Great job Susan. I find that I learn so much by building my own jigs, that when I do go to buy a commercial jig, I know exactly what I need it to do. I’ve bought commercial jigs that were not any more accurate than my garage version. Your work on this jig & the fret slotting template was very inspirational & informative. Thanks for sharing!!!!!
I agree, I find when i've made my own templates and jigs for a project, the results are usually better since I've thought through all the required measurements and processes a lot more thoroughly
Getting accurate fret slots is a real challenge. I'm impressed with your solution, by doing it this way your intonation will be right on the money. Thanks for the tutorial,
I've spent a long time working on a dulcimer body and neck and I'm ready to cut the slots in my fret board. I almost pulled the trigger on a professional miter box for like $250 bucks, but that was before I saw this brilliantly delivered video...so awesome. I've s[emt as much time building jigs and tools as I have building this dulicimer.....now I'm certian, my next project is this miterbox. Thank you so much. I could watch your videos all day long. You just seem to have so much fun building things.......Thank you
Ingenious solution to the problem of cutting straight vertical lines. Love the idea of using skateboard bearings out of their normal context. You''ve also given me an idea for sharpening my Forstner drill bits - thanks.
Hi Susie, i really enjoy how you create your own versions of these usually fairly expensive items. It’s nice to see yours usually work out well. This one is great...
I"m late to the party but just have to say, what a great piece of work. The one StewMac sells is aluminium but is $260 US. (07/'23) This sure beats the Hell out of that. 😁✌🖖
I just thought I had built a nice fret mitre box. I guess I can toss mine out now and make a new one. Very impressed with your work. Please continue on...
I really enjoy your videos. You are very adept and intuitive. I am very impressed with your welding gloves BTW. (Mine were blackened with heat and carbon). Summing up, your consummate determination to overcome anything. Good job, very well done. Thank you for the videos
Interesting engineering nerdy fact: the back edge of the blade of a properly made tenon saw or backed fret saw is beaten such that it is infinitesimally thinner than the cutting edge and therefore also slightly stretched. If you looked down it without the back you’d see that it is wavy. The brass back holds it straight and puts the leading toothed edge under tension so it acts a little like a hacksaw and is more liable to stay straight in use.
You are such a lovely person, Susan. If you were my elementary school teacher you'd be my favourite. It's really pleasing how you implement absolute precision. I may be good with my hands spending 80% of my time staring at my work, measuring, thinking and make tiny increments of work at a time but even I don't trust my accuracy. Though I am procrastinating even more watching how others go about it because I'm at a point where I need to do complete accuracy and I'm afraid to ruin it.
Amazing I'd say unbelievable but I know people that do stuff like this and I know it's believable but still almost beyond comprehension that you would go or could go to such extremes to master and perfect your trade I'm impressed
It works well. I wouldn’t change anything, but I initially had the indexing pin for the fret slotting template on the wrong side. It needs to be such that the pin is on the side nearest you to the left of the cut. My fret slotting saw is a pull saw and you have to have it pulling against the near side. I think I originally had it the wrong way round, but I may have already corrected it in the videos.
Yes your mitre box is the best from the others really you are a creative mind woodworker, I like your efforts and wonderful genius idea, Thank you for this wonderful and amazing video
Very useful. I am plagued by shop-bought plastic mitre boxes, which wear away the slots in no time. So I'll probably give your idea a go, albeit with a tenon saw in mind, but the principle is the same. I wonder if the bearings could be sprung loaded in such a way (eg small coil springs in a tube) so as to keep them tight against the saw blade without the need for frequent adjustment?
i built one something like that minus all the metal and berings. yours is much more heavey duty. i did add some push clamps that made mine more stabel. awsome work
Turning the brackets around and inlaying the berarings in the MDF would give you a couple of cm more saw action. That is hitech, I just used pieces of nylon from an old cutting board on mine.
