3.5L Duratec/3.7L EcoBoost Timing Chain and Water Pump Replacement
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- čas přidán 11. 02. 2023
- New, updated video coming soon! Link will be below when it's finished!
In this video I show, in detail, how to replace the water pump and timing chains on a 3.5L Ford Duratec engine. The 3.7L EcoBoost is similar, with some differences that should be easy to figure out. The 2 engines shown in this video are out of a 2010 Ford Edge and a 2014 Ford Taurus.
Ford Edge Engine and Transmission Removal:
• Ford Edge Engine/Trans...
3.5L Duratec/3.7L EcoBoost Valve Cover Gasket Replacement:
• 3.5L/3.7L Valve Cover ... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
THAT HAS TO BE ONE OF THE MOST SATISFYING THINGS, STARTING THE CAR UP AND NOT HEARING ANY PROBLEMS OR SEEING ANY LEAKS! MINE IS STILL IN PEICES IN MY DRIVEWAY BECAUSE THIS IS SUCH A MONSTER OF A JOB! 💔
Have you managed to get it back together yet?
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel I'M NOT GOING TO LIE, I ENDED UP JUST SCRAPPING THE CAR.💔 IT JUST BECAME TOO BIG OF A NIGHTMARE AND I DIDN'T HAVE THE TIME OR THE ENERGY TO PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER. 😩
I’m a new subscriber. That you for this video. I wish I’d found you three weeks ago. My coolant dumped out of my 2013 Ford Flex three weeks ago. I pulled over immediately and called my mechanic, who said he couldn’t do the water pump because he didn’t have the “tool” to hold the cams. Hmmm, well I called a few Ford dealerships and they both said that a job like that: they were booking a month and a half out. Huh? What the hell? Well I found a shop that would do the job and it was $1600 all in. Fine. I want to thank you for this step by step video, which I watched beginning to end, and I’m so pissed off that my mechanic said he didn’t have the cam holders that I bought a set from Amazon a few minutes ago just because. I don’t work on my cars anymore but I collect tools because I like tools and now I have a set. No one said anything about cam phasers. Thank you for showing me which tool to buy for the cams. Best Regards
You're welcome. Like I showed in the video, technically you don't even need the tools, it just makes it way easier. Sounds like that mechanic doesn't know how to do the job, or doesn't want to. Even if he didn't have the tool, as you proved, Amazon can help that quickly. Now that you have the tool, if you ever need them, you have them. Maybe it's time to start working on car again.
Followed your post , 2013 explorer 3.5 eco boost,,, did it in the car not a lot of room but doable .. great job with the details
Your channel is definitely underrated, you provide quality content and are super helpful, deserve a lot more subscribers!!
I appreciate that! It's gone further than I ever expected it to for sure though. Comments like this one definitely fuels the fire to keep going!
The best timing chain replacement video out here, used it to replace my timing chain on 2008 edge. Thanks a lot!
Thanks for the compliments! It may make the videos boring at times, but I try to include details of jobs that other people may miss. I'm glad it helped you!
Nice job explaining the steps ,, just wrapping up timing chain kit,,
This is a great video and you explaining everything pretty good
Won't be buying a Ford 3.5/3.7 V6 that's for,sure Have to admit this guy knows his stuff Very impressed! My mechanic of 20 years said he doesn't to these Need special tools and phasers need to be perfect No money in it too Give you 14 to 16 hours Great job my man!
The water pump is only on the inside for the front wheel drive models. The 3.3/3.5/3.7 rear drive models, F150 and Mustang, have external water pumps.
Hey guy, This was an outstanding video!! Very detailed! Very accurate and by the book the way it should be done! Thank you for sharing the info.🙏🙏👍👍
Thank you! Comments like this are why I started making these videos, and will continue to do so!
It's a big job.....this guy did it. Excellent
Thanks! I actually have a new, probably better, video on this job recorded, I just haven't had the time to edit and post it yet.
