Quadzilla Banshee Quad Tear Down. Why Did It Break Down?
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- čas přidán 30. 10. 2021
- I tear into my Quadzilla Banshee quad and try to figure out why it broke down. #Quadzilla, #Banshee, #500cc,
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The following video features activities performed in controlled environments by knowledgeable persons. DO NOT attempt to duplicate, re-create, or perform the same or similar activities at home, as personal injury or property damage may result. 2vintage( Joe Weber, the persons shown in this video and ANY CONTRIBUTOR, ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY such injury or damage. ALL 2vintage( Joe Weber) CONTENT IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY.
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What should I do with this quad? Leave suggestions below!
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Thank you for all the support!
Trade me for my 400ex as is lol I swear I seen this for sale in Northern Wisconsin few months ago.
Make sure your radiator is it stoped up, and your on point with everything else.
@@beccakemp3354 yeah I'm from Wisconsin so you probably saw it up for sale at.
@@skylerbates7621 yes it was topped off.
Well kick ass solid channel man. Rebuild this beast and make it a monster.
I would bet the needle was the primary culprit. The side to side play in the big end on the rod is typical on the 500 from what I researched when doing mine, especially if it's a hot rods crank. Make sure you check your squish and compression before you decide on what fuel to run in it; it could have a shaved head or deck and be high compression no matter what piston is in there. Hope this helps, that's a sweet hybrid!
Whatsupp sabo✌🏼
This definitely wasn’t a SABO build lol I’m shocked you watch this.
@@mikewiley1007 Lmao I know right I am too😂
@@mikewiley1007 agreed 😂
Cool u tryin to help out another channel. I deff feel like it's lean, but it has transfer all around the piston. Usually lean makes em the wear out the exhaust side and the intake side will be fine still. So this is a weird case of lean.
It would be worth doing crank seals and kick starter seal when you rebuild it. Give a piece of mind there are no leaks that could cause a lean condition or idle issue. Doing good Joe keep it up 👍
He's not going to do any of that... He will do the minimum to get it running and that's it... We will never see it again.. Just like everything else get it running and that's it.. These guys don't even go out riding once in a while..
you can pressure test the crank case to prove that out, without tearing into bottom end.
@@jodyhakamaki5602 he'll flip it and make some long coin and force someone else to rebuild it properly
Found your channel about a month ago and I have to say, very impressed. Almost making me want to pick the camera up again after about 10 years or so. One thing I have found over the years.... never, ever, take someone else's word for work that was done. On a machine like this one, tearing it down first to find out, is the best way to go. These things are so rare that finding cases/motors are difficult. So sad that it went south... so bummed!
Can't wait to see this build completed, it's gonna be a beast! I always check out the quad before I run it, specially buying it used I also always drain the gas an put new gas in, never know what is in it..
So glad to have an update! Not completely terrible then, with a new bore and piston that motor will certainly live again, also some good suggestions and points made in the comments about possible causes and things to pay close attention to once rebuilt. Gonna be challenging dialing in that ported motor but I believe you will rebuild it properly and make sure everything is within spec so it can't blow up again. Not many of these rare beasts left, don't give up on this one.
I just started watching your channel not to long ago. Always learn something new when someone tears into an engine. I thought there would be way more damage to the engine when it locked up like that. Looking forward to seeing the rebuild. Watching from Sudbury Ontario, Canada.
That exactly what my CR500 looked like. Only the rod bearing came apart and took my rings out. Well worth rebuilding though. Looking forward to watching.👍😁🇺🇸
Joe , been watching some of your videos and enjoying them .. I have been racing since 1977 and still going strong 💪 my thoughts are the tuner that performed the tuning did so to match the ambient temp outside and to his pre mix ratio as well . Lots of people tend to forget these are highly tuned engines and require maintenance, I rejet my racebikes ( Husqvarna, cagiva, Yamaha's, Can-Am) every 5 to ten degrees temp change. These are race engines and designed to be riden hard, even a change in your pre mix ratio will change how it runs say going from 50:1 to 40:1 will cause engine to run leaner , love to help you more if I can , I did friend request you on fb the other day !!!
I love the fact you actually know that a richer fuel oil ratio creates a leaner air fuel ratio. I've been a Yamaha tech since 89 and have ridden raced and owned literally hundreds of 2 strokes, all of them needed tuned. Properly!!!
