GET FASTER NOW! - How to Set Up Sim Racing Pedals THE RIGHT WAY
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- čas přidán 16. 05. 2024
- It's come to my attention recently just how many people get this wrong! So today we're taking it back to basics and showing you how to correctly set up your Load Cell or Hydraulic Sim Racing Pedals (regardless of the brand) to get the most out of them when it comes to fast and consistent lap times and race pace!
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TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - Intro & First Steps
2:08 - Throttle
5:40 - Clutch
8:12 - Brake
14:23 - Conclusion
#pedals #simracing #guide - Hry
Ive asked so many youtubers to do a tutorial on this and Will always knows how to answer the question to where it makes sense. Ive even asked my sim pedal brand and they couldnt have answered better than Will. I appreciate your content so much, what a blessing to the sim racing community
Ive always smashed the pedal to figure out my max calibration, so this explains my inconsistent braking
Wish you dropped this a few weeks ago! I finally upgraded to a solid rig and a loadcell brake and it took me quite a while / needed a bit of research to nail it. But once I had this dialled in like you’ve perfectly articulated here i am already faster and more consistent than before.. game changer!
Keep up the good work legends!
Best video I have seen in ages. I have been desperate to have this sort of information for so long. I run a non linier brake and will now apply the percentage shown and make myself relearn. Thank you so much you are awesome.
Great guide Will, thanks! One thing to note regarding curves/profiles is that different sims usually already have different pressure profiles for diffetent inputs for a specific car, which is true in real life cars as well. I believe most sims assume a linear pedal travel in order for an in-sim profile/curve to work as intended. Adjustment is useful ofc when you think the sim got it wrong.
wow. timing is everything in life. got back into driving about 2 weeks ago. i knew my pedal setting needed a tweak. then this pops up. magic.
I’ve got my first wheel and pedals on the way and I’m happy to have watched this to get them tuned and calibrated the right way
Thank you for doing so much for the racing sim community!
Just recently got the Heusinkveld Ultimate + pedals, first set of high end pedals for me after years. This'll be perfect!
Thank you, excited to try this! Especially the clutch map, cant believe i never thought of this!
Finally this topic is described well. I've already did some unsuccessful research how to correctly set up especially brake pedal, and I find my preference is to use progressive brake curve since I've a foldable cockpit.
Such videos are the reason why I am subscribed - thanks man!
I had my brake pedal set pretty much the same but the acceleration pedal inputs make sense now. Will defo try that. Thanks so much 🤝🏻🍻🏁
Great video. As an ex office chair Simracer I must say that I've already calibrated my pedal this way, simply because the office chair kinda forces you to do so, since it is not very stable, so ram the brakes is not a good thing to do. Now I have a proper rig, but the calibration philosophy remained.
Awesome video that is spot on. Took deliver of some the Asetek InVicta pedals and clutch yesterday. Upgrade from Fanatec v3’s..
Installed them today and followed your video. You’re quite correct about the change in feel but the consistency allowing for muscle memory development.
Night and day from prior set!
Many thanks!
My Asetek La Prima pedal set effortlessly runs circles around both Fanatec & Moza's top-of-the-line pedals (and the La Prima pedals are the lowest priced amongst the 3 options Asetek currently has available on the market today.
For all you Moza/Fanatec folks out there thinking you have an awesome set of pedals - I highly recommend you try any of the three offerings Asetek currently has available. As a matter of fact, do yourself a favor & just order a set direct from Asetek Sim Sports right now. 🤠
Congrats on your new pedal set, Daniel! Welcome to the Asetek family.
Thank you Will for doing this video. I've been out of the sim racing game for over a year. Throat Cancer, Not driving for over a year of course means all my hardware is out dated. This video has helped me get my V3 pedals at least back in line. Having them setup wrong has only meant I'm casing my tail. The Cancer is gone and I've finely physically able to start racing again. You're still the best, Thank you, your #1 USA fan. Wheatjames.
Very useful video! I have my Invictas set up the exact same way, and it works well for me have noticed improvements in braking, especially.
Great content Will, much appreciated. 🏁
Great info Will a lot of drivers will appreciate this ....
Thank you soo much
I really needed this information for my setup
I've always worked with deadzones and I do tend to rest my feet on the pedals. And I've done what you did with the brake and it works perfectly for me. Thanks!
Very useful, cheers mate!
Thanks Will! Made me go check the settings of my CSL pedals and they weren't to far off the mark. My CSL DD wheel base I hadn't looked at since I first started using it and the setup was nothing short of diabolical........
