Absolutely the best video I have seen yet. We are new to camping and your video gave me the confidence to work on our water heater so thanks for helping us, Ken
Hey partner I just found your channel and want to thank you. You are obviously very mechanical and full of great knowledge that you are willing to share with those of us that are lacking in that category. Thanks again and I will for sure subscribe and watch everything you put out
Thank you. My water heater propane stopped running. Shuts off after a few seconds. My anode was really bad about 6 months ago and I do have a water leak coming from the top combustion chamber. I'm sure we damaged ours not servicing it. I plan to use this as a good learning experience and upgrade from a 10 to a 12 gallon. We have plenty of depth in our RV. Your video was great and I appreciate your time
Thank you for sharing your expertise. MUCH appreciated - I had no idea re: anode rod - i have called my RV dealer to NOT thank them for NOT mentioning this vital piece of information.
Wow Bud thanks so much i have same unit and think i broke my heater Element thought i had water in tank after a winterization buts thankyou for this now saved Very well done instruction
What a great video. Thank you! All the info we needed and an explanation for every component on the heater. I have a water leak and can't find it. Zero water leaking from lines but a deep from under the heater. I suspect the previous owner didn't replace the annod rod like I do and thats my leak
This video was totally awesome... now I understand this thing and how to approach fixing it. Thank you Thank you! Like the comment below, I didn't recall the dealer warning me about the anode rod. I can't help but editorialize here on the Suburban product. I don't know why Suburban doesn't put a huge warning label when you open up the screen saying that the anode rod must be regular checked...there certainly is room for it. Instead the only favor they do for me is tell me to check the temperature pressure relief valve every three years and there are warnings for models that I don't even have! They were too cheap to make a special label for individual models.
Great video! I have the same one in six gallon. I’m trying to fix the “DSI Fault” alert right now. That’s why I’m here. Hope this helps! Electric still works fine.
Same. Mine will light but the flame goes out. Works fine on 120v. Sounds like I'm going to order an anoide rod too. And check my burner tube for spider webs.
If you haven’t heard it enough, Great Video! I have a SW6DEL, and bought Anode bars and noticed that the threading (male) on the rod didn’t screw in all the way. The rods are the same size outer end to outer end, however, the replacement had a bit more, about 1/16-1/8, or two more rounds of threads more. I wish I could upload a picture. I was concerned about the end making contact with the wall of the tank. Now knowing that is glass, it worries me. The rod is about 1/8 not screwed flush. I don’t think what I replaced was screwed flush. I’ve seen some videos that show the anode rod being replaced but it’s not detailed enough. The camera pans away. Last, I have a 1973 Chinook Camper, the water heater was updated within the last year, give or take a few months. Still, I took the anode rod out, not knowing what it was and thinking it was just a way to let out the water for winterizing the camper. I was hoping to learn if there was a cut valve to prevent the RV antifreeze from getting in the water heater tank. Maybe that’s an add-on on the outside, somewhere near the in source. I know where to look now. In addition, I am glad that you showed how to remove the gas burner it seems that it’s easier to replace the heating rod/element with the burner out of the way. Many Thanks! Robin
Mine steadily deteriorated and initially took a few fires to get going but got worse till it took several restarts and then just wouldnt start at all. The gas burner actually fired up each time but after a few seconds went out however I noticed the piezo ignitor continued to fire even after the burner lit each time. That mad eme think it was a thermocouple issue that wasnt getting to temperature fast enough after it ignited. After watching several vids on these heaters I removed, realigned and cleaned the ignitor probes which incorporate the thermocouple but while this improved the number of times it took to start the problem persisted. I noticed that the flame was a bit yellow so I cleaned the brass gas jet with about a nunber 61 nozzle file and while that didnt appear to be restricted it did restore the flame to all blue and now it fires up immediately every time for the first time in a very long time. So make sure you clean that jet out along with everything else.
Hi, your video was a big help, I have to change out our hot water tank which is 12 gal. suburban. BtY they deleted the switch that you pointed out at the bottom on left side.
This is great and there appear to be more similar on the channel. You got my subscribe. If you could post a link to flexible drill bit attachment I'd be grateful never seen anything like it.