Excellent video! Best of it's kind I've seen.
Thank you! This video took the longest to edit out of all of them I currently have. It took literally days of work before I was happy with it. It seems to have paid off.
So i learned how to do this in school its very easy to do outside the vehicle but my school never taught me how to do it in a vehicle 😭 the struggle is real but great video very informative
It is definitely possible to do it in the vehicle. I've done it, but with the lack of room, it sucks! Thanks for the compliments!
Bravo!!!! this is a crazy job! WOW!! But you did a great job!!!!
Thank you! Eventually I'll have a new, probably better video on this job on here. It's already recorded, I just haven't had the time go edit and post it.
Dark horse, EXTREMELY helpful video, very thorough! When using the scuff pad to clean the mating surfaces I noticed small surface scratches that aren't deep by any means, but I am in the middle of doing this job and want to make sure I am not creating leak points. I bought the same purple looking scuff pad, please reply and let me know if this is normal. Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for the compliments! Helping people is why I started making these videos.
Tiny little scratches will be visible. As long as its just cosmetic you've got nothing to worry about. The silicone will fill those in. I always recommend making the final pass perpendicular to the way fluid would leak out as well, just to be sure.
@darkhorseautoanddiesel I want to thank you for this video as it helps me understand this engine. I've noticed, that timing cover seems to be covered in engine oil mixed with dust - do you know what was the reason? I have oil leaks close to the both cylinder heads junction with timing cover ('V' shaped place on top of the cover) as well as close to the belt tensioner and I wonder if this might be timing cover sealant issue...
Do you know what fel-pro gasket set you used that contained the phaser solenoid manifold seals? I'm preferring to the 1 oring and 3 split seals that you mentioned came in the valve cover gasket set and not in the timing set. All the pics I see of the fel-pro valve cover gasket set do not show those seals. FEL-PRO VS50767R is the kit I see
My 2014 Ford Explorer Sport (turbo/Ecoboost) just had this timing job done. Ford did it (no one else would). 17 hrs labor. The tech did it with the engine in the car (thats the way he does it, apparently). Did a good job; runs really smooth now. Chain had jumped some teeth and I had 5 codes thrown. Expensive! I also had spark plugs and water pump done. I had a 2013 Explorer that needed a water pump, and for that they dropped the engine out and did it on the floor in less than a day. Timing chain and a few other parts as well. Stupid design.
How much for the job
How much buddy? I got one in my Taurus
@@traviswatson3810 Hang on to your hats, boys! I'm in Canada, so adjust your dollar values. I also had all 6 plugs and the water pump done while it was all apart. $4,400 cdn before tax.
I did all that myself and spent 800
I have a 2012 ford explorer that threw a code for an advance timing on bank 2. How would i get it back into time before tearing it all down before hand? Would i just put the tool that holds the cams still on and spin it till they sat flush? Thanks in advance, really great video as well
Soo Im confused af. Ive got a 2011 mkz 3.5l, doing water pump/timing. Only the single roller water pump fits, but all the parts stores I order from to get the phasers are giving me the second gen phasers?? The double roller chain doesnt fit on the single roller water pump, and Ive yet to find a single roller chain, but wouldn't the single roller chain not fit on the thick teeth from the second gen phasers? Im really chasing my tail here, any help on this would be great
Thanks man!!!
Just a heads-up, as it relates to a recent query @rockwitdom9765. Early models from 2011, particularly the MKS, were equipped with the older 2010 engines. Mid-year, Ford shifted to next-generation engines. The timing components of the later 2011 builds underwent significant changes, including a wider chain, broader guides, a redesigned upper tensioner, a two-sprocket water pump, and extra phasers. You can identify the engine variant by counting the VVT solenoids on the valve cover (you might need to remove the cover for certainty). My car, a 2011 MKS 3.7 Base, manufactured in May 2010, has two VVT solenoids, one visible on each valve cover. When sourcing my engine parts, I've learned that referencing the 2010 MKS is more reliable. The dealership, using VIN, doesn't take into account the vehicle build date, often resulting in wrong parts. Anyway, I'm planning to undertake this job later in the month, including the oil pump.
