SERIOUS ISSUES FOUND! Repairing 3 Tractors, John Deere 2038R, 3046R, & 3520
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- čas přidán 19. 08. 2023
- 3 compact tractors all had issues after a day of working in the pond. Tractor Time with Tim, Ken from Bolt on Hooks and our friend, Kenton, try to repair the John Deere 2038R, 3046R and 3520.
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You three guys took me back to being a kid in the 1970’s watching the old folks work with the way you were working together. The only missing was beer and cigarettes- which I don’t miss at all.
Im certain these 3 wisemen could tackle any of earths issues. Seriously guys always great to see this team together!
We could sure have fun trying.😉
Moe, Larry and Curly are doing a great job. Keep up the good work.
Yeah! My wife was listening and she asked, “Are those guys drunk or high?”😂😂😂
Which one am I? 😂
@@frankdrahos8569LOL! I’m just high on life! 😉
What a great time working with you, Ken and Christy. I always learn something working with this team, and yes…it also makes me laugh! Blessings to all.
That was very informative watching Ken diagnose the problem with the 2038R third function.
What a great group! Hiya Kenton! Thank you for gracing us with your glorious laughter! Also, thanks Ken for chasing that gremlin!
Hi Caveman! Thanks for the kudos. Special time with Tim and Ken.
Great Video!, Loved it, and always like Ken at work, Great contribution...
Great Episode have to say my favorite part was Kens tractor Hydraulic segment very knowledgeable I watched it twice make sure I didn’t miss anything
Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks for taking us through the diagnosis on the 2038R! Will save many of us time and we are learning with you.
Same exact thing happened to my 2038R, it would blow the fuse non stop. The local John Deere dealer couldn’t figure it out when finally I traced the problem to the brake pedal.
Great Tim’s side kick (kicks) helping him with problems. You learn something new every day.
Christie really does an exceptional job with the recording...
She sure does, and she doesn’t get enough credit!
You are spot on. She really is a “Super Trooper”!
Let’s get started ! Happy Sunday
Great video. It’s nice to see the problems and solutions along with the days where everything is running smoothly. You have a great crew of friends.
John Deere disables the three point rock shaft circuit (which includes the Deere 3rd function) because the tractor will go into pressure relief and overheat the hydraulic fluid if the three point control lever is not in the fully forward (down) position when the backhoe is attached. It is done to protect the tractor from damage by the average user. You can hook it up the other way but you must understand the risk.
Yes, great reply.
Is there any Deere documentation of this? I find it hard to believe Deere would not include this important aspect since a TLB combination is very common and many use the backhoe as a great ballast. Seems weird.
I checked - this is not documented in the Power Beyond install manual. I personally installed my Power Beyond kit. When you buy a tractor with Power Beyond already installed from the factory, you don't get that manual, but you should. You are also supposed to receive with your tractor the left over hydraulic compatibility hard lines per the installation manual but nobody gets them which means you have to buy them again if you add hydraulic circuits. The same goes for the third function install manual. I will keep "digging" for a reference...
@@barelystablefarm7151 None that we know of.
@@SSouthcombeIn the power beyond installation manual, there is nothing stating that the rocker shaft has to be down while the backhoe is attached. What is stated is that the rocker needs to be in the down position for the installation.
And at the very end of the manual, When not using the power beyond for operating a rear mounted implement, the hydraulic hose end with the male quick connector must be connected to the female quick-connect coupler.
I have a 5300 with a JD power beyond kit hooked to a JD 10A backhoe. It has the P T R hoses and worked fine until I added a front end loader fed off the rear remotes. The front end loader had very little pressure, about 800 psi.
After consulting with a mechanic at my local dealership we decided to close off the tank line on the backhoe, which I did by simply disconnecting the coupler. Bingo! Everything went to working correctly. This sounds like the same issue you had, but I couldn’t determine exactly what you connected on your tractor. There are apparently no trouble shooting trees for situation’s where multiple implements are on the same hydraulic circuit.
For the first tractor, check all the grounds to see if any are loose and also clean the grounds.