Changing out my water heater from manual light to a switch light. The water heater has 3 wires coming out of it I’m assuming one is ground then one would go to the switch but not sure about the 3rd. I tested the one it came out of the wires one was 13.7v the other 11.7 and the other I would say ground. I need to add a switch then I can get power from tapping another wire or run to panel.
Can you do a step by step trouble shooting on the electronic ignighter, and anything that would prevent it from working...I used to flip a switch inside the rv ahead of taking a shower.
Thanks for the great video! Im having an issue with my 120v thermostat lower non-resettable pole on my 10 gallon gas/electric suburban hot water heater. My wire going to this poll gets hot enough to melt the insulation off. Voltage is normally around 120v. It usually takes 12-18 months before the wire brakes, usually at the connector. My unit is about 14 years old and still works very good with this one exception. Any thoughts? Thanks for your reply. Dean
Thank you for the great video! Is there a test to determine why the propane will light and not stay on. I have cleaned the intake tube but still have a problem Thanks!
Very good videos. I have a question for my rv using propane for the water heater (electric not working) thay's why I used propane. It keeps the propane gas running even though the inside rv switch for propane is turn off. It was frozen last week and I just came back to the rv park. A friend from the rv park told me the problem may be the gas tank that was frozen last week, but stove and even water heater works, but sometimes it keeps running gas even when it stopeed heating. I would appreciate if you help me with this issue. Thank you.
That was great thank you. My question is, how do you select if the water heater is operating on Mains Electricity or Gas ? also you do you turn down the water heater so its not so hot ? Thanks in advance.
Thank you for your time making this video. Excellent. We had a question on our Suburban SW12DELC. The Gas will not spark, unless the water in the tank is cool. So if I leave the electric and gas off at night, the next morning when I turn on the gas, it will spark and start heating. If I don't let the water cool all the way down, the gas will never spark. Do you think it's the board or the 12v thermostat? All the best.
Journeymen caliber you are. Thank you. Ever have a leak from the heating element orifice ? Not even two year old suburban and I have a leak either in the bottom of my tank or the heating oriface.
Just purchased an SW10DEL directly from Suburban. DIY install planned. Concerning the DEL switch to be mounted inside the coach--it looks like I am to grab 12V DC + from (fill in the blank) location for the positive posts on the "GAS" switch and the "ELECTRIC" switch, and to use the blue wire from the control module to supply 12V DC to the LED light (the gas ignition failure light). Am I correct?
Great video i appreciate ur videos on suberban hot water heaters. i have a sw12del and on my electric I have 120 at the black on off switch but not at the heating element what's in between the 2 that might be the problem. thank u ahead of time
Thank you for the video it helped clarify a whole lot! I do have a question: is there a relay switch of sorts? I'm having issues with my water heater and the problem before the switch by the heating element. I cant get any volt reading going to that switch. Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!
Hello again not sure what happened to my earlier comment lol. I have a question about the illuminated “reset” light in our 2004 Everest 293p fifth wheel, what does it mean when its lit up? I turned the breaker off at electrical panel thinking that might reset it but it didn’t. The two reset buttons on tank are not tripped so i have no clue what to check now to reset it
Hello, I have a SW6 DE and I turn the switch on inside the camper, but no longer hear the clicking or see the small red light indicating the igniter is trying to light. Everything is like brand new in this camper, but this was the first few times using LP with the hot water heater always use electric heard about spiders because I had black soot on the outside of my camper. Took an air hose and blew everything out and now the igniter doesn’t work maybe something came loose or is it the whole circuit board. What is your guess lol thank you so much. I found your video more helpful than anything. I found a live full-time and a wolf pup 16 FQ and everything as I mention is like brand new in it but neither of my refrigerator will ignite with LP that’s another story and the hot water heater now will no longer light or click.
I could not figure out how to ask a question on the electrical part of a video you posted. What would cause my neutral bar to be hot and not my wires coming from my breaker?