The video was excellent, especially the part about identifying the new, longer guide bolt, which I couldn't find elsewhere. I'm considering a one-month subscription to ALLDATA DIY for the torque specs (for the 2010 MKS) and to verify the procedures. Thanks again for the effort put into making this video!
I have an 2011 ( build date 8-10 I would like to order parts in advance of starting the job but can find data on which chain sprockets this car takes . HELP
Hi I need to do this on my 2014 Mazda cx9 it come with the 3.7 but I can’t find the kit with all the components I can only find the one like for $195.00 with only tensioners sprockets and chains I check rock auto and no full kit
Nice camera work.
Thanks. I'm trying to get better at that, I'm sure I've improved since I started doing this.
Hi can i move the crankshaft alone against clockwise while the chain off to put it on the 4 o’clock position for ford explorer 2019 ? Actually need about 180° turn against clockwise to reach to its point
Can I
Thank you so much
I'm not an expert but i would think that both the cam shaft and crank shaft should be moved together attached with chain, or by same angle(?) else you risk causing the pistons to hit the valves (since this is an interference engine).
That's what my MKT needs. Since it's only gonna take about an hour and a 1/2 I think I'll do it.
This was a cloyes kit and have heard bad things about using non OEM phasers but noticed that there are ford OEM part numbers on some of the parts you were showing. Any idea if those phasers are OEM?
I have no idea. Cloyes does make factory parts for some vehicles I believe, so it could be possible that the Motorcraft parts and Cloyes are literally the same. That would require some research to confirm or deny though.
The engine that I showed that was done in the car, the customer didn't want to replace the phasers due to the cost, so those are likely factory originals (with over 200k on them now).
Quick question if you went ahead and took the heads all apart but now are going to reassemble it do you put the DOHC's in the natural position meaning the barcode on each cam has to be facing up? Then install the phasers back in the 11 clock ,1 clock, and 4 clock?
I don't recall any barcodes on the cams so I'm not sure what you mean with that. However, as far as orienting the cams, if the tools fit they are either correct or 180 degrees off. If they are off, you'll know as soon as you try to put the sprockets on them because the sprockets only go on the correct way. If the timing marks aren't in the right position once the sprockets are on, then you'll know the cams are off by half a turn.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel ahh okay thanks for getting back to me! I’m doing a 700hp build for the 3.7l with a 67/66 turbo. Sending the block to get a closed deck conversion and then when it gets back I’m putting it all together. But I’ve been doing research on how to put the camels back on etc. so this helps a lot🙌🏻 thanks!
@@CameronAlvarado That sounds like one heck of a build! I'd be interested to see that in action.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel haha it'll be all over my socials if you wanna stay up to date!
Unfortunately I don't use any socials 😂 I have a personal Facebook page but even that rarely get used. Like once or twice a year I log into it.
I've only ever done inline-4 engines. Mostly 2.2 ecotec. I think it would be wise now, to go ahead and replace the headgaskets. On a V6 can I come back later and leave the timing alone to do the gaskets or would I have to disassemble the timing again?
If the head gaskets are fine there is no reason to replace them. That is just asking for more problems. If you mess up, now you've got a head gasket leak that you didn't have before. Head gaskets can last decades and hundreds of thousands of miles. As long as the engine never gets over heated and the cooling system is maintained fairly well (to prevent corrosion), there really isn't any reason for failure on a well designed engine. They aren't considered a wear item.
On an overhead cam engine, the timing components have to be removed to replace the head gasket since the cams are on top. So no, you can't replace the head gasket and leave the timing alone on this engine. On an over head valve (cam in block) engine you can, but those are rare these days in automotive applications.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel thanks 👍
What size bolt did you use for the guide on the RH side ? I’m gonna have to do the same
Whatever size the one I got from the dealer is. I never measured it. The part number is in the video, I don't know it off the top of my head. It was only a couple dollars.
