My Xbox Wants To Die. I'm Not Letting it.
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2023
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I love how we went from adding a mod chip to contemplating the workings of the universe
i clicked on this video to watch someone work on an xbox, not have an existential crisis.
@@itslikeshit2i came for both
same@@DannyGruesome
Literally the reason i like this guy
@@DannyGruesome I came
Im glad that you are saving it from suicide ❤
Bringus is a good biscuit. 🤗
evil man denies his subject his desired rest. vile....
@@arrivederciheheeeeee5809"I'm done,done with this!I just want rest...please...PLEASE!"
"NO"
@@theducknamednewepicla9507 exactly what happened
o
it’s so satisfying watching someone upgrade old hardware
is it is it really?🤣🤣🤣
@@raven4k998hey, people are different, I’ll be honest this is calming and relaxing
i agree
same@@iconic_artefact
MUMSSSS
I liked the respect you pay to the power supply. Many people say it's exagerated or such without knowing that the caps easily hold 400V. Sometimes switching it on and off does discharge them in some ways but I'd always check the caps anyways. Great job- very entertaining btw 😊
There is no way a cap in a consumer device will hold 400V. Where should they get a 400V supply from?
Probably rated for 400V but actually charged at 120V seems more realistic. Anyways, the Voltage a cap is charged at isn't the dangerous part
I've been shocked by an original Xbox power supply. It hurts quite a bit.
@@Monsuco It does hurt but it's far away from dangerous. Actually when you plan on recapping the device you can just put a screwdriver with a insulated handle between the contacts of the bigger caps and discharge them this way before working on it ;)
@@best591 I tend to use incandescent light bulb to discharge caps
@@best591 240VAC rectified is 340VDC. Not as high as 400V but it will definitely hurt a lot. So If you're in a 240V country, be careful around power supplies
The controller disconnects because the Xbox actually reboots every time it launches a xbe
I highly recommend swapping out the capacitors on the motherboard, dvd drive, and power supply to give it the longest life possible.
I'd also love to see you do a 128mb ram upgrade!
careful with those PSU caps though, if you're gonna replace them, know how to handle them safely (bleed resistors, store them shorted, etc), and make sure your voltage rating is at least as high as the originals, and the ESR (equivalent series resistance) is as low as you can find. you don't want those things blowing up
@@spambot7110 Good tips for electrolytic capacitors, or even just really big ones.
@@spambot7110naaah just take a screwdriver and short the poles of the electrolytes. I mean, of course the proper way is to discharge them with a resistor, but it's more fun with the sparks and all. As for voltage, you're absolutely right, for example put a 16V cap instead of 25V and after a few minutes you'll have your very own magic smoke generator.
@@masterkamen371 maybe, depending on the size of the cap, and how well you trust your gut on "how much energy can i dissipate in a split second before it becomes a problem for me". And hopefully the screwdriver is sufficiently insulated, and preferably the device ground is floating WRT both ground and your body... i'm making that sound a lot more restrictive than it really is, but you get the point, it's not just a universally ok thing.
also this is only the safety aspect. if you care about the lifespan of the capacitor (or the rest of the device), it's probably not a good idea to subject them to very high currents outside of what they're rated for; in addition to that being a lot of pulsed power to dissipate, it's got a pretty fast rise and fall time, so depending on the ESL of the capacitor (plus the inductance of the screwdriver), you're potentially overshooting past 0V and subjecting the device to a negative voltage transient. plus the fact that you're not a low-bounce high-current switch, but a human with a screwdriver, so it's probably not a single current pulse but several random ones, adding a bunch of random frequency content into the mix to interact with the rest of the circuit in unpredictable ways.
The solder joints needing a reflow is pretty common on the 1.0 Xbox with Foxlink power supplies. The power ports move from unplugging and plugging the power cable overtime so eventually the solder joints may need a reflow. Some Xboxes were actually catching on fire because of it. The newer power supplies are much better and the power ports are bolted into the power supply board.
The reason why XBlast OS was saying that C:\BIOS does not exist is because of the ShadowC from your softmod. XBlast OS can't see the ShadowC partition.
