Triple-T
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- čas přidán 14. 05. 2024
- #tyrellknifeworks
In today's Triple-T (tools, tips and talk) #157, I'll be making a major improvement to my home built twisting machine by adding a torque multiplier.
Torque Multiplier: amzn.to/46Tp5mF
Maritime Knife Supply: maritimeknifesupply.ca/
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Video/Audio Tools: www.amazon.com/shop/tyrellkni... - Jak na to + styl
![[Vowel]물고기는 물에서 살아야 해🐟🤣Fish have to live in the water #funny](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3G9MH063Cx4/mqdefault.jpg)
9:14 Cool, a spark from the scribe
Yeah, I thought I saw that too! Thanks for watching.
I am always amazed at just how far a bar can be twisted and not shear off
I totally agree! It’s a pretty cool process. Thanks for watching
That's an awesome result on those billets, I've honestly not seen a torque multiplier in gee, it'd have to be over 30 years and I'd figured they'd stopped making them. So there you go!
The alternative I was thinking for something like this was somewhat tangentially related to a rolling mill design, was that you can get geared electric motors between a third of a hp all the way up to about 5hp which are used to run electric gates, roller doors and conveyor belts. They are more expensive than the right-angle drill of course and you'd have to do up the tooling to whatever the output spline is. However, they're not that expensive comparatively for the very high torque outputs you can get on some of the 36 and 24rpm final drives.
Might be worth looking at for someone looking to build these or a rolling mill
Yes, you could certainly get a gear reducer but they are expensive. At that point you'd be better off going the pipe threader route. The right angle drill was $160 plus $80 for the torque multiplier and the rest was scrap. 😉. Thanks for watching, Kris
Oooh blasting!
With all this knowledge available for free, pretty soon there will rise an army of young, skilled blacksmiths!
Well let’s hope so! Thanks for watching.
Thats an interesting addition. Im going to have to do the same. I feel like it twist too fast but it seemed way smoother in this video. And twisted that 1 in bar like it was nothing.
I’m quite sure I could do 1.25” or bigger bars now too! Thanks for watching
Great work. That's an awesome result 😊😊
Thank you! 😊
Thanks so much for sharing! I just ordered the upgrade & can't wait to try it!
You won't be disappointed! Thanks for watching.
Good Morning Brother!❤
Morning! Thanks for watching, Matt!
@@TyrellKnifeworks absolutely! 🤘
Looks like that is going to work out perfectly for you. Congratulations on all of the shop upgrades. Thanks again for sharing Dennis!
Thanks for watching, Stephen! Every little improvement helps the processes. 😉
Amazing result, looks great.
Thank you! Cheers!
Great stuff!!!! Added to the build list lol!
It's an easy and impressive addition to the twister! Thanks for watching, Jeffrey!
@@TyrellKnifeworks no doubt. Appreciate you sharing what you learn. Helps for sure.
Very cool Denis! The final result was extremely therapeutic for my OCD! Thanks for sharing my brother! 😎👍🏻🔨🔥🔪
Thanks for watching, Bob!
Bro, you are getting close to out growing that space. 😉
Ha, no kidding! I’ve “optimized” so many times. 😉. Thanks for watching n
Nice… definitely would like to see a full review of the blasting cabinet, media, PSI etc…watch a lot of videos but yours is always pretty thorough. Looking to adding it to my shop in the future.
When I use it on a project I'll do a little review of it. Thanks for watching, Brett!
Very, Very nice!!!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
The multiplier uses planetary gears. We used them to get large bolts and lugnuts loose. Great video
Ah yes, that was the term I was looking for..”planetary gears”. Thanks for watching.
What a fantastic result, does not get much better than that
As you say, looks like all thread
It twisted like butter and was controllable so I'd call it a success! Thanks for watching, Dan.
I can see a spoiler for the Viking challenge build you could do. In all seriousness this is worth while improvement. I should build one of those when I start making swords and knives. Already started making some preliminary drawings and designs including for twist damascus.
I haven’t even figured out what I’m doing with those two twisted bars, but I’m sure they’ll get incorporated into other projects. 😜. Thanks for watching.
Beast mode activated
It was pretty gratifying seeing that 1" bar twist so easily! Thanks for watching, Greg!
whoa thats cool, it looked a bit of a faff to set up at first but good grief the result is fantastic,
thanks for sharing
It wasn't that bad to setup at all. Once you have it dialed in, it worked great! Thanks for watching.
That’s fantastic 🤟🤟🤟😊
Thanks for taking a look, Joe!
