Water Temperature Gauge Repair VW Mk1 Cabriolet
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- This is a common issue with these vehicles. I can also fix your gauge for you! Send me an email: olisrepairs@gmail.com
Instrument cluster removal: • VW Mk1 Cabriolet Instr...
Water temperature sensor
-Old style: 049919501 amzn.to/3k11RCK
-New style: 251919501D amzn.to/39HLlmy
Torque (old style):
-10nm or 87in/lbs
Tools
-Soldering iron: amzn.to/3gh2CFJ
-Solder: amzn.to/39Go5p6
Check out my new merchandise! olis-garage.creator-spring.co...
Follow me on Instagram! / olisgarage_
Disclaimer: The amazon links are affiliate links. Qualifying purchases will result in Oli getting a very small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting the channel! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Oli !!!!! You are the Cabby Guru!!! Thank you!!!!! keep them coming!!
Glad they help you out! More definitely are on the way.
Congratulations Oli! You are making very helpful videos.
Please make videos of everything you take apart, even if it seems very basic.
Thank you very much from Spain!
Alvaro Aneiros thank you for the kind words! I have a few in the works right now for suspension.
Great video !!!!
LE BM thanks!
Thanks , man
Thanks! I got mine fixed and the pointer back together (see time stamp 5:54 for a great view)
Thanks for the vid.. Help me with multiple questions being answered..
bravo,inqizimi i juaj më ka ndihmuar..
Un trabajo excelente, Congratulations
Thank you!
Good job
Thank you!
You are one of those rare today to find old time mechanics that only replace or fix 2$ part instead replacing whole unit that is 200$. If you were closer to me i would happily give you my car to fix all little thigs. Without your video help i would never dare to touch instrument cluster. Thank you for all your video instructions. Not sure if you tackled fuel pump diagnostic but will checking for it.
Too often people throw parts at repairs instead of simple diagnostics. Luckily these cars are still very simple making the diagnostic portion relatively easy.
I haven’t done fuel pump diagnostics yet. Mainly because I haven’t had any issues.
What’s your issue again?
Oli save's the day again - looks like my $3 rockauto temp sensor died after a year lol. Grounding the wire makes it max out.
Good to hear man!! I hope these videos help these cars stay on the road. I have a whole box of parts I need to film installing. But now I got a van so….haha.
@@OlisGarage For sure, I know comments help the video. I think you could find a niche in making diagnosis videos. That's what saves people's butts the most.
@@OlisGarage sensor was fine, it was the ground wire. oopsie.
Hey Oli. Great video! I followed you steps but my problem hasnt been solved. My temp needle seems to be working like et should, needle goes to half way when driving on a regular road. My problem is the LED that doesnt blink when the key is turned. It just comes sort of on, for a few secs, no flashing just constant, light, sort of because its super dimmed.
When driving the car around town or on a hot day the temp might rise a bit and then the same dimmed led thing is happening. What am i missing here?
🥰👍👍so many thanks to share. Obrigado 😉
Glad it helped!
Please can you tell me the value of the resistor that the voltage regulator is going to. It is the middle leg of the regulator. My resistor has burned out and I don’t know what the value is. Thank you
PLEASE DO A VIDEO ON THE TACKOMETER!!!!
Oli! New subscriber. VW addict for decades. Thank you for the videos, new project, 1992 Cabriolet has all the trouble you cover in your videos. Is there a recommended supplier of MK2 parts you use? I would like to keep all my parts VAG. Thanks again!
Welcome to the channel! I shop around a bit once I get the part number. Fcpeuro, autohausaz, ecstuning all come to mind. There are some others as well such as cascade German, deutscheautoparts and a few others. I haven’t had issues with all of those. Again, I usually shop around once I find the part number. I try to use made in Germany parts, but it’s getting harder to find those for everything.
My mk2 jetta temperature gauge reads maximum as soon as you put the key in, even with the temperature sensor disconnected, does that mean my dash is faulty ? thanks !
