I suppose for someone that is looking for basic info to find and stop a leak there’s some good info , but there is no replacement for properly installed metal flashing, sealers and coatings are temporary at best and will fail eventually, as well cosmetically it looks horrible
Thank you SO much for this information - I am a 60 year old woman with no building experience and you’ve totally rocked my world! On the east coast of Australia at the moment it is almost impossible to get tradesmen to do any kind of work let alone repairs to a flat concrete roof like mine. After seeing your video I went to the hardware store, bought the only bituminous product and fleece I could find (the one you use isn’t available in this country) and have spent a chunk of this week two storeys up on my roof grinding back and sealing everything I could find that looked like it could leak. It’s supposed to start raining again tomorrow so let’s see how it goes… (BTW if you want to test how waterproof it is - try making the rookie mistake of not wearing gloves and see how hard it is to get off your hands once it’s dried!!!) 🤣
unfortunately, bitumen-based products crack up after awhile. this is why he recommends using a polyurethane-based product. you will have to do more repairs after a few years because the bitumen cracks and allows water to seep into it. he always recommends against it. :(
@@thaismatsumoto So far so good! There was another area on our concrete deck that appeared to be the cause of a major leak downstairs so I sealed that as well. I have since replaced and repainted two damaged gyprock ceilings and to date there hasn't been the hint of a leak. Fingers crossed!
USE A MASK AND GLOVES!! .... Naas and everyone reading, many building products contain asbestos, don't grind and pulverise building materials without a mask. Do it for the love of your lungs!. Remember that asbestos particles cannot be seen by naked eye they are microscopic. Visit a respiratory clinic and you will never need reminding. Have watched many of your videos and it seems you don't mix your turbo sealant before applying it. Your videos clearly show lumps of components that have not been mixed properly. Your repairs are very functional Naas, you are a very pragmatic and talented person and a bit sloppy. Your sealant is very expensive, why waste so much? Also at 19:29 you can clearly see the sealant with surface cracks. Not major but they are cracks and that is 2 years after the application. Would be nice to see a 10 year old job. It seems Turbo seal definitely needs a protective UV coat on top. Keep up the good work
No ,no ,no. At any roof/wall abutment you should grind a chase in at least 1" deep and then slide in a 6" lead, bend it down and then pointed with 4:1 Sand/cement mix.
You have to take his results with a grain of salt; it is virtually impossible to adhere to entirely different materials and make still together. “Never have to do it again” is huckster talk. Two years isn’t enough time to prove anything; latex paint is still good in two years. For example; a metal tool with a wood handle, wood never stops expanding and contracting; thus the wood handle is loose or tight!
Why do buildings have to be painted again and again so often. Paint does not last. So, remove the paint to be able to adhere to the cement or brick surface. Then paint over that. Not the other way round
@@FlatRoofDoctor I wasn’t suggesting that ordinary latex paint be used instead of your advertised product; I was inferring that even paint will last two years NOT forever as you state numerous times that your product will! Bringing any substrate down to its bare surface, removing dust and debris will provide the best results; whether it be masonry, metal or wood.
i only have one thing to say beware the fly by night gypsey roofers are now making videos this guy has no roofing experiance he is taking your money and making a mess he contradicts himself he only uses millwaulky tool and brush 2 minutes later he is using a craftsman grinder and tells you dont use the wire brush it just makes a mess lol hes shotty scotty roof
He's the flat roof doctor and he's using the wrong tools to scrape the cracks? So what exactly am I supposed to learn from him? How not to do it, I guess. 🙃
There has to be alternatives to Turbo Poly Seal.... because it is not cost effective to get that stuff mailed all over the country... If you're making video's for the USA you should include products as alternatives.
There exist other brands that uses the same technology. Here in EU it is called a "Rubber Seal" made by a Dutch company called "Bison". Everything is completely the same.
Yes, in the UK a imilar product called "isoflex" is fantastic. You need to use the specific primer, spend time properly preparing and it will last for decades. Fail to prepare....then prepare to fail. Preparation is the key to success with any product.
Wow, I can’t believe that you would use this product on a roof. If you just used a lead flashing and this is bedding into the mortar joints, and re pointed up. this would never leak in a life time. Just masking over the problem... 😂
You old school guys are the best 👍
I suppose for someone that is looking for basic info to find and stop a leak there’s some good info , but there is no replacement for properly installed metal flashing, sealers and coatings are temporary at best and will fail eventually, as well cosmetically it looks horrible
Thank you SO much for this information - I am a 60 year old woman with no building experience and you’ve totally rocked my world! On the east coast of Australia at the moment it is almost impossible to get tradesmen to do any kind of work let alone repairs to a flat concrete roof like mine. After seeing your video I went to the hardware store, bought the only bituminous product and fleece I could find (the one you use isn’t available in this country) and have spent a chunk of this week two storeys up on my roof grinding back and sealing everything I could find that looked like it could leak. It’s supposed to start raining again tomorrow so let’s see how it goes… (BTW if you want to test how waterproof it is - try making the rookie mistake of not wearing gloves and see how hard it is to get off your hands once it’s dried!!!) 🤣
unfortunately, bitumen-based products crack up after awhile. this is why he recommends using a polyurethane-based product. you will have to do more repairs after a few years because the bitumen cracks and allows water to seep into it. he always recommends against it. :(
Let us know how well it worked. It been a few months.😊.