Could someone tell me all the parts needed for the water pump and timing chain replacement
Valve cover gasket .etc
In the video at relevant points I talk about all the parts I used, including many of the part numbers. I bought most of it from Rock Auto. I bought a Cloyes timing set and Motorcraft water pump from there, and the TTY bolts from my local Ford dealership. Valve cover set was a Felpro, also from Rock Auto.
I have an 2018 explorer with only 48 k water pump went bad dealer charge me 2800 to fix it so i decided do it myself there is any way you could tell me whats the torque for the intake manifold my is aluminum not plastic or where can i get the sheets for that thanks you video help me a lot
Manifold torque should be the same. You can do a quick Google search to confirm, but I see no reason it'd be different. I've never worked on one like that though so I could be mistaken.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel thanks so much i did google but I didn’t find anything
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel i did over torque the water pump in tease of 45 i did 90 but tomorrow ill fix ill get new gasket and change it i dont wanna do it again is a pain
For a single phaser 3.7 (2010 Mks), here is the secondary sprocket torque sequence from ALLDATA: 30 ft lbs > Loosen one full turn> 89 in lbs > 90 degrees. As this information conflicts with the video, I'm confused if ALLDATA is correct
I believe alldata is correct. At the time I made this video I was unaware that the 3.7 used a different torque spec. Unfortunately, that I'm aware of, there's no way to edit a video to add info once it's published. The problem is, if I edit the video on my computer and repost it, it acts as a totally new video so it goes back to the bottom of the search pile.
I do have a new, updated video on this job recorded, I just haven't had the time to edit and post it yet. I recorded it just this last week 😆
Yes, if I went to 180 something might have broke...90 is super tight. The single phaser motor has short bolts. Dual phasers are at least twice as long...infering more torque.
@@BlueSkies-pd9og Well the 3.5 in the video, the main one, was a single phaser, and it called for 180. What are the part numbers for the bolts on the motor you worked on? That may shed some light on this. If they're the same part number, maybe it doesn't actually matter?
2010 Ford official manual agrees with alldata procedure for the 3.5 non ecoboost
So, after taking it that far apart to replace the water pump, why didn’t you also check the valve clearances?
Nylon wheel from harbor freight is where it's at for cleaning your surfaces imo
I will definitely look into that. I'm always looking for ways to improve.
I own two for Ford Fusion Sports. Guess how many times I have had to do this repair with the engine in the car?
I'm gonna guess 2 🤣
Glad to hear that doing in the car is possible for fusion sports. I am facing water pump issue for my fusion sports, any thing I should be watching out? I heard it’s super tight. I am debating if I want to break the bank or break my mind with this repair since I don’t want to give up on the car yet.
"Buschhh......." Great tutorial.
Love the video. I have a 3.7 ford explorer police utility. I’m going to rebuild the engine but not with the stock stuff. I want to put all high performance stuff but don’t know what to get like what cam I should install to add more hP?
Thank you.
I'm not sure on stuff like cams. I've never looked at any performance parts for these engines.
Any idea how many miles on this engine to need this kind of repair?
This one had about 190,000 miles, but it was still working fine. The engine was already out of the vehicle so I did this as a preventative measure. It's a pain to do once in the vehicle.
how long did your cloyes kit last?? most last about 8000 miles...
Both engines shown in the video are still running perfectly fine and they've been on the road for over a year now, with over 15k miles each.
I put a cloyes kit on a 4.0L SOHC Explorer (notorious for timing chain failures) over 4 years ago and it's still going fine with over 30k miles.
Maybe I'm lucky, but the rest of my life says otherwise 🤣
The timing cover is hard to remove, but there are 4 threaded pass through holes near the dowels down low and 2 near the top that are there to drive yhe cover off without cracking. The holes just use the timing bolts, so save your self replacing the timing cover and use those go around and work them all little by little till it pops clear.
