Why is my DeLorean stalling at stop signs?
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- My DeLorean was stalling when I'd come to a stop. I quickly found that the oxygen sensor had gone bad, so I dealt with that first. But it still stalled. Who would have thought a throttle position sensor could cause so much trouble?
Detailed information about my troubles replacing the oxygen sensor can be found on my site at www.tmproductions.com/repairs...
Visit www.tmproductions.com for more of Joe's Projects!
Timestamps:
00:00 Intro
00:25 Not a Stock DeLorean
00:59 Why Does the DeLorean Have an Oxygen Sensor?
02:48 Super Easy
03:06 An Inconvenience
04:47 The Real Cause of the Stalling
06:13 The Fix
07:06 Closing
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Very well produced and informative! About to go check out your other videos. You definitely gained a subscriber! Keep up the good work
Thanks! I did most of this work before I started making the videos, so I'm personally disappointed that I didn't have video from the actual repair to show, but I think it came out pretty well. I'm recording everything I do going forward, so future videos should be better still. And thanks for the sub!
Great video, Joe!
Happen to me too, timing jumped a tooth
I had stalling issues at stop lights in my auto DeLorean too. I however only had them happen after I installed Dave McKeen's ECU (which effectively is just a homebrew version of a modified ECU that allows for different idle RPMs) The thing I only came across almost 2 years later was that the TINYINEST of vacuum leaks was causing the ECU to basically drop the RPMs to the point it would kill the car. There was a small chance it would bounce back before the car killed itself, but it was almost like someone throwing a ball to you in gym class as a kid, and having it slip from your hands, only to catch it clumsily just before it would hit the ground. 😂
Dave's stuff is great! Although I had to get rid of most of mine when I switched to the 3.0L engine, since they're specific to the 2.8L.
I probably do have a vacuum leak getting ready to be a problem. To mate the 3.0L to the stock hoses I needed to use a series of adaptors, and one of them was already pretty poor quality. The outer shell is cracking, but the inner hose still seems to be good.
Still, it wouldn't surprise me to find that there is a small vacuum leak somewhere. I should go over the system, just to be sure. It might also explain some very rare stalls when I come to a stop or slow way down -- nothing as bad as the idle issue in this video, but definitely annoying when it does happen. It's just so rare that it's hard to reproduce and diagnose. Thanks!
@@joeangellx If your young and broke like me (or at least one of the two 😂), you can grab yourself some $1 cheap cigars, attach them to a harbor freight hand pump and funnel it into the intake.
A good way to do an at home smoke test to see any vacuum leaks. Just be sure not to get your DeLorean on a smoking addiction.
PS: I got myself a BambuLabs X1 Carbon 3D printer to reproduce some parts for the car. Can confirm ASA is the best. I used it for a 4x6 bank fuse box to extend the fuses from the 3x6 OEM setup. Also added vent holes to prevent it from melting. Next step to tackle is Lucas wiring plugs.. might try them in Nylon.
@@MasonFowlkesKenneth One DMC owner I know did a carb conversion to fix a high idle problem, and while the motor was half apart discovered that one of the vacuum lines wasn't even connected. Plugged it back in and it ran fine, but since they still decided to finish converting to carbs. It feels like going backwards to me, but I get it -- a lot of people just want their car to work, and K-Jet is a bit of a pain.
In the past I did a more elaborate smoke test, but I haven't tried one recently. I got a cheap smoke machine on Amazon and hooked the output into a hose to the vacuum system, and put the whole thing in a box to contain the smoke. It either didn't work or there weren't any leaks, but it was before I did the 3.0L swap, so I should probably do another vacuum test. The cigars and a hand pump seem easier and cheaper, so I'll probably do that for my next test.
I have been using PETG for some parts that aren't right next to the engine, like a wiring bus behind the tail lights, or an engine cover latch, or the digital speedometer case. I stopped using ABS due to the fumes, which is also an issue with ASA, but my printer is now in a place where the fumes aren't as much of an issue. Also, ASA sounds like it's all around better for outdoor use than ABS. Thanks for the confirmation!
ICV
Check your throttle body
I haven’t been able to find anything obviously wrong there, but it’s also possible that I’m just overlooking something.
Would have been easier just not stop at stop signs...
I don’t think using anti-seize is a good idea .
Huh, that's interesting. I just did some searching after reading your comment, and it seems there is some debate on the issue. My mechanic friend says "yes, use it", as do some forums I found, but others say "no". I also swear that at least one O2 sensor I got came with some already on the threads, but it also may have been a special kind that won't cause problems for the oxygen sensor, or just to keep people from applying it incorrectly. I do know I have to keep it off the end of the sensor, though -- I made sure to only apply it to the threads.
It seems Permatex recommends copper anti-seize, which of course I didn't look into before I installed the O2 sensor -- I just used the normal stuff I had lying around. I'm sure it will be fine... or I'll have another video about how to remove a stuck oxygen sensor in 6 months or so. :)
Thanks!
Well I guess if the car runs good then it is good!! Thanks for the reply .
So far so good, anyway. :) If the O2 sensor suddenly stops working I’ll know why!
If you use the correct high heat stuff it works fine as long as you only put it on the threads and not the sensor tip. The low temp stuff will cook on there and basically weld the o2 sensor in there again.
Almost every oxygen sensor I’ve bought, particularly Bosch and NGK give you a packet of copper anti-seize. I’ve never not used it and never had any issues. Not on any my families’ stock cars, or my 390 rwhp turbo Nissan.
Just make sure you keep it to the threads and off the sensor portion.