How to Replace Skidoo rotary Valve Seals. Stop Injector Oil Leak
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Here is how to replace the Rotary Valve Seals on a Ski-Doo Snowmobile Engine. If your Ski-doo is leaking oil on the floor and there are no split hoses on the ski-coo, it is likely you Rotary Valve Seals behind the water pump. Most people think you need to split the crank case to replace these seals, but Gravy Davey on Doo Talk has found a way to do this with normal shop tools while the motor is still in the snowmobile. It only took about an hour to replace and the parts are very inexpensive. Here is what you will need:
2 Oil Seals - Part #420850711 - $ 14.49 ea
1 Rubber Washer - Part #420850890 - $ 3.99
1 Shim - Part # 420944462 - $1.99
1 Plate - Part # 420827970 - $ 13.99
Prices are in Canadian dollars from my local Ski-Doo Dealer
This was performed on a 1995 Ski Doo Formula SS 670 but the rotary valve is identical on other Rotax SkiDoo models like the Formula Z, Formula DLX, Formula 3 III, MXZ, Touring, 377, 440, 583, 600, 670, 700, and 800 models.
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#mudbrats#howto#skidoo#skidoorepair#oilleak#oil#rotaryvalveseals#leak
Great video . These old classics are still around
i kinda want to find another 670 formula or mxz
Still coming back to this video after 5 years haha. Great job guy, I had the same problem on the exact same sled....fixed that problem thanks to you
Man I love these comments! Thank-you so much!
Thank you so much for sharing I followed your recommandations and viewers useful comments on my Ultralight gyrocopter Rotax 582. The only difference is that rotax plugged the weephole and asks to fill the cavity between the 2 seals with grease. All the rest is similar. It solved a milky oil symptom in the RV tank 👍🛠
very cool! glad it helped you!
Wow this is a great video, I was able to resolve my oil leak which I feared was actually the inner crank seals, but was not. A couple of things that helped me in my efforts: When removing the large metal cap behind the gears, I used the spring puller I have for removing the spring on the exhaust. My puller is small and has a hooked end and since it has a handle I was able to apply significant force to pull it out with out any drilling. Also I tried a 1 1/8 socket to hammer it back in as in the video, but in my case the edges of my socket were thinner and did not quite create a tight fit within the metal cap so I ended up bending the cap and had to order another one. I used a 1 1/4 which fit perfectly. The point is make sure the socket you use has no play and fits perfectly in the cap otherise you'll begin wrapping the cap around the socket and warp the metal cap so it doesn't fully seat into the space. Thanks so much for posting this video!
thanks for the great words and the tips! i really appreciate it!!
Well here goes nothing about to tackle my 95 670 touring SE. This video was a huge confidence booster!! I just bought the sled and didn't notice everything wrong with it I've been working on it the last 2 weeks... when I have time and missed are first 26in snow storm here in Coeymans hollow NY will post results
Well I found that if you put a little bit bigger of a screw in the water pump washer and then *PUT A BLOCK OF WOOD* across engine to protect rotory shaft you can use a roofing pry bar to grab the head of the screw and use the pry bar for leverage on the block of wood she popped rite out (tried screw with pliers first no luck).. first and only one I've done 25 year old machine. It either will works perfect.... or maybe I just got lucky.... idk but if I had to do another I wood instantly go for pry bar screw and a block of wood.
Thank you so much man your a lifesaver, I’m 16 and just bought my first sled it’s a 1997 skidoo mxz 500 with the same engine yours 670 has just obviously smaller, I was devastated when i pulled it over after I handed a guy a few hundred bucks and it was so stiff to pull over you can’t get spark. I’ve narrowed it down to a water pump bearing and a crank bearing, it would help so much if you could tell me how to get that last bearing out. Thank you so much and I can’t wait to get sledding
Crank bearing you will need to spilt the cases... its a big job 😬
Yeah it will be tough if that’s what it is, hopefully it’s just the water pump bearing but you never know.
Good job I think this is why I have oil under my engine
have a look and let us know
What is the shiny new bolt to the lower left side of the water pump hosing? My engine does not have a bolt in that place and I was wondering if someone could tell me what it's purpose is....thanks!
Not sure without looking it up. There are tons of parts breakdowns/fiche online so I will leave you to do that homework and let us know. Google ‘skidoo parts first’ and you’ll find breakdowns and listings
Nice video bud,just noticed a water pump cover drip while running on my 97 Mxz 670. Weep hole drip = same repair I,d guess! Thanx for posting!