A ground issue isn't going to cause a fuse to blow - if anything, a bad ground would cause less current to flow, not more. Unless it is a ground to an electronic module that controls other electrical loads, then maybe . . .
Great video. Thanks. I've been putting off purchasing the 3rd function valve for a grapple. I love that you showed the trouble shooting the situation. Again, Thank you.
Great video. I love learning from Ken. He has helped me a ton with my Artillian grapple and diverter. You all are a good team.
That was a great training video. Thanks for sharing this.
Great video on the cures for the issues that were experienced with the tractors while digging out the pond. It seems like the electrical short will be a bit more of a challenge to find the cause.
you may have multiple circuits being fed by the fuse that blows. isolate one at a time to determine what feed (wire)is drawing the amps
I love setting row spacings on 8R tractors(not) 🤣
I have 3 Green tractors. The 2 Yanmar manufacturer tractors have been 100% reliable Zero problems . The JD 5045E has been nothing but trouble. One problem right after the other. My next tractor will be a Kubota.
Kubota's are overpriced. Look at TYM, you won't be sorry.
Price doesn’t mean a thing when you don’t have available parts and local dealer support.
Only 1 TYM dealer in my state
You have got to be kidding!
Love your videos..
probably too late for this…
we had a problem one year with a jd5 series.. blowing the starter fuse… ended up being the coolant sensor (in the same circuit)
To test we unplugged it and stopping the fuse problem
Keep making your videos and the scriptures at the end 👍
Same....JD 5075e
Hey, Check the ground short on the engine.
Interesting issue with your 2038R. I ordered my 2038R with 3rd, 4th, and 5th hydraulics and have the power beyond for my 270B. My dealer was unable to source the Deere 3rd function kit, so they installed a W.R. Long version. I can use my 3rd function with my 270B connected in the normal (Deere instructions) configuration. I don’t own a normal bucket, so I have a 4 in 1 bucket or grapple on (or forks) so I would have noticed for sure by now. I can think of several times that I’ve used the 3rd function with the 270B installed. That seems very odd to me that the Deere kit would be like that.
very interesting. glad to know this. using the grapple with the backhoe is a must!
8:43 carful about the widest setting and lifting a lot with the three point. Some manufacturers on some tractors lower the three point lift capacity. It should say in the owners manual, one of the manufacturers had it in fine print in the tire section.
Hey guys great video. On the first tractor with the fuse blowing. I ran in to this on a lawn tractor. There was a fuel shut off switch and when you turn the key on it opens the fuel flow to the engine. It would start and you would start mowing and it would make a couple rounds and blow the fuse. The value was rusted inside and was shorting out. Replaced it been running fine. Good luck.
Great video!
Good work guys. I'm sure you will sort out the rest. Let us know what you find!
Great video Tim ❤
When 1025 just stopped and blew that fuse it was the wire under the seat (seat sensor). It would make sense since it happened on a bump.
Seat sensors can definitely be a problem. My 2016 4105H sensor is so sensitive that if I even shift slightly in the seat, it will cut off the tractor. But my local Deere dealer says there is no adjustment for the problem. One of the things I don’t like about this tractor is it will not allow me to operate the PTO unless I am sitting on the tractor. So I can’t operate a PTO driven pump or wood chipper or any similar equipment unless someone is sitting on the tractor.
We tried that circuit first and even tried the ground it to get the fuse to blow. Notta.
As a side note - If your tractor is equipped with the 4th and 5th SCV you can also run your backhoe with the continuous flow hydraulic circuit. In fact, if you have the 4th and 5th SCV having the Power Beyond is not required to mount and operate a backhoe.
Using the continuous flow SCV circuit will not interrupt or disable the John Deere factory 3rd function hydraulic circuit.
Tim, there is so much on the key fuse on the 1025R. My local dealer had to replace a harness to the fuel pump on my 2015. JD tried making the harness too short and it rubbed through causing the fuse to blow. Not too sure about the newer models but may be a place to look for taught wires.