Maybe it was me... Maybe I just have a thing for metalworking.
The hounding is max level around here... But its so warm~
I'm not quite sure what your comment means, but thanks for watching.
Good tip to store for the day I need it, thanks! Another small upgrade to consider... instead of having the retaining spanner lever flip over when you reverse the drill, consider fixing it to one side or other so it does not move whatever twist you apply. One less flying piece of steel to avoid and no loss of function.
i was gonna suggest this too! seems like it could be pretty dangerous to have it slam over. you might be able to mill a slot directly underneath the chuck, in line with the rest of the drill?
It’s actually handy to have that so you can reposition the chuck easily to match the end of the workpiece and have it go in easily. I did think I’d what you’re suggesting but opted not to. Thanks for watching.
Awesome
Thanks for watching!
When you're doing the forging there are lots of large flakes that appear to be peeling off. Does this significantly reduce the mass of the billet? It seems like it would, but I can't quite tell how thin they are.
Any forging of hot steel will produce iron oxide, otherwise known as forge scale. It's produced by air hitting hot steel and forming a "shell" over it which peels off when it is manipulated. It's a waste produce and it does reduce the steel volume. The more heats, the more loss to scale. Sometimes this can be as much as 20%. On something like this, it's pretty negligible because it was only about 5 or 6 heats. Thanks for watching.
If you use the compressor a lot take a look at using a transmission/oil cooler between the pump and tank.
I’m confused what you’re talking about
I had a job installing compressed air and I learned that it should loop. Look into it. Hope this helps.
Hmm.. I'll look into it. Thanks for the heads up.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I was installing compressed air at Space-x so I figure my boss knew what he was talking about. This was when they were still in California.
On a different note, I bought some Damascus billets and I have some tools. Next we find out how much I have learned from channels like yours.
I built one of these and am using it. As is, it has trouble with a 1” this will be a great addition. Couple of questions though: First, did you get a 600, 800 or 1200 N.m. Model? Second, question have you had trouble with the arbor unscrewing from the drill motor when you run it in reverse? (I Have!) Apparently, that’s how it attaches.
My torque multiplier is the 600nm one. If you run the drill in reverse, you can’t do very thick material, probably 5/8” max so unless you’re maxing Turkish twist, do all your twisting in forward. I hope that helps.
I could make a joke about torque, don't get it twisted, but I need to make sure I don't get all turned around on myself.
...And I'm out! Don't forget to tip your blacksmiths!
haha... that's what she said. Thanks for watching!
Great additions to the shop, but jeez, it must be getting really crowded in there!
haha... it's been "optimized". 😉. Thanks for watching, Bryson.
Question, off topic. Do you have or are you going to make any videos on how to build folders.
I may start some folders next year. Thanks for watching, David.
I seen someone fabricate something like this to break loose a bunch of old rusted bolts on some 90 year old running gear restoring old armored vehicles.
Yeah, the torque multipliers are generally used for that purpose. Thanks for watching.
I am not sure where to ask this question, to get a good answer. please do not hesitate to reply if you have ideas. I live in Saskatchewan, Canada. I have a garage, but its full of car stuff, and not insulated. very little room for me to set up and work with my grinder, and I'm worried about getting steel dust on my room-mates car. I do not want to take the entire winter season off.... I'm in the middle of making two knives right now. I need some ideas on how to figure this out so I can work on my knives in the winter months. I can't do it outside, its gonna get -30*C for a few months. I have thought about building a small "lean-to" off the side of the garage, but I technically require a permit from the city, that I cannot afford... and it would be just barely enough shelter to work under. I am living very close to the wire right now(financially) and the knifemaking is keeping me happy which is why I need to keep it up through winter. any and all insight or ideas are welcome here. I just don't want winter to be all work and no knife builds. I have thought about setting up a little poly-plastic booth around my grinder, like they do when doing renos in a fully finished house. that might be the cheapest thing I can think of, but it might still take up more space than I have available.
P.S. almost everything I know about blade-smithing, came from watching "Tyrell Knifeworks" videos and following this channel and instructional videos! keep up the great work and awesome content!! I am still a newbie, working with the bare minimum of required tools and equipment. these beautiful knife designs and Damascus patterns are what permeate my dreams while I sleep!
Why don’t you get a small shed from Home Depot and build that beside your garage for knife making. You can run a small heater in there and you should be good. 👍. Thanks for watching!
How many gallons is the compressor?
It’s a 26 gallon compressor. Thanks for watching
👍🤝
🙏❤️
It wasn't me
Ha, well it was someone. 😉. Thanks for watching.