Hello
, thank you for the video, I have a MK2 Golf with the ABD engine 1.4L 8v, do you know if there's any consequence of plugging in a new blue temp sensors because the car is idling rough after replacing the thermostat housing and unplugging the connector, and some people told me not to plug in a new blue sensor because it can harm the wiring harness,
also can you tell what is the normal reading for temperature on the dashboard because I've replaced the black sensor and the reading got higher than before around 1/3 of the gauge, while
on the old black temp sensor it was below that while driving in a steady climate.
Best regards
My 1990 cabriolet 2h engine, same as videos, has a crazy MFA that sometimes works fine some others gets crazy. Have you ever fixed one of these MFA?
Congratulations!! Super videos!!
I have not. What leads you to believe that it is the MAF?
Just to make sure, we are talking about the air flow sensor?
tenho o memo problema :D
Hi again.
I'm not talking about flow sensor or any other sensor. Just only the MFA( computer board).
This MFA works properly some times showing all details, like oil temperature, Kms, etc, when you push the top wiper washer bottom, but some other does not make any reacción by pushing the same bottom getting display crazy. It is not a problem that is whether is heated or not because spears without engine started or complete warm.
I ended up thinking the problem is the MFA, and it is fixable, because some German people offer that repair by shipping them the MFA, it seems to be popular problem but I don't know what it is.
I couldn't assume the double cost of shipment and repair from Spain to Germany, and also fearful of any MFA change, mine is in very good condition.
Sorry to bother you
Hey oli, thanks for sharing knowledge on mk1's I have a golf mk1 1300 and my display also goes crazy like yours did. I followed the steps but mine still goes straight to hot and light blinks. Any advice ?
Sorry for the delay.
It sounds like something is grounding out. Test the gauge (cluster removed) with 5V. That should make it only go to the halfway mark.
If that works properly and it still goes to max when you install it, then it’s either the temp sensor or the wire. My bet is the temp sensor is bad.
Oli, first of all thank you for the great videos! Where can I find the temperature sensors, I need the one that controls the gauge you fixed on this video. Thank you in advance for all your help, p.s. I order one, but as soon as I start the engine the temp. gauge moves all the way up😡😡😡
I realized I just had the wrong part number for the new style sensor. It has been updated and links for purchase also included.
It sounds like the sensor is bad. The way the gauge works is the more voltage the sensor lets through, the “hotter” the gauge indicates.
Try this: unplug your gauge and turn your car to run. We expect the gauge not to move because it is getting no voltage. If it still spikes, then the red and yellow wire is messed up somewhere.
Hey Oli...are the clusters from mk2 golfs and jettas compatible with the cabriolets?
Fernando Rangel mk2 golf will fit, but I’m not sure if you have to do any wiring work.. mk2 Jetta won’t fit if I remember correctly. There’s some vwvortex threads discussing instrument cluster swaps
Hi Oils! I have a leakey gas Tank and would love a video on that
Is the tank leaking or the hose from the filler to the tank? If it’s the hose from the filler, I’ll have a video sooner than later. Mine is leaking there.
@@OlisGarage not sure
@@OlisGarage thinks its the tank itself also the gaige doesn't work
Thanks Oli for sharing!
I have a problem with the temperature warning led, It never stops flashing. I have changed the rele, blinked que coolant sensor, etc, but It keeps flashing, could you help me?
That seems to be a problem with some of the gauges. I haven’t figured that out yet. I need to get my hands on a gauge that does that so that I can take it apart and see what is causing it.
Fuel gauge same process? Thanks for all the videos.
I’ve never taken one apart, but I certainly assume it would be the same. They look very very similar.
Not sure why it’s usually just the water temp gauge that fails…hmm
Thanks!
Thanks for the super informative videos. I have a 92 cabriolet where the water temperature gauge, fuel gauge, and tachometer are all non operational. I imagine it is an electrical problem. Suggestions on where to start?