I have another one of these coming in the shop in a week or so, I'll look for those.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesellook at 15:50 timestamp. There is 2 bosses sticking out with threaded holes at the bottom of timing cover between the inner and outer 2 bolt holes both sides. Those are 2. Then look either side above the 3 bolt hole up from the bottom. There is another set of bosses sticking out with threaded holes. Those are you're self pry holes. They take the same cover bolts you just took out, thread in and just apply even pressure and walk them all in until the cover pops.
@@darkhorseautoanddieselAlso, I don't recommend it but there is a crank lock tool that goes in the crank sensor hole. It's not worth the extra work to do vs just keeping the cams locked.
@@edgeofvampDefinitely gonna try that. I plan on making another, hopefully better, video of this job on the next one, I'll be including this trick in that video. Thank you! We are always learning.
@@edgeofvamp The crank tool would alleviate the stress on the chain when tightening the crank pulley bolt though.
i got a 3.7. how long did it take to do the job with engine removed.?
That's hard to answer because I really don't keep track of the actual time I spend working on things. However if I were to take a guess, that guess assuming consistently working on it (which I typically don't, I work at a leisurely pace and triple check about every step) I'd say even never having done it before but following along with my video you could probably get it done in 8 hours or less pretty easily.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel thanks it looks pretty easy with the engine out. I might take it to the shop to do it so i kinda want to know the time it takes to do all this work with engine out. Also, my coolant leak into the engine. I discovered it when a P0016 code . I check the coolant resevoir..it was empty. The engine never overheated or seized up. I only cranked the engine up to back out the parking space for tow truck. Do you think it can be save the engine with new waterpump? The dealer told me I have to get a new engine. But I think they didn't even do a proper diagnostic. They said I got sludge in the engine because I didnt do oil changes. I told them bs..they didnt want to admit the water pump leak.
The P0016 is a timing issue, specifically Bank 1 camshaft is out of time. That can get catastrophic VERY quickly. Stretched chain, broken guide, bad tensioner, or a bad phaser or soleniod can all cause that. Could also be a bad sensor. Your best bet is to replace all of it.
The empty coolant reservoir, where did the coolant go? Did it leak out of the weep hole in the block (located on the left side, front on front wheel drive vehicles, of the engine near the front) or did it end up in the crank case? If it went out of the weep hole, there won't be any internal damage from coolant contamination. If it went into the engine, depending on how long you ran it that way, it might be salvageable.
The apparent sludge in the engine might be from coolant contamination. If that is the case, it's a gamble. They are well built engines, but everything has its limits. You can take your chances and try installing a new water pump, chains, phasers, solenoids, guides, and tensioners (everything really) and hope for the best, or play it safe(ish) and get another engine, and while it's out, replace all of that stuff on that engine before installing it.
TL;DR: If you have coolant contamination in the oil, as long as you didn't run it very long, then it's probably ok. By not long, I mean a few minutes. The longer it ran that way, the more potential damage is done.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel most definitely the coolant spill into the crankcase. I got milkshake oil.
I probably drove 30 miles to my destination. No CHeck engine light came on or my temperature went up. I turn off car for 5 minutes then turn back on.. The P0016 code appear. My obd2 said camshaft sensor. I drove down the block 3 min to shopping center. Got out and noticed puddle under car. Checked the coolant reservoir. It was empty.. There was coolant on outside of engine block on the oil pan. I guess it came out the weep hole. I towed it to dealer to check. Thry just told me i got sludge in engine and need new engine. They didn't really tell me what's wrong. But I know it was the waterpump fail. So basically my engine never overheated cause i monitor engine temperature with my obd2. It was around 190 to 200 degrees at the time. I got a P0016 code and milkshake oil.
There's 197,000 miles on engine. It's a 2014 Cx-9 3.7L. I read it's a ford engine.
Is camshaft sensor easy to change.?
