You have a natural presentation method that is both credible and entertaining. AND you fix all those annoying things that many of D owners put off until it's absolutely necessary to fix. Which reminds me . . . the next time you're in San Antonio I would entice you to help me work out some "kinks" in my S/N 6815. I have a grease pit in one of my garage bays, and you will have a large house to stay in. Well, it's in Texas, so of course it's big.
Ironically, I’ve been putting off those things until it’s necessary to fix them. :) Or at least until they annoy me enough to fix them. I’m always hesitant to do something that takes my car off the road, but once it’s broken I have no problem doing a bunch of work on it. If I’m every down in San Antonio I’ll let you know!
Enjoying your channel. Very everyday" guy working on his old vehicle, just happens to be a DeLorean. So many channels do DeLorean's, but these are coming at it from a different point of view. Yours is a car you use, and things are fixed as they happen. Yes you do "upgrades", but again, they are as problems arise using better aftermarket stuff. A lot of what you do is "let me get it working" and mess with the little things later, which may never come, but that is OK, how many use their vehicles.
Love the videos, subscribed and liked. Please at a minimum sand the pads, the extreme heat will have glazed the pads and rotors. A honer for rotors is not very expensive, and regular sandpaper for the pads, scotch brite, and brake cleaner. You want those both deglazed.
On the flip side, the first big project I did on this car was a 3.0L engine swap after my fuel system got destroyed by water getting into the tank and I discovered a casting error that led to a hole in my engine block. It took me 5.5 years. I did some other repairs too, like having to learn how to weld to patch some holes in the frame, learn how EFI worked and how to tune it, etc, but I didn’t want to be that guy who has a car in the garage for 20 years that he’ll get to some day. So I did a little work most weekends, even if it was just adding a bolt, and eventually got it done.
HAHAHAHA an extractor that actually worked. Been there so many times when they snap. What I learned is use some Kriol, a reverse drill bit first and hope it just comes out then.
I know, right? I usually just break them too. At one point I snapped off a bolt I didn't realize was double-nutted on the other side, with one nut welded to the frame. Then I snapped off an extractor in it, failed to drill that out, and resorted to Dremeling the extractor to dust. Then I went back to drilling with successively larger bits all the way through the bolt, which eventually broke it free. I was then able to get an extractor to turn the already-loose bolt out the rest of the way -- I just needed something to grip it; the extractor was only useful at the end. www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-maintenance-blog/2021/7/4/engine-cutting-out-and-a-broken-trailing-arm-mount-bolt This e-brake screw was the first time I've seen an extractor work as advertised. I think it only worked because it's such a small bolt and I didn't need a lot of torque to get it out. I do have some reverse bits, and I did try them, but with any bit my biggest problem is just getting them to drill into the screw in the first place. I was able to use my drill press for the e-brake screw, which was a lot easier. I probably just need to buy higher-quality bits. I too douse everything in Kroil. :) I've never done a real comparison of penetrants, but it seems to be the one that everyone swears by, and that's good enough for me!
Thanks! It’s just a kicker - a spring-loaded thing to make it a little easier for the door to open. DeLorean Motor Center (now DMC CA) installed them around 20 years ago to help work around my doors sticking to my door seals and interfering with my door launchers. I’ve since fixed the door seals properly, although I still have to hook up the door launchers again.
I actually did replace the door light switches with magnetic ones. At first I used magnetic switches like you'd find in building doors and windows for security systems. The trick is finding normally closed ones, or else your lights are on when the door is closed. They finally failed after a decade or so and I bought some new ones, but they failed after a few weeks in an automotive environment. I've since built new ones that use a reed switch, a magnet (to make the reed switch normally closed), and a 3D-printed case. Alignment with the other magnet attached to the strike plate on the door is critical, but once you have it set up it works great. I'm thinking of selling them if there's enough interest. The other issue is that you need LEDs for this -- the switches are rated for only half an amp, and incandescents will draw too much current and burn up the switch. I've also thought of mounting an angle sensor on the door hinge, but that requires constant power. Which is fine for other projects I'm planning where knowing the specific angle of the door would be nice, but I don't think that will work for your average owner who doesn't want the extra battery load when the car is off.
