Hi Mark, I can not say how happy i am that you are back posting videos. Your videos are just so relaxed and interesting to watch even though the subjects might be a tad nerdy some times. Keep up the good work.
Very interesting. I have the exact same mouse and it's getting to be about the same age. So far nothing unusual about the switches, but good to know that it's repairable.
Awesome vids! Do the same with my logitech mx, but the microswitches in mine can be popped open, then i just bend the copper springs to increase the tension 🙈 Enjoy your channel, keep them coming!
A trick you could try when removing the scates is to heat it with a hairdryer. Granted in this case that was not needed, this is at leat something I have done multiple times with great success. Once the glue softens it's much easier. to remove it all in one piece without damaging the mouse scates. A standard hairdryer should not be hot enough to melt the plastic. I personally used my cheap hot air staiton last time because the beam is a bit easier to focus, but a hairdryer works well enough.
Thanks for the video. Have replaced many switches in the logitech M570 the omrons that they use are just bad. This guide helped me fix these mice Logitech M570 Teardown and Repair. The switch he used and why is in the post just google it. Digikey sells the switch part number 401-1742-ND, these switches are the same height as the omrons in the M570. Now I have three of these mice with new switched, was tired of buying new mice with junk switched. I do not use drag mice, because of bad wrist, to much damage to them from work.
Yeah you got the right switches. Alex kenis has a very long vid if anyone else wants to go down the rabbit hole. Good idea for the UHMW. Some new mice are using optical switches (razer viper), will see how long they last... should be much longer. But its not possible to retrofit in an old mouse.
When my mouse last failed like that i pulled the switch apart and fixed it.. it's just the spring getting a little worn in.. though replacing the switch probably does give more life.
Yep I changed the switches in my Logitech Trackman T-RB22 trackballs. I have 3 of them and I have replaced the same switches in 2 of them. I paid $68.00 each for them some 15 years ago and I thought I would see if I could find a new one on eBay and I did last year and there were 3 Brand New In the Sealed Box now worth $600.00 US they say! Wow I have gold on my desk... LOL I just looked a bit ago and I found all used ones at $130.00 US... Some were in better shape that mine the little feet are all gone, (Your New stuff in vid will fix that.) and the arrows are wore off of the buttons... They still work great and use them all day long... Lol I hate a mouse, corded or wireless it is still a mouse... Lol (Sorry) I have some Logitech wireless keyboards that have a wireless mouse but I have them in a box on the shelf as I don't use them. I have also reverted back to my old IBM heavy tank clicky keyboards because it got to the point where I don't like the keys on the Logitecks, old and mushy... Anyway Thanks for the video and keep clicking! Lol LLAP
Can't you drill through the skates to remove screws instead of removing them? Holes in skates shouldn't affect sliding as long as you chamfer the edges. Thanks for new video.
Those new made in China Omrons are crappy. I've switched tens of these switches spanning my own and friends mice. I always hoard whatever switches from the older basic mouses. They just last forever.
once replaced the leftclick button on a razer deathadder cause it started doubleclicking. shortly after the usb cable failed and it wasnt recognized anymore. cheap crap no matter what you pay
when the cable on my filco majestouch 2 keyboard (far from cheap carp) failed, i replaced the internal connector with one of those cheap micro usb breakout boards and now i can replace the cable any time i want, but tbh i don't need to because it's a nice thick cable and it's unlikely to fail any time soon.
rather than use skates, you could use some 1/16" UHMW PE plate, and glue it to the underside of the mouse using double sided sticky - probably a better experience altogether, as it'll /all/ glide i've found that the kind of glue that is under mouse skates and the likes is usually two sided tape, and i've found that it's available as tape you can buy in interior design stores and furniture stores. i think it's used for gluing down whatever you put on the floor (carpet, linoleum, ...) if your switches aren't tall enough, the best way to raise them is to probably add some filler between the switch and the pcb, like a piece of phenolic or something like that. then you don't have to modify the mouse in any way.
Could've taken the chance to join the nerds on r/mousereview, especially their discord. Also you unfortunately overpaid for mediocre micro switches and kinda got the Omron product series part all wrong
The thing with referring to the D2FC series switches as counterfeit and questionable because they presumably aren't produced anymore confuses me. All the relatively new mice in the past few years use shitty (prone to double-clicking) Omron D2FC-F-K(50M), Razer (-RZ) and Roccat (-RT) even have their own version of it specifically made for their products. Now the manufacturers (at least Logitech) are moving on to the Omron D2FC-F-7N(G1) which is yet another new iteration and very similar to the Omron D2FC-F-7N(10M) in the shown mouse. Before that they tried to fix the clicking issues and staying on switches rated for a durability/lifetime of 50 million actuations by using the Omron D2FC-F-K(C). All these switches are produced by Omron in mainland China, hence letter C in the 'D2FC' product series. The Omron D2FS series is presumably produced in a newer manufacturing plant in Shanghai and the Omron D2F series is exclusively produced in Japan. The latter 'only' has a better quality control and tighter tolerances, but that doesn't make the D2F series overall any better.
