Crankshaft Rebuild Tools -
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- čas přidán 22. 11. 2022
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Actual description: I don't talk about the processes of rebuilding, checking or truing the crank in this video. I may make another video going into some detail about checking and truing. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Awesome video. I love that you built this. I hate the repetitive background music (but that is just an issue I have with many videos).
Thanks for the comment. ... I definitely overdid it with the music on this one... not sure what I was thinking. Most of the time, I try to only use music to mask background noises or at a few key places in the video.
This is a good video to watch for anyone who is about to rebuild a personal watercraft crankshaft 👍
Thanks ... It seemed like a really big deal before I built one. It's time consuming, for a beginner, but not that hard.
I just pulled my 440 apart and found a few bearing going out. I can’t seem to find anyone that does this crank work. Time to invest in a press.
@@bradwilsey9426There are several companies who can rebuild your crank if you prefer not to try it yourself. Competitive Crankshaft, Crankworks, C57 Racing to name a few.
Like to add having the press pin fastened to the Press Ram may save you're health and well being. Was pressing apart a 4 cylinder Suzuki crank and the pin shot out just passed my head and went clean through buddies dad's Shop Wall. Impressive amount of energy. THAT was a 30 Ton now I have a 50. Be safe maybe use a safety shield .
Yes.... there is an insane amount of energy stored up when a press flexes ... I think I talked about that a little in this video. One of the reasons I bought a 50 ton unit is that a 50 ton press at 20 tons is much safer than a 20 ton press at 20 tons as the 20 ton press will be stretching / flexing a lot more. Similar to why high pressure air is much more dangerous than high pressure oil.
It is really important to have all of your pressing surfaces parallel / square with each other. This is almost always what causes a part or tool to shoot off in one direction. Having a tool fixed in place can be handy, but it can also be a false sense of security if you are working at high pressures. If you tool or part is off by a few degrees, and you start pushing with tons of force, bad things are almost certainly going to happen.
Id like know how it went and the reason of splitting
got a 79 GS750
I’m pretty sure the crank
Is twisted slightly
And was thinking of
This
Thank you for the video! As a broke college student who can't find a proper crank rebuilder for my Ski-Doo Formula III, and who understands the risks of doing this, I am still wanting to try it with my tight budget. I have one crank with bad mag side mains, and another crank with a bad rod bearing on the PTO side. In other words, I have 2 cranks broken in different locations and am trying to make one good one. I have access to presses and pullers at mechanic school. Lets see what happens.
I know what it's like being broke... believe me, haha. That's great.... if you can make one good crank out of two bad ones, you're golden !
VERY WELL EXPLAINED. quite entertaining, now l have a question, i have seen videos of the zrt 600 and noticed that the throws are not 120 degrees apart or am l dreaming??? would like an answer thank you
Thanks for the comment.
The ZRT 600 is a triple. That means that the 360º of rotation is broken up into 3 instead of 2 like on a twin. So yes, 120 x 3 is 360 🤟 I plan on doing a crank rebuild on a few 3 cylinder cranks ... I have a few 900 and 1100 triple cranks that need to be rebuilt.
This isn't necessarily a hard fast rule ... there are engines that have all sorts of odd firing orders. You can totally have an engine that has 3 cylinders with two pistons that get to the top at the same time, and one that is offset 90º at the bottom. This sort of thing is much more common in 4 cycle engines.
Good stuff joel !! I'm also about to tackle a similar job on a 750 kawi crank
Right on. I think I will make another video on crank truing ... it's not really that complicated, but lots of people who explain it make it seem very confusing.
Kent Moore made a crankshaft rebuild tool kit for Kawasaki and I have yet to find one. Pretty similar to what you made Joel except for the tools for setting web distance and stopping pinch.
Right on. I was considering making something to set the basic clearance and then doing the final bit by checking the rod clearance. Probably worth it of you are rebuilding several cranks that are the same.
Have you pressed a polaris rzr, ranger, 700/800 crankshaft? Thanks
I have not... that's a strange crank. Looks like the outer webs contain pins that push into the center web or something.
You make it look easy! Although what I'm trying to do is certainly a little more interesting for a first rodeo. The whole ruin the bearing to remove it is making me think if there is any reason to remove a new bearing after you just put it on and decide you did it wrong. This seems like the type of thing you really do just have to go for it.
Yeah, it wasn't too bad once I got stated. Worrying about it and researching was much harder, haha.
Having to remove a new bearing is a very real, possible scenario. If that happend I would have to deal with it. On some cranks, you can use a bearing separator tool, but only if you can kinda get behind the bearing, and only if you have a big enough separator. It's probably also possible to make a tool similar to mine that is lower profile that could be used without removing the cage.