+Mrmoparrr thats where it starts. Its a pretty easy and inexpensive fix
I bought a couple of 89 formula mx sleds and I noticed oil coming under one of the sleds I took the carburetors off and the crank case was full of oil. When pulling it over oil keeps pouring out, the reservoir is almost empty. would this be the same issue??
not sure you should be able to see it dripping from the water pump weep hole
Not sure if you still check in on this one, but I went through the steps outlined in your video (great video by the way). Unfortunately, my repair for a small leak has turned into an oil-tank-emptying leak. Any thoughts on where I went wrong? Obviously I am going to have to do it again, and I may find my error, but if anyone has any thoughts on obvious places I may have went wrong please let me know. Thasnk.
sorry to hear that. You may have the seal in backwards or not positioned properly
hello
hope someone can help me, my rotary valve oil tank gets water or coolant in it, any idea how to fix this?
thank u in advance
that doesnt sound good. Best to tear it down or find a decent mechanic
what about the seal on the valve side (carb side)?
i didnt need to change that one, but if you do, u need take it all apart the proper way
Keep up with maintinence and theyll go a long way
👍
where does it leak? in front of motor under exhaust side or under carbs?side?
Ed milewski thats under the exhaust side - at the water pump...
I have a 1986 skidoo formula SP it has a 463 Rotax Type 462 Rotary valve liquid cooled Twin and I was wondering if these parts would work. The water pump looks the same as the one on my 462 Type
possibly - you would be best to check a parts diagram
Thanks. Process of elimination
I will start with the head gasket and see how that works.
Should this be done in a heated garage or does it matter being done in the cold?
Well I found that if you put a little bit bigger of a screw in the water pump washer and then *PUT A BLOCK OF WOOD* across engine to protect rotory shaft you can use a roofing pry bar to grab the head of the screw and use the pry bar for leverage on the block of wood she popped rite out (tried screw with pliers first no luck).. first and only one I've done 25 year old machine. It either will works perfect.... or maybe I just got lucky.... idk but if I had to do another I would instantly go for pry bar screw and a block of wood
Great tip! Thanks for sharing and glad to help!
I also now know why the video skips forward when putting water pump washer In...lol it took me over an hour a farting around very aggravating to say the least I bought my kit on ebay that may of been the problem.. I would definitely recommend OEM or just be aware it will most definitely be a fight but a necessary evil and yes I did clean everything spotless and lubricated washer and block
Thank you! ordering parts now...
Any idea what would make the crankcase fill with oil? on a rotary valved 583/670.
gotta be a seal
@@mudbrats hmmm. I wonder what seal? I was thinking maybe carb needle and seat letting gas into the lower crank case mixing with oil, or injection pump not shutting off?
@@GearheadRob319 yes there is 3 possible spots for oil to leak into crankcase...2 of which are seals on the crankshaft that contain oil inside the rotary valve gear housing. Impossible to change without rebuilding crankshaft but usually dont go bad. the other is a seal on the carb side of the rotary valve shaft underneath the rotary valve. its a pain to change it but most likely your problem. easiest way to find out if thats your problem is pull the rotary valve cover(make sure rotary valve does not come off with the cover) and then just let it sit and see if there is an oil puddle in the belly pan. hope that helps. oil injection pumps do fail but 99% of the time it fails to pump oil not let oil by.
I messaged before about whether the parts would match up from a 440 to a 670. And the parts are the same so if anybody reads the comments they can see this. But I need your help with something I'm having a problem that I can't figure out. I don't know if a phone call would be easier. But I replaced all the seals and everything. And I put the water pump housing on and I get coolant dripping out of the bottom of the housing in the same spot no matter what kind of gasket sealer I use. Someone told me it's because the seals are bad and it's coming out that weeper hole. I didn't think I was putting enough coolant in it to get that to happen.do I need to use a silicone gasket maker or do I want to find the original gasket.If I put all new seals in there do I have something screwed up I followed to the t what you did. I'm frustrated and lost. Please help
awesome thanks for clarifying
Pressure test it..
Hey thanks for the video. I just bought a 1997 Formula Z 583 for my girlfriend, sled is mint other than noticed a clean oil leak under the water pump. Im sure this is the same issue. When I tried to get part 420850711 on the skidoo website they only have 420850710 which is also an oil seal, is it the same??
Justin Emery - thanks for watching - you better check with a dealer to be sure on that one - they can likely tell you over the phone if you call one. good luck and let me know if you have other questions
Mud Brats TV thanks for the quick reply!
Old school i love working on sleds to when there are somethings idk how to do i look at youtube lol
Awesome! Thanks for the comments!
I replaced Orings and top rubber head gasket and runs well but I believe still burning antifreeze?
Where else could antifreeze be getting into combustion chambers?
Top Rotary Valve Seal (Requires cases pulled apart), Base gasket, cracked or warped jug/head, not sure could be numerous things. I suggest you find a good sled mechanic and let them have a look at it
Excellent video, nice quality. Thanks for posting.