The brass back of the saw is “the back”. A ferrule is on a chisel handle. If you want more control with your gents(dovetail) saw, get one with a tenon saw type handle. Those bearings are a great idea. Great video
Hi Susan, I have been making guitars and basses for over 40 years, and absolutely love your fret cutting jig. The only thing I would have done differently, would have been to mount the bearings on the inside, giving you a longer travel for the saw cut. Excellent work!
i made a similar one, but out of wood. the fretboard was attached to a fretboard base that had slots cut into it. The slots were hand cut to the desired scale length. There was a razor blade attached to the bottom of the jig that fit into the slots. The bearing systems was similar except that the bolts that held the bearing fit into holes in the jig. the nuts had heigth adjustment nuts and locking nuts to set the blade height (and corresponding cut depth-think different thickness of fretboard material). worked quite well other than that the saw spine, similar to the one susan used, started to wear on the top edges of the bearing. In susans model, i assume that the brass plates will wear (along with the bottom edge of the spine). Might be better to have the brass plates replaced with some material that is softer than the spine and would be a replaceable wearing part..maybe plastic or aluminium. Some graphite might be helpful here as well.
Hi Susan, David Barrons dovetail guides are worth a look. He also does one for 90 degrees. The saw blade is kept at right angles to the work by magnets.
Love your approach, do you have an engineering background, just wondering because you place a lot of importance on being as accurate as you can. I'm going to use some of your ideas for my slotting jig :)
how did you fit the fretboard into the channel so that it does not rock back and forth (and cause binding or eneven slots) or draw the fret spacing guide away from the pin?..
Hi Susan. This is the first video of yours I've seen, and let me tell you, you are very creative. Gonna have to make something similar - although I will not use it for fretboards, but woodworking in general. I have made a few miter boxes, but every single one of them gets unprecise with use, as you described. Very annoying, really. I'll make some modifications (don't have a welder) but your concept is really fantastic. Congratulations, sister. Cheers!
Use anti-spatter to protect the work when welding. It is wonderful stuff. Also, if you use bolts which are partially threaded, (i.e. bolts not set screws) they will be far more accurate through the bearings. The bit on the top of the saw is called the spine. Very good job though. Well done.
I made one of these today but without the rollers. It works perfectly! The issue I’m facing is depth. As far as I know I want about 2mm for the cut but I haven’t manage to find out what thickness the fretboard should be. And what if I need to slot a difference thickness fretboard? Great video as always!
Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos, algo que los hombres no hacen. Saludos desde Argentina
Great job Susan. I find that I learn so much by building my own jigs, that when I do go to buy a commercial jig, I know exactly what I need it to do. I’ve bought commercial jigs that were not any more accurate than my garage version. Your work on this jig & the fret slotting template was very inspirational & informative. Thanks for sharing!!!!!
I agree, I find when i've made my own templates and jigs for a project, the results are usually better since I've thought through all the required measurements and processes a lot more thoroughly
Getting accurate fret slots is a real challenge. I'm impressed with your solution, by doing it this way your intonation will be right on the money. Thanks for the tutorial,
Susie, I will never make a mitre box, and don't have all your kit even if I wanted to - but I still watched this start to finish - mesmerising!
I'm glad you show all of the little snags and snafus along the way. It's nice to see problem solving strategies in action.
Well thought out precision mitre box. Bearing idea is very clever.
I've spent a long time working on a dulcimer body and neck and I'm ready to cut the slots in my fret board. I almost pulled the trigger on a professional miter box for like $250 bucks, but that was before I saw this brilliantly delivered video...so awesome. I've s[emt as much time building jigs and tools as I have building this dulicimer.....now I'm certian, my next project is this miterbox. Thank you so much. I could watch your videos all day long. You just seem to have so much fun building things.......Thank you
Impressive - neat idea, well executed. And so laid-back when you found that the bolts weren't long enough!
+Roger R I think it’s only guys who get stressed about the length of things
I think you're probably right...
😂😂😂
Some proper engineering, well thought out beforehand. Love the attention for detail!
In the intro when you were talking about friction, I thought why not use bearings. Lo and behold, bearings! Great job.
This is really superb craftmanship (or even craftwomanship). Great command of all engineering skills.
Ingenious solution to the problem of cutting straight vertical lines. Love the idea of using skateboard bearings out of their normal context. You''ve also given me an idea for sharpening my Forstner drill bits - thanks.
Cannot wait to make one, thanks for the walk through!
Now that video was really interesting! Great piece of engineering in that!
Hi Susie, i really enjoy how you create your own versions of these usually fairly expensive items. It’s nice to see yours usually work out well. This one is great...
Love this build. Very well thought out and executed. Building the same way. Thanks for the idea and video!
Brilliant you must be well chuffed.
Really like the precision, nice someone is thinking about this too. Like your innovative ideas.
Excellent work, thoroughly thought out. Thank you
Excellent job. Thank you for sharing.
I"m late to the party but just have to say, what a great piece of work.