Tim a lawn care company in Ohio had a similar situation but in there case the fuse got wiggled loose shutting of there mower maybe get 2 sided tape and stick the one side to the cover if there is still a gap between the one side of the top of the fuse and the 2 sided tape attached to the cover add another layer of 2 sided tape so the fuse stays in place
ive learned in auto tech school sewing T pins are great for probing connectors if you cant get your meter probes in
Great video.
Tim, I have a suggestion for the tractor that blew the fuses. I had the same issue with my 2007 2305. The wire for the seat safety switch was routed through a pinch point. I took it out, took the shielding off of it, then took the electrical tape off and inspected the hot and ground wires. It wouldn't have been the ground wire but I checked it anyway. I took my finger nail and found a pinhead of copper on the hot wire. I separated the two wires, taped them up, put new shielding on it, and re-routed the wires so it couldn't pinch. That's been 4 years ago and it hasn't blown a fuse since. I don't know if that's the problem but I'm just trying to help. God bless and have a wonderful day.
Those are the first wires I check
Yes we went through those wires, and even intentionally grounded them to try to replicate the problem but the fuse did not blow.
@@kdeckster I was just tryin' to help.
@@johngersna3263 And I appreciate it!
I see the Kubota is not broken......haha, lol!
On tractor one. Check the seat switch. Shorted on mine killed the tractor every time I hit a big bump. Went through a bunch of fuses before I fixed it
Little tip on testing for 12volt power on the valve. Always make sure the circuit is loaded. Either keep the connector plugged in and back probe or put a load on the circuit with like a test light. If you don't load the circuit, it's possible to see 12 volts on the connector but the circuit might not be able to carry any current.
Your electrical problem is probably a ground issue.
Had the same thing happen on our 4 series , found a main ground cable extremely loose.
Pain in the you know what to find for sure.
Did you ever find the short or get the fuse to blow again? Sometimes when you start wiggling wires you can move something just enough to go away. Try taking a multi meter and see if you have any resistance from the fuse to ground and see if it changes as you wiggle stuff around. I know everyone says about the seat switch but I believe that’s just a dry contact closure back the the ECU. Thanks for the vid!
For the first tractor, my 2032R had the same issue. It was under warranty at the time so dealer fixed. They said it was a wire in the ROPS shorting out and replaced that wire harness. No issues since. Good luck.
For the wheels why not press in wheel studs and convert it to lug nuts
Check safety wires to the seat! Our 5100 kept blowing fuses. And it was a frayed wire to the seat totally killed the tractor when it blew 15 amp.
Hey Tim, great videos. Just a quick comment on your first tractor issue on the 3r. We had the same issue that randomly the tractor shut off while working. Had the issue on a 3039r and 3046r. Both applications In a sidewalk snow removal application. Issue with one was a pinched wire on the right side of tractor with the front axle pinching a wire when it articulated just right causing a flat spot in the wire and causing a short. Second tractor had a relay issue blown from the same issue. Both issues, seemed the ignition switch blew a fuse, replaced it but same issue occurred. Until we found these other issues. Once we re routed and protected that wire that was getting pinched, no problems since. Maybe it’ll help. Thanks again for your videos!
Ok, this sounds like a good possibility! I’ll take a look! Thanks!
Wow, you're the second one to mention that thanks!
First tractor is easy. The seat kill switch/ wiring is shorting out somewhere under seat.
I have a 2038R with same setup (loader, backhoe, 3rd function, etc). I was told by the dealer when I picked it up that the 3rd function is disabled on purpose as you said. I find it very annoying that you have to change the plumbing depending on what job you want to do. Never thought to connect the hoses like you demonstrated so that's very interesting.
I think that you will find the front harness for front pto override reverse. It's used on front snow blower or anything used for front pto hooked up. Harness runs down front left axle above axle. Mine got smashed during brush hogging and a lot of axle articulation
Good idea, I did not look there. Was yours on a 3-series too?
I have a 2032r 2019
I had a problem like that on my 738 tractor i toke it to jd it was under warranty . They did find some wires tubing together causing the dead short . And the area was back of the tractor between the rear tires some place they repaired it and no more problems at all
on the 2038r you have the 4 hyd ports on the rear the are for the 3 rd function NO diverter needed and if you run hoses to the loader you will a 3 rd function.