Samuel Prieto replace the voltage stabilizer. I’ll need to make a video on it. But for now, I’ll link you to this thread. forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8623985-Voltage-Stabilizer(s)-Mouser
@@OlisGarage thank you, ill get to work on it
@@OlisGarage sorry to bother you again, there seems to be a bit of disagreement on which part is an actual direct replacement. Do you have an opinion on it?
Thanks,
Samuel Prieto yeah, I’d say follow the first 4 posts in the tread. Buy the part from mouser (see if you can find the spacer...), flip it, and mount it.
Just test it and make sure that the pins have the voltages as described in the Bentley.
I’m 99.99% sure you have to flip the voltage stabilizer. Just look at the data sheet of the one you buy to make sure.
I know they talk about data sheets being incorrect, but.....part of me doubts that.
Step one for you will be to test the current voltage stabilizer and see if it works or not. I presume it doesn’t.
Then order a new one or three and replace it carefully.
What LEDs did you use for the led upgrade?
I've used superbrightleds. Check cabby-info dot com. There is a guide on the website. I will also be making a video (it's already filmed). I just have to edit and upload it!
great vids! For this one, what's the repair if the temp gauge works, but the red light doesnt?
naguszed good question....so good that I am not sure haha. I would take the gauge apart like I did and look for cold solder joints (joints that look weird or cracked). The gauge works by getting hot and bending the needle with the heat every time it is used. I wouldn’t be surprised if that causes some sort of other cold solder joints.
@@OlisGarage There is a solder joint right above the bulb, I used a desoldering tool to clean up said joint and just resoldered and it seemed to do the trick to get the bulb functional. You can test with a 9v the same as you do the gauge, just on the center stud. Also-I just did this repair last week based off Briano of Vortex fame's tutorial and I really wish I saw this video beforehand. Nice one.
@@chadmiller9816 thanks for the bulb input!! I won’t lie, his tutorial is where I learned how to fix the gauge. I figured I might as well film it, because CZcams has so much info but none for these cars.
@@OlisGarage I'm all about it. Lots of the old write-ups are either dead links or missing photos. Also just way easier to follow a video. Glad to see someone keeping it going.
@@chadmiller9816 you’re absolutely right. Unfortunately the forums just aren’t what they used to be. Brian’s tutorials are the basis of a lot of my knowledge, and im extremely thankful for his work. Hopefully CZcams will reach a greater audience and help keep these vehicles in great shape, on the road longer
I will try if you messege back…. Hey i got a problem ive replece the sensor and still same problem my guage goes when grounded a little more then halp up and then stops what could be the problem plese help😢
It probably needs to be fixed as in the video and recalibrated.
Oli, is it possible that you can demonstrate how to fix (if possible) the throttle valve switch?
Greetings,
Christian Tovar the switch on the throttle body? How do you know it’s broken? Just curious.
Oli's Repairs, I’m not am expert on this field. I have 1991 Cabriolet that I’m fixing for my daughter’s 15 birthday. Doing my research I found another great VW expert like you, he posted a video where he explains the problem with this switch. “When RPM’s are over 1500-2000 this switch job is to drop RPM’s while keeping speed”
Christian Tovar ummmmmmmm that’s false. You have two micro switches. An idle and a full throttle switch. Neither of those will be activated at 1500rpm.
Oli's Repairs, I think I failed to explain it. (My bad) here the name of his video with the explanation and replaced switch: czcams.com/video/qBVIihxyj0A/video.html
Hi Oli, both my water temp and fuel level gauges are dead...possible that they both need this op?
Could certainly be the case. They function very similarly. I’m not sure why it is the water temp gauge which breaks the most though. Does your tach work?
Hey Oli, I have the same exact car as you and the fuel, temp gauge will work from time to time. The tach doesn’t work and the oil light keeps flashing, even after watching your other video and replaced both oil pressure sensors. I saw you suggesting to someone replacing the voltage stabilizer. I suck at electrical, would you fix mine if I ship it to you and pay you for the parts and labor?