Also a tip for removing heatsinks from an Xbox. Disassemble the Xbox with the hard drive and DVD drive connected, power it on and play a game or sit on the dashboard for a few minutes so that the heatsinks heat up. Then turn off the console and unplug it, then the heatsinks should be simpler to remove. Though heating it up with a heat gun also does work.
That makes sense about the AC plugs. I didn't comment on it during the video but I noticed there were mounting holes on each side of the plug, but they just didn't mount to anything. It's just staying in place by the solder joints, which is incredibly dumb lol
@@BringusStudios Yeah not sure what that's about. Seems like a bit of an oversight on their part or something. Some people put a bit of glue around the port to keep it from moving too which is a good idea. Great video btw, enjoyed watching it
Finally, bringus is learning to fix things
just fix your problems with a gentle application of alcohol🤣
when you accidentally replace your IDE hard drive with a mysterious brick labeled "IED"
Real
kaboom
This is the kind of vibe I want from tech vids
Yes please
Awesome stuff as usual, i've shocked myself while i was messing around with my ps2 slim when i accidentally touched the power supply so i man i know your pain, it's so satisfying to watch you tinker with hardware, The entertainment value is through the roof because of your style.
The PS2 slim has an external PSU, so... nope.
@@damustermann Damn dude you sure got me, Except the 90000 PS2 Slim series have internal PSUs, Damn though, You sure gave me a sick burn.
Should have went ahead and did the 128mb upgrade while you had it open. I have full faith that you can do it....plus I demand to be entertained damnit...😂. Also did you use 80wire IDE cable?Thanks for the video
I think there are 256 mb upgrades now?
@@PowerPuffBoysZ Yup, 256mb through Project Stellar (though it's not functional yet, waiting on the next firmware update where it should be fixed). And I believe XBMC was updated to allow 512mb, but it was unofficial, so ymmv
@@xxjayymonroe96xx86so bassicallly the ram of xbox 360 and ps3, even tho I don't own a original xbox, I own a ps2, and it amazes me how much yall modding community came to even upgrade ram to next gen
@@Secrethiden Yeah, it's absolutely wild lol
@@xxjayymonroe96xx86 At that point, why not a CPU and GPU upgrade?
Brook converters are designed for wired use, and their largest market is fighting game players. I would see the wireless as a nice little extra and not the primary function. Not excuses for brook, just something to keep in mind, as to not get too disappointed with the adapter
I have found the adapter doesn’t work in certain homebrew applications without being power cycled first. Project Stellar has an adverse reaction that not even Cerbios has where after the boot animation the adapter won’t work without a power cycle so using IGR requires cycling the adapter which is pointless.
I've been using the v1 of Wingman XB on both OG and 360 with various PS4-compatible controllers (DS4, a Chinese clone, Raiju Ultimate) over Bluetooth and it works flawlessly without disconnecting. I wonder if it's the dongle itself or the differences in hardware (v1.4 with Aladdin XT) or software (XBMC4Xbox with no IGR, possibly a different version of EvoX M8 with different settings).
too many people take their own lives over temporary issues. while "xbox" is quite an unusual name it's beautiful in its own right and im glad you are supporting your child through these tough times ❤❤❤❤
Is this an AI-generated comment?
@@hal5474 Don't think so, probably justa sh1tpost.
@@hal5474 no im just hilarious and extremely attractive haha
PLEASE DELETE THIS PART OF THE AI MESSAGE TO GET YOUR $65,000 FROM OPENAI'S ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT
@@tgirltouhou why I can see this comment (the one were you respond that you are not a bot) from your account but from the CZcams comment section it's like it doesn't exist?
@@valecasini I imagine they got auto-filtered for, ironically, sounding too much like a bot while explaining that they weren't a bot.
God I’m so happy I found your channel. It’s like a deranged mix of Dank Pods and Michael MJD and my god I love it
Keep up the amazing work brother.
Have you ever updated your ZV-E10? You can also check your settings if you can set the higher temps for this cam to shut off.