Just fix her up and keep her , it’s a amazing machine, keep all of your bikes, in a few years...... great content as usual 👍🍀🏴🙏
Great Channel just found it yesterday been binging your vids ever since I love you bringing back the older bikes I grew up on
Dude that's what actually blew up my RM ! The needle was at the top of the needle being to lean ! Previous owner had leaned it out on the top of the needle. I rebuilt it without checking that and I blew it up again ! Did a complet engine rebuild and went super rich on the needle and my RM was working like a dream feeding on enough oil going 32:1 !
wow... good luck on your english exam tomorrow
@@TheDanolson232 I'm french Canadian Honey... Now go enjoy your shitty weed and piss hot beer
@@doobyboy21 love this reply lolol
@@dawson1373 not my style to be a prick on CZcams but sometimes you just gotta go for it... 🙄
Pass the popcorn......
Mike Sabo just did a rebuild video for a 1987-90 LT500r motor, hope you get this beast running prefect :)
Ha I figured someone would let him know. 👍 Mike does a pretty good job with his builds
Broke down because of your driving. Wanted to pull my hair out when you were driving it. Reving it out like that in first gear with no load is killer. Spark plug is perfect. I like your videos but man your driving is painful lol
That little 10 min putt would not cause a total top end failure, the revs were a little high for the 500 but if machine was tuned correctly I do believe that would not be the main cause of heat in top end . Just my 2 cents ……. Good luck bud !
What would you suggest about the driving? It was revved too high? How many times? He didn't drive in first gear only.
It looks like the guys ported the head, but did not increase the jet sizes which is a big fail. Also that thing maybe seized before too, that's why the guy sold it.
I've seen cylinders I swore was scratched but cleaned up with some muriatic acid on a q tip. I guess yours is beyond that sadly. Really enjoy the honesty of your videos.
Thanks for showing us the wrenching and working on such a beautiful beast of a machine. 💪
Keep up the content brotha man. Every video is a good watch!
I've been riding 2 strokes since 1978. Even at age 10 I was rebuilding my own bikes. I can tell you that my 85, 86 cr500 had near zero side play on the con rod. That thing is wasted... Tear it apart, replace the crank and rod and mains. Get new seals for everything, and get rid if that hacked (ported) cylinder. Save yourself the headache... Get stock, or equivalent parts and you'll have a reliable engine that you can spend time riding instaed of chasing tuning nightmares, and engine failure. Did I mention, that rod??? Toss that crap.
Oh... I forgot. Learn how to break in, and subsequently ride a big boy bike like that. If you don't, you'll be doing this video all over again. And for eff's sake... wear some goddamned riding gear before you eat shit, and get hospitalized.
@@brogadishu how do you break in your two strokes? I’m interested to hear your way
You can definitely tell you're not looking at a 250cc piston when you see the slug in that big ol' open class 500cc engine. That piston is huge!
Looks like most of the damage happened on the intake side of the cylinder which means it was definitely lean for whatever reason, also looked like a cast piston. Crappy deal Joe I'm sorry. I'm sure you'll build it back better than it was. Might be a good idea to do crank seals and see if that much play on the rod is normal.
Garage looks great! Nice and bright. Good job.
Everytime you kick that engine over your taking the chance of hurting that cylinder even more, once that thing locked up leave it alone, tear it down find the problem
Great work I really like how you incorporate the comments.
Can't wait for the rebuild, first start, first gear wheelies and break in time reving it to the moon .
😂😂😂
He's a lemon
It’s a 2 stroke you want to ride it at all Rpms normally to seat in the rings properly. A 4 stroke is a different story but 2 strokes you start it up, let it get up to operating temp and ride as normal.
That side to side play is normal for the 500r. Rod is centered and trued in place by the thrust washers on the piston. Make sure you run billet thrust washers with the new piston. Rm250 thrust washers are also a good compromise and an upgrade from stock. You should be running at least 100 octane or higher with porting on these 500’s. They also notorious for cracking the cylinder around the intake side mounting holes, increasing the thickness of the will take care of this. Anymore questions hit me up.
Love the vids been waitin for this awesome content
Been waiting for this video so glad i can watch it
We run 16:1 or 20:1 oil ratio in our vintage racing 2 stroke karts. You also need to add more oil for lubrication along with richening the mixture. Gordon
A richer oil ratio will lean out the air fuel.
You're on the right track it was a combination of all those things the fuel line pilot and the Needle
I don't know the first thing about those 500s, but I would definitely check into the rod side play, that looks excessive to me. I had an indy 650 triple, and the crank started separating at the 3rd cylinder. It ended up shattering my piston, and trashing the engine pretty bad. The side play in that rod wasn't even as much as you have there.