Linear for me aside from clutch. I have a clearly defined bite point exactly how you showed. Great vid Will 😊
ordered some sprint pedals last night, the is perfect timing. WIll be going from desk mounted g29 to those in a rig.
Really informative. Thank you.
I have 2 day holiday from work this weekend, this video is exactly what I needed to enjoy sim racing all day, cheers! 🙌❤️
That’s great! It awesome when you get a good chunk of free time to sit in the rig. Life is too busy! 😂 Have fun 😊.
Will great content as always, I don’t know who wouldn’t check to calibrate their pedal? > 😂 me racing for years wondering why I’m not that little bit faster. It’s a honour mate, keep up the good work.
I had a set of Fanatec CSL pedals and last year I replaced them with a set of Heusinkvelds.
First thing I did was set them up to feel exactly like my Fanatecs. I spent hundreds of dollars on them for nothing, but at least they’re fancy 😅
Although, to be fair the He pedals have massively more adjustable settings than Fanatec gives you. I was able to fine tune my clutch bite and brake feel to a high degree. And surprisingly, the stiffer spring in the throttle makes it easier to navigate pit lane speed limits in cars without a limiter, like stock cars and the new Formula Ford in iRacing.
I have just picked up the Thrustmaster T-LCM Pedals and will be doing the recelibration to set this up. Thanks for the tips on pedal set up. Looking forward to better lap times.
Next step is replacing the wheel stand with a proper rig. Wish me luck getting it passed by the Minister for War and Finance.
Shot Will! Good video. Going to use your advice on my Moza SRP pedals.
I have heusinkveld sprints and use a non-linear curve for the brake. It has a preset called "slow start" which is great. When starting to press the pedal and there is no real resistance in the pedal I don't brake much, but as soon as the resistance in the pedal starts, the brake starts applying more force.
Ditto, I run the same sort of non-linear braking profile as well for my Asetek La Prima pedals. (In Racehub, it's the default 2nd/middle option of Asetek's built-in braking profiles).
For me personally, I tend to over brake on turns where only a dab of pressure is necessary due to the resistance being low as the brake is still in the early stage of its pedal stroke. So, by selecting the profile I mentioned above, I don't over brake when my brake pedal is in it's lower resistance phase (using the same software that you see here in Will's video... again, for frame of reference I am referring to the middle profile curve in the braking section, the one just to the right of Will's favorite profile which is the default linear curve).
I found mounting my asetek forte underneath the pedal plate track racer provide was a game changer for the brake pedal, the standard heel rest on the pedals means its super hard to use your leg instead of just the ankle. Without the raised bit on the forte’s my heel glides as i brake correctly
Its interesting, I run way higher brakepressure with 85bar (invicta pedals). I love the "dynamic range" it gives me. Especially in high downforce cars were in corners with a short straight before the peak brake force is only like 50%. Beeing able to trailbrake at low pressures is just amazing.
Thanks Will, This video was super importante to us (new drivers) have some help to understand the configurations and the basics. You know I have Fanatec ambient and like the pedals (club sport V3) that you give a great help, the wheel (clubsport V2.5X) is another headache to configure. May be a basic video like this is an idea because all the wheel's are different and is impossible to exemple. But something like the end stops of the Direct drive motor and the effects that we can have on the wheel by the direct drive, things like that. I think you understand the idea. Thanks a lot Will another excellent video. 🙏🙇♂
This video should help - czcams.com/video/bO6g_ViBfOE/video.html
Very interesting video and hope this works with the Thrustmaster T-LCM Pedal set but can't find a review on this channel.
Great tips mate, deadzones are something people don't think about. Also good to keep an eye on the brake deadzone every once a while for brake pedal resters like us 🤣
Great video as always. Do you have similar for someone running clubsport v3’s without a fanatec wheel base?
Love that you're running Asetek's Invicta pedal set Will! 🤠
FYI - For all you Fanatec & Moza folks out there thinking you have the bee's knee's set of sim racing pedals - I highly recommend you go try any of the three offerings Asetek currently has available. You'll thank yourself for doing so immediately after.
This is what I've explained so so many guys. Now, iRacing specifically has some funky ABS implementation which is why you just barely get into it to be fast. Go into ACC and guys murder the ABS at 100% to be quick. But my Invictas and the "hard stop" at 80% feels like a cheat code in a GT3 in iRacing. You can still get to 100% for heavier zones and suspension compression zones, but our calibration is basically identical. Just a VERY different bar value to achieve it lol
CSL pedal user, I have the load cell; but the stock product only have super stiff elastomers so there’s no progressive or stepping force, it feels like hiring a brick.