We can probably work something out. Shoot me an email. Olisrepairs @ gmail
Please do video if voltage regulator is blown.
It’s on my list of things to film. Just have to get around to it. All of mine are still good, so currently it’s not of the highest priority.
Oli, I have a problem with my 'cels. gauge that is next to the gear shifter.(The three circular gauges)
how do I fix it?
Check out my video on dynamic oil pressure. I cover that gauge in the beginning of that video.
2:25. Where is the cluster removal link? Managed to get under my South African 1.3 Citigolf's stearing wheel and even loosened the instrument panel, as well as the connector, but cannot for the life of me cannot remove the instrument panel to check the mylar......
found it. Super thanx.
My board does not mark the temperature, the bulb is not useful, in Mexico City they do not sell it, I do not know what to do
Hmm, so you said the gauge does not work at all?
question ?? If the needle goes up but the red light does not turn on
What are you doing when the needle goes up? How far does the needle go up? Red light doesn’t always come on
My temp guage works fine, however, the red flight flashes permanently with ignition on or engine running instead of just the normal flashing a few times as a self check when key is turned on. My overflow does not have a coolant level sensor, model without this, and there is no fuse/relay that controls the annoying blink light. Any idea why this is?
MikeB Mike I’ve had multiple people ask about the flashing light. I’m going to have to pull a gauge apart and look at it to see how it’s wired up. When I get to it I will definitely make a video. Until then, I’d say don’t worry. As long as your needle works, that’s the important part
@@OlisGarage Curious if you have found a solution to this. I have the same problem. I have tested the wire and replaced the sending unit. The needle works and temp is normal, but the light blinks continuously.
Hi, same problem here. I'm interested if anyone diagnoses this!@@thomassiever8342
Hi oli... just a quick question... i have your same engine (2h i guess), and i want to add an extra gauge for the water temp, as i don't fully trust the oem one... my question is: where I can take the reading? Do i have to use an extra sensor to place in the same hose of the oem one? (I mean, cut the hose and use an adapter)... i've already purchased a vdo gauge, with the sensor, but obviously is not the same 2h sensor (as I discovered after the purchasing) so i don't know what to do... thank you...
You’ll have to somehow add the sensor. I’m not sure if the sensor you bought screws in, but if that’s the case then look for an coolant flange from older cabriolet. The flange on the front of the block on the older vehicles had 3 places for sensors.
What makes you not trust the oem gauge? Have you tested it?
@@OlisGarage it works, but i'm not sure about the reading (it reach very high temp easily, for example when i'm stuck at the traffic light) and sometimes it clicks during the warm up of the engine... I never seen the red light, but I just want an extra reading...
I don't think the older flange works with the digifant, but in the meantime i don't want to do something that i'll regret, and as you have much more experience than me (i own the car for just 5 months), i was wondering if you had already to deal with something like this...
I would test the fan system. On the bottom of the front left side of the radiator there is a switch. Disconnect the two wires that go to it. With a jumper wire, connect those two wires. The radiator fan should turn on.
I would replace that switch as well with a new one.
Then also replace the thermostat and do a coolant flush (video coming eventually...I have it filmed but need to edit).
That should get your system working well again.
I would test the fan system. On the bottom of the front left side of the radiator there is a switch. Disconnect the two wires that go to it. With a jumper wire, connect those two wires. The radiator fan should turn on.
I would replace that switch as well with a new one.
Then also replace the thermostat and do a coolant flush (video coming eventually...I have it filmed but need to edit).
That should get your system working well again.
@@OlisGarage the fan works, for sure... I can hear it spin all the times that become hot...
Replace the thermostat is in the to do list, i'm also going to buy one that open at 75° instead of 87, as I read on some forums, hoping it will help...
