Wood Finish Shootout! Which Woodworking Finish is the BEST?
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- čas přidán 20. 10. 2022
- What wood finishes are the best ones to use for woodworking projects? I bought a bunch and tested them, comparing their application and final appearance. So basically I conducted a wood finish shootout! The results of the shootout were interesting…
I tested the following wood finishes:
• Watco Teak Oil Finish
• Watco Tung Oil Finish
• Watco Wipe-On Poly
• Watco Lacquer
• Bulls Eye Shellac
• Varathane Water Based Polyurethane
I know some people will say that I didn’t do a finish justice because I’m supposed to add this and subtract that, apply it while standing upside down with one leg up. Perhaps that would make the finish amazing. But for my test, I wanted to apply it as directed on the can.
My wood finish shootout results are subjective. They are my opinion. It’s okay to disagree and I hope you do your own tests to see for yourself what finish works best for you.
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Here’s a list of tools and materials that I used to make this project. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
•• Tools & Materials ••
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/newtonmakes
Teak Oil Finish: amzn.to/3SQvfwN
Tung Oil Finish: amzn.to/3TD4Wu3
Wipe-On Poly: amzn.to/3COoSTW
Lacquer: amzn.to/3s7ebqv
Shellac: amzn.to/3DbAQs3
Water Based Poly: amzn.to/3sa9eNS - Jak na to + styl
you should add just some common pine as sooooooo many people use it for crafts or for small projects.
Agreed. I use it for most of my hobby stuff. It would have been nice to see
From my experience, it would have had the same effect on pine as it did on maple. The oils would be a bit more saturated and yellow compared to the poly or lacquer.
@@NewtonMakes a video on finishing box store pine projects would be awesome. Showing differences and talking about what to use for indoors and outdoors. Spray versus wipe on. Sanding. Sealer. All the different things. Finishing is where I get stuck. Just can’t ever find a hood all around video on it that I can stand listening to the person.
Great job. Thank you.
Thank you, very useful video
I am so glad you made this video. I never had good luck with water based poly, this confirms my gut feeling.
Great comparison and evaluation, Billy. You've given an old man something new to consider. As I said before, I never top trying to learn (even at 73).
Bill
Definitely have found this same kind of result. I like water based poly only as a top coat, as it adds a ton of durability to certain pieces that need it and doesn't distort the finish much if applied over something else.
Right and that's why I specifically mentioned how this could be a good top coat but it's not advertised that way. At least we can all figure out the best way to make things work for us.
The water finish reminds me why I build my own coffee table 9 years ago, as that was the only look you could buy. The finish I used was some kind of mix between wax and oil. As the white-ish wax can go into the softer parts and the oil can get in to the harder parts of the wood, it emphasizes the grain a lot, something I really like, sadly the local stores stopped selling it.
I have been using pure tung oil recently and really like the results. I’ve used the water based poly from time to time but only as a topcoat. My wife can’t tolerate the smell of oil based poly.
Water based is good if you want to seal color tints
Thanks for the video. 👍
Excellent testing, Billy! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It was a fun little test. I'm glad I did it.
My go-to are Danish oil and spray lacquer
I wanted to use Danish oil in this test however my store only had walnut stain Danish oil.
@@NewtonMakes I like the natural. My general rule of thumb is "Is this item going to be used, or displayed? If used, lacquer. Displayed, DO.
Thank you.
The water based instead of oil because I don’t want the pissed yellow tint on my project. Thanks for the upload.
Great review. You speak the truth.
Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Nice comparison. I have watched many of your box build videos and several times you used the OSMO topoil product. Any comment on where it would fit into your comparison? I have used it on a variety of hardwood and baltic birch boxes and I am very happy with the results. It does slightly yellow maple. I believe it is a mix of wax and poly. Also a big fan of shellac. If done right it makes for an amazingly smooth finish.
Excellent experiment, so many finishes out there, I prefer the wipe on and buff off types. So easy to do and you still get amazing results
An oil that gave me the color of the poly would be terrific. Oils are so easy to apply.
@@NewtonMakes I think Danish oil doesn't overly darken lighter woods like maple or ash. Another easy to use oil.
I make whatever a customer wants, for along time to get a dull finish I had to use waxes that didn’t offer much protection but now with all the water based finishes there are I now have a great solution for that problem 😆
I use water poly but I always stain before , I like how fast it drys and easy clean-up but the teak oil has my interest and I may invest in a small can . I agree with Woodworker on common pine.
I agree about the stain and then water based poly. That's my go to.
One thing you didn't mention when discussing the results of the tung and teak oils is the sheen. I'm assuming it is a result of the tung oil using 2 coats vs the 1 coat of teak but as you move the samples back and forth you can see a noticeable sheen on the tung oil pieces whereas the teak samples are a bit more satin.