@@maolo76 Ooooh... You can take your chances putting new parts on that engine, but that's a lot of time spent driving with a milkshake in the crank case. I really can't give you much of an opinion on what to do. On one hand, it might be fine for a long time after replacing those parts, but on the other hand, that's a lot of money in parts just to throw at an engine that might throw a rod within days of doing all that work. It's definitely a gamble.
The code may have showed up because the milkshake oil might have ruined the phaser on that side, just a guess. Just because the reservoir is empty doesn't mean that there still isn't plenty of coolant left in the system to keep the engine at the proper temperature. You can actually be pretty low on coolant before the engine will overheat when driving normally.
Unfortunately I don't know everything about cars and trucks, but based on my knowledge and the research I've done, yes, it is a Ford engine. That means you can get a 3.7 out of a salvage yard from a ford likely cheaper than one that came out of a Mazda. The cam sensors aren't terribly difficult to replace if I remember correctly, but unfortunately I think you probably have bigger problems than just a sensor.
Do you have a part number or web address for the kit you used?
The part number will vary based on the year and model, so giving you that might be pointless. I can tell you though, that I got all the stuff from rockauto.com. Select your year, make, and model, then read through the selections and find what you wanna buy. If you've never heard of them, I can tell you that they're legit. I've done tens of thousands of dollars of business with them. So much that my shop fridge is half covered in magnets from them since they send you a magnet with most orders haha.
On the engine you have out of the vehicle with one cam phaser on each side did you only put one new bolt on each side of the motor? With The new bolt going into the phaser on each side of the motor?
No, it got new bolts on the exhaust cams as well. Even though it's not holding a phaser on, it is still a torque to yield bolt, so it should be replaced.
@darkhorseautoanddiesel thank you for replying!! When you was going over the part numbers the ones on the sheet of paper said there were only 2 bolts. Are the part numbers the same for all 4 bolts? 2 intake and 2 exhaust bolts?
@darkhorseautoanddiesel I'm working on my 2010 ford edge limited awd 3.5l v6
@darkhorseautoanddiesel getting the correct part numbers is what's throwing me off. 10/10 video though, very informative.
I had to watch that part of the video again 🤣 I realize now that I never gave the part number for the intake cam for the single phaser engines since it came with the kit. Your Ford dealer can get it for you easily though when they order the part. I'll have to include that number in the new improved video I'm working on for this job.
The part number I gave for the single phaser engine is the exhaust cam bolt.
With that AWD system, check out my video on changing the oil in the PTU. You want to change that oil, trust me.
How come you don't line up the orange links and the white link with the timing marks on the timing gears, When you're setting TDC? Does it matter??
I'm a little lost on what you're saying. I lined up all the colored links to the appropriate marks on the gears. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're asking?
@darkhorseautoanddiesel. When you set TDC at first. I see you set the timing marks, but the old chain , those orange links don't line up? Also, the updated part, does the new bolt tighten down on the steel sleeve or does it touch the outer plastic guide because when I tighten it down, I can move the updated part in and out?
@@mrboots066oh you're talking the initial TDC setting. Makes sense now. The marks on the chains only matter during the installation of the chain when new. Technically you don't even have to use them then, but they serve as a great indicator that everything is actually timed properly. Once the engine has been turned after timing has been set, it could potentially take hundreds of turns before the marks on the chain line back up with the marks on the sprockets.
So as far as setting TDC for disassembly, the marks on the chain mean nothing, the only marks that matter are the cams and crank.
@@mrboots066the updated part, you are referring to the right hand upper guide I assume? Did you get the new bolt that you have to use with it? It should tighten down just like shown I'm the video as long as everything is in the correct locations and using the correct parts. The bolt should tighten down the sleeve insert in the guide.
@@mrboots066I believe it only tightens down on the sleeve, but I've never looked close enough to notice if the head overlaps any of the plastic. Either way though, once the 2 bolts for that guide are tightened, that guide should not move. If yours does, that tells me that the sleeve is loose in the guide.
What brand of parts are you using?
