Kawasaki KLX 300 fork mounted handguard installation
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Installation of Cycra Ops Pro Bend Handguard using G2 Ergonomics Fork Mounted Mongo Mount. Disclaimer ( I have 30mm bar risers installed, will need to install bar risers to get the same fit as me, tilting of levers and adjustment of banjo bolt on brake lines my also be needed). thanks for watching!
Greatly appreciate that you filmed & posted this!! You saved me a lot of time & trial/error by simply getting the same G2 Mongo brackets & Cycra handguards you used. Fit my '24 KLX300 just fine.
Also the tips on using a spacer on the throttle tube side, melting a hole in the grips & tapping the pre-drilled holes for the plastic guards are great (10-24 tap is what did it for my screws). My handlebars are not OEM (Pro Taper SE) so I didn't have to tap the ends like you did on OEM bars, but it is close to the same geometry of OEM, plus I have 7/8" risers on mine too.
I have some Tusk D-Sport guards on my KLR and for kicks tried to mount them on the KLX with the G2 Mongo brackets... No Go! That extra bend downward bend in the Cycra just coming off the handlebars is what makes this work to clear the lines & attach to the G2 fork brackets.
Thanks Again!! Safe Riding To You!!!
👍
Yeah it was a pain to find something to work on this bike! Glad I could help!
Nice job. I like the fork mounts much better than the clamps on bars. Looks great.
Yeah Im very happy with how it turned out. Its nice not interfering with the cables and wires
Thanks for this, I didnt use your style mounts but your method was very helpful. I got to the same point you did regarding tapping the stock bar weights but your idea to use the 5/8" socket was brilliant! That one part solved my issue on the throttle grip. Thanks
Thanks glad I could help! Heating up the socket actually works very well for grips already on the bike. If I was to put new grips on I would most likely use a punch to cut out the grips.
I went with the T-rex racing custom designed handguards for my KLX300SM. Universal fit just weren't cutting it like mentioned in the video.
Awesome choice! Those look like a nice fit for sure! Seems like theres no issues with cables or other interference with those?
@@billingsfmx no issues because they are designed for each side. The throttle side goes over the brake fluid reservoir. The bar ends are bolted in and they provide the drill bit and tap to thread the inside of the OEM bar. I posted a photo on the KLX300SM thread on ADVrider forum.
Awesome thats good to hear! Those are definitely the ones to go with now in my opinion.
Good information. This is the way I will most likely go.
Glad I could help, hopefully it will work out for you! I was looking around for a while, till I decieded to try this set up and it worked great!
I've tried to mount the Tusk D-sport handguards on my stock handlebar and they don't clear the brake line on the right and don't fit the left side either. Just a heads up for other KLX 300 owners.
Yes its very tricky to find a set up that works good for these bikes. You can move cables around or get shorter levers but some times certain fitments just aint gona work unless you do some custom fabricating. Im still really happy with my handguard set up. Brake line was getting some wear so I removed the top guide and its good now. I also went with some shorter throw levers. I looked at those tusk handguards, they looked pretty good from the pics. Good to know they dont work.
Nice work
Thank you! Theyve been working out pretty good for me
Do you have the website for all of the parts that you need and purchased them from including the spacers for the handlebars and the 30 mm bar riser I like your installation ideas and how much basically did this modification cost?
I think there may some info in the comments section below. If not let me know what parts specifically you are wondering about and I can look it up. Im sure prices have gone up since I put the hand guards on. Thanks.
www.t-rex-racing.com/Kawasaki-KLX250-KLX300-Handguards-with-Barkbusters-p/n251-18handguards.htm
Check out these Trex bark busters they look like a great fit!
www.motosport.com/product/?cc=us&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoeemBhCfARIsADR2QCsu--lQvkyTdBAZHaPUWLwEvmeiCHYDC5utOntFhgh3nKIQ_hdiPMkaApTCEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&key=Cycra-Ops-Pro-Bend-Handguard-Kit&psreferrer=www.google.com/&pssource=true&segment=badger&variant[CYC0037]=CYC0037-X007-Y001
www.g2ergo.com/shop/the-mongo-handguard-mount/
Your probend ops handguards have a crs number 2736 (or 8?) 0. But the handguards in the link are 43055. I'm worried that they will not have that bend in the aluminum to allow it to go to the forks. Can you clarify?
Theres a link to the model I got in one of the comments below. Correct fitment depends on several factors. The bike you ride, bars, bar risers, fork mounts, handlebar mounts. I can only confirm fit in the exact same set up im using.
Great tutorial. Can you please tell me where to get the spacers? Thanks -
Yeah sure I just went to my local hardware store which was a true value store and got spacers that fit depending on your bar and handguard combo. I think my spacers were about 1/2 inch long to properly space out my handguards how I wanted.