Your videos are indeed enjoyable but please fix your brakes properly. I do not know if you have an engineering background or not but there were many red flags. And most importantly that you reused the square taper seals that is a deathwish. Seals shall never ever be reused if they have been disassembled, its 100% sure that the parts will not sit in the way they were worn previously. You are risking it too much
@@joeangellxBack in the day it wasn't uncommon to rebuild calipers. Buying a set of seals and boots can be done if you know the bore and groove width. Finding a parts store that still has _actual_ books with dimensions is a challenge. Here in New England NAPA is likely your best bet. God, I just love nerds needing out about their odd and esoteric interests! 👍
@@jimurrata6785 In theory I can buy a rebuild kit from HiSpec, but I had trouble actually finding the right kit on their site, and I'm fuzzy on actually getting it shipped to the US. Next time I take the calipers off I'll pull a piston and the e-brake plunger and bring the whole thing to NAPA and see if they can help me figure out what I need. Thanks!
Quite true - more moving parts means more chances for failure. The stock calipers have two pistons, but have a smaller contact area on the rotor, so it’s a trade off.
9:25 I actually think the long trip will be a trial by fire for all the old parts rather than for the new ones 😄
You have a natural presentation method that is both credible and entertaining. AND you fix all those annoying things that many of D owners put off until it's absolutely necessary to fix. Which reminds me . . . the next time you're in San Antonio I would entice you to help me work out some "kinks" in my S/N 6815. I have a grease pit in one of my garage bays, and you will have a large house to stay in. Well, it's in Texas, so of course it's big.
Ironically, I’ve been putting off those things until it’s necessary to fix them. :) Or at least until they annoy me enough to fix them. I’m always hesitant to do something that takes my car off the road, but once it’s broken I have no problem doing a bunch of work on it. If I’m every down in San Antonio I’ll let you know!
Enjoying your channel. Very everyday" guy working on his old vehicle, just happens to be a DeLorean.
So many channels do DeLorean's, but these are coming at it from a different point of view.
Yours is a car you use, and things are fixed as they happen. Yes you do "upgrades", but again, they are as problems arise using better aftermarket stuff. A lot of what you do is "let me get it working" and mess with the little things later, which may never come, but that is OK, how many use their vehicles.
That’s a pretty accurate description!
Love the videos, subscribed and liked. Please at a minimum sand the pads, the extreme heat will have glazed the pads and rotors. A honer for rotors is not very expensive, and regular sandpaper for the pads, scotch brite, and brake cleaner. You want those both deglazed.
You have the patience of a saint, seeing how much work the car needed in such a sort amount of time
On the flip side, the first big project I did on this car was a 3.0L engine swap after my fuel system got destroyed by water getting into the tank and I discovered a casting error that led to a hole in my engine block. It took me 5.5 years. I did some other repairs too, like having to learn how to weld to patch some holes in the frame, learn how EFI worked and how to tune it, etc, but I didn’t want to be that guy who has a car in the garage for 20 years that he’ll get to some day. So I did a little work most weekends, even if it was just adding a bolt, and eventually got it done.
Brooo has the zen I wish to obtain
Wow Joe, another great "Deloreon Debacle" production!
00:18 looks like you came back from 1985😂
Hunter Engineering for the win
YET AGAIN GREAT VIDEO PLUS REAL USFUL INFO THANKS FOR YOUR TIME, IT'S GREAT YOUR SO HAPPY TO LET US FOLLOW YOUR INTERESTING MOTORING FUN..
HAHAHAHA an extractor that actually worked. Been there so many times when they snap. What I learned is use some Kriol, a reverse drill bit first and hope it just comes out then.
