Thrustmaster | TLCM Pedals - How To Set Up
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- čas přidán 13. 06. 2024
- How to set up and get maximum performance from your Thrustmaster TLCM Pedals. Find out how to quickly. Brake load cell assembly - Calibration tool settings - In game brake meter test - Review of the Thrustmaster TLCM pedals and my 2 cents at the end.
Thrustmaster TLCM Calibration Tool Download: support.thrustmaster.com/en/p...
00:00 Thrustmaster TLCM How to Setup for maximum performance.
2:17 TLCM Pedal Parts
5:05 Spring assembly
9:30 Calibration Tool Setting
14:35 In game brake meter test
Thrustmaster tlcm pedals review. Maximum Performance.
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#Thrustmaster #TlcmPedals #TLCMSetUp - Hry
Hope this helps any one who wants to get back to racing 👍
Hi do you still using same springs and calibration
Give us your review about the pedals after using them for a while
@The Joker Okay! Good idea thanks man 👍
I’ve been watching too many videos about how and what to get for my future sim, should I get some sleep?
@@ppongp3801 The sleep is the component you the most! lol
I couldnt stand the “deadzone spring” so I replaced it with rubber spacer, my control instantly improved and my deadzone in the calibration tool went from 5 to 1.4. Very happy for now. Bought he pedals used last month.
Was looking into these pedals. Thanks for helping me decide to hold off for now. Informative.
Thank you mate! Been sleeping all day great thing to wake up to. 💓
Thaaaaaaaaank yoooooou very much. I was struggling with the dead zones and you video helped me to solve it!
Thanks for the CZcams. Helped heaps with my set up today. Cheers
Thanks mate! I've been waiting to hear that from some one lol You're the first one. Hope that saved you some time and you can get back to enjoying racing more. 👍
iRacer pedals feel good but taking some time to get use to them. Spent all afternoon changing springs and recalibrating. Now practicing but still going into corners carrying to much speed. Will keep practicing. Cheers
@@tipene18 On Ya mate! If you're playing GT Sport I can tell you that braking early and getting on the gas early is seriously rewarded with this game. Hope that helps you.
I bought this pedal set back in April of 2020, I've used them quite a bit for iRacing since buying them. No noticeable degradation yet, hopefully it stays that way. It did develop a creaking noise when braking a few weeks ago but that was easily remedied with some grease.
How's it going 7 months later?
@@christopheroconnor4665 It's still holding up quite well. I've even done some endurance racing with it with no problems
@guiltyspark3823 not sure if you still have the pedals 2 years later but if you do, how did they hold up? I'm moving on from my very unreliable g29 ones to these and would like to know
I do still have them actually, I haven't been racing much as of late but yeah, still working no issues 👍 @@kantz7375
Awesome review
Using the washers made all the difference, thanks!
I was waiting for some one to say that lol Thanks mate!
Thank you very much!Now I can brake slightly better than my old setup.Is not about braking amount is about the feeling,now is much closer to the real thing..I had the black spring first with silver spring and 3 washers in the middle and a red spring over them,it wasn't bad but now I get better feeling of the brake pedal almost like in real car..I tried F12020 and I get 0.3sec better time on second lap already on my favorite track..Before with my setup I've adjusted the cell force to 70 for F12020,ACC and 80 for Automobilista2..Now with your setup I've found the sweetspot to 75 for all of them.Thank you and excuse my poor english,is not my native language.
gracias bro, un suscriptor mas
Thanks mate
informative video
Cheers mate! It's my second info video.
Hello iRacer, I liked the video and analysis. Until the recommedation. Offcourse everyone is free to have an opinion about the pedal set. But I think comparing the T-LCM with the Fanatec base pedal set is not correct. The T-LCM pedals have a 100kg loadcell and hall censors on the Gas and Clutch pedal. This is a good thing, it registers the pedal position based on a magnet. The Fanatec pedals use potentiometers is I'm not mistaken and havce a loadcell for max 90kg. The potentiometers can fill up with dust and won't work as good as they should. Yes, the T-LCM use a plastic case, which is not optimal. But the used the budget they had on all the other components to make it around EURO 200,- So if you're looking for pedals and cannot decide between the Fanatec or T-LCM pedals, I think both have pro's and cons, but general they are both in the same price/quality category
Yeah I agree! I was looking at quality and price. I think the fanatec v3 pedals would of been a better comparison being that at the time they were only 40$ more than the T-LCM pedals. I want people to have stuff that lasts. 👍
@@iRacer Sorry , but the Fanatec pedals prix is hire europe 360Euro = 562Adollar and the thrusmaster pedal 185Euro=289Adollar big differents ,just bought a rig compleet thrusmaster set .greetings
@@marcmelis8584 Aus is always 25 to 33% more for no reason except they think we are dumb. Cars over here are 30% more than US.