What you are doing is more interesting and challenging for sure, but it's basically the same process... altho you probably have to figure out a few more measurements and different bits.
For phasing, you have some choices to make. The smoothest operation will be with the two outer pistons reaching TDC at the same time and the two center 180 off... This is the best overall balance. However, this will not sound as cool as timing it at 90º and it will also make life hard for your starter ... If you run a 180 crank it is basically two twins and you are firing two pistons at the same time. I believe the Yamaha V-max 4 ran with a firing order of 1,4,3,2. (Mag #1 at TDC, #2 180 off at BDC, #3 off 90 and 4 off by 270) They had a pull start only, so this is likely why they did it this way. Confused yet ?
The ones we raced, we ran the cranks at 180 as it offers more traction and a more durable crank at high rpm.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams I never thought about any phasing other than 180 just because like you said it's just two twins. I'm also not really an engine guy like you so I just don't know about some stuff. What would you do? I'm hearing sounds cooler and better at high revs so do 180. I'm not worried about vibration. On stock superjets there is a rubber piece bolted to the bottom of the engine that sits on the bottom of the hull and basically eliminates the vibration. I plan on doing some of that.
@@Jacobskibros You misunderstood, or I misspoke. The 180 crank will sound basically like a twin as you will have two pistons firing at the same time. The 90 crank will fire every 90 and sound much smoother and much different.
Vibrations aren't so much a concern for you or the engine moving, but for damage to the crank at prolonged high rpm or long term durability.
The benefit to 90 is easier to start and different sound. You're going to have to do something custom to get it to fire every 90, so that's a down side ...for ease of just about everything, I think 180 is probably the best idea.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams OK I see. How much of a difference would there be clocking the front and back together and middle opposite vs up down up down? It would basically run the same right? Only difference is first one balances nicer?
@@Jacobskibros Haha... I think you misunderstood that as well. What you want is up, down, down, up.
Up, down, up, down would run rough and not sound any different and could actually cause damage to the crank.
Теперь будем знать
HI, im trying to find anyone who could replace middle seal and bearing in my suzuki s 32 crankshaft (conrods are fine) do you offer this service?
Hello Mike. I could do this for you, but I suspect shipping would be quite costly. WIth a bit of searching, you should be able to find someone in your area that offers this service.
Great video I am trying to rebuild a few old seadoos 587 what would be the best way to faze the crank 180 degrees ?
A few videos before this one, I made a video about rebuilding a crank and talk about phasing. I use a lathe in the video. If you don't have access to a lathe, you can make a jig, or use v - blocks. Basically, mount a degree wheel on one end of your crank, use a pin and bearing to lock in a reference point and then rotate to your desired degree and line up your next web... If you watch the other video, this might make sense. Linked below if youtube lets me link it.
It's a long video, the part about phasing is about 25 mins in, but I suggest watching the whole thing. It will give you some pointers on what not to do.
czcams.com/video/RrPnn88WC_o/video.html&ab_channel=JoelArseneault
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams wicked thanks from a fellow Canadian ;)
@@Jon440x No problem.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams your in Newfoundland? I see you have a video of Labrador.
I am in St. John’s
@@Jon440x No... I was there working last winter and the Bombardier dealership (PWR Sports) but I am back in Calgary Alberta now.
Hi Joel. Watching your video on crank repair. I'm in the process of deciding whether I want to fix mine or just buy another one off of ebay. The crank is off a 1981 Suzuki GS550T with less than 11,000km that had the #2 piston cooked due to a high rev situation with the previous owner. Looks like the exhaust valve dropped and punched a hole in the piston which in turn melted along with the top of the connecting rod. The engine is all apart and I have sourced a new piston and connecting rod. I have access to a shop press. But I don't have all the special plates for separating the crank. Was going to purchase a bearing puller and a run out gauge. Should I try this myself? I'm thinking worst case scenario, I could kill myself (not very likely) or I could damage the crank, in which case I'd just have to buy another one. What are your thoughts?
Hey. Cool.
I say take your time and give it a go. If nothing else you will learn something along the way. Use the same press rules as usual. Make sure you are pressing strait and that your tools are flat and true on each end. If you get 5 tons on it and it's not moving, take a second look to see if you're missing something.
The trickiest part will likely be getting the old bearings off without destroying them, and truing the crank afterwards.
Remember to take lots of measurements of the crank before you pull it apart, unless you have a detailed manual that shows all critical measurements.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams Thanks Joel. I will keep you posted on my progress.
What is the inner and outer diameter of the pipe?
The pipe I used is called 6 inch Schedule 80. The dimensions are 6.625 OD and 5.761 ID. The wall thickness is .432 inches.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams okey, thanks..🙏😇
@@MuhammadRasyid91DMI You are welcome !
Kent Moore part#99990-300
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