Thank you for your tips, your video are very useful and they help me a lot to fix the little problems here and there... i've just removed the tacho without destroy anything 😅
likely a good idea to replace the volt reg while you are there, so you dont have to pull it out again.
Oh definitely, and maybe even upgrade the lights to LED. I just haven’t had one fail yet, so I haven’t gotten around to making a video about it. I don’t think they fail that often, but it’s a fairly easy upgrade
@@OlisGarage Ah perhaps. My fuel/rad gauge sometimes randomly stop working. Hard to find those regulators. Gowesty has them for a really fair price.
@@json8172you can also buy them from mouser electronics for $0.25 a piece or something. I’m going to make a video on how to do the repair with a link in the description. Most places want upwards of $20 for a part that costs one hundredth the price
@@OlisGarage yah you might. That would help alot of people if they knew about the mouser part #.
@@json8172 I’m planning to make a video this summer. I have a customer whose cluster i will be repairing, so it should be fairly soon!
Automatic windows don't work, and the relay box is the failure. After this video, it seems like you would know the best repair for that. Have you had to repair the relay box?
I have two right now that have failures, and it would be great to know what needs to be fixed on them. Or a workaround solution to replace the box with something more modern?
They always get wet and fail. I haven’t really messed with them much. Someone replaced them with simple relays once, but that isn’t as nice as the controller box.
You’re sure the boxes are bad and not just the wires in the door?
Yeah, swapped the box with my 92s and they work
Well then it’s definitely the box. My goal is to tear one apart this summer and see what all is inside.
@@OlisGarage I have a broken one already popped open. I'll Instagram the insides so you can take a look
@@thatguy.42 sounds good!
Hey Oli.
any ideas on why this is happening on my 1982 Cabrio: When cold, fuel and temp gauges work fine, no issues . . . once the car has been running and warms up both gauges stop working.
Everything else on cluster works and stays working. Voltage is good and alternator seems to be charging fine . . .
Both gauges probably just need to be fixed like I did in this video. Normally it’s the water temp gauge which fails, but it sounds like both of yours might be failing. Does the tachometer still continue to function when the gauges stop working?
@@OlisGarage Hey Oli! Thanks for the reply!
yes, the tach still works normally when the other gauges stop working . . . as does everything else on in the cluster . . . except for the upshift light which i still can't figure out.
So, i guess that this means that both are failing . . . but what is interesting is that they both work initially and then suddenly not work at the same time . . .
@@JB-zm3od that they stop at the same time is really weird. Let me think about it for a bit. I’m currently building an instrument cluster test stand so that I can plug in an instrument cluster and mimic driving conditions to test everything.
Upshift light is just powered by a vacuum switch in the engine bay. Super basic.
@@OlisGarage Yes, it seems strange . . . let me know if you can give me any more ideas about the problem . . . i don't want to disassemble the cluster unless absolutely necessary.
In regard to the upshift light, is there a relay as part of the circuit or does the switch just activate with changes in vacuum?
@@JB-zm3od Mine does that - periodically the temp and fuel gauges both drop to nothing. It's a problem in the fuse box or a connection to the fuse box plugs on the rear, often corroded terminals from a roof leak.
and for ALL the gauges all at once?
Voltage regulator
If I sent you the cluster could you do the repair for a fee?
Absolutey. I’m actually working on setting up an eBay store and will eventually post the link.
Send me an email please and we can work it out that way. My email address is listed on the “about” tab of the channel
Description is now updated to include the link! Though if you contact me directly that’s honestly easier
can you simply replace the gauge ....i suck at soldering
Ralph Vickers yes you can. Though you run a chance of it also being bad...so make sure to check it first.
Or send it to me and I’ll solder it for you. Turnaround would be a day. If you’re serious we can work something out.
@@OlisGarage ok thanks....i Have options. I will still need to test mine, but good info and a very helpful videos
Ralph Vickers good luck! Hope you get it worked out.