Pretty sure you're wrong about the tstats. The bottom tstat is temperature activated and set to 130F. That's the one regulating the operation of the water heater. Its spring loaded and continuously opens the circuit (at temp) and resets when the WH cools below set temp. Should it fail, the top tstat (also called the ECO) will break the circuit at 180F and that one needs to to be reset manually. There is no one-shot tstat on the Suburban WH as far as I'm aware. You're probably confusing this with the ECO fuse on the Atwood/Dometic which would melt in the event of a backfire from the burn chamber.
Hi Great video !!! Any idea why our Suburban SW12DEL rv water heater does not heat the water like it used to? This is on both the gas and electric use.... dread the thought of replacing the unit... Thanks much!
Excellent video. I need to replace one of the wires and it's connection to the electric thermostat. How can I gain purchase on the wire to replace it? Where does it terminate? Thank you.
I have an issue, my electric side works but for the emergency I wanted to get the propane side to work as well incase I don't have ac power and I couldn't get it to work, solenoid are good, no egnition, there is 12v at the beakers and no gas or even attempts while I turn off electric heater, maybe I'm doing something wrong here
I have a 2008 flagstaff i just bought. The switch inside was on then I cut on the switch at the heater(which was very hard to push) The gas side kicked in then the light on the inside switch would go out. When I would cut it off and back on it would go back out in a few seconds.Now i cant get either to work. Do you have an Idea why?
Noticed that the same Camco or Suburban replacement heating element is also available at Home Depot....it's the same as used on some home water heater tanks. So they make 2 Length elements for the home units....one longer than the stock Suburban one. Both same threads, connection, etc. With the tank being deeper, why couldn't you use the longer element and get an improvement on effeciancy?
I'm hooked up to a 50 amp pedestal however the heater uses propane. I'm thinking I should only see/hear a flame when not connected to shore power right?
The tip of my "plastic cleaner wand" may have broken off in the water heater. I flushed out the water heater by hooking up to city water and just letting it flow for a while. I didn't see the tip come out. Water was clear when I quit. What should I do? How do I know when the anode rod is screwed in tight enough? I don't want to strip the threads.
What size tap would a person use to clean up the threads where the anode rod screws into the tank? I made the mistake of not putting the rod back in before storage and the threads have rusted. Thanks
anode was completely rotted out when i was draining the tank to replace the whole heater it after it started leaking on the bottom of the tank--thanks for that info on anode
Great video, but can you show how the two switches work on the electric side in the rv and on the hot water tank , why can’t I shut down the electric side in the rv ????? I have to go out side to turn the electric side off … The gas works okay ! Thanks for your service and help . G
Have new RV. W heater reaches 130 on both electric and Propane. However when water is used. It turns to tap water temperature in about 3 minutes. Even when propane fires up. Doesn't tail off. It goes from almost hot to tap water temperature. It acts like winter bypass is on. But it isn't. Any thoughts?
My Suburban hot water heater's 120-volt side melted the wire by the temperature sensor that goes to the heating element. I fixed the wire and replaced the sensor only to have it melt the wire again the same day. So I tested the wires and the only thing strange I found was the ground wire that hooks to the heating element had 24 volts and this is with it disconnected from the heating element. Do you have any ideas where the ground would be getting 24 volts from?
Hello i converted my gas to electric and i was told to put the hot rod where the anode rod went now a year later my tank has rusted out im purchasing a new tank where should i put the anode rod if i cant put it in the front do they make a anode pressure relief valve?
Hi sir my rv takes a SW10PE and we ordered that exact part water heater but they sent us an SW10DE. Our old one only has the white, black and ground wires I guess that'd be the 120 vac junction box but we don't have anymore wires in the rv to hook up to the red, blue and green wired for that other junction box.... we've called rv service men but nobody has come out and I'm frustrated!!! Do I just leave that other junction box alone unhooked?
Recently purchased an RV travel trailer with a Suburban water heater. No hot water on our first outing. Consulted with one of my resident RV experts and the Suburban manual. The expert and the manual both say and identify an on/off switch inside the water heater. On mine there is no on/off switch. Is this something new?