I know, right? I usually just break them too. At one point I snapped off a bolt I didn't realize was double-nutted on the other side, with one nut welded to the frame. Then I snapped off an extractor in it, failed to drill that out, and resorted to Dremeling the extractor to dust. Then I went back to drilling with successively larger bits all the way through the bolt, which eventually broke it free. I was then able to get an extractor to turn the already-loose bolt out the rest of the way -- I just needed something to grip it; the extractor was only useful at the end. www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-maintenance-blog/2021/7/4/engine-cutting-out-and-a-broken-trailing-arm-mount-bolt
This e-brake screw was the first time I've seen an extractor work as advertised. I think it only worked because it's such a small bolt and I didn't need a lot of torque to get it out.
I do have some reverse bits, and I did try them, but with any bit my biggest problem is just getting them to drill into the screw in the first place. I was able to use my drill press for the e-brake screw, which was a lot easier. I probably just need to buy higher-quality bits.
I too douse everything in Kroil. :) I've never done a real comparison of penetrants, but it seems to be the one that everyone swears by, and that's good enough for me!
Great video as always!
Question: what is the black plunger-like device next to your driver side door striker?
Thanks!
It’s just a kicker - a spring-loaded thing to make it a little easier for the door to open. DeLorean Motor Center (now DMC CA) installed them around 20 years ago to help work around my doors sticking to my door seals and interfering with my door launchers. I’ve since fixed the door seals properly, although I still have to hook up the door launchers again.
@@joeangellx thats cool. I almost thought it was meant to be a replacement plunger for the door lights
I actually did replace the door light switches with magnetic ones. At first I used magnetic switches like you'd find in building doors and windows for security systems. The trick is finding normally closed ones, or else your lights are on when the door is closed. They finally failed after a decade or so and I bought some new ones, but they failed after a few weeks in an automotive environment. I've since built new ones that use a reed switch, a magnet (to make the reed switch normally closed), and a 3D-printed case. Alignment with the other magnet attached to the strike plate on the door is critical, but once you have it set up it works great. I'm thinking of selling them if there's enough interest.
The other issue is that you need LEDs for this -- the switches are rated for only half an amp, and incandescents will draw too much current and burn up the switch.
I've also thought of mounting an angle sensor on the door hinge, but that requires constant power. Which is fine for other projects I'm planning where knowing the specific angle of the door would be nice, but I don't think that will work for your average owner who doesn't want the extra battery load when the car is off.
@@joeangellxI have those same plungers on my car. It was serviced at DeLorean Motor Center back in the day.
Your videos are indeed enjoyable but please fix your brakes properly.
I do not know if you have an engineering background or not but there were many red flags.
And most importantly that you reused the square taper seals that is a deathwish.
Seals shall never ever be reused if they have been disassembled, its 100% sure that the parts will not sit in the way they were worn previously.
You are risking it too much
I agree. I need to find a source for EPDM o-rings, but getting these completely rebuilt is definitely on my list.
@@joeangellxBack in the day it wasn't uncommon to rebuild calipers.
Buying a set of seals and boots can be done if you know the bore and groove width.
Finding a parts store that still has _actual_ books with dimensions is a challenge.
Here in New England NAPA is likely your best bet.
God, I just love nerds needing out about their odd and esoteric interests! 👍
@@jimurrata6785 In theory I can buy a rebuild kit from HiSpec, but I had trouble actually finding the right kit on their site, and I'm fuzzy on actually getting it shipped to the US. Next time I take the calipers off I'll pull a piston and the e-brake plunger and bring the whole thing to NAPA and see if they can help me figure out what I need. Thanks!
when the brakes have 4 cylinders its 4x as likely to fail as having only one
Quite true - more moving parts means more chances for failure. The stock calipers have two pistons, but have a smaller contact area on the rotor, so it’s a trade off.