@@VornameNachname86 so which switches do you recommend as replacements for the switches found in eg the logitech g903 and g600? it sounds like you're saying all omrons are bad to some extent.
@@cheater00 Kailh GM series, most Huano switches, TTC Gold dustproof variants, Zippy DF3-P1 or DF3-P1L1, C&K ZMA030, most Himake switches, all of the Cherry and ZF switches. Basically anything that has a proper brand and/or model number which is not Omron. Also kinda depends on what you want and expect. More or less tactility, higher or lower actuation force and quieter or louder actuations when compared to the generic Omron D2FC-F-7N
TTC is not "no name" just because you don't recognize the brand. They manufacture microswitches from HuiZhou China since 1998 and have been one of the major OEMs for keyboard and mouse makers since way back. They were established even before Steelseries themselves in 2001. You Americans and your brand-obsession.
Nice upgrade and great tip on the UHWP tape. Definitely lots of uses and worth keeping in the DIY junk drawer.
Hi Mark, I can not say how happy i am that you are back posting videos. Your videos are just so relaxed and interesting to watch even though the subjects might be a tad nerdy some times. Keep up the good work.
Like your vids man. Wish there was more stuff like this.
Nice video, interesting to learn about UHMW PE tape. Interested to hear how it holds up to wear compared to teflon skates.
Very interesting. I have the exact same mouse and it's getting to be about the same age. So far nothing unusual about the switches, but good to know that it's repairable.
Awesome vids!
Do the same with my logitech mx, but the microswitches in mine can be popped open, then i just bend the copper springs to increase the tension 🙈
Enjoy your channel, keep them coming!
A trick you could try when removing the scates is to heat it with a hairdryer. Granted in this case that was not needed, this is at leat something I have done multiple times with great success. Once the glue softens it's much easier. to remove it all in one piece without damaging the mouse scates. A standard hairdryer should not be hot enough to melt the plastic.
I personally used my cheap hot air staiton last time because the beam is a bit easier to focus, but a hairdryer works well enough.
Thanks for the video.
Have replaced many switches in the logitech M570 the omrons that they use are just bad.
This guide helped me fix these mice Logitech M570 Teardown and Repair.
The switch he used and why is in the post just google it.
Digikey sells the switch part number 401-1742-ND, these switches are the same height as the omrons in the M570.
Now I have three of these mice with new switched, was tired of buying new mice with junk switched.
I do not use drag mice, because of bad wrist, to much damage to them from work.
Yeah you got the right switches. Alex kenis has a very long vid if anyone else wants to go down the rabbit hole. Good idea for the UHMW.
Some new mice are using optical switches (razer viper), will see how long they last... should be much longer. But its not possible to retrofit in an old mouse.
thanks for the tip, nice, i'll make sure to watch that!
hello there mate, i was wondering if i buy Omron D2FC-F-7N switches would they be compatible with old steelseries sensei?
When my mouse last failed like that i pulled the switch apart and fixed it.. it's just the spring getting a little worn in.. though replacing the switch probably does give more life.
Hi, Can I bridge the channels in the volvo pa200 / pa300 amplifier? for subwoofer
Of course you had to make this video a month after I had already repaired my own mouse! However, still a great video that I watched through anyway!
hi can you give the link for the switches
Yep I changed the switches in my Logitech Trackman T-RB22 trackballs. I have 3 of them and I have replaced the same switches in 2 of them. I paid $68.00 each for them some 15 years ago and I thought I would see if I could find a new one on eBay and I did last year and there were 3 Brand New In the Sealed Box now worth $600.00 US they say! Wow I have gold on my desk... LOL
I just looked a bit ago and I found all used ones at $130.00 US... Some were in better shape that mine the little feet are all gone, (Your New stuff in vid will fix that.) and the arrows are wore off of the buttons... They still work great and use them all day long... Lol
I hate a mouse, corded or wireless it is still a mouse... Lol (Sorry)
I have some Logitech wireless keyboards that have a wireless mouse but I have them in a box on the shelf as I don't use them. I have also reverted back to my old IBM heavy tank clicky keyboards because it got to the point where I don't like the keys on the Logitecks, old and mushy...