Absolutely the best video I have seen yet. We are new to camping and your video gave me the confidence to work on our water heater so thanks for helping us, Ken
You're welcome! Thank you for watching
One of the best videos I have ever watched. Thank you for the great presentation.
Thank you for the kind words and for watching!
Even though I don't understand English, Mister showed everything perfectly!
I very much appreciate the thorough explanation. You answered questions I had and now I’m sure I can get my unit back up and running.
So awesome. You explained this so great! We are having hot water check valve issues and I am so glad I found this video.
Hey partner I just found your channel and want to thank you. You are obviously very mechanical and full of great knowledge that you are willing to share with those of us that are lacking in that category. Thanks again and I will for sure subscribe and watch everything you put out
Thanks for watching!
Thank you. My water heater propane stopped running. Shuts off after a few seconds. My anode was really bad about 6 months ago and I do have a water leak coming from the top combustion chamber. I'm sure we damaged ours not servicing it. I plan to use this as a good learning experience and upgrade from a 10 to a 12 gallon. We have plenty of depth in our RV. Your video was great and I appreciate your time
Thank you for sharing your expertise. MUCH appreciated - I had no idea re: anode rod - i have called my RV dealer to NOT thank them for NOT mentioning this vital piece of information.
Thorough review of the heater operation. Good JOB!
Good job my friend. A lot simpler than I thought.
Excellent video. I learned a great deal in a short time. Thank you.
Man! Fantastic video. Thank you for producing this content. 👍👍
Great walk through, thanks for the training.
Thanks for a thorough explanation. Hope you will continue to post new videos!
Wow, you really know this stuff and are very articulate. Excellent! This is the first site I've subscribed to. TY
Thanks for watching Eric!
Wow Bud thanks so much i have same unit and think i broke my heater Element thought i had water in tank after a winterization buts thankyou for this now saved Very well done instruction
You are the best. Thank you !
Thanks for the video. I'm checking my anode and flushing my tank tomorrow!
Awesome video sir. Perfect tutorial.
good video... learned alot in a quick time. Straight forward.
What a great video. Thank you! All the info we needed and an explanation for every component on the heater. I have a water leak and can't find it. Zero water leaking from lines but a deep from under the heater. I suspect the previous owner didn't replace the annod rod like I do and thats my leak
Your suspicion is justified, probably a hole in the tank.
This video and your explanation are handy! Thanks Pard! 👍🤠🇺🇲
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
This video was totally awesome... now I understand this thing and how to approach fixing it. Thank you Thank you! Like the comment below, I didn't recall the dealer warning me about the anode rod. I can't help but editorialize here on the Suburban product. I don't know why Suburban doesn't put a huge warning label when you open up the screen saying that the anode rod must be regular checked...there certainly is room for it. Instead the only favor they do for me is tell me to check the temperature pressure relief valve every three years and there are warnings for models that I don't even have! They were too cheap to make a special label for individual models.
Excellent video by the way.
i almost said too much info ! but as i kept watching it was great thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thank you great walk through
Very nice video. Thank you!
Best How it works I have found on a Suburban Water Heater. Thanks!
Great to hear!
Great video! I have the same one in six gallon. I’m trying to fix the “DSI Fault” alert right now. That’s why I’m here. Hope this helps! Electric still works fine.
Same. Mine will light but the flame goes out. Works fine on 120v. Sounds like I'm going to order an anoide rod too. And check my burner tube for spider webs.
If you haven’t heard it enough, Great Video!
I have a SW6DEL, and bought Anode bars and noticed that the threading (male) on the rod didn’t screw in all the way. The rods are the same size outer end to outer end, however, the replacement had a bit more, about 1/16-1/8, or two more rounds of threads more. I wish I could upload a picture.
I was concerned about the end making contact with the wall of the tank. Now knowing that is glass, it worries me.
The rod is about 1/8 not screwed flush. I don’t think what I replaced was screwed flush. I’ve seen some videos that show the anode rod being replaced but it’s not detailed enough. The camera pans away.
Last, I have a 1973 Chinook Camper, the water heater was updated within the last year, give or take a few months. Still, I took the anode rod out, not knowing what it was and thinking it was just a way to let out the water for winterizing the camper.