The one StewMac sells is aluminium but is $260 US. (07/'23)
This sure beats the Hell out of that. 😁✌🖖
I am going to use this concept for making a jig for cutting dovetails. Thanks for the idea!
I just thought I had built a nice fret mitre box. I guess I can toss mine out now and make a new one. Very impressed with your work. Please continue on...
This is lovely, as well as your channel!
Very nice it looks like the Stew Mac mitre box for fretting..
I am fascinated by the manner in which you solve problems. Most instructive.
I really enjoy your videos. You are very adept and intuitive.
I am very impressed with your welding gloves BTW. (Mine were blackened with heat and carbon). Summing up, your consummate determination to overcome anything. Good job, very well done.
Thank you for the videos
impressive & looks mechanical cool too. thanks for the ideas
You are an exceptional craftsman.
What a great idea for a small miter box! 👍🏻
Great video! Gave me the ideas and inspiration i needed :)
Thank you!
Absolutely excellent design, Susan, and not expensive to make either.
Very accurate and a great idea.
Interesting engineering nerdy fact: the back edge of the blade of a properly made tenon saw or backed fret saw is beaten such that it is infinitesimally thinner than the cutting edge and therefore also slightly stretched. If you looked down it without the back you’d see that it is wavy. The brass back holds it straight and puts the leading toothed edge under tension so it acts a little like a hacksaw and is more liable to stay straight in use.
This is great!
Thank you so much for this video, I have the very same fret saw and a bunch of MDF lying around and was scratching my head about the assembly...
Absolutely brilliant. Was wracking my brains this morning trying to think how to fit rollers to a fretting block.
Very ingenious and elegant.
You are such a lovely person, Susan. If you were my elementary school teacher you'd be my favourite. It's really pleasing how you implement absolute precision. I may be good with my hands spending 80% of my time staring at my work, measuring, thinking and make tiny increments of work at a time but even I don't trust my accuracy. Though I am procrastinating even more watching how others go about it because I'm at a point where I need to do complete accuracy and I'm afraid to ruin it.
Exsellent video!.Very informative.Thanks.
Luthiers: the only people capable of making engineers look sloppy. ;-p
I'm impressed; great build!
thank you . good stuff on this one
Amazing I'd say unbelievable but I know people that do stuff like this and I know it's believable but still almost beyond comprehension that you would go or could go to such extremes to master and perfect your trade I'm impressed
I love your attitude
Nice design.
Thanks Susan, you've just solved the problem that's always annoyed me about mitre blocks!
Great idea Susan. It's been a while since you posted this build. How has it held up? Are you still using it? What would you change, building it today?
It works well. I wouldn’t change anything, but I initially had the indexing pin for the fret slotting template on the wrong side. It needs to be such that the pin is on the side nearest you to the left of the cut. My fret slotting saw is a pull saw and you have to have it pulling against the near side. I think I originally had it the wrong way round, but I may have already corrected it in the videos.
Susan Gardener, thank you the follow up and sharing.
Yes your mitre box is the best from the others really you are a creative mind
woodworker, I like your efforts and wonderful genius idea, Thank you for this wonderful and amazing video
Excellent Sue, I was pretty fed up with ditching Mitre blocks after only 10 uses. Regards. Rudy.
Very smart!
Very useful. I am plagued by shop-bought plastic mitre boxes, which wear away the slots in no time. So I'll probably give your idea a go, albeit with a tenon saw in mind, but the principle is the same. I wonder if the bearings could be sprung loaded in such a way (eg small coil springs in a tube) so as to keep them tight against the saw blade without the need for frequent adjustment?
i built one something like that minus all the metal and berings. yours is much more heavey duty. i did add some push clamps that made mine more stabel. awsome work
I love it.
great job , just amazing . thanks so much :-)
You need a fully equipped workshop, that was excellent and very enjoyable to watch.
Turning the brackets around and inlaying the berarings in the MDF would give you a couple of cm more saw action. That is hitech, I just used pieces of nylon from an old cutting board on mine.
Nice work Susan! If you are ever in Vancouver Canada, please let me take you to brunch.
GREAT VIDEO!!!!! I know what I am making next!!!! Where in the UK are you buying your Fret Saws please?
Love it! :)
Brilliant! and really beautiful hands Lady...
Very good!!
wonderful!!!