Was waiting for this vid to drop
Defo a keeper joe fix it up its a weapon mate for sure you will cure all the problems it has I'm certain great content mate keep on keeping on 👍👌🔧🔧🔧🏍🏍
I don't know a whole lot about 2 strokes, but I do love me some vintage race bikes. Keep that beautiful girl and fix it right, look forward to future video's.
Every used bike is such a gamble as to how f’d up it is from other peoples work. Just rebuilt the top end on a little ttr90 for my kid, paid full market value thinking it was running poor due to bad carb, turned out to be a sheared woodruff key on the crank. Only figured that out after I tried to reset the timing and horribly bent the intake valve. Flywheel was basically welded to the crank.
Ah that sucks man. I know the feeling.
You got screwed on that ATV Joe
Love watching your videos dude 👍🏻
Love your videos keep up the great work you do!!
I can't believe a under size pilot jet would result in a lean mixture up high. I would check piston to cylinder clearance, coolant air lock and over advanced ignition. I feel your pain!
It could actually because , all the fuel is initially running through the idle circuit and if the idle is to small , the mid range and high range won’t get enough fuel
@@andrewcrandall2825 I doubt it would run anymore that just off idle before stalling.
Best channel ever brother keep it up
Honestly between the small idle jetting, the needle clip position AND the fuel line “preheating” your gas for ya…..that poor engine had the odds against it from the get-go. Can’t wait to see you get it put together properly….cuz she’s gonna be a ripper!
Hellll yeahhh !!
Had an 87 quadzilla that was bored over quite a bit. I ended up having to run more piston clearance than the book calls for. The oversize pistons where expanding more and so I ran more clearance and let it warm up a bit longer. Ran for years after I did that.
Make sure the fuel tank is venting and feeding the carb correctly. If that was the feed line that was burnt, its inner diameter may have been compromised causing a lean issue. Needle may have helped but you weren't on the pilot at wide open throttle😉
Get a haynes maual or other repair manual and you should know all the specs such as crank play, base jetting, torque specs.
You pretty good working on these motors it's going to fly when you get done with it,nice banshee
A shop wouldn't be using zip ties to hold fuel lines on carb for one and dam sure wouldn't run a fuel line next to exhaust pipe like that I think buddy knew this thing was fixing to blow and just did what he had to to sell it cleaned it up made it look nice to get some of his money back
The engine was detonating quite badly which can be caused by a few things. Check head cc, squish and fuel tap flow as well as jetting. As its been ported i would put it on the dyno after the rebuild and see what the exhaust gasses say. Check to see if it runs lean as you roll off the throttle as well. Air leaks are the other issue it could have. Good luck👍
Where do you see evidence of detonation?
@@jasonmushmansixtyfive You can hear it when it was running.
There would have been signs of detonation on piston crown and combustion chamber. Go pro mics suck!
Not necessarily in such a short run. Even though GoPro mics are not brilliant, I could hear it pinking.
You were revving it like a 125 !
With something that unique and rare bro I would definitely do a complete top and bottom rebuild every seal every o-ring just so you cross all your t's and Dot all your eyes
How about the situation with the coolant?. When you took that hose off no coolant appeared to be getting to the cylinder head.
You definitely got to save this engine they don't build them like that anymore the Big Bore Two Strokes are gone forever fix her! Great video
love this machine man
This is great I think you’ll have er back to operational in no time. 40:1 good idea just to avoid any more headache. Even if she smokes ;)
Tear that motor apart.. replace the crank seals and EVERY seal/Oring in the power valve area. There are lots of places to leak there. use a forged Weisco piston and let it warm up before you get on it. For sure check compression to see if you need race gas. Get that jetting dialed in.
This is the most under rated channel grate stuff man
great attitude level headed the biggest cuss word was YIKES the damage was meant to be so you could make it your own in your collection maybe someone could quietly help ya out with a nice workbench without the need for it to be said like a endorsement you work hard and we look forward to the next video i would like to invest in someone's future ex my son but i'm hard pressed to buy a loaf of bread keep up the positive progress
it look like the engine builder did not gap the rings properly within spec when assembling the top end causing the ring ends to contact and tighten up when it got hot. Also the 2 spots in the cylinder that are gouged up look like the could correspond with the ring end gaps, if so that is another hint that it could have been a ring issue. Did you mix the gas yourself? or did you just trust that it was done properly by previous person?
Lean conditions do the crank seals and a good piston and shell be fine once you go thru sum different jetting
I have never seen that much side-to-side play in a connecting rod
Yeah me too
Me too. Way too much.
Was the water pump moving coolant that may have caused the overheating problem one thing to put on your check list.
Yes that side to side is normal. Brand new bottom in my LT and has that. New seals and bearing and brand new top end. It aligns its self once top end is in
They actually had thrust washers on the big and little ends.