I was hoping to learn if there was a cut valve to prevent the RV antifreeze from getting in the water heater tank. Maybe that’s an add-on on the outside, somewhere near the in source. I know where to look now.
In addition, I am glad that you showed how to remove the gas burner it seems that it’s easier to replace the heating rod/element with the burner out of the way.
Many Thanks!
Robin
Excellent video.
Mine steadily deteriorated and initially took a few fires to get going but got worse till it took several restarts and then just wouldnt start at all. The gas burner actually fired up each time but after a few seconds went out however I noticed the piezo ignitor continued to fire even after the burner lit each time. That mad eme think it was a thermocouple issue that wasnt getting to temperature fast enough after it ignited. After watching several vids on these heaters I removed, realigned and cleaned the ignitor probes which incorporate the thermocouple but while this improved the number of times it took to start the problem persisted. I noticed that the flame was a bit yellow so I cleaned the brass gas jet with about a nunber 61 nozzle file and while that didnt appear to be restricted it did restore the flame to all blue and now it fires up immediately every time for the first time in a very long time. So make sure you clean that jet out along with everything else.
So well explained! Very helpful! Thank you!!!
You're welcome
Exactly what I needed thank you......
Thank you. Really helpful
Excellent video. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Great video. I’m waiting to go to rv tech school and now I have a leg up.
You can do it!
GREAT video.....
Super helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Might be a good idea to cover some of the design differences between Suburban and Dometic/Atwood. Terrific job on the video!
Surely you did 𝐧𝐨𝐭 say he did a bad job on the vid.
Well done !!!!!
Hi, your video was a big help, I have to change out our hot water tank which is 12 gal. suburban. BtY they deleted the switch that you pointed out at the bottom on left side.
That switch is the 120 volt AC switch your new water heater will come with one
Very helpfull just learning
This is great and there appear to be more similar on the channel. You got my subscribe. If you could post a link to flexible drill bit attachment I'd be grateful never seen anything like it.
Changing out my water heater from manual light to a switch light. The water heater has 3 wires coming out of it I’m assuming one is ground then one would go to the switch but not sure about the 3rd. I tested the one it came out of the wires one was 13.7v the other 11.7 and the other I would say ground. I need to add a switch then I can get power from tapping another wire or run to panel.
Great information !!! 👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦👍🔧🔧
Can you do a step by step trouble shooting on the electronic ignighter, and anything that would prevent it from working...I used to flip a switch inside the rv ahead of taking a shower.
Great video. You covered everything except replacing the thermocouple! Any chance of doing that please ?
Thanks for the great video! Im having an issue with my 120v thermostat lower non-resettable pole on my 10 gallon gas/electric suburban hot water heater. My wire going to this poll gets hot enough to melt the insulation off. Voltage is normally around 120v. It usually takes 12-18 months before the wire brakes, usually at the connector. My unit is about 14 years old and still works very good with this one exception. Any thoughts? Thanks for your reply. Dean
Your good. You know how to give info. Will you make a vid on the propane system ?
Thank you for the great video! Is there a test to determine why the propane will light and not stay on. I have cleaned the intake tube but still have a problem Thanks!
Very good videos. I have a question for my rv using propane for the water heater (electric not working) thay's why I used propane. It keeps the propane gas running even though the inside rv switch for propane is turn off. It was frozen last week and I just came back to the rv park. A friend from the rv park told me the problem may be the gas tank that was frozen last week, but stove and even water heater works, but sometimes it keeps running gas even when it stopeed heating. I would appreciate if you help me with this issue. Thank you.
That was great thank you. My question is, how do you select if the water heater is operating on Mains Electricity or Gas ? also you do you turn down the water heater so its not so hot ? Thanks in advance.
Thank you for your time making this video. Excellent. We had a question on our Suburban SW12DELC. The Gas will not spark, unless the water in the tank is cool. So if I leave the electric and gas off at night, the next morning when I turn on the gas, it will spark and start heating. If I don't let the water cool all the way down, the gas will never spark. Do you think it's the board or the 12v thermostat? All the best.