Anyway Thanks for the video and keep clicking! Lol
LLAP
“The S stands for shit” lol
Where did you source new switches? There are more counterfeit Omron parts than real on the market.
Digikey. They are a reputable distributor of electronic components.
No there aren't lol
@@punktkomma9489 hmm.. i mean i did hear of digikey carrying counterfeits.
Can't you drill through the skates to remove screws instead of removing them? Holes in skates shouldn't affect sliding as long as you chamfer the edges.
Thanks for new video.
You could, but how would you know where to drill?
@@TheUbuntuGuyUsing still frame from your video or one of the others on CZcams detailing repair of this specific mouse.
@@TheUbuntuGuy I'm sure there is a gazillion ways to workaround this. Make a paper template or even use transparent film.
@@TheUbuntuGuy i think you couldn't - you'd drill out the head of the screw and then it would be stuck for good! bad idea here imo
Those new made in China Omrons are crappy. I've switched tens of these switches spanning my own and friends mice. I always hoard whatever switches from the older basic mouses. They just last forever.
sadly when I open my mouse to fix the switch the side buttons stoped working for ever hahahah :(
once replaced the leftclick button on a razer deathadder cause it started doubleclicking. shortly after the usb cable failed and it wasnt recognized anymore. cheap crap no matter what you pay
when the cable on my filco majestouch 2 keyboard (far from cheap carp) failed, i replaced the internal connector with one of those cheap micro usb breakout boards and now i can replace the cable any time i want, but tbh i don't need to because it's a nice thick cable and it's unlikely to fail any time soon.
For configuring mice in Linux have a look at Piper. It can configure some mice (mostly logitech though)
github.com/libratbag/piper/
rather than use skates, you could use some 1/16" UHMW PE plate, and glue it to the underside of the mouse using double sided sticky - probably a better experience altogether, as it'll /all/ glide
i've found that the kind of glue that is under mouse skates and the likes is usually two sided tape, and i've found that it's available as tape you can buy in interior design stores and furniture stores. i think it's used for gluing down whatever you put on the floor (carpet, linoleum, ...)
if your switches aren't tall enough, the best way to raise them is to probably add some filler between the switch and the pcb, like a piece of phenolic or something like that. then you don't have to modify the mouse in any way.
"Fixing the Switches " but actual fixing never shown. great..
Could've taken the chance to join the nerds on r/mousereview, especially their discord. Also you unfortunately overpaid for mediocre micro switches and kinda got the Omron product series part all wrong
The thing with referring to the D2FC series switches as counterfeit and questionable because they presumably aren't produced anymore confuses me. All the relatively new mice in the past few years use shitty (prone to double-clicking) Omron D2FC-F-K(50M), Razer (-RZ) and Roccat (-RT) even have their own version of it specifically made for their products. Now the manufacturers (at least Logitech) are moving on to the Omron D2FC-F-7N(G1) which is yet another new iteration and very similar to the Omron D2FC-F-7N(10M) in the shown mouse. Before that they tried to fix the clicking issues and staying on switches rated for a durability/lifetime of 50 million actuations by using the Omron D2FC-F-K(C). All these switches are produced by Omron in mainland China, hence letter C in the 'D2FC' product series. The Omron D2FS series is presumably produced in a newer manufacturing plant in Shanghai and the Omron D2F series is exclusively produced in Japan. The latter 'only' has a better quality control and tighter tolerances, but that doesn't make the D2F series overall any better.
@@VornameNachname86 so which switches do you recommend as replacements for the switches found in eg the logitech g903 and g600? it sounds like you're saying all omrons are bad to some extent.
@@cheater00 Kailh GM series, most Huano switches, TTC Gold dustproof variants, Zippy DF3-P1 or DF3-P1L1, C&K ZMA030, most Himake switches, all of the Cherry and ZF switches. Basically anything that has a proper brand and/or model number which is not Omron. Also kinda depends on what you want and expect. More or less tactility, higher or lower actuation force and quieter or louder actuations when compared to the generic Omron D2FC-F-7N
@@VornameNachname86 ok thanks I'll try em out
why the hell does a mouse need a screen?
So you don't need drivers installed to configure it, as he explained right at the beginning.
TTC is not "no name" just because you don't recognize the brand. They manufacture microswitches from HuiZhou China since 1998 and have been one of the major OEMs for keyboard and mouse makers since way back. They were established even before Steelseries themselves in 2001.
You Americans and your brand-obsession.