You should take all the pieces and make like a board to put up in the shop, just so you have a visual reference on how certain finishes look on certain woods
Teak oil formula can vary depending on the manufacturer, but generally it is made of tung oil + linseed oil, that's why you can't see much difference between teak oil and tung or linseed oil
Please do test on some pine also please a common wood 👍
Hey man great video! IMO I really like danish oil if I want a oil finish. I actually really love that brand of laqucer however, I dilute it 5 to 1 and it comes out amazing when I spray it HVLP!
Lacquer is great. I wanted to show what happens if you simply do it as directed. Not as great.
@@NewtonMakes Totally agree!
The water-based finish just looked a wee bit cloudy - it obscured the grain a little without adding any tone. I don't mind a clear finish, but I definitely don't want to mute the grain, if I'm going that way. Thanks for the demo!
Right. If I was making a maple item and didn't want to show off the grain then maybe a water finish would work.
Water based finishes are like using water color paint vs oil based paint. Generally, one is for kids and one is for adults (Trix are for kids!)
Lol, my boy was nice and high after all those finishes.
You mention how they look in comparison to each other but how do they compare with protection or what would you use one or the other for in some circumstances?
Film finishes like poly, lacquer, and shellac are more durable than oil finishes. It's a personal decision on which one to use unless it is a specific situation such as kitchen cabinets. Probably don't want an oil finish on those.
Tried various water based lacquer/poly finishers for ease of use but was never satisfied with the look of the finish. I do use teak oil for outdoor teak patio furniture although it needs reapplying very two or three years. For most other furniture type wood projects I like pre-cat lacquer/varnishes for their durability.
Those are great finishes to use from my experience.
When you started brushing on the lacquer with a what looked like a cheap chip brush and not thinning it, I cringed so hard. Lacquer looks amazing but I do agreed that it’s finicky and not very forgiving. But thinning the first few layers (most thinning first coat and less which each coat) has given me the best results. And using a high quality brush and sometimes roller. If it’s a big surface I roll it on then “tip it off” with the brush. And “tipping off” is one of the techniques I highly recommend to use regardless of if you roll or brush on the lacquer. To do it you take the brush at basically 90 degrees to the surface and take light full strokes for your final pass of that area. Also make sure to tip off before it starts to set so work in sections and once you’ve tipped it then try not to go back since over working will also create those bubbles and ridges.
Thanks for this video by the way. Iv been thinking of trying tung oil but just haven’t gotten around to it yet. This video is making me more eager to get some for my next few projects.
I have had good luck with Deft spray lacquer for small projects like dice trays and boxes.
Believe me, I was cringing too. I've used lacquer a lot. But applying it as directed...not a good process.
@@NewtonMakes I agree and think that there is not enough info for application on most brush on lacquers I've used. I personally wish a lot of the tips a tricks iv picked up over the years where on the product application labels. I hated lacquer and spar varnish when I first started using it. But because it was for work and what my boss wanted me to use I had to learn. Super thankful for CZcams and the internet in general at that time.
I think your description for "Poly" and "water" are really the same, Polyurethanes. One is "Oil" based the other "water" based. One benefit to that water based of course is the lack of amber hue that oil based applies. I know you said you like the look of the oil based, the problem is you don't always want that, for example on a work bench. Water also cleans up easier and dries quicker.
How do these compare to Osmo in your opinion?
Good question. The color is slightly more saturated than poly but not as much as oil. At least on my projects.
I bought some Watco tung oil once and it turned red when it dried.
I use an oil based poly on all my boxes. I thin it down about half and half with thinner.
I make my boxes out of tree limbs I find everywhere. I cut them into 3/4" lumber to use on them. The thinned oil base poly seems to soak into the wood better so there is no warping. It shows the beauty of the wood better too.
Your explanation is very clear... Thanks for sharing...!!!
Greetings from Uruguay...!!!
PS: Excuse my Google-English...!!!
Thanks for watching. Hopefully this information helps you in the future. Have a great day!
Was the "poly vs water" meaning oil base poly vs water based poly?
It's not necessary oil based, but both are polys. The MSDS will show you what's truly in the product.
Why do you promote HD?
Why didn't you listen to what I said before the test?
@@NewtonMakes You said that HD is not a sponsor. Even more puzzling why you would proote them.
You might want to have a doctor look at your fingernails. This is not a joke or a troll.
Any comments or opinions on the video? You want pretty nails? Maybe woodwork isn't for you, my man!
@@geoffriggins The comment was not directed at you nor was it about "pretty" nails. He has clubbing of the nails which is an indicator of congestive heart failure. It can be treated so he won't die.
Your comment was not directed at me but mine IS directed at you. What makes you feel like any of that is YOUR business?? Do you know him? His family? His medical history? Move around!! No one has time for this.