What was the "delicate green wire"?
Apparently it is for the pressure switch on the power steering pump. I'm not actually sure, that's just what I've heard. I suppose I could look in the service manual wiring schematics and see what I come up with, but even that might not give me a solid answer.
By the way, if you have electric power steering, you won't have that wire.
Identifix says on the 3.5 non ecoboost final stage to stretch only 90 degrees. On the 3.7 it says 180 degrees. What instructions are you using? It looks like your bolt didn’t break on the 3.5 so that’s good..
I was using a Chilton's manual as well as several online sources (whatever Google search led me to). Both engines in the video are still running perfectly fine so if they are wrong it must not be too detrimental haha.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel please don’t think I was correcting you. I was noticing the same things online everyone says 180 final torque. I did mine at 90 but wonder if it actually is correct.. 🤷
I decided to call Ford directly with the VIN of my vehicle.. it’s a 2010 Lincoln MKX with the non ecoboost 3.5. They looked up the manual from Ford and it says final stretch 90 degrees.. so there must be some variances in those years.. I believe the 3.7 is 180 so just a little more information on these engines.. thanks
@@lumberjackgarage193 no offense taken. I have no problem being corrected when needed. I actually appreciate it. I'd rather not be one of those people out there spreading false information. I will do some research on that and make a video update and link to it in the original. I'd add it to the original but as far as I know CZcams isn't set up to allow adding to an already published video, and they way their algorithm works, I don't want to remove this one. Thank you! Honestly I don't know why they even put TTY bolts on those parts, they lock in place. TTY makes sense on something like the notorious 4.0L SOHC V6 that has nothing but friction to hold the sprockets in place, which was a stupid idea on its own.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel I agree, I was originally thinking my instructions were incorrect but since Ford confirmed them it made me feel better.. I watched so many other videos and forums. They all said 180 degrees.. it seems like the 3.5 ecoboost does call for 180 degrees to make it more confusing.. good luck though and thanks for the videos.. 👍
Why are the internals gold?
It's the way the oil burned and tarnished the inside of the engine. It's a copperish brown
What do you torque the bigger gears too I’m doing mine and I’m at a stalemate
@@cob32187 the phasers but I looked online got my interceptor running
The truck are outside water pumps am.i wrong???
You are not wrong. On front drive applications this engine uses the internal pump, likely due to packaging restraints, whereas rear drive applications use an external pump. I really wish they would have figured out how to package the front drive versions with an external pump. But on the bright side, Ford's stupid decision has helped my bank account. 🤣
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel how did it help you bank account??
@@user-gm4lc2ym8p Getting paid to replace them. Also the small fraction of a penny I make every time someone watches this video haha
Que millage tenia el taurus?
Un poco menos de 200k.
My timing chain has been done 4 times already still not timed right been having to do inside the car because I have no other choice. Its a pain in the ass . I keep getting codes that my timing is over retarded or over advanced. I got 17 codes all on the timing/crankshaft/camshaft. Some of the codes are repeats. Can any one give me advice ? Plz help.
Heave you looked at the cam n crank sensors
@@user-jj3ks4tq3g nope but i will check , also put the reader on my car says something about timing 10° . Camshaft 1
Anyone in comments finished this job? I’ve read where people say to replace the oil pump while you have this apart because it’s near the timing chain
There is nothing wrong with doing the oil pump while you're in there, I've just never felt it to be necessary. If the engine looks reasonably maintained, i.e. no sludge buildup, and has good oil pressure, the pump shouldn't have anything wrong with it.
....and i was very close to buying a 2020 Lincoln Continental.
Until i learned this about these engines.
If the Lincoln dealer doesn't give me a deal on a Ford Extended Warranty the deal is off.
What kind of miles can you expect before having to do this??
Technically you should never have to, since, according to Ford (and every other manufacturer), the chains and and associated components are "good for the life of the engine". Unfortunately that is typically not the case for just about any overhead cam engine, unless you consider timing chain/chain component failure to be the end of its life.