When the seal was still broken did the sled smoke very bad?
That could be the seal on the other side of the Rotary Valve. When it fails, it fills the block with oil - Not sure if it would make it smoke or not. Check dootalk forums and see what you can find. The Seal I replaced just leaks out the front when it fails so the sled ran normal, just leaked.
I bought the same sled with the same problem. Mine has electric start, does anyone know if you have to loosen up the primary clutch to get the starter out? Guy I bought it from had already started pulling things off and I noticed about an inch in slide play on the primary.
Hi, same here. did you ever get an answer or can you now answer this for yourself?
🤔
@@christophermlindsay no lol, I can't believe it's been 3 years and still haven't gotten that sled out in some snow. Still haven't got it figured out, I'm glad I noticed the comments because I forgot all about that question. Sleds been in the back of the garage under a blanket staying nice and clean at least. I will be able to answer it soon, 3 years is unacceptable....
I need these valves but the rotary valve is at the carbs, any idea for another name this would be called?
reed valves are at the carb.... rotary valve is crank
If you take off the carbs and the plate that they mount to there is a spinning disc that on eBay and everywhere online is called the rotary valve. I believe it spins on the same shaft as whatever you took apart, thank you it helped my find my oil leek lok
@@nathanielkeck4915 yes that is the rotary valve - I took apart the other side of the valve - it drives the water pump. That’s where it was leaking
Where did you get your parts from . Need help finding pls .thanks in advance.
ski-doo dealer has them all energypowersports.ca will ship to you
@@mudbrats thank you so much and thank you for the video helped out greatly
Great video. Thanks for posting. I have a 1997 Formula III 600 that is leaking like yours did. Does that weep hole vent out the front of the engine? Otherwise, how does the oil get out of the engine and not into the coolant? Thanks again. Regards, Steve
Steve O yes out the front bottom of the waterpump housing -
Great video.
I just installed a 1992 Formula Plus 521cc from a barn
It runs beautifully however I believe it's burning some antifreeze because of white smoke instead of blue?
I don't want to ruin engine.
Which seal would be causing this?
I've been told different ones.
Possibly head gasket or Orings just beneath the head gasket?
Please let me know.
Thanks
D
If its white smoke, I would think its the O-Rings on the cylinder (that is the head gasket). But hard to diagnose without looking at it.
I have the same sled and rebuilt the top end now when I went to start it it smokes really bad. Some say it sounds like its running on one cylinder but not sure
i had running one cyl problem as well. found coil arching between the wires. but my oil seal is leaking as well.when first starting it dumps oil on the ground. i figure its collecting some in the crank case because of bad seals.
Do they also git a 96 formula SLS
no idea - if its a 670 then most likely yes. But there are a lot of ski-doo parts schematics online such as Ronnies Parts that you can look it up
Thanks 👍
Welcome 👍
Hey wanted to thank you for this great video. 94 skidoo rotax 583 changed my seals step by step still have a leak mutch better but still leaking any advice
Joe Rocha youre welcome!!! i really appreciate the comment - makes my time worthwhile for this channel - is it leaking from behind the water pump still? it could be one didnt seat properly? FYI these are only half the seals on that shaft... there are more seals but I think you have to crack the bottom halves to access them. May as well do the bottom end rebuild while you are in there if its those. I would start by redoing this process, wonder if you pushed the seal to far in or not far enough on this process
@@mudbrats yes it slowed down same spot think i need to redo it should i get new seals again
Joe Rocha pull it apart and if you can get the seal out without damaging it then try and reuse them.... if not just order new seals and just watch that second one as you place it so that it ends up in the right spot
I have the same issue. When started it bellows smoke out of the exhaust though. Do you think it's this seal or would it be the other seal?
So after I did this I had antifreeze coming out the weeper hole under the housing. I put the seals in just like you did. So I'm wondering what might have happened
Must me one of the seals leaking - did you push them in too far? or not far enough? not sure sorry
@@mudbrats so here's what I found out and I just found out this morning. A guy came into my work and he had a Ski-Doo shirt on and I asked him if he works for Ski-Doo. He said he was a tech. So I presented the problem with him. He said I need to go back in there and take the impeller off. Put some washers on there to take up some of the thread on the end of the shaft. Put your boat back on there and get it tight and then put your socket with your ratchet on there you give it a quarter turn loosen it put it back on there tight give it another quarter turn and what you're doing is there's a piece way in the back that you can't see and you're seating that up against that seal
@@bradleycramer612 great tip! thanks for sharing!!!!
I have a 93 grand touring 580 that Is getting coolant in the oil tank. Is this the fix or the top end seal?
i am not sure about that one.