Hi i just got this pedal set, ill be using them with my xbox series x and am not a pc user. Do I need to use the calibration software to set them up. I haven't changed any springs they are as they came out the box. Am I good to plug and play?? Thanks
Thanks :-)
So is it better to put the sens higher to controll trail braking better im on 30% right now gtsport but trail braking seems so hard with this sens am i right?
is it possible to connect pedals via usb to ps4 and use fanatec steering wheel? i have a usb hub but i don't have a drive hub. Thank you
I have problem with those pedals because on ps 5 with GT 7 clutch is gas. Any solution?
Is it normal when I have 4 washers installed with red springs, that I have force on the brakes without pressing them in the calibration tool?
No you will have to recalibrate the pedals if you have made changes to the washers or springs.
Gday Mate and thank you for the very informative clip. I'm having the same issue with 0.7 load on the brake(RAW value) without touching it. I'm using the red springs and 1 washer and cannot get it to zero, but I noticed in your video yours is also on 0.7 so is this just how they are? Many thanks
Just got these but I think it's way too hard to fully press the pedals I want something that feel more like a daily street car what are your suggestions?
Try going with the black and white springs if go both springs black. Let me know how u went.
Did you change your thoughts about this Pedals in meantime? I saw in your last few vids you are using this?
What thoughts mate?
@@iRacer that u not can recommend it because of the plastic case and metal bolts. No front, just asking bcs thinking myself of buying it
Yeah they work well my only issue is how long they may last but looks like they will last at least a good year of use after that they are a bit loose. Hope that helps.
Hey! I just bought this pedal and I immediately changed the spring to the red spring. And i noticed the plastic spacer (red marked spacer) the one that has rubber on it has come off, is it ok if its used without the rubber?
Btw I use all of the ring washer..
Yeah it should be fine
@@iRacer r u experiencing the same issue? Like the rubber comes off when i put all of the washers
@@billyps2 I think so. I saw a rubber and I wasn't shore where it came from but I haven't experienced any problems from it.
@@iRacer Thanks for the reply! I was worried so much haha..
Yea same with me and I decided to just get rid off the rubber so the pedal travel can be more consistent
I'm gonna say this I got to use my buddies set and I liked them more then the csl elite with the load cell not even joking this pedal set fit my preference beautifully I'm serious it was perfect I just like the feel more I like the gas travel distance I like the springs used I love the brake I will be getting these pedals I don't neeb a 2k dollar pedal set these are beautiful in price per performance hell I'm even enjoying the t300rs more then my csw not even joking idk why mabye the dampening that fanstec tries tries avoid I actually like with the thrustmaster Iike the weight feel with belt wheels dd drive I get not having enough but I think belts need it imo but yeah and no oscillations it doesn't matter what I do with the csw I get oscillations lol
Stay tuned for the follow up review very soon
@@iRacer awesome can't wait good stuff man thanks
how brake force for F1 help ?
I followed this advice, but now even with the PC app setting it on 100%, I'm still not getting braking power in GT Sport / PS4.
If you add all the washers as in your example, then the "pre-load" spring as you call has no effect on the setup since the spacers are already compressed into the washer stack when you seat the boot into the brake pedal (even with no pressure being applied to the pedal). At 7:15, you make the comment "it virtually doesn't move" and that's because it doesn't (the spacers are already butting into the washers). You could leave the spring off entirely in this set up and it would amount to the same thing.
and here i am with heavy duty die spring on order since the red ones are still too soft for me lol
Yeah the mod is good I got them on order too mate! lol
@@iRacer i had elastomer order come in today much better feel
My current stack is black elastomer, silver spring with 2 washers, red spring on top.
@@owca6666 That's good to know! I forgot to ask you to tell me what its like so thanks mate!
@@iRacer i will be able to post more details, once ive had the chance to do some races, for now i only have it fitted and did a dry test.
@@owca6666 Cheers mate! I subbed your channel.
So, you need to calibrate them even if you’re only using it on PS4?
Yes console and pc.
My calibration tool does not see the pedals, "Please plug a device"! Windows 10 says "The last USB device malfunctioned and Windows doesn’t recognize it." Need help!
Edit: In the device manager it is showed as "Unknown USB device (Device descriptor request failed)". In the Control Panel/Devices and Printers, the pedals are showed as "STM32 BOOTLOADER". When connected through the wheel base it used to work, after this procedure not working anymore. The blue led doesn't turn on.
Try uninstall the program, reinstall and try again. Make sure you download the correct pedal calibration tool program. Let me know how it went and we'll try something else.