@@thaismatsumoto So far so good! There was another area on our concrete deck that appeared to be the cause of a major leak downstairs so I sealed that as well. I have since replaced and repainted two damaged gyprock ceilings and to date there hasn't been the hint of a leak. Fingers crossed!
USE A MASK AND GLOVES!! .... Naas and everyone reading, many building products contain asbestos, don't grind and pulverise building materials without a mask. Do it for the love of your lungs!. Remember that asbestos particles cannot be seen by naked eye they are microscopic. Visit a respiratory clinic and you will never need reminding. Have watched many of your videos and it seems you don't mix your turbo sealant before applying it. Your videos clearly show lumps of components that have not been mixed properly. Your repairs are very functional Naas, you are a very pragmatic and talented person and a bit sloppy. Your sealant is very expensive, why waste so much? Also at 19:29 you can clearly see the sealant with surface cracks. Not major but they are cracks and that is 2 years after the application. Would be nice to see a 10 year old job. It seems Turbo seal definitely needs a protective UV coat on top. Keep up the good work
100% agreed. Also better to put down a sheet where you work so you don't keep spilling the product on the unnecessary area.
Thanks for posting. Very informative useful information. This has been helpful in my Facilities Technician Work.
Thank you Flat Roof Dr. WIFE for videos of your skillful and very helpful husband.
Milwaukee should send you some tools after this 😄
thank you informative video👍
Thanks for sharing beautiful couple an company
Our pleasure!
This was very informative and educational. Thank you for sharing. Do you know where one can get the polyseal or just the fleece?
No ,no ,no. At any roof/wall abutment you should grind a chase in at least 1" deep and then slide in a 6" lead, bend it down and then pointed with 4:1 Sand/cement mix.
So that falls out a year later .
Very good 👍👍👍
You have to take his results with a grain of salt; it is virtually impossible to adhere to entirely different materials and make still together. “Never have to do it again” is huckster talk. Two years isn’t enough time to prove anything; latex paint is still good in two years.
For example; a metal tool with a wood handle, wood never stops expanding and contracting; thus the wood handle is loose or tight!
Why do buildings have to be painted again and again so often. Paint does not last. So, remove the paint to be able to adhere to the cement or brick surface. Then paint over that. Not the other way round
@@FlatRoofDoctor I wasn’t suggesting that ordinary latex paint be used instead of your advertised product; I was inferring that even paint will last two years NOT forever as you state numerous times that your product will!
Bringing any substrate down to its bare surface, removing dust and debris will provide the best results; whether it be masonry, metal or wood.
Wow fantastic great job sweetheart 😘
Great job， what kind of membrane did you use? thx
I use a product in the UK called Bostik Flexacryl instant repair, it's the business, very similar product
Wouldn't it be best to apply silver paint coat after the Turbo Poly Seal dries to prolong the life of the repair?
Who are the people to call for such repairs that won't break an arm and a leg?
Take a Mexican selling oranges off the freeway
can somone recomend how to repair this leak its olny leaking when there is a major storm
watch a bunch of videos, that is free and more info than anyone can help you. educate yourself
i only have one thing to say beware the fly by night gypsey roofers are now making videos this guy has no roofing experiance he is taking your money and making a mess he contradicts himself he only uses millwaulky tool and brush 2 minutes later he is using a craftsman grinder and tells you dont use the wire brush it just makes a mess lol hes shotty scotty roof
I cant find the Turbo Poly seal or the fleece Thank you
What is the black gloop?
He's the flat roof doctor and he's using the wrong tools to scrape the cracks? So what exactly am I supposed to learn from him? How not to do it, I guess. 🙃
There has to be alternatives to Turbo Poly Seal.... because it is not cost effective to get that stuff mailed all over the country... If you're making video's for the USA you should include products as alternatives.
There exist other brands that uses the same technology.
Here in EU it is called a "Rubber Seal" made by a Dutch company called "Bison".
Everything is completely the same.
@@akoznasovajusername ppl
Yes, in the UK a imilar product called "isoflex" is fantastic. You need to use the specific primer, spend time properly preparing and it will last for decades.
Fail to prepare....then prepare to fail. Preparation is the key to success with any product.
Pls guide me from where I can find it in India. Please provide distributors name in India.
Can I use this stuff on shingles?
Wow, I can’t believe that you would use this product on a roof. If you just used a lead flashing and this is bedding into the mortar joints, and re pointed up. this would never leak in a life time.
Just masking over the problem... 😂
what are you talking about
The problem is the pointing always cracks and falls out over time .
This blokes repairs look dreadful though and he charges 1200 dollars an hour 😂
What an absolute mess all of these "repairs" look .
HACK
You should see him do a drain lol
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