5 Quick Thickness Planer Hacks - Woodworking Tips and Tricks
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- čas přidán 12. 11. 2017
- Thickness Planers are one of the big time saver power tools in the workshop but they are very limited in what they can do, but there are some things you can do to make them even more useful, like gang planing, jointing larger boards and even tricks to eliminate snipe in your thickness planer machine to name a few.
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IMPORTANT: Everybody is using the sled jig backwards and I can't unsee it. It's not just him, it's literally everyone on CZcams. Tip: The front end of the jig is the end with the fence on it. If you put it through with the fence on the back, the planer will pull your piece right off the shims and probably off of your sled. Also, please be weary if you're using screws on the fence. You REALLY don't want the planer blades to hit those screws. Not recommended. It will be a negative experience.
ALSO, if it helps anybody, I've found that it REALLY helps to put your fence on so that your piece is more toward the center of the sled. This helps prevent snipe, because both the front and back of the sled are already on the in and outfeeds before the peice ever even hits the blade. Hope this helps!
I see what you mean, but it looks like he'd have to be planing off 1/2" if the blades were going to reach the fence. If you're only taking off 1/16" I don't see how the blades would drop to catch the fence
Another quality tips and tricks episode by Colin Knecht.
Thank you Colin!
I just bought my very first thickness planer. There is a learning curve to using it. These hacks are so helpful. Thank you very very much Colin. I LOVE your channel
I just bought mine - a jointer / planer combo 10.5 inch .... there is a learning curve to both the jointer and the planer !!!
Oh and I realized it creates a LOT of saw dust !!!!
Run short pieces corner first. Piece is longer that way.
I should be receiving a thickness planer in the mail today, I will definitely be using the planer sled trick to even out some old barn wood I recently received. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I enjoy your hacks and tips daily, here’s one you might like. On my 12 inch planer I removed the in feed and out feed tables and made a 4ft long sled that slides through the planer bed and gives a smooth and even bed that even helps to refuse snipe. I finished the top with Formica laminate to make wood glide through the planer with no resistance. I also use Formica on many jigs like the bottom of my crosscut sled on my table saw to make it almost frictionless.
A great tutorial as always. Thanks for sharing your valuable experience!
Another trick for figured woods is to dampen the surface of the wood before planing, it tightens up the grain and will minimize chip out
WOW, you just hit tow (maybe three) of the problems I have. I HAVE tried planing the thin part of a board by simply putting it into two other boards and holding it together as it goes in. That works maybe 1/2 the time, and much less is my success with thin boards (of course.) Why it never occurred to me to tape them together the way you showed, well, thanks, this is DEFINITELY a "trick" I'm gonna try. And along with that your "planing jig" is brilliant. And I have some wedges and MDF just sittin' here with YOUR name written ALL over it! Thanks. And the third it seems I figured it out regarding snipe. For no reason I started doing it and it worked darn well, so it's nice to see "my" idea wasn't,uh, "dumb."(And at first I realized the last board in a set won't have a board behind it to keep off the snipe. But I found using one of the boards that had already been through the planer works just fine, and since it's been through once there's little or usually no snipe on IT.)
Thanks again, great "tips." :)
It was a pleasure listening Colin.
Thanks for your time
Great advice and demo. Thank you!
Thanks Colin another helpful video...my thickness planer is on order due to arrive any day now. Great to get some insight into using it ...thanks.
Very good tips. Thanks Colin!
I learned something! Thanks!!
Thank you very much Colin!!!
the first tip was exactly what I was asking if it could be done....awesome thanks Colin
Thank you sir, i'm a big fan of your channel from Romania...learned a lot from you....again thanks.
Some helpful hints. Thanks.
Nice hacks Colin I found a couple of them that even though I've been in the woodworking for 51 years I didn't even know about those.
Thank you.
Another really useful video thanks keep them coming
Stuart
great tips and as always, well pesented, thanks for posting Colin, always enjoy watching your videos, from garry in the UK
Very useful tips, Colin. Thanks for sharing.
Although I do not have a thickness planer (and I am not sure if I'll ever have one) these tips were totally comprehensible.
Very well explained.
Ty Colin, tips I will use for sure, love the Slab sled tip !
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Your videos are amazing, Colin. Very clear and unambiguous explanations, thank you so much!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Love the tip about the live edge boards. Thank you Colin
You're welcome Chuck!
Hi Colin Im Carlos from Guadalajara México y te agradezco los tips me sirven mucho gracias !
Thank you.. Alway informative
Great video, thanks! Regards from Brazil!!