For anyone who's looking for a vloging cam or something:
ZV-E10 is a great tool for the price but either buy body-only or throw away the meh quality, easy to break kit lens and get something better (like SELP18105G).
But at the end of the day any camera with any lens would be better than any smartphone. Thanks for reading and have a nice day ;)
I second this, the kit lens holds the camera back and there are some great affordable options out there that'll get much better results. I've been using my ZV-E10 on a filmmaking course and the biggest issues have been the micro-HDMI and the rolling shutter performance, that's all.
ill keep this in mind because i just recently got that camera and low key was upset to hear this dudes overheated lol
Biggest mistake is that you are recording with camera, not with extrernal HDMI-screen.
Amazing camera, but Sony is never made for recording video long times as it can put out really good clean signal to HDMI.
Great video! Just a small warning that I've had two of those Seagate ST2000LM007 drives die on me within months of usage and a few online areas cite high failure rates for the ST2000LM007 and ST2000LM035 rosewood drives. After only a few months of using mine in a laptop both died from stuck heads very fast. Maybe it's just bad luck I've had but it really left a sour taste from Seagate with those two particular drives in question. Keep a back up of your files handy! Awesome build though!
Really... Well I'm glad I TSOP'd it then in case the drive dies. Should make recovery easier
Gotta hit the thermal material longer with heat; It begins to change states from concrete to goo. Check for trace rot and cracked solder joints at your 12 pin power connector, very common. Also get Cerbios, it's great.
i would suggest using cerbios as your bios (newest and most features) also you can use up to a 16tb drive with one partition
I imagine playing the xbox port of morrowind would be a pain then as the controller would dissconect during load screens
0:42 not sure if you are aware but that is an SMR HDD, doesn't perform as well as CMR drives
8:47 it might've been better to turn it on and let the chip heat the heatsink from the inside out rather than trying to heat the outside with a heat gun and let it slowly trickle to the place you actually want heated (also probably would've hurt your fingers less due to heating it from the chipset)
SMR mostly hurts when doing a ton of writes. A 2TB hard drive on an OG Xbox will probably only be written to once.
@@shanez1215 Ah, didn't know the writes were the only thing that suffers but tbh, if I have the choice, I'd always choose CMR unless SMR is SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper as I don't know of many use cases with not a lot of writes for a hard drive (other than this instance)
@@JordanPlayz158even if the Xbox did tons of writes, SMR write speeds would still be above the max speed the Xbox can utilize for writes and would have no difference over CMR drives. This is only true on the console however as SMR will be slower when hooked to a PC to install lots of games that way.
@@YTP2go I doubt it applies to all consoles, only older consoles like the Xbox and I did acknowledge it likely wouldn't be an issue in this instance
Anything with an IDE bus is going to be speed limited to the point that even slow modern tech is enough to saturate the bus. Even Temu SSDs on an adapter. SMR drives are terrible, though
The undulating is caused by rolling shutter. Your camera doesn't capture an entire frame simultaneously, it captures the frame row by row. This leads to that wobbly effect when there is motion that is really fast. If you've seen those photos or videos of propellers, that's the same effect.
3 minutes in first time watching your channel. You get the sub. The subtle jokes and charisma already won me over. Plus the bit about existing was literally me 2 days ago.
I gotta say, I love your video filming and editing style! Feels kinda like an American DankPods for retro gaming hobbyists lol.
You just earned a sub, you're going places!
Glad you enjoyed!
Yep. This video really did remind me of DankPods (the desk thumbnail already had me there)
American Dankpods, YES
This is my new favourite channel now.
i can see a collab in the multiverse
You need to use a newer bios like cerbios, not evoxm8+. With cerbios udma6 you can have a lot faster ide speeds and 2TB partition.
Ahhh good to know, I wasn't sure how best to choose the BIOS. Might go back and reflash then
For what it's worth, patches for EvoX M8+ do exist that allow hard drives larger than 2TB to be used. But Cerbios is still great and it's got more features.