Journeymen caliber you are. Thank you. Ever have a leak from the heating element orifice ? Not even two year old suburban and I have a leak either in the bottom of my tank or the heating oriface.
thank you
Just purchased an SW10DEL directly from Suburban. DIY install planned. Concerning the DEL switch to be mounted inside the coach--it looks like I am to grab 12V DC + from (fill in the blank) location for the positive posts on the "GAS" switch and the "ELECTRIC" switch, and to use the blue wire from the control module to supply 12V DC to the LED light (the gas ignition failure light). Am I correct?
Great video i appreciate ur videos on suberban hot water heaters. i have a sw12del and on my electric I have 120 at the black on off switch but not at the heating element what's in between the 2 that might be the problem. thank u ahead of time
My RV had the electric system messed with. The neutral and power wire was switched. It took a week to figure that out.
Thank you for the video it helped clarify a whole lot! I do have a question: is there a relay switch of sorts? I'm having issues with my water heater and the problem before the switch by the heating element. I cant get any volt reading going to that switch. Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!
Thank you for sharing. If your yank is both propane and electric. Can you just set it for electric and no gas?
Hello again not sure what happened to my earlier comment lol. I have a question about the illuminated “reset” light in our 2004 Everest 293p fifth wheel, what does it mean when its lit up? I turned the breaker off at electrical panel thinking that might reset it but it didn’t. The two reset buttons on tank are not tripped so i have no clue what to check now to reset it
Thank you, why would my water be getting to hot? Also why would 120 connects at the outside switch and the thermostat be burnt? Great video thanks!!
Any thoughts on adding freeze protection to the tank-style water heaters? Suburban offers it on the tankless style. Thanks!
Hello, I have a SW6 DE and I turn the switch on inside the camper, but no longer hear the clicking or see the small red light indicating the igniter is trying to light. Everything is like brand new in this camper, but this was the first few times using LP with the hot water heater always use electric heard about spiders because I had black soot on the outside of my camper. Took an air hose and blew everything out and now the igniter doesn’t work maybe something came loose or is it the whole circuit board. What is your guess lol thank you so much. I found your video more helpful than anything. I found a live full-time and a wolf pup 16 FQ and everything as I mention is like brand new in it but neither of my refrigerator will ignite with LP that’s another story and the hot water heater now will no longer light or click.
Could be a few things, I wouldn't run out and buy a control board with out having a technician diagnose it first.
I could not figure out how to ask a question on the electrical part of a video you posted. What would cause my neutral bar to be hot and not my wires coming from my breaker?
Pretty sure you're wrong about the tstats. The bottom tstat is temperature activated and set to 130F. That's the one regulating the operation of the water heater. Its spring loaded and continuously opens the circuit (at temp) and resets when the WH cools below set temp. Should it fail, the top tstat (also called the ECO) will break the circuit at 180F and that one needs to to be reset manually. There is no one-shot tstat on the Suburban WH as far as I'm aware. You're probably confusing this with the ECO fuse on the Atwood/Dometic which would melt in the event of a backfire from the burn chamber.
Hi Great video !!! Any idea why our Suburban SW12DEL rv water heater does not heat the water like it used to? This is on both the gas and electric use.... dread the thought of replacing the unit... Thanks much!
Excellent video. I need to replace one of the wires and it's connection to the electric thermostat. How can I gain purchase on the wire to replace it? Where does it terminate? Thank you.
I have an issue, my electric side works but for the emergency I wanted to get the propane side to work as well incase I don't have ac power and I couldn't get it to work, solenoid are good, no egnition, there is 12v at the beakers and no gas or even attempts while I turn off electric heater, maybe I'm doing something wrong here
🎉Hello, Very informative!
I am hoping that you can tell me how to wire the 12-volt colored wires to the coach.
Thank you for your video, however need to replace the on / switch for electric heat .. what is the best way to do this ??
I have a 2008 flagstaff i just bought. The switch inside was on then I cut on the switch at the heater(which was very hard to push) The gas side kicked in then the light on the inside switch would go out. When I would cut it off and back on it would go back out in a few seconds.Now i cant get either to work. Do you have an Idea why?