The brass back of the saw is “the back”. A ferrule is on a chisel handle. If you want more control with your gents(dovetail) saw, get one with a tenon saw type handle. Those bearings are a great idea. Great video
Hi Susan, I have been making guitars and basses for over 40 years, and absolutely love your fret cutting jig. The only thing I would have done differently, would have been to mount the bearings on the inside, giving you a longer travel for the saw cut. Excellent work!
Thanks Mike
Excellent!
i made a similar one, but out of wood. the fretboard was attached to a fretboard base that had slots cut into it. The slots were hand cut to the desired scale length. There was a razor blade attached to the bottom of the jig that fit into the slots. The bearing systems was similar except that the bolts that held the bearing fit into holes in the jig. the nuts had heigth adjustment nuts and locking nuts to set the blade height (and corresponding cut depth-think different thickness of fretboard material). worked quite well other than that the saw spine, similar to the one susan used, started to wear on the top edges of the bearing. In susans model, i assume that the brass plates will wear (along with the bottom edge of the spine). Might be better to have the brass plates replaced with some material that is softer than the spine and would be a replaceable wearing part..maybe plastic or aluminium. Some graphite might be helpful here as well.
Awesome. Im in love. Could you just have lined the 4 inside sides of the slot with metal?
Excellent Engineering
the alternative of course is to learn proper saw technique like the old masters did with perfect accuracy, but i like gadgets too. very nice.
Please feel free to demonstrate this for us in your own video.
Awesome!
Very interesting and inventive. Useful for anyone needing precision. You should have patented that one
Cool stuff
fantastic
Can you please help, I love your videos but I’m stumped at where to position the location pin? Help please
Hi Susan, David Barrons dovetail guides are worth a look. He also does one for 90 degrees. The saw blade is kept at right angles to the work by magnets.
keith Malpass Jonathan Katz-Moses makes an awesome dovetail jig for hand cut dovetails. They are clear acrylic with magnets.
Lee Valley make one that is just as good but much cheaper than Mr.Barrons or the Katz _Moses thing.
Susan, i think your's is better than the magnets, less friction
Love your approach, do you have an engineering background, just wondering because you place a lot of importance on being as accurate as you can. I'm going to use some of your ideas for my slotting jig :)
Nice!
blows the one i made outta the water. great vids all of them.
Thats awsome Susan!!!! very very nice. i think its better than stewmacs aluminum one. !! i want one now!!
Many thanks
Brilliant
Nice! Now I want one & I'm not even building a guitar......
I would really like to learn how to do all this, how should I proceed?
Brilliant Susan! Well done my girl!
how did you fit the fretboard into the channel so that it does not rock back and forth (and cause binding or eneven slots) or draw the fret spacing guide away from the pin?..
This is very impressive, I hate mitre boxes. I am going to build this.
what is that book or video on your desk there that says "ToolZone"?
Hi Susan. This is the first video of yours I've seen, and let me tell you, you are very creative. Gonna have to make something similar - although I will not use it for fretboards, but woodworking in general. I have made a few miter boxes, but every single one of them gets unprecise with use, as you described. Very annoying, really. I'll make some modifications (don't have a welder) but your concept is really fantastic. Congratulations, sister. Cheers!
Use anti-spatter to protect the work when welding. It is wonderful stuff. Also, if you use bolts which are partially threaded, (i.e. bolts not set screws) they will be far more accurate through the bearings. The bit on the top of the saw is called the spine. Very good job though. Well done.
I made one of these today but without the rollers. It works perfectly! The issue I’m facing is depth. As far as I know I want about 2mm for the cut but I haven’t manage to find out what thickness the fretboard should be. And what if I need to slot a difference thickness fretboard?
Great video as always!
If you make it to accommodate a thick fretboard, you can always
add spacers underneath thinner fretboards. 😁✌🖖
I will wait for the description
Excellent! A joy to watch. Did I see you on a photo at The Crimson building weekend? Was that nessecary? Greetings, Rob
Great job thank you 🙏 ✅👍😍💪
And thank you for doing this genius work
I dub thee ''Lady Pauline Sellers"
I wanted to build this but it is alittle out of my skill level, what would you charge to build one of these?
The brass strip on the top of the saw blade you are struggling to know the name of, is the back. (Its a brass backed saw!)
Did you turn the gas on when welding those nuts?
smart lady good too see
I really like it, I'm just concerned that the MDF will not hold up over time. Maybe plywood would've been the better choice?
Great mitre box to buy one like that would cost a fortune