Have you had any issues with that hose guide being in between the pinch bolt yet
The only issue I had was the outside rubber housing started rubbing off. I ended up removing that guide all together, and it has been working fine for me. I dont like how kawasaki routed the brake lines. Looks like they actually changed the routing completely on the new 2024 klx. You can see in the pictures it takes a higher route. Might work better with higher bars and handguards.
@@billingsfmx thanks for the info, I’ve been trying to find the best possible handguard setup that doesn’t interfere with the brake line’s articulation. I see so many people install these handguards on these bikes in a way totally constricts the lines travel with the wheel and then you never get to see the results of their handiwork. I appreciate your input. Have you thought about do an “after video” sort of a follow up to this video. I’m considering using the mounts you used. I was mainly concerned with the hose guide being installed in between the pinch portion of the clamp. I work in aerospace and I have seen that particular situation result in decreased clamping force and result in failure. Anyways I have thought about Cycra top reach mount system which should maintain the triple clamps clamping force, I can keep the hose guid where it’s at and it would allow the hose to move up and down with the suspension. But I won’t know till I try. I’ve already return their center reach clamp setup because it was literally right in the same path as the hose. Sorry for the novel my brain can be a little to detail oriented sometimes. I’ve just seen a lot of failures and costly rework/repairs on cars and aircraft over some of the most innocuous things
@@durl1963 no Im definitely the same way when it comes to my stuff. Ive been riding my bike without the upper brake hose guide for over a year with no issues. There was another handguard set by t-rex I liked that I saw after I installed these . They seem to wrap around the issues normal universal handguards have. www.t-rex-racing.com/Kawasaki-KLX250-KLX300-Handguards-with-Barkbusters-p/n251-18handguards.htm
@@billingsfmx I’ve seen and thought about those too. I’ve looked at the way they’re designed I’m a little curious how well they take hard hits/falls, if they stay in place or if the come loose. There’s a lot of points of movement on that set up. I think your fork mounts are a much better idea especially if you took of the guide with no issues, I’m really learning towards that direction now
So you had to also tap the side guard holes too? Why didn't cycra do that? What side tap/drill bit were those small bolts?
Im sure they did it to save money and labor cost. If I remember right they were self tapping screws with a slight taper on the end, plus its aluminum so you could get away without tapping those holes, but it wont go easy. I have a tap and dye set so Im always looking for an excuse to use it. I would recommend using a tap otherwise philip head screws are pretty easy to strip out. I can not remember what size tap it was. I picked up a whole tap and dye set from harbor frieght and its been working great.
@@billingsfmx I have been meeting to pick up a set of them as well.. I need them to thread the plugs inside the handlebars for bar and sliders too. They are good looking handguardd!
@@SPROCK3TMONST3R yeah they are my favorite hand guard out there for sure! Yeah that tap n die set comes in handy all the time!
Can't clear the "banjo" bolt on the brake side. I believe you have installed handlebar risers? Can you tell me which ones?
Ohh dang I didnt think of that, I should add a disclaimer to the video. I bought some generic 30mm bar risers.
@@billingsfmx The bars are 7/8 inch correct? Trying to find some now.
@@damonstevenson3279 yes correct, 30mm rise, 7/8 bar.
@@billingsfmx okay, just ordered some Kemimoto ones off Amazon. I am basically copying everything you did. I bought the same mounts and handguards. Even called Cycra to verify the thread of bolts that came with handguards was M8x1.25 mm, etc.
Awesome glad I could help! I'm still very happy with it all. I like it a lot better than some of the other set ups ive seen out there. The cables do get a little tight after the riser but it all works fine on my bike. I can turn lock to lock without any clutch or throttle issues. Regearing and new tires made a huge difference offroad as well. I wanted better performance in the dirt.
What size to you have to tap the bar weights? And where did you buy the tapper? Also is the throttle side clutch side the same?
The tap size depends on the bolt size and thread pitch of the bolts for the handguards you purchase. I got my tap and die kit from harbor freight. Yes the metal inserts in the bars are the same on both sides of the bars.
@@billingsfmx I have ordered the same handguards that you installed. I went to Lowes and purchased a tap and die set that included a 8x 1.25 metric because I think that's what you said you needed. However since the thread needed is the 8X1.25 mm, I was confused when you said you drilled the hole with a 17/64 bit. At Lowes they had a separate tap and drill bit packaged together for $8 so I bought it as well. I looked through what Lowes had and couldn't find a 17/64 bit by itself and didn't remember what a couple of drill bit sets I had included, so to save a trip I bought both. The handguards should be here within a week.