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Don't have budget for a joiner and a planer. Think for my application a planer first. The last tick really helped.
Thanks Colin.
Good tips, you forgot the mention the counter top board that you have in your planer. This reduces snipe as well
superb tips really enjoyed that and the positivity that just emits from the presenter is fantastic, thanks for the vid :D
Super! Thanks!
Always great tips, thanks for sharing : )
Very impressed!
Great basic joinery trade knowledge......be surprised how may don't get show this stuff.
You are the very best. Thank you.
Great tips once again 👍👍👍
Another set of great tips really enjoying this series.
Another winner! I didn't know that about figured wood. I've definitely experienced chip-out....
Thanks for the great tips!
Handy tips, thanks.
Very useful video! Thank you
Thanks!
Helpful ideas. Thanks.
You're Welcome!
Thanks Colin, some great info
Very cool idea about the planer sled!
Thank You Lynn!
THe sheppard idea is just what I need thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Your plank jig works brilliantly 👍👍
Thanks the boards on the side great advice
Thanks Colin 👍🏾 great tips
You're Welcome!
Every single video I have watched with you I have learned something new and very good. Thank GOD I subscribed to your channel.
Great stuff Bro. Thumbs up.
Thank you, very informational.
You're welcome Eddie!
The red tape is cskke. VHB tape by 3m.. good stuff.. and great tip!!!
Top bloke thanks for sharing!
You're welcome
Thanks for the tips. Love your videos
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Very good idea. Thank you very much !!!!!
You're welcome Nilson. Thanks for watching!
Delta is the best!!
Hi. Great video. I wish I had a planer. Regarding the double sided tape. Have a look at the superglue masking tape trick from crimson guitars.
Thanks from the Slam Bang fishing lodge on the west coast coast of Vancouver Island we specialize in great fishing food and good times
fsihing 👍
@@freesuah so far washing Lures
@@slambangfishinglodge1317 fihing 👍
Awesome, thanks for the tipo
You're welcome Anthony. Thanks for watching.
Such great ideas and tips you have. I always get every video you put out. Thanks so much!
thank you
You're welcome
Saludos desde mexico
Some good trips there Colin but you forgot to mention the all important grain direction.
I would not consider that a hack. That's more of a "basics of using a planer" deal.
The one tip/trick i see glaringly obvious in the whole video, is that slab of laminated wood that goes the entire way through your thicknesser that keeps things flat, and allows wood to slide nicely :)
Nice :-) Thx for the Tricks
Nice....
I always wondered if you could still plane edges like that if you made a jig to stabilize them on the side . Didn’t even think of just taping them together!
teşekkürler...
thank you...
Thanks Colin :) Great tip as always ॐ
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Another suggestion for tape is the double-sided turners tape available from Lee Valley. It is very strong, but relatively easy to remove. It is so strong you do not need much, so a roll lasts a long time.
thanks
Thanks as always...rr
You're welcome as always Richard :)
Thanks doc. I have one getting dropped off here in a little bit . You probably saved me a few temper tantrums .
Snipe can be avoided by leaving both ends longer and cutting to length after thickness planing.
Or by using shepherds the same thickness as the piece being planed, but longer on both ends so both pinch rollers are fully engaged while the board being planed. The shepherds *must* be the same thickness to prevent snipe. Starting with thicker shepherds works too, but you have to make extra passes before the work piece starts to be surfaced.
Thank you some goodness there! Rather than wedges (door shims) try using playing cards cheap and very malleable, very useful clamping as well
Griz Woldstad or use Saran Wrap and drywall mud...
That planing jig with spacers for twist is much better than a surface planer/jointer/buzzer and a lot safer and can be used on boards as wide as your thicknesser.
Great video..!
For me,
What about planing 5/16” thick by 3/4 x 2”.
I need small blocks for guitar hole fills ?
Colin - one comment I have is that if you have enough support on the outfeed and your outfeed roller height/tension is adjusted correctly - especially on the makita 2040 - you can avoid having any snipe at all even with one board being run through. i just spent a couple days tuning up my 2040.
Lifting up on the bords when they enter and exit greatly reduces snip.
Thanks Colin, I always enjoy your videos. My planer won't feed the wood through no mater what I have tried. Cleaning, adjusting etc. Have you done a video describing how to adjust or set the rollers for this type of problem? Mechanically it appears to be working o.k.
What kind of planer? Size, brand etc?
I run boards through on edge all the time! It's never once been a problem, and I've done it hundreds of times. But I've never done it on anything thinner than maybe 1", so maybe that's a factor.