There are 2 different engines shown in this video. The main one (the one outside of the vehicle) showed no signs of any issues at nearly 200,000 miles. The only reason I did them was because I was swapping the engine from one vehicle into another, and it is way easier to replace the stuff outside the car than in it, and the car was going to a friend of mine that is a single mother of 2 kids, with no spare vehicle to drive in the event of a breakdown, so reliability was of utmost importance.
The other one (in the vehicle) had a water pump leak at around 180,000 miles, and since the chains have to come off to replace the water pump, might as well replace those as well. On this engine, the chains and all associated components appeared to be in good shape, with no signs of imminent failure.
So to answer your question, it's a crap shoot. I really don't have a solid answer. With these engines, it seems that the water pump failing is the biggest concern, and you might as well replace the chains and related parts while you're in there because it is a pain of a job to do. I personally have never seen a timing component failure on one, but that is definitely not to say that it can't or hasn't happened.
I wish I could give a decent answer, but unfortunately I can't.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel thanks for the thought out answer!!
@@Bear1097 you're welcome. Sorry I couldn't give you anything more definite.
You won't until water pump leaks
@@Shmish_smorsonIn probably 99% of cases, you are probably right. Unlike the 4.0L SOHC made in the 2000's, they seem to have actually done a decent job designing these chains and components. I'm sure there has been a few chain failures, but I've never had to deal with one. It's pretty much always the stupid water pump.
Wow that's a big job how can you tell if it needs timing chains what codes or is it lose
The most common sign of timing chain issues is a rattle at startup. There can be codes as well, however I don't have a list on hand of what possible codes would indicate failure. However, usually the chains don't fail on these engines. I'm not saying they never fail, because I'm certain there has been failures, but I've personally never seen it. Usually the chains get replaced during a water pump replacement because the chain has to come off just to get to the pump. So since it had to come off, and getting to them is obviously a major job, it recommended to just replace it all while you're in there.
It seems like that crankshaft harmonic balancer is a real nightmare.
3.7 ecoboost?
I didn't know they made a 3.7 ecoboost either and I was a ford tech for 20+yrs 😂
@@gopaulsalick507 does putting F150 manifold and turbocharger on to a 3.7 Cyclone count as a 3.7 ecoboost? If so I have one in my Mustang making 520 whp.
Why is the inside of his motor bronze colored?
It had nearly 200k miles on it. Just stained from oil.
31:38
😂😂😂 As a man there usually is a lot of hand work!
I can not imagine trying this in the vehicle.
It's possible, I've done it, but it sucks!
Wow...That generator is not the OAP type..
Nope, for which I am thankful. Just one more component that can fail in my opinion. Complexity is the enemy of reliability.
at 15:24, the duratech designers put holes on the timing cover so you can pry the timing cover with the bolts and not the pry bar. cool huh?
On certain ones. I didn't realize that when I made this video, and the main engine in it had them. However several engines I've done since, newer ones, don't have the holes. Definitely cool, as long as they exist.
They did that because you need to pull it so many times to replace the pump every 80000 miles, or leak and die.
Same engineers put the waterpump inside of the engine.
Very well explain video beery good job . I don think i want to guet my hands on something like this too much work just for a water pump. I agree, one more stupid design from ford. More miney for mechanics
Thanks for the compliments! It is a big job and a lot of work. I agree that it is a very stupid design. I'm not gonna lie though, I've made a few dollars thanks to their bad engineering decision.
10:18 looks like anybody doing this, you want to remove dipstick first.
The sad thing is, I've done several of these since making this video (even have another, possibly better, video currently in the editing stages), including one last weekend, and I still tried to pull the valve cover before pulling the dipstick out.. 🤣
Literally had 3 gallons of water come out the oil pan
Ouch, I'd say that motor is toast.
Got those motors down to the tee with them in the car not to bad to do I make good money off them
I've been making some money off them too! I've done several more since I made this video.