The rust that you noticed on the case was directly under a fan, I'd assume that it's probably pulling in some humidity and that moisture caused the rust? My best guess at least
The reason that c/BIOS didn't exist might be because of your softmod, some softmods have a virtual C drive known as shadowC you may have had the bios in the shadowC not actual C that xblast was looking for
It was more likely because he didn’t name the bios he wanted to use as bios.bin. He did everything except for that. Net flash has also been reliable for me and is required for anyone like me who expanded their C partition in FatXplorer as Xblast won’t read a C drive that is not the stock ~500MB size.
the getting shocked part comes from that big round thingy, capacitator, just short it out and it will discharge instantly, touch a screwdriver to both leads at same time, look it up before you try but thats how its done
That's usually fine, but there's a non-zero chance that makes the capacitor just fucking explode, and that's not very fun either.
@@zombie_pigdragon your non zero chance is a failed cap or one way too damn big, but in typical consumer devices this is de wei
14:22 Yeah, that's a softmod problem. I think it has to do with the shadow C partition.
This is reminding me that I am neglecting to remove my clock capacitor
It's a ticking time bomb. The last 3 xbox's I have taken apart the clock capacitors were leaking. One of them had already destroyed the traces to the power button. I had to run new wires for them. Better to do it sooner then later.
Just got TPU yesterday so a great idea to use for some new feet
Great video. I also had a hard time with bridging those tiny solder points. Also setting up the partitions took me longer than expected. It works great though.
I didn't know about the IDE cable thing, thanks for the tip!
Huh... never realised that there were "grippy" materials for 3 printing... cool
uh oh
Out of all the several original Xboxes I've hard modded and soft modded, NOT ONE behaved correctly during the modding process. Even when following guides to the letter they'd still throw fits. Glad I'm not the only one that's dealt with this frustration. Glad you got it modded and working.
if youre still interested in making it quieter, i'd highly suggest MattKC's video of him making his quieter. Swapped HDD for SSD and replaced the rear exhaust fan for a newer and quieter one. Disc drive still makes a bit of noise but not much to do about that besides going modchip and filling a drive with backups
I'm not even an electronics guy but I love watching your videos.
Back when i modded my xbox i ran into the ide issue, i used flush cutters and some sandpaper& got rid of the nubs. The cable is so folded it is held in place fine (or hot glue for safety)
And an idea for an internal mod, have the power going to the modules on a switch on the back, no power and itll default to controller ports!
Put SteamOS on it. Do it.
ok i made this comment as a dumb joke why do we have 100 likes-
Yes
This is terrible idea
This is good idea
This is a great idea
I'm switching teams. This is a BAD idea
This is the first time in so long I find a guy that works with a bunch of gaming devices yet makes jokes at the same time, keep up the great work
I love how positive you were during all the issues I would have had 3 breakdowns lol Great video!
Man theres no way you made a video of these types so fun tf, good on you man definitely a new sub from me!
Wow she runs like a dream now! Those power supplies are no joke... Even scared my father who always had the mentality of "I can do that, why call someone else to do it if I can do it within the hour?"... Yeah, let's just say he went to fix an oven once and got thrown across the room, quite literally. The oven worked after though! He knew he was pretty lucky to walk away from that one with nothing but a bruised ego.
The will it blend reference is craaaazy
0:48
I bought a similar one of those, but for PS3/4.
A family member stole it after I gifted him a modded PS3, they work great.
I would throw in the Stellar modchip, along with the hdmi mod, and replace the fan witha noctua one, and instead of an HDD use an SSD.
Other than that, great video, nice seeing someone finally not yoloing a PSU.
okay i admit it.. when you saw the text "Do not press on this surface" and you actually touched it, that explosion was kinda funny and unexpected... 🤣
7:55 that might not have even been 120VAC, that might have been 3 or 4 hundred volts DC. that's right, on power supplies with an active PFC, before they step *DOWN* the voltage, they actually first step it *UP* (the reason for this is really interesting but a bit involved for a youtube comment, but the simplified version is: it allows it to make better use of the incoming AC power; without power factor correction a power supply will only draw power from the grid in short bursts during just the peaks of the sine wave when the voltage is at its highest, which places unnecessary strain on the power grid, so power supplies above a certain wattage are required to correct for this)
the rust is just from moisture in the air. You could remove the metal shield as it is mostly there for FCC guidelines and rf filtering. but On the other hand. Vinegar should help remove some of it.
haven't watched all the way through, hope it doesn't die.