I did even 1/4 of an inch and didn't have a problem. You are actually supposed to do 2 sides on the jointer and 2 sides with the planer
@@PhilGroene Well the purpose of this is for those who DON'T have a JOINTER!!!!
@@aussiegrace no, it was regarding the question whether you can run pieces on the small side through the planer
aussiegrace even with a jointer you must joint one face and one edge and them du the other two sides through the planer to get a perfect straight board
@@meinkonto2034 wrong person!!!!
You can feed single boards through on edge just fine, just not with a thickness:width ratio of much more then 1:10.
In regards to the first tip. Why not use two small G clamps to hold the pieces of vertical timber together? One at either end, just make sure the tightening rod is horizontal
if by mistake the wood turns inside than the cutting head will hit the G clamp and it`s a fucked up situation. Or if the wood turns and the g clamp hits the margin the the wood is not advancing anymore
Thanks Colin, I'll be buying a thickness planer soon and was wondering if a helix blade will help with a lot of the problems you mentioned, especially sniping.
I think sniping has more to do with the feed rolls
The helix cutter head is most advantageous for figured grain and better dust collection (finer shavings). And they stay sharp longer. Quieter as well.
Is MDF always a reliable flat surface? I have some that was probably not stored correctly that's not flat at all. Thanks for the tips, though. Very useful.
Should I be using a solid piece of wood on planer like you have.
When running twisted boards through on the sled I just place a screw at the corner of the high corner of the slab and adjust the height until wobble is gone. This works great, no need for various shims which slide around. Just be sure to remove the screw before planing the other side. I didn’t once and oh oh.
Exactly... Just don't put steel anywhere near the planer! Hence the shims not screws. Besides, a screw may be undesirable depending on the work piece
That is an interesting idea. It might be better to screw onto the sled instead. If you don't mind taking the time, you could put a bunch of bolt taps into the sled and then they are reusable.
Hi I hope someone can help me. about the shorts: I have a Ridgid 13" planer and it says not to run boards shorter than 14" but I make cutting boards so some are shorter than that but they are all glued so they are a bit hefty and heavy especially the side grain ones. Do you think I can run them through okay? If not I'll try the hack Colin's hack. Thank you
Can the planning jig be used for small pieces of wood instead of the shepherd boards?
Hey Colin. Just seen this video and having just recently gotten a planer this has happened a couple of times. Your idea of butting the wood together is brilliant but you mentioned that the last board would still get the snipe. What about using a piece of scrap for the very last piece that way it gets the snipe not the wood your making?
Yes, it called using a Sacrificial board and can work well at times. Give it a try and see if it works for you.
Thanks for watching.
I have same planner I need to replace roller can you help me getting them rebuild im in Ottawa
Some great tips Colin...as always. The 3M double sided tape is a quality product but also expensive. When running multiple boards to plane the side edges, you can pinch them together and secure with cheap painter's tape at each end across the end grains. Snipe is so common and distracts from the functions of a thickness planer....I'm surprised that manufacturers have not yet found a way to eliminate it. The company that can eliminate snipe will rule the market!
Some planer designs are better than others for minimizing snipe, for example, the four-poster-screw method of adjusting thickness is superior to the older, two-screw in the middle type. A lot of table shake in those older designs, as the ways wear unevenly over the years. Trouble is, I find those two-screw designs so incredibly convenient for adjusting the cut to even, parallel thickness after changing the knives, that I am willing to put up with it!
One hack that it looks like you have, but didn't mention as a hack, is the bed of your planer. The metal over MDF or similar. Did the planer come like that, or is that something you added? It looks added. It looks like it would cut down on the snipe on the ends of the board being planed.
For the planer sled I Just use a bit of hot melt glue
I'm about to use a planer for the first time. Is there a way to tell where I need those wedges on the planer jig? Is it just a pressure test to see if the board wobbles then?
I make cutting boards. Occasionally, i will have one that is not flat. I lay it on my table saw, the flattest thing in my shop, shim the corners with thin strips of wood. I hot glue the shims. Run it through my planer or drum sander. Works good.
1st to comment again sir :)... im just enjoying your vids very informative
Thanks for watching!
Colin what do you think of hot glue instead of tape? Does it cause any problems such as finishing?
Dont know about that but you could nail them together at the ends. I dont have problems running boards on edge.
Colin, some of your audience would benefit from CC. I have tried several times to decipher the rigamarole assigned to us setting it up, to no avail. I have a hearing disability so CC is my only option.
Why do you have the piece of wood across the bed on your planer? Does this help with feeding?
Maybe just more stable than the cheap in and outfeed tables.