But then you have to remove your hand from the joystick to operate the grapple. Functional, but not convenient.
My 3 series has gone through 3 ignition switches because after a while the contacts are arching across as they wear.
This is a relatively new machine. I've never heard of fuse contacts 'wearing' before.
Maybe the fuse blowing is a bad battery or ck the battery cables
Loved this video. Been wondering why you didn’t space those tires out on the 3520, I bet you notice a significant improvement.
I have my suspicions, that you OS 3046R may have something related to power and safety switches running to your air seat. There is a kill switch under the seat, as well as power running to the air pump for the seat. I have not had the issue with my OS 3039, but did recently install a Deere air seat on mine. When you say a bump was triggering it to pop the fuse,.
Tractor #1 is a loose wire inside the ignition switch. Take the switch out, bend out the hold tabs and the problem will be obvious. I saw this several times.
BX kubota has the same set up, third function will not work if hoe is installed.
Mr. Tim, regarding the 3046R ignition fuse opening (blowing) here is something to try.
After starting the tractor, try turning on the various lights.
Does turning on the lights cause the ignition fuse to open? You can repeat this test with other accessories, but its normally the lighting circuit.
I’ll pause here until I hear back from you.
Note: I am posting what I’m being told by a family member who uses this model tractor and others on their cranberry marsh. I’m not the smart one here, LOL.
Lights do not cause.
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you for checking.
We had a 30 horse blowing fuses and then wouldn't start at all it was a short in the cluster we replaced it and it started up.
If you're going to use an impact to tighten the lug nuts, pick up a set of torque sticks to prevent over-tightening and subsequent damage of the hardware. For my tractor, I use my impact along with a torque stick that is 10 lb-ft under the spec torque, and then I run them the rest of the way down with a torque wrench. But I think you could probably just use one that was +/- 5 lb-ft of spec and use only the impact and just call it a day. Tractor wheels are not really precision equipment so I'm guessing that would be fine. Either way, trying to judge torque with a 200 lb--ft impact with "ugga-duggahs" isn't really the way to do it.
Most electronic impacts these days have torque settings for just that. Even the smaller models. For instance, my 3/8 impact has 4 settings. Low, medium, and high torque with a bolt stop setting. So all the uggas for removal and just a few duggas to snug before grabbing the torque wrench. That way I can and do use it for tightening everything from lugs on smaller machines/cars to small bolts in aluminum intakes.
@@Iceheart721 if that works for you.. cool. But Tim just demonstrated how that can go wrong. It's nearly impossible to accidentally over-torque while using an appropriate torque stick... no skill or paying special attention required. But to each their own, of course.
Order of operations on hydraulics would checking voltage first be easiest to do first hindsight is always 20-20. Fuse is difficult as a wire could be intermediate short or corrosion/intermediate score where connectors meet between wire junctions.
Listened for ‘clicks’ first…which confirms some power.
Typically that is all that is needed for the electrical diagnosis.
Only checked voltages as deeper step to be sure getting sufficient voltage.
Certainly no need to test this first when the ‘click test’ illustrates connectivity.
Three tractors, three problems. Welcome to John Deere.
Ha! A bit of a twist on reality, but ok.
measure the amp draw of the ignition wire in your shop. is it typical or on the threshold? if typical run a new ignition line from source to ignition modules . this will rule out a wire shorting to ground. if it still blows after field time put new fuse in and tap ignition modules with back of screw driver to induce problem. if it wont blow try thermal test with freeze spray and hair dryer.
I have a 2016 4105H with the backhoe and a third function valve. I don’t have that problem with my tractor. I can use both at the same time.
I blew that fuse on my 1026R and found that the seat safety switch wires, under the seat, were cut. I had to trim the wires back and put on butt splice connectors and then tape the wires down to the seat base.