When you drill the hole for the new bolt you want the hole to be about the size of the bolt minus the threads. So the hole should be smaller than the bolt. You should be able to find a tapping chart online that lists the correct drill bit for corresponding tap. You will love the hand guards! They are super solid and nice!
There should be some instruction videos on youtube to show better the techniques of tapping a hole if you've never done it before. Just take your time and clean out the shavings often.
should put links to the items
www.motosport.com/product/?cc=us&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjIKYBhC6ARIsAGEds-KvJSkMEgAou2--DEzTWGGhBiK4vv46O5NP2Ha8NYc-6LSioiYntDUaAj1bEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&key=Cycra-Ops-Pro-Bend-Handguard-Kit&psreferrer=www.google.com/&pssource=true&segment=badger&variant[CYC0037]=CYC0037-X007-Y001
www.g2ergo.com/shop/the-mongo-handguard-mount/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjIKYBhC6ARIsAGEds-LpSNfKUqSfaTac0egYpHpmeZ7d4Fn11aPb8dFqPFCK6SgyGQc_KGwaAhm5EALw_wcB
If you do a internet search sometimes you may find these parts for cheaper. Also if you are using the stock bars you will need a tap and die set. I also have 30mm 7/8 bar risers installed so you would need those or a higher rise bar. Let me know if you have any other questions!
@@billingsfmx Thanks bro I do already have 30mm risers
Did you have to tune for your exhaust
No I didnt get a tuner. Spark plug looks the same before and after. I also added a kdx snorkle. Seemed to improve throttle response slightly. This bike is such a slow hawg, i mainly did it to make the bike sound better. I run it with the spark arrestor in. I took out the secondary throttle plate but didnt really like how the bike ran in the lower rpm range. I plan on getting a 450 in the near future. I really like the honda 450x.
@@billingsfmx I did the KDX snorkel to with no tune. I have also thought about removing the secondary throttle plate and I figured since Kawasaki marketed this bike to be beginner rider friendly that they put that in there to tame down the throttle response curve because it’s basically a 300 R engine but I was concerned with low to mid range power and removing that throttle plate and how it would affect that performance in that range and so I decided to research mostly all they came up with was people removing the plate and talking about how great it was at wide open throttle‘s but nobody talked about the actual low to mid range which is the result of port velocity. I came across this video during my searing
czcams.com/video/Bd4AKg31CyY/video.html
Watch it when you get the chance you’re the first person that I’ve actually heard talk about the lack of low end power that resulted after removing the plate, and that has been the biggest thing keeping me from doing it and it was some thing that I thought about, also I commute 20 miles one way to work on 35-50 mph roads and I considered the possibility that I might lose some ride ability in traffic and accelerating from lights intersections getting up to speed etc. Because at low engine speeds you need to have as much velocity in the intake track at low engine speeds to fill the cylinder as quickly as possible Where as typically bikes like the KLX300R and motocross bikes are either full throttle or no throttle they aren’t typically riding in that mid range to low speed stuff which is, that is one of the reasons why in my opinion, this bike is a goat when it comes to being able to climb at low speeds so well without bogging out but enough to keep control and momentum with out trying to flip you off the back of the back of the bike which obviously doesn’t give you much control when you’re trying to climb, technical terrain and you need to be able to point the bike in the direction you wanted to go
@@durl1963 yes that video describes it well! I just wanted to see for myself after seeing a before and after dyno that showed it taking out the power slump around 7k rpm. I hate how the powerdrops in that area then ramps back up. Removing the plate did smooth out that power slump in the mid to upper range and make it feel more linear. Down low it was very jerky and not smooth at all. Over all I like the bike with the plate installed how the engineers intended. Its not a track bike its a put around trail/adventure bike and its very good at that job.
@@billingsfmx I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your feedback! I have been kicking it around in my head for a while and you confirmed my suspicions. I think I know of the video you speak of. I wanted to ask you what you thought of the Tusk Dsport tires? I saw on one of your previous videos that you had them sitting on a rack and you were going to install them at a later time. Did you like them how much riding on the road did you do with them? I am contemplating getting those tires, but I’m not totally sure as I do some light commuting about 20 miles one way on 35 to 50 mile an hour roads no highways but I still want to be able to have adequate traction half Road on the weekends mainly forestry roads, and any trails I find along the way
@durl1963 Ive had the Dsport front and rear on for about a year now. They do way better offroad than the stockers. I definitely log more miles on road than offroad. Mainly just my get around town bike and about 5 miles to work. They do very well onroad, ive had no issues. They are a hard rubber and seem to be wearing slow, but the mileage you ride is quite a bit more than what I do. I did buy a balancer along with spoke weights. Ive heard of people getting vibrations when these tires arnt balanced. Id buy the dsports again when these wear out.