PN for the crank pin:
WASHER Part# 09160-24022
PN for wrist pin:
WASHER Part# 09169-18005
Looks like that small bolt on the head is a coolant air bleed hole. The coolant could have not been all the way full if you didn’t bleed the air from the head after you worked on the water pump.
Pretty fishy it was never run after being rebuilt. Someone knew something and just wanted to get their money back out of it.
You should take a look at the water pump and make sure the impeller is working properly
Yes I did look at it when I made the first video on this quad. The water pump was spinning when I kicked the engine over.
I spoke to an old timer that used to work on big 2 stroke diesel engines . and he said that you should definitely check the ring side clearance in the grooves, and the ring end gap. and that if the fuel line was touching the exhaust pipe it could cause engine seizure because it would boil dry and not properly lubricate , and also run lean. so run a longer fuel line and keep it far from anything hot. good luck kid .
Seems like the engine was quite newly rebuilt and you gave it the big one from the off. Maybe take it a bit easier when you fix it bud.
Love your videos bud
As i mentioned previously you sat in a low gear for far too long coasting around at high rpm which starved the piston of 2 t lubrication the piston jammed in the cylinder classic heat seizure. the equivalent of coasting down hill using the engine to brake. you just dont do it on a 2 stroke> the crank has the thrust washers missing either side of the con rod too which is an upgrade for the sloppy con rod
Yeah im sure a few things caused it to become lean. Are you sure the lt500s had thrust washers at the bottom by the crank?
Yeh I thought should have thrust washers in the big end. Would stop that float you have
do what you always do joe fix it and have fun on it correctly setup
in same project put a Bigger Cooller And Bigger Tubes So its Flow Cooling Much Faster to Keep It Cool,and always check jets in carp before you ride so then you know at you can make it run safety.
I would definitely be checking the end float on that big end and compare it with factory specs. You normally measure it in thousandths of an inch, yours appears to be somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 inch. Maybe that is normal on this engine but I've never seen anything even close to this before. With that amount of play it's just begging to try to push the piston up the cylinder sideways.
Depending on who rebuilt it. If they ever did the crank they might have have balanced It correctly so its coming apart from each other. I would definitely check the manual and see the specs on rod play cuz that doesnt look safe
Porting will make a big difference to the jetting, a lot more air flow through the motor. As to how bigger you go on jets is trail and error,better off far to big and work smaller.
When you get the cylinder back, knife edge the ports
What is porting
@@magnumllama400 Altering the shape and size on the inlet ports, transfer ports and the same on the exhaust, basically enlarging the ports, which can allow the engine to flow more fuel/air
done properly it can increase horsepower a lot, but the trade off is wear on the piston and rings and a very peaky engine with a narrow powerband.
No valves in this engine as it's a 2 stroke, the ports are in the block.
@@daveswarbrick5576 got you
It wasnt getting enough fuel to keep that piston cool. Thats a shame but it will come back better than it was. I have faith.
High compression pistons need race gas. The high octane helps from detonation and extreme hot spots in the cylinder. Low octane fuel in a high compression engine can burn a hole in a piston. Or melt the ring lands
Please get you a temp gauge radiator cap it will let you no when you are getting to hot and by have the reading you can till if is running to lean of rich
thermal expansion on the port bridges caused the damage maybe because it’s was too lean. Bridge relief wouldn’t hurt when rebuilding this will help eliminate this happening again.
If it was from gas vaporizing it would have vapor locked and died and acted as if it was overheated and wouldnt start. Did both sides of the piston have wear in the same direction as the rod had play?
It looks like it past some junk through the cylinder.
Definitely the needle clip position and the float level contributed to the seize. Perhaps the bore was too tight as well. Don't waste too much time on the fuel boiling or the pinched vent hose.
Suzuki 2-strokes hang the connecting rod centered in the piston itself, the side play is normal. Noticed this years ago with an RM370 engine a friend was working on, same deal.
I'd put at least one size larger pilot jet in it, say, a #52 or #55 if that doesn't work.
They actually had thrust washers on the big and little ends.
PN for the crank pin:
WASHER Part# 09160-24022
PN for wrist pin:
WASHER Part# 09169-18005
Can you check the gap on that original is original piston and rings in the cylinder make sure it had room for the rings to expand They might not have enough gap clearance for the rings to expand Even though they didn't shatter
That's a good idea! I will do this and update you with my findings.
Id use some muratic acid on the cylinder to get the aluminum off the walls, trust me if works fast and does a good job, but if the cylinder has too big of a gouge in it then yeah id go with the next size piston if can.