@@_moonlumen R.I.P
Using screws to apply grease, that’s my Bringus!
I loved the sound effects synced up to your movements, great detail!
brake parts cleaner, the non chlorinated kind is the best solvent i have found, works great for weed pipes too , instead of waiting like with alcohol you just spray it away, use a q tip if its delicate
OG Xbox Gaming = Existential crisis
I also have one of these Xbox’s and I have THUG 2 on disk and it takes 45 minutes to boot the game because the disk is really old and scratched😢
In the future I would recommend not even touching the plastic laser lens inside of the drive
I have a revision 1.0 XBOX as well, I replaced the DVD drive with one from a slightly more dead XBOX and now it works great.
If you haven't done it already definitely look at replacing caps such as the leaky clock cap.
Just remove the clock cap you don’t need it anymore. Only on 1.6 you have to replace it, I believe you can bypass the clock setup with custom dashboards
Clock cap is literally useless on 1.0-1.4 and no longer an annoyance after modded. Clock caps also have the 2nd worst lifetime of all capacitors.
It really wants to be an ex box!
This is so impressive to me. I have a feeling this is going to become an art-form of its own similar to old trades.
Amazing job man. Love the thorough explanations (and the humor)
The fixing problems with alcohol joke was pretty good ngl. You just got yourself a sub
Came for nerdy console content, stayed for the great humor and jokes
The Xbox runs either the system menu, or a game. Nothing is run in parallell. So I bet that when you transition between the dashboard and a game the system just forgets that a controller is connected. With wired controllers this isn't a problem since they are instantly connected, but the adapters wireless protocol will be interupted and you'll need to reconnect.
Yeah a bit lame. It just caught me off guard because I assumed that all of the processing for the wireless stuff would just be done on the Brook adapter's end, and then the Xbox would just see it as any old controller and it wouldn't ever make the Xbox aware that the controller was disconnected. Maybe the Brook adapter briefly loses power during an xbe launch and it screws up the connection
Capacitors will recharge themselves overtime if not kept in storage specifically designed to prevent charge from building up, they charge crazy fast if exposed to candescent lights. In the shop we’ll leave a low capacity capacitor lying on a table to remind whoever picked it up to either always wear their gloves or never fuck with capacitors.
I have no clue how to do any of this but still got through the video. Good narration skills man!
"Oh man, I am way too caffeinated for this!" I loled.
Bro became self aware during an Xbox mod video 😂
13:53 since that rust is directly inline with the intake fan, im guessing its just a reault of humidity from the air
The rust on the bottom RF shield is probably from dust collecting there. My theory is the dust asorbs moisture in the air and then over time causes the metal to rust. I see it alot when recycling electronics that are dusty and ran in a humid environment.
that edit at 13:39 had me laugh hecka loud
the xbox will *SURVIVE*
Im pretty sure the controller disconnects when you launch a game is because the system actually does a hidden restart whenever you launch or close a program
Loving the oldschool "will it blend" reference. Great video. Educational & Entertaining!
hey bringus! dont know if youve thought about this, but you should really do a ps vita video in the "your blank can do so much more" series!
It's on the agenda!
@@BringusStudios Nice!
@@BringusStudiosif you do highlight the amazing ports like xash3d and re3/revc/gta san andreas.
@MattKC Aprroved!!
My og xbox was super rusted best thing is to sand it a lil then apply plasti-dip it will peel off when you want it and isnt so to say permanent but as long as you dont touch at it and since it is in the console any way it makes for a good covering over the rusted metal which prevents it from rusting more.
Pro tip btw, you can use auto body compound on a q-tip to remove expired thermal goop.
Is it possible that the controller disconnecting issue is caused by the fact that when you launch each game/app, it's probably shutting off the front ports for a brief second while it clears ram? 🤔
That's my best guess
I love Half-Life 2 on the original xbox
Rust on the shield tends to be caused by dust. Specifically, the dust attracts moisture from the air, creating the conditions for underlying shielding to oxidize. And Xbox shielding just oxidizes like crazy.