I have a question , i have a blizzard 1980 9500 plus , i was running it on the end of the winter and the oil was a bit low but i wasn't know it was need to be fill to the line of my oil reservoir . This summer i was working on it and saw that was no more oil in the rotary valve reservoir it was really empty . I fill it to the line like it suggest in the manual and after 2 days i came back and the oil has drop to 1/4 , but no oil anywhere in the belly no out leak at all . I want to know if its possible that the reservoir was so empty that need to be fill more to stop dropping ? Because a guy said to me its a seal in the motor and the oil goes in the motor but im pretty sure it need because if you look at the hose that's where it goes to oil the gear and those seal its only to have no oil leak outside .
Whixi Rc i cant be sure without looking at it, but if the oil is not leaking on the outside of the engine, could it be leaking through internal seals into the bottom end? then you wouldnt see anything on the outside - try filling the injector oil resorvoir again to the line and see if it goes down - if it does, then you need to look at the bottom end - sorry i cant be more help but that would be my thought
I have a 98 mxz 670 1400 miles sat a lot. Started acting up smokes really bad and dies out like fuel issue. I'm sure I'm on the right track here. Any tips or ideas otherwise. Thanks max
Hard to diagnose online... I would start by having the carbs cleaned and setup and go from there. Likely gummed up carbs from stale fuel. It doesnt take much to cause porblems like that.
i think i have the same problem, did you have oil and coolant mixed in the coolant resovoir?
No there was no oil in the coolant reservoir, my was just dripping
Great video, is it the same process for an air cooled engine?
joe mama not sure... there would not be a water pump on a fan engine so i am not sure how the Rotary Valve is positioned in the engine. Let me know if you find an answer
Would these be the same for a 670
my hunch says yes - but i woukd download the shop manual or look at a parts microfiche at Ronnies Mail Order to double check
@@mudbrats thank you so much
i got a 96 touring 583 looks like my oil and antfreeze are mixing oil looks lighter blue would this seal replacement stop this
+Jennifer Chretien I am not sure really - My first guess is that this lower seal would not cause that - I think it may be the seal on the top side of the Rotary Valve Shaft and that requires the block to be split to get at that one, or it may be a leaking head gasket.
which gasket would that be or seal
+Jennifer Chretien I am just totally guessing but there is another set f seals on the top side of the shaft - those may or may not be the culprit... Bad thing is you need to take the engine apart to access those seals - Find a schematic on line and you will see where I am thinking
Did you do this job with engine in the sled? Good vid I removed all the parts yesterday. And ordered new parts a few hours ago.. (formula z 583) smoked bad
yes - just took the hood off - glad it helped
if its smoking its likely the seals on the top side --- not this side - let me know though. mine didnt smoke, just leaked bad... if its the other seals i suspect, your going to have to split the cases = rebuild
+Mud Brats TV The last seal before I removed it had a slow drip so I think oil was getting past it and filling up the crank case. there is oil in the exhaust pipe too. Nasty.
+Mud Brats TV did you bleed the injector pump or anything like that after?
+slipnslide83 No the injector pump is before this seal so its pumping clean. Follow the video and you are good to go.
Skidoo stealer lol good one!
Derredmax thanks for that!!
Would this cause the oil to come out of the exhaust manifold? And leak into the exhaust n pan?
I don't think this would cause that. How much oil is leaking out?
Mud Brats ADV a lot lol
As soon as I start it the oil is flowing right out of the cylinders it appears?
Could it be bad seals on the pump like a o ring or something, causing it to just let the oil flow when the sled is running? I ran it for a couple mins and prob lost like a 1/4 quart oil injection oil
I jus looked again and it is all dry where the water pump is but it is def pouring out of the header ? I’ve adjusted the oil injection way down last year and it’s still pumping it out , mind you the sled will run
Sorry to say this but I watched the video twice. And saw that you put the seal that's closest to the front of the sled in the wrong way. The side with the circular spring that's on the seal is supposed to face out not in. The inner seal is correct. And I've looked on the parts diagram and the video when you took them out, you'll see the way that the outer seal is from factory. Hope someone will understand what I'm saying. Other than that very great video! It definitely helps taking the engine out on a mxz 670.
nope i watched it again A the seals were both put in correctly - they go like this ] [ both cups to outside - hard to see in the vid but thats the shape of the new ones - you can see me picking the spring off the outer seal when removing it - the springs are out on the outer seal
Not the case Kody! Go back and watch carefully at the removal of the outer seal (8:25) and you’ll see him removing the circular spring designed to maintain pressure on the seal’s lip around the rotary shaft. Then during reinstallation at (13:15) you can clearly see the outer seal being installed in the same orientation as the one he removed. 👍