Hi what is the make or model of your ignition board tester? Could you do a video on how the board tester works? Thanks great video
Noticed that the same Camco or Suburban replacement heating element is also available at Home Depot....it's the same as used on some home water heater tanks.
So they make 2 Length elements for the home units....one longer than the stock Suburban one. Both same threads, connection, etc. With the tank being deeper, why couldn't you use the longer element and get an improvement on effeciancy?
AWSOME tHANKS
I just bought a 2015 Keystone with a Dometic 6 gal HWH. It looks pretty rough. Can I swap it out for a Suburban? Also, can I go with a larger tank?
Great job explaining the ac side what about the dc side
I'm hooked up to a 50 amp pedestal however the heater uses propane. I'm thinking I should only see/hear a flame when not connected to shore power right?
I’m powering up a used RV and can’t light water heater. RV has been unused for a few years and in general is pristine.
The tip of my "plastic cleaner wand" may have broken off in the water heater. I flushed out the water heater by hooking up to city water and just letting it flow for a while. I didn't see the tip come out. Water was clear when I quit. What should I do? How do I know when the anode rod is screwed in tight enough? I don't want to strip the threads.
What size tap would a person use to clean up the threads where the anode rod screws into the tank? I made the mistake of not putting the rod back in before storage and the threads have rusted. Thanks
Do you need the 12 volt wires hooked up? my water heater is in a park model, and has no 12 volt system or switches inside the home.
anode was completely rotted out when i was draining the tank to replace the whole heater it after it started leaking on the bottom of the tank--thanks for that info on anode
You're welcome
Is the anode rod tapered? Or the tank opening tapered? Had a hard Time getting new rod started and then binding.
Great video, but can you show how the two switches work on the electric side in the rv and on the hot water tank , why can’t I shut down the electric side in the rv ????? I have to go out side to turn the electric side off … The gas works okay ! Thanks for your service and help . G
How do you measure/adjust the propane pressure of a water heater? Does it have a regulator in the gas valve?
Quentin
Very informative video. Can you tell me the part number for the circuit board tester? Thanks in advance.
Does it have a dip tube or is the check valve work for a dip stick
Correction... It is an Atwood MPD93755
Have new RV. W heater reaches 130 on both electric and Propane. However when water is used. It turns to tap water temperature in about 3 minutes. Even when propane fires up. Doesn't tail off. It goes from almost hot to tap water temperature. It acts like winter bypass is on. But it isn't. Any thoughts?
My Suburban hot water heater's 120-volt side melted the wire by the temperature sensor that goes to the heating element. I fixed the wire and replaced the sensor only to have it melt the wire again the same day. So I tested the wires and the only thing strange I found was the ground wire that hooks to the heating element had 24 volts and this is with it disconnected from the heating element. Do you have any ideas where the ground would be getting 24 volts from?
Amazing thank u
My surburan tank is leak in inside my rv
Hello i converted my gas to electric and i was told to put the hot rod where the anode rod went now a year later my tank has rusted out im purchasing a new tank where should i put the anode rod if i cant put it in the front do they make a anode pressure relief valve?
My gas side works but , experiencing no power at electrode or thermo stat what should i test ? thank you
Hi sir my rv takes a SW10PE and we ordered that exact part water heater but they sent us an SW10DE. Our old one only has the white, black and ground wires I guess that'd be the 120 vac junction box but we don't have anymore wires in the rv to hook up to the red, blue and green wired for that other junction box.... we've called rv service men but nobody has come out and I'm frustrated!!! Do I just leave that other junction box alone unhooked?
Whats the quickest way to clean our the gas conduit feed tube?? Thanks
Recently purchased an RV travel trailer with a Suburban water heater. No hot water on our first outing. Consulted with one of my resident RV experts and the Suburban manual. The expert and the manual both say and identify an on/off switch inside the water heater. On mine there is no on/off switch. Is this something new?
You mentioned a tester for the electronic board. How can I get more info on getting a board tester for my SW10 Suburban.
oh no...my rv is a 2009 and I've never changed the anode rod, didn't even know it was there.