I change those elastomers for a spring and hard rubber to have that tactile point. And I set it up to be at 80% brake force using my load cell sensibility.
If I’m in a car that locks wheels easily the I increase the load cell sensibility si the tackle point became 70, or 60% force. So I’ll always por the same force trough my pedal and in the simulator the brake pressure increase or decrease depending in the LC sensibility
Great video! I wonder wich elastomer do you use on Invicta pedal brake? I use the default one and it seems to have less travel than yours.
Well... I set my Invicta brake to about 60% at the end of the soft stage and the rest goes to the hard stage with 100% at about 60 bars brake pressure. This way the brake is usable for me both on ACC and iRacing without having to fiddle around. On iRacing I feel properly when the hard stage is reached and feel quite good how much I can brake until possible lockup, whereas in ACC when you literally have to stomp on the brake I can feel when the trailbraking is starting to be effective as a feedback when releasing. And this way I can brake in ACC in fast long corners almost the same way as on iRacing.
I love this thing 👍
Hi, tnx for your video, One question for a expert please:)
Does the alone position of the pedal's podium make any difference, for example the back of my "fanatic" pedals is up from the floor for 30% like that I personally have better contact with them.
Fantastic, thank you!
Nice information. Hopefully you can get a set of Simgrade VX-Pro Pedals for review.
I just got new VRS pedals (the review here was a big reason why), they arrived today, now this video comes out, nice timing.
Are they good. I'm debating between VRS, Asetek, or Sprints.
Thinking the VRS's are better than the Sprints from the reviews I've watched, so it's VRS or Asetek.
@@F1NATIK I’m finding them amazing, coming from modded Thrustmaster TLCM and the VRS are like a dream. I expected to have a steep learning curve but honestly I felt comfortable with them almost instantly and I just put the red spring straight in as well.
@waterboxer Yea thinking I'll go with the VRS, should be an upgrade from the V3s, hopefully. and they're a lot cheaper than the Asetek's.
@Kyle Hewlett I actually tried the Invicta pedals as well. I really liked them but I can get the vrs set up in a very similar way. Also you can kind of set the VRS up in numerous ways, the Invicta seem much more of a one trick pony.
Last week i turned to a linear brake curve and i needed to relearn how to brake becuase i used to use a non linear brake curve.
The positive thing is that now i can module better the brakes so my Trail braking is more stable and faster than my non linear configuration.
I figured the dead zone adjustment on my own. I was using a car on Gt7 that cut the throttle off as soon as you touched the brakes. It actually took me a second to figure out that I was resting my foot on the brakes and if I’m doing it then I’m likely doing it most times.
Yeah. Upgrading my Fanatec pedals is next on my list.
I came here expecting to learn how my brake pedal is setup wrong and how I'm losing time not always braking to 100% despite driving a car with ABS, but it turns out I had my brake setup exactly how you said and I'm not necessarily losing time by only braking around 80% most the time... TIL!
btw I did get to fix my throttle pedal top deadzone with your advice :)
Great video! I think it would be nice to have a counterpart that explains how to adjust the brake pressure in the game to make best out of your ability to hover the brake pedal near the 80% mark at will.
@@jeffreybankers3988 The idea for not going to 100% with ABS in real world (and good enough simulators, too) is that ABS works by repeatedly releasing the brake pressure but the brake pressure is then restored to match the pedal position. As a result, if you apply 100% braking with ABS, the tyres lose traction with each pulse of the ABS system (because the brake pressure is too high between the pulses).
For optimal brake performance, you want to go as fast as possible to the ABS limit and then hover as close as possible the limit where ABS doesn't need to pulse the brakes. However, you should prefer to have slightly too high brake pressure than too little for optimal performance because rubber is not technically a solid and will have the maximum brake performance while sliding ever so slightly. Therefore, you should have some ABS action for every braking for max performance.
I guess that in theory it would be possible to create an ABS system that actually reduces brake pressure and ignores your pedal position but real world systems respect your pedal position as far as I know.
The 80% idea seems to be that you adjust the brake pressure (in game) to always match the friction limit near the same pedal position. That way you apply similar technique for every car which makes it more repeatable.
Yep you’re spot on. The 80% is pretty much an arbitrary number that just happens to be about right for most cars. When you’re actually driving you’ll get a feel for exactly how much pressure you can apply before locking up and this of course varies depending on speed, turn in angle, etc. If you just mash the pedal to 100% you’ll be bouncing off ABS as you said. I’m still not convinced this is the best way to do it in ACC although a lot of people seem to be convinced.