My guess would be you drove the piss out of it.too early for that on a rebuild.
Great video, I could only imagine buying a bike and it only running for 1 ride, don’t trust these shops at all, this is a perfect example
also when you get a new bike thats been sitting you need to remix the 2 t oil as some pre mix separates and sits at the top of the fuel hence why old skull bikers always shake the tank to mix the fuel back up again, without meaning to sound condescending its a rookie 2T mistake
Spot on 👍. I always shake around the bike if its been sitting just for the reasons you mentioned.
I've seen Joe here do some interesting stuff but he does usually slosh the premix.
@Quirin M. How do you know the previous owner used new synthetic 😜..
@@coloradodirtbike5930 exactly! It really doesn’t take much effort once you’re on the bike to slosh the fuel in the tank around
Is the water pump working? It got real hot. Maybe it was not broken in? It will be even bigger than a 500 after you bore it out what a monster it will be. Some times you have to put a certain amount of hours on engines before you open the throttle up. Was there 2 stroke oil in the gasoline? Does it have 2 stroke oil pump? If so was it working.
Running a 2 stroke in colder weather and the leanest position on needle will do er
Your gonna hack it back together and it will blow up again can't wait to see the video
Have you done a leak down test. You could have a leak either at the main seals or at a base gasket.
was any coolent getting to the cylinder? it looked quite dry when you removed the cylinder head,causing it to overheat.
For sure...was violent checked?
That 110 probably got the best of it. Thats high octane for it to be mostly stock and the gas isn't going to boil. Before it boils itll catch fire. Plus when riding the gas doesn't sit in one spot for a long period of time for it to get that hot because the carb keeps the flow moving . It may be slow but it constantly moves so you can't boil gas. Itll catch fire before it gets to that point.
usually if you can feel a small mark on the cylinder its gonna take a 1 mm rebore minimum as it would be .5 off overall diameter of the cylinder which is not going to get rid of a gouge that you can feel with your nail. if its been overboard twice you are going to need it to be 4th oversize if 87.5 is equal to 1st oversize
Yeah do you think ill have enough material to bore it that big?
If not you can get it re sleeved
I rebuilt my rm 125 abunch of years ago and I sent my cylinder out to get it rechromed not resleeve and everything worked perfectly until I sold it 4yrs later.
@@2vintage obviously your micrometer is going to tell you that. if it has an oversize piston in it already it may have the .5 mm rebore you need but if its on 1mm oversize already it will need a re sleeve or replating maybe ?? i have had 125s replated but i dont know what the limits are you would need to speak to the people that do it. probably plenty of folk over there that do it
Too much oil will cause a lean fuel condition! Look at it like this...You have a main jet of a fixed size that flows, for sake of argument, 1 liter/per hour. Take your 1 liter of fuel and dilute it with oil at a ratio of 50-1. Now you have 1/50th less fuel flowing through the jet at the same 1 liter/per hour rate. This is a leaner mixture. The more oil you mix in, the less fuel is able to get in the engine without adjusting jet size. It's quite easy to lean seize an engine with a rich oil mixture, especially when people adjust oil ratios thinking more oil makes it richer. More or less fuel is what makes a 2 stroke richer or leaner. The oil is nothing more than a lubricator.
Thanks I've have learned something new today! Thank you Rich!
Being that the cylinder is an iron sleeve you could send it and a .030 over piston to a machine shop and have it bored.
Is the radiator providing an adequate amount of cooling with the large engine? it looked small.
Yeah I also thought the same thing. I think it's a banshee radiator. I feel like it should have the quadzilla radiator since it is running the quadzilla engine.
@@2vintage my thoughts exactly when it blew up. Not enough airflow.
@@2vintage prob jetting and needle clip but if your worried install a cheep electric fan kit
advanced sleeve they work wonders
Did a good job powder coating that motor.. very nice!
That side to side play is to much but definitely rebuild it you will never get your money back burnt up like it is then you know shes perfect and just keep it if possible
I would run a bit more than 40:1 oil mix in a tuned engine. 40:1 would be more for street use. That needle setting looks very lean, don't no what the stock setting is I'm guessing it's not that. The pilot jet has hardly any effect at WOT even though it maybe a bit small. If the cylinder has been ported you would expect the head to have been modified as well. If the exhaust port height has been raised you need to mod the head as well as the exhaust port closes later than stock.
It looked, to me, like the rings got caught on the edges of the ports. Could whomever ported the cylinder neglect to clean up the edges?
Maybe piston ring end gap was off or the piston was a shade too big
Shes ported!! Nice.