11:40 to be sure, you can use your screwdriver to bridge the pins of each capacitor
this ensures that they are completely discharged
I can’t believe you would just give away your feet like that
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I'm a bit curious, so I hope you help me understand why, but I'm a bit interested as to why you went with a spinning platter over solid state for the storage. Like even if the xbox cant really utilize much of the extra speed, I could imagine the silent operation with no vibration and the longevity of an ssd being a huge plus. Was it just a cost thing or is there some sort of compatibility issue?
ssd doesn't last longer then a hdd
@@thehammerthatdestorysthings they absolutely do. If nand flash fails, the data still persists, you just can't write to it anymore, and I have SSDs in devices that are over 10 years old that are still going strong while the HDDs that I have of the same age are full of metal shards and are completely unusable. And before you go comparing archive drives to consumer SSDs, there are archival SSDs that are meant to be some of the most persistent data possible currently
7:55 Nice memories. That reminded me the one time I was changing the micro-dlp chip from a prjector. Hole reparation was successfull, I managed to put it almost correct together and the thing was running, when I noticed, that a cable was touching a fan in an uncomfortable way. So I decided to push the cable in the correct position. With a screwdrive. While running. BOOM! Flash! Fireball!
Kind of a bad idea, but at least I just broke the damn thing but got out the story alive... Didn't now that a scredriver could melt within a second 😀
"insanity wins again" the most truthful words ive ever heard
I'm surprised you didn't use a ssd Instead of a hard drive.
And that they bought an SMR HDD
Mostly just because I had this drive lying around. I've also heard that SSDs have some kind of issue with the Xbox that causes them to die faster. Something about the Xbox not supporting TRIM or something, I don't remember
@@BringusStudios I mean, macho nacho made a video upgrading his OG Xbox with an SSD, so maybe check it out if you want a bit of a sanity check.
@@dhoome1234ifytbf I doubt an OG Xbox can even take advantage of such speed of an SSD vs a CMR HDD (but they did use an SMR HDD which performs worse than CMR so there could actually be the limiting factor of the HDD)
@@JordanPlayz158 bringus has a gender, he is male
u shoulda banked the tsop.. coulda loaded 4 different flashes.. og included... also.. The difference with an 80-pin cable is that all the extra wires are tied to ground. This helps prevent wire-to-wire electromagnetic interference which in turn allows faster transfer speeds on the 80-pin cables.
Love the existential dread while opening teh box.
I might be remembering this wrong but if you plug the 360 breakaway part into an original Xbox break away cable it should just work without any adapter.
Dude this is so sick, and a really good tutorial ngl, could you do one like this for the 360 fat? I love to watch it!
Thank you for the zen moment. at 1:43
Loved your humor, i relate to you in unhuman levels
Recently soldered OpenXenium chip to mine and upped HDD to 500 GB SATA (with cheap IDE to SATA convertor from AE) with a spare lying around with a new 80 pin IDE cable. I have swapped the ends of IDE cable (ex: Slv port side to MB) as I had the same problem. But it works well.
I just saw your video and saw you were almost at a 100K. Thought I'd help get you there! Awesome videos, btw. Continue the grind!!
I still have mine and its running great 👍
as black hole delete past object identity so you can expoit it by extracing if possible and "recode it" to any thing we want for example you dump trash and you "exract" the matter and "code" it to gold or antimatter (*if possible*)
Rounded 80pin ide cables were what i used on my O.G Crystal xbox
1:46 he’s just like me bruh, I randomly just talking or chilling to myself or with others and then for some reason I gain the same awareness when you gain consciousness when you were like 4 or 5 years old and then this happens to me for like a solid minute
As someone who used the Asus IDE cable before, I can confirm it was a pain to install, lmao. But it was sweet using an SSD while I waited for another longer IDE cable to come.
the rust can be from condencation over the years, also, when working on a powersuply rubber glover are your friend:)
I love your commentary, its fun and informative. You made my day, thank you :)