Can you do a vid swapping the gas and clutch on the clubsport v3’s for the Trakracer inverted kit
Have you reviewed the simagic p2000 pedals? I looked through your videos I didn’t see it in there. Wanted to know your thoughts on them, been considering upgrading to those from my csl elite v1
Hi Will
Do you have anything for the thristmaster tlcm calibration? Or any mod recommendations?
Could you make a video about the physical setup of pedals? I mean how you position them etc. I own the invictas as well, and I love them. But I can't get them mounted without either straining my gas or break foot. I have them tilted forward like you, which helps a bit. But I still can't race them for a prolonged time.
I'd like to see this too. My left foot becomes uncomfortable hovering over the break while right foot is extended on the accelerator. I may try moving the break pedal a tiny bit further away, but would love advice.
I’ve also got the invicta pedals. I tried your settings and found it just took too much fine braking ability out of it at the cost of a bit less force.
But maybe as you say it just takes some getting used to. At any rate it’s nice to see different perspectives. Keep yo the good work
What elastomer do you use in your brake to achieve second stage in under 38bars? I have the invicta pedals to and use the black elastomer and has to run a lot more bar to achieve second stage.
Lots of great tips in here, thanks for the video! Would also love to see a similar video about how to set up the mechanical aspects of pedals for ergonomics and performance (obviously a lot of this is personal preference). I know "how" to adjust everything on the VRS pedals that I just bought, but would love a quality run through like this on the "why" to change certain things and what is best, from Boosted Media or other high quality channel.
I thought that's what this video would be about. It's sad and very surprising to me that calibrating your equipment is something Sim racers apparently can't do.
I rub the Heuski Sprints. Should I be running these at their maximum of 64KG, Will? From memory I'm running them at around 50KG at the moment. Could this be costing me time?
How long did iit take you to learn to left foot brake? And is it a must?
Which Elastomer are you using in the invicta pedals? The soft one?
I ran everything default for a while until I saw dori_n had posted what he used (I have the same base and pedals as he does) and I decided to give his settings a go, I got a massive chunk of time within an hour, well worth tweaking things for sure.
I have a question about one thing. After Calibrating your pedals, does the pedal maps needs to be enabled or it’s a choice between either you calibrate it or use pedal maps. I just got the pedals and wasn’t sure about this.
did you ever try the venym atrax pedals set ? If yes, what did yoiu think of it ?
Coming into this late but should rhese dead zones be in place before your calibrate in iracing or should they be off for ingame calibration and then turned back on?
Braking is where the time lies for sure. I have sprints but was faster with G27 load cell modded pedal because I was so comfortable with it. Never reached the same lap times with the sprints and it’s been years with them 😂
seeing the 911 its always a pleasure
Thanks for the advice, which elastomer are you using for calibration?
Doesn’t matter. Just use whatever you feel gives you the best control
Dose CSL elite V2 have this type of capability. I’m getting into sim racing and elite V2 in my budget. Thanks
I use a non-linear input curve on my steering input.
Hi Will, I see that you are not hitting the end stop for the brake pedal. This means that the hydraulic phase of the pedals are not utilised since its still compressing on the elastomer. That final part of hydraulic pressure on the load cell with zero movement does not take place. Is this intentional?
I used to use a linear throttle and even tried more exponential to limit myself adding too much on corner exits. But...
Lately I have watched a review of motorized pedals from Daniel Morad where he discussed how he likes to setup his throttle pedal and he prefers some sort of logarithmic with steeper start and then more shallow but linear end. I tried it and love it more, because you add some initial jolt that you set up to where it feels good as a starting throttle application and then at the end you have a finer control with feathering it to get the best exits.
It took some getting used to but it is harder to spin out when you go a bit more ham towards the end of the travel, since it is less than true linear. I found out that me setting up the more exponential curve made the first application easier (cheating my poor technique) and when I went to full it added too much at the end and often spun myself out.
Try it guys, might work for you as well!
man, you have link for this video ? i d like to see it too
@@force1_guto_show youtube often dislikes links and deletes them, I gave you all the info you need but the exact video name is "PRO GT DRIVER REVIEWS SIM PEDALS: Simucube ActivePedals"
In the video, he talks about the pedal setup in the software and there he discusses what he prefers. Around minute 5:00. It is just a short bit but it tells you all you need. Helped me. In rFactor2 I sort of got to it by using in game throttle sensitivity more than 100%. Most pedals dont have a way to set it up in the drivers. So a limited way is by adjusting throttle sensitivity or similar.