I discovered the same issue with my 2038R (trying to use grapple with backhoe attached). I would also like to know if doing what y’all did will cause any issues. Please keep us updated
If you hook up the Power Beyond circuit the other way in order to retain 3rd function operability it is imperative to make sure your three point control lever is fully forward in the down position at all times. Not doing so will cause your pressure relief valve to continuously stay open and heat up your hydraulic fluid.
Front harness for front pto overdrive for backing up without having to push pto override button. I have had problem. Blowing same Fuze. It was that my from harness where it goes over front left axle was getting smasked against frame shorting out. So found john deere did not route harness right
Factory 3rd function on the 3R doesn't have this issue. My 3rd function remains operable with the backhoe attached .
The ignition fuse blew on my 1025r a couple days back. The tractor was on a weird angle and it just shut off. Started with the fuse panel and was up and running after replacing a 5 amp fuse. I too couldn’t find a bare or lose wire anywhere. I am as perplexed as you guys are on this one.
I think one of your other commentators had the answer… the seat switch wires. Just looked at mine and they are pinched good and flat. I bet this is the short.
Tried that….read my other replies
@@kdeckster I can’t find your other replies. What’s up?
@@greatmoose17 We check this first...even intentionally grounded them and the fuse did not blow.
Hey Tim any update on the 6 port single point connector for the 2038R? Thank you for the explanation of the problem with the 3rd function Ken!
I’m currently ‘not encouraged’ about this project. Having trouble getting the 1-series 6 port out the door.
It might make sense for you to get hydrosplus flat face connectors for the near term. Use code ttwt.
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you! I will look into that
Could we see the 2038R reconfigured and equipped with the grapple and backhoe both functional? Would love to see how the hydraulics lines are finally setup to achieve it.
Also seen a number of mentions of power beyond vs using another SCV perhaps comparing both methods?
For those still trying to decide which is the right tractor series, Tim, have you found any difference in the number and types of SCVs between the 1, 2, 3, 4 , 5 & 6 series tractors? Pro's and Con's?
We showed the functional 2038r setup at the end.
Long ago I saw a John Deere tech on tiktok working on a sprayer that would blow fuses, he found a single stand of wire poking through the insulation and it had eventually wore through the wire next to it and it would short going over bumps. This was inside the loom completely sealed up.
I would replace the fuse with a automatic reset breaker
But that does not ‘fix’ the problem.
This happened to my tractor and it was a bad ground on the frame. 2023 1025r Jan-feb this year it sat for over a month and no one could fix it. They replaced the whole IC
J.D. is the Harley Davidson of tractors.
YUP, Loktite everything! 🤣
Great Video... Trouble shooting at its finest... 😮😅🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🙏🙏🙏
I don't know if you diagnosed the ignition fuse problem yet or not. Have you checked the battery ground cable or the starter cable to the battery? Just my 2 cents.
On the first tractor dead in the water and blowing fuses - is the fuse box loose or shorting at the box itself ? Wires attaching to the back jump and short ? Good luck.
Nope. Checked that pretty closely.
Over the decades I've found that 99% of the time all tractors will work perfect: while off and setting in the barn....
Do you think a mahindra emax can use a subsoiler?
Clearly going around in circles causes mini tornados in your round about fuse box ... ?????
🇨🇦
WolfieColada!
there is a difference in quality fuses... and fast blow vs slow blow, both have bit me. Don't buy cheap fuses and know the difference in fast blow and slow blow. I'm not saying you've got cheap fuses but that was my issue.
How would this work with a 4 in 1 bucket from deere OEM… they offer this set up with the back hoe
So the common factor in all 3 breakdowns is…
John Deere😂
Not exactly a video John Deere can be proud of.
Ignition on a diesel tractor? C'mon guys. :)
It is called ‘ignition’ fuse.
Just an observation here- all three tractor are green.................hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
The newer your John Deere is the more poorly bilt they are.
John Deere will void your warranty for putting that cotter pin on.
⚠️⚠️⚠️⚠️⚠️Working on high pressure Hydraulics⚠️⚠️⚠️⚠️⚠️
Where the bloody heck are your safety goggles 😳‼️💥 . 👎👎
A blind man does no tractor work.