flexing between the cab and bed on uneven grounds?
If you heat the nuts instead of the bolts, you can use an impact. access to front mount by taking push pin out of rubber flap on each side of radiator. Reheat nut when installing new mount fo you get the proper torque. Blue loctite is great for keeping bolts in place but it needs heat when romoving and installing. Access to center nut is a rubber plug under carpet near the brake pedal. Rear mount nut access is behind drivers seat under carpet. Every video I have watched says heat the bolt head. head is 4 to 5 inches from where the loctite is. Heat the nut and save time and hard work.
Please don't use an impact, you won't be saving any time if you strip threads or spin a cage nut!
@@SBFilters Not if you heat the nuts instead of the bolts. The bolts are only torqued to 80 ft. lbs. They spin out with ease if you heat the nuts. BTDT.
Genius. This is just the tip I was looking for. Thank you, sir.
These are not available for an 04 quad cab for some reason
So... anyone have any tips getting to the cage nut for the forward position under the engine?
I have same lift in my garage. Did you use your lift to lift the truck body? If so, did you use the drop bars to lift or some other point location ?
How did you lift the cab to put the upper mounts in? I didn’t see that in the video?
Did you have to disconnect anything under the hood?
Will these work on 2017-2019?
Do you guy offer international shipping I'm located in Guadalajara Jalisco Mexico province Zapopan
I had mine installed by the local Ford dealer. Everything went smoothly except for the part about the length of the bolts. I wasn't there to observe but the mechanic indicated that the body was lowered onto the chassis, he still could not get the shorter bolts to start in 6 of the 8 positions. The bolts included in the kit are all 4.4 inches but 6 of the original bolts are 5.5 inches. The shop ended up having to do a local purchase to obtain the longer bolts to complete the job. Even though the bolt length issue is mentioned in the video I don't understand why the kit just doesn't include the longer bolts in the first place. I'm happy with the improved ride though, it's no Cadillac but it's certainly an improvement over the ride with the worn out original body mounts.
Thanks for your review and I'm sorry they had to go buy bolts. With the weight of the cab on the mounts and after starting the easy to reach bolts, the bolts are able to reach.
Ford uses the long bolts for the foam mounts which have a taller uncompressed height than the rubber ones they use and our silicone mounts
Yes, I understand now about the bolts after watching another self install video. It now makes sense to me about the shorter bolts because of lower height of the new mounts. The ride is definitely improved but I'm also now hearing a lot of squeaks that I never heard before. Will that go away as the new mounts wear in?
@@paularthur8055 if you can pinpoint the squeaks to the mounts, call us. We spent years in R&D to make sure there are no noises after install
The squeaks seem to have subsided, particularly after I towed my 5th wheel camper. I suppose the extra weight helped properly seat the body mounts. Thanks for following up!
Do they work on 2017-2019?
Taking headlight off a 2012 did not access the forward bolt head
What's the price for the kit?
Well heck if you spun the cage nut with a breaker bar screw it I'm sending it with the impact
Why did you not show the cab lifting procedure? That's the most important part.
Exactly
Liability
Apparently they don't get notifications of posts on the video.....I thought this was the most important part and he did such a great job up until skipping this important detail.....ughh
How about spraying the cage nuts up front with penetrating oil?
Won't make a difference as the old locktite will not allow the oil the generate and you would have to tear apart the truck to get to the nuts. If your truck is a northern rust bucket, you might be spinning them all anyway, but no use doing more work if you don't have to.
Are the cage nuts all 22mm?? I just purchased your crew cab kit and of course the last one spun, and it's the front bumper. Got 7 out of 8 installed and it's so much better.
Thanks for supporting us. You're correct it's 22mm.
@@SBFilters Thanks for the quick response. I should add your order to shipping is incredible. From order placed to delivery was 2 days to S. Florida. Awesome work. Ty..
Do you have to loosen the steering column before you raise the truck? Was told you have too?
no
Disassemble the inside of the truck get all the french fries out from under the seat heat the top of the bolts for 60 seconds and then get under the truck and Juice them out with your impact gun. You'll have no sweat on your forehead like this guy
Do you have to loosen the steering column before you raise the truck? Was told you had too.
Do you guys have it in the future for an F150 kit?
Do they?
I just bought mounts for my F450 with the intention of installing them myself. However; the note in the box says do not install at home. Only have a certified tech perform the installation or the warranty will be void. I think this is false advertising because are showing how to install at home without a lift. The instructions says only use a lift.
Legal disclaimer.
Dude you're in the IE? Where about?
@@sbfilters5998 I am looking into whether or not my truck needs this repair done.
Ford should be ashamed of themselves for continuing use of those body mounts over the years. Pay $75-100k for a truck, you should receive better quality than this. Thanks S&B for a great alternative!
That is what I told the dealer today.
Thanks for saying so, my ford truck has many problems all the time.
Never heard of a body mount that you can’t use a impact on I used a impact on mine and before I watched any videos
Hello,
We highly recommend using a ratchet or breaker bar instead of an impact. That way you will not damage the threads or break the steel cups.
You got lucky.
@@dicky7600 why will they actually break?
@@mc67bolts54 Using an impact usually will cause the cage that encases the nut to widen or snap, thus allowing the nut to turn with the bolt. If that happens you have to take some of the carpet out and perhaps remove the rear seat to access the nut from the top. Ford recommends that you not use an impact as well, so they must know about their shitty design. I use a breaker bar to get them off, takes about 15 minutes per bolt in the rust belt. Not fun. I have never seen a bolt break.
@@dicky7600 ok thanks for the insight on it this is my first truck and it needs to rubbers bc they “evaporated”lol
As for the core support bushings, totally wrong. Dont take the headlight out. Requires removing the grille. You can reach the nuts on the top without removing anything extra.