Hey Will. I need some budget'ish but good pedals. CSL elite v2 or clubsport v3?
Elite V2
can not find it for the V3 fanatec? HELP would love to know it
Does the calibration carry over when you plug your pedals into your PlayStation? (Assuming console compatible pedals like Fanatecs)
It depends on the pedals. Some flash the calibration to an eeprom on the pedals themselves. Others don’t.
what are the best wheel, base and pedals for a price of under £1200?
What about pedal angle? Should the pedals be 90° or close to it? I feel like I’m losing purchase.
It should be noted optimal brake pressure varies depending on the Sim you play. AC and ACC you definitely don't want to calibrate your brakes for 80% but more like 100%. These games give optimal braking and stopping distances by modulating around 100%.
AMS2 and iRacing will give you almost constant lock ups, longer braking distances and flat spotted tyres using this though. They work much better at 80%.
That's odd, so they have bad physics? With ABS dialed back and under high aero that would be very werid.
I don't use my clutch at all. I only use paddles and auto blip in iRacing. Am I doing it all wrong?
How do you calibrate on xbox
The “next step” is looking at the logged data (e.g. MoTeC i2) and looking at how you are breaking and the resulting G-G plot. But this getting into performance engineering.
Yep. We’re working on a video for that now.
Has there been a review by Will on Boosted Media of the brand SimTrec Pro 2 manufactured from billet allow? If not, why not? Please respond to the question
No there hasn’t been. They haven’t reached out and asked :)
@@boostedmedia Thanks for the prompt reply. How about reaching out to them , wouldn’t hurt to enquire. I hear they are pretty awesome pedals and priced right.
Faster and more consistent isn’t the most important thing in sim racing, surely it’s having fun 🤗
Am using the thrustmaster TLCM pedals but can't find the review you guys have done for them
We looked at them as part of our review series on the TSXW from memory. Not sure we went into a lot of detail on the calibration though. But what we have shown here will work fine.
TLCM have the same calibration just without the adjustable curves
Is it the same for console users or I guess it’s different
To calibrate brake pedal i imagine Monza T1 and do it... I guess that's the hardest braking point we can get
That 80%ish braking is very iracing specific though...
Serves me well across the board.
I use a curve for my brake pedal so that I can play around trail braking on that top 70% more easily.
I'm new to simracing, so I'm wondering why set deadzone in top end of throttle? With this method, I think it's a guessing game?! But if I calibrate the throttle all the way to 100%, the pedal itself will tell me where it's 100% mechanical, so there is no guessing. So why put deadzone on throttle? thnx
For the reasons explained in the video you’re commenting on.
@@boostedmedia Ok now i understand why. Thank you for response. Cheers
Yo dude. I only race f1 game codemaster. Should i still do the same calibration because its really important to get 100% brake pressure in this game. Or is there something else i should do?
Im referring to brake calibration steps shown in video
I still run the same calibration for F1 but you could go a little more sensitive if you feel the need. You just don’t want to be locking up every time you reach your threshold point.
@@boostedmediaty man❤
I wish you had included how to set up the pedals within your rig( the distance, angle, ...)
I have a seperate video for that - czcams.com/video/vCWOsAvZUio/video.html
Why is there no review on the Simagic pedal on the channel?
We don’t review Simagic products anymore due to past experiences dealing with them and seeing how they have treated other reviewers.
@@boostedmedia Thanks for the answer.
wow ive been braking all this timewhen i rest my foot... thank will
SWEET! I screw this up all the time!
Good tips!!!👍
Unfortunately, the tips don't help when a talentless driver is behind the wheel... 😂
Not true. A good “base” will help a driver become quicker and more consistent easier than a poor setup. Perhaps a driver is a touch slow because of incorrect settings?!?
@@tano99999 And how do you explain the fact that there are joypad drivers who outperform everyone?
Number one tip. Don’t race in socks
You should inform people that this way of calibration is only for iRacing and RF2, I can see you even have ACC on the screen. This is wrong calibration for ACC. New people might try this in F122 or ACC and might get stuck with bad breaking forever, because the biggest simracing youtube says this is the right way.
That was my first thought having watched this and I made a similar comment. Would be really good for Will to address this.
FIRST
Isn't everyone buying loadcell pedals and make the travel minimal and tension stiff as f××k? 😊😂 and think its perfect?!
Shame you haven't done the tlcm pedals 😢