@@iRacer What program should I uninstall? The Thrustmaster firmware updater? It doesn't see the pedals, so I can update only the TH8A. T300 RS also works fine...
@@PapaBear6t8 It's at the bottom of the list of thrustmaster programs support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-lcm-pedals-en/ callled: Important notice:RJ12-pedal set - mode detection
@@iRacer Oh, I have that PDF, but it's useless in my case, because after the above procedure it doesn't want work that way either... the blue LED doesn't turn on anymore when the RJ-12 cable is connected both ends! Nonetheless, thank you very much for your time!
guys could you suggest me some settings for the pedal box springs? now i'm trying to use double red spring, both below and above, but i don't know if it's the correct choice.
Red springs are the go but include the washers. Watch the video!
I went with black (top) and red (bottom) to give a little spongy kinda real brake feel ...works for me
Hey mate can you help me out on buying a steering wheel nothing fancy but something simple. I'm 13 and have always had a passion for racing. I used to have a thrust master t80 but it broke I've been trying to save up but can you help me I see you have a bunch of steering wheels and screens. If you could help and get me a Logitech g920
Why is my throttle on the left please tell me i can change this?
Press the mode button until it turns red
@@rwdh1 I tried this and its still on the left so I inverted it in game the the Accelerator goes to the brake pedal
Some reason when braking it doesn't pull up as good as I thought they would, I find the pros pull up better
Yeah I know the pro's are good they use F1 pedal style. If you go directly to: 11:31 on the video I'll show you how to get the brakes sensitive and the dead zone out of the braking. Works the same for all games. Hope that helps you.
@@iRacer doesn't matter if I have strength on 50,60,70,80 etc.. Towards the end of braking takes longer to stop than using the pro pedals
@@iRacer atm using both red springs, I've tried 3-5 washers with strength at 70
@@Potmonkey00 Quite often is because the washers are not in place on the load cell assembly. 5:40
@@Potmonkey00 Use all the washers. If the assembly is okay then it must be the calibration. What game are you playing?
Will this work on ps4
Yeah mate! It works on PS4 and PC but you have to calibrate the pedals on PC. Use the link in the description and watch 9:30 Calibration Tool Setting on this video. Hope that helps you.
You sound like you're from Randwick, mate
The pedals are only $200 in the US all the internal structural pieces are metal just the plastic casing no different than your hood being plastic doesn't affect the frames integrity
Metal shafts in plastic housing don't last long Jack! 18 months she be loose as a goose!, mine are already loose. $200 sounds more the price but exchange rates it's about the same. We pay more for every thing in Australia.
@@iRacer bro you don't seem to like the quality build but how about the performance. All reviews I have read seem very positive for the almost one year these LCMs been on market
@@davisl.gathaara8562 I say in the video the pedals are a great set up for GT Sport with the T-GT and they perform great but they may not last a long for the money. At the time in Australia they were $500 AU and that is expensive. I should of used the v3 pedals as an example at the same price but was more focused on build quality for price. No rose tinted glasses here, not a paid review just honesty. I want my viewers to get what they pay for. Thank you for your comment 👍
@@iRacer much respect to your review once again. Great stuff!
Indeed, I must grudgingly agree that metal in plastic will eventually compromise structural integrity at some point. No argument there.....just hope they improve on that build quality and bump up the price a wee bit to fit in btwn LCM elites and the clubsport v3 but then that wont help them get into many homes which seem to be their motive. Economics rules....
But for what will basically be F1 use for me (which I guess doesn't require all the Iracing, ACC game forces) then I guess the USD 235 cost currently, maybe justified? But ofcourse without budgetary limits I would definitely dive into Fanatec!
@@davisl.gathaara8562 Thanks for understanding I've coped a little bit a flack over being honest lol
They are better than the t3pa set, my rig flexes more than the plastic. The calibration wont have any effect when playing GT sport, as the game calibrates itself.
Metal on plastic. Yes. But for the price ???? It’s a no brained i think. Anywho i got them ill try them out
I'm saying they are great performing pedals but they may not last for a long time. Yes they are good for the money now but at that time they were $500 AU. and V3 pedals were the same price. Thank you for watching my video.
I just bought some fanatec club sport pedals and a performance kit with a load cell brake ( can take 90KG ) I can’t wait till it gets here, IMHO thrustmaster is kinda cheap looking a lot of plastic hardly any metal I mean even the expensive ones look cheap and the pedals are pathetic from what I’ve seen in this video
You're onto it Smokey! You can tell the difference between crap and quality. I'm glad you got the fanatec! So many of my friends took my advice and went the same way you did. On Ya mate! 👍